We’ve been sending our guests to the northern and north-central region of Kenya for many years, and fortunately most of them have enjoyed the area and what it offers as much as we do. Depending on exactly where you find yourself in the area, the views hardly ever disappoint. If it’s not the striking sight of Ololokwe, the sacred mountain of the Samburu, it could be the craggy ridge of Mt. Kenya or just blue hills fading into nothingness. Distinctively ‘out of Africa’, unquestionably romantic, and often quite mesmerizing in the early morning and late afternoon golden light. This huge swath of northern Kenya has a lot else to offer visitors, notably fascinating people and culture, some extraordinary endemic mammals and birds, and an all-round safari experience that often exceeds expectations.
Lewa Wilderness
Our long-time friend and expert Origins guide Edwin Selempo picked us up after we flew from Nairobi to Lewa. Having spent some time with him already in the Mara (more about that in our June newsletter), we jumped right into a new area with his invaluable assistance. Edwin knew what we had already experienced and helped show us something new whenever possible. We stopped by Lewa Wilderness for an inspection and lunch. The property is right near the top of the options in Lewa. Great location including being the hub for horse and camel activities in the area.
The property itself is well hidden in a small protected forested area (protected from elephants). Part of the main area still serves as a private home to the owners, and each cottage has its own beautiful view of the surrounding area. During our inspection we saw elephants and rhino on the nearby hillside, so game viewing can be done without setting foot in a safari vehicle.
Lunches are mostly served family style at Lewa Wilderness, so group dining is somewhat typical. Private dining is possible if requested but it’s typically quite nice to get to know other guests at the camp. We bumped into some guests that saw some of the same things we saw while we were in the Mara as they stayed at a neighboring safari camp in Naboisho. Small world!
Lewa House
Slightly more centrally located within Lewa, Lewa House is also family owned and operated. Calum and his wife Sophie have owned the property since 2012 and essentially all guests are hosted by one or both of them. Previously there were two-bedroom cottages and one-bedroom ‘Earth Pods’, but the cottages are being removed and turned into two-bedroom Earth Pods which will no doubt be wildly popular. They make sense for couples traveling together or families of 4 or slightly more. Plenty of room and tons of comfort. The pods themselves aren’t the best for Wi-Fi connectivity, so the best (and sometimes only) signal is available in the central living area of the two-bedroom units or the main bedroom for one bedroom units.
The quality of the wildlife viewing in Lewa is its major attraction, particularly because of the presence of several superb endemic mammals which include the stunning reticulated giraffe, the distinctive – and endangered – Grevy’s zebra as well as Beisa oryx and Somali ostrich. Lewa is also one of several private conservancies in Kenya where both black and white rhinos are thriving and where they can be seen with their horns intact.
If Lewa is the first location for a safari, guests will see more giraffes, zebras, elephants and rhinos than they can imagine. There are a couple prides of lions, quite a few leopards and a healthy population of cheetahs as well. During our 2-night stay in Lewa we managed to see several lions and we had one fleeting viewing of a single leopard.
Beyond traditional game drives, visitors to Lewa can explore the landscape on guided walking safaris, horseback riding, or unique camel treks. Adventurous guests may enjoy scenic flights or visits to the Ngare Ndare Forest for a canopy walk and waterfall swim. Cultural immersion includes Maasai village tours, while conservation enthusiasts can meet tracker dogs or visit local schools and healthcare clinics.
Sirikoi
During a site inspection of Sirikoi we were wildly impressed by both the camp itself and the back of house tour. We fully recommend a tour to see their workshop and garden to get an idea of just how much goes into running a safari camp like Sirikoi. They are fully self-sufficient. They recycle everything: from food leftovers to wine bottles. Sirikoi also has one of the largest avocado trees we’ve ever seen – absolutely loaded with fruit.
On a previous visit, we found Sirikoi to be an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management. The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality. With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms, respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion. There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi. It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat. Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of the camp.
For any slightly larger groups, we’d recommend one of their family cottages or the private house.
Kifaru House
Kifaru House is a lovely, purposefully ‘old school’ safari property in Lewa. Each of the cottages are built with wood and stone with a king sized bed plus a sitting room and extra twin bed. Even with the extra furniture, there is plenty of room to move around. The restroom is also quite large with fantastic water pressure. Entry into the room is through double doors, although we only ever opened one of the doors. With just one door open, the entry way was quite narrow. You’ll also be asked to use a key to lock the door anytime you aren’t in the room as the property has a few naughty monkeys around who have learned how to open doors.
During breakfast and lunch for guests, some extra bread and seeds are put out in front of the dining area where dozens of birds and small animals come to eat. A bit of a meal and a show. The food from Elewana continued to impress, with some of our favorite meals on the trip being served at Elephant Pepper in the Mara and Kifaru House.
Basecamp Samburu
We were pleasantly surprised with every part of our experience at the new Basecamp Samburu. Saruni/Basecamp have a winning combination of a great view, amazing staff, delicious food, slightly spartan accommodations with the most comfortable mattress on our trip, and good game viewing between their private conservancy and Samburu National Park which is about an hour away. Guests can leave early in the morning to arrive in Samburu by sunrise to enjoy the wildlife viewing along the Ewaso Nyiro River. Heading back by late morning, they can then spend the afternoon in the Kalama Conservancy itself. Within Kalama, Basecamp and Saruni have a sunken hide near a waterhole which can be an interesting spot for game viewing during the dry season.
Saruni Samburu
Unlike the many riverside lodges in the region, Saruni Samburu is perched high atop a volcanic rocky outcrop within the Kalama Conservancy, offering breathtaking, panoramic views of the Northern Frontier District. Its dramatic architecture and eco-chic luxury appeal to travelers seeking total privacy and isolation. The lodge’s dramatic cliffside setting requires steep, strenuous uphill walks between villas and the main area and in the sometimes intense Samburu heat it can be a challenge. A long, bumpy drive of 45 minutes to an hour is required to reach the prime riverside game-viewing areas in the main Samburu Reserve. Even so, many guests find the spectacular views and exclusivity of Saruni Samburu well worth the longer transit into the park.
We liked the location as much as Basecamp Samburu, but prospective visitors need to be aware of the many steps and long walks between your rooms and the main area and to the upper infinity pool which has unbelievable views of Ololokwe and Samburu. Saruni Samburu is shortly undergoing some minor renovations with new paint and new furniture.
Elephant Bedroom Camp
Like a few other properties, EBC is planning some renovations including a rebuild of their main area. We’ll see how that turns out, but at the moment it works quite well with great views of the Ewaso Nyiro River. The Elephant Bedroom tents are spacious and comfortable, although you will need an escort to and from your room both day and night because of frequent elephant activity within the camp. There are at least 6 named male elephants that regularly visit, including Obama (a docile elephant) and Mang’ati who is quite the opposite.
The area near Elephant Bedroom Camp is also consistently one of the hot spots for all of the wildlife in Samburu. So even though you might not be driving too far if you stay somewhere else, you’ll probably end up somewhere near this camp during a game drive. On a previous visit a couple of years ago, Bert and Kathy witnessed a female cheetah taking down a young Grant’s gazelle less than half a mile from the entrance to the camp. The female cheetah had some hungry cubs to feed. On that same day leopards, lions and African painted dogs were all seen at one time or another in the same area.
Samburu Intrepids
Samburu Intrepids, very similar in terms of style and size to its sister property Mara Intrepids, could be an option for guests and groups that are looking for a safari experience at a lower price point. Even though the property is larger than most with 28 rooms strung out along the Ewaso Nyiro, guests generally rate it favorably in terms of offering an authentic wilderness experience. Guests frequently praise the attentive, “above and beyond” staff and the camp’s pretty riverside location, which allows for wildlife viewing from one’s own private deck. On previous visits, we’ve noticed consistently good management, generally excellent food offerings and highly experienced safari guides.
Soroi Larsens Camp Samburu
The new Soroi Larsens Camp is well located along the Ewaso Nyiro River in Samburu. It is quite central in the park with quick access to the west or the east depending on where wildlife is spotted. The western area has a ridge where leopards are often seen and the eastern area has some slightly more open areas with more lion and cheetah sightings. During our short stay, we managed to see lions, cheetah (mother and cubs with a kill), and a striped hyena along with all of the traditional plains game.
The camp itself is quite uniquely laid out compared with others along the same river. Winding concrete pathways lead you to all of the different areas and tents. The spa and pool are set back a bit, away from the river. The main dining area and most of the rooms are set a bit closer to the river. We were upgraded to the deluxe rooms all the way at the end of the property which has its own car park in case guests don’t want to walk all the way. The walkway to the last two units is also no longer in the shade of the large trees along the river. In Samburu things can get quite hot, so staying in the shade is important when possible.
Food, comfort, and staff at Larsens were all excellent. The standard rooms are significantly larger than most tented rooms we’ve seen during the trip. This would make a perfect option for all guests visiting Samburu – families, couples, and small groups.
For some fresh, up-to-date information and advice about traveling to Lewa and Samburu, reach out to Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service any time – day or night – at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222 and one of us will call you back.
All photos provided by their respective properties unless otherwise noted.
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