Destinations

A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

14th August 2020

A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

In late May last year, just after noon on what was a Tuesday, I stepped into a seven seater Mahindra Airvan at Saile Airstrip on the edge of the Linyanti floodplain in Northern Botswana. A click of a seatbelt and a short safety briefing later, it was time to go. The young pilot pushed the power throttle to its fully forward position, released the brakes and in less than a minute we went hurtling into the blue Botswana sky.

For me, bush flying will never get old. With the passage of time, I have come to enjoy and appreciate it more and more, since my first ‘white-knuckle’ flight in a Cessna 206 – also in Botswana – in 1990. Over the last almost 30 years the pilots have become younger and more diverse in terms of gender and nationality, new types of aircraft have arrived on the scene, and operation and safety standards have improved. The fun and excitement never went away.

Bush flying has always been different. This is ‘real’ flying with a sense of immediacy, noise, speed and a tinge of danger. All lacking from commercial flying. Even so, if you have yet to strap yourself into the seat of a single prop aircraft in which you can make eye contact with the pilot as he or she looks back right before takeoff, there is no need to be nervous. These young persons have acquired excellent flying skills, are totally safety conscious and have to be exceptionally skilled to have snagged a flying job in Botswana. It’s a plum position.

Just over 30 minutes later we were in Kasane. And 20 minutes later I was in a boat crossing the Chobe river into Zambia. The landing in Zambia is a bit jarring, having to negotiate one’s way along a somewhat rickety gangplank, amid industrial debris and the grimy, smelly environment of a working dockside. Thankfully the immigration process was quick and painless, taken care of by my Wilderness Safaris driver Angel. I paid $50 for a univisa, which allows unlimited entries into Zimbabwe and Zambia for several months.

TONGABEZI LODGE, ZAMBIA

By 2:30 p.m. I arrived at Tongabezi where the affable and efficient general manager Mark showed me around and helped me with a quick check in, almost immediately afterwards followed by a delightful lunch overlooking the Zambezi. Which was flowing strongly.

About an hour or so later – my last mode of transport for the day being a small aluminum skiff which deposited me on a small island in the middle of the Zambezi – I had made it to my final destination of the day, Sindabezi. Here, I would spend the night. Sindabezi Island is remote, private and the ideal spot for someone open to new adventures. After a peaceful night’s sleep, I woke up not to sunlight, but to a moonbeam. I had been sleeping within sight and sound of one of Africa‘s mightiest rivers, right in front and below me. A nearby set of rapids stirring up the most soothing white noise of all. Sleeping virtually outside with just a few light curtains between you and the great African outdoors. There’s more. You’re attended to personally by several friendly and efficient staff members, enjoying delicious food from a varied and creative menu with lots of local options, and choosing from a huge list of included and optional activities. Being severely time limited, I opted for an afternoon sundowner cruise which was relaxing and fun, ending at a drinks stop where I met many of the guests staying at Tongabezi Lodge. It was a most agreeable conclusion to a busy day.

One final plus point about Sindabezi Island: good fast Wi-Fi on an island which runs on solar power. All the lodges out there with feeble excuses about sub-par Wi-Fi service. Take note. It can be done.

The next morning I woke up to an unusual sight. A bank of fog had formed over the surface of the Zambezi resulting in a spectacular if somewhat spooky sunrise, the sun itself and its light reflected, refracted and obscured by the fog. The photographs hardly do it justice but I took a few nonetheless.

After a super breakfast and catching up on a few emails I went back to Tongabezi Lodge for a site inspection. I was really pleased to see that both the houses and cottages at Tongabezi were fantastic and I would highly recommend the property for a Victoria Falls stay.

Tongabezi has the most magnificent trees and gardens including an extensive vegetable and herb garden, both featuring heavily in the planning and execution of meals and drinks.

As previously alluded to, the list of included and optional activities is exhaustive, ranging from sundowner cruises to village visits to micro light flights over the falls. Tongabezi was then in the final stages of an extensive upgrade, and their large bar and lounge had been completed, with a new reception landing area. With a new office already in place Tongabezi was looking great. By all means go there.

THORNTREE LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

By late morning I was dropped off at African Bush Camps’ Thorntree Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, inside the Zambezi National Park. This property has been setting a new high standard for deluxe boutique accommodation in the fully inclusive lodge category, with 10 beautifully designed villas, each with a large deck and private plunge pool, looking out over the Zambezi. The rooms have every feature one could wish for: air conditioning, Wi-Fi, striking glass and screens, and adequate lighting. Each villa has a mini bar, tea and coffee making facilities, indoor and outdoor showers and an indoor tub, a large bathroom with separate enclosed toilet, a personal safe and mosquito netting.

The main area is an impressive – mostly glass enclosed – structure and there’s also a spa and gym on the large grounds. The lodge offers a full range of activities. The standard of hospitality which I experienced at Thorntree was exceptionally high. My day started with a peaceful and rather quiet Zimbabwe river cruise with the Thorntree activities manager – a pleasant change of pace from the hectic pace of the previous day.

En route to Zimbabwe that afternoon, I made an hour-long stop to observe the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side. I had done this outing approximately a year ago so I knew what to expect, with the Zambezi being in flood stage. Again it was an awesome sight to behold. While the view of the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side is not the best when the river is low – from September to about December or so – it is quite satisfactory and even spectacular when the Zambezi is running at flood or near flood stage.

In fact the closest one can get to the actual flow of the water – to experience an effect much like that of seeing Niagara Falls from the Canadian side – is a spot close to the entrance to the falls reserve, on the Zambia side. Powerful and mesmerizing. You inadvertently stop to think about the survival chances of someone going down there in a barrel. Only to conclude that the prospect of the person surviving to tell the tale is a big fat zero.

Crossing the wet and slippery Devil’s footpath bridge across a side gorge, you reach some more good view points over the eastern portion of the falls, observing the Angels’ armchair and the famous Devil’s pool, popular attractions for breathtakingly close approaches to the abyss. Only doable when the water in the Zambezi is low.

BATONKA GUEST LODGE

Having been driven across the Zambezi and into Zimbabwe, my first stop was the Batonka Lodge, an all-around delightful property with 16 well-equipped rooms, less than a mile away from the falls, in the residential portion of Victoria Falls town.

The rooms are spacious, effectively air-conditioned, there is Wi-Fi and even television with 10 channels. The meals were excellent. I overheard a guest complimenting the chef on a main course of pork medallions served with a caper sauce. I concurred. They were expertly prepared and deftly served and not unreasonably pricey by Victoria Falls standards.

Batonka Lodge has a nice pool in a sunny spot, there are both indoor and outdoor dining options as well as some comfortable inside and outside lounge areas, and a cozy bar.

Particularly for someone who already has a couple of scheduled Vic Falls activities planned – and who does not “have“ to be within walking distance from the falls – it is a good and affordable option with no high season premium.

GORGES LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

After lunch that day, and a road transfer of about 35 minutes, I checked into one of the excellent tented rooms at Little Gorges, a five room tented addition to the well-established Gorges Lodge.

Gorges and Little Gorges are ideal for guests who prefer to be away from the helicopter noise and hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls town, and are keen to experience a more peaceful environment with great black eagle viewing, as well as experiencing an authentic local village and school experience. Included in the rate is a daily round-trip transfer to Victoria Falls town for a guided tour of the falls or some other Victoria Falls activity.

My afternoon black eagle activity did not have the desired outcome which was a good photo of a black eagle in flight. As is often the case with wildlife, it was circumstantial. A male black eagle did in fact fly right over us but I had too much lens and there were some trees in the way. Photography issues. I did manage to get a half decent pic of a black eagle sitting in a tree close to one of the tented rooms. Plus I had a great chat with co manager Chris, enjoyed the superb sundowners snacks and watched as the sun slowly set over Batoka gorge. A worthwhile experience unto itself.

Dinner at Gorges was quite enjoyable. As before it was a tasty home style meal with a grilled steak, grilled potato and two veg plus an excellent malva pudding for dessert.

Tent number one at Little Gorges is right on the edge of the Batoka gorge with the sound of the Zambezi rushing over some rapids, creating a soothing backdrop, making it a perfectly splendid place to fall asleep. Which I promptly did after dinner. There is nothing like a solid eight hours in likely some of the cleanest air in Africa to recharge the batteries.

Breakfast at Gorges Lodge could have benefited from a little work in the way of presentation and ‘wow’ factor; and perhaps a French press instead of drip brewed coffee. Even so, the cooked breakfast was perfectly fine – no issues with that.

VICTORIA FALLS RIVER LODGE

Rather earlier than was necessary – which caused me to forgo an activity at Gorges – I was transferred back to Victoria Falls and from there by boat from the Shearwater jetty for a pleasant 10 minute or so river trip to the Victoria Falls River Lodge.

Although brief, my stay at the Victoria Falls River Lodge was pleasant. I particularly liked the main lodge dining room area with great views over the Zambezi. The room was spacious and well equipped with an outdoor shower, indoor bathtub and plenty of space. I always appreciate adequate lighting. The food – both lunch and dinner – was a notch above the usual lodge fare.

My afternoon activity was a Bushtracks jet-boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi, advertised as getting to within 800 meters of the falls. While I enjoyed the activity a lot, I don’t think we got closer than 1600 meter to the falls. The biggest advantage was the fact that closer to the falls, in shallower water, there were no other boats around to spoil the serenity of the area. It was only us and one other jet-boat – also from Bushtracks – in the area. We spotted quite a bit of wildlife including hippo and elephant. Plus points for Victoria Falls River Lodge were the proximity to the Zambezi, the quality of the hospitality and guiding, and also – somewhat surprisingly to me – the game-viewing in the Zambezi National Park within which the lodge is located. We had some excellent views of elephants, giraffes, zebras, waterbuck and a couple other species. Game-viewing in the park improves as the dry season progresses.

Next stop: Hwange National Park. To be featured in our blog post next Friday.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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A Visit to South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

28th July 2020

A Visit to South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

On what was my second trip to South Africa’s eastern Cape Province in two years, I learnt more about the area and what makes it special. There are several good reasons to consider the Eastern Cape for a safari trip:

It has lots of animals and birds and more diversity than anywhere else in South Africa. Readily seen animals include elephants, buffaloes, rhinos, lions, giraffes, zebras, kudus, impala and even cheetah, springbok, eland and gemsbok in some reserves like Shamwari.
The eastern Cape is one of the best places in South Africa to see both black and white rhinos.
The scenery is spectacular, with sometimes amazing views of hills, valleys and ravines. The vegetation ranges from Karoo scrubland to dense montane forest, Cape fynbos, dense thickets, and areas of open savannah and grasslands.
The entire area is malaria-free which makes it ideal for families with children, pregnant women and for anybody who does not want to take antimalarial drugs.
The eastern Cape reserves are easy to get to, just over an hour from either Johannesburg or Cape Town, by air. Also within drivable distance from Cape Town, along the Garden Route.
Compared with destinations like Botswana and the private reserves along the Kruger National Park, the Eastern Cape reserves offer considerably better value for money, particularly in the cooler winter months from May through August and September.
The area is quite unlike anything you’d see in Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia or the ‘bushveld’ region of South Africa, notably the Kruger Park. It is mostly undulating, often with patches of thick bush which provide cover for animals such as leopard and black rhino.

RIVERBEND LODGE

My first stop on the Eastern Cape educational trip was Riverbend Lodge which we had used several times in the past – always with good results – for the Addo Elephant Park area. Riverbend Lodge is just outside the main Addo National Park, but the lodge has direct access – a few kilometers away – to its own private area of the park. The accommodation, dining (fantastic!) and general hospitality and guiding at Riverbend were impeccable. With its special focus on the needs of families with young children, Riverbend is an ideal family safari spot. Be sure to spend no less than three nights here as some of the mammals like the rhinos can be tricky to see, because of the thick vegetation. In fact this is true of most of the eastern Cape reserves. If you spend as many as 4 nights in a camp you will see ‘everything’ and have a fun and relaxing time in the process.

The water hole close to the lodge can be surprisingly good and while I did not happen to see any rhino there during my stay, it does happen. More often than not, there are elephants coming around to drink, and we also saw some zebras and warthogs take their turn.

KARIEGA

Kariega’s Settlers Lodge was all-round one of the best lodges I had seen in a long time, with beautifully designed, huge rooms and an unusually impactful main lodge building with glass, stone and canvas beautifully melded.

An added bonus here is the option of doing some boat trips along the Sunday’s River, a nice change of pace with time to relax and take in the natural beauty of the area. Kariega’s Homestead Lodge would be perfect for a family or friends group of up to 12 or so, with 2 vehicles and guides and a staff catering to the needs of young and old.

River Lodge is yet another good option at Kariega with the same mix of activities as at Settlers. It has a bit more of a ‘traditional safari’ or classic African safari lodge feel. A nice value add here is that guests who spend 3 nights or more at Kariega River Lodge have the option to take an included boat trip (open aluminum skiff with sun canopy) of about 40 minutes or so, to the Sunday’s River mouth on the Indian Ocean.

The guiding at Kariega Settlers was great and importantly, they do not take more than 6 or 7 persons in a vehicle, meaning nobody ends up in a middle seat.

Overall I thought that the game-viewing at Kariega was very good; highlights were the abundance of giraffes, wide variety of antelopes, plenty of zebra, a good lion sighting and some great views of elephants.

As elsewhere in the Eastern Cape, it would be advisable to spend no less than 3 or 4 nights in the area. There is a lot of thick bush and to have a decent shot at seeing rarities like black rhinos, it is imperative to give yourself enough time and to do several game drives. So stay 4 nights and include the beach excursion to the mouth of the Sundays River.

SHAMWARI

My last two nights in the Eastern Cape were spent at Shamwari, a private game reserve which recently celebrated its 25th year as a pioneer of wildlife management and eco-tourism in the Greater Addo area.

Shamwari’s current range of properties include Bayethe Tented Camp, Sarili Private Lodge (ideal for family travel), Lobengula Lodge and its flagship classic lodge – Long Lee Manor, extensively rebuilt in 2019. Two other properties – Riverdene and Eagle’s Crag – have also recently been rebuilt/renovated.

Clearly Shamwari is making a very substantial investment in its future, re-asserting its position as the pre-eminent photo safari property in the Eastern Cape.

Here’s what surprised me about Shamwari: the abundance of wildlife (easily seen), the simply amazing natural beauty of the area and its diversity.

I was fortunate to have Morne Hamlyn as my guide in Shamwari, operating out of the compact classic Lobengula Lodge. More about the guiding later. It was a welcome change of pace to be in a room just steps away from a pool, and not much further away from the dining room. No long hikes to dinner, no armed escorts, just wait for the sounds of drums and off you go…

Breakfast at Lobengula was excellent; I tried a local take on Eggs Benedict one morning and it absolutely hit the spot; an omelette the second day was equally good. Dinner results were mixed. The meat for the charcoal grill (braai) on my first night there was presented in advance on a platter – you pick your portion and cut – and it was then prepared to order. I selected a couple of lamb chops and asked for them to be done medium-rare. I got them back well done and tough. The side dishes were great, as was the dessert. In fact the dessert (malva pudding) was excellent.

The following night I decided to take a small gamble and ordered lamb again – this time a rack of lamb. It paid off handsomely. The chops were tender and succulent with that typical South African Dorper sheep taste: a nice herbaceous undertone but quite subtle, and not at all mutton-like. Dessert was again splendid.

The ‘lamb chop experience’ at Lobengula underscored my experience of many years on safari. Almost never have I found the meat prepared on a ‘bush dinner’ or outside grill/barbecue – a ‘braai’ as the South African refers to it – to be anywhere close as good as similar cuts prepared in a proper kitchen setting. Just too many unknowns and variables with grilling outside, particularly when the chefs are cooking for a whole camp-full of people. Visibility is bad in the dark, the charcoal temperature is difficult to regulate, it is hard to get the timing right, and so on. Boerewors sausage and chicken (other than breast portions) are generally the best choices for bush dinners.

Throughout my stay at Lobengula I could not have received better service or friendlier attention than I did. Irreproachable in every respect.

Back to guiding: Morne had guided me some years previously in the Timbavati at Kings Camp, where he worked as the head guide at the time. Right now, Morne is at the apex of his guiding career and any visitor to Shamwari should thank their lucky stars to be in his vehicle.

Morne has all the attributes of a good guide: personable, highly knowledgeable, friendly and enthusiastic, and he wants you to have fun and experience everything the area has to offer. He will also make every attempt to find a ‘special’ animal or bird for you. In my case it was black rhino, the only large mammal I had not seen previously on this Southern Africa trip. Given the bushy habitat preferred by these rare animals, I knew it was a tall order but I need not have been concerned. We found a striking black rhino female with a young calf, probably not even 40 minutes into our afternoon drive at Shamwari. Initially motionless behind a bush with just the tip of her long horn giving away her location, she was in no hurry to relocate despite our proximity. She then walked slowly to the next thicket, calf in tow, turned sideways to give us a look and then she disappeared. Just like any animal can, in the eastern Cape thickets.

Over the course of two days at Shamwari I must have seen as many as 15 different species ranging from elephants (lots!) to Cape buffalo, lions, the aforementioned black and several groups of white rhinos, multiple giraffes, impala, kudu, Burchell’s Zebra, black wildebeest, springbok, waterbuck, gemsbok, warthog and hippo.

Morne and I also checked out a few other properties at Shamwari including the beautiful Long Lee Manor (where we had lunch) Sarili (where we saw lions from the deck), and Bayethe Tented Camp which I think would be ideal for many north American visitors, with well-equipped and spacious tented rooms.

In closing, a few words about fences. Shamwari and in fact all of the Eastern Cape reserves operate in a mixed-use setting, where fences are an unavoidable reality and necessity. Shamwari is huge and the presence of a fence was never an issue or hindrance on my particular visit. At worst it is a reminder that wildlife thrive in areas which are rich in resources such as water and palatable vegetation. Which means land that can usually be occupied by people as well. So when you do see a fence in the eastern Cape, think survival and co-habitation – without a few strategically placed fences it would be near impossible to safely contain and conserve wildlife species in this area.

Up next: a return trip to Namibia including our first visit to Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

23rd July 2020

Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

The Timbavati Game Reserve, a massive privately operated game sanctuary adjacent to the west of the central portion of Kruger Park, is sometimes overshadowed by its better known neighbor to the south, the Sabi Sand Reserve.

In reality, there’s not much to choose between the two reserves, in terms of the overall safari experience. In short, they are both excellent. In some ways the Timbavati in fact outshines its more popular rival to the south. It is more remote, the vehicle density is less, and the prices are on average a good bit less than the Sabi Sand, making Timbavati the best value option of the private reserves. The guiding is good to excellent in both reserves. Guiding proficiency is usually more closely associated with a specific lodge than with a reserve.

All in all, the Timbavati is about as ‘bushveld’ as it gets, with a typical mix of acacia thickets, patches of riverine bush, open savannah and large swathes of mature woodland. Its average altitude above sea level is barely 500 meters, which makes for balmy, dry winter months from about May through August and September, which is also the ideal time to visit. Like the Sabi Sands, the Timbavati is also completely open to the Kruger Park on its eastern boundary, allowing for free and unfettered movement of animals from the national park.

KAMBAKU RIVER SANDS

On a return visit to the Timbavati last May, I spent several days at four different camps, and re-discovered the appeal of this attractive slice of African wilderness. My first stop was Kambaku River Sands. Kambaku River Sands is a well-managed property in a game-rich area of the Timbavati. Right from the word go I sensed that they had their act together and everything I experienced over the course of my short stay validated the first impression. Starting with the 10 luxury suites. They are huge and super comfortable, with a large mosquito net enclosed bed, air-conditioning, a sitting area with chairs and a table, ample lighting, tea and coffee making facilities and a spacious separate bathroom with indoor and outdoor shower and good-sized ball and claw bath.

The food offerings were excellent throughout, from lunch on arrival, dinner and brunch the next morning. Nicely prepared and imaginatively presented, and extremely tasty. Clearly a lot of thought goes into menu planning and food & beverage service. I did not have much time to spend at the expansive and beautifully wood-crafted bar, but it looked most inviting. As a unit the lounge and dining room complex is attractive and functional with lots of space and spots where couples and small groups can get together before or after meals, or around the outdoor pool. Elephants come to drink from the pool from time to time, and there is a separate waterhole within sight of the deck as well.

In just two game drives out of Kambaku I saw a ton of stuff, including a fantastic sighting of a young female leopard in a tree. We also saw some lions at night, there were lots of elephants, and all the usual plains game species including zebra, impala, wildebeest, giraffe and kudu. The bush was still quite thick (early May) so clearly game-viewing will be even better as the dry season advances.

The following morning’s game drives out of Kambaku produced an elephant sighting which was just as spectacular as the ‘leopard in a tree’ of the previous day. Being early May, there was not a great abundance of animals. The area is densely wooded and after the rains game viewing can be challenging. However when you do come up on something good, there are few, if any other vehicles around.

A spectacular elephant sighting on this drive had just two vehicles witnessing it. Which is almost too bad because it was a ‘once in 20 years’ type of sighting: an amazing spectacle with about 20 young elephant bulls testing their strength in a quasi-serious jousting contest, half-submerged in a lake. Right in front of us. In near perfect light. If you visit Africa maybe one time only and experienced only this, you’d understand why a photo safari is such a satisfying experience on so many levels.

There’s the sheer visual appeal of it, naturally. A hankering to see big mammals alive and kicking in their natural habitat is just skin-deep in most people, I suspect.

There’s the sense of discovery and of seeing new things, all while completely escaping the daily grind of our overscheduled, overly busy lives.

There is an underlying sense of apprehension and a tinge of danger, in the proximity of particularly the big cats but also elephants. Return visitors will recall that very first time their guide drove them right up to a pride of lions. You know it is safe and you are told that the big cats don’t pay attention to people sitting still in the vehicle. But what if…

The sense of anticipation and the surprise element. Don’t we all thrive on being pleasantly surprised? On safari it happens often and sometimes when you least expect it. Just like the following day’s events would reinforce, a game drive isn’t over until it is over. Anything can happen and often does, sometimes in the last few minutes of a drive.

Of course, you also get to stay in some wonderful places, hosted by people whose only mission is to keep you happy and content.

KINGS CAMP

Returning to Kings Camp after an absence of several years, it was reassuring not to have to work too hard to remember the first time. Other than a few small changes (a new spa area, new decking, more outdoor spaces) it had remained essentially the same. A timeless classic where all your African safari expectations are met and exceeded. The near palatial rooms with mosquito net enclosed king bed, an inviting clawfoot bathtub, inside and outside shower and plunge pool (in the honeymoon suites), will wow just about anybody.

Both meals I enjoyed at Kings Camp were exemplary: a delicious breakfast on my day of departure and a multi-course boma dinner the night before. The array of menu items was quite impressive and enticing, ranging from lots of fresh veggies to a deconstructed mixed salad, pork belly, roast chicken, braised oxtail stew, and a stir fry station. With several other side dishes and finished off with a lovely malva pudding for dessert.

The two game drives from Kings Camp with my guide Remember were fun and memorable. Remember is a caring, careful and highly experienced guide who knows the area intimately and takes his time to impart some interesting facts and observations about the various animals, birds, plants, and trees seen.

The afternoon game drive started out being quite slow but that changed – right towards the end of the drive – with another ‘leopard in a tree’ encounter. Add to the mix some scavenging hyenas as well as an interloper young male leopard, and things become fascinating in a flash.

We watched spellbound as the younger male got wind of the smell of a carcass in the tree, from which he eventually displaced the older and much heavier male. In the gathering darkness I managed to capture a few arresting images of the older male exiting the tree, his demeanour and body language reflecting caution and maybe even apprehension. He was in no mood for a fight in which he stood to lose everything.

The next morning we enjoyed a similarly entertaining and meaningful episode, watching a coalition of two male lions re-connecting early that morning. Greeting each other like brothers with big grins and some head rubbing, they settled down for a siesta while we went off on a successful search for a female leopard. Great stuff!

NGALA TENTED CAMP

By midday in early May, I was enjoying an impeccable lunch at Ngala Tented Camp, a deluxe property on the border of Kruger National Park. With nine elegant tented rooms – operated by the redoubtable AndBeyond company – Ngala Tented Camp is one of very few properties which we’ve booked for our clients in the past, sight unseen. It’s always turned out well and now that we’ve been there ourselves, I daresay we will be recommending this place for a lot more guests.

Ngala Tented Camp is intriguing and pleasing visually and artistically, with a blend of old and new, wood and stone, glass and canvas, creating a one-of-a-kind look and feel which is hard to pin down, but easy to like and appreciate.

The Ngala Tented Camp rooms likewise hit all the right notes. Not huge but with plenty of space, an exceedingly comfortable bed, a separate bathroom with a big tub (and lots of water with good pressure), a separate enclosed toilet and a particularly nice outdoor shower enclosed in a rock/stone wall.

The room is air conditioned, quiet and private with a range of excellent camp snacks (nuts and fudge), wine, beer and several types of spirits and mixers. There’s even a recipe for Ngala Tented Camp gin fizz.

It soon became evident that Ngala Tented Camp is located in a superb game-viewing area. Over the space of two game drives, afternoon and morning, we managed to find and observe the so-called Big Five mammals without much drama at all. Notably, three of the five we saw no more than one kilometer or so outside the camp. In many African safari camps you have to drive for 30 or 40 minutes or more, just to get to where the game is. Not so at Ngala Tented Camp. The game is right there.

Our guide Scott was enthusiastic, had a great sense of humor and managed the most difficult of guiding feats (first timers and veteran safari goers on the same drive) with the greatest of aplomb. Clearly Scott and tracker Ernest are a formidable team, providing their guests with lots of wow moments.

A nice change of pace moment was when Scott got us all out of the vehicle to walk through the bush, making a close approach to a giraffe. Which turned out to be the most relaxed giraffe ever!

TANDA TULA CAMP

My last Timbavati camp on this trip was the well-known and perennially popular and well-established Tanda Tula Camp. Located in the heart of the Timbavati along the Nlharalumi River, Tanda Tula has gained its excellent reputation by doing everything right, consistently. Good accommodation, great food, pleasing camp ambiance and superb guiding make it a great choice for first timers and safari veterans alike.

On a couple of game drives with guide Luke and master tracker Jack, I think I gained just as much from the experience as the two young couples from San Francisco for whom it was their first two game drives ever. Yes, we saw the Big Five but it ended up being much more than that, with Luke imparting some witty and well-informed bits of information and background without being pedantic or repetitive. Good, fresh information, not the hackneyed ‘Mcdonalds of the bush’ drivel. For example, I never knew just how short the ‘reign’ of a dominant male Impala was. Turns out that he has perhaps as few as eight days as the dominant male in charge of his harem of females, before he is supplanted by a challenger. Guides like Luke take delight in debunking old bush myths and pseudo facts. All the more reason to have a well qualified guide leading you. Likewise Jack, who is one of only 25 master trackers working in this field in South Africa.

Back at the lodge chef Ryan prepared a couple of the best meals I had enjoyed on the trip to date. A lunch with braised barbecued pork ribs and a delightful dinner with lamb loin chops or braised guinea fowl. The side of sweet potato croquettes and the kingklip (fish) starter were equally tasty and beautifully presented. Camp manager Antony and his staff were friendly and caring and I think all the guests enjoyed the good humor and general sense of well-being which suffused the place. It is not stuffy or serious, just good fun and a great time. Plus the WiFi works well.

JOHANNESBURG INTERLUDE

I had not spent a night in downtown Johannesburg in a very long time. Having lived in the city in a previous life, I am no stranger to it but this was a new experience. Home for the night was a small boutique hotel – the Hallmark House – chic and ultra modern, located right on the edge of Maboneng, with a mix of accommodation, galleries, retail shops, restaurants and clubs.

Wandering around the place in the late afternoon, I was very much a stranger in his own country, but it was nonetheless interesting to observe from a very different perspective. I was relieved to find an informal dinner spot, a small hole-in-the-wall with every table taken, which is always a good sign. The food was simple but exactly what I wanted, and at least for twenty minutes or so, it re-connected me with a place and time long gone. A traditional ensemble of pap (a rustic version of polenta) with a tomato and onion sauce, a side of spinach and a ‘boerewors’ sausage, South Africa’s celebrated traditional version of bratwurst, characterized by the addition of coriander in the spice mix. Tasted like home.

The following morning I had time to capture a few photographs of the Maboneng precinct, particularly some of its ubiquitous examples of street art and graffiti. The graffiti were colorful, brash and ephemeral, with many illustrations already starting to peel away and decay. One hopes that this does not happen to Maboneng itself. That the promise, the sense of renewal and rebirth visible in so much of it, is not dashed by the harsh realities of commerce and circumstances beyond the control of the locals. It remains to be seen.

If you’re keen to experience an authentic modern African city environment then definitely yes, spend a couple of nights at the Hallmark House or the nearby CityLodge on the edge of Newtown. Johannesburg has a vibrant arts and music scene – which I hope to explore on my next visit. In the way of a true big city with all of its energy, creativity and fascinating people, there are few better than Egoli, South Africa’s city of gold. What makes Johannesburg doubly interesting is the process of renewal that is taking place. Blight and decay are making place for hope and aspiration, innovation and ingenuity. Maboneng being the most visible but hardly the only example. Newtown and Braamfontein have undergone a similar process of renewal and rejuvenation and are now worthwhile stops on your exploration of Joeys.

APARTHEID MUSEUM

The young French girl – part of a tour group of some thirty or so students visiting the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg last May – probably didn’t know what to make of the older man she saw crying, just outside the museum exit. The man was leaning against a planter, his head down, tears streaming down his face, clearly emotionally devastated by what he had just seen and experienced. What was he crying about, she might have thought. If she had stopped and asked, the man would have told her that he was crying for his country of birth, for lives ruined, families destroyed, and hopes dashed. He was crying because of regret and guilt, with the realization that the failed system of apartheid was a colossal waste of the human spirit, of lives, time, resources and energy. The French girl saw sadness and pain on his face; what she didn’t see was the unresolved inner conflict, the scars left by living through the worst of the apartheid era. Even though the man was lucky not to be one of the oppressed, the double-edged sword of racism wounded him just as deeply. All South Africans were diminished by the system, they just did not all realize it at the time. Being confronted so vividly and strikingly by the harsh reality of the grave injustice done to millions of people, a lot of old, suppressed feelings and memories were brought to the surface. Until then, the man thought that he had made his peace with all of this. Clearly he was mistaken.

I have always had something else or something better and more pressing to do in Johannesburg than visiting the Apartheid Museum. Until this time. I now regret not doing it sooner. For those of us who lived through it all, it is a bitter pill to swallow. For visitors from abroad, it will be no less impactful and just as shocking to come eye to eye with man’s inhumanity to man. The Apartheid Museum is important and powerful. It is also substantial and altogether loaded with information, displays, facts, maps, movies, names, history, interpretation and memorabilia. At a minimum, it takes a solid two hours to make your way around it, and I could see someone easily spending three or maybe even four hours there, if you wanted to get into the details of all the exhibits. Don’t rush it.

In part 2 of this South Africa trip report, I make my way to the malaria-free Eastern Cape region. Coming soon.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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JOHANNESBURG SIGHTSEEING

16th July 2020

JOHANNESBURG SIGHTSEEING

South Africa’s City of Gold – Johannesburg – is widely referred to as Joburg (not ‘Joberg’ mind you) or sometimes Joeys and even Jozi for short. You can even use ‘Egoli’ which means ‘place of gold’. For those in the know, the city has become more than simply an overnight stop between flights. Johannesburg has been described as “the new cool capital of the Southern Hemisphere”. Done the right way, it is a destination which merits a minimum two night stay.

Most visitors end up staying in Sandton, Rosebank, somewhere in the northern suburbs, or close to the airport. That’s ok, as long as you don’t confuse business centers like Sandton and Rosebank – with their business hotels and shopping malls – with the city itself. Downtown Joburg is where it all happens: the street life, the architecture, art installations, food & drinks, graffiti, the rough edges which make it alive and interesting. Here are a few of our top recommendations for inclusion in a Joburg tour:

Liliesleaf farm, Rivonia. Closely associated with the struggle against apartheid; this is where the top leadership of Umkonto we Sizwe (ANC) was arrested in 1963. Fascinating story well told with a variety of media & exhibits. Be sure to put this high on your list of places to see in Joburg.

Apartheid Museum: Travel back in time and discover the story of South Africa’s black citizens who lived under an apartheid government for more than 40 years. You’ll also learn about the country’s subsequent path to democracy. A recent (June 2018) visit underscored just how powerful and moving an experience this is. Don’t try to rush it; it takes 2 hours minimum and ideally 3 to even 4 hours to do justice to this wide-ranging and well-done museum.

Constitution Hill, Braamfontein. Tour the site of the notorious Old Fort Prison Complex, where political activists such as Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi were once held. Now home to the Constitutional Court, a museum and art gallery. Definitely worthwhile.

Cradle of Humankind: This UNESCO World Heritage Site features some of the oldest early-human fossils ever found. Explore the limestone caves where many of the fossils were discovered notably Sterkfontein where the ancient fossil of Mrs. Ples was found in 1947.

I visited Sterkfontein myself for the first time in May 2017 and the underground walk into Sterkfontein Cave was a revelation and definitely worth the trip out there. The local guide succeeded admirably in re-creating the atmosphere of what the place must have been like about 2-million years or so ago, when Mrs Ples fell into a hole in the ground. The nearby museum/visitor’s center – known as Maropeng – is fine for children but does not hold much appeal otherwise. A quick walk-through is sufficient. For me, the most interesting feature was the time-scale walkway which visually illustrates the passage of time from the present back to the ‘Big Bang’ which took place about 4 billion years or so ago.

Origins Centre at Witwatersrand University, Braamfontein. The Origins Centre is a museum dedicated to exploring and celebrating the history of modern humankind, telling the story of the emergence of human beings and humanity in southern Africa. Checking out the interactive multi-media presentation focusing on the San people is by far the best use of your time here; the adjacent ‘Fossil Museum’ is more of a static exhibit but also interesting.

Maboneng Precinct – a vibrant neighborhood in what was once a ‘no go’ area of Joburg. Maboneng, meaning “Place of Light,” is a renovated warehouse district with a chic, creative atmosphere that attracts many artists. The area features independent retail shops, galleries, restaurants and entertainment venues. Maboneng stretches over several city blocks and is best experienced with a guide who knows the area. There is a food market on Sundays; several good options for coffee, lunch and dinner throughout the week. On a recent visit I spent a night at a hotel in the area (Hallmark House). I was able to make good use of the time there, exploring (with a professional guide), several colorful graffiti sites and other places of interest in Maboneng and surroundings.

Downtown Johannesburg: Joburg’s downtown – here referred to as the Central Business District or CBD – has a fascinating mixture of architecture including Victorian, art deco and contemporary. Always a lively street scene. The area is safely explored on the City Sightseeing bus which has an audio guide. It is also possible to do a walking tour along Main Street. Nearby Hillbrow and Berea are best visited in the company of a local guide. It is a melting pot of African cultures as can clearly be seen from the presence of large numbers of Nigerians, Zimbabweans, Congolese and Somalians and smaller groups of other African nationals who stream to Johannesburg in search of a better life.

Soweto – Short for “South Western Townships,” Soweto is Johannesburg’s must-see city-within-the-city, and includes 21 different townships. Discover the lively mix of local restaurants and fascinating heritage sites including Hector Pieterson Museum, Regina Mundi Church, Mandela House, Vilakazi Street & Credo Mutwa Cultural Village. Finally, a township tour of Soweto is a fascinating cultural experience, incorporating several wonderful museums, fun shebeens (bars) and historic sites.

Getting around: We recommend using a specialist private local guide to accompany you on your exploration of Joburg; the guide will make it that much easier and more safe, to experience the sights and sounds of Joburg as well as its culture, architecture and archaeology.

For the independent traveler and more daring spirits, there are several other transport options. The Gautrain service operates direct from Oliver Tambo Airport and connects Sandton to Braamfontein in eight minutes. The City Sightseeing hop-on hop-off red bus goes from Braamfontein to the Central Business District, Newtown and around Braamfontein, and its red shuttles link to Soweto. The Mabogo shuttle connects to Maboneng, which can also be reached in just minutes with Uber.

Uber is easy to use and cheap in Johannesburg; however please note that there has been some friction between the city’s dominant taxi associations/drivers and Uber drivers. This can lead to violence so be sure to ask your hotel concierge for guidance and advice. Pickup and drop-off at the hotel will likely be as safe as using Uber anywhere else.

Just like elsewhere in Africa, driving on a public road is dangerous in South Africa. The country has more than double the number of road fatalities (based on the number of vehicles on the road) than the United States. So if you are going to venture out on the roads, the safest option is with a professional touring company, with a qualified & experienced local driver-guide behind the wheel. We assist all our clients with making their touring arrangements, depending on their particular interests and the time at their disposal.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2: LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

5th July 2020

KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2:
LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of those places. Lewa is special on many levels. Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’. On my most recent visit last June, I felt just the same way. Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’. Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south. If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe. Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void. We cannot all have a farm in Africa like Karen Blixen once did, but we can visit one – and there’s none better than Lewa.

Other ways in which Lewa is special? It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa. Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya. Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s Zebra, Beisa Oryx and Reticulated Giraffe. Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s Zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.

The Reticulated Giraffe I consider to be the ‘oil painting’ of giraffes, compared with the somewhat washed out ‘watercolor’ version seen elsewhere – the Plains or Masai Giraffe. The Reticulated Giraffe is almost a dark orange with vividly demarcated lines between the color blocks. Never to be forgotten, once seen.

Likewise the Grevy’s Zebra. Its finely striped black and white skin pattern – without the shadow effect visible on the Burchell’s Zebra – and its white belly make it quite a handsome equine. Its looks are marred only somewhat by the ridiculously large, mule-like ears.

Beisa Oryx are amazing animals and while their status is also ‘endangered’, they are fairly common in Lewa. Strikingly beautiful with both males and females sporting long, thin ringed horns. They are quite unmistakable when seen with mostly blue-grey bodies, offset by a white underside and distinctive black stripes along the side, the neck and on the face.

Finally, Lewa is special because of its remarkable achievements over the years in the field of wildlife conservation (notably rhinos and Grevy’s Zebra), and its pioneering work in community-centric conservation. Lewa has invested heavily in both the protection of endangered species and development of its neighbouring communities to create a future where both people and wildlife can flourish.

TUSK MARATHON – LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Late in the morning after my overnight stay in Nairobi, I was on a flight from Wilson Airport to the beautiful and very successful Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Having been established in 1995, Lewa/Borana is arguably Kenya’s premier example of a wildlife sanctuary where wildlife conservation, community welfare, cattle farming and hosting guests from 9 tourism properties are successfully integrated and managed by a permanent staff.

For the next 3 nights my accommodation was a rustic tented camp – Maridadi – erected close to the Lewa Headquarters, for the annual running of the Tusk Half and Full Marathon.

Late on the first afternoon, we did a short 3 km ‘warm up’ run and afterwards enjoyed sundowners on a beautiful hill. A few of us went on a late afternoon game drive, which turned out to be surprisingly good. In practically no time at all, we ticked off most of the Lewa specials like Grevy’s Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Beisa Oryx and Somali Ostrich. As well as Buffalo, Eland, and Burchell’s Zebra.

On the second day we visited several projects supported by the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, through donations from charities such as the Tusk Foundation. Among others, we visited a school and the Lewa Clinic. The Lewa Education Program works to provide access to quality education that improves students’ economic opportunities, in the hope that it creates a new generation of environmental stewards. I was impressed by the degree to which electronics had been incorporated into the classroom we visited. The electronic ‘blackboard’ and the presence of so many electronic tablets would be the envy of many a school district anywhere in the world.

On the Saturday, some 1,500 runners lined up for the start of the 20th annual Tusk Lewa Marathon and Half Marathon, one of Lewa’s major fundraising events. The race is well organized and is a taxing, yet fun event. It helps to be well prepared and at least somewhat acclimated to the mile-high altitude. Add to that the heat – it was nearly 80 Fahrenheit at the start – the hills (plenty of them) and the uneven footing along rough trails, and all in all it makes for a super-tough race.

LEWA WILDERNESS

Late in the morning after the run, I was off to Lewa Wilderness on the north-eastern edge of the conservancy. Lewa Wilderness, which is owned and operated by the Craig family, is a jewel of a lodge with gorgeous rooms, a stunningly beautiful setting in a lush garden, views over the valley below, and simply first-class all-round hospitality.

My room – #7 – had an expansive view, tons of space, a double bed with mosquito netting, adequate lighting (but difficult to find the right on and off switches), a shower and separate toilet, and a mini-bar with soft drinks, beer and ice. Simply a splendid place to be on safari, as one of the English guests remarked over dinner later.

The food was excellent: I was introduced to all the other guests already in camp over a buffet lunch (curried chicken and curried vegetable dishes) with quiche, green salad, fresh bread and more. The meal was served family style.

Dinner was roast beef with veggies, a potato dish and dessert, all delicious and perfectly prepared. Most dietary needs can be accommodated.

I experienced a couple of game drives from Lewa Wilderness and much to my surprise saw a cheetah on both outings. One rather skittish young male (a newcomer to the area) and another older, much more relaxed male which was stretched out on a fallen tree stump, enjoying the morning sunlight. Another sighting of note was a few gerenuk antelope, which are more abundant in arid areas to the north, like Samburu.

BORANA LODGE

The following couple of nights I stayed at Borana Lodge, a 9-roomed property set in the stunningly beautiful foothills of Mt. Kenya, in the Borana Conservancy, adjacent to the west of Lewa. In 2014 the fence between the two conservancies came down, which opened up even more of a corridor for wildlife – notably elephant – for movement between Samburu in the north and Mt. Kenya in the south. Over the last 30 years or so, elephants have impacted Lewa Wildlife Conservancy significantly, mostly by destroying huge numbers of acacia and other trees, effectively turning large tracts of mixed woodland into savanna grassland.

Opening up adjacent areas like Borana and in future hopefully the nearby Il Nguesi area, will help to alleviate the pressure on the habitat and reverse this habitat-changing effect. Given time, trees like the yellow barked acacia and whistling thorn acacia will bounce back and forests will naturally re-emerge. But only if the saplings are not constantly being hammered by the elephants.

Already – during my visit – the number of elephants in the Borana Conservancy appear to be increasing relative to Lewa. Borana being much more heavily wooded will definitely relieve the pressure on Lewa.

The Borana Conservancy is higher, hillier and greener than Lewa. It also has even fewer cars and people around so if solitude, splendid views and montane scenery is your thing, Borana is your spot. While I did see a black rhino in Lewa (after several days there), I saw several in Borana, starting with my very first game drive there. My knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide Peter soon had a female and juvenile pair of black rhinos in sight and with some deft maneuvering, I got several good shots of them, without displacing or unnecessarily alarming them.

My experience at Borana Lodge for the two nights there was most enjoyable and fun, with a mix of game drives, sundowners in scenic spots, a fun bush dinner, and spending time over lunch and breakfast with the owner, Michael Dyer.

The lodge itself is perched on a slope of with beautiful views over blue-grey hills and verdant valleys. Out of Africa, no doubt. Plus the original ‘Pride Rock’ from the Lion King movie is just around the corner! My room – #3 – was spacious with all the amenities including a bath, shower, fireplace, and two outdoor relaxation areas.

The room interior and soft finishings are due for a major ‘freshening up’: some paint, new tiles in the bathroom, new window drapes, a new color scheme – there are quite a few things which can be done to give the room a fresh look.

It is a minor point of criticism though. The overall experience at Borana was most enjoyable with great food, friendly staff, management and expert guiding.

It appears that Borana’s cattle management and rotation scheme is quite successful at keeping the vegetation vibrant and full of life. There are practically no areas of moribund vegetation, but this may have had something to do with the abundant recent rainfall, at the time I was there.

LEWA SAFARI CAMP

The penultimate stop of my mega familiarization trip was the popular and highly rated Lewa Safari Camp, also operated by Elewana, located inside the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. We do and will continue to use Lewa Safari Camp on future Kenya itineraries for many of our clients. This visit made it clear to me why the camp works so well. A lot of it has to do with the managing couple Sacha and Tamlyn. During my all too brief overnight and one day there, Sacha devoted a lot of time to spend with me over lunch and dinner, talking about the area and what it has to offer to guests. With such enthusiasm and energy as demonstrated by Sacha, it is clear to see why Lewa Safari Camp is so popular with guests. My tented room #3 was spotlessly clean and well organized from lighting (easy on off switches), to having the best charging outlet of any camp on the trip, including no less than 4 USB charging points. Lewa Safari Camp has an attractive pool with a view over the valley, and well-marked pathways.

Exercise note: It is possible to jog inside the camp perimeter on gravel pathways, along a loop totaling about 1 kilometer in distance.

En route to my final destination, I did a site inspection at Kifaru, Elewana’s luxury 5-roomed lodge. Compact and intimate, with camp manager Andrew giving me a concise yet thorough overview of the camp. Kifaru has a great location on top of a hill, with large and well-appointed rooms, a beautiful central area and dining room. Room #5 appears to be the choice spot to be.

SIRIKOI LODGE

I had long looked forward to visiting Sirikoi, my planned 2017 visit having been derailed by Hurricane Harvey. Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for! It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management. The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality. While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.

With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion. There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi. It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.

Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of camp. In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari. I experienced just that on my last night there. One by one a family of seven Striped Kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night. Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost.

It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.

I had the most fascinating conversation with the co-owner Sue Roberts over sundowners, finding out just how the Sirikoi property came to be in their possession. Acquiring Sirikoi ended up being a pivotal piece in making Lewa Wildlife Conservancy the vibrant and successful model of co-operative conservation that it is. Land-owners, local government, and most importantly the community, all working together to achieve shared objectives.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 1: THE MASAI MARA

1st July 2020

KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 1:
THE MASAI MARA

Since I first started traveling to Kenya in the 1990’s, I have grown increasingly fond of this beautiful and incredibly diverse country and its friendly, easy-going people. With every return visit, my previous perceptions about Kenya as a safari destination have been re-validated, notably that it is an ideal destination for a first African safari. No doubt about that. Kenya has lots of animals which are easy to see, it has remarkable diversity in terms of habitats, wildlife, scenery and activities along with a well-functioning tourism infrastructure.

Culturally, Kenya is rich and diverse, it has excellent accommodation options in each area, great guiding and – like I said – friendly people who are genuinely interested in your well-being and happiness. So learn a few Swahili phrases, get your E-visa online, and get ready for a fantastic experience! Of course, if you’ve already been, you know most of this. But do keep on reading as there’s lots of information here about some places you might not have been to yet, like the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, or the Olare Motorogi Conservancy in the Masai Mara.

On my most recent trip, last June, I arrived at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport on South African Airways after an on-time, uneventful flight. Getting a visa was a cinch – it literally took less than 10 minutes. Then a gremlin appeared in the way of a long and disorganized, scrum-like line to get one’s luggage scanned in an industrial-sized luggage scanner. Of which there really should be more than one, clearly. To compound matters, traffic congestion caused a lengthy delay getting out of the airport and on to the road to downtown.

Even so, I remained in a good mood, just happy to be back in Kenya. Here’s a tip for African travel in general and specific to Nairobi and Kenya: be prepared for a little bit of chaos mixed in with smiles from people who are genuinely pleased that you have decided to make your way there.

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL

The security check on arrival at the Nairobi Serena Hotel was thorough, but not brusque. I never felt rushed or intimidated. A little bit of courtesy goes a long way. Reception at the hotel was smooth and professional, as was my in-room briefing. The room was luxuriously appointed, with the usual amenities including tea and coffee-making facilities, multi-channel TV, air conditioning, and thoughtfully designed charging facilities with a phone-ready cable for your iphone, and enough USB and universal plugs capable of accepting a US type plug without an adaptor.

I tried both the Asian fusion and traditional restaurants at the hotel for dinner and breakfast respectively, and they were both good. Serena has a well-deserved reputation for their breakfast spread and the Nairobi Serena Hotel was no exception.

LOLDIA HOUSE, LAKE NAIVASHA

From this point on and for the duration of my trip to the Masai Mara, I was accompanied by Zachary Methu, an affable, extremely capable and hugely knowledgeable Origins Safaris guide. What a difference a good guide makes! It took about 3 hours by road to get to Lake Naivasha, where I would spend a couple of nights at Loldia House. I had been looking forward to a return visit to this lovely old home which was built by Italian prisoners-of-war during WWII. Just like the last time, I spent a peaceful night in Room #1. Being inside the main house, it is convenient, large, and has beautiful views over the garden and the lake. The bathroom has been upgraded.

I enjoyed some bird photography and a delicious lunch, and went for a 5K run later in the afternoon in the cultivated (farm) portion of the estate. That evening, we enjoyed a delightful dinner – table d’hote style – with 8 other guests and the manager. The 3-course, plated meal was expertly prepared and served. Breakfast the next morning was equally good, particularly the pancakes.

Loldia is the perfect place to spend one’s first couple of nights in Kenya, prior to going on safari. It’s a great introduction to Kenya’s wildlife with a good variety of game to be seen including buffalo, hippo, impala, gazelles and giraffe. On night drives hyenas, owls, and bush pigs may be seen.

Included activities at Loldia are an afternoon game drive with sundowner drinks, a boat cruise on Lake Naivasha early in the morning and a night game drive after dinner. Beyond those, Loldia offers a host of optional activities (at additional cost), such as guided trips to Lake Nakuru, Crescent Island, Hell’s Gate, Crater Lake, Lake Ol Odien, Eburru Forest, Aberdare National Park, Lake Elementaita, and Lake Bogoria. There’s also golf available at the nearby Great Rift Valley Lodge, horse-riding and a tour of the nearby rose farm.

Room 1 at Loldia is in the main house; rooms 2, 3 and 4 (all upgraded) are in the garden. Room 6 and 7 (thatched roofs) are also in the garden. Room 8 and 9 are in the Top Cottage and room 10 is in the Top Cottage loft and has a separate/outside bathroom.

MARA BUSHTOPS, MASAI MARA

Fom Naivasha it was a solid 5 hour 30 minutes drive to Mara Bushtops, situated in a game-rich conservancy just to the north of the Masai Mara National Park. The impressive tented rooms are solidly in the deluxe category with beautiful wrap around views over the surrounding bush. There was an indoor and outdoor shower, Wi-Fi and an outdoor jacuzzi which can be filled in advance. The room has a buzzer to summon your personal butler. The room lighting wasn’t quite up to my ‘bright, clear, and easy to operate’ expectations.

A two-hour afternoon game drive on the Isaaten Conservancy illustrated once again why Kenya is such a good choice for a first – or any – safari. Without too much driving at all we notched up good views of elephants (lots of them!), giraffes all over the place, many zebras, scattered groups of wildebeest, impala, Thompson’s gazelle, topi, eland, Kirk’s dik-dik, vervet monkeys, warthogs and bat-eared foxes. Guests who spend three nights or more at Mara Bushtops will usually spend a half or full day inside the Masai Mara National Park; the lodge is only about 30 minutes from the Sekenani gate. Dinner was first class in every way in what was essentially a full-blown restaurant with multiple starters, main courses and dessert options. No set hours: you dine when you want to.

Exercise note: Mara Bushtops caters for health enthusiasts more than most other camps. They have a large pool with adjacent heated jacuzzi, a sauna, a small gym with weights and a treadmill. The Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops has a wide range of beauty treatments and massage and rejuvenation treatment options, several of which cater for couples.

ASILIA NABOISHO CAMP, NABOISHO CONSERVANCY

It was a relatively short drive today to the Naboisho Conservancy where I spent the night at Asilia’s Naboisho camp. Naboisho is a well organized camp with friendly and attentive management and staff, superior guiding by Dickson Kaleku, and abundant wildlife. I also did a site inspection at nearby Mara Encounter and liked what I saw, particularly the adventurous walk through a small, dense forest on the way into camp. I can recommend both of these camps and the Naboisho area without any reservation. The game viewing was as good as I’ve experienced anywhere – ever – with huge numbers of wildebeest around. It felt like the migration season, even though we knew it was not. We saw many lions and enjoyed an exceptionally good cheetah sighting with three sub-adult cubs. Plus elephants, eland, topi, gazelles, impala, zebra, giraffe and more.

Exercise note: Not an ideal spot for exercise, but you can go on an extended walk of a few hours duration with an armed professional guide.

MARA PLAINS CAMP, OLARE MOTOROGI CONSERVANCY

The next day, it was on to Mara Plains Camp in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. This conservancy is a model of how local landowners and conservation-minded safari operators can work together for a greater goal, being the preservation of Kenya’s wildlife heritage for generations to come. In this huge area – which otherwise would have been dotted with homesteads and overrun with cattle, sheep and goats – wildlife is thriving and the local communities benefit with employment and cash income. Mara Plains Camp is a Relais & Chateaux property and it shows on many levels from the impeccable quality of the food and beverage offerings to the attentive and competent management and staff. I was wowed from beginning to end. The massive rooms are dramatically set on the edge of a seasonal creek.

For the few days that you may spend at Mara Plains you will be in a cocoon of unadulterated luxury. While guests no doubt appreciate the luxury touches and the property’s high level of sophistication, the lasting impression is of a team of people with a clearly defined mission to be a force for good in both conservation and community. The wildlife experience at Mara Plains on this trip was just as good as it was on a previous visit to the area, a few years ago. At that time I recall seeing as many as seven different mammal species all at the same time.

It would not be unreasonable to expect to see three big cat species – leopard, lion and cheetah – on a 3 night stay at Mara Plains; in fact we saw all three on one game drive, on this trip! Most memorably, I photographed a cheetah crossing a small road within the conservancy, while a local resident on a motorbike (here known as a boda-boda) paused for a few minutes, to give the cheetah the space to do so without pressure. Only in Kenya! We also saw various prides of lions, some with cubs of varying ages, and a host of other mammals and birds. My Mara Plains hosts Rich and Lorna – as well as Kyra – went out of their way to make me feel at home.

Exercise note: Clearly not a good place to go jogging, but each room has a yoga mat and a jump rope.

ASILIA REKERO CAMP, MASAI MARA

My next stop was Rekero – another Asilia property – located in an ideal spot on the Talek River with a great view down-river, inside the Masai Mara National Park. The huge deck is a perfect place to discover the coming and going of numerous birds including the rather stunning blue fly catcher which I tried to photograph with some success. Rekero is so well hidden in the thick riverine forest along the Talek River that it remains completely hidden until you walk into camp, from the parking area. There are nine tented rooms, two of which are family rooms; the tents are quite spacious with a separate en suite bathroom with plenty of hot water, a separate vestibuli with a day-bed and adequate lighting. I slept soundly by the sound of water rushing over the rocks in the Talek River. The food at Rekero was excellent and we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with a mix of South Africans, Texans and Kenyans and a couple from San Francisco.

We enjoyed yet another superb day of game-viewing in the Masai Mara spotting a leopard with an impala kill in a tree, four different groups of lions, two prides with cubs (from literally 1.5 weeks to several months old) some handsome full-maned male lions, powerful females, sub adults and more.

INTREPIDS CAMP, MASAI MARA

Intrepids camp, my accommodation for the following day, is quite large with 32 tents but with the rooms strategically spread out along the edge of the Talek River in thick vegetation, the camp does not have a ‘crowded’ feel.

The rooms are quite smart and nicely equipped with decent lighting, mosquito nets, a separate shower and toilet with door, a deluxe wash basin and ample mirrors. There is Wi-Fi everywhere in the camp. Each room has a small desk and ample storage and clothes hanging space. The bathroom area and particularly the shower of my room number 14 was starting to look a bit tired and is definitely in need of refurbishment.

Hot water – provided by wood burning boilers – is available from 5 to 9 a.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Lunch was served buffet-style with multiple choices and options including a wide variety of vegetarian items. For dinner meals are plated with a substantial number of options for starters, main course and even for dessert.

What makes Intrepids a good choice though is the location. It is ideally located in the heart of the Masai Mara right where the action is during the migration season. From here your guide can take you towards the Musiara area if needs be, or to the main or Serena crossing over the Mara River, or even further afield to the southern section of the Mara in search of whatever is out there, including of course potential wildebeest crossings.

Exercise note: Mara Intrepids has an extensive trail/walkway winding through the camp and past the vehicle maintenance area, so this is a property where you can plan on getting a few miles under the belt.

MARA EXPLORER CAMP, MASAI MARA

The next day my journey would take me on to Mara Explorer camp, Intrepids’ smaller and more luxurious sister tented camp. Mara Explorer has just 10 quite elegant tented rooms, most with good views over the Talek River which was flowing quite strongly on the day. The rooms are spacious with a separate indoor shower (shower head needed replacement), a toilet with a door and an outside bath with a view. Hot water available from 5 – 9 a.m. and from 5 – 9 p.m.

The rooms are on the edge of the Talek River and some of them, like mine (#4), are very close to a sizable number of hippos hanging out in a hippo pool in a bend of the river. So if you really like hippos and don’t mind them waking you up at around 5 a.m. when they go back in the water then this is just the room for you. Our game drive today produced a sighting of an acclaimed coalition of four cheetahs, as well as some good views of lions and buffaloes. The day was rounded off nicely with a surprise bush dinner.

MARA NGENCHE CAMP, MASAI MARA

It was a shortish drive this day to Mara Ngenche, sister camp to Samburu’s Elephant Bedroom camp. The property is located in a prime spot at the confluence of the Talek and Mara Rivers with the rooms having views over either of the river beds. My room was large with a comfortable king bed, decent lighting, indoor shower and bath and outside shower. It also had a private plunge pool, lounge chairs and hammock. The staff was friendly and attentive and obliged with a special local meal with items such as ugali and sukuma wiki.

The dining room, lounge and bar tents were likewise quite well done; food was superb and varied with several choices of starters, mains and desserts. Game drives in the area were productive and we had a good morning with several sightings of leopards, among others.

ELEPHANT PEPPER CAMP, MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY

It was a slightly longer drive today, leaving the Masai Mara National Park at Musiara gate into Mara North Conservancy. I was initially somewhat put off by the presence of a large village not far from the gate, with several herds of cattle around. However, by the time we got to our next stop, Elephant Pepper Camp, everything had changed. It turned out to be a lovely and clearly well-run camp with energetic and friendly management, who made me feel welcome right away. I liked everything I saw about Elephant Pepper from the camp layout, the nice rooms with good lighting, to the fun meal-times. We arrived in the middle of a leopard sighting and that pretty much set the tone for the remainder of my stay. It turned out that the game viewing at Elephant Pepper – particularly for the big cats – was terrific. Zachary and I had some of the best views of the entire trip of cheetahs and lions on what was to be our last proper game drive in the Mara. A short spell of rain did nothing to dampen our spirits – in fact it set up an opportunity to get a photo of a wet lion shaking its mane.

KAREN BLIXEN COTTAGES – NAIROBI

It took just over 5 hours to drive back from Elephant Pepper to the suburb of Karen on the west side of Nairobi. We encountered heavy traffic in spots with lots of 16-wheeler trucks, the road being the main artery from the port of Mombasa to the East African interior. I was happy to have someone as experienced and patient as Zachary behind the steering wheel. This evening, I spent the night at Karen Blixen Coffee Garden & Cottages. Located in one of the oldest formal gardens in Kenya (with lots of great birds around), the hotel is convenient to the Karen Blixen Museum, Wilson Airport, Sheldrick elephant orphanage and Nairobi National Park. In contrast to the historic main building, the individual cottage suites are quite modern and spacious with high-beam ceilings, fireplaces, verandahs, a bath, shower, and TV. I enjoyed lunch and dinner at the adjacent Tamarind restaurant and could not fault the excellent ostrich burger and grilled tuna fillet, or the swift and friendly service. I took a cab to the nearby Karen Mall for some shopping at the Kikoy store and the well-stocked aisles of Carrefour grocery store (candy stop!). The next morning I would be on my way to Lewa in the northern part of Kenya.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

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