Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1

For the first installment in what may end up being a 3-part series, covering our top ten or so ‘Groundhog Day’ properties, I thought I’d include a full service hotel in Cape Town, a luxury safari camp in Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and a small, remote tented camp in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.

Ellerman House

In our African travels over the years, our Fish Eagle Safaris team members have visited – and re-visited – a dizzying array of safari camps, lodges, beach resorts, hotels, guest houses and bed & breakfast establishments, in 12 African countries and Madagascar.  Practically without exception, we enjoyed our stay at each of them, from the most basic mobile tented camps out in the bush to the highest of high profile deluxe city hotels.

Ellerman House

Every once in a while, when all or most things go right and we come across a jewel of a property, we add it to our exclusive ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  These are places where we could wake up every morning for the rest of our lives, and be happy and content.  There is no checklist or set of requirements, no rules or regulations to make it onto the list.  No special award either, except for the fortunate visitors who end up spending a few days at one or more of these properties.

Ellerman House

Ellerman House, Cape Town

One of the first properties which we elevated to ‘Groundhog Day’ status was Ellerman House in Cape Town.  It didn’t take long for us to be awed when we first arrived there several years ago, on a warm November day.   It started with the paintings along the way to our room.  Being South African-born, I was stopped dead in my tracks by a striking Transvaal landscape by J H Pierneef, likely the greatest of the old South African masters.  We soon came to realize that Ellerman House is replete with fine South African works of art, both in the main house and the dedicated contemporary art gallery which we were to discover later.

Ellerman House

Ellerman House is also a grand mansion, once the home of shipping magnate John Ellerman and his wife Esther, better known as Lady Ellerman.  Matter of fact, we spent our first night there in a room which used to be Lady Ellerman’s art studio. Exhausted after a long transatlantic journey, all we thought we wanted to do was sleep.  Until we explored the room a bit and saw the view from our private verandah, overlooking Bantry Bay and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.

Ellerman House

Anchored by the lush green garden in front of the hotel, the view transitions to a white sandy beach, foam-topped waves, blue-green ocean and towering cumulus clouds in the background.   We had stepped into a postcard photo.  Simply sitting there in two comfortable lounge chairs with a cold drink in hand,  we experienced what all travelers seek, yet rarely find.  A magical moment when time and place create a memory which will remain vivid in our minds, every time we think about Ellerman House.

Ellerman House

Lady Ellerman may have just dabbled in the fine arts but her one-time art studio is now a masterpiece unto itself, as are all of the Ellerman rooms and the two adjacent private villas.  There’s simply nothing to fault:  drop dead gorgeous views, private verandahs with as much appeal as the rooms themselves, a wine experience on par with the best in the country, the finest of fine dining – for house guests only – and everything underscored by a high level of unobtrusive yet impeccable personal service.  One could write a not-so-slim volume about Ellerman House’s fascinating history, its intersection with Cape Town’s art and music scene and the remarkable socio-economic upliftment work it has done in the local and greater South African community.

Ellerman House

On a recent visit, wanting to explore the area around the hotel, we took the Bantry Steps (there’s 156) from Kloof Road down to Ravine Road and the Florida Steps (another 142) down to  Victoria Road, which turns into Beach Road eventually.  If you run far enough, which we did.  All along the Sea Point promenade, filled with runners and walkers, tourists and locals, all occasionally pausing to take in the amazing views over the Atlantic Ocean.  Families with kids exploring some of the coves, people walking their dogs, hang gliders descending from Lion’s Head, it was an idyllic scene of people having fun and enjoying some leisure time in the bright sunshine.

Legendary Lodge

Ellerman House

The three mile or five kilometer Sea Point Promenade – named after the best known of the areas which it fronts – starts in Granger Bay, less than a kilometer from the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.  From there it goes past the red-and-white-striped lighthouse of Mouille Point and continues to Sea Point itself before curving around to Bantry Bay.  From and back to Ellerman House, inclusive of the 596 steps down from Kloof Street and back up again, this 10 kilometer stretch is very much a ‘rave run’ –  or refreshing walk – all the way.  

On your next trip to Cape Town, consider spending a few nights at Ellerman House and like us, you may feel like waking up there, over and over again.

Sirikoi Safari Lodge, Lewa – Kenya

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well.  The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in north-central Kenya is one of those places.  Lewa is special on many levels.  Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’.   On my most recent visit there, I felt just the same way.  Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’.  Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south.  If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe.  Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats

Other ways in which Lewa is special?  It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa.  Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya.  Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe.  Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.

We use several Lewa properties for our guests including Lewa Safari Camp, Lewa Wilderness and Borana Lodge, in the adjacent (and now connected) Borana Conservancy.  A property which we had used before, but not visited ourselves until fairly recently, is Sirikoi.  Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for!  It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management.  The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality.  While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.

With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion.  There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi.  It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.

Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of the camp.  In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari.  I experienced just that on my last night there.  One by one a family of seven striped kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night.  Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost. 

It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.  The end of a perfect day in Africa.

Jozibanini Camp, Hwange – Zimbabwe

A more recent addition to our Groundhog Day list is Jozibanini, a small tented camp in a remote area of Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.  Jozibanini is everything that Ellerman House is not, except that Jozi’s ‘restaurant’ is also open only to guests.  Not to take that too literally of course, seeing as the restaurant at Jozibanini is a small table and a few chairs, under the stars, in sight of an open fire-place.   Guests at Jozi will search in vain for a temperature-controlled pool, a state-of-the art gym or – perish the thought – a television set.  Jozibanini is so remote that outside communication is limited to a satellite phone.

Instead of 5,000 plus bottles of fine wine in its cellar, Jozi can offer you thousands of stars overhead, every night.  There’s several cool beverages on offer though. Many of us enjoy fine South African vintage wines but let’s face it, a cold beer at the end of a long day on safari with many animals and nobody else around is – priceless.

Jozibanini’s underground “look-up” blind is one-of-a-kind.  On my last visit the noisy shutter release sound on my Nikon camera spooked a large bull elephant at the water hole.  Fortunately we were safe inside the hide but it goes to show just how close you get to the animals.  Be sure to pack a quiet mirrorless camera for your trip!  If you’re feeling adventurous you can head off on a guided mountain bike ride along the elephant paths traversing the dune troughs around Jozibanini. 

And if you’re in need of more star gazing, the beds can be rolled into the deck of the tents for an extraordinary star-bed experience gazing skyward at thousands of stars in the dark Hwange sky. By introducing tourism into this formerly deserted area, the Jozi project has helped protect vast swathes of Hwange and its wildlife, while creating more jobs for guides, camp staff, national parks employees and conservation personnel.  Go to Jozi and the people and thirsty elephants of Hwange will be forever in your debt.  If you can, travel in the cooler, dry months from about April through August.  It can get very hot in Hwange from mid-September through March.

In our blog next week we will focus on a few more of our Groundhog Day properties in the Greater Kruger Park area, being Jabulani Safari, MalaMala Game Reserve and Royal Malewane.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

Our Favorite Hotels in Cape Town

It is almost always a good idea to start or end your Southern Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town. Cape Town, also known as the mother city, is picture-pretty and rivals San Francisco, Rio de Janeiro and Sydney for instagram-worthy photographs from practically anywhere.  Cape Town’s Table Bay and Table Mountain complex are amongst the natural wonders of the world and its stunning wine-growing area and multitude of cultural, food, sport, light adventure and water activities make it a ‘must see’ destination in South Africa.  Except perhaps in the Cape winter, from June through the end of August, when Cape Town can be downright miserable with rain, wind and cold temperatures, sometimes all of them simultaneously.   

Table Mountain as seen from Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens

If you do have Cape Town on your wishlist, keep in mind that from about mid-December through early January it is crowded with up-country and international visitors.  For the holiday season many hotels require a minimum 5-night stay, prices are high, it’s a battle to get in and out of the Waterfront, the traffic is generally a mess and it is tough to make a reservation at many of the best restaurants.  So, quite frankly, the city is best avoided at that time of the year.  Unless, of course,  you’ve been invited to a destination wedding over that time-frame, or it’s a business-related trip, or it’s the only time you can go.

Mt Nelson Hotel Pool

Where to stay in Cape Town?  The choices are near endless, with good to excellent accommodation options spread out all over the city itself and the surrounding suburbs.  

In the full service hotel category our favorites are the Belmond Mt. Nelson (a classic, with a great location in an area with fewer tourists than the waterfront), the Silo (stunning in every way), the Cape Grace (a gem) and the incomparable Ellerman House, likely the best hotel in Africa.  It is on our  ‘groundhog day’ list:  a place where you can wake up every day for the rest of your life and be happy….

Mt Nelson Hotel Deluxe Room

If you prefer a small guest house or boutique hotel with a bit of local color, we have several favorites including Four Rosmead (great for self-drivers), Welgelegen (right off Kloof Street which is a lively area with lots of restaurants, clubs and bars), the Cape Cadogan (also convenient to Kloof Street) and the attractive Glen Avon in Constantia.  Constantia is a leafy, quiet suburb of Cape Town so you’d be away from the congestion of the central business district or the waterfront.  Constantia also has its own wine region with several superb wineries.  In fact it is an excellent base for touring with easy access to places like Kirstenbosch and it is right along the main route to the coast.  

The Silo Rooftop

Yet another attractive option is to get a serviced apartment in the Victoria & Alfred  Waterfront.  It is ‘room only’ but it is of course very easy to make breakfast yourself as the apartments have fully equipped kitchens and can be pre-stocked with food items of your specification.  There are literally dozens of restaurants at the waterfront within a 10-minute walk.  It is an economical and safe choice with strict access control measures.  

Mt Nelson Hotel – Junior Suite

Belmond Mt. Nelson Hotel

On a recent trip to Cape Town I spent four nights at the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town and it was wonderful, as before. I am personally quite fond of ‘old world’ hotels and the Mt. Nelson is definitely that: completed in the early 1900’s and beautifully maintained since then, it has lost none of its charm even though it has all the modern conveniences including Wifi.  Known locally as the ‘Nellie’ or the ‘Pink Lady’ because of its light pink exterior paint, the property has a great setting with views of Table Mountain from the balconies of some of the rooms.  Be sure to try the high tea one afternoon – it’s the best in Southern Africa.

Mt Nelson Hotel Entrance

The ‘Nellie’ also has a large outdoor pool, and a well-equipped spa and exercise facility – somewhat hidden and a short walk from the main area but worth exploring. The hotel is quiet, secluded and well managed; the beautiful grounds have a simply stunning palm-lined entrance. The  Mt. Nelson is a short walk to various museums and places of interest just off the Company Gardens. Breakfasts are excellent with literally dozens of options in addition to the usual full English breakfast offerings.  For winter visitors (often the case for travelers from the USA as that is prime safari time), there’s a ‘stay for 4 nights, pay for 3’ offer which will take the sting out of the not-so-great weather.

The Silo Rooftop Dining

Silo Hotel

Awesome is an overworked word nowadays but it fits the Silo Hotel like a glove.  Over the course of a 2-night stay there some months ago, we had the most incredible time and found it to be like nothing we had ever experienced before.  The Silo is indeed awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word:  from concept to design, location, views, and the impressive Zeitz Museum Of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA).

Legendary Lodge

The Silo Family Suite

We stayed on the 7th floor in a family duplex suite decorated in a luscious lime green and we had spectacular views of the harbor, the V & A Waterfront, Signal Hill and Table Mountain – a perfect location.  We did not want to leave the suite!  On Friday evening, we invited some friends from Cape Town to join us for drinks on the Rooftop and a delicious dinner at The Granary Café. We couldn’t resist ending the evening with champagne and chocolates in our marvellous suite – the Silo simply puts you in a celebratory mood!

Riverwalk

Glen Avon, Constantia

On the same trip, we had a most enjoyable time at Glen Avon,  a small 5-star boutique hotel in the Constantia winelands.   It felt very private and the staff was exceptionally friendly and accommodating.  If you enjoy an ‘away from it all’ location where you can relax by the pool-side, read a book, take in the birdlife and scenic beauty and perhaps go for a walk, this would be the ideal spot.   

The three-course dinner at Glen Avon on our first night there was perfectly done and presented,  rivalled by breakfast the following morning – served outside with a beautiful view over the gardens – which was fantastic.  

Kathy and I went for a run before dinner and ended up on the Grootboskloof Riverwalk – a great opportunity to get an up close and personal feel for the charming neighborhood surrounding the hotel.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats

Cape Cadogan – Guest Breakfast Area

Cape Cadogan & More Quarters

Yet another small boutique hotel in Cape Town to consider, is the Cape Cadogan.  We’ve stayed at the property a couple of times and really liked what we saw and experienced.  Primarily, we recommend it because of location, being right off Kloof street which is choc-a-bloc with local restaurants, clubs, boutiques and small stores.

Cape Cadogan – Classic Bedroom Interior

At the V & A Waterfront most other visitors you will see are also from out of town, while the Kloof Street neighborhood is frequented by lots of Capetonians.  Also, you’d be walking distance from several interesting sights including the Company Gardens where several major museums are located, the Houses of Parliament, St. George’s Cathedral and GreenMarket Square.

More Quarters – Luxury Room

We experienced first class hospitality at the Cape Cadogan’s sister property, More Quarters, on a subsequent visit.  The rooms are well planned and spacious.  Breakfast was delicious. The management and staff were wonderful and it shares the same location advantage as the Cape Cadogan.  We returned home with a complimentary jar of Jelly Tots (everybody’s favorite)! So all round a winner:  great accommodation, food and courteous staff.

Ellerman House

Ellerman House

So many accolades have been directed at Ellerman House, that it leaves one searching for something new or insightful to say about this immaculate property.  What the hotel says about itself is true:   you never want to leave! On our most recent visit we stayed in the Ellerman Suite and certainly enjoyed the privacy and the most incredible view of Bantry Bay.  We toured the superb art gallery which takes visitors on a journey that explores the huge social and cultural shift in South Africa from the mid-nineteenth century to present day.  We checked out the wine cellar – one of the best in Cape Town – and enjoyed a walk-through of the two exquisite villas.  As before, our meals were out of this world – we still fondly recall a particularly delicious scallop dish.

Ellerman House

Tackling the Bantry steps on two separate occasions was worth the effort to make it down to the Sea Point Promenade for a couple of our best ever scenic runs.  Memories of these rave runs will remain vibrant in our minds until we can make it back to Ellerman House, to tackle those steps one more time, and to again experience the singular joys of spending more time in this finest of establishments.

The Silo Superior Suite

In next week’s blog, we take a closer look at a very special African mammal, the African Painted Dog.  We’ll include  some of our favorite photographs and highlight a few of the best places in Africa where these rare, endangered predators can be found.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris