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South Africa

Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

23rd February 2024

Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

We’re well into 2024 and all we can say is wow! The year started with a bang and it hasn’t stopped. We are fielding more inquiries for African travel than we probably ever have in 30+ plus years and so are our colleagues in the Safari Professionals of the Americas. It appears that international travel is fast getting back to pre-pandemic levels and then some. Thank you for your business!

Where is everybody going? If I pull up the next few trips which our guests will be embarking on, I see southern Tanzania (Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater), Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Actually, quite a few guests are heading to Botswana, mostly on itineraries combining it with Hwange National Park, Victoria Falls and even Lake Kariba. Also on the list? Madagascar and Namibia. A little later in the year Kenya starts to pop up, as well as Zambia, Uganda and Rwanda. Many of the Southern Africa trips include Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city’.

If I dig down a little deeper into the itineraries, I notice several of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties there. These are places where we’d personally be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives.

In no particular order, here are a few:

MalaMala Game Reserve, Sabi Sand

MalaMala is the 800-lb gorilla of the safari properties in the Sabi Sand reserve. Stay three or four nights here and you will see the ‘Big Five’ mammals and a lot more. Perhaps even the ‘Magnificent Seven:’ lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo, African painted dog and cheetah. Few places in Africa present such a splendid buffet of wildlife photography moments. You really, really want to see leopards walking around in broad daylight? MalaMala’s the spot.

Jabulani Safari

Jabulani is about as multifaceted as it gets in the luxury safari lodge category. It starts with reliably good game-viewing – of course. Mix in an extraordinary elephant experience, with a chance to interact with (hand-feed and touch) two or three of the older bulls of the Jabulani herd, being Jabulani, Sebakwe or Somopane. And top it off with the amazing conservation story attached to the property. It dates back to 1997 when the original co-owner, Lente Roode, saved a young elephant orphan (Jabulani) who had been abandoned in a mud pit. That tradition has been carried on to the present, with Jabulani Safari now owned and managed by Lente’s daughter Adine Roode. Layered on top of all of this, is Jabulani’s status as a Relais & Chateaux property. No matter how demanding your palate or your penchant for good wines – the chefs and the sommelier will be happy to see you.

Olonana Camp, Masai Mara

In a blog post following up on our short stay at Olonana a couple of years ago, I was highly complimentary about the overall experience. One thing I did forget to mention? The hippos in the Mara River can be noisy when they greet each other early in the morning upon returning from their nightly feeding forays. So be sure to pack some earplugs. Something else which I could have made more clear: game drives from Olonana head into the Mara Triangle which is currently the best area in the entire Mara, also the best monitored in terms of vehicles per sighting. Driving through the Triangle in Nov. 2023 we were simply astonished at its beauty and abundant wildlife. A pride of lions right by the road, a martial eagle on its prey, a journey of giraffes in near perfect light – none of us could have scripted it any better.

Lewa Wilderness, Kenya

Is there a more ideal combination of place, people, experiences and hospitality than Lewa Wilderness in Kenya – or anywhere Africa – right now? Maybe one or two, but it is a super short list. The rooms, the wildlife, the activities – it’s superlatives piled on superlatives. It even extends to the wildlife. There are zebras and giraffes in many parts of Africa, but they’re not Grevy’s zebras or reticulated giraffes. Or beisa oryx. These superb – and in some cases endangered – regional endemics are easily seen on game drives from Lewa Wilderness. Lewa is also one of the best places in East Africa to see both white and black rhinos in their natural state with their horns intact.

Take a 48-hour virtual safari with us at Lewa.

Chitabe Camp, Botswana

Absolutely the best game viewing likely anywhere in Africa is happening at Chitabe in northern Botswana, day after day, right now – and for the foreseeable future. I receive a daily WhatsApp ‘Chitabe Frame a Day’ message from the camp with the latest game viewing photographs and it is a stream of leopards, cheetahs, lions, painted dogs, hyenas, and quite often, interaction between some of these. Lots of action. And all with not having to drive very far; the concession is one of the smaller ones in Botswana, so you could be on to something special within 15 minutes or so out of camp.

The Belmond Mt. Nelson Hotel, Cape Town

The ‘Nellie’ or the ‘Pink Lady’ as it is affectionately known, is a Cape Town institution. Its beautiful palm-lined entrance way and light salmon pink exterior are timeless, dating back more than 100 years. The rooms and suites have all been updated as have the common areas. Spend at least three nights because there’s a lot to see and do beyond exploring the city and the Cape peninsula. The high tea at the Nellie is as good as it gets; it has a great pool (two of them) and gym, and be sure to ask the concierge to book a table at the Nelson’s Eye restaurant one night. It’s an experience. What really sets Mt. Nelson apart from any other Cape Town city hotel are its grounds and the gardens. It’s like staying in a not-so-small private park right in the middle of Cape Town – which makes it an ideal companion to a safari trip, either before or after.

Check out all of our favorite hotels in Cape Town here.

If any of these properties look like spots you too would wake up happy in, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

27th December 2023

Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

South Africa’s ‘City of Gold’ – Johannesburg – is widely referred to as Joburg or sometimes Jozi for short. You can even use ‘Egoli’ which means ‘place of gold.’ For those in the know, the city has become more than simply an overnight stop between flights. Johannesburg has been described as ‘the new cool capital of the Southern Hemisphere.’ Done the right way, it is a destination which merits a minimum two night stay.

Joburg is the financial capital of Africa, a complex combination of first and third world cities, vibrant and alive with art, fashion and design. It is definitely ‘the’ city to explore to get real insight into the soul of South Africa. But the city is also vast and difficult to navigate, so it is best done with a professional guide.

Most visitors end up staying in Sandton or Rosebank or somewhere in the northern suburbs or close to the airport. That’s ok, as long as you don’t confuse business centers like Sandton and Rosebank – with their business hotels and shopping malls – with the city itself. Downtown and in the areas closer to the center of the city is where it all happens: the street life, the architecture, art installations, food & drinks, graffiti – the rough edges which make it alive and interesting.

Having lived and worked in Johannesburg for several years I will admit to having a soft spot for it. For one thing, the weather is pretty much perfect. Cool in the winter but hardly ever below freezing, and never too hot in summer, with maximums around 85F. The city has a somewhat undeserved reputation for being ‘dangerous’ but in reality it is not dissimilar to most large cities anywhere in Africa – and beyond. Potentially dangerous if you stray into the wrong place at the wrong time. Otherwise just like anywhere else.

In an attempt to stay somewhat up to date with conditions, trends, ‘new’ places to see and visit and to revisit some favorite spots, I periodically venture out in Johannesburg, accompanied by a professional driver-guide. Which is the proper way to do it, and which we recommend for our guests.

Constitution Hill

This last November, Kathy and I did a day tour with a driver-guide from Jarat Tours and a step-on guide – James Delaney from Jo’burg Gurus. We revisited Constitution Hill, where visitors can witness and learn about some of the harsh conditions and regulations which prisoners from the apartheid era had to endure. Many men and women were incarcerated within its walls during its 100-year history and it is sobering to reflect on the humiliations and injustices to which its inmates were subjected. Despite all that, there is an air of renewal and promise in the visit as well when you enter and look around the Constitutional Court (South Africa’s supreme court). Many of the bricks used in the construction of the highest court of the land came from the now-demolished Awaiting Trial Block, part of the old prison complex.    

A bit later, we drove to Maboneng – a revitalized neighborhood – where we met our guide, James Delaney, over a cup of coffee. Maboneng, the adjacent Jewel City and nearby graffiti hotspots make for interesting observations of an African city in transition. Several areas have been creatively converted from abandoned warehouses or office blocks to vibrant districts with street art murals, African craft traders, good coffee and people watching.

We walked around the area for a bit, checking out a couple of studios, shops, and restaurants, before strolling over to the Jewel City area. We observed some interesting graffiti and wall art and enjoyed a brief chat with some of the locals. It was refreshing and insightful to be around ‘regular’ people in South Africa and to just be a bystander in an area where Joburg residents were going about their business.  This is of course not the case in the safari properties where guests meet and interact with mostly professional hospitality staff.

Victoria Yards

Our next stop was Victoria Yards where James Delaney has his art studio. Just 20 minutes from Johannesburg airport, this 100-year-old complex of Victorian-era industrial buildings (originally a steam laundry) has become home to a variety of artists, teachers, learners and other creative enterprises. I was immediately captivated by the red brick buildings contrasting with the bright green vegetable gardens and fruit trees. I soon realized that there’s quite a bit to see and do at Victoria Yards. Currently, Victoria Yards has more than 50 tenants which include artists, crafters, ceramicists, clothes makers, furniture designers and a jeweler – and on a tour you can meet the people making these inspiring African creations. Well-known artists including James Delaney and Blessing Ngobeni, and fashion designer Tshepo all have studios here.

Victoria Yards has a coffee shop with bakery, a sorbet shop, pizza, and a fish & chips restaurant which we will definitely try the next time we are there. Our advice? Take your time, support the local economy and pick up some gifts before your next flight. Kathy bought a couple of Shwe bags, a steal at about US$10 for a small bag, and up to US$25 for a bigger size. Otherwise just slow down and have a snack in this gentle setting. There’s a craft gin distillery and bar on the premises as well.

Victoria Yards is in an old suburb of Joburg (on the border of Bertrams and Lorentzville) close to downtown, on the edge of some rough neighborhoods, but it is a safe enclave. The surrounding disadvantaged community benefits directly from opportunities created there. Victoria Yards also has a school for local children on the premises and many community projects. We think it is ideal for American guests who have a few hours to kill either on their day of arrival or before their flight back. From Victoria Yards we went to 44 Stanley for lunch. It’s likewise a great spot, similar to Victoria Yards (same developer) but more retail focused. 44 Stanley – which is in Braamfontein Werf – is a collection of light industrial buildings set amid picturesque courtyards with pretty greenery. The mostly boutique stores offer unique goods, from local designer labels to ceramics, furniture and Joburg mementos.

The Wilds

Facing the daunting prospect of a 16-hour flight commencing later that day,  a stroll in The Wilds – a pocket park right on the edge of downtown Johannesburg – was just what the doctor ordered. For many years The Wilds was a ‘no go,’ crime-ridden area. No more. All thanks to the effort of James Delaney and the thousands of Joburg volunteers inspired by him. The results of years of restoration and upkeep, including a huge sculpture installation which led to more and more public involvement, has turned The Wilds into a delightful spot to visit. The sizable area, mostly encompassing large hillsides planted with South African flora, is beautifully maintained and safe, with people enjoying picnics on a nice warm Jo’burg summer day. The Wilds nature reserve is just minutes from the inner city, but you’ll feel like you’re far away. There are many sculptures, great views of the Joburg city skyline – and walking is great for the body and mind, even if you don’t have a long flight scheduled. 

James Delaney is a contemporary painter and printmaker with a myriad of other interests, hobbies and passions. From designing parks and safari lodges to marketing and photography, among others. With his diverse interests and experience gained while traveling the world (more than 53 countries including regular annual visits to New York City), and his entertaining conversational style, James is the ideal guide on a spontaneous ‘let’s see what happens next’ tour incorporating some of his favorite spots in Jo’burg. You can find James Delaney’s art studio at Victoria Yards in Lorentzville, Space No: 8G2 (Victoria Yards is open 9am to 5pm on weekdays; 10am to 5pm on Saturdays; 10am to 4pm on Sundays). Follow him on Instagram @delaneyartist, or visit his website at delaney.co.za

James’ brother Simon Delaney – an attorney in Jo’burg – is also a part time guide with Jo’burg gurus and he is the person for guests who want to delve a bit deeper in the struggle against  apartheid and its aftermath, and specifically the Mandela experience.  

For more information about our custom trips to Southern Africa which often include a day or two in Johannesburg, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

17th August 2023

Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

We first heard the lion roaring around 9 pm on our first night at MalaMala Camp in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, just back in our room #4 after dinner, in late July. The roaring was close. How close? Close enough for the sound to easily penetrate the solid lodge wall and loud enough to be heard above water filling a tub. It was loud. 

Kathy and I looked at each other with a ‘yes that’s exactly what I think it is’ expression and dropped whatever we were doing. We have heard lions roaring in many settings over the years but it arrests us every time. More so than bird calls or hyenas cackling or zebras braying or wildebeest grunting – a lion roaring is the ultimate sound of Africa. 

We walked to the front patio door, opened it – but not all the way – and peered out into the darkness. The lion roared again, even closer. Upon momentary reflection, we thought maybe it would be just fine to listen to it from inside the room. We closed the patio door. The lion called again, several times, the last roars fading away in the distance around midnight. 

Hearing a lion roaring outside our room was a fitting start to a safari and a big ‘welcome back’ to MalaMala at the end of an exciting first day at one of our favorite camps in all of Africa. The one to which we had sent more  guests than to any other safari property over the last 25 years.

MalaMala has a certain reputation to maintain. We tell prospective visitors that it offers the most consistently good viewing of Africa’s ‘Big Five’ mammals of any of the private reserves in South Africa. How come? Location, location, location. It takes just one look at a map of the Sabi Sand Reserve to see why MalaMala is the undisputed 800-lb gorilla of safari properties in the Sabi Sand. Located just to the west of the massive Kruger Park with only the Sand River separating the two, it is ideally situated to attract and retain wildlife year-round and more so in the dry season from about May through October and November. It is then – in the dry season – that MalaMala really shines and all because of the 20 km (13 miles) of the Sand River which runs right through the property. With no other source of freshwater anywhere remotely close,  the animals are drawn to the river as bees are to nectar. Twice a day, when MalaMala’s guests set out on morning and afternoon game drives in open 4-wheel drive vehicles, the guides head to the area bordering the western edge of the river.  With predictable results. Superb game-viewing, day in and day out, week after week. 

On this particular trip,  it started right away. Driving onto the property from Kruger Mpumalanga Airport at around one in the afternoon we were not expecting much.  Simply because many of the animals are usually resting up in the shade in  the middle of the day. Just not on this day at MalaMala. Within half an hour we had seen 10 different mammal species including elephants, giraffes and a leopard. A beautiful female leopard, right by the side of the dirt track, quite unperturbed by the presence of the vehicle. 

Of course, that was just the beginning. Over the next couple of days – with our energetic female guide Steff in charge – we enjoyed several spectacular wildlife sightings and experiences.

LIONS LIONS AND MORE LIONS

At the end of our first game drive, we came upon a big pride of lions, consisting of  six adult females with no fewer than nine cubs, varying in age from four to nine months. Initially, as the sun was setting over the western bank of the Sand River, we watched the cubs playing and mock-fighting. Predictably, young lions become playful and energetic towards the end of the day, endlessly running each other down, developing incipient hunting skills, starting to assert dominance, and generally just having a royal fun time.  

By the time the pride started to walk down to and then through the shallow stream of the Sand River, Steff had alerted me to the fact that this was a special photo opportunity. “This is not the Okavango Delta,” she said. “Sabi Sand guides don’t often see lions crossing a river or wading in the water, so be sure to get a good shot of it.”  

Photographic conditions were far from ideal, to put it mildly.  There was very little in the way of ambient light, making it near impossible to avoid blurring of moving subjects – in this case the tiny lions. And their moms. Also, we had just seconds to get it right. I was happy to come away with a few decent exposures which reflect the special setting and unusual occurrence of so many cubs walking through the shallow Sand River.  

LEOPARDS – MORE THAN ONCE

The Sabi Sand Reserve and MalaMala in particular is well known as a place to see leopards. The habitat – with lots of riverine bush and leopard-friendly thickets – is ideal. Remarkably, as many as 20 to 25 different leopards are seen at MalaMala every month, which is astonishing, considering their generally furtive, elusive behavior. Just as remarkable is the extent to which these gorgeous cats are habituated to the presence of the vehicles. They carry on with their activities seemingly oblivious to the presence of the cars.  

Over the years, we have been fortunate to observe several of MalaMala’s celebrated leopards, and this time was no different. On our first morning drive there, we bumped into a female leopard with two cubs, close to the airstrip. Later that same day we observed a female who appeared to be hunting. Topping both of those sightings was seeing a powerful male leopard that very night, right in camp, not 20 meters from the edge of the verandah, walking with a female. A mating pair of leopards in camp. That’s MalaMala!  

Currently there are five or six female leopards in MalaMala with babies, a veritable creche. It’s a harsh world out there and the offspring won’t all survive, but for the remainder of this season and beyond, visitors to MalaMala can be assured of a bounty of leopards just out there, just waiting to be seen. 

AFRICAN PAINTED DOG PUPPIES AT THE DEN

African painted dogs – also known as wild dogs – are special because they are rare and endangered. Seeing them anywhere, anytime, is considered a highlight of practically any safari. So we were thrilled to learn that a painted dog denning site had been discovered at MalaMala just weeks prior to our arrival, and that a handful of visits were being made to the site each day. MalaMala – and other responsible safari  camps all over Africa – take special precautions not to unduly interfere with and disrupt the area around a den. They are careful not to make too many tracks into the site, for fear of inadvertently leading hyenas or other predators right to the spot. Initially, no vehicles are allowed at all and it is only when the puppies reach an age of about 6 weeks or so that vehicles can approach. African painted dogs usually den in one of the driest months of the year – such as June or July – and often fairly close to water. The brood size is generally from 8 to 12.

On that Sunday morning Steff drove us all the way to the northern edge of the MalaMala property, eventually making a left turn off the boundary road and bumping slowly along a rudimentary track to the den site. Expectations were high. Observing an adult painted dog as we covered the last few meters bolstered our hopes. They’re here! Peering around the site, we counted two, three and eventually all six of the adult dogs making up the pack. Fascinating and beautiful as they were, we had puppies on our minds. There was no sight of them. The minutes ticked by. We had just about reached the end of our allotted 20 minutes (den site visits are purposefully kept short) and our hopes were starting to fade.  

Then it happened. Steff repositioned the vehicle and there they were: all nine of the pups – about 6 weeks old – running around the alpha female, their little white-tipped tails wagging furiously. Spellbound, we watched as the adorable creatures pounced on each other, play-fighting and starting to establish a pecking order, even as young as they were. Yet again photographic conditions were sub-par due to the distance and surroundings – the pups were mostly obscured in the grass – but this time it really didn’t matter. We were just thrilled to be able to see and experience them.  

A RARE CHEETAH SIGHTING – AND MORE

MalaMala is many things but it is not the best place in the Sabi Sand for cheetahs. The habitat isn’t ideal – more suitable for leopards – and the competition from other predators is fierce. Cheetahs are particularly sensitive to the presence of lions and hyenas, and that is probably the main reason why they avoid the area.  

All that being said, we did get lucky with a cheetah sighting on our second day at MalaMala. Lying up under a tree right off the boundary road with an adjacent private game reserve, the male cheetah lifted its head and looked in our direction. Bingo! We always consider ourselves to be extremely fortunate to find and see cheetahs due to their scarcity, their large territories and because they tend to move in and out of areas all the time. 

We had many other memorable sightings at MalaMala over the course of our short visit, including elephants – often seen in small herds in or on the banks of the Sand River – giraffes, buffaloes, the spectacular nyala antelope, zebras, wildebeest, and several other mammals.  

Birding at MalaMala – in fact anywhere in the Sabi Sand reserve – is always rewarding. Our single best sighting was a Verreaux eagle owl, which Kathy spotted high up in a tree on our way to a lion sighting. The owl was either yawning or trying to ‘unswallow’ something when I captured an image of it with its mouth wide open. 

IMPROVED FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND ALL-ROUND HOSPITALITY

There was a time when MalaMala was perhaps unfairly pegged as a property with great game-viewing, but with somewhat dated rooms, meals served buffet style and with drinks charged extra. Those days are long gone. Under its present community-owned management, MalaMala has undergone a significant, noticeable transformation in all things related to creature comforts. The rooms are superb, having undergone a major refashioning recently. With plenty of space and lots of light, the rooms are contemporary while retaining the ‘classic safari’ ambiance. Good interior lighting, effective air conditioning, plenty of privacy, significantly improved bathrooms with a large tub, shower and separate toilet, lots of storage space for your stuff, nice robes, well-stocked mini-bar: put it all together and you get an exceedingly comfortable, fun place to spend a few days. Slide open the doors to the verandah (just not when there’s lions roaring nearby) and there’s two chairs and a small table, all yours to enjoy the pretty view over the Sand River and any creatures which may be around.   

The food? Right off the bat, arriving late after a midday transfer from the airport, we were wowed by an excellent light lunch in the form of a garden fresh salad and a tuna sandwich. Both were delicious – and we had similar comments from a couple who arrived at about the same time as we did. None of the other meals fell short of this great first impression.  

In fact, each meal was memorable. Dinner on the first night featured carrot and ginger soup, an oxtail stew, salmon trout, and camembert in puff pastry. Brunch the following morning was – if anything – even more impressive with an a la carte line-up with as many as six ‘main course’ options ranging from a crumpet stack to a traditional safari breakfast, eggs benedict, and the special MalaMala salad. Our last night ended on a high note with the customary MalaMala boma experience, when guests are treated to an array of traditional grilled meats – fresh off the coals – and a range of side dishes and fresh salads. 

The bottom line? We’ve been sending guests to MalaMala since the 1990’s and our most recent visit will make it even easier to recommend the property. With a choice of three camps (MalaMala Camp, Sable Camp and Rattrays), the reserve caters for everyone from small groups and families to couples who desire a bit more privacy, and visitors who are keen to experience a more intimate, premier lodge. Space is already filling up fast for the high season months of 2024 so if you are thinking about a destination for next summer, don’t wait too long. Call our Houston office at 800-513-5222 or drop us a note on our website here.  

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When to go on safari

4th May 2023

When to go on safari

Just like with so many other things, inflationary trends have been affecting the safari space for several years now and we are anticipating increases of between 10% to as much as 18% for 2024, compared with the prices in effect for this year. Of course the best way to avoid any increases is to travel before the higher prices come into effect.  

Short of that, there are two main drivers of safari prices which can help you in the quest for an affordable yet high-quality African safari.  The two factors are place and season. Every safari destination in Africa has one or two prime locations and a handful of properties which command top dollar rates, particularly in the high demand season from about June through October. At that time of the year – in the prime safari areas – it is simply a matter of supply and demand and with as few rooms as they have available, prices can and do reach eye-watering levels.  

However, if you start looking for a trip at a different time and in a different place, the picture changes dramatically. You can go on safari in countries like Zimbabwe and Zambia at the peak of their high season and enjoy a fantastic trip which will be half the cost of a comparable trip in a country with more name recognition or a more established reputation. Likewise, the difference between high season and shoulder season pricing can be significant, with often only minor differences in the experience.  

The best prices are to be found for travel in the low demand season. Off-season travel in Africa can be immensely satisfying for visitors who can handle some heat and high humidity, and perhaps a thunderstorm or two. A little bit of discomfort is more than offset by the abundance of baby animals, the birds in breeding plumage, the lush, green surroundings, stunning sunsets and sunrises and by not having so many other people around.  

Here are our top recommendations for an African safari which will tick all the boxes: lots of animals, plenty of diversity, excellent guiding – at an affordable price.

SOUTH AFRICA AND NAMIBIA

South Africa is a veritable ‘world in one country’ with diversity that is rivaled only by Kenya. It has several excellent wildlife areas, most of which are malaria-free including the Eastern Cape, Waterberg and Madikwe. South Africa’s greater Kruger Park area has some of Africa’s best all-round safari camps in areas where the ‘Big Five’ mammals are seen practically every day of the year, week in and week out.  

Namibia leans more in the direction of a ‘desert and dune’ experience but the wildlife viewing in places such as Etosha in the north, the Waterberg Plateau, Damaraland and even on the edge of the Skeleton Coast such as along the Hoanib River, can be excellent. Namibia also has remarkable cultural diversity and a strong conservation ethos.

What is it that combines these two countries in my list of attractive safari propositions for the near future? The value of the South African Rand, of course. Hovering consistently around ZAR 18 to the US dollar and not likely to strengthen rapidly any time soon, the shrinking Rand creates excellent safari deals for dollar-wielding travelers. Not only in South Africa itself but also in neighboring Namibia whose currency – the Namibia dollar – is pegged at the same value as the South African Rand. 

SOUTH AFRICA TRIP IDEAS

There are a myriad of trip combinations which can be anchored by South Africa. It’s always a good idea to start your South Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city.’ Enjoy the local sights, two of which rank in Africa’s most celebrated natural wonders – Table Bay and Table Mountain. A little bit adventurous? Try the Platteklip hike up to the summit of Table Mountain and take the cable car trip down. Be sure to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (it’s a jewel), check out the endemic African penguins (Africa’s only penguin species) at Boulders Beach and take the funicular to the viewpoint at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.  

From Cape Town, fly to the greater Kruger Park area and spend a week on safari in a lodge of your choice – to fit your budget – in a private game reserve adjacent to the park. There are many options to choose from in areas like the Sabi Sand Reserve, Timbavati, Manyeleti and Thornybush. All of them are ‘Big Five’ reserves where you are likely to see elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and buffaloes over the course of a few days. And a lot else besides, of course.  Advantages of traveling here rather than some other destinations? Mostly the ability to drive off-road which can get you closer to some of the smaller cats and other special sightings, and also the ability to drive after the sun is down for a chance to see some of the nocturnal animals.

Instead of, or in addition to the Kruger Park area, you may wish to include some time in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region which also has abundant wildlife. Private game reserves like Kwandwe, Kariega and Shamwari are located in extraordinarily beautiful landscapes, filled with green rolling hills and valleys and patches of riverine forest, scrub and woodland. A bonus? This area is malaria-free so is ideal for families with young children or anyone wanting to avoid having to use malaria prophylaxis.  

Two other attractive safari destinations in South Africa include the Waterberg and Madikwe regions, both of which are also in malaria-free areas. Of course, it is easy to travel from South Africa into any of the neighboring countries including Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia.

NAMIBIA TRIP IDEAS

Namibia is very much a ‘desert and dune’ destination, with the area around Sossusvlei with its giant red sand dunes being considered Namibia’s signature sight. So by all means spend a couple of days there and marvel at the scene of a white gravel plain with apricot dunes in the background, an azure blue sky and stark, semi-fossilized trees providing a focal point for the quintessential Namibia photograph. 

Of course from there you’d want to go on safari and find some of the country’s signature animals such as the gemsbok, black-faced impala, springbok and Damara dik-dik. Together with elephants, black and white rhino, and the big cats. All of these and more can be found in the greater Etosha National Park area to the north and elsewhere. A little beyond the regular safari circuit lies the Skeleton Coast National Park which we regularly include on Namibia trips, either by having guests spend a few days at a camp on the edge of the park or right inside it, or by doing a fly-in safari which whisks guests from one enigmatic spot to another. There’s a lot more to Namibia including the quaint town of Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay harbor with bird-laden estuaries and worthwhile marine excursions, and remote safari camps in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. This is where guests can embark on day safaris in search of the elusive black rhino, a successful day culminating with the guests approaching the black rhinos on foot from a safe and respectful distance. There will be a small team from Namibia’s successful ‘Save the Rhino’ Trust on hand to provide background information on the success of the program, and the challenges ahead. 

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

Zimbabwe and Zambia are two of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. Prospects for Zimbabwe’s tourism sector have taken a much more positive turn now that the country is fully in the post-Mugabe era. Despite having a superior safari product, the Zimbabwe properties are not able to command the stellar pricing of some of its competitors – notably Botswana – Which creates opportunities for visitors to enjoy a fantastic safari – very much comparable to that of Botswana – at literally 50% of the Botswana cost, in the high season months from June through October.

Zambia is perhaps just not as well known as it should be and its safari season is quite short with many of its camps in the South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue regions being closed for the rainy season from November through the end of March. None of this affects the safari experience in Zambia. In fact, a Zambia safari delivers a wonderful all-round experience with none of the congestion of some of its most popular rivals and at a much lower price point. Zambia has even shelved its visa entry fee of $50 per person.

For Zimbabwe, our associates Imvelo Safaris have some  dazzling specials for the low-demand season, with great savings for families traveling with children and single travelers. These include a stay 7/pay 5 offer from November 2023 through March 2024 (except for the holidays) and a free private guide and vehicle for groups of four or more. There’s more: children under 18 will be accommodated free of charge (park fees and transfers only) on any stay of three nights or longer, from January 1 through the end of April 2024. Victoria Falls, Hwange, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools: a Zimbabwe trip is filled with excitement, big game, lots of optional activities such as boating, fishing, and foot safaris – for less than you might anticipate.  

Most Zimbabwe itineraries include two or more of the areas below, in no specific sequence:  

Victoria Falls – usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls & perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi. The Falls are an awesome sight in April and May particularly – when the Zambezi is in flood stage – but they are always worth seeing from the Zimbabwe side (main falls).  

Hwange National park – This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of elephants, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs. So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana, or for that matter Kenya. Rhinos have been re-introduced to the Hwange area which now (again, as in the past) makes the park a ‘Big Five’ destination. There’s more. Hwange has a couple of very special antelopes not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally interesting roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and dozens of other families of birds. Hwange is an ideal park for walking safaris, mostly because of the proficiency of the Zimbabwe professional guides, who are at their best on foot, rifle in hand. 

Mana Pools – Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game and African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too. Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis due to the relatively high cost of flying there. However we do offer some trips which include flying at no or reduced cost. There is a minimum stay requirement. Mana Pools has a well-deserved reputation for being an ideal park for foot safaris.  

Lake Kariba – and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake. A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba is a superb addition to almost any Zimbabwe trip. Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible. I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake where elephants and other animals can often be seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.  

The Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe. This region of Zimbabwe is another one where rhinos can be observed in the wild. Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of SE Utah. It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes. This area is spectacular, particularly at sunset. It is easy to move on to Hwange National Park from the Matobos by road.

For Zambia, I can think of no better trip than a 10-night Zambia exploration with Classic Zambia, priced at about $6,500 per person sharing in May and June, increasing to just over $8,000 per person sharing for the high season months from July through October. This would be a fantastic safari combining two of Africa’s finest and wildest wildlife areas, Kafue and the Lower Zambezi. Please call or email for detailed information about these and other safari options.  

Zambia is a massive country and it should come as no surprise that it has several excellent safari areas, notably the South Luangwa National Park, the Lower Zambezi National Park and the Kafue region. None of these are heavily visited and the Kafue – which is much bigger than South Africa’s vast Kruger National park – attracts about one tenth of the number of visitors of the Kruger. 

The South Luangwa National Park is known for its walking safaris and the chance to see a wide variety of animals such as elephants, lions and leopards. On a recent trip there we witnessed a crocodile trying to rob a hyena of its prey. It was a spellbinding scene observed by just us. No other vehicle showed up over the entire 30 minutes or so we spent at the sighting.  

The Lower Zambezi National Park is another popular destination, offering river safaris on the Zambezi and the opportunity to see hippos, crocodiles and abundant birdlife. For the adventurous traveler, I would recommend a canoe safari in one of the backwaters off the main river. It can be an adrenaline-inducing experience gliding by several hippos, your natural apprehension being somewhat assuaged by the fact that you have an experienced guide in control of the canoe.  

The Kafue National Park is the largest park in Zambia and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including elephants, lions and cheetahs. Several small, remote camps in the Kafue are ideal for a ‘back to basics’ experience where what matters most is what happens outside the tent. It is all about the wilderness experience, about observing the wildlife in their most natural setting, and being able to do it essentially with just your guide and the few other people in the vehicle with you.  

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Cape Town area sightseeing

3rd November 2021

Cape Town area sightseeing

It’s hard to find fault with Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘Mother City’. After all, it is one of the prettiest cities in the world. It starts with Table Mountain as the perfect backdrop, Table Bay in the foreground, the Atlantic Ocean, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, the captivating Victoria & Alfred Waterfront with its working harbor and yacht basin – and builds from there. In every direction, there is something interesting to see and to experience, from penguins to pedigree wines, endemic fynbos plant species to fantastic restaurants.

Cape Town is diverse, it’s exciting and it’s different.  Read most of the street signs in the downtown area and you could easily imagine being in Amsterdam.  Many buildings, statues and monuments harken back to the city’s earlier days under first Dutch and then English rule.  Cape Town appeals to any and every traveler, no matter what their specific interests or passions may be.  Wine aficionados, foodies, ‘culture vultures’, exercise and adventure junkies, gardening enthusiasts,  amateur naturalists, photographers at any level, birdwatchers, hikers and climbers, sailing enthusiasts, beach people, artistic types, history buffs, artists – there is something of interest for the  entire spectrum of visitors.  That applies to residents as well, naturally.

Listen to the people around you in Cape Town and you’ll begin to appreciate the diversity and complexity of the city’s make-up: you’ll hear a lot of Afrikaans spoken – and much of that in a distinctive local dialect. English is widely spoken too, and a visitor can rely on getting around and finding assistance and answers to questions, in English. In communities like Langa and Nyanga, the predominantly African inhabitants speak mostly Xhosa. Beyond that, you will hear smatterings of European languages like German, Dutch and French in places like Sea Point, Hout Bay and elsewhere. English with a distinctive American accent? At any of the V & A Waterfront hotels.

Did I mention that it is difficult to find negatives about the city? To be sure, there are a few. The winter months, notably June, July & August can be dismal as the city has a winter rainfall climate, unlike practically the entire rest of South Africa. Where the winters can be cold, but dry. So only and mostly in the Southwestern Cape can it be cold, rainy and windy – often simultaneously – in the winter months. Winter storms can be intense with high winds and sometimes heavy rain, but mostly temperatures are moderate (with highs barely in the 50’s F) with light rain and mist.

Cape Town’s traffic issues are nowadays just as bad as those in the much larger metropolis of Johannesburg. Driving out of the city in rush hour – particularly on Fridays – can be a total bear. Of course, being a visitor, you can mostly avoid traveling during peak traffic hours. Unless your flight to your next destination departs in the early evening. In that case, allow yourself plenty of time to get to the airport. Cape Town’s formerly excellent local rail service has fallen on hard times and in general the public transport services are negatively affected by crime, vandalism and protests. Fortunately Uber is ubiquitous and cheap so by all means use it to get around town. Your hotel or guest house can also assist you in arranging a permitted taxi if you prefer that option.

Cape Town can get rather too busy for some people, from about mid-December through early January. During the high holiday season it is jam-packed with up-country visitors (look for the telltale Gauteng license plates) and with international visitors from all over the world and the rest of Africa. It can be tough to get into the better restaurants, there is a huge line at the lower cable car station, getting in and out of the Waterfront area can be a mission, and popular tourist sites like the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Kirstenbosch and the Boulders Beach penguin colony and many of the wineries, are crowded. If you are able to travel either before or after the holiday season, do it.

So what are our recommendations for visitors for things to do and see in the space of a few days in Cape Town? Here are some of them:

IN AND AROUND THE CITY
Take the revolving cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain. Do this at the first best opportunity, whenever the mountain is ‘open’ and the cable car is operating. Don’t wait until your last day as conditions sometimes change within hours and the cable car operation shuts down when the wind velocity is too high or because of poor visibility. Weather-related shutdowns can sometimes stretch into a couple of days, so drop whatever else you have planned, and go up the mountain if and when it is open. Early mornings are best to avoid the crowds. Definitely consider hiking either up or down – more about that later in the blog.

Visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – it is a jewel. Don’t miss the Boomslang canopy walk, the Cycad amphitheatre with dinosaur sculptures, and the Protea garden. If you have half a day for this, that would be ideal, but if all you have are two or three hours, it would still be worth it.

Take a guided Peninsula tour including Hout Bay, Chapman’s Peak Drive, Kommetjie, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (take the funicular to the lookout point), and the African Penguins at Boulders. If you have time, a guided half day City Tour is also most enjoyable. You may prefer to take a tour on the ‘Hop on Hop off’ City sightseeing bus.

Visit the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for some interesting walks along the breakwater, shopping (of course), visiting one or more of the huge variety of restaurants and pubs, and check out the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Set aside an hour or two for a stroll – or better yet a run – along the Sea Point Promenade. There’s beautiful vistas over the ocean, the people-watching is equally intriguing and you’ll get some exercise. You can start from the V & A Waterfront and make your way up as far as Bantry Bay, if you are not pressed for time.

Make some time for Cape Town’s beautiful beaches such as Clifton, Muizenberg and Camps Bay, particularly in the warmer summer months from October through April.

Stroll the Company’s Garden area where there are several worthwhile museums; the ‘top’ entrance is just across the street from the Mt. Nelson Hotel. Which – incidentally – has the best high tea in Southern Africa, if you’re feeling peckish.

Get your cultural card stamped with a visit to the Zeitz MOCAA Museum (Silo Hotel); Irma Stern Museum, Iziko South African (Natural History) Museum, SA National Gallery, SA Jewish Museum, or District Six Museum.

Visit Robben Island by ferry boat. While this is ordinarily a worthwhile trip, we have misgivings about recommending it due to perennial management problems. Ferries are known to run late, are canceled last minute and the like. So best to gather some local (up to date) intel on the status of the operation, before you buy your ticket.

In search of a bargain or a local curiosity? Browse the Long Street and GreenMarket Square markets – this can be done in conjunction with visiting the Company’s Garden.

Visit the Castle of Good Hope Museum; be sure to take in the ‘changing of the guard’ and visit the William Fehr art exhibit inside the building, as well as the Cape Military Museum.

Take a guided walking tour of the The Bo-Kaap area  for colorful homes and Cape Malay cooking.

OUTSIDE OF CAPE TOWN:
By all means embark on a guided Cape winelands tour. Franschhoek, about a 45 minute drive from Cape Town, is the most interesting of the winelands towns but Stellenbosch and Paarl have their own appeal and there are superb wineries everywhere. Enjoy lunch with a view at Delaire Graff Estate between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The Cape Fold mountains – which dominate much of the winelands – together with the vineyards and signature Cape Dutch architecture make this a picturesque area well worth visiting even for visitors who are not at all into wines.

Take an uber or taxi ride from Cape Town to Kalk Bay village for lunch at the Brass Bell; or include it in your touring arrangements.

Visit Constantia Valley near Cape Town for some of the oldest wineries in the area, such as the imposing Groot Constantia; be sure to leave some time for the Norval Foundation Art Gallery, opposite the US Embassy.

Take a trip to the 12 Apostles Hotel for sunset drinks – it’s the perfect spot to see the sun settle over the Atlantic Ocean.

SOUTHERN CAPE (HERMANUS AREA)
Travel to Gansbaai for shark diving. Presently, the great white sharks are not around in big numbers, but there are several other resident shark species to be seen. The nearby town of Hermanus is known for the ‘marine big five’ which include the South African Fur Seal, the Southern Right Whale, African Penguin, Great White Shark and Bottle-nosed Dolphin. The town of Hermanus becomes a mecca of whale-watching when the Southern Right Whales are around, from about June through November. October is whale month so schedule your visit then, if you want to be sure of seeing these giant creatures – and their little ones – breach or simply frolic around.

TABLE MOUNTAIN AND OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
Table Mountain dominates Cape Town in every way; it is the city’s signature natural feature and no visit to Cape Town is truly complete without involving the mountain in some way or other. While it is perfectly ok to travel to the summit of Table Mountain on the Cable Car, we would recommend adding at least one activity involving a hike on the lower slopes of the mountain – or all the way to the top.

We work with a simply fantastic hiking guide in Cape Town – Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers – for Table Mountain hiking and nature walks.

Lauren recommends doing a hike as one of the first things, after arriving in Cape Town. It really helps to ground you, it gets the cobwebs out after the long flights and helps you feel awake, alive and ready for the rest of your Cape Town stay. Lauren says that many guests who hike with her at the end of their trip tell her how they wish they’d done it at the beginning as they learned so much that was useful for the rest of their stay.

If you arrive sometime in the morning into Cape Town you could do an afternoon hike, or alternatively the next morning or afternoon. If you want to incorporate Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Lauren could take you around the gardens for an easy walk of 45 minutes to an hour to see the highlights. From there, you would then hike up to the contour path and over and back down to the gardens. This hike only goes one third to one quarter of the way up that (Eastern) side of the mountain so it is not intense but you would get an idea and feeling of the mountain and nature around. This generally takes 3-4 hours to complete.

Other options are:

Pipe Track:
A truly beautiful +/- 3 hour route (also only going one third of the way to the top of Table Mountain), very quiet and peaceful and with lots of interesting plants to see, touch & even taste along the way. The turn-around point is at a cave-like ‘Overhang’ where hikers spend a few minutes just taking in the views and enjoying a snack and drinks.

Lions Head:
An amazing +/- 3 hour route, adventurous and beautiful. The only drawback is that it can be busy with lots of people on it, particularly on Saturday and Sunday. On either of those days, be prepared to be picked up from your hotel really early (5:00 am) in order to avoid the foot traffic.

If you want to do something a bit more challenging, then the Platteklip Gorge hike is the least challenging of the hikes which take you all the way to the top of the mountain. Anybody who is moderately fit and without major mobility or other medical issues can do it. About 3 to 4 hours, from the base of the mountain to the summit. Platteklip is not the most scenic of the various hiking options, but a great hike nonetheless. Once it opens up (last third of the hike) there are some fabulous views. This hike is also extremely popular so again, an early start is advisable. It is mostly exposed to the sun so be prepared for that.

Experienced hikers may want to tackle Nursery Ravine or Skeleton Gorge (from Kirstenbosch) or India Venster. Skeleton Gorge is beautiful with many small ‘box ravine’ pockets, seemingly with their own micro-climate. The hike is well-protected from the elements including the sun, with long stretches through Afro-montane forest. It is a long hike, particularly if your final destination is the upper cable car station. India Venster demands a bit more in the way of strength and agility, and I probably wouldn’t advise it for first-timers. A fear of heights would be a disqualifier as well. Otherwise it is an absorbing, fun hike and you will look back on it with a great sense of achievement. I have personally done all of these hikes so feel free to call me or email me if you have any questions.

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On becoming a citizen of the USA

2nd July 2021

On becoming a citizen of the USA


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On becoming a citizen of the USA

Together with 1,995 other smiling persons of 114 different nationalities I became a US citizen, one Friday in July, now 13 years ago, here in Houston. Close enough to Independence Day to feel the spirit.  Naturalization was a long 14-month process which ended with a very short yet memorable ceremony when we all raised our right hands and swore allegiance to the constitution, the flag and the laws of the United States.


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Thomas Jefferson would have loved to have been there. I bet he would have been surprised at the diversity and thrilled to see so many young, vibrant people among the new citizens. I am very grateful and honored to have become a citizen of the United States of America, the greatest country in the world.


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Just 10 days later (of course I paid extra for an express application), I was the proud bearer of my first, brand new US Passport with 25 crisp, clean visa pages just waiting to be stamped by surly immigration officials all over Africa.  And so they were.  It didn’t take me long to start using the distinctive dark blue book with the seal of the United States embossed in gold, on the outside front cover.


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Paging through the old expired passport now, brings back fond memories of places, events, great safaris and friends, old and new.  Maun- Botswana, Livingstone – Zambia, Johannesburg – South Africa, Entebbe – Uganda,  Nairobi – Kenya, Kilimanjaro – Tanzania, Victoria Falls – Zimbabwe, Brazzaville – Republic of Congo, Kigali – Rwanda.  It reads like the departures board in many an African airport.  Each entry and exit recorded and noted, much like the memories still firmly lodged in my brain.


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Some trips play better in the theater of your mind, than they do as live events.  I had to look carefully to find the stamp for Antananarivo – Madagascar.  It was hidden in a corner of one of the 26 visa pages which were later added to the passport.  Numbered A through X.  There is the mark made in Tana, on page E, almost lost among seven other stamps.  The vivid recollections I have of that Madagascar trip will never be crowded out by something else though.  Just to get the passport stamped in the first place, was an adventure.  A scrum of people descending upon a small booth, helter-skelter with not even a semblance of a line.  The Tana traffic. Being confronted by the all too visible signs and depressing side-effects of poverty.


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Fortunately, when these not so great memories swirl up into my live thoughts, they are quickly dispelled by visions of happy children, fascinating lemurs and so many other – equally pleasant – things.  Such as finding and seeing several of the most amazing birds, the likes of which I may never see again, such as the pitta-like ground roller and the long-tailed ground roller.  As clear and vivid in my recollection as if it happened yesterday. I think it is time for my current passport to take a trip to the ‘Eighth Continent’.

Ellerman House


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Becoming a citizen of a country other than the land of your birth, is not easy.  At least it wasn’t, for me.  I likely would have been content to continue living in the USA as a resident alien.  Until 9/11 happened.  The tragic events of  September 2001 started me on the path to citizenship, evoking – as they did – powerful emotions about having one’s country invaded, as it were, in a brutal and merciless assault.  The USA wasn’t ‘my’ country then – but it sure felt like it.


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By the time I started taking the final steps to become a US citizen, my bonds with South Africa had already become tenuous at best. I’ve always tried to follow current affairs over there but I couldn’t pick the members of the cabinet out of a police line-up if my life depended on it.  Despite my enduring love for the sport of cricket, I had lost touch with the game, other than listening to an occasional BBC test cricket broadcast, usually England versus Australia, for the Ashes.


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Reluctantly sometimes, but inevitably in the long run, I had to surrender to the effects of time and place.  In my new home  people played baseball, not cricket.  So I adjusted.  By the time our two sons were playing baseball at college level, I knew when to anticipate a bunt attempt, and when not to say anything about a no-hit situation. The infield fly rule?  Give me another few years.

Legendary Lodge


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I realized that the ground had shifted under me, on a visit to South Africa a couple of years prior to becoming an American citizen.  All week I had felt different. It was a struggle to drive on the left-hand side of the road, and the issues of the day were distressing. Rampant corruption. Crime seemingly out of control. Unscrupulous, kleptomaniacal politicians. And then it came to a head. I was standing in the Hyperama, a gigantic grocery store in the Menlyn Shopping Center on the east side of Pretoria, when it dawned on me that I had become a stranger in my own country. I was stocking up on some items that were hard to find in the US, such as Redro fishpaste (an acquired taste!), Marmite, Crunchies (still a favorite), Provita crackers, some mealie meal and Rooibos tea.


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As I moved from aisle to aisle, my sense of alienation became more and more palpable. I eavesdropped to snatches of conversation between other shoppers, and couldn’t relate to a word of it. I looked around in vain for a familiar face, something, anything to re-connect me to this place that I once called home. It only got worse. I struggled to understand the cashier’s ‘Seffrican’ English, and the money may as well have been Roubles for as much trouble as I had with the denominations and especially the coins. Earlier, I had no idea how to respond to a ‘car minder’ who gratuitously offered to watch over my car in the parking lot. Clearly, I was no longer from there.


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This was baffling and disconcerting. Was I not the same person who had lived just down the road for several years? Who had had two children born in this city, who had driven myself down these self-same streets a thousand times? Of course I was, but everything else had changed and I was not a part of that process of transformation. My South Africa was gone forever. It is not easy to lose one’s country, but that is what happened to me that September day in Pretoria.


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Looking back on it now, becoming a US citizen helped me to put all that behind me and take the next step towards becoming a full participant in the affairs of my new country.  The years have come and gone.  More than thirty since we moved from South Africa to the USA.  And thirteen great years as a citizen, just like Kathy and the boys.   Together with them, I hope to fill up a few more passports with stamps – and memories on the side.  Happy Independence Day!

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