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Lewa

48 Hours on Safari at Lewa Wilderness

14th September 2023

48 Hours on Safari at Lewa Wilderness

Usually around a month or so before our guests depart to various destinations in Africa – and now also India – we get them on a pre-departure Zoom call. We walk them through their itinerary on a day-by-day basis; review logistics; discuss activities at the various properties; and check on passport validity, visas and health requirements. 

One of the questions which comes up quite frequently from first time visitors concerns the daily routine. What exactly does a day on safari look like? When do you have to be up in the morning, how long are the game drives and what type of food is served? 

We thought we’d take a blow-by-blow look at a recent 2-night stay at Lewa Wilderness to give our readers a first-hand look at what may await them on their own trip. 

Lewa Wilderness is an imposing 9-roomed lodge located on a ridge in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in the north central Kenyan highlands at an altitude of just over 1,500 meters above sea level. That makes it a mile high, so pack appropriately for the cool nights. Lewa is a proverbial stone’s throw from the equator, so winter and summer days are not unlike each other. Mostly balmy with maximum temperatures ranging from the mid-80’s Fahrenheit from May through August and increasing to the mid-90’s by December and January. Average lows are in the upper 60’s to low 70’s. 

Over the course of our recent 3-month plus African sojourn, we visited more than 16 properties in 5 countries.  Our two nights at Lewa Wilderness in early June was a standout. Simply a wonderful experience all round: excellent game viewing with our guide Francis Mayetu (how about a cheetah kill!), amazing food as always and fantastic hospitality thanks to camp manager Karmushu and his entire team.

There were so many highlights, starting with being uber comfortable in our gorgeous room. An unexpected fun activity: a guided visit to the massive camp vegetable and fruit garden known as the Shamba. We think everyone should do it. See where much of the ingredients for your delicious Lewa Wilderness meals come from! Making us feel ever more ‘at home’ was meeting the owners Will and Emma Craig and – a bonus – bumping into their daughter Sacha, visiting for the weekend with some friends. And babies! What a pleasant surprise. We had met Sacha previously when she was traveling in the USA.  

Will and Emma Craig Lewa by tcunniffe

Getting there

We arrived at Lewa airstrip on a 12-seater Cessna 208 (Caravan), the workhorse of the safari industry in Kenya and elsewhere in Africa. Operated by Safarilink, our flight was  one of approximately 500 or so scheduled charter flight legs taking place in Kenya on an average day. Safarilink, which has an impeccable safety record, has a fleet of 12 aircraft including eight Caravans and four twin-engined Dehavilland Dash-8’s. Lewa can be reached by air from Nairobi, direct from the Masai Mara and also from nearby Nanyuki town. The property is also driving distance – about four hours – from Nairobi. 

The Cessna 208 Caravan

The Cessna 208 is admirably suited for sightseeing from the air, as it has large windows and the wings are attached to the top of the fuselage. For a clear, unobstructed view try to find a seat closer to the front or behind the wheels. The aircraft’s rugged fixed under-carriage is ideal for landing on the dirt airstrips common in the game parks. The seating is one on the left of the narrow aisle, and two to the right. The luggage weight limit is usually 20kg (44 lbs) per person, which can be split between three items: a medium-sized duffel bag (which Fish Eagle Safaris provides), a small backpack and a hand item like a handbag or a camera bag. After boarding – one at a time on the fold-out steps and mind your head – you can leave your backpack in the rear of the aircraft, which is usually cordoned off with netting or canvas.

Guiding team at Lewa Wilderness 

Upon arrival at the Lewa airstrip, we met our driver guide Francis Mayetu, with whom we would be spending a good chunk of time over the next couple of days. Francis has been guiding at Lewa Wilderness for more than 10 years. At well over 6 feet, Francis cuts an impressive figure in his traditional Maasai gear, complete with a feathered mohawk which bumped up against the roof of the safari vehicle as we drove. 

Francis is one of the ten members of the Lewa Wilderness guiding corps, an exceptionally talented and highly experienced group, some of whom have been guiding either at Lewa Wilderness or in the surrounding area for more than twenty years. Their expertise covers the entire spectrum of activities available at Lewa Wilderness, ranging from walking to camelback safaris to photographic outings and horseback riding.  

It took us about 40 minutes to get to the lodge, making several stops en route to observe some of the northern Kenya endemics for which Lewa is famous, including the reticulated giraffes, Grevy’s zebras and Beisa oryx. These spectacular mammals are mostly found just in north-central Kenya.  

On arrival at Lewa Wilderness we were presented with a cool beverage and warm towels to freshen up. After being welcomed by manager Karmushu Kiama and riding manager Miranda Simpson, we sat down in the comfortable lounge for a camp briefing. We tried our hardest to pay attention to the all too predictable information about meal times, activities, safety procedures and the like. Our dietary preferences were reconfirmed and eventually we were escorted to our room.

Lewa hillside king room credit tcunnliffe

Accommodation 

To say that we were exceedingly comfortable in our room at Lewa would be an understatement. The rooms are amazing. Huge, with lots of space and natural light. The rooms at Lewa Wilderness are all large and imposing, six of them with excellent views over the surrounding Eastern Marania valley. The three cozy garden cottages  open up to a beautiful lawn. It took a few minutes for our room steward to run us through the light switches (complicated), instructions to open and close the safe, what to do in case of an emergency and so on. 

Activities 

Twice daily game drives are the primary activities at Lewa Wilderness but the property has a stellar range of additional activities. One which we mentioned earlier on is a guided walk through the camp’s organic vegetable and fruit garden, the shamba. The others include foot safaris, horseback riding and a camelback safari. A range of activities beyond the property itself are also available such as various community-related outings (such as school and clinic visits), watching the Lewa anti-poaching canine team in action and visiting the Ngare Ndare Forest for a tree canopy walk. Some of these activities are best booked in advance, something we can help with, naturally.   

Camelback safari 

Fancy getting better acquainted with the ins and outs of camelback safaris? Lewa Wilderness has you covered. You can either hike alongside them or go all out and ride. Just be sure to remember this: once the camel feels your weight on its back, it ‘wakes up’ from its prone position by suddenly, and sometimes rather forcefully, lifting its hindquarters. Not a problem if you already know this…. So brace yourself and avoid any chance of an ignominious tumble forwards. The same at the end of the ride. Except this time the camel will drop down its head and tuck in its front legs first. Be ready to avoid another possible faceplant! Once you are underway, the ride will be a bit bumpy and the camel is not likely to be influenced by your tugging on the reins. At least not much. It will simply obey its handler or follow the camel in front of it. Do I make it sound like fun? You’ll just have to try for yourself. 

Supporting conservation and community 

As a guest of Lewa Wilderness, you are automatically supporting the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, renowned for its pioneering conservation initiatives as well as community and education programs. Before you leave, be sure to check out the various gift bag options in the curio shop. It’s a tangible way to further support the local community and specifically the school children. An education is key to their future prospects. If you visit Lewa as a guest of Fish Eagle Safaris, Lewa Wilderness will contribute $25 towards the cost of a local child’s school fees. 

Game drives at Lewa Wilderness

Around 4:30 or so, it was time for our first game drive at Lewa Wilderness. After some light refreshments and a cup of tea, we headed out in the open sided vehicle, cameras and binoculars in hand. It is imperative to have your own pair of binocs on safari. It may very well be the difference between getting a memorable look at something small and beautiful – like a serval cat – or practically not seeing it at all 

Our steed for the next couple of days was a 6 seater Toyota Land Cruiser. Open sided, it is ideal for what we came to do: find, observe and photograph some of Africa’s signature mammals. And birds. Over the next three hours we came across a variety of mammals and birds, the highlight being a trio of white rhinos, our first ones on this trip to Kenya. 

In addition to the northern Kenyan endemics (Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx and Somali ostrich), Lewa is renowned for its healthy population of both white and black rhinos. What is more, rhinos at Lewa are unaltered, with their often magnificent horns on full display, just the way nature intended them to be. Regrettably, that is mostly not the case in much of Southern Africa where most safari properties – in a desperate attempt to prevent poaching – are dehorning their rhinos on a regular basis.  

Over the course of our two-day stay at Lewa Wilderness we cleaned up on the northern endemics and we witnessed a cheetah kill when a female cheetah took down a Grant’s gazelle right in front of us. We watched the whole thing from stalking to wild, tail-swerving chase right up to the take-down. A bit later on we also had a sighting of a male lion laying up along a perennial stream. Add both black and white rhinos (quite a few of both), buffaloes, elephants and zebras and it all amounted to a most satisfying experience.  

The food at Lewa Wilderness  

By the time dinner rolled around on our first day at Lewa Wilderness, we had an inkling of what to expect. It all starts with the freshest possible produce, right out of Lewa Wilderness’ own small farm, originally started by Will Craig’s mother, Delia. Every meal at the lodge includes fresh organic produce from the large vegetable garden. The chefs at Lewa Wilderness also get their eggs, milk and goat’s cheese from the farm and source other ingredients and foodstuffs from the surrounding community.   

Breakfast and lunch are served casually. Guests can pick what they’re craving from a full spread of fresh and delicious options. Dinner is presented more formally, with guests being served a three-course set menu to the backdrop of a crackling fireplace and a  star-filled sky. 

Kathy and I took our seats for dinner at just about  8: 00 pm, joining several other guests around a long, communal table. Having been briefly back to our room, we had exchanged our safari gear for casual clothing. There was a slight chill in the air and like us, most of the other guests had donned a fleece or light jacket. 

Dinners at Lewa Wilderness are communal (unless otherwise requested) and we enjoyed meeting some of the other guests. One of them was finishing up preparations for her first ascent of Mt Kilimanjaro. I was only too happy to share some of the experience I had gained in the course of my own previous Kili climbs. On the day, we enjoyed a minestrone soup, a delicious beef bourguignon with potatoes, carrots and courgettes, and an excellent dessert.  

Here are a few of the dishes currently in the Lewa Wilderness chef’s rotation:

Breakfast Special 

Rare Breed Black Aisberg tomatoes – a dark beefsteak variety grown in the greenhouse – on homemade sourdough toast with good olive oil and salt. The key thing here is simplicity and focusing on the superb quality of the produce. 

Lunchtime salads 

Garden charred sweet corn, broad bean, avocado and coriander salsa. Lewa Wilderness grows three out of the four ingredients, with just the avocado being brought in from a farm five miles away. Lewa Wilderness recently planted several avocado trees but it will take a few years before they can harvest the fruit. 

Roasted Beetroot and Goat Cheese Salad 

Lewa Wilderness grows their beetroot and makes their own goat cheese from their resident goat herd. Simply boil and then thinly slice the beetroot with a mandoline, sprinkle with crumbled goat cheese, top with a classic vinaigrette and garden herbs and voila!

Sesame French Bean Salad 

This Asian french bean salad is super simple but delicious. Vibrant colors and Lewa Wilderness’ homegrown beans make it a fun side dish. 

Courgetti with homemade pesto 

The chefs at Lewa Wilderness spiralise their own greenhouse grown courgettes and mix them with a freshly made pesto using their own basil. Raw food at lunch is great for everyone’s digestion and brings freshness to the meal. 

The daily routine at Lewa Wilderness

Routine is not a word that sits well in the safari lexicon. No two days are ever alike. Even so, there is a certain pattern to how most days unfold. Safari days start early. On our first full day at Lewa Wilderness we were up and ready to roll at around 6am when the room attendant showed up with tea and coffee. We grabbed our stuff and headed to the lounge for a light breakfast. There was toast and marmalade or honey. Some fresh fruit which tasted like the real thing. Freshly baked bread. And porridge. 

During high season Lewa Wilderness keeps a similar schedule in terms of activities and meal times. Guests head off early and come back for a big breakfast after their activity. Lunch is a buffet around 1pm and the lodge plans on having guests sit down for supper at 8pm, once they are all back from their afternoon adventures. Flexibility is key, and Lewa Wilderness always do their best to fit in with their guests’ plans. It is not a problem to arrange private dining for guests if they prefer a meal away from the communal table. With more guests comes the potential for more night drives. For families with young children, Lewa Wilderness suggests earlier dinners between 7pm and 7.30pm.

For more information about safaris including Lewa Wilderness, please contact us at 1-800-513-5222 or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Letter from Kenya

1st June 2023

Letter from Kenya

The best destination for a first safari? The ideal country for a ‘one and done’ safari? The classic of all classic safari areas in Africa? Kenya, Kenya and Kenya. 

For the last 10 days, Kathy and I have been revisiting four areas in Kenya which help make it what it is: an astonishingly diverse, breathtakingly beautiful country. A country which lives up to even the most elevated of expectations for a safari. Lots of animals which are easy to see. The friendliest of people. And a well functioning tourism infrastructure with accommodation choices to suit everyone’s taste and budget. 

Early on, at Elewana’s Tortilis Camp in Amboseli, we rediscovered the feelings and emotions which go hand in hand with being on safari. The feeling of being in the right place. The pervasive sense of being connected with your surroundings. Almost as if Africa is where you belong and where you’re meant to be.

It is not unusual to experience deja vu while on safari in Kenya. On just our second night at Amboseli with Mt. Kilimanjaro slowly disappearing as the last light faded to black, I felt oddly at home. Or maybe I never really left the last time. The distinct feeling of having lived that precise moment already – of having the same experience again – was as palpable as the evening breeze on my skin. As many times as this has happened to me and other people I know, I’ve almost come to expect it in Africa. Maybe it is just a memory of a dream. Or something buried deep in our subconscious mind, hearkening back to our progenitors who spread out into the world from this very area. Africa. It’s good to be back.  

All an Africa aficionado has to do is to enunciate four words out loud and something magical happens… Amboseli. Meru. Samburu. Lewa. The mind lights up with visions of elephants wallowing in an idyllic swamp setting. With images of one of East Africa’s best safari lodges, its rooms carefully tucked in among giant granite boulders. With pictures of a Samburu warrior – dressed to the hilt in ceremonial garb – straddling a boda-boda noisily taking its owner to the weekly market. With recollections of conservation work encompassing habitat, wildlife and the local community – rivaled by none. 

Traveling within Kenya in the typical ‘safari cocoon’ – where everything is taken care of and you literally just have to show up each morning – we were once again wowed by the country’s dazzling diversity of animals, landscapes and experiences. All without setting foot in the Masai Mara, its crown jewel.  

In just 9 nights on safari – with quite a bit of time taken up with site inspections – we tallied 36 mammal species and 145 bird species. The numbers – even as impressive as they are – become almost meaningless in the light of specific experiences. Here are a few:

Incredibly, two cheetah kills on the same day. Both kills made by female cheetahs taking down young Grant’s gazelles. One in Samburu, practically within sight of Elephant Bedroom Camp and the other one in Lewa on a game drive from Lewa Wilderness Lodge. We watched, spellbound, awestruck by the cheetahs’ amazing turn of speed as they ran down the overmatched gazelles.

Several hundred strikingly beautiful lesser flamingos reflected in the glassy surface of Lake Amboseli, superimposed with the reflection of Mt Kilimanjaro. An abundance of riches.

A powerful tawny eagle striking a cattle egret midair and downing it. Upon our approach, the eagle took off right in front of us. With the unfortunate egret gripped tightly in its talons, the eagle made its way to a distant copse of trees. Ironically, the dead egret’s immaculate white plumage shone like a beacon against the eagle’s chocolate brown feathers.

Two female lions walking along a track in Samburu, their ultra-lean appearance telling a story of hardship among plenty. Tall grasses creating ideal cover for herbivores whose numbers had plunged due to a long and only recently broken drought. The result? Hard times for lions.

A kaleidoscope of vividly colored reticulated giraffes, their rich orange-brown pattern creating the most stunning of natural tapestries. Converging and separating, their extraordinarily long necks jutting out in every direction – they were nothing short of Daliesque.

All of these extraordinary sightings came courtesy of our outstanding guides – John Njoroge in Amboseli, Joel Gachora in Meru and Francis Mayetu at Lewa. We also reconnected with our long-time friend Edwin Selempo, head guide of Origins Safaris, our Kenya destination management company for the last 20-plus years. In his usual inimitable way, Edwin capably guided us in Samburu. As always, he wowed us with his amazing birding skills, the easy and almost unobtrusive way in which he imparts information and his sunny disposition. Witty repartee? Better have it ready when traveling with Edwin.

AMBOSELI

Tanzania has the mountain and Kenya has the view.  All too true when said about Kilimanjaro when viewed from Amboseli National Park. Amboseli is the spot from where you can see Kilimanjaro like you’ve always imagined it: a great big looming mountain abruptly jutting out of the open plains, surrounded by nothing. Which makes it, as the guidebooks say, the world’s highest freestanding mountain.  

The perfect Amboseli photo opportunity? Having a few of Amboseli’s strikingly white-tusked elephants in between you and the mountain… Beyond needing a bit of luck for that, you’ll need a competent guide who understands the movements of the elephants into and out of the swamps and who can anticipate where they will be at specific times of the day. Plus of course the mountain has to be visible, which is not always the case. 

As massive as it is, Kilimanjaro is as evanescent as an image on an Etch-A-Sketch. One minute there, the next minute – gone. Your best chance to see it is usually early in the morning or late in the afternoon during the wetter part of the year, from about November through May. During the dry season from June through October, the mountain often disappears completely, hidden behind a hazy curtain of clouds, fog, dust and smoke.  

Did we see the mountain? Did we ever! Kili was out from our arrival to our departure, morning until night. If we never see Kilimanjaro again, that amazingly evocative picture will be emblazoned in our memories forever. The incredible snow-capped bulk of it, its overwhelming presence transforming a nice corner of Africa into a place you simply have to see and experience.

MERU

Meru National Park is Kenya’s forgotten secret. The park gained a measure of fame – and lots of visitors – in the late 1960’s after the release of  ‘Born Free,’ a movie about Elsa, an orphaned lion cub. Elsa was hand-raised by Joy Adamson and her game-warden husband George, right in Meru. Ironically – and often omitted from the tale – George had to shoot Elsa’s mother in self-defense when the lioness attacked him while trying to protect her cubs. Elsa, one of three surviving cubs, was successfully released back into the Meru wilderness a couple of years later. After being away in England for more than a year, the Adamsons returned to Meru and found Elsa – who still remembered them – with three cubs of her own.

Then the story of Meru took a turn for the worse. Invading bandits and poachers from Somalia decimated the wildlife for much of the late 1980’s and 90’s. Visitors stopped coming and the park fell into neglect. It wasn’t until 2000 when the Kenya Wildlife Service, under the leadership of Richard Leakey and with the financial support of private conservation groups, was able to invest substantial amounts of money into combating poaching and restoring the park to its former glory.

Current day Meru is once again a showcase park, famous for its striking African savanna landscapes and its diversity, with the park containing an extraordinarily high number of different mammals and birds. Even so, the park is still lightly visited compared with most of Kenya’s others. On one occasion we spent the better part of 40 minutes observing a lone female lion beneath a tree on the edge of a stream without so much as one other vehicle driving by. Some 13 perennial streams flow through Meru from west to east, defining the landscape of the park. The rivers – which are part of the Tana River basin – act as magnets for wildlife, particularly in the dry season which stretches from June through September.  

We simply love Elsa’s Kopje where we rested our weary heads for a couple of nights in Meru. This stunning property is considered by many to be one of the most spectacular locations and lodge designs in Africa. In addition to its splendid location, with its individually designed rooms artfully obscured by vegetation and rocks on the slope of an inselberg, Elsa’s has a charming central area overlooking an infinity pool, and a solid reputation for good food, great hospitality and top-notch management. 

SAMBURU

Samburu is Africa right down to its ubiquitous red dust which gives its many elephants their telltale cinnamon brown appearance. It can be a harsh and unforgiving place, particularly in times of drought which can last for months, even years. Dry or not, Samburu is always dramatic. If it’s not the striking vegetation – dominated by massive stands of doum palms – it’s the glimpses of far-off mountains like Ololokwe, the sacred mountain of the Samburu.

Be on the lookout for the unique gerenuk antelope in this area; it is easily recognized by its long thin neck, its tendency to stand on its hind legs to browse and its peculiar ‘ET’-like facial features. While visiting Samburu we recommend taking some time to visit a local manyatta. Squeeze into one of the smoky, bare-bones huts and observe the near total absence of so many material things we take for granted. 

Elephant Bedroom Camp, where we spent two nights, is a small camp hidden among the riverine forest on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River. The camp is right in the heart of the best game viewing area of Samburu and guests don’t have to drive miles and miles (as is the case from some other camps) to see the wildlife. Guests from other camps drive here. Over the course of our 3-night stay there were lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted dogs seen within a mile from the camp. Also an aardwolf.

LEWA

Every once in a while on my African travels I discover a place which immediately appeals to me. Bonus? When I realize that our guests will enjoy and appreciate it as well. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of those places. Lewa is special on many levels. Back when I first visited in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘Out of Africa.’ It was no different this time around. Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa.’ Standing there on a clear day on an elevated spot, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south. If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe. Mountains, valleys, vast open grassy plains and the gray-blue horizon seemingly reaching up to the clouds.

Other ways in which Lewa is special? It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa. Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 255 rhinos currently, a significant percentage of all rhinos in Kenya. Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s zebra, beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe. Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful. Lewa has an enviable record as a hugely successful wildlife conservation entity and for effectively involving the surrounding community and mobilizing their support. 

So what is a keen safari enthusiast to do? If you’ve never been to Kenya, give us a call at 1 800 513-5222 or email me (bert@fisheaglesafaris.com) to discuss some options and let’s get you on a flight to Nairobi. With the possible exception of April and May, Kenya is a true year-round destination. For the wildebeest & zebra migration, July through October are the best months but there’s much to be said for November through March as well. Been to Kenya before? No reason not to go back. Kenya is the most diverse safari destination of all and there is always somewhere new to explore, or a different time of the year to visit. Take a few friends and book one of the exclusive use properties at Ithumba or Galdessa for the most amazing orphan elephant experience of a lifetime!

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Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1

4th June 2021

Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1


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Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1

For the first installment in what may end up being a 3-part series, covering our top ten or so ‘Groundhog Day’ properties, I thought I’d include a full service hotel in Cape Town, a luxury safari camp in Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and a small, remote tented camp in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.


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Ellerman House

In our African travels over the years, our Fish Eagle Safaris team members have visited – and re-visited – a dizzying array of safari camps, lodges, beach resorts, hotels, guest houses and bed & breakfast establishments, in 12 African countries and Madagascar.  Practically without exception, we enjoyed our stay at each of them, from the most basic mobile tented camps out in the bush to the highest of high profile deluxe city hotels.


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Ellerman House

Every once in a while, when all or most things go right and we come across a jewel of a property, we add it to our exclusive ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  These are places where we could wake up every morning for the rest of our lives, and be happy and content.  There is no checklist or set of requirements, no rules or regulations to make it onto the list.  No special award either, except for the fortunate visitors who end up spending a few days at one or more of these properties.


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Ellerman House

Ellerman House, Cape Town

One of the first properties which we elevated to ‘Groundhog Day’ status was Ellerman House in Cape Town.  It didn’t take long for us to be awed when we first arrived there several years ago, on a warm November day.   It started with the paintings along the way to our room.  Being South African-born, I was stopped dead in my tracks by a striking Transvaal landscape by J H Pierneef, likely the greatest of the old South African masters.  We soon came to realize that Ellerman House is replete with fine South African works of art, both in the main house and the dedicated contemporary art gallery which we were to discover later.


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Ellerman House

Ellerman House is also a grand mansion, once the home of shipping magnate John Ellerman and his wife Esther, better known as Lady Ellerman.  Matter of fact, we spent our first night there in a room which used to be Lady Ellerman’s art studio. Exhausted after a long transatlantic journey, all we thought we wanted to do was sleep.  Until we explored the room a bit and saw the view from our private verandah, overlooking Bantry Bay and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.


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Ellerman House

Anchored by the lush green garden in front of the hotel, the view transitions to a white sandy beach, foam-topped waves, blue-green ocean and towering cumulus clouds in the background.   We had stepped into a postcard photo.  Simply sitting there in two comfortable lounge chairs with a cold drink in hand,  we experienced what all travelers seek, yet rarely find.  A magical moment when time and place create a memory which will remain vivid in our minds, every time we think about Ellerman House.


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Ellerman House

Lady Ellerman may have just dabbled in the fine arts but her one-time art studio is now a masterpiece unto itself, as are all of the Ellerman rooms and the two adjacent private villas.  There’s simply nothing to fault:  drop dead gorgeous views, private verandahs with as much appeal as the rooms themselves, a wine experience on par with the best in the country, the finest of fine dining – for house guests only – and everything underscored by a high level of unobtrusive yet impeccable personal service.  One could write a not-so-slim volume about Ellerman House’s fascinating history, its intersection with Cape Town’s art and music scene and the remarkable socio-economic upliftment work it has done in the local and greater South African community.


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Ellerman House

On a recent visit, wanting to explore the area around the hotel, we took the Bantry Steps (there’s 156) from Kloof Road down to Ravine Road and the Florida Steps (another 142) down to  Victoria Road, which turns into Beach Road eventually.  If you run far enough, which we did.  All along the Sea Point promenade, filled with runners and walkers, tourists and locals, all occasionally pausing to take in the amazing views over the Atlantic Ocean.  Families with kids exploring some of the coves, people walking their dogs, hang gliders descending from Lion’s Head, it was an idyllic scene of people having fun and enjoying some leisure time in the bright sunshine.

Legendary Lodge


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Ellerman House

The three mile or five kilometer Sea Point Promenade – named after the best known of the areas which it fronts – starts in Granger Bay, less than a kilometer from the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.  From there it goes past the red-and-white-striped lighthouse of Mouille Point and continues to Sea Point itself before curving around to Bantry Bay.  From and back to Ellerman House, inclusive of the 596 steps down from Kloof Street and back up again, this 10 kilometer stretch is very much a ‘rave run’ –  or refreshing walk – all the way.  

On your next trip to Cape Town, consider spending a few nights at Ellerman House and like us, you may feel like waking up there, over and over again.


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Sirikoi Safari Lodge, Lewa – Kenya

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well.  The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in north-central Kenya is one of those places.  Lewa is special on many levels.  Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’.   On my most recent visit there, I felt just the same way.  Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’.  Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south.  If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe.  Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Other ways in which Lewa is special?  It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa.  Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya.  Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe.  Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.


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We use several Lewa properties for our guests including Lewa Safari Camp, Lewa Wilderness and Borana Lodge, in the adjacent (and now connected) Borana Conservancy.  A property which we had used before, but not visited ourselves until fairly recently, is Sirikoi.  Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for!  It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management.  The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality.  While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.


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With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion.  There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi.  It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.


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Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of the camp.  In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari.  I experienced just that on my last night there.  One by one a family of seven striped kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night.  Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost. 

It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.  The end of a perfect day in Africa.


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Jozibanini Camp, Hwange – Zimbabwe

A more recent addition to our Groundhog Day list is Jozibanini, a small tented camp in a remote area of Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.  Jozibanini is everything that Ellerman House is not, except that Jozi’s ‘restaurant’ is also open only to guests.  Not to take that too literally of course, seeing as the restaurant at Jozibanini is a small table and a few chairs, under the stars, in sight of an open fire-place.   Guests at Jozi will search in vain for a temperature-controlled pool, a state-of-the art gym or – perish the thought – a television set.  Jozibanini is so remote that outside communication is limited to a satellite phone.


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Instead of 5,000 plus bottles of fine wine in its cellar, Jozi can offer you thousands of stars overhead, every night.  There’s several cool beverages on offer though. Many of us enjoy fine South African vintage wines but let’s face it, a cold beer at the end of a long day on safari with many animals and nobody else around is – priceless.


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Jozibanini’s underground “look-up” blind is one-of-a-kind.  On my last visit the noisy shutter release sound on my Nikon camera spooked a large bull elephant at the water hole.  Fortunately we were safe inside the hide but it goes to show just how close you get to the animals.  Be sure to pack a quiet mirrorless camera for your trip!  If you’re feeling adventurous you can head off on a guided mountain bike ride along the elephant paths traversing the dune troughs around Jozibanini. 


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And if you’re in need of more star gazing, the beds can be rolled into the deck of the tents for an extraordinary star-bed experience gazing skyward at thousands of stars in the dark Hwange sky. By introducing tourism into this formerly deserted area, the Jozi project has helped protect vast swathes of Hwange and its wildlife, while creating more jobs for guides, camp staff, national parks employees and conservation personnel.  Go to Jozi and the people and thirsty elephants of Hwange will be forever in your debt.  If you can, travel in the cooler, dry months from about April through August.  It can get very hot in Hwange from mid-September through March.


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In our blog next week we will focus on a few more of our Groundhog Day properties in the Greater Kruger Park area, being Jabulani Safari, MalaMala Game Reserve and Royal Malewane.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Our Favorite Hotels in Cape Town

21st May 2021

Our Favorite Hotels in Cape Town


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Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

Our Favorite Hotels in Cape Town

It is almost always a good idea to start or end your Southern Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town. Cape Town, also known as the mother city, is picture-pretty and rivals San Francisco, Rio de Janeiro and Sydney for instagram-worthy photographs from practically anywhere.  Cape Town’s Table Bay and Table Mountain complex are amongst the natural wonders of the world and its stunning wine-growing area and multitude of cultural, food, sport, light adventure and water activities make it a ‘must see’ destination in South Africa.  Except perhaps in the Cape winter, from June through the end of August, when Cape Town can be downright miserable with rain, wind and cold temperatures, sometimes all of them simultaneously.   


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Table Mountain as seen from Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens

If you do have Cape Town on your wishlist, keep in mind that from about mid-December through early January it is crowded with up-country and international visitors.  For the holiday season many hotels require a minimum 5-night stay, prices are high, it’s a battle to get in and out of the Waterfront, the traffic is generally a mess and it is tough to make a reservation at many of the best restaurants.  So, quite frankly, the city is best avoided at that time of the year.  Unless, of course,  you’ve been invited to a destination wedding over that time-frame, or it’s a business-related trip, or it’s the only time you can go.


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Mt Nelson Hotel Pool

Where to stay in Cape Town?  The choices are near endless, with good to excellent accommodation options spread out all over the city itself and the surrounding suburbs.  

In the full service hotel category our favorites are the Belmond Mt. Nelson (a classic, with a great location in an area with fewer tourists than the waterfront), the Silo (stunning in every way), the Cape Grace (a gem) and the incomparable Ellerman House, likely the best hotel in Africa.  It is on our  ‘groundhog day’ list:  a place where you can wake up every day for the rest of your life and be happy….


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Mt Nelson Hotel Deluxe Room

If you prefer a small guest house or boutique hotel with a bit of local color, we have several favorites including Four Rosmead (great for self-drivers), Welgelegen (right off Kloof Street which is a lively area with lots of restaurants, clubs and bars), the Cape Cadogan (also convenient to Kloof Street) and the attractive Glen Avon in Constantia.  Constantia is a leafy, quiet suburb of Cape Town so you’d be away from the congestion of the central business district or the waterfront.  Constantia also has its own wine region with several superb wineries.  In fact it is an excellent base for touring with easy access to places like Kirstenbosch and it is right along the main route to the coast.  


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The Silo Rooftop

Yet another attractive option is to get a serviced apartment in the Victoria & Alfred  Waterfront.  It is ‘room only’ but it is of course very easy to make breakfast yourself as the apartments have fully equipped kitchens and can be pre-stocked with food items of your specification.  There are literally dozens of restaurants at the waterfront within a 10-minute walk.  It is an economical and safe choice with strict access control measures.  


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Mt Nelson Hotel – Junior Suite

Belmond Mt. Nelson Hotel

On a recent trip to Cape Town I spent four nights at the Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town and it was wonderful, as before. I am personally quite fond of ‘old world’ hotels and the Mt. Nelson is definitely that: completed in the early 1900’s and beautifully maintained since then, it has lost none of its charm even though it has all the modern conveniences including Wifi.  Known locally as the ‘Nellie’ or the ‘Pink Lady’ because of its light pink exterior paint, the property has a great setting with views of Table Mountain from the balconies of some of the rooms.  Be sure to try the high tea one afternoon – it’s the best in Southern Africa.


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Mt Nelson Hotel Entrance

The ‘Nellie’ also has a large outdoor pool, and a well-equipped spa and exercise facility – somewhat hidden and a short walk from the main area but worth exploring. The hotel is quiet, secluded and well managed; the beautiful grounds have a simply stunning palm-lined entrance. The  Mt. Nelson is a short walk to various museums and places of interest just off the Company Gardens. Breakfasts are excellent with literally dozens of options in addition to the usual full English breakfast offerings.  For winter visitors (often the case for travelers from the USA as that is prime safari time), there’s a ‘stay for 4 nights, pay for 3’ offer which will take the sting out of the not-so-great weather.


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The Silo Rooftop Dining

Silo Hotel

Awesome is an overworked word nowadays but it fits the Silo Hotel like a glove.  Over the course of a 2-night stay there some months ago, we had the most incredible time and found it to be like nothing we had ever experienced before.  The Silo is indeed awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word:  from concept to design, location, views, and the impressive Zeitz Museum Of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA).

Legendary Lodge


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The Silo Family Suite

We stayed on the 7th floor in a family duplex suite decorated in a luscious lime green and we had spectacular views of the harbor, the V & A Waterfront, Signal Hill and Table Mountain – a perfect location.  We did not want to leave the suite!  On Friday evening, we invited some friends from Cape Town to join us for drinks on the Rooftop and a delicious dinner at The Granary Café. We couldn’t resist ending the evening with champagne and chocolates in our marvellous suite – the Silo simply puts you in a celebratory mood!


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Riverwalk

Glen Avon, Constantia

On the same trip, we had a most enjoyable time at Glen Avon,  a small 5-star boutique hotel in the Constantia winelands.   It felt very private and the staff was exceptionally friendly and accommodating.  If you enjoy an ‘away from it all’ location where you can relax by the pool-side, read a book, take in the birdlife and scenic beauty and perhaps go for a walk, this would be the ideal spot.   

The three-course dinner at Glen Avon on our first night there was perfectly done and presented,  rivalled by breakfast the following morning – served outside with a beautiful view over the gardens – which was fantastic.  

Kathy and I went for a run before dinner and ended up on the Grootboskloof Riverwalk – a great opportunity to get an up close and personal feel for the charming neighborhood surrounding the hotel.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Cape Cadogan – Guest Breakfast Area

Cape Cadogan & More Quarters

Yet another small boutique hotel in Cape Town to consider, is the Cape Cadogan.  We’ve stayed at the property a couple of times and really liked what we saw and experienced.  Primarily, we recommend it because of location, being right off Kloof street which is choc-a-bloc with local restaurants, clubs, boutiques and small stores.


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Cape Cadogan – Classic Bedroom Interior

At the V & A Waterfront most other visitors you will see are also from out of town, while the Kloof Street neighborhood is frequented by lots of Capetonians.  Also, you’d be walking distance from several interesting sights including the Company Gardens where several major museums are located, the Houses of Parliament, St. George’s Cathedral and GreenMarket Square.


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More Quarters – Luxury Room

We experienced first class hospitality at the Cape Cadogan’s sister property, More Quarters, on a subsequent visit.  The rooms are well planned and spacious.  Breakfast was delicious. The management and staff were wonderful and it shares the same location advantage as the Cape Cadogan.  We returned home with a complimentary jar of Jelly Tots (everybody’s favorite)! So all round a winner:  great accommodation, food and courteous staff.


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Ellerman House

Ellerman House

So many accolades have been directed at Ellerman House, that it leaves one searching for something new or insightful to say about this immaculate property.  What the hotel says about itself is true:   you never want to leave! On our most recent visit we stayed in the Ellerman Suite and certainly enjoyed the privacy and the most incredible view of Bantry Bay.  We toured the superb art gallery which takes visitors on a journey that explores the huge social and cultural shift in South Africa from the mid-nineteenth century to present day.  We checked out the wine cellar – one of the best in Cape Town – and enjoyed a walk-through of the two exquisite villas.  As before, our meals were out of this world – we still fondly recall a particularly delicious scallop dish.


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Ellerman House

Tackling the Bantry steps on two separate occasions was worth the effort to make it down to the Sea Point Promenade for a couple of our best ever scenic runs.  Memories of these rave runs will remain vibrant in our minds until we can make it back to Ellerman House, to tackle those steps one more time, and to again experience the singular joys of spending more time in this finest of establishments.


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The Silo Superior Suite

In next week’s blog, we take a closer look at a very special African mammal, the African Painted Dog.  We’ll include  some of our favorite photographs and highlight a few of the best places in Africa where these rare, endangered predators can be found.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa

14th October 2020

Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa


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Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa

As long-time safari planners and regular African travelers, giraffes are often on our minds, or in front of our camera lenses.  Other than perhaps elephants, it is the one mammal that we get the  most questions about.  Everybody wants to see giraffes on safari.   Just like the big cats, these quintessential African mammals are high on everyone’s must see list. It is easy to see why.  They are simply spectacular in so many ways.  There’s the sheer size of them, their stilt-like elongated necks and unmistakable ‘horned’ heads literally towering above the landscape and everything else.  There’s the way they feed, drink, stare at you and run.  Pretty much everything about a giraffe is weird and worth a second look.


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Linyanti floodplain, Botswana

This photo, taken in the Linyanti area in Northern Botswana, illustrates a couple of things about giraffes and about getting useful images of them.  Be ready with the right lens.  If all you have available is a big telephoto lens, this is all you might get.  A portion of a giraffe.  Legs.  Or a head, maybe a neck and head.  So either shoot them at a good distance where they can fill the frame or use a shorter zoom lens to frame them properly.  On this day I was fortunate to have a yellow-billed oxpecker bail me out of the tight photo spot.  These birds have a symbiotic relationship with giraffes, helping them to get rid of disease-carrying ticks, food for the birds.  Even ill-equipped photographers can be the beneficiaries of symbiosis, with a bit of luck. 


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Kwara concession, Okavango Delta

When it is not possible to get the entire giraffe – or more than one – inside the frame, consider grouping together a few giraffe necks, heads or upper bodies.  Sometimes, you can get lucky and three giraffes will be facing in the same direction, with a nice cloudy background.  It doesn’t happen all the time but keep looking for such an opportunity to present itself.  Some years ago in the Kwara concession in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, I did just that, got lucky and succeeded in getting a visually pleasing shot of these three giraffes.


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Kwandwe Game Reserve, Eastern Cape

I captured this photograph of three plains giraffes feeding at Kwandwe in the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa.  It is another example of framing more than one giraffe in the same photograph, by isolating their necks and heads.  The more giraffes, the better.  Four necks may even be better than three; I’ve just not come across a suitable opportunity to try that!


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Samburu region, Kenya

There are several species of giraffe in Africa.  The three photos above have been of the most common of these, the Southern giraffe.  In north-eastern Kenya one finds what I consider to be the most handsome of the giraffe species, the Reticulated giraffe.  This photo of a few of them was taken in Samburu, a mostly stark, arid area where a good number of these endangered animals co-exist with a couple of other northern Kenyan endemics such as Grevy’s zebra and Beisa oryx. I’ve always described the Reticulated giraffe as the oil painting of giraffes, compared with the more washed out – ‘watercolor’ – Southern giraffe.  If you’ve seen Reticulated giraffes in nature, I think you will agree.  Their spots are a vivid, dark burnt orange which make the white stripes stand out even more.  Another good place to find and observe Reticulated giraffes is the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. 


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Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya

Taken in the Lewa Conservancy in northern Kenya, this photo of three Reticulated giraffes also illustrates their striking color pattern.  And my penchant for trying to get  several giraffe necks and heads in the same photo…


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Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

There is considerable disagreement among scientists as to the specific number of giraffe species.  Some maintain that there’s only one ‘giraffe’ with several subspecies.  Others contend that there are as many as eight distinct species.  A giraffe that is widely considered to be a subspecies is the Rothschild’s or Nubian giraffe.  I photographed this one walking in a yellow-barked acacia forest on the edge of Lake Nakuru in Kenya.  Full species or not, it is certainly a handsome beast with its characteristic white ‘sox’.


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Giraffe Center, Nairobi

There are several Rothschild’s giraffes at the popular Giraffe Center in Nairobi, Kenya.  The Giraffe Center is operated by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, to educate Kenyan youth about the country’s wildlife and environment and to provide visitors an opportunity to come into close contact with the giraffes. ‘Armed’ with a handful of giraffe pellets, visitors walk up a ramp to a balcony from where they can feed the giraffes at eye-level.  The giraffes know the game.  Whenever there are visitors, there are giraffes ready to stick out their crazy long tongues to retrieve a treat and be photographed.  All for a good cause.  Funds raised by the Giraffe Center have helped with efforts to re-establish the endangered Rothschild giraffe in several wilderness areas elsewhere in Kenya.


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Royal Malewane, Thornybush Reserve – South Africa

A giraffe drinking is quite a sight to behold.  This photo which I took on a game drive from Royal Malewane in South Africa illustrates the peculiar posture which a giraffe has to adopt in order to get its mouth down low enough to drink water from a pond or river.  The exact mechanism by which a giraffe gets enough water in its mouth and up its massively long neck, isn’t entirely clear. What is clear is that  giraffes are vulnerable to predation when they are drinking and they are always careful to look around for lions, before assuming the position.


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Skeleton Coast area, Namibia

A little known fact about giraffes is just how adaptable they are. As a result giraffes are widely distributed in most habitats throughout Africa, even in some areas which are inhospitable to many life-forms. On two separate visits to Namibia’s Skeleton Coast we saw several groups of desert-adapted Angolan giraffe, a sub-species concentrated around ephemeral or seasonal rivers such as the Hoarusib, Huab and Hoanib.  Wherever you see groves of acacia albida (Ana) and acacia erioloba (Camelthorn) trees, you can expect to find these giraffes.  This photo was taken on a game drive out of Wilderness Safaris’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.


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Okavango Delta, Botswana

Baby giraffes are cute.  Like most other animals.  These two youngsters were photographed on a game drive out of Wilderness Safaris’ Abu Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.  Even at a young age, giraffes adopt the typical habits of the species like being inquisitive and observant.  They can see you long before you can see them, and they fully utilize their special advantage,  always looking and staring.  When safari guides are out on game drives searching for predators, they make a point of checking out where the giraffes are looking.  If giraffes are standing still and staring consistently in the same direction, it is always a good indication that a predator is around.


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Samburu, Kenya

Giraffes are relatively common in many areas in Africa.  We always expect to see some – and sometimes many – in places like Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, pretty much all over northern Botswana, the north-eastern lowveld of South Africa including all but the far northern part of Kruger Park, and in most East African parks and game reserves.  While it is still fairly easy to see giraffes on a trip to Africa, it is a disturbing reality that giraffe numbers have decreased by 30% over the last three decades, with about  110,000 remaining.  Even though giraffes as a species are not endangered, they are considered threatened and the situation could get worse, if current trends persist.  Mostly, their numbers are dropping because of habitat loss, which happens when woodlands are converted into farms and ranches. Trophy hunting and poaching also play a role in their steady demise.  Some of the species – or subspecies – such as the Reticulated Giraffe are in fact endangered, with their numbers down more than 90% compared with earlier times.  These Reticulated giraffes photographed in Samburu in northern Kenya are nowadays found mostly in a few wildlife sanctuaries, with less than 10,000 of them surviving.

In our blog post next week, we will take a look at Africa’s signature mammal:  the African elephant.  With plenty of photographs and a few of our most indelible memories of interacting with these behemoths in all parts of Africa over the years.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2: LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

5th July 2020

KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2:
LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY


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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2:
LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well.  The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of those places.  Lewa is special on many levels.  Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’.   On my most recent visit last June, I felt just the same way.  Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’.  Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south.  If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe.  Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void.  We cannot all have a farm in Africa like Karen Blixen once did, but we can visit one – and there’s none better than Lewa.


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Other ways in which Lewa is special?  It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa.  Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya.  Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s Zebra, Beisa Oryx and Reticulated Giraffe.  Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s Zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.


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The Reticulated Giraffe I consider to be the ‘oil painting’ of giraffes, compared with the somewhat washed out ‘watercolor’ version seen elsewhere – the Plains or Masai Giraffe.  The Reticulated Giraffe is almost a dark orange with vividly demarcated lines between the color blocks.  Never to be forgotten, once seen.

Likewise the Grevy’s Zebra.  Its finely striped black and white skin pattern – without the shadow effect visible on the Burchell’s Zebra – and its white belly make it quite a handsome equine.  Its looks are marred only somewhat by the ridiculously large, mule-like ears.


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Beisa Oryx are amazing animals and while their status is also ‘endangered’, they are fairly common in Lewa. Strikingly beautiful with both males and females sporting long, thin ringed horns.  They are quite unmistakable when seen with mostly blue-grey bodies, offset by a white underside and distinctive black stripes along the side, the neck and on the face.

Finally, Lewa is special because of its remarkable achievements over the years in the field of wildlife conservation (notably rhinos and Grevy’s Zebra), and its pioneering work in community-centric conservation.  Lewa has invested heavily in both the protection of endangered species and development of its neighbouring communities to create a future where both people and wildlife can flourish.


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TUSK MARATHON – LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Late in the morning after my overnight stay in Nairobi, I was on a flight from Wilson Airport to the beautiful and very successful Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.  Having been established in 1995, Lewa/Borana is arguably Kenya’s premier example of a wildlife sanctuary where wildlife conservation, community welfare, cattle farming and hosting guests from 9 tourism properties are successfully integrated and managed by a permanent staff.

For the next 3 nights my accommodation was a rustic tented camp – Maridadi – erected close to the Lewa Headquarters, for the annual running of the Tusk Half and Full Marathon.


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Late on the first afternoon, we did a short 3 km ‘warm up’ run and afterwards enjoyed sundowners on a beautiful hill.  A few of us went on a late afternoon game drive, which turned out to be surprisingly good.  In practically no time at all, we ticked off most of the Lewa specials like Grevy’s Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Beisa Oryx and Somali Ostrich.  As well as Buffalo, Eland, and Burchell’s Zebra.


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On the second day we visited several projects supported by the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, through donations from charities such as the Tusk Foundation.  Among others, we visited a school and the Lewa Clinic. The Lewa Education Program works to provide access to quality education that improves students’ economic opportunities, in the hope that it creates a new generation of environmental stewards. I was impressed by the degree to which electronics had been incorporated into the classroom we visited.  The electronic ‘blackboard’ and the presence of so many electronic tablets would be the envy of many a school district anywhere in the world.


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On the Saturday, some 1,500 runners lined up for the start of the 20th annual Tusk Lewa Marathon and Half Marathon, one of Lewa’s major fundraising events.  The race is well organized and is a taxing, yet fun event.  It helps to be well prepared and at least somewhat acclimated to the mile-high altitude.  Add to that the heat – it was nearly 80 Fahrenheit at the start – the hills (plenty of them) and the uneven footing along rough trails, and all in all it makes for a super-tough race.


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LEWA WILDERNESS

Late in the morning after the run, I was off to Lewa Wilderness on the north-eastern edge of the conservancy.  Lewa Wilderness, which is owned and operated by the Craig family, is a jewel of a lodge with gorgeous rooms, a stunningly beautiful setting in a lush garden, views over the valley below, and simply first-class all-round hospitality.

My room – #7 – had an expansive view, tons of space, a double bed with mosquito netting, adequate lighting (but difficult to find the right on and off switches), a shower and separate toilet, and a mini-bar with soft drinks, beer and ice.  Simply a splendid place to be on safari, as one of the English guests remarked over dinner later.


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The food was excellent: I was introduced to all the other guests already in camp over a buffet lunch (curried chicken and curried vegetable dishes) with quiche, green salad, fresh bread and more.  The meal was served family style.

Dinner was roast beef with veggies, a potato dish and dessert, all delicious and perfectly prepared. Most dietary needs can be accommodated.


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I experienced a couple of game drives from Lewa Wilderness and much to my surprise saw a cheetah on both outings.  One rather skittish young male (a newcomer to the area) and another older, much more relaxed male which was stretched out on a fallen tree stump, enjoying the morning sunlight.  Another sighting of note was a few gerenuk antelope, which are more abundant in arid areas to the north, like Samburu.


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BORANA LODGE

The following couple of nights I stayed at Borana Lodge, a 9-roomed property set in the stunningly beautiful foothills of Mt. Kenya, in the Borana Conservancy, adjacent to the west of Lewa.  In 2014 the fence between the two conservancies came down, which opened up even more of a corridor for wildlife – notably elephant – for movement between Samburu in the north and Mt. Kenya in the south.  Over the last 30 years or so, elephants have impacted Lewa Wildlife Conservancy significantly, mostly by destroying huge numbers of acacia and other trees, effectively turning large tracts of mixed woodland into savanna grassland.


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Opening up adjacent areas like Borana and in future hopefully the nearby Il Nguesi area, will help to alleviate the pressure on the habitat and reverse this habitat-changing effect.  Given time, trees like the yellow barked acacia and whistling thorn acacia will bounce back and forests will naturally re-emerge.  But only if the saplings are not constantly being hammered by the elephants.

Already – during my visit – the number of elephants in the Borana Conservancy appear to be increasing relative to Lewa.  Borana being much more heavily wooded will definitely relieve the pressure on Lewa.


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The Borana Conservancy is higher, hillier and greener than Lewa.  It also has even fewer cars and people around so if solitude, splendid views and montane scenery is your thing, Borana is your spot.  While I did see a black rhino in Lewa (after several days there), I saw several in Borana, starting with my very first game drive there.  My knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide Peter soon had a female and juvenile pair of black rhinos in sight and with some deft maneuvering, I got several good shots of them, without displacing or unnecessarily alarming them.

My experience at Borana Lodge for the two nights there was most enjoyable and fun, with a mix of game drives, sundowners in scenic spots, a fun bush dinner, and spending time over lunch and breakfast with the owner, Michael Dyer.


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The lodge itself is perched on a slope of with beautiful views over blue-grey hills and verdant valleys.  Out of Africa, no doubt.  Plus the original ‘Pride Rock’ from the Lion King movie is just around the corner!  My room – #3 – was spacious with all the amenities including a bath, shower, fireplace, and two outdoor relaxation areas.

The room interior and soft finishings are due for a major ‘freshening up’: some paint, new tiles in the bathroom, new window drapes, a new color scheme – there are quite a few things which can be done to give the room a fresh look.

It is a minor point of criticism though.  The overall experience at Borana was most enjoyable with great food, friendly staff, management and expert guiding.

It appears that Borana’s cattle management and rotation scheme is quite successful at keeping the vegetation vibrant and full of life.  There are practically no areas of moribund vegetation, but this may have had something to do with the abundant recent rainfall, at the time I was there.


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LEWA SAFARI CAMP

The penultimate stop of my mega familiarization trip was the popular and highly rated Lewa Safari Camp, also operated by Elewana, located inside the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.  We do and will continue to use Lewa Safari Camp on future Kenya itineraries for many of our clients.  This visit made it clear to me why the camp works so well.  A lot of it has to do with the managing couple Sacha and Tamlyn.  During my all too brief overnight and one day there, Sacha devoted a lot of time to spend with me over lunch and dinner, talking about the area and what it has to offer to guests.  With such enthusiasm and energy as demonstrated by Sacha, it is clear to see why Lewa Safari Camp is so popular with guests.  My tented room #3 was spotlessly clean and well organized from lighting (easy on off switches), to having the best charging outlet of any camp on the trip, including no less than 4 USB charging points.  Lewa Safari Camp has an attractive pool with a view over the valley, and well-marked pathways.


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Exercise note:  It is possible to jog inside the camp perimeter on gravel pathways, along a loop totaling about 1 kilometer in distance.

En route to my final destination, I did a site inspection at Kifaru, Elewana’s luxury 5-roomed lodge.  Compact and intimate, with camp manager Andrew giving me a concise yet thorough overview of the camp.  Kifaru has a great location on top of a hill, with large and well-appointed rooms, a beautiful central area and dining room.  Room #5 appears to be the choice spot to be.


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SIRIKOI LODGE

I had long looked forward to visiting Sirikoi, my planned 2017 visit having been derailed by Hurricane Harvey.  Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for!  It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management.  The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality.  While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.


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With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion.  There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi.  It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.


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Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of camp.  In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari.  I experienced just that on my last night there.  One by one a family of seven Striped Kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night.  Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost.


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It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.

I had the most fascinating conversation with the co-owner Sue Roberts over sundowners, finding out just how the Sirikoi property came to be in their possession.  Acquiring Sirikoi ended up being a pivotal piece in making Lewa Wildlife Conservancy the vibrant and successful model of co-operative conservation that it is.  Land-owners, local government, and most importantly the community, all working together to achieve shared objectives.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

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