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Masai Mara

Kenya: What a Difference the Equator Makes

3rd April 2026

Kenya: What a Difference the Equator Makes

If you’ve read some of my older blog posts about Kenya, you’ll know that I am a big fan – for many reasons – but mostly because of the country’s incredible diversity. From the point of view of a photographer of any level of competency and experience – or anyone who wants to light up social media with a great image – Kenya is the shutter that keeps on clicking. 

Thinking back over many Kenya trips starting 30 years ago, these are some of the reasons which keep me going back again and again and recommending Kenya as the #1 option for a first, an only and a repeat safari.

The elephants

We’ve long been firm believers that any really good African safari itinerary should have at least one signature elephant experience. One day, one game drive, one elephant experience, one photograph which you will remember forever. To be sure, Kenya has more than just one area where the elephant experience will blow your socks off. 

Amboseli is one. It’s where I took what might still be my most liked elephant photo. One morning on a game drive from Tortilis Camp we were watching a herd of elephants move through the woodland. A herd of elephants moving down to the swamps, kicking up some dust, is always worth watching so we stopped. I soon had a 400mm lens pointed in their direction. 100 different photos of elephants walking in good light in Amboseli would all be nice shots, but none would have stood out.

Nothing would have distinguished any one of them from a 1,000 similar photos taken at Amboseli every day of the year. Except this time, something clicked. The matriarch paused for barely a second, and turned her massive head to check on the herd. It changed everything. When I later checked the images on the computer, this one and only this one stood out. It was not ‘just’ elephants walking. The one turned head created an arresting moment, an artfully captured scene. A scene which speaks volumes about elephants. About their herd behavior, how they instinctively protect their young and above all: who’s in charge.  

Another great Kenya elephant experience awaits visitors to Tsavo East, particularly in the dry season when small breeding herds kick up the telltale red Tsavo dust, creating drama and pathos. Even the most dispassionate of observers, analyzing the scene purely in terms of its photographic potential, cannot help but to be moved by the experience. It becomes impossible not to sense and empathize with the elephants’ barely suppressed distress. You cannot look away when their struggle for survival in this harsh environment is as  clear as if it were written in the Tsavo dust.  

Ideally I think everyone who comes back from a Kenya trip should have  a dozen or so of those once-in-a-lifetime elephant images locked away in memory. The baby orphan elephants being bottle-fed at Sheldrick in Nairobi. The startlingly white tusks of Amboseli’s swamp-feeding elephants – and their daily, dusty marches back into the woodlands. The unmistakable red clay colored elephants of Samburu, and their equally dusty Tsavo cousins. The joie de vivre of the young elephants being readied for reintroduction into the wilderness at the Sheldrick reintegration units at Ithumba and Galdessa. They’re all special, all precious and infinitely fascinating and you could spend a lifetime observing and admiring them and never tire of it. 

The mammal and bird diversity

In a single Kenya trip, you can observe and photograph as many as 45 different species of mammals and over 100 different kinds of birds. Among these, some standouts are three type of giraffes (Rothchilds, plains and reticulated giraffes), two species of zebras (Burchells and Grevy’s zebra), two different ostriches (common and Somali ostriches) and both white and black rhinos with their horns intact. Even if you spend just a week in Kenya, you’ll also see at least two, likely three different big cats – lions, cheetahs and leopards. Plus several other predators including spotted hyenas, black-backed jackals, and with a bit of good fortune, a sighting of bat-eared foxes, servals or caracals.  

Kenya’s mammals and birds are generally easy to see, often present in large numbers in open terrain such as the grassy plains of the Masai Mara. Where it is not unusual to see as many as six or seven different large mammals all at the same time. 

I personally look forward to every return trip to Kenya knowing that so much of what I will be seeing and experiencing will be new and exciting. Every time. It’s a slightly different recipe, but still your favorite dish. Your most beloved opera with a particularly callous Pinkerton. All the same glorious notes and melodies but fresh like newborn gazelles finding their feet. 

Is there a best and definitive cheetah sighting? Can you ever see enough giraffes in one tower? Is one super tusker very much like another one? No, no and no. There’s no magic potion for reverse aging but seeing Origins Safaris’ Lydia Mwangi’s big, warm smile upon exiting Nairobi Airport after a long transatlantic flight makes me feel a lot younger every time. Which is why Kathy and I will be returning to Kenya again – soon. And why I think everyone should consider traveling there.

The people and an efficient tourism infrastructure 

In a world where crossing international borders has become more than just a nuisance factor, Kenya is the ‘easy button’ option for a safari. You arrive on one international flight on day 1 and leave on another one on day 12 or whatever. Visiting three very different areas, north and south of the equator, all without having to take even one additional commercial flight with all its attendant irritations and inconveniences.

A well functioning tourism infrastructure may not be the sexiest reason to pick one safari destination over another but it may be the savviest. Losing hours and even days because of delayed or cancelled flights or having to spend hours on horrendously bad roads is not a feature of Kenyan safaris. Where it makes sense to drive (on transfers of not more than three hours or so) there are serviceable main asphalt roads. Where it doesn’t –  you fly. Safely and at a reasonable cost with first class charter operators like Safarilink.

In the 2025 Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards, Kenya was named the world’s friendliest country, scoring an impressive 98%. Voters highlighted Kenyan safari guides’ warmth, its welcoming culture and all-round hospitality. The poll confirmed what we’ve known all along. From the cabin crew on Kenya Airways to the chef at your safari camp, Kenyans positively, actively want you to have a great time in their country. Learn a few words and phrases of Swahili (start by rewatching the Lion King) and you will be making lifelong friends.

The equator 

Because of its  proximity to the equator, there’s not much difference in the duration of summer versus winter days in Kenya. Their longest summer day is only 9 minutes longer than their shortest winter day. Which results in no great swings between summer and winter temperatures. Also, many of the safari areas such as the Masai Mara, the Mt. Kenya area, the Aberdares and Laikipia/Lewa are at generally higher elevation with a reliable cooling effect. So it comes as no surprise that over the course of many trips to Kenya, we’ve rarely experienced any dreadfully hot or exceedingly cold days. Which makes it a  true year-round destination – outside of maybe a couple of months during the ‘long rains’ in March and April.  Just don’t be looking forward to even one long summer night on your Kenya trip. It’s not going to happen. It’s dark right around 7 pm – every day of the year. And it takes barely 25 minutes to go from broad daylight to dark night. 

In sharp contrast, Southern Africa’s higher latitude leads to distinct seasonal shifts. With extremely cold winters and scorching summers. Spend a few days in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park in late October and you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.  

Even so, Kenyan safari areas to the north or ‘above’ the equator, and in lower lying areas such as Tsavo East can be harsh, hot and dry at certain times of the year. Paradoxically, for photographers and visitors in general, this just adds to the appeal of the country. The invisible equatorial line creates a north and a south which can hardly be more different. North of the equator areas such as Samburu feature arid, rugged landscapes where several special endemic mammals such as  the reticulated giraffe and Grevy’s zebra can be observed, together with other arid-area specialties such as the peculiar gerenuk and the ubiquitous Kirk’s dikdik.  

By contrast, the predator-rich Masai Mara south of the equator offers iconic, vast grasslands which are  seasonally overrun by massive herds of wildebeest and zebra. The Great Migration. Sitting at the northern edge of the Serengeti plains, the Mara offers consistently good viewing of lions, leopards, and cheetahs. One of the reasons why we almost always schedule guests’ last few days on safari in the Mara. 

The wildebeest and zebra migration

Any seasoned East Africa tour operator or advisor knows better than to promise guests a migration experience. Even with the best laid plans the migration is a natural phenomenon which is largely weather-driven and as a result devilishly difficult to predict. In broad strokes we all know where the migration is likely to be at any specific time of the year but there’s just too many factors which can and does throw it off by weeks, or stop it in its tracks.   

When fortune smiles on you and you find yourself witnessing thousands of wildebeest and zebras spread out around you in a 360-degree arc, it can be magical. Even more so when you’re witnessing hundreds or even thousands of them plunging into a swollen river, risking life and limb just to get to the other side.  

As magical as the July–October migration can be, we’ve taken some of our best photographs around the time of the short rains in November. The Mara becomes green, textured, and alive and mornings can bring the most exquisite of photographic opportunities such as a rhino or a journey of giraffes emerging from a dense fog bank. From January through March, it’s the calving season – yet another gift for photographers.  

Jason and Katie are  just back from a long Kenya trip so send Jason an email at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com for fresh news and updates about conditions there, and for assistance planning your next trip there or elsewhere in East Africa.  

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Basecamp Mara, Kenya


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Basecamp Mara

Basecamp Mara, Kenya

Returning to Kenya’s Masai Mara is always exciting and so it was early last December when we arrived at Basecamp Mara in the Talek area, in the center of the Mara. As location goes, this is pretty much as good as it gets. During the wildebeest migration season from July through about October, the Talek area is grand central with easy access to several known river crossing points.


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Basecamp Mara

Our destination on the day – Basecamp Mara – is a tented camp which had gathered a measure of fame when former US president Barack Obama and his family spent time there when he was a US senator. If you ask for tent #9 you can rest your head in the same spot as the president of the United States once did.


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The Talek area is known for reliably excellent big cat sightings with lions, cheetahs and leopards being seen just about every day. Due to the high animal density, visitors can expect to see quite a few other vehicles as well. This is high octane safari with a competitive edge. Not for shrinking violets. What we would suggest is spending a few days here in addition to several days in one of the private Mara conservancies like Naboisho.  In the conservancies there is a strict limit to the number of vehicles at any sighting, there is more freedom to drive off-road and at night and the pace is generally just a bit more relaxed.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Basecamp Mara

Inside the National Park conditions can and sometimes do deteriorate into a melee with too many vehicles at big cat sightings and unethical drivers getting in the way of animals or simply approaching them too closely.  Such behavior is frowned upon by the professional guides. It is most prevalent in the busiest time of the year, during the annual migration season.  So if you can travel during shoulder or off-season – such as in early November or May – you will likely be spared the worst of these transgressions.


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Basecamp Mara

Basecamp Mara is a moderately priced tented camp situated on the banks of the Talek River. The large, heavily wooded site easily accommodates a total of 17 fairly basic but perfectly adequate tented rooms, an arts and crafts center, a dining room & bar and a separate reception area – with WiFi.  Initially the reception area doesn’t make a great first impression but once you start exploring the remainder of the grounds, the camp definitely grows on you.


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On our game drive into the Masai Mara that afternoon we found the famous coalition of five male cheetahs. They are notorious for taking down much larger prey species than a solitary cheetah would even dare to attempt. Such as fully grown topis (a medium sized antelope, similar to a tsessebe) and wildebeest. We watched the five boys for quite a while, hoping that they would take more than a passing interest in a nearby herd of topis.  Unfortunately they did not appear to be in a hunting mode, so we let them be. Driving back down towards the Talek River paid off quickly, when our capable guide Derrick found a solitary male leopard, resting on a small mound.


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We spent a good amount of time observing this impressive animal – and I  got some nice close ups showing his powerful neck and penetrating glare.  Reluctantly, we had to return to camp.  The light had started to fade and the clock ran out on us; all visitors have to be off the roads by sunset.  It was a fantastic start to our Mara safari! 

Dinner back in camp was excellent:  a tasty tomato soup to start and a choice of steak or stuffed turkey. We had lots of fodder for conversation already after barely half a day in the Mara.


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We were up early the next morning for yet another game drive  in the Mara. Guests at Basecamp Mara walk over a footbridge to cross the Talek River where they then board their game drive vehicles. This way the Basecamp Mara vehicles can be in the heart of the best game viewing area very early. On this day we experienced one of our best leopard viewing episodes ever. It revolved around interaction between a female leopard and her young cub and a large powerful male, assumed to be the father of the baby leopard.


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The female leopard seemed to be quite agitated, pacing around and making what appeared to be distress sounds. All of this and the behavior of the male leopard made us fear for the safety of the baby. Fortunately nothing like that happened.


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At one stage the female leopard stood on her hind legs with her front paws drawn up and to its chest, in the manner of a mongoose. A remarkable pose for a leopard which none of us in the vehicle had ever seen. This included a professional guide of many years’ experience and five safari professionals with more than 100 years combined experience of the bush. One for the record books. 

My guess was that the male leopard had designs on mating with the female but clearly she was not in a good situation for that, still caring for a young baby.


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By the time we decamped the scene the three leopards were still in the same general area and we still did not know what turn the events would take. I later learned that the female leopard had successfully relocated a few kilometers away but not without incident as she was almost killed by a female lion in the process.


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Basecamp Mara

Back at Basecamp we watched a beading demonstration and learnt more about the BCMM arts and crafts project which grew from a small cooperative to now supplying some Nairobi stores. Jemima talked about some of the direct visible benefits of the program among its female members who earn as much as 75% of the income from the sale of merchandise, minus the cost of raw materials. 

We also strolled through the Obama forest where the Obama family had planted four trees 15 years ago.


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Basecamp Mara

We visited the BCMM nursery which churns out hundreds of saplings used in Basecamp Mara’s massive and ongoing tree-planting effort. All in all the company has been instrumental in planting more than 100,000 trees in the area around the camp, with visible effects. We were delighted to take part in this project helping to revive the Talek river ecosystem by planting a fig and olive tree. It is truly a reforestation in every sense of the word.


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Basecamp Mara

In our blog next Friday:  we spend more time in the Masai Mara in search of and finding lions and cheetahs and a lot more, at two tented camps in the Naboisho Conservancy:  Eagle View and Leopard Rock.

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Great Plains Conservation

Mara Nyika Camp, Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya

No two persons’ perfect safari is identical.  And that is ok.  Disagreeing on what constitutes an ideal African trip is pointless.  It’s just like taste.  About which an ancient Roman adage famously decreed, there should be no argument.  ‘De gustibus non disputandum est’.  I might prefer luxury accommodation in a remote, private setting with superb guiding and cutting-edge cuisine.


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Great Plains Conservation

Your preference runs to a small tented camp in the heart of the wilderness, listening to and experiencing wildlife close up.  Others wouldn’t dream of going to Africa unless they can get their adrenaline pumping,  heading out into the bush on a foot safari or exploring the Selinda Channel in a canoe.  Some judge the success of a safari by the number of National Geographic-worthy photos they manage to capture, or the number of new bird species they are able to add to their life-list, with the help of an expert guide.


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By the time Kathy and I made it to Great Plains’ superb new Mara Nyika Camp in the private Naboisho Conservancy bordering the Masai Mara Game Reserve last December, we had experienced these and other facets of what constitutes the perfect safari.  Many of them, in fact, at several Great Plains Conservation properties in Northern Botswana such as Duba, Selinda and Zarafa.

We had experienced our first ever cheetah kill at Selinda. A searingly impactful, bitter-sweet experience which culminated in a seconds-long frenzy of action, after four hours of patiently waiting for the cheetah brothers to select the right moment and place.

Sanctuary Retreats


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At Duba, we were witness to the most spellbinding buffalo and lion interaction, one beautiful September morning.  Nobody on our game drive vehicle that morning will ever be able to forget the buffaloes turning on the lions, the soft morning light reflecting off their shiny noses, as they stared down their eternal enemies, heads held high.  In the aftermath, as the dust settled over the herd, the lions having beaten a reluctant retreat, the four of us in the back of the game vehicle looked at each other like people who had just witnessed something extraordinary.  Which it was.


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Great Plains Conservation

Our memories are indelibly filled with similar exquisitely African moments and impressions from time spent in Kenya at Ol Donyo in the Chyulu Hills, Mara Plains in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy and its little sister Mara Expedition, a small, intimate camp with just five tents, in the Masai Mara National Park.  Clearly, whatever your interests or travel style,  there is a Great Plains Conservation experience perfect for you.  There is no need to settle for someone else’s trip:  you can make it your own.  

Mara Nyika adds yet another layer of experience to the already rich Great Plains Conservation mix.


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Great Plains Conservation

For me personally, what stood out was the warmth and intimacy, and the simply unrivaled degree of personal attention we received.  Even though there were other guests in camp, we felt like and were treated as if we had the run of the place.  It started with a warm welcome and competent camp briefing from manager Marietta and the thoughtful assistance from our room attendant Dominique and server Moses.  Collectively, the Mara Nyika team was genuine and attentive to our every need.


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And then there’s the place.  Great Plains Conservation has an enviable reputation for picking absolutely the best spots for their camps.  Mara Plains,  Mara Expedition and Ol Donyo prove the point.  Clearly a lot of thought and attention to detail had gone into staking out the ideal location of each of these properties.  With the location of Mara Nyika, Great Plains hit a home run, maybe even a grand slam.   Partially hidden in a grove of flat-topped acacia trees, the camp – which is raised on a boardwalk – sits at the base of a hill on the western side of the Naboisho Conservancy.


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Great Plains Conservation

I’m not sure if the tree-house feel of the camp was purposeful or not, but that was definitely my impression.  Walking up to our room (#1) on the far end of the camp, it felt just like walking into an acacia forest.  The high boardwalk takes you right up into the tree canopy, just meters away from limbs and leaves, the umbrella tops providing comfort and shade.  Looking for Kenya’s most exquisite ‘tree-house’?  This is it.


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Great Plains Conservation

We arrived at Mara Nyika by way of a rather eventful road transfer – along some of the muddiest roads ever –  from the northern part of the Masai Mara to the Talek area and from there to Mara Nyika Camp.  Most guests would fly into the nearby Naboisho (Ol Seki) airstrip on a scheduled flight from Nairobi’s Wilson airport, or arrive by private charter.  Mara Nyika, which means “Large Plains or Great Plains,” has  five light-colored canvas tents (3 doubles and 2 family rooms).

Our double room (#1) consisted of three adjacent, interconnected rooms:  an entrance foyer/lounge, a bedroom and a bathroom, complete with a huge brass bathtub and shower.  All that space, an intriguing forest setting, the view over the woodlands, the privacy – this is a camp where one needs to spend a minimum of three nights, to enjoy it to the fullest degree.


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Great Plains Conservation

The 50,000-acre private Naboisho Conservancy  (the second largest conservancy in the greater Maasai Mara region) has lots of space to go out and explore in search of animals.  A major advantage here is the fact that the number of vehicles per sighting is strictly controlled, which makes for an optimal viewing experience.  Also, off-road driving is allowed so it is possible to get close enough to a sighting for great photographs or video, without of course displacing an animal or causing it to change its behavior.  In a private conservancy, night drives are allowed which opens up an entirely different set of experiences.  Being out there when the sun sets, having a shot at seeing some of the special nocturnal species, and maybe even  observing lions and hyenas on the hunt.    After dark is when it all happens.


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The afternoon game drive with our guide Solomon – like others I had experienced in Naboisho on a previous visit – underscored just how good the game-viewing was.   There were hundreds of zebras, topis, impalas and Thompson’s gazelles all over the plains as well as wildebeest, giraffe, dik-dik and jackals.

At the scene of a wildebeest kill – to which we had been drawn by the presence of dozens of vultures – we spotted a gorgeous single male lion, intent on warding off a bunch of hyenas encroaching on its kill.  We watched as he vacillated between defending the kill from the hyenas, or returning to the rest of his pride.


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Just as the light was starting to fade, Solomon spotted another male lion (a brother) at the base of a distant line of trees.  We made our way over there and – surprise – bumped into the rest of the pride en route.  Two females, each with several cubs.  We watched, enthralled, as the cubs ventured closer to the vehicle, practicing their rather rudimentary stalking and take-down techniques.  On each other.  It was a truly magical moment.  Eventually, in the gathering gloom, with a massive late November thunderstorm looming in the background, we sat and watched and most memorably listened to the brother as he made a powerful, booming territorial call. The kind that reverberates right in your chest.   It was time to call it a night.


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We experienced an eventful morning drive out of Mara Nyika as well, finding and observing two separate cheetah males, both in hunting mode.  One actually stalked and chased some impala but came up short.  Just like on the previous day, there were multitudes of plains game to be seen in every direction, particularly topi, giraffe, impala and Thompson’s gazelles.


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The Great Plains vehicle was ideal for a photo safari with plenty of legroom and working charge points, as well as photography bars for the cameras. The vehicle has night lights which are great for gathering all your stuff in the dark, at the end of a drive.  There was a handy on-board fridge with space for drinks and provisions to enable guests to go out on full day expeditions, if they want to.  While the vehicle was very ‘open’ all round, it was easy to cover the sides – with clean, clear plastic panels – in the event of a downpour.


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Great Plains Conservation

Under the capable direction of chef John, the meals at Mara Nyika were out of this world and the private setting made them even more special. For lunch on the day of arrival we enjoyed polenta, spinach pizza, barbecue chicken, green salad and beetroot salad. We had daily conversations with Chef John and the kitchen really turned out the most amazing food – everything was outstanding!  The bush breakfast was one of the very best we have experienced. 

That evening we sat down for a terrific private dinner in the wine room. The personalized printed menu listed several delectable options:  steak or fish for the main course, tomato soup as a starter, and dessert.


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Naboisho means “coming together” in the Maa language and represents the 500 local landowners who came together to establish the conservancy. The conservancy model combines the conservation of nature and cultural heritage, tourism and the enhancement of livelihoods for the local communities. Each guest’s stay supports over 500 Maasai families with a sustainable livelihood and helps to ensure the conservation of this vital corner of the Masai Mara ecosystem.


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Many guests may opt to spend a few days in Mara Nyika combined with a stay at Great Plains’ Mara Expedition or Mara Plains camps, to get exposure to all three wildlife areas, namely the private Olare Motorogi and Naboisho Conservancies and the Maasai Mara Reserve. Each wildlife experience from the three camps is unique and offers a different facet of the incredible Maasai Mara ecosystem.


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Great Plains Conservation

Each guest tent has a pair of high quality binoculars and a professional Canon 5D camera body and Canon 100-400mm zoom lens, available for the guests’ use.  The Mara Nyika team will download the guests’ photos to a memory stick to take with them.  Private vehicles are available upon request, at additional cost.  Children 8 years and older are welcomed and can be accommodated with their parents in the family rooms which have a common lounge, two bedrooms each with en-suite bathrooms, one bathroom with a tub and shower; the other with a shower only.  There is Wi-fi available in the guest tents.  


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Great Plains Conservation

Our blog next week will take a look at Basecamp Mara, which has 17 tents spread out along the banks of the Talek River, in the central part of the Masai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya.  The camp – and room #9 – gained a measure of fame when former US President Barack Obama and his family stayed there, when he was a US Senator.  

More Info

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Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

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Cottar’s

Cottar’s 1920s Camp

Cottar’s 1920s Camp in the far southeastern part of Kenya’s Masai Mara, right on the border of Tanzania,  ticks all the boxes for an authentic, romantic, and above all private safari experience.  It all starts with the first impression.  Stepping out of the vehicle on arrival, your eyes are drawn to two beautiful, creamy white tented structures, the Explorers tent and Mess (dining) tent.  Both with classic safari interiors, and filled with antiques and paraphernalia from the Cottar family’s decades of operating African safaris.  Turn your head to the right and there’s a sweeping view over a large expanse of lawn into rolling savannah scenery.


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Cottar’s / partimetravelers

Walk a bit further along a manicured gravel walkway and you’re ushered into your splendid room for the night:  an elegant, spacious, white tented suite, with just as pretty a view over the Masai Mara as the main mess tent.  Luxuriously furnished and incorporating original safari antiques from the 1920’s, the tents are more than a generous distance apart, ensuring a high degree of privacy with en-suite dressing room and bathroom, main bedroom and veranda.


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Cottar’s

On our second night there we were treated to a private bush bubble bath experience on the verandah, in two canvas baths  filled to the brim with piping hot water and enough bubbles to cover a small pond.  Add some  chilled Prosecco and delicious snacks and the two of us whiled away one of our best hours yet on safari.  Soon after, we enjoyed a wonderful dinner served fire-side right by our tent, with a perfectly turned out roast turkey breast, mashed potatoes, a vegetable stir fry and a banana dessert.


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Cottar’s / Bree McCann

Some further exploration of Cottar’s Camp reveals a large, sparkling blue pool with comfortable lounge chairs, a covered deck and expansive lounge area, complete with a bar, kitchen and restroom facilities.  The pool lounge area was the location for lunch on one of our days at Cottar’s: home-made pita bread with a variety of fresh vegetables, melon balls with feta cheese, beetroot salad, olives, chili peppers, balsamic vinegar, a pork stir fry and homemade ice-cream over a red-wine infused pear.


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Cottar’s

Yet another discovery, a short car ride further up the hill on which the camp is located, is an award-winning  5-roomed private villa which can sleep up to 14 people.  With a 25-meter lap pool and the best views imaginable, the villa has its own dedicated staff including two housekeepers and a chef, and two private vehicles – three if needed.


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Cottar’s

Beyond what the eye can see, or any brochure or website can reveal, Cottar’s is the embodiment of what needs to be done to protect and preserve the Kenya safari business and all its stakeholders.  More so than any other safari camp I know of, Cottar’s succeeds in blending the romance and elegance of a classic African safari, with the demands of a forward-thinking business which successfully operates in close partnership with the local Maasai community.   Over several generations and many decades, the Cottar family enterprise evolved from hunting to photographic safaris to the current model which offers a luxury, high quality wilderness experience in a sustainable manner, balancing the needs of the people, the wildlife and the environment.  


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Cottar’s / partimetravelers

Louise Cottar and the people of Cottar’s Camp

It’s a demanding, hands-on job to manage a safari camp, particularly one which sits on leased Maasai land, employs members of the local community and actively supports the community in various ways such as by building a school and providing meals for the children, conducting local health clinic visits, building a life-saving footbridge over the Sand River and becoming involved in anti-poaching and anti-deforestation projects, to name but a few.  During our short stay there I noticed co-owner Louise Cottar engaged in one-on-one meetings with local community leaders, no doubt ironing out one or the other issue.


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Cottar’s / partimetravelers

Having first met Louise when we stepped off our aircraft after an hour or so flight from Nairobi – it quickly became clear that the success of Cottar’s 1920 camp has almost everything to do with its people.  Louise was gracious and friendly, yet clearly very much focused on keeping up with the many demands of owning and managing a safari property of this stature.  Particularly at one of the most difficult times in the long history of Cottar’s,  with most international guests having been absent from Africa for the better part of a year.


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Just like Louise, everyone else we interacted with at Cottar’s displayed a keen interest in our well-being, and judging by the stellar online reviews garnered over the years, this VIP treatment is enjoyed by everyone fortunate enough to spend some time here.  Camp manager Bruce Cattermole graciously dined with us a couple of times and was ready to arrange any number of activities for us including a run with the Maasai, an e-bike outing or a hike up Cottar’s Peak.  Which unfortunately didn’t happen due to a lack of time.


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Game drives out of Cottar’s Camp

Cottar’s is known for the excellence of its guiding and our guide Wilson Tumake Mpatiani and his tracker Sallash proved to be a most capable team.  Our very first afternoon game drive at Cottar’s Camp reinforced everything I had come to admire about the Masai Mara over the years.  As a natural spectacle there are few places in Africa that rival it.  And then there’s the animals.  In what seemed like no time at all, we racked up sightings of 12 mammals, ranging from a white-tailed mongoose to a buffalo, from a topi to a giraffe.


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The following day we bumped into a pride of 11 lions, part of an even bigger pride of 22.  Their territory stretches right across the border into Tanzania.  We also came across a solitary female cheetah which appeared to be pregnant.  To be more precise, Sallash spotted her walking from an exceedingly long distance away, literally on the Tanzania side of the border.  There were giraffes everywhere!  Wilson remarked that this well-wooded eastern part of the Mara is known for having much higher numbers of giraffes than the more open plains to the west.  It stands to reason.  We were thrilled to also bump into several breeding herds of elephants on our outings from Cottar’s.


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On our second day at Cottar’s, when we drove into the Masai Mara National Park, we were both simply overawed by the beauty of this part of the reserve.  There had been good rainfall for several months and the Mara was never in better condition.  It is visually one of the most arresting expanses of real estate likely anywhere in Africa.  There is just no way to do justice to this mosaic of grass, sky and rocky hills with a photo or description.  You just have to see it yourself.  A  soul-pleasing place where civilization as we know it ends and the primeval beauty of nature in the raw takes over.


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Every now and then I felt like just stopping for no reason to let my eyes linger on the beauty around me.  Is there really a place like this where one massive grassy plain merges into another one, where one series of hills on the horizon vies with another to be more like the Africa you had come to see?  Yes there is – but don’t wait too long to get on a plane to Kenya – and to the Mara – to experience it for yourself.


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Clearly, Cottar’s 1920’s Camp has been successful in maintaining their reputation for wilderness and privacy, and for leading the way with their innovative and unique approach to sustainability.  Already,  Cottar’s 1920s Camp is a Global Ecosphere Retreat member of the Long Run,  one of the world’s largest initiatives led by nature-based businesses following the 4 C’s: conservation, community, culture and commerce.


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A talk by Letilet Ole Yenke – a local medicine man

In addition to the stellar game-viewing, another highlight of our stay was an early evening talk by a local hunter-gatherer, Letilet Ole Yenko, whose mother was a Maasai.  Letilet is a local medicine man who has had a book published (Letilet’s Tales) and who features in a documentary – ‘Life of an il Torobo Hunter-Gatherer’.  The documentary – which has had more than 9.5 million views on YouTube – can be seen here.   Letilet’s fire-side talk had to be translated in real time as he speaks no English, but it was easy to see the passion and enthusiasm for his pastoral life reflected in his weathered face.


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Letilet is exceedingly knowledgeable about more than three hundred plants in the vicinity of the camp and touched on the ancient and modern uses of quite a few – some useful for ailments, others for poison.  Letilet and other herbalists are passing on their knowledge to Cottar’s younger guides, and Cottar’s has lately been including more foraged plant items into its menus.


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Cottar’s

Which brings me back to dining.  Much of the produce which finds itself to your plate at Cottar’s is as fresh as could be, having been sourced from the extensive on-site organic garden.  Shortly after our arrival we enjoyed a simply fantastic meal with a selection of fresh salads with micro greens – in addition to some juicy ribs and freshly baked bread – served al fresco at a couple of large tables on the lawn in front of the mess tent.  It was a perfect safari experience:  casual, convivial and essentially stress-free, even in the midst of the pandemic.  In that open-air setting with lots of space, and a light breeze pushing in from the plains, we could all set aside any concerns and enjoy the food and each other’s company.


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Cottar’s looks ahead to the future

The Covid-19 lockdown allowed Cottar’s to complete some refurbishments to several of the tents and structures and to further develop unique, purpose-driven experiences that contribute to sustainability.

Louise Cottar put it like this:  ‘Luxury safaris and the Big 5 game experience have become commonplace. We believe that travellers still value these elements, but that they also want to participate in a safari that provides values, purpose and impact. As such, we have spent the last year developing safari impact experiences that have a positive effect to the guests, to the complex and unique biodiversity that surrounds us and to the local Maasai community as we move forward into the next 100 years of providing safari and conservation services’.


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Some of those experiences include enabling guests to engage with and learn about vulture rehabilitation, spend time with the only all-female conservation ranger unit in the Masai Mara, learn about the unique medicinal plants of the area, forage and taste local wild food, tour the community-owned private conservancy and participate in a reforestation seed dispersal bushwalk experience.


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The Cottars have also developed a ‘Full Circle’ safari experience which enables guests to stay longer in the Maasai Mara, and move from the 1920s Camp to the Conservancy Camp to a mobile camp, to fully enjoy the amazing breadth of experiences that the Masai Mara has to offer.  We look forward to one day returning to Cottar’s to experience more of this wonderful area and the family who is so dedicated to see it survive and thrive into the next generation and beyond.


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A note about Covid protocols:

Just like all the other Kenya properties we visited on our trip, Cottar’s 1920’s camp had a comprehensive Covid-19 protocol in place, starting with a foot-operated hand-washing and sterilizing stations at the entrances to the mess tent.  Guests’ temperatures are checked regularly, they are provided with masks, the staff wears masks all the time, and diligent cleaning procedures are in place for luggage, vehicles and common areas.


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Our blog next week will take us to a different part of the Masai Mara, to Sanctuary’s Olonana camp tucked away on the edge of the Mara river in the far northern section of the park. Set at the base of the Oloololo Escarpment, Olonana is an ideal base for visitors who would enjoy an elegant, modern lodge which is quite close to some of the best wildebeest crossing points during the annual migration season.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Sanctuary Olonana Camp, Masai Mara ACT 1: THE SETTING

19th January 2021

Sanctuary Olonana Camp, Masai Mara
ACT 1: THE SETTING


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Sanctuary Retreats

Sanctuary Olonana Camp, Masai Mara

Act 1: The Setting

Like the prelude to an opera, walking into Sanctuary’s Olonana Camp in the far northern part of Kenya’s Masai Mara, provides you with a glimpse of what’s to come. You hear and see, maybe for the first time, whispers and fragments of what would later develop into beautiful melodies, and romantic arias. The makings of the orchestra is all around you:  birdsong follows your muted footsteps along a forested path, with the low rumble of rushing water adding a note of drama and tension.


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Sanctuary Retreats

Olonana is tucked into a dense riverine forest along the edge of the Mara River, and while there are 14 rooms in total, you’d never know it, at first glance.  The walkway takes you first to the impressive main lounge and dining room, and then it winds past signs pointing the way to the pool and spa, with the entrances to the suites visible on your right.


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Sanctuary Retreats

Act 2: The Suites

Enter your room and suddenly you’re center stage  with a striking view over the strongly flowing Mara River, its murky, swirling water obscuring two villains in the cast:  hippos and crocodiles. To be sure, Olonana is not an operetta or musical theater.  No.  The room says it all.  This is a grand opera with no expenses spared.  We were in suite #6.  It is fantastic, with a huge king size bed, two small but functional desks on opposite sides, a sunken lounge, a good-sized bathtub, a rain shower with triple shower-head, a wrap-around front patio and a double bed in an outside sala.


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Sanctuary Retreats

For those dreamy afternoon siestas when it is just you and the music of the river and the forest.  The front of the rooms is all glass, with lovely views over the river and landscapes beyond.  Everything is bathed in gorgeous natural light, creating a sense of being connected to the wilderness outside.

Three of the suites at Sanctuary Olonana have an extra bedroom, which make them ideal for families. The attention to detail extends to fully stocked mini-fridges and specially commissioned African art.


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Act 3: The people and the place

Over the next couple of days or so, you meet all the other artists involved in the production. Starting with the camp manager and his staff. On the day we arrived Jackson Keiwua was in charge.   He was most charming and all his staff members we interacted with were caring, welcoming and provided exceptional service.  A lot of what the culinary team does, takes place offstage but the results speak for themselves.  The meals were consistently delicious with ample but realistic portions.


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For a late lunch on arrival we could choose between chicken kabobs and a vegetarian dish, on another occasion we enjoyed a triple cheese ravioli, and a superb dessert:  pavlova with fruit.   A veritable chorus of yellow weavers were entertaining us during the meal, flitting to and from their nests, or building new ones. Singing and warbling non-stop. Dinner on our second night had two options as always:    beef fillet or red snapper, finished off with a ginger snap and chocolate ice cream.  Sweet music.


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The main lodge interior serves as an extension of the surrounding wilderness with dramatic glass doors and windows letting in ample natural light.   Ornamentation includes hand-crafted Maasai spears on the walls and patterned prints, with a pleasing, low-key mix of African elements and  contemporary touches.      Fulfilling a dual role as a dining and recreation area, there is a bar, fire pit, a separate library room (sometimes used for private dining) and balconies that hang over the rushing waters below.


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Act 4: The game-viewing

A well written opera has drama, conflict, sometimes death and of course a good measure of deception, flirtation and romance. And where do we find all this on a safari in Kenya?  In the grand theater of the Masai Mara of course. The star role in the performance was reserved for our guide Benson.   Our journey to Olonana was a long one.  Starting off from Cottar’s 1920s Camp, we drove clear across the Masai Mara from south to north.  From the Sand River entrance to the park via Mara River Bridge – where Benson took over – all the way to the Oloololo Gate and another 20 minutes or so to the camp.


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Along the way, we observed lots of wildlife including two different lion stalking events.  The first one was a solitary female lion targeting a small group of zebra along the Sand River.  Unfortunately for us but happily for them, the zebras were spooked by a few jittery red hartebeest and noisy guinea fowl alarm calls.  It was not to be.


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Around noon, we stopped to observe a group of three lions stalking a small group of waterbuck.  Ending with a half-hearted charge, the attempt was ultimately unsuccessful but intriguing to watch, nonetheless.  We had some superb views of elephants against the most amazing backdrops, sometimes just the big sky expanse of the Mara, other times the looming ‘wall’ of the Oloololo escarpment.  We saw  zebras on the move, gazelles and antelopes, warthogs seemingly everywhere, and even a hippo out of the water.


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Like a good conductor, Benson knew the score intimately and timed everything perfectly.  The game-viewing highlight of our stay at Olonana was unquestionably seeing a solitary black rhino, just after a heavy thunderstorm accompanied by a significant downpour.  Even though visibility was poor,  we were thrilled to see one of the handful of rhinos still to be found in this part of the Masai Mara National Park.


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Conditions were not suitable for photography and I was ready to throw in the towel after 20 minutes of peering at the rhino from a distance, in either heavy rain or thick mist.  Benson had other ideas.   He stuck around an additional 20 minutes or so, even after the rhino seemed to have disappeared.  It turned out that the animal was simply lying down.  When it finally got back up – the rain had stopped falling by now and the fog had mostly dissipated – it started to walk almost directly towards us.  We ended up with a bunch of good views and great photos of the black rhino.  Seemingly staring right into the lens.  Bravissimo!


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The following day we embarked on a near full day drive with a picnic lunch.  The area had experienced abundant rainfall and the Mara never looked better.  Beautiful green scenery stretched to the horizon in every direction.  We drove all the way to the border of Tanzania,  observing some big herds of elephant, buffalo and topi along the way.  Benson’s driving skills were pushed to the limit as he successfully negotiated several waterlogged, beyond muddy, downright treacherous spots.  En route, we stopped at the main Serena crossing and saw six or so fierce-looking, old, gnarly crocodiles.  Massive and truly prehistoric in appearance, they were death incarnate.  Repulsive yet fascinating.


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Planning ahead for the next performance

As the curtain fell on our Olonana experience, we were on our feet in a standing ovation.  It was a marvelous performance and we were already thinking about tickets for the next time.  For visitors contemplating a trip to Kenya and to the Masai Mara, what we can say is that Olonana will be a perfect first experience, an ideal introduction to what is special and unique about the Masai Mara.  And even if you think you’ve seen and experienced it all before, this particular area of the Mara and this specific lodge have many advantages and accolades:


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  • During the annual Wildebeest Migration, the action happens less than 40 minutes from the camp’s doorstep
  • The camp is easily accessible, only a 45 minute flight from Nairobi
  • The luxury Geoffrey Kent Suite features 2 ensuite bedrooms, private dining, an infinity pool and private vehicle and guide
  • In addition to game drives, there are cultural visits, bush dinners, sundowners, balloon flights and scenic flights
  • Olonana is Gold Eco-Rated by Ecotourism Kenya and the winner of “Africa’s Leading Eco-Lodge” in World Travel Awards 2015
  • Olonana is In the TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence Hall of Fame. This accolade is granted only to properties that have won the Certificate of Excellence for five years in a row.
  • There is Wi-Fi (no extra cost) available in each room.


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When you’re not out on a game drive, you can swim lengths in the pool, enjoy an outdoor massage at the spa or walk through camp along the shaded forest path which runs from the main area to the suites. 

From your private day bed you can observe the squabbles of the hippos in the river below, or follow the adventures of the golden weavers darting in and out of nests constructed directly over the water.


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Next Friday’s blog takes a look at a different part of the Masai Mara, the private Naboisho Conservancy, and specifically at a superb new property in the area, Great Plains’ Mara Nyika Camp.

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Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

9th October 2020

Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs


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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

For many visitors to Africa, seeing the big cats is #1 on their wish list.  Nobody wants to go home only to have to say ‘no’ to the inevitable question about having seen lions.  Even though the total number of lions in Africa have dropped alarmingly over the last few decades – largely due to habitat loss – they are still relatively easily seen in most wilderness areas.  Lions are also prolific breeders under the right conditions – with enough prey animals around – so they bounce back quickly and predictably after setbacks such as prolonged droughts.  Which means that on your next – or first – trip to Africa, you will almost definitely bump into lions if you spend a few days in practically any major game reserve or national park.  In Southern or East Africa.  So, did you see lions?  Yes.


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Other big cats are less frequently seen.  Leopards are supremely adaptable creatures and they are common in almost any non-urban African habitat except true deserts.  What makes them difficult to find and observe is their naturally elusive, shy and mostly nocturnal nature.  They are mostly solitary and stealthy creatures of the night. That is when they are out and about in search of prey such as unsuspecting smaller antelope, monkeys, baboons and the like.  Consequently, visitors see them mostly very early in the mornings or in the late afternoon, when they start to get active after resting up.  In areas where they are habituated to the presence of vehicles, such as the Sabi Sand reserve in South Africa, in parts of the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, in private concessions in Northern Botswana and at Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, they are more readily seen as they don’t conceal themselves at the first sign of vehicles, movement or humans.  


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The other big African cat – the cheetah – is in a different league altogether.  It has a relatively tiny total population of about 7,000 in comparison with lions (approximately 25,000) and leopards (approximately 700,000).  Despite being as sparsely distributed as they are, cheetahs are quite visible where present, due to their diurnal nature and preferred habitat.  Cheetahs are adapted to hunt during the day which reduces competition from the nocturnal big cats, notably lions.  Cheetahs also prefer open terrain where they can use their amazing speed to its best advantage.  And they will often clamber onto anthills or stumps or other elevated spots to check out the area for potential prey – or danger.  Open terrain, broad daylight, a spotted cat perched on top of an anthill?  Bingo!  For me personally, a cheetah sighting is a highlight of any Africa trip.  They are just so rare, so beautiful and so special that even a brief glimpse of one of them will make your day.  

Here are some photos we took of cheetahs in six different areas in Southern and East Africa where they are regularly seen.  The captions summarize the back story about each photo and how it came to be.


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Selinda, Northern Botswana

This cheetah was part of a coalition of two brothers which used to move up and down along the Linyanti River in northern Botswana, spending weeks or sometimes months in an area.  For no apparent reason, they would then move along to a neighboring concession.  Less competition from lions or hyenas, more prey animals?  Who knows.  The reasons are hardly ever readily apparent.  The day on which we bumped into this particular cheetah and his brother, marked the first sighting of cheetahs on a game drive from Selinda, in several weeks.  So essentially, we got lucky. Being in the right habitat and spending enough time scanning open terrain along the Linyanti floodplain, just improved our luck somewhat.  We would get even luckier later that day, when we saw the cheetah coalition hunt and bring down an impala.  My advice to anyone wanting to see a cheetah kill?  Bring your best patience game as cheetahs take their time sizing up the area, the conditions and whatever their instinct dictates.  It took the brothers the better part of four hours to finally attempt a charge.  They were successful though.  Cheetahs are the most efficient of the big cats in terms of hunting success, bringing down about 40% to 50% of prey, as a percentage of total attempts.  By comparison leopards are successful about 30% to 40% of the time.  Lions bring up the rear in a significant way, being successful less than 20% of the time.  


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Tswalu, South Africa

Tswalu in the northern Cape Kalahari in South Africa is better known as one of the best places in Africa to see pangolins and aardvarks, but it is no slouch for some of the big cats, notably lions and cheetahs.  On our most recent visit to Tswalu (we will be returning this November) Kathy had set aside one afternoon to do some horseback riding.  We were at the stables and she was just about to set off into the veld with one of Tswalu’s beautiful steeds, when word came on the radio that a couple of cheetahs had been spotted.  Kathy and I looked at each other and there was no disagreement:  the horses would have to wait for another day.  It was a longish drive to get to the cheetahs, with the light fading fast by the time we pulled up to them.  Even so, the decision was the right one.  Looking in our direction in the gathering gloom, the cheetah’s ordinarily yellow eyes shone almost red.  The sighting would be brief but eminently memorable. 


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Masai Mara, Kenya

When I first saw these cheetahs on a game drive out of Mara Explorer Camp, one of the cheetahs had jumped on top of a game drive vehicle from Mara Intrepids.  I do not like to see behavior like that: it should have been prevented by the Mara Intrepids driver-guide.  The guides in the area are all aware of the propensity of some of the cheetahs to try to use the vehicle as an observation post.  And the guides know to avoid an incident, by staying clear of ‘known perpetrators’.  It is potentially dangerous for the guests and for the cheetahs.  Getting bitten or getting run over, respectively.  Too risky all round.  We left the scene, deciding to rather return early the next morning.  It made all the difference.  We had the cheetahs to ourselves for the better part of an hour, observing them walking around and getting onto anthills – not vehicles.  The way it should be.  


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Serengeti Plains, Tanzania

Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and its northernmost extension, the Masai Mara in Kenya, are likely Africa’s single best repository of cheetahs.  This is their habitat par excellence.  Open, rolling grassy plains with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and riverine thickets, and plenty of prey in the form of Thomson’s gazelles and impala.  Irrespective of the status of the annual wildebeest migration, the Serengeti and the Mara are great for the big cats, who have territories to defend and who do not move around with the wildebeest and the zebras.  In fact, on the day we saw this cheetah on a game drive out of Nomad Tanzania’s Lamai Serengeti Camp, we experienced a rare big cat trifecta:  lions, leopards and a cheetah.  All in one game drive, not during the migration season.  Other parts of the Serengeti where we have experienced above-average cheetah sightings include the southern Serengeti (Kusini camp) and the western Seronera area (Namiri Plains camp). 


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Hwange, Zimbabwe

Since we regularly started visiting Hwange National Park in north-western Zimbabwe in the 1990’s, we’ve come to recognize it as a good and reliable area for cheetah sightings.  Just like elsewhere in Africa, the Hwange cheetahs move around and can’t always be seen in the same spots.  So if you’re keen on seeing cheetahs on a trip to Zimbabwe, we would suggest including two different camps, such as Somalisa or The Hide or Khulu Bush Camp, combined with Little Makalolo or Linkwasha or Camelthorn.  And give yourself plenty of time to find the cheetahs; five to six nights in the area would be ideal.  This trio of young cheetahs were following their mother around and getting a lesson in patience.  She wanted them to stay back and stay low while she approached some antelope.  It was not to be.  They kept showing themselves and following too closely behind her.  Which naturally spooked the antelope. All in a day of growing up.  


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Mashatu, Botswana

Mashatu Game Reserve in far south-eastern Botswana is currently one of the best big cat destinations in Southern Africa.   Spend three or better yet four nights there and you will most likely get to see lions, leopards and cheetahs.  And not furtive ‘drive-by’ sightings either.  On a recent September visit to the area, we had multiple good sightings of both lions and leopards, and notched up two different cheetah sightings in the course of a 3-night stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  What makes Mashatu a particularly good bet for cheetahs – and other big cats – is the fact that off-road driving is allowed which means that you can get quite close to these magnificent cats.  For photographers this is a major advantage over many other areas where vehicles are not permitted off-road.  Also, compared with most other good big-cat destinations, the Mashatu properties namely Mashatu Lodge, Mashatu Tented Camp and Euphorbia are moderately priced – at about half the cost of camps of similar quality in northern Botswana.  We recommend combining a 3-night WalkMashatu foot safari with a few days at one of the Mashatu camps, to make the most of the area.  


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on one of the most popular and also instantly recognizable African mammals, the Giraffe.  There will be photographs, of course, as well as some information about places where they can be seen.  We will also review the various species you are likely to encounter in Southern and East Africa, and their conservation status.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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