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A Return to Samara Karoo

A Summer Winter in Africa: Part 7

A Return to Samara Karoo

A few of my Samara Karoo photos from our second (June 2026) visit to the stunning  Karoo Lodge looked like they were taken on Maui. The area had experienced abundant rainfall over the last several months which turned the ordinarily sparsely vegetated semi-desert area into a lush paradise, particularly along the rivers and streams. Even the shallowest of depressions turned into mini-lakes. 

What really set the photos apart though, was the backdrop. The beautiful Camdeboo Mountains of the Great Karoo. Almost immediately I started seeing mammals with mountains in the background. Great big beautiful blue painting-worthy mountains just sitting there. There’s not more than a handful of other safari locations anywhere in Africa where photos and videos like these can be taken. Elephants, giraffes, oryx, waterbuck and – wait for it – cheetahs with mountains behind. Next time – lions.  

Cheetahs on foot

The signature Samara Karoo experience is seeing cheetahs on foot. On our first visit in 2024 we ran out the clock looking for them, the issues being too little time (a 2-night visit) and a particularly windy day which resulted in the cheetahs seeking cover in the hills. The second time was the charm. It took a couple of hours but our capable team of Mzi (naturalist guide) and Michael (tracker) located a female cheetah with six cubs along the far eastern edge of the reserve.  

Alighting from the Land Cruiser, we approached the cats on foot, quietly and slowly so as to not alarm or disturb them. The sun was already high in the sky so the light was quite harsh. Even so I managed a few captures of the mother and one or two of the 7-month old youngsters.  

Being on foot quite close to them was a novel experience. Cheetahs are pretty special cats to see under any circumstances and to be able to approach them like this was next level. Getting right down in the damp Karoo vegetation, I had several furry faces casually looking in my direction at their eye level. Mostly, to be sure, they ignored the camera and focused on being cheetahs in the Karoo. The activity is done in a circumspect manner so as not to alarm or displace them.

Picnic on the Kondoa Plateau

From the cheetahs on the Camdeboo plains we drove right up into the slopes of Kondoa Mountain along a gravelly, at times bumpy, track taking us about 2,000 feet up into a quite different habitat: montane grassland. Sometimes referred to as the Samara Mara, the Kondoa Plateau is a haven for animals such as the Cape mountain zebra, black wildebeest, eland, springbok and gemsbok. On a previous trip up to the same spot, we came upon a fresh lion kill (an eland) just off the mountain track. Not so this time, but we had several good sightings of the very special mountain zebras and black wildebeest.

Unbeknownst to us a culinary team from Samara had set up an elaborate al fresco lunch for us and all the other Samara guests, complete with tables and chairs, umbrellas, a wash-up station and a small bush loo. What they didn’t have to set up or bring from camp was the view. It was there and waiting in every direction. The most stupendous views one could ever hope to see, over the Camdeboo valley to the left and Honey Mountain in the far distance. The food was pretty good too: beef kabobs, curried chicken sandwiches, mini quiches, apple crumble mousse and a mixed green salad.

Walking with giraffes – and more cheetah photos

Back on the plains we bumped into a journey of nine giraffes. I was on a quest to get a few more Samara mammal images with mountains in the background and this looked like a good opportunity. To get the right angle, I asked Mzi to stop the vehicle and I hopped off, walking some 50 meters or so to the left of the track. The moment we got out of the vehicle, every single one of the giraffes stopped and turned their heads in our direction. I was quietly hoping that they would move closer together  which they promptly did. In the end I managed a few good exposures with more than just one long neck in the frame. And, as importantly, with mountains in the background!

After promptly dealing with a flat tire, we made our way back to where we’d last seen the family of cheetahs. This time around the late afternoon light was ideal. Spending almost an entire hour observing them with nobody else around was one of the highlights of our stay at Samara. While the cheetahs were not particularly active or highly mobile there were plenty of photo opportunities. As close as we were to them, we were able to truly appreciate the close bond between siblings and collectively with their mother. They were purring and snuggling up to each other and the strength of the familial bond was quite apparent.  

Lions in every direction

No African safari is truly complete without a lion sighting. On our second full day at Samara we were all geared up for a walking safari when two male lions caught our attention. They made it quite impossible for us to ignore them with a ‘competitive roaring’ display like none we’ve ever heard before. First the dominant black-maned Kalahari lion – which had the run of the reserve the last few years or so – started roaring not far from camp. This was shortly followed by an equally vociferous roaring display by an interloper, an equally impressive tawny male which had recently expanded his range. The new arrival was now challenging the established male for mating rights with the female lions, creating an ongoing conflict, which is what we inadvertently stumbled into. We promptly pivoted from walking to following roaring lions around. An easy decision. Anticipating a clash, we followed the dominant male as he stalked through the woodland, determinedly marking his territory. 

When the dominant male suddenly veered off in a different direction our focus shifted to the intruder. To be sure, this powerful male lion was not acting like an intruder at all. He was lying on a rocky slope in broad daylight, roaring away at the top of his clearly powerful lungs. It was a territorial roaring display for the ages. At one stage he was roaring and continued to do so while lying on his side and rolling over on his back. All of which were signals  to his rival that he was not about to back down. The saga continues.

A different group of cheetahs

On our final afternoon game drive at Samara, we came upon a different group of four subadult cheetah siblings. It ended up being an equally good sighting with the four cats moving from our right to our left in beautiful light, and with mountains in the background. Watching them gracefully move through the grass, barely glancing in our direction, was nature at its finest. Eventually they moved right by us toward an old brick structure, a relic from pre-Samara days when the area was a sheep farm. Clambering up the crumbling structure, the cheetahs did what cheetahs do: found a high spot to check for potential prey animals in the distance. It was getting dark so we left them behind and started the trip back to camp. It was the end of a great day on safari. 

A fence is not just a fence

Fences have been coming down in wildlife sanctuaries all over Africa and elsewhere for many years now. There is general agreement that wildlife does better and survives better when they can move around freely. When mammals are able to move from one area to another for grazing or browsing, it allows grasses and other vegetation to recover and it prevents long-term damage to the environment which can take decades to recover.  

At Samara, internal fences separating former livestock farms were likewise dismantled to allow seamless animal movement. The reserve’s high perimeter game fences – which visitors see when entering and leaving and occasionally during game drives – were erected to prevent human-wildlife conflict on neighboring livestock properties. If Samara’s wild lions or elephants were to make it onto neighboring farms, the consequences could be severe, perhaps even leading to retaliatory killing. In an environment like the Karoo and elsewhere, it makes effective conservation virtually impossible without perimeter separation. 

It’s understandable, even predictable, to instinctively dislike high fences in natural landscapes. Superficially, it creates an impression of a private enclosure which runs contrary to the idea of “wild” Africa. However, it is best to think of a fence as a temporary shield. Right now, in many places all over Africa, wildlife surrounded by farms or towns won’t survive without a border to stop poaching and retaliatory killing. These fenced reserves serve as safe refuges where ecosystems recover. The ultimate goal isn’t to lock the animals  in forever. Rather, the long-term objective is  to secure these pockets today so they can be linked into open corridors later.  

In an increasingly fragmented world, these protected, isolated pockets are a vital element in the future of conservation. Samara’s overarching vision is to establish ecological corridors connecting the reserve to three nearby national parks, namely Camdeboo, Mountain Zebra, and Karoo National Park. When this comes to fruition it will form a massive 1.3-million-acre protected area. Sufficient conservation space to restore historical wildlife migrations while allowing sustainable agriculture alongside protected wilderness.  

Breakfast with Samara GM Marnus Ochse

Over breakfast on the large covered stoep at Karoo Lodge with Samara’s genial General Manager Marnus Ochse, the discussion ranged from lion dynamics on the reserve (a hot topic during our stay), to Samara’s world class coffee offerings, to brown hyenas and leopards. Being an accomplished amateur photographer himself, Marnus and I had plenty of stories to share. From dropping cameras to getting lions framed with the Camdeboo Mountains in the background. 

Marnus also talked about the reserve’s core principles which broadly center around the global “4 C’s” framework (Conservation, Community, Culture and Commerce) and  Samara’s partnership with The Long Run. The bottom line: one cannot successfully run a luxury eco-tourism business or protect a landscape without actively integrating and supporting all four. 

Marnus was particularly proud of  the role of the Samara staff members, describing it as fundamental to its rewilding mission. He considers every team member – from management and guides to kitchen staff – to be equal parts of the mission. As we have noted during conversations with staff members on both our visits, everyone understands why the reserve exists and what it strives to accomplish.

In a previous blog post I wrote in some length about Samara’s history and about the Tompkins family who set this monumental conservation project in motion. Their ambitious aims for restoration of biodiversity in the Great Karoo are now a reality. Several large mammals long absent from the area, some for as many as 180 years, are now back and thriving. Wild lions, elephants, cheetahs and buffaloes once again roaming the Karoo. What’s next? If and when the reserve reaches 100,000 acres (it currently stands at 67,000 acres) one might expect to see a few African painted dogs  join the predator mix.  

Beyond the wildlife, Samara offers a consistently excellent guest experience all round. From its accommodation options (Karoo Lodge, Plains Camp and the exclusive-use Manor) to food and beverage offerings, activities and amenities. Even more so than during our first visit, the entire experience was flawless with every staff member being warm and approachable and making us  feel truly welcome. 

Samara is currently offering an attractive long-stay deal (Stay 3 nights, pay for 2) through the end of September 2026, as well as other special offers which include free commercial flights from and back to either Johannesburg or Cape Town, and inclusive of r/t road transfers from Port Elizabeth Airport to the Reserve. For more information about these or for recommendations regarding combining Samara with other South Africa safari properties such as Tswalu Kalahari or one of the Eastern Cape reserves like Kwandwe or Shamwari or Lalibela, contact Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222.

Property photo courtesy Samara Karoo

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Tswalu Kalahari: the Loapi Experience

A Summer Winter in Africa: Part 6

Tswalu Kalahari: the Loapi experience

It was quiet in our open safari vehicle driving south out of Loapi Camp in Tswalu Kalahari on a cold morning in late June. It was also early and the four of us (guide Michaela, tracker Piet and Kathy and I) were still easing into a new day. Finishing up a mug of coffee to go, tugging on a hoodie to cut the bite of the Kalahari winter chill. Inserting a freshly charged battery in a camera.

As we drove along the red sandy track, the rising sun not quite cresting some hills on our left, our eyes adjusting to the steadily growing influx of light, we promptly fell under the spell of the Kalahari. Entranced by the soft dawn light, blue Korannaberg Mountains in the background and verdant expanse of acacia bush, sun-scorched grass and shepherd trees rippling away to the very limit of human sight. 

I think every one of us on the vehicle realized the near impossibility of being more away, more alone, more private than that. Just us and the wilderness at a perfect moment in time. Nothing and everything at the same time. 

Almost as if on cue, the fidgeting stopped. Conversation became superfluous. Nobody looked at each other. Yet we all sensed what had happened. The calmness and beauty of the surroundings had permeated our very core. Almost as if we had become one with nature. If it weren’t for the soft whining of the Landcruiser engine, the modern fabrics and our tech-laden devices, we might as well have been back in the late Pleistocene epoch some 20,000 years ago, when this part of Southern Africa transitioned from wetland to dry savanna.  

Achieving that feeling of being immersed in the environment, finding that place of peace and privacy and realizing that off-the-map experience is what we strive to include in every one of our customized Africa itineraries. To one degree or another. In a high adrenaline ‘Big Five’ wildlife setting it is not always achievable but in areas like Samara in the Great Karoo and at Tswalu in the northern Cape Kalahari, it is there, always. Waiting for you around every corner.

Wildlife at Tswalu 

For the first 40 minutes or so on that morning drive, there was hardly an animal in sight but it did not matter. Clearly they were cold too and staying in thick cover. Then we started to see them. First giraffes, then mountain zebras, gemsbok, kudu and springbok. We were particularly thrilled to come across a non-habituated family of meerkats which stared at us from a distance in their own inimitable way, standing straight up on their hind legs. 

The previous day our afternoon game drive had started with a bang. Barely out of camp we bumped into two beautiful white rhino bulls, strutting around a salt lick,  their impressive horns perfectly intact. A major consideration nowadays with so many other South African reserves dehorning their rhinos. 

Twice during our short stay at Tswalu we came across lions. While different, the two experiences were equally fascinating and fulfilling from a wildlife viewing perspective. On the first afternoon we followed up on a pride of lions which had brought down an eland early that morning. We found all of the lions, and what was left of the eland. Not much, to be sure. Several of the lions continued feeding, either by themselves, and notably, an impressively maned male which uncharacteristically allowed a young cub to continue feeding in tandem. 

Our final morning drive delivered yet another excellent lion sighting when we followed the tracks and then eventually came across two female lions in hunting mode. They were checking the dense acacia thickets along a narrow track, poking their noses into the undergrowth to locate or flush one of the many antelopes hidden away there. Watching them walk right by our vehicle was a visual treat. Passing right by us with hardly a sidelong glance, their powerful back muscles rippled under the tawny coats. At around 4.5 years old, the two sisters were in their prime, projecting total confidence and competence. Clearly at the top of their game, each having left three cubs in a safe area while making this hunting sortie. 

Another highlight was spending some time with a female cheetah and her three sub-adult cubs. Initially lying down in the shade, they eventually got up and relocated, providing me with a brief yet useful opportunity to get a few more low level photographs. 

On previous trips to Tswalu we had also come across an aardvark, one of the property’s signature mammals. This time around they were much more difficult to find and observe, due to the rank vegetation prevalent at the time, following an exceptionally good rainy season. The same was true of black rhino.  

My best advice to future Tswalu guests is to spend a minimum of four nights there. It’s a massive reserve and to give yourself a realistic chance to find elusive species like black rhinos and largely nocturnal ones like aardvark, you will need time and patience. Due to the immense size of the reserve (118,000 hectares, equivalent to 292,000 acres) the animals at Tswalu are widely spread out. It’s not unusual for the guides to target only one signature species per outing. While it’s entirely possible to have several amazing sightings on one game drive, there are bound to be slow ones when the desired ‘signature’ sighting doesn’t materialize. Set your expectations accordingly. Fortunately all guests at Tswalu automatically get a private vehicle and guide so you can remain entirely flexible in terms of timing and duration of game drives, inclusion of night drives, a meerkat experience, horseback riding and more. 

Guiding and hospitality at Loapi

Tswalu is renowned for its consistently excellent hospitality with a high ratio of staff to guests, first class accommodation options and sophisticated food and beverage offerings. The guiding cadre is likewise top tier with a guiding stint at Tswalu being highly sought after. 

On our third visit to the property we spent a couple of nights at one of their deluxe Loapi units, essentially a mini private camp within a camp. Complete with a kitchen, coffee machine, milk frother, refrigerator, dishwasher, bar with stools, table for 4, a wet bar with wine fridge filled with wine and soft drinks, various spirits and mixers, an outdoor dining area, outdoor sala with heated splash pool, indoor and outdoor fireplace, private study with desk, living room with couch and chairs, guest toilet, separately air conditioned master bedroom with recessed daybed with window, a boomer-proof safe, two bedside tables and a chair, a bathroom with two sinks, walk-in shower and outdoor shower, and a dressing room with an ottoman, as well as a separate toilet. 

We hardly had enough time to look at, never mind experience all of these features and enhancements so I’m reluctant to be critical in any way. The one thing I would have liked to see either inside or outside the room is a standalone tub. In this setting and in a property of this quality, it seems like a no-brainer. I suspect that water conservation may have played a role in the decision to go with inside and outside showers only. 

The four one-bedroom and two two-bedroom Loapi suites each have a dedicated team of four staff members assisting guests. A professional guide and tracker team, a professional chef and an homathi (house manager). Our private chef Mathew prepared several sterling meals including a delicious oxtail and a fantastic breakfast on our day of departure. Our homathi Dries was as personable and delightful a person as one could wish to meet.  

Our Tswalu guide Michaela impressed us from the word go with her confidence and joie de vivre. She and tracker Piet made a formidable team and between them we didn’t miss a thing. Lion tracks, rhinos dragging their lower lips, ultra-distant kudus against the skyline, finding cheetahs in the thickets, the tiniest of birds – we got them all. It would not surprise us in the least to see Michaela take on a leadership role in her field. 

New developments at Tswalu 

We were fortunate to be shown around Tswalu’s original and best known lodge – the Motse – by ebullient GM Pietro Addis. At the time the Motse was just days away from reopening after a major, top-to-bottom architectural refashioning. Most graciously, despite being wanted in more than just one meeting at that very minute, Pietro focused on us to the exclusion of everything else. He gave us the insider’s view on every facet of the renovation from the state-of-the-art new workout equipment in the gym to the maps which once graced the canopy of the four poster beds. They’re gone.  

Over the preceding six months the camp’s main areas, shared outside spaces and rooms have been attractively and thoughtfully renovated and enhanced. Returning guests don’t have to worry: the Motse is still the classic safari camp which they’ve been visiting all these years. It’s just a little bit lighter all round with white tones inside and out. Some of the spaces in the main lounge and dining area have been reconfigured in a practical and we think most pleasing way. The front entrance also now works a lot better than before. Even more so than previously, the main area and the rooms harmonize beautifully with the surrounding Kalahari landscape.

Tswalu also completed a soft refurbishment of its exclusive-use Tarkuni homestead in April this year. The updates include redesigned open-plan lounge and dining areas, a new mezzanine lounge, and a refined outdoor retreat space. The five en-suite bedrooms and bathrooms were also updated with new linens, curtains, and tactile, natural materials. 

A fine dining experience at Boscia House

On our last night at Tswalu, at the conclusion of our afternoon game drive, Michaela dropped us off at a small homestead, with several prominent Boscia (shepherd’s trees) in the vicinity. Boscia House is a restored, century-old frontier farmhouse, formerly home to Michelin-starred chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s Klein JAN dining experience. In its new, evolving iteration Boscia House is a quaint, peaceful setting for a multi-course dinner with expert local wine pairings. Dining here is a culinary adventure from start to finish. The seven-course tasting menu which we enjoyed incorporated several local ingredients, some of which are foraged, and it illustrates a deep respect for the area’s heritage foods and local culture. Tswalu’s guests get to enjoy one complimentary dinner at Boscia House during their stay, adding a unique dimension to a safari of a lifetime in the northern Cape Kalahari. 

Here are some notes about the courses in the order they were served, the wine pairing and a few photos. 

Brioche bread with marmite butter, rolled in biltong dust

This uber-South African flavor-bomb, served on a skewer in the style of a lollipop, appealed to the 7-year old small-town boy in me with the unmistakable slightly earthy, somewhat salty hint of Marmite blending beautifully with locally made butter in a brioche crumb square, rolled in fine biltong dust. Biltong being the ubiquitous South African dried meat snack. Food doesn’t get any more nostalgic than that, or more playful. The taste sensation of that single canape was worth coming all this way.   

Mopane worm and lemon butter with amagwinya 

Amagwinya (locally known as vetkoek which can be loosely translated as ‘fat cake’) is a humble South African comfort food. In many other parts of Africa, India and elsewhere similar ‘fried dough’ iterations serve as the basis of hundreds of varieties of delectable street food. On this evening at Boscia it was elevated into a mini work of art with the addition of a smear of aromatic-infused mopane worm paste and a dab of bright lemon butter. Like practically everything on the menu it was unusual, innovative and absolutely palate-pleasing.  

Spekboom gazpacho with frozen apple, melon, cucumber and goat cheese 

This highly visual, even theatrical take on a cold soup was my personal favorite of all the courses served. Mostly because of the textural variety and the totally unexpected yet exhilarating temperature contrast and interplay between the extremely thinly sliced frozen apple and melon with the other ingredients. In an ensemble with spekboom (a crisp, citrusy local succulent) and an exquisite local goat cheese, this gazpacho is the stuff of culinary dreams.  

Potato with leek, corn and mesquite bean

By this point in the meal, I was not surprised to experience the novel way in which such relatively humble ingredients – potato and corn – were transformed into a stunning mid-course dish. Again, the textural diversity was superb and the mesquite beans added a distinctly smoky, slightly sweet and nutty flavor.  

Ostrich medallions with baby corn, vanilla, saffron, cabbage 

Game meat (such as kudu, gemsbok loin or ostrich) is often the centerpiece of the main course at Boscia. The ostrich medallions on this night were perfectly seared and incredibly lean yet tender as can be. Paired with some savory cabbage it created a show-stopping main course which was satisfying and not at all heavy, as can sometimes be the case with game. 

Sago pudding with rooibos, soetkoekie and orange 

The dessert course at Boscia was a heritage-laden sago pudding; something which might have been served by one’s grandmother around a traditional coal stove in South Africa in years gone by. This particular sago pudding with cinnamon, tiny orange slices and crumbled cookie, was totally dreamy without being overly sugary or cloying. Just the right level of cinnamon and sweetness with a hint of rooibos tea, rekindling the familial warmth and kinship of the family dining table.  

Mesquite tree coffee with coconut sugar and an infused raisin.  

Kathy and I don’t habitually experiment much beyond decaf Americano and cappuccino so we had to be gently cajoled into ending the wonderful meal with a shot of mesquite tree coffee. Hearing that it was naturally caffeine-free helped. Just as well that we set our initial misgivings aside. The naturally sweet, nutty, and slightly caramelized flavors of the roasted mesquite pods were satisfyingly coffee-like while being completely new to our palate. It was served on a tiny bed of coconut sugar ‘Kalahari sand’ with an infused raisin as a faux springbok pellet, on the side. Storytelling and local culture intertwined in an entertaining and playful manner – the ideal end to our delightful dinner at Boscia House.   

The accompanying wine selection included the following:

  • Lowerland Vaalkameel 2024
  • Jan White Blend 2025
  • Koedoe Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
  • Jan Red Blend 2023
  • Die Mas Chardonnay 2023
  • Prins Ben Muratie Cape Ruby
  • Orange River Cellars Hanepoot

Planning a Tswalu Kalahari visit

We had not seen the Kalahari looking this good in a very long time. It did not come as a surprise, with as much as twice the average summer rainfall having been recorded in the northern Cape Kalahari this year. It augurs well for Tswalu for the remainder of this year and likely well into 2027, even if the next rainy season falls short of expectations. So if you want to experience the Kalahari at its best, this fall or next winter may be particularly good opportunities to head there.  

Beyond its fascinating mix of wildlife, superb accommodation, expert guiding, and as much privacy as you can imagine – and not forgetting its culinary prowess – Tswalu is also a visionary conservation project. Over the course of the past 31 years it has become the very model of ecological restoration in South Africa, protecting diverse habitats and fauna and flora, including many rare and endangered species. 

Email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to find out more about traveling to Tswalu to experience its remarkable diversity and unique experiences and to become involved in the ongoing scientific research supported by the Oppenheimer family and Tswalu Foundation. 

Tswalu property photos provided by Tswalu.

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Taking the Ferry to Robben Island, Cape Town

A Summer Winter in Africa: Part 5

Taking the ferry to Robben Island, Cape Town

Taking a ferry from Cape Town to the Robben Island Maximum Security Complex rekindles memories – at least for South African born visitors – of a tumultuous time in the country’s history when Nelson Mandela was released from prison in February 1990. Four years later he would become South Africa’s first democratically elected leader.  

For Mr. Mandela to walk out of prison in a reconciliatory mood, having been incarcerated by the South African government for 27 years,  underscores what a remarkable man he was. His autobiography – A Long Walk to Freedom – covers his early years in a rural part of the Eastern Cape, his legal career and the long struggle against apartheid. It has fascinating yet stark, sobering details about his 18-year stay in the Robben Island Maximum Security Prison. Mandela’s memoir reads like a novel. At 700+ pages it’s quite the tome but if you’re not distracted by any movies you can read it in one sitting flying from Atlanta to Joburg. Or vice versa. 

The Robben Island excursion starts at the docks in Cape Town Harbor at the Nelson Mandela Gateway, just steps away from the Clock Tower. After a thorough security check, anywhere from 150 to 280 persons (depending on the day) board one of the two ferries operated by the Robben Island Museum. In the low season (May through August) there are usually three departures per day (9 am, 11 am and 1 pm), subject to weather conditions. In summer an additional fourth departure is added. The current price for a round trip ticket which includes a guided tour on a 52-seater bus and a guided walking tour of the Maximum Security Prison is ZAR600 or about $45 for foreign nationals. 

The 45-minute cruise from the harbor to the Robben Island jetty is worth the price of admission – if only for the stupendous views towards the city and Table Mountain in the background. So don’t forget to look back towards the city on your way out. You’ll get a second shot at taking that perfect, classic shot of Table Mountain and the city bowl – as well as Lions Head – on the way back. 

Once on the island, we were given a short briefing and then boarded three large buses for the first part of what ended up being a 2-hour tour. The bus tour route includes the graveyard of people who died from leprosy, the lime quarry, Robert Sobukwe’s house, the bluestone quarry, the army and navy bunkers and the Maximum Security Prison. At each stop the tour guide provided brief background information.  

With the exception of a 10-minute stop to buy some drinks or snacks and to use the restroom, there are no opportunities to disembark from the bus during the first part of the tour. While photography is allowed, it is awkward if not downright impossible to get more than a few snapshots during the bus ride. 

Every seat on the bus, which has a 2-3 seating layout, was taken. If you want to give yourself at least half a chance to take a few photographs, shoot for a window seat on either side. 

The visit to Robben Island culminates with a look at the tiny cell where Mandela spent 18 years essentially in isolation. There he secretly wrote – mostly late at night – several chapters of his autobiography, A Long Walk to Freedom. Edited with the help of fellow political prisoners like Walter Sisulu and Ahmed Kathrada, the manuscript was buried in the prison garden, wrapped in plastic, until it was eventually smuggled out of the facility. 

The second part of the tour – which is also the most interesting – is guided and narrated by a former inmate of Robben Island. In our instance someone who had spent six years there, having been convicted of sabotage. Which – as he told us – took the form of arson. He and a few of his friends thought it would be a good idea to torch their neighborhood rent collection office, thus destroying all records of who owed what. 

Unfortunately the guide had to essentially shout out the sometimes fascinating information he was trying to impart, due to the unwieldy group size of at least 50 persons. I can’t help but think that the entire Robben Island experience would be much better and more meaningful if the group sizes could be reduced.

Being inside one of the erstwhile prison’s large, depressingly institutional cell blocks, was the closest I personally came to imagining what the experience might have been like in real life. Yet it was a fleeting moment, the size of the crowd obliterating any possibility of proper interaction with the guide. An opportunity missed.  

The ferry trip back to the harbor was a little more adventurous with the ocean swell having increased to about two meters by then. There was an occasional squeal from a few youngsters (a French-speaking school group) but fortunately no one was affected too badly. The approximately 11 km (7 mile) trip back took just about 45 minutes and the total elapsed time for the entire excursion ended up being just shy of 4.5 hours. 

Public or private visit?

A visit to Robben Island is of course not about the bricks and mortar, the ferry ride itself, or the temperature on the day. Just like a visit to the Genocide Museum in Kigali, it is meant to be a reality check. A statement about a time when, and a place where, the human rights and political ambitions of thousands – even millions – of people were officially trampled and willfully oppressed. At great moral and material cost to both perpetrators and victims. And with sometimes horrific consequences including tragic loss of life and limb, banishment and imprisonment under unnecessarily harsh conditions. 

Seen from that perspective some visitors will no doubt overlook some of the glaring shortcomings of the public tour, as it currently unfolds. 

Our view is that guests should rather book a private tour of Robben Island. You will board the regular ferry (accompanied by your Cape Town guide), do the crossing, and will then be met on the island by a private vehicle and guide who will do the tour with you. At the end of the tour it’s back to Cape Town on the scheduled ferry. The cost will be considerably higher, in the region of $300 per person, but it will be a meaningful and memorable experience. There will be ample opportunities for one-on-one interaction with your knowledgeable Robben Island guides and for proper photographs to commemorate the experience. 

A few practical hints 

  • Book early. Particularly during the South African summer months and over the year-end holiday season, tickets sell out well in advance.  
  • At the Nelson Mandela Museum boarding point (close to the clock tower) you’ll need to produce a photo ID and your digital ticket for scanning. 
  • Cape Town weather is unpredictable so always pack a water resistant jacket. Maximum temperatures hover around mid 50’s to low 60’s F in winter. There’s bound to be a wind chill effect.  
  • Upper deck seating on the ferry has better views (and no windows) so make your way up there and – if they’re not wet from rain – select a seat closest to the railings for the best unobstructed views. 
  • The ocean swell of just less than 2 meters which we experienced is about average for the Cape Town waters. It can get worse. So if you’re prone to seasickness take your Dramamine in good time.  
  • The restrooms on the ferry (downstairs) are perfectly fine as are the ones close to the jetty, once you arrive on the island. It is probably best to schedule a pit stop prior to boarding the 45-minute bus ride. Reason being that the restroom stop which is scheduled towards the end of the bus ride is brief and both the men’s and women’s facilities each have just two stalls.

Bert can answer any questions you may have about visiting Robben Island. Please call our office at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222 and leave a message or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for more information.

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Exploring Kenya’s Masai Mara and Watamu: Part 2

Exploring Kenya’s Masai Mara and Watamu: Part 2

By Jason Duplessis 

Naboisho Conservancy 

Mara Nyika

We had to take a slightly longer than usual route to Mara Nyika due to flooding and damaged bridges between the Mara North and Olare Motorogi Conservancies but we arrived in time for lunch. Mara Nyika camp has a very opulent feel. Each piece of furniture and everything displayed has a story and helps nurture the feeling of truly being on safari. The main area is cozy and relatively small but with options to relax in many different areas including a library and wine room.

Lunch was excellent, fresh and light. All menu items are brought to the table. We were served some very nice vegetarian options and I believe if we stated we were vegetarians they would have an extra protein dish available. There was superb attention to detail with everything at the camp and we felt like we were in good hands throughout. Chef Charles did an amazing job, and Mambo and Naomi were very welcoming and helpful during our short stay.

Katie booked a massage which took place in the room just behind the bed. Two thumbs up if you have the extra time for a spa treatment.

The rooms themselves are triple the size of a traditional Meru style tent, as they are essentially three Meru tents connected together. A study/ante-room, a bedroom and a bathroom with a bath tub and enough room to do a cartwheel as there was no glass or partition for the shower area. If you’ve got more than one night like we did, you might remember where you put things. We ended up moving back and forth between rooms a bit more as we weren’t used to such large rooms.

Our guide Malinge – who holds a Gold level guide qualification from the Kenya Professional Safari Guides’ Association – is originally from Watamu which we would visit later on. With Malinga in charge, we made a great start to our game viewing in Naboisho. It would prove to be the best area yet.

Saruni Leopard Hill and Eagle View

Our site inspections of Leopard Hill and Eagle View were back-to-back and rather quick with much of the same information. We liked Eagle View the best and that’s also been the experience of other members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team who had visited earlier. An amazing view over a salt lick, recently rebuilt rooms which are excellent with a new and somewhat interesting layout. The restroom is slightly open towards the bedroom but the toilets are enclosed for a bit of privacy. Good for couples but possibly less than ideal for friends sharing a room together. No clear delineation between the bedroom and the shower/tub area.

Their small gift shop was nice, with  several items from a few of their sponsored ladies from local villages.

Kicheche Valley

We were lucky enough to stay a couple nights at Kicheche Valley which might have been the deciding factor in it being our favorite camp in Naboisho. There really was something special about the camp and the staff. Everything was well laid out and they’re refurbishing the main area soon so it will be even better. The rooms were also ideal in size and very comfortable. If we could find anything to complain about it might be the showers, which had some temperature control issues. The vehicles had a few handles missing and not everything was working properly. This was probably to be expected towards the tail end of the season, considering the beating the vehicles are subjected to day in and day out. 

Every staff member already knew our names before we arrived. While we had our initial lunch on our own we soon met some fantastic people who shared the vehicle with us. We enjoyed sitting together at subsequent meals, family style.

While at Kicheche Valley, we had both plated and buffet meals. The camp’s excellent attention to detail once again came to the fore. One guest didn’t like cucumbers and they made separate dishes and garnishes for him. Camp manager Anita joined us for most meals as well and she always had a few interesting stories to tell. Breakfasts were almost always bush breakfasts. We would fill out a ‘to-go’ breakfast card with what we wanted and it would be in a tin ready to eat at breakfast time. Our guide Vivian set up a table and stools each morning in a nice spot and we ate together with some fresh coffee and tea. We could then continue our morning safari as long as we wanted before heading back to camp for lunch.

Game viewing was also excellent: high density of general plains game, plenty of lions including cubs, hyenas with cubs, newborn gazelles and zebras and others. Always something new, and Naboisho really delivered.

Hemingways Ol Seki

We met up with the other members of the familiarization tour group upon arrival at Ol Seki. The timing was perfect during transit from Kicheche as the group arrived just minutes ahead of us. For the fam trip, we were still in Naboisho so the excellent game viewing continued including more lion cubs, lion prides of 25+, a cheetah, a pair of jackals with a kill and a leopard with a kill in a tree. Really amazing.

Ol Seki itself is a fantastic camp option up on a hill/ridge with a beautiful view of the valley. We often saw elephants moving around just in front of camp. Lions would roar each night from the appropriately named Simba (lion) Villa and the manager Debbie told us about a leopard possibly with cub(s) near the also appropriately named Chui (leopard) Villa.

The main area comprises a few levels of structures. The main sitting/dining area above with the pool deck down below and a small private viewing deck down below. Quite a few stairs and relatively long walks between the tents and the main area.

Each Nina tent was well laid out with views which rivaled the ones from the main area. There were binoculars in the room to spot wildlife and the rooms have large glass windows which could be easily opened to sit outside on the deck. We often had the threat of a bit of rain so we didn’t spend much time there. The bathroom was just behind the beds with twin sinks, indoor and outdoor showers with a tub and a separate room for the toilet. The shower was very easy to keep at the right temperature and the hot water showed up quickly!

Overall, a fantastic option at a great price point. Maybe slightly less focused on super early mornings and game viewing and a bit more focused on relaxing and taking things easy. Ol Seki will continue to be a great option for many of our guests.

Hemingways Watamu

The plane we took to Watamu was not ideal. The twin propeller aircraft had a hilariously small amount of overhead storage space (basically everything had to go under the seat in front of you) and very little air flow so it got very hot. On the way back to Nairobi, the airplane made an awful hissing noise because apparently the door wouldn’t seal correctly. The flight attendant did nothing to prepare us and she did not get up to reassure us at any time. One of our agents had to go up to the front to see if everything was ok and she said something to the effect of ‘this always happens’… Instead of reassuring us, she got on the speaker and started talking about Safarilink’s other routes which we couldn’t hear due to the screeching noise. Not a pleasant flight in either direction.

The airport experience was fine on the way in, a relatively easy pickup of luggage and our driver was there to pick us up on the ‘fam’ trip. The airport experience on the way out was pretty brutal, 90 degrees (felt like 100 in the shade), wide open ‘gate’ with no air conditioning. We each got some ice cream but we struggled to eat it before it melted.

It was approximately 45 minutes from the airport to the beach, possibly closer to an hour. Busy roads no matter what you do. Lots of slow moving vehicles as well as cows and goats.

Hemingways Watamu was also a bit of a miss for us. It was very hot during check-in, which was expected. Aggravated somewhat by not having a spot to sit down to sign the paperwork that they required since there was a group in the waiting area taking up most of the seats. We eventually made it to the room which was perfectly cooled, but that wouldn’t last. We were put in a top floor room on the ‘old’ side of the hotel which ended up being one of the older rooms on the property. We would suggest lower level rooms which are more deluxe and more recently updated.

The room looked fine, but quite a few little things didn’t work as well as in the newly remodeled rooms. The old thermostat (and likely old AC unit) kept shutting off during short power outages. In the new rooms you would simply push the power button on the digital thermostat and everything would come back on. In the older room, the old thermostat and AC would not kick back on. Sometimes the fan would need to be reset which meant a maintenance crew heading to the roof (which we experienced at about 10pm while trying to head to bed).

The other side of the property was the newer wing with 1, 2 and 4 bedroom suites. Possibly useful for group bookings but I think the deluxe rooms on the old wing are even more recently updated so we would likely stick with those.

The property itself was also a bit larger than what we’d ordinarily use for most of our guests. Not as much personalized service – with buffet meals etc. Not ideal.

Activities were quite fun though. Our cruise for dolphins didn’t pan out but the snorkeling was fantastic. Our dhow cruise ended up being partially rained out but we had a ton of fun. If guests are interested in fishing, they can book a small charter boat and likely have an amazing time as well. We went out for lunch to a local restaurant which was also a big hit. Food at the property was hit or miss, mostly miss.

Reach out to Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com to help you arrange the perfect Kenya trip, customized to your preference and price point. 

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Amboseli – the Place of Elephants

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Amboseli – the place of elephants 

In the pantheon of African wildlife, elephants are the sky and lions the shooting stars. Lions provide the thrills but elephants hold everything together. 

Scratch a safari aficionado and you will find a fondness for elephants. A proclivity to want to spend hours watching these mostly gentle giants do what they do. Which is mostly feeding (up to 18 hours out every 24), being social and only occasionally taking a nap. Getting by on about two hours of sleep per day. Which of course helps to make elephants endlessly fascinating as they are out and about practically around the clock. Providing us with multiple opportunities to observe them going about their day. And their night.

Amboseli National Park is one of the places in Africa where elephants run the show. To see and experience Amboseli’s very special elephants is why most people include Amboseli in their safari itinerary in the first place. The Amboseli elephants are super chill around cars, they’ve got beautiful white tusks from rooting around in the swamps and their predictable daily movement between the swamps and the woodlands make them relatively easy to see. Also, the routine of walking towards and back from the swamps produces reliably good photographs and videos. You can get them in your lens coming and going, morning and afternoon.

There is one other good reason to spend some time in Amboseli. Kilimanjaro. Amboseli is the single best place in East Africa from which to observe this impressive mountain rising up to over 19,000 feet above sea level. It is said that ‘Tanzania has the mountain, but Kenya has the view,’ and that is most definitely the case from many vantage points in and around Amboseli.

Ideally of course, the objective is to get some of the elephants and Kilimanjaro in the same frame. Which – rather surprisingly – is not that hard to accomplish. With a little bit of effort and anticipation on the part of your guide, the elephants are almost always in the right spot. Kilimanjaro not so much – it disappears behind a blanket of fog, mist and clouds all too often.

Elephant Gorge Lodge

On our late May visit to the Amboseli area we spent two nights at a relatively new property –  Elephant Gorge Lodge – located in a private conservancy about 30 minutes’ drive from the eastern gate of Amboseli. The best feature of the property is the open lounge and dining area which has a superb view over the Amboseli flats. The waterhole right in front of the main building attracts elephants and giraffes, among others.

There’s an attractive pool on the left side of the lounge and a spa which offers a full range of massages and beauty treatments. The food offerings were consistently good and nicely presented with impeccable, friendly service. The overall impression was one of a happy, capable crew which enjoyed having guests around.

The rooms are more than comfortable with a divided toilet/shower/bath addition and a small desk area where devices can be charged. Packing space is limited and the lighting could be better. Guests can move between the rooms and the main area only by golf cart; walking around on one’s own was prohibited. At least when we were there; possibly as a result of thick vegetation.

Amboseli game viewing

I’ve always been of the opinion that Amboseli is a good introduction to the wildlife of Kenya – or East Africa for that matter. This visit hasn’t changed that. Over the course of just two drives into the park we saw dozens of elephants of all sizes, hippos, zebras, buffaloes, wildebeest, Thompsons and Grants gazelles, black-backed jackals and a cheetah with a youngster. The birding at Amboseli is fantastic and over the course of a couple days we racked up about 50 different species.

Amboseli issues

Amboseli is a unique and wonderful park but traffic and dust will no doubt have an impact on your stay there.

Congestion

Amboseli traffic has increased noticeably since our last visit about three years ago. Several new camps have opened during this timeframe and more will continue to in the future. Add to that the growing number of visitors driving from both Malindi and Nairobi, and Amboseli starts to feel rather crowded on some days.

Amboseli is a small park with a limited road network so it’s not always possible to find your own quiet spot. As soon as a good sized herd of elephants head in a direction which will take them across one of the roads, the vehicles start heading that way. At a cheetah sighting the road was all but totally blocked at times with other vehicles driving into your line of sight.

It is still possible to avoid the worst congestion around high profile sightings but would-be visitors should know they’re not going to have Amboseli to themselves. Get an early start in the morning.

Dust

Dust has always been an issue at Amboseli, which is in the rain shadow of Kilimanjaro. Seeing dust devils in the distance – often several at the same time – is as typical of Amboseli as is elephants rooting around in the swamps.

Dust can be a photographer’s best friend such as when a herd of elephants kick up plumes of dust or even spray themselves with generous clumps of it. It adds drama and color, and what could be a ho-hum elephant photo can be immeasurably better with some of the fine Amboseli dust flying in all directions.

What isn’t fun is driving in a cloud of dust practically all the way along the main road coming from the eastern Kimana gate to the center of the park. Guests staying at camps like Tawi, Elephant Gorge and Angama Amboseli run that gauntlet – mostly in open-sided vehicles – as many as four times per day. So be sure to bring some masks or at least a buff or scarf to protect you from the dust. And protect your cameras and other electronic gear in a suitable dust-proof bag.

The camps in private concessions on the east side of Amboseli do have one major advantage compared with the camps inside and to the west of the park: the presence of giraffes. The area right around Elephant Gorge Camp had dozens of giraffes which feed on the acacia and other trees found there. There are practically no giraffes inside the park due to the elephants having stripped away all the trees over the years.

While we personally still enjoy Amboseli and its amazing elephants, and still encourage travelers to spend two nights there (not more), we can see a time when it may be advisable to spend time in Tsavo East instead. Lots of elephants too – and equally good general wildlife viewing – in a less traveled, more rewarding setting. Not really an option for visitors who want to see Kilimanjaro. If it’s mostly an elephant experience then Tsavo East fits the bill admirably.

Soroi Amboseli Lodge

On our last day in the Amboseli area we inspected the soon to be opened Soroi Amboseli Lodge. We liked what we saw and have already added it to the rotation of camps we’d consider for our guests. Being inside the western sector of the park, guests staying at this 16-roomed camp (with one deluxe room, two family rooms and a spa tent) will not have to deal with long, dusty drives in or out.

For more information about the two new Amboseli camps (Soroi Amboseli and A&K Sanctuary Kitirua), or for assistance with planning your own Kenya trip email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or call our office at 1-800-513-5222 and leave a message with the answering service. 

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A Return to Tsavo

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A return to Tsavo

We’ve had some of our best ever safari experiences in Tsavo. Spotting leopards along the Galana River in the gloam of the early evening at the base of the Yatta Plateau. Interacting with orphan elephants being readied for release back into the wilderness at Sheldrick’s Ithumba and Voi units. Getting up close to KM-2, a super tusker with more than 100 pounds of ivory on each side. Watching dozens of elephants and hundreds of oryx and other antelopes at the end of their tether, in the teeth of a long drought, marching towards a water hole as if their lives depended on it. Which of course it did.

So it was with great anticipation that we entered Tsavo East National Park, just a few miles from Voi town, in late May. Tsavo East is wild and rugged, and truly massive. It is also the most diverse – in terms of wildlife species – of any of the Kenyan parks. Most characteristic of Tsavo mammals are their red, dusty coats: from zebras to elephants to warthogs, all the animals seem to be coated with more than just one layer of the brick red Tsavo dust.

Rather unexpectedly, considering we arrived early in the afternoon when many animals are resting, we started racking up mammal species at a rapid rate. Zebras, the Galana subspecies of giraffe, great views of a small group of gerenuk, Coke’s hartebeest, Peter’s gazelle, hippopotamus, impala, lots of elephants and a herd of buffaloes.

Later that afternoon we went on a game drive and had some excellent views of elephants in good light and three female lions beneath a Boscia tree. They had brought down an oryx close to a water hole and were resting up under the tree.

The following day produced yet more elephants, some great birding, lots of general game including many giraffes and a couple more female lions along the roadside.

Satao camp

Satao is about as old school a safari camp as you can imagine. Walking into the camp for the third time was no less special than the first visit. It is unmistakably wild and palpably right on the edge of the wilderness. Big bull elephants at the waterhole right in front of camp, a herd of waterbuck nervously glancing in our direction and small herds of impala wandering around the camp. Most memorably, on a previous visit, we had one hippo chasing another one through camp. I did say Satao is wild.

While Satao purposefully retains its 1970’s safari atmosphere, it hasn’t lost touch with the demands of modern travelers. Your tent has electricity, charging points, hot and cold water and a flush toilet.

There’s also an elevated lookout tower over the waterhole, an inviting outside dining area where buffet lunches are served, and a split lounge and dining area.

While the cooking at Satao doesn’t aspire to be Cordon Bleu, we’ve always enjoyed the wide variety of well-prepared dishes. This time was no exception. As always a highlight was the tableside charcoal-grilled kabobs. Your choice of beef, chicken, lamb and vegetable. Be there on a Wednesday or Saturday. If your preference runs to decaf coffee, it will be instant.

The five somewhat larger suites at Satao have everything you need on safari including a comfortable king size bed, shower with consistently good water pressure, flush toilet, adequate storage space and decent lighting. The 15 standard rooms are quite comfortable too –  just smaller.

Elephants, zebras and lions

We send our guests to Tsavo East primarily for two reasons: its ‘old Africa’ atmosphere and of course, the elephants. One morning we watched a large family of elephants make their way to a waterhole near Aruba Lodge. The elephant to car ratio was around 40 to 1 – so essentially it was just us and the elephants, the beautiful open woodland creating as perfect a setting as one could wish for.

Tsavo elephants have an attitude and more than just once, it looked like  a couple of the young bulls wanted to join us in the car. Between them, Tsavo East and West have around 24,000 elephants. No well thought out African safari should be without a signature elephant experience and Tsavo East is a great place for just that.

Zebras make great photographs – particularly when there’s more than just one face in the photo. Even better? When the dust adds drama. On a game drive from Severin Camp in Tsavo West, when a hard running warthog spooked a small herd of zebras, we went two for two. Striped faces staring at us from behind a veil of Tsavo dust.

And then there were the lions. On our first couple of days we had seen a group of three female lions under a tree, two other females also resting up by the roadside and a solitary male far in the distance at the top of a hill in the Lumo Conservancy.  All interesting sightings, to be sure. But hardly remarkable.

That changed one morning in Tsavo West. We had been hearing several lions calling pretty much all throughout the night, seemingly from quite close to camp. Predictably, we were the first car out of camp the next morning to go and look for them. Two other small parties of European guests stayed back in camp for breakfast. They will never know what they missed.

Not 10 minutes out of camp it was bingo. We hit the jackpot. There they were, in the soft pre-sunrise light at the base of a rocky outcrop in a nice clearing. So many lions we didn’t know where to start looking. Once the dust had settled a bit, we figured out there were one male, two females and 9 young cubs as well as one slightly older cub.

We spent the better part of an hour observing them – initially with one other vehicle around – and then just us. And the lions. In the space of that hour we observed and recorded just about the full lion repertoire. Females in hunting mode, cubs playing, all but the smallest cubs climbing into a tree, tender displays of affection, soft contact calls, a mini-charge from the male and a vociferous display of territorial roaring. We were truly spellbound. And had it all to ourselves until the raucous territorial roaring finally dragged the European crew away from their third cup of coffee.

Severin Safari Lodge, Tsavo West

We had been looking forward to visiting Severin Safari Lodge as we occasionally include it on Kenya itineraries as an overnight stop for guests en route to Lewa or Ol Pejeta. In the main we liked what we saw and experienced there including good food (best bread of the trip) with several options for each of the 3-course plated meals (except for breakfast which is a buffet with eggs to order). Unfortunately our stay was impacted negatively by not having hot water in our room for the two consecutive nights without the lodge management being able to fix or even cogently explain the problem. A ‘to go’ breakfast box also missed the mark by a wide margin.

Severin put us up in their Mawenzi suite which would be a good choice for anyone. It has a large, very comfortable bedroom with decent lighting and storage space, a comfortable bed with a mosquito net, a minibar (only reloads are charged), a tea/coffee station and an upstairs deck with two loungers. The ideal siesta spot.

Severin also has a pool and gym tent. The camp’s two waterholes – which are within view from the dining room and from several of the rooms – are clearly an asset. Even though it was barely the start of the dry season, they attracted a steady stream of animals which included zebras, impalas and elephants.

We will continue to use Severin but some guests may opt for the Serena Kilaguni instead. The Serena is a much larger property but it is very well run. So no worries about lukewarm water in your room or subpar breakfast boxes.

We have visited Tsavo several times over the last few years and we’ve narrowed down our choice of properties in the area – and how best to combine them with other Kenyan destinations.  Please contact Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for more information and for recommendations about the best time to visit Tsavo, getting there and including a couple of signature experiences such as a sleepout in a black rhino sanctuary.

Property photos provided by the respective properties.

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