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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3

4th December 2020

Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3


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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3

Traveling through Africa, no matter where you find yourself, you will soon learn that birds are to be found in even the most inhospitable of habitats, such as the Namib Desert.  Birds like the cryptically colored, ground-dwelling Dune Lark and Gray’s Lark, which somehow manage to exist in the gravel plains of the Namib, where surface temperatures may exceed 45C (113F) during the heat of the day. Just like humans, birds are supremely adaptable and have evolved, over millennia, to be able to thrive under what may appear to be impossible conditions.


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What is even more remarkable to me is how one bird can adapt to look and act just like another completely unrelated bird, found in a different part of the world, as a result of an evolutionary pattern called convergence.  When I first saw a Western Meadowlark here in Texas, for example, I looked at my birding companion and said, ‘Nice, we’ve got those in South Africa too.  A Yellowthroated Longclaw, right?”  His face took on a perplexed look. “A what?  Longclaw?  No man, that is an Eastern Meadowlark.”  This happens when two separate species evolve similarly, because they find themselves in similar environments.


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Despite occurring in different parts of the world, with some 8,000 miles separating them, meadowlarks and longclaws ended up being practically identical, superficially.   The exact same yellow and black plumage pattern, general shape and size and even behavior, with a characteric low flight and trilling wings.  The birds ended up being peas in a pod, despite not having any common ancestors for millions of years, because their plumage and behavior best enable them to blend in, survive and thrive in a grassland environment.

The opposite evolutionary pattern – divergence – when one species separates into two and then develops individually, is perhaps better known and can be easily seen in nature as well.  Such as in Madagascar.


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If you’ve ever wondered what it must have felt like to be Darwin, walking around the Galapagos completing the Natural Selection puzzle, Madagascar will appeal to you.  Spend a few days there and you cannot fail but see Darwin’s theory of evolution come alive in front of your very eyes.  Look at a white-headed vanga and then – maybe just minutes later – observe a sickle-billed vanga fly by.  Practically the identical bird except for a marked difference in bill adaptation.  The one with a stout conical bill, the other one similar in general appearance and shape but with a massive decurved bill.  Clearly adapted to probe crevices and holes for spiders and crickets and other insects. Evolution in its purest form.  It is estimated that the sickle-billed vanga split from the white-headed vanga somewhat more than a million years ago.


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If you do end up heading to Madagascar someday – and you’re interested in birds – do a little bit of homework.  The island doesn’t have an inordinately high number of species, but every second species you see, will be endemic to the country.  There are 22 vanga species, for starters.  Each one markedly different from another.   In fact, Madagascar’s vangas easily beat Darwin’s Galapagos finches for diversity.  The same is true of the striking coua family; there are nine of these mostly terrestrial birds of the cuckoo family in Madagascar.  Every single one found only there.


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So when you do see the amazing variety and diversity of birds all over Africa – and perhaps Madagascar –  you are looking at the culmination of millions of years of subtle, imperceptible change and adaptation.  From the tiniest skulking Firefinch to the most fierce-looking Martial Eagle, every one of them looks and acts the way it does, as a result of the long evolutionary path they have been on since the last major extinction event, some 66 million years ago.  Most dinosaurs went extinct. Mostly birds remained.  Since then, birds have evolved in many ways, enabling them to survive in a multitude of habitats.


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According to an article in Current Biology (May 2019),  birds – dominated by seed-eaters – fared extremely well in resettling the vacated ecological niches, in the wake of the extinction event.  In fact, they radiated to create a level of diversity unrivalled among terrestrial vertebrates. Scientists disagree on the exact reasons why birds have done so well, but clearly their relatively  small size, the fact they can eat many different foods and their ability to fly, all played a part.


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Having emerged from the last mass extinction much better than most species, birds are now facing several new man-made threats to their survival.  Primary among these are loss of habitat and a precipitous decrease in the abundance of insects, worldwide.  Climate change and the resultant global warming are also negatively impacting bird populations.   Nobody knows which of them will be the survivors this time.

For now at least, there are more than 11,000 bird species in the world, of which about 2,300 species occur in Africa. More than 1,400 birds are endemic to Africa – found only there.  Be sure to be on the lookout for them and if you are contemplating a first trip to Africa, make sure that you end up with a guide who is knowledgeable about birds.  It literally opens up a whole new world to visitors of Africa’s wild places.


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Bee-eaters and Rollers

Colorful and lively, Bee-eaters and rollers are among the most spectacular birds to be seen anywhere in Africa.   Some of them like the Little Bee-eater, the Lilacbreasted Roller and the Carmine Bee-eater are celebrities of the world of birds, the object of attention whenever they are around, never far from glinting lenses and clattering shutters.


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The Lilacbreasted Roller easily takes the cake for being the most dazzling of the true bushveld birds.  They are attention hogs like few other birds, almost always perched on a twig or branch close to the road or trail, often not more than about 8 to 10 feet or so above the ground.  Almost every visitor to sub-Saharan Africa will be able to get a half-decent photograph of a Lilac-breasted Roller.  Perched.  In flight?  Now that’s the real challenge!  In hundreds of attempts over the years, I have maybe a half dozen or so good LBR shots, showing them to their best advantage.


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The trick is anticipating the moment at which they decide to take flight.  Or better yet, the split second before that moment.  Even when you guess correctly and have the camera clattering away the moment the bird spreads its wings to take off, all manner of things still go wrong.  The #1 bad outcome?  The roller dives down and away.  Try again.  Here’s a hint:  set your camera on the Manual setting at f-8 with a shutter speed of 1,000th of a second or faster (when the light is good), with the ISO on automatic.  Autofocus enabled.


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Hoopoes, barbets and woodpeckers

The distinctive African Hoopoe is quite common but not always easily observed, due to its habit of flitting from one spot to the next in a seemingly haphazard, unpredictable manner, looking and acting just like a giant butterfly in the process.  Observe it closely the next time you see one.  When undisturbed, its characteristic crest is closed up, but when it is excited or agitated, the crest creates a little mini-fan on top of the Hoopoe’s head.  These beautiful birds are common garden birds over much of Africa and are highly revered, to the point of being legally protected in many areas.

Africa is not particularly well endowed with woodpecker species, but in most woodland habitats you’re likely to come across a couple of species.  Often heard before being seen, their characteristic tapping noise is a dead giveaway, as is their loud, piercing calls.  Many African woodpeckers are basically golden brown above and paler below, with a bewildering variety of facial stripes, eyebrow lines and red, spotted or black caps, and breast patterns.  It usually takes more than just one good view in a pair of binoculars, to positively identify them.  The smallest woodpecker in Africa is the cardinal woodpecker, which is common everywhere except really arid areas.

In South Africa, the largest and most unusual woodpecker is the ground woodpecker. This mostly olive-grey bird with a pinkish belly and rump, is endemic to South Africa and is – the clue is in the name – not associated with trees.  If you find yourself in rolling treeless terrain in the Southwestern Cape or higher lying grassland areas to the north and east, you may just stumble upon one of these extraordinary birds.


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Barbets are a large family of birds with more than 40 species to be found in sub-Saharan Africa.  They are indeed hard to miss, and visitors often observe different species of barbets feeding on fruit of one kind or another, such as wild figs.  Barbets are confiding and are often found around safari camps or lodge grounds, delighting visitors with their sometimes brilliant plumage.  One of the most prominent camp followers is the Crested Barbet, a chunky bird with a prominent crest and almost comically colorful plumage.  During the heat of the summer they can often be heard emitting a long, insectlike trilling sound which seems to go on and on and on.


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Another common African barbet which favors the same habitat as the Crested Barbet, is the equally attractive and similarly entertaining Blackcollared Barbet.  The Blackcollared Barbet is a conspicuous bird with a prominent red head and contrasting black collar.  Their call sets them apart from any other birds in the same habitat, being a remarkable duet between two birds, with just milliseconds separating the sound coming from first one and then the other bird.  Even looking at them sitting on a branch and calling like this, it is hard to imagine that the sound is a combination of two birds calling in turn.  


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Drongos and orioles

The Forktailed drongo is  a ubiquitous bird in the African savannah, being present in all but the driest desert areas. It is easily seen and identified by its extravagantly forked tail, but be careful not to confuse it with a Black flycatcher, if you’re just starting out on the bird-watching journey. The forktailed drongo is a querulous, argumentative bird, seemingly always engaged in territorial or mating disputes. Forktailed drongos are known to mimic the alarm calls of other birds such as babblers and can fool babblers into seeking cover and abandoning food, upon hearing the false alarm calls.  The drongos then swoop in and appropriate the food.  Along with just a handful of other birds, drongos are out and about right throughout the day, even on the hottest of hot days in midsummer.

The African orioles are nothing like their American ‘cousins, the daintier, robin-like new world orioles.   If the Baltimore oriole were a runner, the  African Blackheaded oriole is an Olympic sprinter by comparison.  Just like the Blackheaded Oriole, the African Golden Oriole is a powerful flyer, its distinctive liquid call heard over long distances, as it dashes through a stand of tall  trees, often alighting close to the top.  In the Southern African summer months the resident Blackheaded Orioles are joined by migrating European Golden Orioles, equally splendid birds with an almost luminous yellow plumage and red eyes and beak.

Crows and ravens

The highly evolved and intelligent crows and ravens are encountered all over Africa.  Like their counterparts elsewhere in the world, they are commensurate with man, thus crow species like the Pied Crow and the Black Crow are often seen around cities and towns, scavenging whatever they can lay their bills on.  Pied Crows as well as the impressive White-necked Raven can also be seen in areas with mountains and cliffs along the eastern part of Southern African and into East Africa.  Several African port cities like Durban in South Africa and Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania are encountering problems with an invasion of House Crows, an alien species.


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Babblers, Robins, Flycatchers and Wagtails

African Babblers like the Arrowmarked Babbler are among the most entertaining of African birds, and it is possible to kill an hour or so just following a group of them around the camp grounds, as they slowly make their way from one safe spot to another.  All the while fussing over each other and making a great variety of calls and sounds, often with one bird starting off and then a whole chorus chiming in.  They can be quite raucous – and will hardly ever go unnoticed.  Babblers have an unusual social system, with a dominant pair of birds assisted through the breeding cycle by helpers.  Tightly knit groups of five to ten live together in large, defended territories.


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The many African species of robins and robin-chats are among the continent’s most accomplished songbirds, with names like Chorister Robin-chat being indicative of the bird’s vocal artistry.  The African morning chorus almost invariably contain the strong, melodious calls of one or more species in the robin family, such as the Chorister, Cape, Heuglin’s or Natal Robin-chat, or their East African representatives like the White-browed or Ruppell’s Robin-chat..  The robins are accomplished mime artists, sometimes including bits of songs of as many as 20 other forest species in one single burst.  


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Visitors to Africa might walk or drive by a dozen flycatchers unknowingly, simply because these quiet, retiring birds often perch in one spot,  making sallies from there to catch insects.  Not so the Paradise Flycatcher.  It is very much a presence in the area around its nesting site, with particularly the male of the species attracting considerable attention with its beautiful long orange tail and vivid blue orbital eyerings.  Paradise flycatchers will sometimes construct their nests quite close to human habitation, with the result that the birds are encountered constantly as they fly to and from the nest. 

Wagtails are dainty, delicate birds, constantly pumping their tails when perched.  In sub-Saharan Africa the distinctive African pied wagtail is often seen near water streams.  Its bold black and white coloration and size are dead giveaways as to the identity of the bird.  The smaller and more common Cape wagtail also likes water, but is equally at home in gardens and fields.  They are common garden birds in many African cities and even make themselves at home in inner-city areas, hawking insects on the pavement and picking up whatever scraps they can find.  Wagtails are among the most admired and appreciated of garden birds in Southern Africa, due to their confiding nature and their jaunty attitude.

Shrikes

I’ve always had a soft spot for the various species of shrikes of Southern Africa, mostly because I used to tape record birds in the field, and then play their calls back to them.  Many birds don’t react at all, or barely.  Not so shrikes and their cousins the batises.  They take immediate notice and sometimes even the most shy, least seen species like the Four-colored or Gorgeous Bush Shrike, will pop out of vegetation to investigate the source of the sound.  Clearly assuming that it is an intruder into its territory.  I no longer do this (record or play back bird calls) as it may cause some species unnecessary distress  and may have an impact on breeding success, particularly in areas where there are too many bird watchers walking around with bird tapes.  

The one bush shrike which has so far eluded my lens is the simply spectacular Crimsonbreasted Boubou, a bird of mostly dry thornveld areas.  It is spectacularly colorful with black and white wings and an astonishingly vivid red (crimson) chest, yet it always seems to find a way to stay obscured just within the tree canopy, behind some leaves,  and will fly to the next bush just when you think you have a line on it.

Shrikes are among the most vocal of bird species and on any given day on safari, you could easily hear as many as five or six shrike species without ever seeing them.  These would include the Puffback Shrike, Brubru, Greyheaded Bush Shrike, a Southern or Swamp Boubou and one or more of the Tchagras.


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Glossy starlings

Africa has a wealth of glossy starlings, spectacular birds whose feathers have a distinct metallic sheen, created by cells called melanosomes.  Glossy starlings are unique in having as many as four different kinds of melanosomes creating a literally dazzling range of iridescent colors in these birds.  Research done by the University of Akron showed that African starlings evolve color faster than any other bird, in fact 10 times faster than their ancestors and modern relatives.  Feather coloration is very important in African starlings because it is used to signal quality and dominance when competing for mates.


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When you first see a Cape Glossy Starling or Greater Blue-eared or Superb Starling – in good sunlight – the effect is quite mesmerizing.  The entire bird is lit up in what seems to be a thousand points of light, simply radiant with refracted light.  It is almost a pity that several of these glossy starling species are so common that they quickly lose their appeal and are essentially ignored by the locals, despite their visual appeal.


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Oxpeckers

There are two species of Oxpeckers in the world, both found in Africa.  The Yellowbilled (mostly in Southern Africa) and the Redbilled Oxpecker, mostly present in East Africa.  These birds feed mainly on ectoparasites like ticks, on a range of mammals such as Cape Buffalo, impala antelope, zebras, giraffes and hippos.  The Oxpeckers’ relationship with its mammal hosts was formerly thought to be an example of mutualism, but is now considered to be parasitic as the mammals do not really benefit in any way, and can be harmed by wounds being opened by the birds.  Hunters and professional walking guides always keep an ear open for the screeching call of the oxpecker.  It alerts the person on foot to be alert to the proximity of what might turn out to be dangerous game, like buffalo.


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Sugarbirds and sunbirds

There are only two sugarbirds in Africa.  Gurney’s – which is found in higher lying parts of north-eastern Africa and the Cape Sugarbird, which is closely associated with South Africa’s unique fynbos habitat.  Visitors are likely to see these spectacular long-tailed birds in a place like Cape Town’s Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens.  In fact, if you spend a bit of time around Kirstenbosch’s deservedly famous protea (also known as sugarbush) gardens, you are practically assured of seeing a Cape Sugarbird.  


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The southwestern Cape floral kingdom – a mix of fynbos, strandveld, forest, wetland, renosterveld and more – is also known for its several species of sunbirds, a particularly striking, small colorful bird.   Known collectively as the Nectariniidae, sunbirds are Africa’s equivalent of the hummingbird family. Both fulfil the same ecological role as nectar eaters. Hummingbirds are only found in the Americas whereas the Sunbirds are found largely in Africa, and also in parts of Asia.  Even though they are tiny and fast flyers, sunbirds are usually quite easily seen due to their brilliant and colorful plumage.  Running through practically any shade of the rainbow, they can be green, red, yellow, blue, purple or a mix of those.  The impact of the color is amplified by their iridescence which can turn these tiny birds into brilliant feathered bullets.


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Our blog post next Friday will be about Madagascar, sometimes known as the ‘Eighth Continent’ due to the wealth of endemic species found there, ranging from lemurs to birds to reptiles, plants and beyond.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 2

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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 2

Other than being pretty, or striking, or even awesome to see, birds intersect with the safari experience in several ways.

Practically anywhere you go on safari, there will be a dawn chorus.  More than any other destination you could travel to, Africa is where you hear birds more often, and earlier.  Well  before first light, and long before the sun actually appears, the first sounds heralding the new day start to pop up.  Far away in the distance you might hear the chirp-like call of an African Scops Owl, to be answered a few seconds later by another owl.  Then, depending on the habitat, the small, colorful birds which inhabit the dense thickets and edges of wetlands – where many camps are located – swing into action.


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Remarkably loud for their size, species such as the Chorister Robin-Chat, White-browed Robin-Chat, Cape Robin-Chat, Gorgeous Bush Shrike,  and other skulking species of the forest interior will get your attention.  Sometimes earlier and more insistently than you might have liked. Later still the various Bulbuls, Doves, Hornbills and Go-Away-Birds chime in, so stick around.  Around sunrise, it is not unusual to hear the raucous calls of Spurfowl and Francolins, sounding perpetually surprised and startled.  With luck, you will wake up to the melodious call of a Whitebrowed coucal – sounding much like water bubbling from a bottle.


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If you have a moment – when you’re not too busy getting ready for the morning game drive – this is the perfect time to take a seat on your verandah, with a cup or tea of coffee, and really immerse yourself in the sound and the place.  This is when you might experience that most magical of safari phenomena, a sense of profound deja vu.  Let your mind wander along with the view and the sounds of the African morning. Before long, you may experience a feeling of belonging, just as if you’ve been there before.


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Perhaps this has something to do with Africa having been our ancestral homeland, or maybe it is just a reflection of mind and body feeling at peace in such an idyllic  setting.  It is even more likely to happen just after first light, with the soft morning sun rays gently lighting up the landscape.  Whenever this happens to me – and I make a conscious effort to seek out suitable opportunities – it engenders a very powerful sense of belonging, and of being in a spot which feels just right.  The space-time continuum is real.


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The Kori Bustard

One of the most fascinating birds you are likely to see in Africa is the Kori Bustard, widely considered to be the heaviest flying bird in the world.  When the males are in full breeding display – with their white neck feathers distended into a prominent hemisphere – they are unmistakable and can be seen from more than a kilometer away.  Kori Bustards are cryptically colored and blend incredibly well into a grassland habitat.


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If you see one, start looking around and invariably there will be one or two others around, in the far distance.  Koris are shy by nature and rarely allow vehicles to approach them closely.  They are almost always walking away when seen, and it is tricky to get a good photo of a Kori Bustard head-on.  I know 90% of my Kori Bustards shots show the birds side-on.  Maybe trying to get a better angle on a Kori would be a nice challenge for a future trip!


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Sandgrouse

Sandgrouses are pigeon-sized birds which are often seen on the ground in sandy or gravelly terrain, in search of seeds,  green shoots, leaves, bulbs and berries.  There are 16 species of sandgrouse – mostly found in semi-desert regions of Africa – and many of them look alike. If you do happen to drive up to a few of them and they stay put, be sure to put the binoculars on them as their cryptic coloration conceal some beautiful neck bands, face patterns and breast markings.

Most sandgrouse species drink at dawn, others at dusk.  Sometimes many hundreds or even thousands of them converge at a water hole, and it is a spectacle to see them swoop in to drink quickly (they can gulp up enough for 24 hours, in just seconds ) and then explosively fly away.  Sandgrouses are at their most vulnerable while drinking, and it is not unusual to see a bird of prey such as a Sparrowhawk or Lanner Falcon lurking nearby or actually attacking them.


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Pigeons, Doves and Parrots

If you’re driving through mature woodland savannah and hear the typical shriek of a parrot, you’re not imagining anything.  That is a real parrot you are hearing.  There are not many parrots in Africa – compared with South America for example – but there are a few and some of them are quite common and widely spread.  These include the Brownheaded, Meyer’s and Cape Parrot, and the Rosyfaced, Fischer’s and Lilian’s Lovebirds.  They are more often heard than seen, often just a flash of green disappearing into the treetops.


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Pigeons and doves are a different story.  They are abundant and usually quite confiding, but tend to blend into the background due to being so common.  If you’ve seen one, you haven’t seen them all, by any means.  The Green Pigeon – often seen within the canopy of wild fig trees – is a spectacular bird, when seen properly.  So be sure to check for them and train your binocs on them.  Their olive green and blue feather pattern and blue eyes are spectacular.  With prominent red bill and feet, plus their peculiar pigeon-like foraging habits, they are worth seeking out.


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Cuckoos

Cuckoos are common birds of the African bushveld, with many of them widely spread and quite visible in acacia thornveld.  Several of the cuckoo species are summer migrants to Southern Africa, arriving around October and heading back up north around April or so.  So if you are a keen birder, this is the best time to be in the region, to be able to see the cuckoos and many other summer migrants which include some shrikes, birds of prey, various wading birds, bee-eaters, orioles and others.


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Cuckoos are vocal and often quite loud – sometimes annoyingly so as in the case of the Black Cuckoo.  It can literally drive one insane with its drawn out, monotonous round-the-clock call: “I’m so S-I-C-K, I’m so S-I-C-K”.  Paradoxically, some of the most well-known cuckoos – at least by their call – are almost never seen.  The best example is the Redchested Cuckoo.  It takes concerted, persistent effort on the part of any birder to actually see one of these pretty yet supremely elusive, raptor-like birds.  For visitors, my  best advice is:  enjoy the call.  ‘Piet my vrou, Piet my vrou!’


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Coucals

Coucals are found all over Africa and in many cities like Johannesburg and Nairobi, they are common garden birds.  Gardeners love them for their snail-eating penchant.  In the wilderness, they are often seen skulking around thickets or on the edges of bushes, sometimes flopping from one low perch to another.  They are not the best of flyers.


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When seen well, Coucals remind one remarkably of their reptilian ancestry, looking for all the world like little miniature dinosaurs.  The most commonly seen species is the White-browed Coucal.  It looks just like the Burchell’s Coucal which looks just like the Copperytailed Coucal which looks just like the Senegal Coucal.  One of the reasons, I guess, why birding is an acquired taste…


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Owls and Nightjars

Seeing an Owl – anywhere – is a thrill.  These quiet-flying, big-eyed, mostly nocturnal birds of prey have a special mystique attached to them.  Their baleful stares, their haunting calls, their association with darkness, magic and mystery – everything about owls is weird and different.  Africa has its share of owls and on safari there are many opportunities to mostly hear, but sometimes also see them.  If you’ve ever been on an African safari you have likely already heard the call of the African Scops Owl.  And if you are planning to go, you will certainly hear them, if you listen.  Sometimes throughout the night, their chirping, insect-like calls penetrate the darkness, one answered by another.  Over and over.  As to seeing them, good luck with that…


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Fortunately, there are many African owls that are not that difficult to see.  The tiny Pearlspotted Owlet is one of them.  This fearless creature – which can often be heard in a wide range of habitats, making its long, whistling call – is diurnal and is much despised by smaller birds.  This often results in several small birds ‘mobbing’ a Pearlspotted Owlet, which attracts the attention of safari guides, and guests.  Many guides are also capable of ‘calling up’ a Pearlspotted Owlet, by mimicking its call.  When seen from behind, it has a false pair of ‘eyes’ on the back of its head, making it appear to be looking directly at you.  The real purpose being to fool potential predators into thinking that they have already been spotted.  Like other owls, a Pearlspotted Owlet is capable of turning its head about 270 degrees.  Did we say that owls are weird?


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Another relatively frequently seen African owl is Verraux’s Owl (Giant Eagle Owl), a massive bird which spends much of its day secreted in the mid to upper part of stands of large, leafy trees.  Due to their sheer size, they are often spotted in this situation, or sometimes around dawn or dusk, when they tend to perch in an open spot, sometimes emitting their strange screeching call.  When seen close up, their eye-lids are distinctively pink, yet another way to distinguish them from any other owl species.


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A highly sought-after African species of owl is a handsome, large brown to beautiful ginger-colored bird, the peculiar and very distinctive Pel’s Fishing Owl.  It is most easily seen in the Okavango Delta in Northern Botswana, but is widely distributed in suitable wetland areas in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, such as along the Luvuvhu River in the far northern part of Kruger Park.  Pel’s Fishing Owl is one of the few species of owls eating fish almost exclusively.  It is rarely seen mostly because of its solitary and largely nocturnal existence, patrolling rivers and swamps in the dead of night.  When seen, it is often hidden away in a dense thicket during the day, or close to a nesting site which may be a hollow or cavity in a big tree.  On a recent trip I was fortunate to be in tent #4 at Wilderness Safaris’ Pelo Camp in the Okavango, where a pair of Pel’s Fishing Owls (they mate for life) were raising a young chick in a tree just meters from the tent.


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As for nightjars, they are the African equivalent of the North American Nighthawk.  The African birds are not usually seen hawking insects in a Target parking lot, of course.  Rather, they are usually seen on the ground, at dawn or dusk, their cryptically colored feathers making them extremely hard to tell apart.  All but a couple of species are practically indistinguishable from a distance, by all but the most expert of birders who put together the habitat, call (if heard), the known distribution of specific species and a few other clues, to come up with a name.  The rest of us amateur bird-watchers and visitors will mostly have to be content with writing down “nighthawk species’ in our list of birds seen.  You will most assuredly hear them though, at night.  In fact, one of the most ubiquitous sounds of the Southern African bushveld night is the call of the Fierynecked Nightjar, a loud and instantly recognizable ‘Good Lord deliver us…’


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Kingfishers

Africa has less than a tenth of the world’s total number of kingfishers, but these highly visible, charismatic birds are sure to draw the attention of any visitor on safari, anywhere on the continent.  While many kingfishers live up to their name and actually hunt for and eat fish, many of them do not.  In fact, several species of kingfishers which you are likely to see in Southern or East Africa, are totally non-aquatic, woodland birds.  The most striking of these being the Woodland Kingfisher, a simply gorgeous blue and white bird with a vivid red-and-black bill.  Its ringing call is an announcement to all and sundry in Southern Africa that summer has arrived, the bird being a seasonal migrant.  Other frequently seen insectivorous kingfishers include the Brownheaded, Striped, and Grey-hooded Kingfisher.  None of these are quite as flashy as the Woodland Kingfisher, but they have their distinctive appeal.


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Of the ‘true’ kingfishers, the ones that attract the most attention are the Malachite, Giant and Pied Kingfisher.  The Malachite is a veritable tiny flying jewel, a bedazzled midget flashing along many an African waterway, usually seen when perched on a reed or twig not more than about three to four feet over the water.  When approached carefully, it will often stay put, allowing for some ‘brilliant’ images.  We’ve taken several of those over the years!  Hopefully you will be able to do the same on your own trip.


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The Giant Kingfisher is hard to miss when around, being several times the size of most of the other aquatic kingfishers.  Being the biggest African kingfisher with a shaggy crest, massive bill and with a prominent chestnut breast band (males) or white-spotted black breast band (females), these birds are usually quite easy to see and identify where present.  They are not particularly shy either, often perching prominently on sticks or posts, in search of fish, frogs and crabs.


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Pied Kingfishers are probably the most commonly observed of any of the African Kingfishers, simply because they are such show-offs.  At almost any body of water in sub-Saharan Africa, there will be a pair and sometimes several pairs of Pied Kingfishers, loudly calling out to each other and proclaiming their presence to would-be intruders.  These medium-sized, head-bobbing black and white kingfishers are often seen hovering over the water prior to diving vertically and pouncing on a small fish or other prey animal. When successful, they will sometimes devour smaller organisms while flying back to their perch, or otherwise take it with them to be beaten against the post or twig, before being swallowed.


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In the third instalment of our ‘Beautiful Birds of Africa’ blog next Friday, we will be looking at some of the most colorful of African birds such as the bee-eaters, rollers, hoopoes, barbets, flycatchers, shrikes, oxpeckers and sunbirds.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 1

20th November 2020

Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 1


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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 1

For many visitors to Africa, observing and appreciating birds is an added bonus to their safari.  Other than a relatively small group of serious birders, sometimes jocularly referred to as ‘twitchers’, few people travel to Africa mainly to see birds.  For the vast majority of safari-goers, it’s all about the animals.  More precisely, the large mammals like elephants, giraffes, zebras and buffaloes, and of course the big cats.  At least as far as game drives are concerned.  Beyond that, many people are of course also interested in other aspects of the African milieu such as history, culture, cuisine, scenery and so on.


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On a typical game-drive though, we’re all pretty much looking for the larger animals.  This is where things sometimes go awry.  Mammals move around in real time and every now and then, sometimes more frequently than you might anticipate, they just seem to be absent.  In safari parlance, this is referred to as a quiet day.  Guides handle it differently.  Some just keep on driving – and driving some more – which can ultimately be frustrating for both guide and guests.  Other, more resourceful guides shift their and their guests’ focus to smaller organisms which are often overlooked when there’s plenty of mammal action.  Organisms like chameleons, tortoises – and birds.


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Once you start seeing them,  perhaps prompted by a guide looking to fill a hole on a slow morning drive, or on your own in a camp where birds are confiding and approach humans quite closely, you soon realize that there are an astonishing number and variety of beautiful and interesting birds of all shapes and sizes,  all over Africa.


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Secretary Bird

For my traveling partner Kathy and and for me, no Africa trip is complete without a sighting of a Secretarybird.  These stunning, long-legged terrestrial eagles (as they are sometimes referred to), are unmistakable when seen.  There’s simply no other bird like it:  a huge bird of prey which spends much of its time striding along open patches of grassveld and savannah habitat, seeking out its food which consists of rodents, grasshoppers, small mammals, frogs, lizards, snakes and tortoises. The Secretarybird is unique to the point of being the only bird in its own family, the Sagittariidae.


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Ostrich

The largest bird of all is of course the ostrich and most visitors to Africa do get a chance to see these giant, flightless birds strutting in open terrain which they favor.  Ostriches are widely distributed in suitable habitats all over Africa, so whether your safari takes you to Southern or Eastern Africa, to Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Kenya or Tanzania, you are likely to see some ostrich along the way, somewhere.


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On a recent trip to Northern Botswana, on a game drive out of Mombo Camp, we witnessed a fascinating courtship display involving the markedly different male and female ostrich, the males having mostly black feathers and the female being a dull grey.  The male performed a ritualistic wing-flapping display, initially flapping alternate wings and then violently flapping both wings.  The female runs a circle around the male with her wings lowered, before they unite.  Even from a distance of several hundred meters we could see this fascinating spectacle quite clearly.


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Herons

Herons are widely distributed in Africa and unless you find yourself in a particularly arid area, probably not a day goes by on anyone’s safari, without a heron sighting.  The most spectacular one is the Goliath Heron, Africa’s biggest heron.  Typical of its species, it is aquatic so it can be seen standing in a river or pond, waiting  for its prey which consists of fish, frogs and other aquatic animals.  Invariably solitary,  herons catch their food by impaling them with their sharp beaks.  Closely related to herons, there are many different kinds of mostly white egrets to be seen in similar aquatic habitats, all over Africa.  An interesting exception is the Cattle Egret which – on safari – is mostly seen away from water, on the ground, following mammals like wildebeest, zebra and buffaloes.  They pounce on the insects disturbed by the grazing action of the animals.  Cattle egrets only follow mammals which walk and graze at about the same pace as cattle.


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Storks

Of the storks which you may see on your Africa trip, the most visible one is the rather homely if not downright ugly Marabou Stork.  It has a massive, scary-looking beak, a bloated, hairy air sac and a bald, bristly head.  Add to that its tendency to scavenge – it can often be seen hanging around landfills – and it is not surprising that the Marabou Stork is not widely revered.    The Marabou is a strong flyer though, with a wingspan of up to 12 feet, among the longest of any bird.


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Another fairly easily seen African stork is the handsome Saddlebilled stork, also unmistakable because of its huge size, vivid black and white plumage and brilliant red and black beak and legs.  Saddlebilled storks are the only storks with marked visible differences between the males and females, the females having yellow eyes while the males’ eyes are red, plus they have visible yellow wattles.


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Flamingoes

If your trip takes you to the right habitat – being a river-mouth, lake or similar stretch of shallow water with high salinity, you may see something truly spectacular:  a flock of tall, thin, elegantly pink flamingos.  They are even more beautiful in flight when the vivid pink coloration of their underwings is seen to its best advantage. Currently, the best places to see flamingos in East Africa are the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley such as Lake Logipi, Natron, Bogoria, Magadi, Manyara and Nakuru.


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Of these the first three are currently excellent, while the last two are currently poor.   A good base from which to make a couple of outings in search of flamingoes would be Loldia House on Lake Elmenteita, in Kenya.  In Southern Africa, your best bet to see and photograph some flamingoes would be the Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana, the Walvis Bay estuary in Namibia, and another Namibia location – Etosha Pan inside Etosha National Park.


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Vultures

Even if you spend just a few days on safari in Africa, you’re likely to see some vultures, the continent being rich with vulture species.  Just like the turkey and black vultures of North America, African vultures are not the prettiest of creatures. Their large heads with prominent hooked bills, bare necks, a seemingly permanent demonic glare, and their carrion-eating behavior are not conducive to popularity.  They serve a necessary function of course, being nature’s recyclers.


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The overall number of vultures in Africa has dropped alarmingly over the last three decades, by more than 60%.  This has put at least six species of vultures in the critically endangered category.  According to an article in National Geographic, most African vultures may become extinct within the next 50 to 100 years.  Many are killed by feeding on poisoned animal carcasses, while others are hunted and sold to traditional medicine practitioners, and they also suffer casualties by flying into power lines.


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Birds of prey

Birds of prey are practically synonymous with an African safari trip.  Over the course of a week or two in the African bush, visitors are sure to see several of these most magnificent birds, such as the ubiquitous African Fish Eagle, the much heralded Bateleur, various Snake Eagles, the incredible Martial Eagle, and the sleek Verreaux Eagle.  Once you start paying attention to birds of prey, you’ll soon realize that there is a confusing array of mostly brown eagles – several of which are summer migrants to Southern and East Africa.


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If you have a well qualified bird guide, you will also see several species of buzzards, harriers, kites, kestrels, hawks and falcons.  Some are common and easily seen, others shy and elusive, diving into the undergrowth or secreting themselves deep in a forest, at the first sign of human presence.


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The African Fish Eagle is one of the world’s eight species of fishing eagles, one of the other notable ones being the American Bald Eagle.  Superficially, it resembles the African Fish Eagle quite closely.  African Fish Eagles do live mainly on fish, but they are – like the Bald Eagle – also scavengers, eating carcasses of drowned animals and pirating fish caught by other birds like osprey and herons.  Fish Eagles are common all over Africa, and they can be seen close to almost any fair-sized river, lake or other aquatic habitat.  Their ringing call – often performed in a duet – can be heard all throughout the day and is one of the most typical, evocative sounds of the African bush.


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Guineafowls and francolins

Guineafowls and francolins – recently renamed as spurfowl – are easily seen, noisy ground-dwelling birds.  The most common of the guineafowl species – the helmeted guineafowl – is found all over sub-Saharan Africa, usually moving at a fairly good pace over the terrain, feeding non-stop with frequent contact calls keeping the flock in touch.  Unless they are hard pressed, guineafowl will keep running long before they take to the air.  The same is true of the spurfowl, which often run in the path in front of the game drive vehicles for long distances before dashing off to the left or right.  At night though, guineafowls can be found huddled together in the branches of a tree, away from predators.


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Keen birdwatchers are always thrilled to spot the striking Crested guineafowl – a bird of forests and dense thickets – and the even more striking Vulturine guineafowl, which is mostly seen in arid areas of Northern Kenya such as Samburu.  The spurfowl and francolins are superficially quite similar, with heavily barred or spotted feathers, but if you see them close-up, they can be easily identified on the basis of their bill, feet and eye color, and their breast, neck and face feathers.  Francolins and spurfowl are often heard well before they are seen, their raucous crowing or cackling calls reverberating through the African landscape in the mornings and again in the evening as they are settling down.


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Hornbills

Hornbills are fascinating birds in many ways, but mostly because of their peculiar breeding behaviour, which start with finding a cavity in a tree, where the eggs are laid.  The female hornbill is then more or less incarcerated in the hole with the eggs and later the chicks, the opening to the outside being mostly closed up, with a mud wall.  Leaving an opening just big enough to feed the female bird and the chicks, male hornbills can often be seen flying to and from a nest site, all throughout the day.  Once the chicks reach a certain age, the female breaks out of the nest site and starts helping the male with the feeding duties.


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On a safari trip of 10 days or so, most visitors will see at least a couple of hornbill species, such as the ever-present redbilled and yellowbilled hornbills.  There are several other species of note though, including the loud, wailing trumpeter hornbill (a bird of moist, lowland forests), and of course the most impressive of them all, the huge ground hornbill.  To be sure, they are simply large, ground-dwelling hornbills.  Not ‘turkey buzzards’.  Their deep, booming calls can often be heard over great distances, early in the morning.  Unfortunately, Ground Hornbills are becoming more and more scarce every year, their numbers  dwindling year by year.  This alarming development is closely tied to their slow reproductive rate and the same factors affecting so many other birds:  habitat loss, electrocution from power lines, accidental poisoning, and illegal hunting.


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Cranes

As a family, the cranes of the world are in trouble.  No less than eleven of the fifteen species of cranes are threatened with extinction. Cranes are endangered or globally threatened due to a long list of reasons, the most prominent one being habitat loss. Crane breeding success is negatively influenced – more so than for many other species – by human encroachment and development in general.   Other factors include accidental and deliberate poisoning and hunting.


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So when you find yourself in Uganda or Kenya, or in Northern Botswana, observing a family of stunningly beautiful Wattled or Crowned cranes, take some time to truly appreciate these special birds.  As the International Crane Foundation puts it, “…cranes continue to unite people throughout the world through their charisma and symbolism of fidelity and longevity.”  By traveling to Africa and supporting companies and organizations who operate in a sustainable and ecologically sensitive manner, you can play a role in helping secure a brighter future for these beautiful creatures.


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We will continue to focus on the beautiful birds of Africa in our blog post next Friday.  We will take a closer look at more fascinating and colorful species such as the Kori Bustard, various pigeons and doves, cuckoos, coucals, owls, nightjars and kingfishers.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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The WalkMashatu Foot Safari, Botswana

12th November 2020

The WalkMashatu Foot Safari, Botswana


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The WalkMashatu Foot Safari, Botswana

As one part of a multifaceted trip which also includes game drives and some water experiences such as boating or canoeing, a foot safari is for many the purest form of experiencing the African wilderness.  Free of the noise and intrusive impact of a vehicle and free to go just about anywhere, a walking safari is open-ended and unpredictable.  It is as close as one can get to the wilderness on many levels:  feeling the ground under your feet, touching the surrounding vegetation and listening for sounds while observing signs and tracks.  Being out of the vehicle adds a sense of vulnerability which is exciting and at times challenging.  Of course, you are quite safe in the presence of a careful, experienced, armed guide yet the possibility of an unplanned, unforeseen encounter is always hanging in the air.


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For our guests visiting Southern Africa, we recommend walking safaris in Zimbabwe (Hwange National Park), South Africa (Kruger National Park) and in the Tuli Wilderness area of south-eastern Botswana.  Having experienced the bush on foot in these and several other areas over the years, we put the 3-night WalkMashatu safari with specialist walking guide Stuart Quinn, at #1 on our list.  Stuart’s enthusiasm and passion for the Tuli area and all of its beauty and wildlife become evident from the moment you first meet him.  An affable, lanky professional guide with an encyclopedic knowledge of the Tuli Wilderness, Stuart imparts knowledge in a low-key, yet highly effective manner. Stuart’s infectious laugh and great sense of humor make him a fun person to be around.  We’ve done two foot safaris ourselves, with Stuart in charge, and will be returning to the Tuli Wilderness in November, for an update on conditions and facilities.


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A foot safari always starts with the ground rules:  walk in single file, take turns to walk in front just behind Stuart and keep the volume down.  Follow the head guide’s instructions at all times. Most importantly – in the event of something untoward happening – don’t run!  The overall objective of a foot safari is to experience nature in its totality. You would not be simply driving through it in a loud, intrusive vehicle.

Over the course of two different outings with Stuart, there’s been many highlights, some of which are the following:


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Sleepout at the Kgotla & Creeping up on Elephants

For many of our guests, the sleepout at the Kgotla is the high point of their entire Botswana trip.  We can understand why, having done this on our very first night on our very first visit to the area.  From the border post, it was about a 40-minute drive in an open 4-wheel drive vehicle to the overnight site, a circular open-air enclosure – the Kgotla.  En route we observed giraffes, kudu, impala, and elephants.  We knew that the six of us together with Stuart and his wife Julie would spend the night sleeping out.  We just didn’t know quite where and how.


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Our questions were soon answered and our fears allayed, once we arrived at the Kgotla. Previously a communal meeting place, the Kgotla is open to the sky but safe and secure for guests, with an impenetrable ‘wall’ of solid tree stumps keeping out unwanted visitors.  It made for a fun and totally novel experience to have a communal sleep out in such a quiet, peaceful spot with nobody else around.  It’s the bush, so naturally there was a campfire.  Slowly moving our camp chairs closer to the red-hot coals as the day’s warmth dissipated, it turned into a perfect night on safari.  With the flickering flames setting the scene, there was plenty of good conversation over a tasty, wholesome, ‘home-cooked’ meal, with a couple of glasses of nice wine.  Soon enough, we were all ready to retire to our small cots, spread out in a circle around an open fire, under a massive mashatu tree. In a light breeze with the cool air gently blowing across our faces, we fell asleep as peacefully and naturally as is humanly possible.  Sleeping in the open with nothing but the Botswana sky and stars above was exhilarating then, and lives on in our minds as a small jewel in our collection of memories.


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Not even the sound of a passing aircraft disturbed the natural rhythm. Not that it was always quiet.  Sometimes strident bird calls and other noises were enough to keep one guessing. Kathy had been somewhat ambivalent about this ‘sleeping outside’ business but in the end she was the biggest convert.  She slept so soundly that she totally missed two lions roaring nearby, very early the next morning.  The Kgotla has ‘his and hers’ showers and toilets which can be safely reached at any time. 

The following day we hiked to the Motloutse River where we saw about 30 to 40 elephants drinking and mud-bathing. Soon enough they were joined by first one, then another and yet another herd walking out of the bush on the other side of a very wide expanse of sandy gravel, making up the river-bed. Crouched down so as not to break the sky-line too much and alert them to our presence, we crept closer for some great views of these imposing beasts. As always, it was endlessly entertaining to watch their interaction and particularly to observe their dominance displays.


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By the time yet another herd approached the scene and started moving towards our right (the others were in front of us and to our left), Stuart wisely decided that it would be safer to move away from the river, just in case we got surrounded by elephants. Which would not nearly be as much fun as just observing them from a safe position.

We cut through a marshy (yet dry at the time) area with lots of elephant foot holes, through a very thick patch of bush and then on to the Mmamagwa Ruins and Rhodes’ Baobab, which we reached just as the sun was setting. The views over the valley, with the sun setting right in front of us, were superb. A tiny rock elephant shrew entertained us, scampering out from its rocky shelter right to our feet, quite unafraid of our presence. We had worked quite hard getting up the slopes and enjoyed a well-earned sundowner drink and some salty snacks there before we made our way back to camp, this time by vehicle.


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Mohave Bush Camp & Eagle Rock

Mohave is a tiny bush camp with just three basic bungalows next to each other and a thatched lounge and dining area as well as a small lapa overlooking a waterhole on the Mohave River. This is what safari is all about.  Great atmosphere, quiet, remote and wild.  True wilderness.  Mohave is known for often having lions around – we heard some – as well as elephants.

Afternoon tea this day was special with koeksisters and seasoned ground beef empanadas.   Just what the doctor ordered before we set off for Eagle Rock, a hike of about 90 minutes or so.  We encountered a few patches of heavy going sand along the way, but mostly the walking was fairly easy over flat terrain.


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The walk up to the top of Eagle Rock didn’t take much more than 10 to 15 minutes or so and can be done by almost anybody who is moderately fit and mobile.  Eagle Rock is an impressive promontory with a near 360 degree view over parts of the Limpopo valley, with the Motloutse River in the foreground. Up top, we promptly saw a Verreaux (Black) Eagle take to the sky. Several of its favorite prey animals – dassies (also known as rock rabbits) – could be seen scampering away.  From up there, we enjoyed great views over the surrounding countryside, the river and the distant hills.  It was a beautiful sunset.

Along the way up and down, Stuart pointed out various interesting geological features. Much of the rock was sandstone, with very visible ‘globules’ to be seen. These were round knobby protrusions or holes, depending upon whether the matter which caused their formation was softer or harder than the surrounding rock. If softer, the globule would wear away faster, causing a round hole; if harder, it would take much longer to erode, resulting in one of the knobby protrusions.


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From there we made our way to the next overnight stop but not before a most interesting encounter with the rarely seen brown hyena. Stuart had mentioned the presence of the animals in a particular spot – a large overhanging rock which formed a wide shallow cave of sorts. We crept up to the area through a narrow rock canyon, hoping to surprise one or more of the brown hyenas near their den. As it turned out, we did not surprise them: they had heard our approach and were lurking on the ‘exit’ side of the canyon. Kathy saw the brown hyena first as it bolted into its escape route, and Stuart and I also caught a glimpse of the dark shape as it slipped away.

As interesting as the sighting itself was the brown hyena clan’s boneyard. There were in excess of 40 to perhaps even 50 different bones – mostly skulls – lying around right in front of the shallow cave entrance. Most were impala horns with the top of the skull still attached, others were baboon skulls – even a much larger skull of a young elephant could be seen. The older ones were ivory white, while more recent scavenging finds such as a fairly fresh set of impala horns still had a pinkish tinge at its base, the animal having lost its life not very long ago at all.


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During dinner that night a large elephant bull came to the water hole at Mohave around 9 p.m. It was a real ‘great grey ghost’ scenario and everybody loved watching the elephant drinking quietly and then slipping away into the darkness, almost soundlessly.

Stargazing is amazing here with an incredibly clear sky.  Hanging over us as vividly as any of us had ever seen them were planets, stars, galaxies and the Milky Way.   Dinner – under the stars of course – consisted of butternut squash soup, garlic bread, chicken fried steak and cheesecake for dessert.  The food is home-cooked with no pretensions to be cutting-edge or fancy.  It is wholesome, tasty and nobody goes hungry.  We enjoyed a peaceful night.


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Walking into Lions

Our mission one morning was to track and find some lions which we had heard calling the previous night from camp. Stuart picked up their tracks soon enough but as it turned out – unknown to us at the time –  we had scared them away from where they were sleeping. 

Later on, having picked up the tracks again, we could see where the lions had crossed right over our tracks in several spots. Which meant that they were close but also that they were alert to our presence.


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This is what makes a walking safari such an interesting and ultimately fascinating experience.  You can seek out predators by following their tracks – which is what we did – only to find out that they are better at that game than humans.

In the end the chase was almost just as good as the catch. In our mind’s eye we could see the lions bounding towards us in slow motion just like in a National Geographic documentary. Perhaps the imagined version of walking into lions – which is what we were trying to do – is better than the real McCoy. There’s always another time!


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Serolo Tented Camp & the Hyena Den

For many WalkMashatu trailists, the last overnight stop on the trail is Serolo tented camp which was located on an elevated ridge above the floodplain, close to the then dry Limpopo River. There is a small waterhole just below the camp, a cozy lounge and dining room area and five en-suite tented units each with two three-quarter size beds, a separate shower and toilet and a powerful fan.

On the day we arrived there, we enjoyed afternoon tea with some vegetarian quiche and mini brownies.  Then we set off on the afternoon activity, a drive along the Limpopo River, at the time reduced to a dry, sandy riverbed.  A few kilometers further on we reached a rocky outcrop where we made our way to a hyena den site.  Much to our surprise – and delight – there were four babies to be seen, a couple of which were really curious about our presence and came right up to us to get a whiff of our smell.

The light was perfect and I managed a few good captures of the hyenas acting out and staring at us.


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They were awaiting the return of the adult hyenas who would be bringing them some food. Just then, we heard two lions calling each other.  It sounded close and getting closer.  Hot footing it back to our vehicle, we drove out to the nearby main road and less than 500 meters from where we had parked, we saw one and then another lion in the road. We sat and watched, pretty much spellbound as the two spectacular male lions walked towards each other.  Through binoculars and from behind our camera lenses we watched as they performed a brief re-introduction ritual consisting of rubbing noses. Then they promptly flopped down for a snooze right in the gravel road. Happy and content we made our way back to Serolo camp for drinks and dinner. 

Everybody agreed that it had been a very special day.

In next week’s blog we will talk about another kind of foot safari – a gorilla trek.  How does a gorilla trek in Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda differ from a similar trek in Uganda’s Bwindi National Park?  Check in with us next Friday for our perspective on that, and more.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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27th May 2023

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The Big Cats of Mashatu, Botswana

12th November 2020

The Big Cats of Mashatu, Botswana


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The Big Cats of Mashatu, Botswana

Where in Africa can you go on safari and over the course of three or four days be practically assured of seeing lions, leopards and cheetahs?  

The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya?  Possibly – but there’s always a chance of dipping out on leopards which are scarce in mostly open grassveld habitat. 

The north-eastern lowveld areas of South Africa including the Kruger National Park and adjacent private game reserves?  Yes, but you’d have to get lucky with cheetahs as they tend to avoid the densely wooded and thickets typical of this part of Africa.  

Northern Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Chobe and Moremi areas?  With luck yes but again you may come up short on at least one of the species.  Cheetahs are not common at all in Northern Botswana and even lions are thinly spread in some areas.


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A complicating factor for photographers in all three of these areas?  Off-road driving is not permitted in vast portions of the Serengeti, Masai Mara, South Africa’s Kruger Park and Botswana’s national parks.   

Your best bet for a big cat bonanza?  Mashatu Game Reserve in south-eastern Botswana, particularly in the dry season from about July through October.  Looking back over my photo albums from recent trips to Mashatu, they all have one thing in common:  lots of good, close-up photos of lions, leopards and cheetahs.  All three.  Every time.  With off-road and night drives allowed, visitors and photographers have the opportunity to approach the cats relatively closely during the day (such as for the diurnal cheetahs) and to observe lions and leopards at night, when they are hunting.


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Lions, leopards and cheetahs are seen on the Mashatu Game reserve just about every day of the year.  Even in a month like March when cat sightings can be difficult elsewhere due to thick vegetation.  Mashatu delivered big-time last March with an average of  5 different cheetahs being seen every day.  Leopards are not easy to see anywhere, but at Mashatu you can pretty much bank on it, particularly during the dry winter months.   In addition to lion, leopard, cheetah, other predator species such as Black-backed jackal, African wildcat, bat-eared fox and spotted hyena are seen daily on Mashatu. The brown hyena are more shy, yet still seen frequently.


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How did Mashatu become such a big cat paradise? According to Mashatu Research Director Dr. Andrei Snyman, it is the result of extensive conservation efforts. Through eco-tourism, rather than hunting, a sanctuary was created where animal populations could grow with minimal human interference. The reserve is unfenced which means that animals are free to follow their natural movement patterns.   About 30 years ago, there were hardly any leopard, almost no cheetah and very few lions at Mashatu. Thirty  years of sustained conservation practices have resulted in a massive increase in their populations.


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Leopards

When photographers visualize the quintessential Mashatu photograph, they see a leopard draped in the branches of a giant Mashatu Tree.  So it is not surprising that when the Mashatu guides are out tracking leopards, they peer into the treetops of every Mashatu Tree they pass.  Ever so often, there will be a rosetted cat snoozing above. Leopards love Mashatu trees for their large size, rigid branches and plentiful shade.  The perfect spot for a midday nap.


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The Leopards of Mashatu are incredibly creative when it comes to finding suitable spots to hide their young.   It could be a clump of old branches, a rocky outcrop or in very thick bush near a riverbed.  Fortunately, the cats are so relaxed around the safari vehicles, that they invariably lead the Mashatu guides to their den sites. Watching leopard cubs interact, without any fear of the vehicles, is something truly special.


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Cheetahs

Mashatu’s cheetah population is incredibly healthy and cheetahs are seen every single day by guests. In 2018 alone, there were 14 new cubs born. One of the reasons for their success is the wide-open terrain of Mashatu.


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They are able to chase down prey during the hunt, and easily reach their top speed, without having to dodge too many trees and shrubs. Guests generally see 2-4 cheetahs together comprising either a male coalition or mother and her cubs.


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LIONs

According to Andrei Snyman, Ph.D. who heads up Mashatu’s Research, the reserve’s current  lion population constitutes roughly 65% of the estimated maximum carrying capacity.   Their ecosystem is unfenced, which means that the lions are not restricted within Mashatu and the Northern Tuli Game Reserve.  Only time will tell if the population within the reserve will increase, or if lions will disperse into neighbouring protected areas. Dr. Snyman pointed out that male lions, when defeated, have to move to find another territory.  This emigration has generally resulted in the fluctuation of the lion population in Mashatu over the years.


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What is important to note, says Dr. Snyman, is that the Northern Tuli Game Reserve (of which Mashatu is the largest single landowner) is a nucleus for lions in the area. This became clear upon observing the dispersal, emigration and general movement of lions from within the Northern Tuli GR into neighboring areas. Reserves which had no lions, or very small lion populations, now have growing populations, thanks to the protection of land and the work done within the Northern Tuli GR.


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As Dr Andrei Snyman writes,  “There are only six lion “strongholds” across the continent of Africa – that is, areas that each have more than 1,000 lions. The future of lions and the conservation of this remarkable species rests not on these six large populations, but the multitude of smaller, interconnected lion populations scattered across a human-dominated landscape.”


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Dr. Snyman added that despite the increase of lion numbers in the Northern Tuli GR and surrounding areas, it is estimated that lion numbers have declined 43% in the past 3 lion generations, stretching over about 20 years.  There are as few as 20,000 lions left across Africa, occupying only 8 percent of their historic range.


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With lion populations vanishing across the African continent, the need to protect the remaining populations have become critical. Through science and research, the Northern Tuli GR has solid baseline data to continue its conservation efforts to protect and conserve the lions and other big cats of the area.


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In our blog post next Friday, we take a look at some of Africa’s beautiful and interesting birds including the ostrich, secretarybird, herons, storks, flamingoes, birds of prey, hornbills and cranes.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda

5th November 2020

Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda


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Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda

GORILLA TREKKING IN BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST, UGANDA

The night before my first ever gorilla trek in the Nkuringo sector of Bwindi National Park in Uganda, I did not sleep well.  Excitement, anticipation, maybe a little bit of apprehension. Who knows. All of the traveling to get there, the thought of seeing the gorillas close up, the realization that I would have just one precious hour with them. Thoughts about cameras and lenses, light and shade, f-stops and ISO settings. It all got to be a bit much and kept my brain synapses firing long after I should’ve been asleep.


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By the time we arrived at the trailhead the next morning, I was completely lost in my thoughts, lagging behind the other four persons who would be trekking the same gorilla group that morning. Just then, three cold little hands suddenly gripped mine, two on the left and one on the right. Totally spontaneously three little Uganda boys – one set of twins and a slightly older friend – had decided that I needed some company and maybe a sympathetic face to look up at me. No question, I did. Their timing was perfect and although I couldn’t understand a word they were saying, their gentle touch and their sparkling eyes said it all: “Don’t worry mzungu, you’re going to be just fine. Relax, give that heavy bag to a porter and don’t fret so much about the photographs. Just enjoy the experience!”


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Barely an hour later, our small group were face to face with the most impressive big apes still to be found wandering this earth: the gentle giants who inhabit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and a few other patches of similar habitat in neighboring Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The Mountain Gorilla. There are only about 1,000 of these great apes left in the wild, so it is an awesome experience – in the old-fashioned sense of the word – to behold them right there in front of you, stuffing their faces with big handfuls of leaves, clearly relishing every ounce of the approximately 40 pounds pounds of food they consume every day.


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The gorilla trek in Uganda took place in the Nkuringo (southern) sector of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  It is no mystery why a British colonial official added ‘Impenetrable’ to the name of the existing Crown Forest Reserve, almost a hundred years ago now.  It is a thick curtain of green, with extensive stands of bamboo interspersed among large forest hardwoods. The bamboo and a dense ground cover of ferns, vines, and other plants make it heavy-going for anybody on foot.  On the day of our visit, we had to walk down from the trailhead, negotiating a steep slope. Even though the gorillas were relatively close by, it would entail some scrambling down an ill-defined path to get to them. Fortunately, we each had a porter to help with an assist where needed and with a hand to reach out for, when gravity won out. 


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Eventually, we got very close to the gorillas but photography was difficult: they kept turning their backs on us or dodging behind the vegetation – inadvertently one assumes. I did not have the right photo equipment for a gorilla trek. My 200-400 zoom lens was too much glass and too heavy; I could barely pick it up towards the end. My other lens – a 28-70mm zoom lens was just a little on the short side. The ideal lens would be a fast zoom in the 70-200mm or 100-400mm range.


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GORILLA TREKKING IN VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, RWANDA

Our subsequent gorilla treks in Rwanda, at Volcanoes National Park, were considerably easier, with less in the way of steep up or downhills.  Even so, it involved quite a long walk with some pretty rough spots towards the end, close to where the gorillas were.  On both our Rwanda treks, it took about one hour, from the trailhead, to get close to where the gorillas were. To be sure, not too strenuous a hike, nothing like the slopes of Bwindi.  The first time around, our designated gorilla family was in a wide open area and I would have gotten some great photographs – if the weather had played along. All went well until about 10 minutes before we got to the gorilla group, when the rain came.  It never let up, in fact it got worse. I took a few quick shots and then stowed my camera and lens.  I did not want to risk potentially serious damage to the optical equipment – there was just too much water around. Just as well.  Someone else in the group (a dentist from Sheffield, England) had two cameras seize up on him. Even so it was a great experience. Rainy conditions or not, we marveled at the proximity to those magnificent animals. Of course, they were affected by the rain also, mostly just patiently sitting there, waiting for it to end.


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On our second gorilla trek at Volcanoes, we were allocated to the Kwitonda family group.  As it turned out, we were fortunate to see about 15 to 17 individuals – all gathered in a clearing in the forest.  For the better part of an hour we observed them feeding, playing, resting – and resting some more.  A couple of youngsters were gamboling around, tumbling, jumping, chest-thumping and climbing onto high spots, playing ‘king of the castle’.

A female was nursing her baby, yet another female was cradling her 3-month old baby protectively, and the #2 silverback male was in a pensive mood, posing for a series of ‘selfies’ with excited visitors positioning themselves between a camera and the gorilla, for the obligatory Facebook or Instagram pic.


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As the hour slipped by all too quickly, we watched this ‘slice of life’ portion of ‘a day in the life of a gorilla family’ daily existence, in awe and fascination.  It was easy to imagine that almost all of their days in this beautiful sanctuary were spent in the same bucolic fashion, surrounded by family members while enjoying tasty bamboo shoots, as well as leaves, stems and fruits of many other plant species.

It became perfectly clear to me why these stunning animals are as universally revered and sought after as they are.  They are undeniably at the pinnacle of the animal world, the very embodiment of the most special thing that can be lost, if global wildlife conservation attempts fail.


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A few gorilla trekking hints and observations:

  • Try to maintain a distance of about 20 feet between yourself and the gorillas; the further back you are, the more relaxed the group will be.  And the lower the likelihood of any diseases being transmitted from human to gorilla. 
  • Always keep your voice down. However, it is okay to ask the guide questions. Do not smoke, drink or eat when you are near the gorillas as this might inevitably increase the risk of food/drink droplets falling and increase the risk of transmission of diseases.
  • Flash photography is not permitted – when taking pictures move slowly and carefully so as not to alarm or disturb the animals.
  • Do not touch the gorillas – they are wild animals.  They are habituated to the presence of humans but could become agitated or even aggressive when provoked.   
  • The gorillas live at an altitude of about 8,000 to as high as 13,000 feet above sea level.  So pace yourself, particularly on the hike up to the first point of contact.  Walk slowly.  You will hear your guides use a Swahili phrase:  ‘pole, pole!’  Pronounced ‘POE-lay POE-lay’ it simply means ‘slowly slowly’.  
  • Two gorilla treks are always better than one, particularly for keen photographers and videographers.  There’s a chance of one outing being negatively affected by weather (rain or poor visibility due to mist/fog), or by the gorillas being obscured by thick vegetation or in difficult terrain.  Also, no two outings are the same or even similar.  The make-up of the gorilla groups is different, some with more babies and youngsters, others with more silverbacks, so you are unlikely to experience ‘more of the same’.  Each day and each trek is different, with unique behavior, setting and interaction.  So if you do have the means and time at your disposal, stay a bit longer and do a second trek.  
  • Be sure to hire a porter – again two being better than one – to assist you with carrying your stuff and with negotiating tricky or muddy terrain.  At about US$20 per porter for the duration of the trek, you will have a much more enjoyable time and you will be making a direct contribution to the well-being of the local community.


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on our favorite big cat:  the cheetah.  We will highlight a few of the best places to find them in Africa, the best time to travel to maximise the chances of encountering them, and some general hints to make the most of your viewing and photography of these rare, special cats.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Destinations
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