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Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau: Ol Pejeta Private Conservancy

21st February 2025

Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau: Ol Pejeta Private Conservancy

Ol Pejeta is a Masai phrase which means ‘the place of burning,’ likely hearkening back to a time when pastoralist communities eradicated ticks by burning the grassy plains which dominate the area. During the course of a few days spent at four different safari camps in the Old Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya’s north-central Laikipia region, we fortunately experienced neither ticks nor fires. Rather, the visit highlighted a few key differences between Southern and East Africa and Botswana and Kenya in particular. 

For one thing, we started seeing rhinos, both black and white, right away. They are common, if not downright abundant, in several of Kenya’s private conservancies including Ol Pejeta and  Lewa-Borana. Elsewhere in Kenya, rhinos can also be seen in Loisaba Conservancy, in Meru National Park and Nairobi National Park, and there is a significant black rhino presence in the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary within Tsavo West National Park. 

Unlike many of the game reserves in Southern Africa, the rhinos of Ol Pejeta, Lewa and other parts of  Kenya are not dehorned so you will see them running around with their completely intact, beautiful horns – ready to defend themselves when necessary. In most of the private conservancies in Kenya it is not unusual to see from five to seven or eight mammals at the same time. On more than one occasion we had rhino, buffalo, giraffe, gazelle, zebras and jackals in the same field of view. 

Just like the private concessions in Botswana, the Kenya conservancies offer a more exclusive safari experience as access is restricted and a wide range of activities are available including night drives, walking safaris and off-road driving. Where they  differ is the degree of community involvement. The Kenya conservancies operate as integrated conservation entities, managing a healthy habitat for wildlife and livestock. They work closely with surrounding communities in a manner which blends commercial income from tourism as well as agriculture.  

Another notable difference: on safari in Botswana it is often downright impossible to see signs of civilization as we know it anywhere in the private concessions in northern Botswana. No power lines, no fences, no water towers, towns or even villages. Not so in Kenya. Some of the private conservancies border on national parks while others are enclaves within populated areas. Take a few photos at Lewa or Ol Pejeta and invariably, there will be structures in the background. In essence, there is no difference in the safari experience whether you’re 5 miles or 50 miles from the nearest power line, but ‘civilization’ is all too visible in the East African conservancies.

It is of course part of the conservation model: a cooperative effort involving local communities to preserve suitable habitat for wildlife. To be successful, all the partners have to be winners. Which means there will be some agriculture going on, visible to the human eye mostly in the way of cattle herds or sometimes flocks of  sheep or goats. Beyond serving as the living livestock ‘banks’ for the local people (whose wealth is largely measured by livestock ownership) these animals contribute to the health of the habitat by keeping the grass short where and when needed and by supplying free natural fertilizer. Livestock – notably cattle- also provide an additional revenue stream for the conservancy.

One other thing about Ol Pejeta that is practically impossible to miss is the looming presence of Mt. Kenya, Kenya’s highest mountain peak, often clearly visible to the south. Sometimes shrouded in mist, sometimes not, Mt Kenya is always there like a watching sentinel, a visible reminder of the landscape diversity which Kenya is fortunate to have. Over the course of four days in Ol Pejeta we had some great views of the mountain, with the single most memorable moment being observing some zebras in the foreground, with a misty mountain behind. My photography skills for once didn’t measure up to the challenge – silhouettes are always tricky!

Ol Pejeta Bush Camp

Our first stop in the conservancy, Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, felt comfortable and warm from the word go. Sitting out on the verandah overlooking the Ewaso Nyiro River while being given the usual arrival briefing, a good sized herd of elephants was grazing right on the opposite bank of the river. Later on, we saw several buffalos and hippos from the same spot, and other guests mentioned a leopard which was seen walking there. The delicious al fresco lunch on arrival set the tone for the quality of the meals. We also liked our tented room – one of only eight in this small, solar-powered camp.  

On our very first game drive in Ol Pejeta we encountered a remarkable number of rhinos including several black rhinos and one group of four white rhinos. It was no different the following morning and, without having to try too hard, I captured some of my best photos of both black and white rhinos in at least a decade. Over sundowners that afternoon a large male white rhinoceros appeared on the scene while we were watching four white rhinos grazing. The new arrival became agitated and ended up in an altercation with the largest individual in the group of four. As the light slowly faded, the two rhinos were still in a standoff, head to head, their massive horns just inches away from each other.

Kicheche Laikipia

What would be better than spending a few days at Kicheche Laikipia camp in Ol Pejeta? Combining it with a few days at a Kicheche property in the Masai Mara to qualify for Kicheche’s ‘stay 6, pay 5 nights’ special offer. Top-notch guiding, excellent all-around hospitality and thoughtfully designed rooms at all of the Kicheche properties make for a fun and absorbing safari experience with lots of animals and few other vehicles to be seen.  

At Kicheche Laikipia we felt at home right away, with every member of the team doing whatever they could to make our short stay special. The attention to detail, the ‘make your own pizza’ lunch, the sense of privacy and exclusivity with just six rooms tucked away into a dense thicket. From the cozy dining tent we observed a good number of animals coming to drink at a pond, a hundred meters or so from camp. Among others we saw eland, buffalo, elephant, many birds, impalas and gazelles – all while enjoying Kicheche’s excellent food. 

Our afternoon game drive out of Kicheche was another winner with several more excellent rhino sightings and finding a large pride of 26 lions – with lots of cubs of various ages. It was as entertaining and downright spectacular as any experience we’ve ever had with a group of big cats. Observing the youngsters ‘hunting’ each other, recognizing the affable attitude of particularly the adult females towards the young ones, letting the babies crawl all over them. Above all, seeing right there in front of us how cohesive they were as a pride, with muted contact calls and visual contact keeping them all moving as one, apparently all on their way to some predetermined spot. We were not unhappy to see the last couple of tails disappear into a thicket. We enjoyed our views and took our videos and photographs. It was time to let the lions be lions in private.

Sanctuary Tambarare

An extended game drive on our first day at Sanctuary’s Tambarare Camp illustrated just how diverse the Laikipia plateau can be. This beautiful expanse of broad, undulating plains, rolling hills and scattered rocky outcrops offers something new and interesting around every corner. Driving from the open savannah area into a huge whistling acacia thorn tree forest, we suddenly started seeing lots of small groups of the stunning reticulated giraffes. Without doubt my favorite of the giraffe species with their boldly delineated orange-red spots, separated by cream-colored lines.  

Later on during the same drive, we were watching a large pride of lions which had brought down a buffalo the previous night. As the sun was setting, several of them made their way to a watering point, one after the other. Just then, a black rhino started heading for the same trough and it initially made a mock charge towards one of the lions. When a couple of the other lions showed up the rhino figured that discretion was the better part of valor and it disappeared. Our guide didn’t think that the lions would actually have taken a serious interest in the rhino, but it certainly got us to pick up our binoculars.

Our tented room at Tambarare was just about perfect. Elegantly appointed with just enough space, it had a separate shower and toilet, his and hers wash basins, ample luggage space, recharging points, and adequate lighting. And lo and behold, there was an electric blanket which we put to good use. The level of food and service at Tambarare was top-notch and we were totally spoiled with the choices and options. A specially prepared dish with ugali and maharagwe (essentially red beans in a coconut-based sauce) was outstanding!  

Being close to the equator, there are no wild swings between summer and winter days and summer and winter weather in much of Kenya. Altitude is generally a more important weather determinant than anything else. Being at an altitude of more than a mile high, Tambarare and for that matter all of Laikipia is always temperate and generally quite nice, with daytime highs around 80F and average lows rarely below 50F. 

Our team at Fish Eagle Safaris have been including a few days in the Laikipia region with several Kenya itineraries lately, with great success. If you’re considering an East Africa or Kenya trip, please reach out to Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com for some suggestions on how – and when – Laikipia might best form a part of your trip. 

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A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

20th January 2025

A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

Over the last thirty years plus since Fish Eagle Safaris came into being, our team members have been fortunate to observe thousands of elephants. Even so, there is not one among us who will ever tire or become bored of finding and observing these amazing beasts. They are at the heart of a successful safari and like so many other passionate wildlife enthusiasts, we can and do watch them for hours on end. There are elephants in many areas of eastern and Southern Africa, but these five locations are standouts:

Amboseli National Park 

Two things elevate the elephants of Amboseli National Park into superstar status. The one is the fact that they – alone among all the many thousands of African elephants – are the only ones which live and breathe in the rain shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro. With a little bit of luck and skill – and a guide who will already be primed to do this – you too can take a photo putting the elephants between you and the mountain. It’s not too difficult and the results are stellar. 

What is the other thing about Amboseli elephants which makes them special? Their white tusks. But don’t all elephants have white tusks? Indeed they do but if there were a dental whiteness standard for elephants as there is for human teeth, then the Amboseli tuskers would be practically off the charts on the bright side. The reason? Observe Amboseli’s elephants for a day or two and you’ll quickly figure it out. They are continuously moving between the woodlands and the swamps. In the swamps they practically submerge themselves while rooting around for edible plants. In the process undergoing a repeated and ongoing tusk cleanup, more effective than any giant elephant toothbrush ever could be. 

Chobe National Park, Botswana

Botswana is a reliably good elephant destination and specifically so along the Chobe and Linyanti River, as well as along the Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. In those places, elephants gather in their hundreds and sometimes thousands during the dry season as they are dependent on water, having to drink at least once every couple of days or so. By June and through October, this is where they can be seen moving to the water, drinking from it and often getting into it. A Chobe and Linyanti highlight is to see small groups of elephants swimming to nearby islands or simply splashing around. Ideally visitors to the area should spend a good amount of time in the water themselves. On a boat, of course. 

The stable platform provided by a boat or skiff is ideal for photography in a spot which is invariably chockablock with subjects: not only the elephants  but also as many as three or four species of kingfishers; and several ducks, geese, egrets, cormorants, herons, bee-eaters and storks. Plus an abundance of hippos and Nile crocodiles. 

Tsavo East, Kenya 

If I had to pick just one favorite spot in all of Kenya with its incredible diversity it would have to be Galdessa Camp on the Galana River, in Tsavo East. At the very base of the intriguing Yatta plateau – the remnant of the world’s longest lava flow – Galdessa is a simply magical spot. Spend half an hour gazing out over the usually tranquil Galana River, and you’ll almost certainly see some interesting birds and mammals in or close to it. Stick around a little longer and an elephant trunk is likely to be extended up and over the edge of the embankment, silently imploring you to roll a tasty doum palm fruit in its general direction. Several elephants habitually swing by the property to avail themselves of these free treats. 

The undisputed #1 activity from Galana – which is operated by Sheldrick Wildlife Trust – is a half day trip to the Voi Reintegration unit. This is where your fondest elephant dreams come true. Where you come face-to-face with several subadult elephant orphans being readied for release back into the wilderness. Observe their camaraderie, their unbridled joie de vivre, and reflect how every one of them initially made it to the Sheldrick elephant as orphans. Hungry, lonely, lost little souls, somehow separated from their mothers. Seeing them happy and content, feeding, drinking and playing with the other members of their peer group (they are usually released back into the wilderness together) is one of the most heartwarming, most inspirational, simply magical Africa experiences out there.

Mashatu, SE Botswana

Listen to a group of travelers talking about their upcoming trip to Botswana and you’ll hear them mention the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Moremi. Maybe Kalahari. What you won’t hear is Mashatu. Which is a pity as Mashatu is one of Botswana’s best destinations for elephants – and the big cats. Unquestionably, Mashatu private game reserve in the Tuli block in southeastern Botswana is a hugely underrated safari destination. 

Over the course of several visits over the years we have experienced some amazing sightings at Mashatu, several revolving around elephants. The undisputed highlights were a couple of sessions at Mashatu’s Matebole elephant hide. Elephant aficionado heaven. Observe as one, two, a few and then an entire herd of elephants walk right into your field of view, just a few meters away. Put aside the telephoto lens – this is wide angle stuff. Youngsters pushing each other around, big bulls scaring everyone, tiny babies not knowing what their trunks are for. At the height of the dry season it can be an intense experience with even the observers sensing the desperation, sympathizing with the survival instincts so starkly on display there. 

While one can never get tired of watching elephants and elephant behavior, Mashatu has plenty of other things to see and do. Spend three or four nights there and you’re likely to see lots of plains game species as well as lions and leopards, and perhaps even cheetahs. They are not always present, but when they are, they are relatively easily seen being diurnal cats which roam around, hunt and kill during the day.  

Mashatu lends itself to foot safaris, which can be done in lieu of a game drive at no additional cost, or which can be added as an extra activity at nominal additional cost. At additional cost (not a lot) you can prebook a photographic session in the elephant hide, or embark on a mountain bike safari. If you’re a proficient horseback rider, you may wish to saddle up and go out into the wilderness on a horseback safari.

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

With more than 45,000 elephants resident in greater Hwange National Park, with some seasonal movements mostly within the park, Hwange is solidly in the top three best elephant destinations in Africa. Several of our most memorable elephant viewing experiences occurred at waterholes in Hwange, among others on outings from four Imvelo properties – Jozibanini, Camelthorn, Nehimba and Bomani – and from three Wilderness camps namely Davison’s, Little Makalolo and Linkwasha. In another blog post which can be found here, you can read more about Hwange and what makes it special, beyond the elephants.

On a safari some years ago, Kathy and I were sitting just outside the vehicle on the side of the Makalolo Pan in southern Hwange late one afternoon, observing one after another herd of elephants coming to the water. It was early November and still bone dry, with no early rain having fallen. As a result, the stream of elephants coming to the waterhole was practically never-ending. Herd after herd after herd emerged from the edge of the woodland, the youngsters running ahead in boisterous fashion, all intent on quenching what is usually a substantial thirst in the dry season. We would watch as the elephants initially focused – almost exclusively – on just getting in as much water as fast as they could. Trunkful after trunkful, their huge heads and tusks would go up and down, sometimes in tandem with the other elephants around. Which was the cue for us to press the shutter release buttons on our cameras.  Getting a bit of synchronicity into a wildlife photo can be appealing.  

And then the unexpected happened. On that afternoon, Kathy and I each had a camera focused on the elephants. When the shutter release sound on her camera suddenly stopped, I wondered what was going on and looked to my right, where she was seated. She was looking directly at me, wide-eyed and used a small head movement to prompt me to look behind her. I immediately realized what was happening. A huge herd of elephants was in the process of approaching the waterhole from the side where we were parked. They split left and right of the vehicle, streaming past on our right and left, very close by. Hence the interrupted photography. We looked at our Wilderness guide who gave us a thumbs up sign, indicating that all was fine and that we were in no danger.  

For a few minutes there, we sat in awe of the huge beasts softly trundling past us in the direction of the water. Almost without a sound – the massive pads on their feet muffling the sounds of their footsteps – they glided right by us with no more than the occasional cautionary glance. In the late afternoon light they were beautifully lit and we could see the finest details on their massive heads and trunks, their gleaming tusks and finely rippled, charcoal grey hides. It was awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word. I like to think that there was nothing we could have done to have improved on the experience. It was as perfect as an encounter with wild animals could be: the elephants were not displaced or distressed in any way, not scared or disturbed. Which is of course how one ideally wants every interaction with wild animals to go. Spellbinding and fascinating, yet not intrusive or disruptive.  

There are a myriad of safari options where one or more of these elephant havens can be included in a thoughtful and practical way. Particularly for a first safari but certainly not exclusively so – we think it is essential to include a really great elephant experience: Amboseli, the Chobe-Linyanti-Selinda corridor, Tsavo East, Mashatu and Hwange all fit the bill. So email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to help you figure out a plan for your next trip to do just that. Or call us at
Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222 any time; we will get back to you promptly. 

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A Blissful Stay in Diani Beach on Kenya’s Southern Coast

26th November 2024

A Blissful Stay in Diani Beach on Kenya’s Southern Coast

In their own way, safaris can be demanding and take quite a bit out of you. Very early morning starts, long days, seeing and learning about new animals and birds and other things all the time. Absorbing tons of information from the professional guides and other staff members. All of which demand a considerable amount of concentration. Focus. Mental effort. And sometimes you will be bumping and bouncing along dirt roads for longer than you might have liked to.

A week or more of that and a few days in a beach environment starts to sound better and better. Somewhere to chill, totally relax and not have to worry about missing a game drive or any other scheduled activity. Somewhere to walk or even run without the prospect of being ambushed by a scary, hairy mammal or accidentally bumping into an elephant. That’s of course what beach resorts are for and why you should consider adding a short extension to your safari to just such a spot.

A visit to Kenya’s Diani Beach area has long been high on our list of things to do in East Africa. We finally made it there for a couple of days last September and it already has and will continue to influence the advice we have for prospective travelers to Kenya. While we previously may have primarily mentioned Zanzibar as an attractive option to spend a few days at the conclusion of a Kenya trip as a beach and culture (Stone Town) destination, that is no longer the case.

While Zanzibar certainly remains an option, we think visitors have several other excellent spots to choose from, including two properties which we visited this last summer, being Almanara and Kinondo Kwetu, both south of the town of Diani Beach. Yet more options – but not quite as ‘beachy’ as either Zanzibar or Diani Beach, are the towns of Lamu and Shela in the north, along the Swahili Coast.

Almanara Villas and Boutique Hotel

Of the two Diani Beach resorts which we visited, Almanara offers probably the most convenient accommodation option for older or less mobile guests, with several rooms inside the main boutique hotel, on ground level, or just one flight of (large) steps up from the lobby area and the inside-outside restaurant, with the pool being close by as well. From the lobby it is a short walk to the beach, and likewise to the adjacent Sails restaurant, which is operated as a separate entity. You will likely be invited to enjoy dinner there one night, in lieu of the daily in-house options included in the price at the hotel. We found the food at Almanara to be exceptionally good and could not fault a thing.

The beach at Almanara is pretty, with a huge wide stretch of white sand, but depending on the tide situation, not always swimmable. At low tide the water recedes a good 200 meters or so from the edge of the beach. To be sure, there were some ‘beach boys’ around who were keen to sell us something/anything, but a firm no is all you need to be armed with. Almanara has security personnel at the edge of the property to keep an eye on hotel guests. And on the beach boys, one would imagine.

Our spacious room at Almanara (complete with WiFi in the room) had a couple of lounge chairs in a wrap-around verandah overlooking the pool, with the edge of the ocean perhaps 100 meters away. Always there but with the view partially obscured by trees and palms. Almanara has a beautiful and well maintained pool with crystal-clear water. It may be a little close to the front verandah and restaurant seating area of the main building but not right on top of it.

Kinondo Kwetu

Kinondo Kwetu, the other option for a few days in Diani Beach, is considerably more ‘hands on’ in terms of the degree of personal attention from the management and staff, and the place really runs like a Swiss watch. The Swedish owners have built it up into a showpiece of a property with easily the best resort pool we have ever seen, anywhere. Just stunning. There is also a smaller ‘adults only’ pool closer to the beach. Meals were superb and every single one was served in a different location, either on the edge of the beach, on the verandah just outside your room, or somewhere secluded and romantic. Some of the rooms involve a bit more in the way of stairs than the ones at Almanara, but the rooms are beautifully decorated and have lots of charm. Very much in the style of ‘old Africa’, with everything built and decorated in Swahili style, with local artifacts and fabrics. Tasteful and stylish, yet comfortable.

There are horses, tennis courts and several optional activities available at Kinondo Kwetu but we were perfectly content to spend time at the beautiful pool and to walk along the beach – it’s spectacular despite some seaweed which drifts in overnight at certain times of the year. Ocean bathing is at its best when the tide is in, but there is a concrete pathway leading off the beach at Kinondo Kwetu so it is possible to walk to the edge of the (shallow) waves during low tide to swim. The beach was super quiet, and we didn’t see a single vendor or kite surfers like elsewhere in Diani Beach. Anna, the General Manager, was as helpful and courteous as she could possibly be, particularly when one of us came down with some sort of malaise.

Diani Beach is easily reached by air from Nairobi on a scheduled Safarilink flight and the flight on the day of departure connects with most evening flights out of NBO. Two other reasons to choose Diani Beach or the Lamu-Shela area over Zanzibar: no need to obtain yet another costly visa (for entering Tanzania) and the recently introduced mandatory trip insurance required for entry into Zanzibar. Nothing less than a brazen money grab in our opinion.

Shela, Lamu and Manda Bay

The small village of Shela is a 15-minute walk or short boat ride from the town of Lamu. Lamu is fascinating on many levels; but it is best experienced with a guide. Shela, on the other hand, is 100% relaxed and ideal for simply poking around on your own, finding little boutique shops and coffee vendors, petting a baby donkey, photographing the amazing doors, spending some time people-watching at the Peponi Hotel, and more. We would usually suggest including a few guided activities (a guided village walk, dhow cruise and interactive lunch) but Shela really lends itself to exploring and taking in the atmosphere, the people and the setting.

To me, spending a few days in Shela at the end of a recent November trip to Kenya was the best thing we’ve done in quite a while. Every minute was absorbing and filled with new and exciting experiences. These included having kikoi pants tailored for us, enjoying an interactive samosa-making lunch in a local home, and being taken on a guided tour of Lamu. The entire area was fascinating.

In the same area, Manda Bay is a private island lodge in a quiet, beautiful spot in the Lamu archipelago, a 30-minute boat ride from Lamu and Shela. Manda Bay would be the ideal spot for the last few days of a Kenya trip to experience the beach and the water. It is family run and there will almost always be some of the owners’ friends and family around, making for a fun and relaxed environment.

Ask Bert about spending a few relaxing days on the Kenya coast, at the conclusion of a Kenya safari.  bert@fisheaglesafaris.com – or leave a message at 713-467-5222.

Manda Bay photo courtesy Manda Bay/Kerry Roberts

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Returning to Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park and Kenya’s Masai Mara – May 2024

23rd June 2024

Returning to Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park and Kenya’s Masai Mara – May 2024

In more than 30 years of regular visits to East Africa, Kathy and I had never seen it as wet as this last May. To say that it was exceptionally wet is an understatement. Every game drive was sloppy, every off-road excursion an adventure. Leading to a few tense moments when the 4-wheel drive vehicles (mostly Toyota Landcruisers but also a Landrover on one transfer drive) were pushed to the limit of their ability to negotiate unbelievably difficult terrain. The guides came through with flying colors and we only got stuck properly once. For maybe 20 minutes or so. No big deal.  

Beyond affecting our views of smaller mammals and cats like serval, leopards and cheetahs, the resulting tall grass and dense vegetation everywhere delayed the annual wildebeest migration by a month or so. If you’re a wildebeest, why would you leave one place for another if there’s still plenty of what you need in the way of vegetation and water right where you are. 

The high grass made game viewing super challenging. To the point that we didn’t have good views of any cheetahs in the Serengeti (so unusual!) and likewise leopards. On a couple of the game drives in the central Seronera area I hardly took my cameras out of the bag – never a good sign. All this of course will play into future decisions as to the best timing for visiting specific areas.  

Our experience at three of the four properties which we visited in the Serengeti was negatively impacted by  the presence of just too many tsetse flies. More than just once, we got hammered coming and going into and out of camp and on a few occasions, even  right inside the camp grounds. To the point where the usual enjoyment and fun associated with game drives were negatively affected by the tsetse fly threat.  

We will be paying close attention to this issue in order to provide prospective travelers with the right advice and guidance. The extraordinary long and heavy rainy season this year resulted in many areas having stagnant water which creates favorable conditions for tsetse fly breeding. Usually, when TANAPA (Tanzania Park Authority) conducts controlled burning of certain areas in the Serengeti, they eradicate a huge number of the tsetse flies in the process. Due to the much longer than usual duration of the long rains this year, there was no burning and the results are evident. Lots of thickets and overgrown grass and bushes – and plenty of tsetse flies.

The tsetses are not as much of an issue in the southern Serengeti; at least they weren’t the last time we were there, in February 2023. So we will continue to recommend to prospective travelers to travel there (short-grass plains in the Ndutu area) for the calving season and to combine their stay with a few days in the Seronera area. Where we will be  using properties where we know tsetse flies won’t be an issue. Likewise, there are usually a few pockets of dense forests in the northern Serengeti in the Kogatende area and elsewhere, where a few tsetse flies can be expected. Nothing that can’t be managed with a bit of caution and by wearing long sleeved shirts and protecting your ankles with long, thick socks and tucking in the trousers.

Getting there

Getting to Kilimanjaro Airport for the start of our Tanzania trip was not routine this time around. Anything but. It started on a catastrophic note when an inept airport employee at JFK crashed a jetway into the engine of our Kenya Airways Boeing 787 Dreamliner. Which, needless to say, caused an immediate cancellation of the flight. I won’t bore you with the details but this resulted in an arduous trip on Ethiopian Air via Abidjan, Addis Ababa and Nairobi. Where we arrived at one in the morning instead of 10 am the previous day. On a plus note, when we eventually made it to Tanzania on Monday May 13, we were first in the immigration line and we completed the process in less than 15 minutes, start to finish. A reminder: take your boarding pass with you when leaving your plane at JRO Airport; you will be asked for it upon entering the terminal building. 

Hamerkop House, Arusha

We enjoyed a peaceful overnight stay – much needed after the ordeal of getting there – at Lemala’s Hamerkop House, on the outskirts of Arusha. The property is clearly well run, with a great staff, and the food was excellent. The chef got it exactly right for me:  ugali and two sides. Those being beans in a coconut-based sauce (Maharagwe) and the local version of spinach with some onions. The road to get to Hamerkop House was not the best. Clearly, the property will be a good option for  guests who can fly out of the nearby Dolly airstrip the following morning, directly to the Serengeti.

Serengeti Safari Camp, Grumeti

It took just about 50 minutes in a Cessna Caravan to fly from Arusha to Seronera with brief stops at Kilimanjaro Airport and at Lake Manyara. As before, it was exciting to take off from Lake Manyara with the earth literally dropping away precipitously as the aircraft reached the edge of the Rift Valley wall. Approaching the Seronera airstrip it was clear that the migration was not around – yet. Even so, the long road transfer to Nomad’s Serengeti Safari Camp delivered some surprisingly good game viewing under challenging conditions. Some of the highlights were lions in a tree, several breeding herds of elephants and large herds of zebra and other plains game.  

One thing which we noticed almost immediately at Serengeti Safari Camp: the quality and variety of the food and its presentation have improved markedly since the last time. Our Nomad guide Amos Noah was top-notch and did all the right things. Of the four guides we had in the Serengeti, he was also the only one who knew all the birds. So high marks on that.  

On our full day in the area, we headed across the Grumeti River towards the Grumeti Reserve. The area was about as spectacular as it gets anywhere in Africa. Rolling hills in so many shades of green. Trees silhouetted against the skyline. Vast open plains, endless vistas. Misty blue hills on the horizon.    

Just when you think you’ve seen pretty much everything in Africa, a morning outing in a new or unfamiliar setting will blow your socks off. As it did to us on this Tuesday morning in the Serengeti. Quite early this morning,  not far from Legendary’s Mila Tented Camp, we saw a migrating herd of at least 5,000 zebras slowly winding their way from our left to our right. Moving slowly and ever so quietly, lines of these dazzling black and white equines were making their way across the open plains, pausing to eat as they moved. It was mesmerizing to see so many of these sleek mammals following each other in a controlled but irregular manner, with groups lagging behind and others splintering off. Clearly, they were on the move. Zebras are often the harbingers of the great wildebeest migration, which we were to bump into a day or two later, a bit further south and east.

Not surprisingly, given the presence of so many zebras, we spotted first two and then three beautifully maned male lions and then four young females a little bit later that morning. There was more to come. Lots of elephants, including several good-sized herds. Also some large herds of buffalos and big mixed groups of topis, gazelles, impala and eland. 

The all-round hospitality at Serengeti Safari Camp could not have been better and we were more than well taken care of. There were a few shortcomings such as no fans in the rooms and a somewhat rickety low pressure shower which had clearly seen better days. We were glad to learn that flush toilets would be installed at the various Serengeti Safari Camps in June this year. 

On our way back to Seronera on our last morning at SSC, we found several small herds of elephants and groups of zebras in good light. The photographs demonstrated the importance of being out early enough to take advantage of the ‘golden hour’ in the morning. If you ever find yourself in a safari camp where the morning routine is a little bit too leisurely with – for example – breakfast at 7 am and departure from camp at 7:30, don’t hesitate to push back and request an earlier departure for your game drives. This is of course easier with a private vehicle and guide, but can even be done as long as everyone in your vehicle is on the same wavelength.  

Wild Frontiers Serengeti Wilderness Camp

The road transfer from Seronera Airstrip to Wild Frontiers Serengeti Wilderness camp took about 45 minutes. For a good portion of the trip we found ourselves in a closed vehicle, with no air conditioning or proper ventilation, negotiating the tsetse fly belt. Not much fun. The camp itself was a spotlessly clean and very comfortable tented property with 12 rooms, as well as separate lounge and mess tents. There was pretty serviceable WiFi in the main area. The rooms are of a good size, clean and neat. Hot showers were available on demand. Lighting was on the dim side. The tent has a proper flush toilet. 

We soon found out that it took almost an hour from the camp to reach the productive game viewing areas. As it turned out, game drives from Wild Frontiers Serengeti Wilderness Camp were disappointing to say the least. Inexplicably, our guide seemed to persist in driving around in areas dominated by stands of excessively high, thick grass. Not surprisingly, we saw hardly anything of note with the exception of a leopard on a branch in a tree, viewed from a long distance away. Clearly this area is not at its best until June. We got stuck in the mud late one morning but fortunately the guide was able to extricate us. Kathy and I enjoyed an impromptu al fresco lunch so it wasn’t all bad.  

The food was tasty and ample, and the chef did a great job catering for my plant-based diet.  

Entara Olmara Camp, Seronera

It took about two hours on a shockingly bad road from Seronera Airstrip to make it to Entara Olmara camp. Our driver-guide Said Kotoku impressed us from the very first moment we were introduced. He knew the birds, was enthusiastic, talked about and expounded on identifying characteristics, and he was clearly knowledgeable and experienced. 

Olmara Camp itself makes a good impression, starting with a well-designed and slightly elevated lounge and dining areas with four spacious tents left and right. All rooms are in the process of being elevated as well. Four had been done and four were in progress at the time of our visit. Our room had a king-size bed with an effective mosquito net in a well insulated room. The bed was comfortable and there were several handy plug points. The shower at Olmara was one of the best I’ve seen on safari anywhere. The room had a flush toilet. The interior lighting was excellent. Packing space just so so. 

The food was consistently good and well presented, with lots of choices. The staff members were friendly and helpful and kept me on the straight and narrow with the plant-based food choices. No butter for you…

Game drives out of Olmara

During the wet season – which was much longer than usual this year because of the El Nino weather pattern – game drives take a solid hour to get to the productive areas and quite frankly, there was not much to be seen on the drive there and back. A lot of thick grass. 

On our first afternoon we found a couple of large bull elephants on the way back into camp; a fortuitous combination of storm light and a clean, uncluttered background resulted in a memorable photograph. Reminder to my photographer self: don’t give up on less than ideal conditions. Photo opportunities will present themselves as long as you keep looking for them.

On our full day at Olmara, we embarked on what turned out to be a monster all day game drive, all the way out to the Gol Koppies and beyond. Said drove a huge distance, setting out on a semi-circular route which included many of the game hotspots. It worked. By mid-morning we were smack in the middle of the wildebeest migration. It was an amazing sighting. Literally thousands of wildebeest in every direction, all around us in a 360 degree arc. Doing what wildebeest do which seems to be a combination of eating grass, running around erratically and regularly grunt-calling to maintain contact with a friend or family member. And always succeeding in looking a bit goofy because of their peculiar physique (skipped hind leg days at the gym too often) and homeliest of homely faces, making them truly incapable of managing a thoughtful look.  

From late morning that day, we encountered one after another pride of lions. One group had several large males and a female with three cubs. Others were lying in thick grass at the base of rocky outcrops, or wedged into tree branches in an elevated spot with a view over the plains. We approached a coalition of three cheetahs in tall grass but for once I had to just ‘appreciate’ them – it was not a photo opportunity. Our mega day drive also produced hundreds, if not thousands of  zebras, gazelles, eland, topi and hartebeest. We added several new birds to our trip list. In fact we hit the 100 species mark that very afternoon.

An extraordinary sighting on the day was watching a simply massive black necked spitting cobra hunting for frogs. We were just too far away for photography, but it didn’t matter. Observing the animal slowly winding its way between a bush and a rocky outcrop and then suddenly perking up as it found – and tried to kill – its toad prey – was spellbinding. All of this we both observed through our respective pairs of quality Swarovski binoculars. Without good binos this would have been a nothing event, and likely borderline frustrating using a mediocre pair. 

Wilderness Usawa camp, Seronera

Our next and last stop in the Serengeti was Wilderness’ Usawa #2 tented camp, relatively close to Olmara. Due to some Byzantine Tanzania parks authorities rules, we had to drive all the way back to Seronera Airstrip from Olmara for the correct permits to be issued, and then back again (fortunately on a better road) to Usawa. A lot of seemingly wasteful energy expended in the process, not to mention further wear and tear on already dodgy roads.    

Usawa is an upscale mobile camp with innovative design features, attractive and extremely comfortable rooms with low pressure showers (on demand), WiFi in the common area and in the rooms. 

The camp is located in a good area for walking safaris, which is one of their specialties. The food was definitely a step above what we had experienced up to that point on the trip. Ambitious but well-executed and superbly presented. 

Like the other Seronera area camps, the Usawa location is  one hour plus from the best game viewing in the area at the time. Faced with the prospect of yet another lengthy drive – in an open vehicle – through areas with significant tsetse fly presence, we turned down the offer of another full day game drive.  

Our morning game drive – with our capable guide James – the following day turned out to be better than anticipated with lots of elephants, nice groups of buffaloes, dozens of giraffes, topi, hartebeest, impala, and some great birds.  

Saruni Wilderness and Saruni Leopard Hill, Naboisho

After a brief stopover in Nairobi with an overnight at House of Waine (excellent as always) in Karen, we flew with Safarilink from Wilson Airport to the Masai Mara.  

From the Ol Seki Airstrip in Naboisho, it was about a 30-minute drive to Saruni Wilderness, which would be our first stop – for lunch. Saruni Wilderness camp is quite intimate with just five rooms. It has a small yet cozy and inviting dining and lounge area. The camp is solar powered. The tented rooms – which we found to be quite attractive – have low-pressure (bucket) showers with hot water on demand. The camp offers game drives starting at 6:15 am and 4:30 pm. As well as foot safaris and night drives from 8:00 to 10:00 pm. Walking starts at 7:00 am from the camp, accompanied by a guide and armed game ranger. Saruni Wilderness has no WiFi connection. It’s a place where guests can purposefully disconnect from the many distractions – not the least of which is one’s smartphone – of an urban environment. The camp also offers bush dinners under the stars and bush breakfasts. The minimum age limit is 10 and for walking 12 and older. 

This was our second visit to Saruni Leopard Hill and there were no surprises this time around. The tents were still large and comfortable, with particularly good showers. The property has 8 rooms, 2 of which are suitable for families. There is a large lounge and dining room area – some of it uneven with quite a few steps to negotiate. 

Game drives out of Saruni Leopard Hill were consistently good with animals literally all over the place. We observed hundreds of zebras, good sized groups of wildebeest, topi, warthog, giraffe, eland, Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, hyena, bat eared fox, black backed jackal vervet monkey, olive baboon, and lions on every outing. 

Compared with our previous visit, cheetahs were scarce in the Naboisho conservancy at the time – likely because of too much competition from lions. 

Hemingways Ol Seki Lodge

Our all too brief overnight stay at Hemingways Ol Seki Lodge was more than sufficient to firmly elevate this property onto our regular future rotation for the Mara. Our experience there was flawless from beginning to end. Starting with a warm welcome from camp manager Debbie Paul, we had a great introduction to the room and the property itself, a fantastic dinner (with a surprise birthday cake), and an absorbing game drive with our guide Isaac. We just missed seeing a female cheetah which was spotted walking in the direction of a nearby village earlier that afternoon.  

We were accommodated in a deluxe Nina room (#5) which was quite close to the reception area and also to the lounge and dining room. The heart of the property is its huge, elegantly appointed lounge and dining room, both elevated on a hill which overlooks a beautiful, typical Masai Mara landscape – a mix of open grassland and woodland with patches of riverine bush.   

There’s an inviting pool and plenty of outside terrace seating on more than one level. Guests can anticipate a high level of personal attention at Ol Seki, starting with the hands-on management style of Debbie Paul. Activities include game drives, walking and village visits. 

Ol Seki is closer to the Naboisho airstrip than some of the other properties in the Naboisho Conservancy. Something else that struck me while being driven around the area was the excellent road maintenance. Already, much of the road damage caused by the excessive long rains had been patched up; bridges were being prepared and gravel augmentation was in full swing. 

Saruni Mara Lodge

From Naboisho, we took off on the sloppiest of transfer drives to the far northern end of the huge Mara North conservancy. The second – and also the worst – half of the drive was in a Land Rover. Which as we know can go anywhere. Which we did.  So much mud!

Over the years we have used several Mara North properties on itineraries including Elephant Pepper and Karen Blixen. With our guide Jonathan and personal assistant James we had a great time at Saruni Mara, spending a couple of nights in their private villa – Nyati House. The Italian dishes which we enjoyed for lunch and dinner would be the envy of many an Italian restaurant anywhere in the world! Simply superb. We checked out the regular rooms at Saruni Mara and liked what we saw:  spacious, well-equipped, a good distance from each other and each with a nice verandah to contemplate the passing parade. Which here often includes elephants; some of which we heard rustling about that very afternoon.  

A game drive on the first afternoon to the nearby Mara Bush Houses delivered a superb range of plains game, with some unexpectedly good photo opportunities of elephants, zebras and olive baboons, among others. Jonathan mentioned that lions had been seen in the area just a couple of days ago and that a coalition of four cheetahs had walked right by Saruni Mara Camp just the previous day.  

The following day we embarked on yet another ‘big day’ outing, starting with a drive into the Lemek Conservancy where we saw many more – hundreds – of zebras as well as elephants, wildebeest, impalas, gazelles and a large breeding herd of buffaloes. 

Saruni Wild Camp – Lemek Conservancy

Prior to yet another excellent Italian-style lunch at Saruni Wild Camp, we site-inspected this 5-roomed tented camp which includes a family room. There’s WiFi, the entire camp is run on solar power and it is unfenced. Being only 20 minutes from the Mara North airstrip this property is easy to get to and out of.

The recommended activities at Saruni Wild are headlined by an early morning drive with a packed breakfast. Other activities on the roster include a sundowner drive with drinks and snacks and a’ holiday safari,’ which appropriately starts with a late breakfast in camp, a picnic lunch and sundowners back in camp. Clearly not the optimal choice for photographers but ‘regular’ visitors may enjoy this more leisurely approach. Additionally, Saruni Wild offers night drives which start after an early dinner. Guests then depart on the game drive, returning to camp around  10 pm. 

We were starting to build up a bit of resistance to mega game drives but our excellent guide Jonathan Nchoe convinced us that it would be worthwhile to take a swing through the Mara North Conservancy on our way back to camp that afternoon. Always listen to your guide. The drive paid off big time. 

A Cheetah in Mara North

Finally! A good look at a female cheetah. In a situation where being inside a national park would have not worked out at all. She briefly paused along the main road and then walked into the open savanna, eventually settling down in a shady spot under a tree. We followed along at a discreet distance and spent a good half hour or so simply observing the gorgeous animal. 

She spent most of the time in the shade, constantly surveying her surroundings as cheetahs habitually do. It was personally satisfying for me to predict the cheetah’s next move which was to pause on an elevated anthill, checking for signs of gazelles. We were ideally positioned when she made the walk to the elevated spot. Score!

Predictably the day’s activities were concluded back at camp with yet another good Italian meal at Saruni, this time with a delicious gnocchi starter. 

We had a few minor issues at Saruni Mara; nothing major – the interior lighting was poor and the hot water was not hot enough. Unfortunately the location of Saruni Mara is not suitable, in our opinion. It is just  too far from the best game viewing areas,  with a terrible, rocky road separating the camp and the most productive areas of Mara North. Trying to do a day drive into the Masai Mara would end up being a real mission. Saruni Mara’s  sister property – Saruni Wild – will definitely  find a spot in our rotation. 

Kicheche Mara, Mara North Conservancy

Kicheche Mara – where we spent just a single night – turned out to be property right up our alley. It has an ideal location in a secluded valley, right alongside a perennial stream which attracts wildlife year-round. There are 10 rooms as well as a large and uber comfortable common area with a dining and lounge tent, as well as a  photographic tent for uploading and editing. The game drive vehicles (best I’ve seen) were designed specifically for photography with an open roof, huge side ‘cutouts’, supports for cameras and bean bags. Most importantly, all guides at any of the Kicheche camps have (at minimum) a Kenya Professional Safari Guides Association  silver level qualification. For visitors, this is gold.  

How many other things impressed us about this camp? A live wire manager (Andrew Obaja) with whom we had a fascinating discussion about the advantages and pitfalls of the conservancy concept. An excellent plant-based lunch with salads, rice and lentil stew. Much faster WiFi in the room than any other camp so far. Being in a beautiful area with game viewing starting right out of camp

The morning game drive with our most capable guide Paul Kasaine was – to be honest – not the best one of the trip, but it didn’t matter. There were lots of animals around, including three large male elephants which apparently spend much of the dry season in a marshy area right out of camp. We also spotted a different male cheetah on the way out of camp. 

Il Moran and Little Governors Camp

Perhaps appropriately, our last Kenya stop was inside the magnificent Masai Mara National Park at Governors’ Il Moran camp. Accompanied and led by our effervescent guide Bernard Lodeki, we took several game drives into the Mara which was spectacular after all the recent rainfall. Green and lush like we’ve never seen before. Almost right away, we spotted several members of the Marsh (lion) pride on the way in. As well as sizable herds of elephants and lots of hippo. 

Kathy and I enjoyed lunch at Il Moran on the expansive deck area overlooking the Mara River which was still flowing strongly. There’s a huge pod of hippos, numbering as many as 50 in total, resident in the big bend in the Mara in front of camp. 

We’ve always enjoyed our stays at the Governors’ camps and this time around was no exception. They all have great locations with game drives possible into both the main part of the reserve as well as into the well-managed Mara Triangle. 

The large tented rooms at Il Moran overlook the Mara River and they are tucked into  a riverine forest where  several interesting bird species are to be found such as Ross’ turaco and double toothed barbet. Plus several striking species of butterflies including mocker and greenbanded swallowtails, various whites and blues and brushfooted butterflies.   

While the tented rooms were spacious and comfortable they were clearly coming to the end of their useful life. We were later advised that the entire camp was scheduled to be rebuilt at the end of the 2025 season. In the interim, Governors’ Private Camp will be rebuilt.

A brief site inspection visit to Little Governors’ Camp reminded us why we like this property as much as we do, and why we use it quite regularly for clients. It looked sparkling and well-maintained, with the staff being as friendly and welcoming as ever. The location of the camp – with rooms all fronting a large marshy area which attracts a variety of mammals and a dazzling array of birds – is simply the best. A minor negative about Little Governors’ is that the 17 tents are a little too close to each other.  

Our grande finale game drive in Kenya was an all-day excursion into the Mara Triangle which lived up to all our expectations. Spotlessly clean restrooms at the Oloololo Gate into the park, roads which were in better condition even than those  inside the private conservancies, drop dead gorgeous views and fascinating wildlife viewing. The Mara Triangle is the real deal. Even as we were approaching the gate, our guide Bernard spotted a trio of black rhinos in an open area, relatively close to the road. Within just minutes we were admiring them through the binoculars and eventually the camera lens, being reminded why they should be called hook-lipped rhino instead of black rhino. The remainder of our drive traversed some of the most spectacular landscapes to be found anywhere in Africa. There is no photograph or video which can start to do it justice. Each amazing vista is superseded by another equally impressive one just around the corner. Just when you think a tower of 12 giraffes is something, one of 17 shows up. We had not seen as many giraffes in one game drive as that day in the Mara, ever. And we’re unlikely to get even close again in the future. With large herds of buffaloes, big breeding herds of elephants and good numbers of general plains game, not to mention lions, it was about as complete a safari experience as one could hope for, anywhere. It did not matter that we dipped out on leopard, which would have made it a ‘Big Five in one day’ outing.  

For fresh information and observations and up to date recommendations for East Africa, please call our Houston office at  713-467-5222  or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.  

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Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

21st June 2024

Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

For me the most fun part of our business is designing itineraries. That’s where our 50 plus years of African experience and our team’s regular inspection and educational visits come into play. Rarely do we include a property which we haven’t been to ourselves and never is how often we include a property where guests may be forced into a middle seat on safari. 

Over the years we have gotten better at customizing itineraries to match a particular party’s interests and objectives. Without simply opting for the most expensive properties. 

So where would we go ourselves if we had to book an Africa trip this very minute, using mostly the properties which our Fish Eagle Safaris team checked out over the last couple of months? I asked the members of our Fish Eagle Safaris team to chime in.  

Here is what they had to say:

Lyndon: “I’d opt for a combination of Victoria Falls and Botswana and the trip would ideally include several days at Wilderness’ new Mababe concession camp, Mokete. On just one day there in late May we saw more animals in total, more different species and more rarities (how about aardvark, African wild cat and bat eared fox) than most visitors would see in a week on safari elsewhere.  

Consider taking a business class flight into Vic Falls, if only to get to the front of the line for the visa/immigration process which has lately proven to be quite challenging in terms of duration. Victoria Falls is a good starting point to shake off some jet lag and it acts as a buffer in case of any flight delays. It has many attractive accommodation options including Ilala Lodge, Pioneers, Palm River Hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel and Stanley & Livingstone Hotel. Be sure to include a guided tour of the falls and a jet boat sundowner cruise.  

From there I’d head to Hwange for three or ideally four nights at one of the Imvelo or Wilderness properties such as Camelthorn, Bomani, Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, or Davison’s, depending on budget. I have a soft spot for Hwange and to date this year it has been producing some great game viewing. We’ve previously mentioned that the country is facing what could end up being a serious drought. Game viewing should continue to be good but young and weak, older elephants will be facing an uphill battle towards the end of the dry season.  

Ideally, end your safari with at least six nights in Botswana split between two camps. 

I would put Mokete right at the top of the list for the remainder of this season and likely into the future. It’s a unique Botswana property; on my recent visit there it felt a lot like visiting the Serengeti, somehow relocated to southern Africa. Mokete is really a  ‘must visit’ from now until probably November – and will likely be excellent until then.

With Mokete, I would add a few days at perhaps Karangoma and – for a true Okavango Delta experience at an affordable price point – two nights at a water camp like Setari.    

Our group had a fabulous time during our all too short 2-night stay at the brand new Karangoma. It is an intimate camp with only 6 tents, each one with just the right amount of luxury. The scenery in the north-eastern Okavango Delta is idyllic and the remoteness is unparalleled with a 10-minute helicopter flight required to reach camp.

Setari is also remote and requires a boat ride of about 45 minutes from the airstrip to reach camp. Located in the main artery of the Okavango Delta it has permanent water year-round and is a different, more laid back experience than many other Botswana camps. The perfect way to end a successful trip.

Jason: “One of our most successful offerings has always been a combination of South Africa, Victoria Falls and either Zimbabwe or Botswana. If I could book a trip for a client right now, that’s where I would try to focus my efforts.

With a night in Johannesburg, or a few in Cape Town at the start of the trip to try and mitigate jet lag, the trip would kick off with four nights in Sabi Sand at one of our favorite properties. Mala Mala, Savanna, Sabi Sabi, Leopard Hills and Cheetah Plains all make for excellent choices with varying degrees of luxury and price points. The Sabi Sand is a game-rich Big 5 location and has always produced for our guests.

Next, a light air flight to Kruger’s MQP international airport would connect with a commercial flight to Victoria Falls. Ideally, spend two nights here at properties like The Victoria Falls Hotel, Ilala Lodge or Batonka Guest Lodge. We typically recommend a tour of the falls, a sunset cruise and some free time to explore Victoria Falls Town. You could also fill time with adventure activities like scenic helicopter flights, gorge swings, swimming in Devil’s Pool right on the edge of the falls (time of year dependent) or cultural activities in nearby villages.

The last three to six nights on this type of itinerary would be in Botswana’s Okavango Delta where things can slow down a little bit. With a huge number of amazing safari camp offerings, it’s difficult to decide just where to go. But you can count on our knowledge of the camps and areas to select a combination that would work best for your needs. 

Want to see the highest concentration of wildlife? In that case you’d definitely want to spend some time at Wilderness’ Chitabe/Chitabe Lediba camps. It’s been delivering simply brilliant game viewing with guests treated to mesmerizing experiences involving leopards, cheetahs, lions and African painted dogs, day after day.

Want to relax on the water in a boat or mokoro? Stick with some of the Okavango Delta camps (in flood season) like Wilderness’ Kwetsani, Little Tubu or Jao or Great Plains’ Okavango Explorers Camp. 

Want a combination of land and water activities? Machaba’s Gomoti Plains might be the answer. Even during droughts the Gomoti area has water year-round for mokoro rides and typically there is enough for boating as well. Plus it has plenty of open plains to explore on a traditional vehicle safari. On my recent trip, we found ourselves joining a hunt – bounding through the bush in an attempt to keep up with the effortlessly fast pace of a pack of painted dogs. Later that same morning we were on a mokoro attempting to photograph malachite kingfishers, African jacanas and red lechwe antelopes.

Bert:  We’ve always advised prospective travelers to Africa to  spend more time in fewer areas. Based on my experiences on our most recent trip I think visitors would do well to extend that principle into their day-to-day activities on safari. Ideally by including the services of a private guide and vehicle on at least part of their trip. 

This makes it possible to slow down game drives in order to spend less time actually driving, and more time experiencing. More time to observe, to record, and to learn.  Focusing on the details of specific sightings and not just bouncing around from animal to animal. 

Not trying to check everything off your list often results in unexpected but welcome developments. Mostly in the way of seeing something much more interesting than what you started off with.

Patience and perseverance almost always pays off in the wilderness. We’ve had painted dogs walk into an otherwise blah sighting, we’ve seen ‘stationary cheetah’ turn into ‘running cheetah on the hunt,’ and we’ve experienced baby leopards suddenly and unexpectedly join their mom, right in front of us.   

Where would I go right now, looking mostly at the properties which Kathy and I recently visited in East Africa? I would book my Kenya Airways non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi, spend a couple of days in Nairobi (for a morning game drive in Nairobi National Park and a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage) and then head to either Lewa or Laikipia for 4 nights. Few other places in East Africa or the rest of the continent for that matter, can match properties like Lewa Wilderness or Kicheche Laikipia in terms of diversity. They have all the usual plains game and the big cats, and on top of that a trio of superb near-endemics in the way of Grevy’s Zebra, reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx.  Plus healthy numbers of both black and white rhinos with their horns intact. 

And then I’d head straight to the Masai Mara, splitting my time there between a property in one of the conservancies to the north of the Mara, and ending with a few days in the Mara Triangle, in the north of the park. These two areas make a great combination, melding the freedom to go off-road inside the conservancy and the ability to drive at night, with the amazing grandeur and spectacle of the Mara Triangle. Inch for inch it is about as fascinating and rewarding an area as one could visit anywhere in Africa. The Mara Triangle is also one of Kenya’s most reliable areas to experience the great migration, within striking distance of several known crossing points. 

Kathy: On our recent visit to Kenya, I was amazed by the abundance of wildlife in three of the private conservancies to the north of the Masai Mara, namely Naboisho, Mara North and Lemek. Almost everywhere we looked, there were zebras in their hundreds. Plus masses of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, topis, eland, buffaloes (some huge herds!), giraffes (so many!), tons of wildebeest, hippos wherever there was water,  elephants – and several prides of lions.  

I would recommend to prospective travelers to Africa to spend up to a week or so in the Masai Mara, split between two of the conservancies or by including an additional few days in a camp which does its game drives in the Mara Triangle, such as Olonana, Little Governors, or AndBeyond Bateleur Camp.   

In addition to the Mara, Kenya has several other superb safari destinations; call or email us and a member of the team will be happy to talk to you about Tsavo or Amboseli, Lewa, Meru or Samburu. We know them all really well and can give you just the right advice as to how they can fit in with a trip to the Mara.  

For now, I will concentrate on the three properties which we visited in the conservancies. Any one of these would be an ideal ‘anchor’ property for a Kenya safari. 

Saruni Leopard Hill – Mara Naboisho Conservancy

The female management team at Leopard Hill is very accommodating and they want to insure your comfort and enjoyment at their lovely little camp. The communal area is attached to the dining area and you will enjoy the view – beautiful fig trees surrounded by 3 waterholes. The dining/communal area is on a platform and there are steps leading to a small area where guests congregate around a small bonfire in the evenings.  

This camp has 6 tents. We were in tent #3. I really liked the generous size and layout of the tents. The rooms also have a skylight which you can open up at night to ‘sleep under the stars.’ Not advisable during the rainy season though. The rooms have a king-size bed, great pillows, desk, daybed/couch, double sinks and separate shower and toilet as well as an outdoor shower. Plenty of room for your gear and a great patio overlooking the game reserve. The rooms are spaced far enough apart for privacy. They also have a honeymoon tent with a nice lounge and a family tent – two tents next to each other with doors (instead of zippers) suitable for a family of 4 

A bonus at Leopard Hill is a complimentary 30-minute back and neck massage – don’t pass this up! The spa tent is in a nice, quiet area and the masseur is a man named Viki Geel who has 18 years’ experience. He is excellent! Viki also offers yoga and stretching. I am so glad I took advantage of this and if I had more time, I certainly would have spent more time at the Leopard Hill Spa!

We had a ‘surprise’ romantic dinner on our patio the second night – very well done.

Wake up – coffee/tea are brought to your room.

We had great game viewing and a bonus here – and in the other conservancies – is the off-roading which makes a big difference if you want to pull up close to a lioness with her cubs hidden in the bushes. As we did.  

Kicheche Camp:  Mara North Conservancy, Masai Mara

Andrew Obaga is the manager at Kicheche Mara and he and his very competent staff know how to make you feel comfortable and right at home. One is introduced to the camp after walking over a small bridge and up a short hill. At the top of the hill is an amazing and unexpected sight – a beautiful and well-maintained mowed lawn with communal dining and photography tents. Early the next morning there was a little family of three tiny dik-dik antelope on the edge of the lawn; humans are not the only ones who find it appealing. 

The camp: the first communal tent is a photographer’s dream tent offering the photographer access to WIFI, computers and more. The photographer’s tent has just about everything needed for safari photographers – a real bonus in the bush! Right next door is a restroom. Walk a few more feet and you will find the dining tent with a lovely patio – indoor/outdoor dining. Two more communal tents with nice lounges, bars and two more tented restrooms complete the communal area.

Kicheche Mara has a total of 10 guest tents including a family tent. They can make any of the tents into a triple. For example if you want to travel with your mom and sister – they would be happy to put 3 adults in one tent – no problem! The pathway to each tent is clearly labeled using Swahili animal names for the tents. We were in Punda Milia (zebra). Arriving at our tent, the main power switch is a handy pull-string at the front of the tent opening. The tents are very spacious and well-appointed with a daybed, a king-sized bed, desk, open closet for all your items, a bathroom with a separate toilet, two sinks and a nice shower. We had a comfy patio with chairs and a small table so we could watch for any activity at the river. 

Kicheche is a fabulous camp and well worth a 3-night visit. Tents on our side were:  Kiboko, Punda Milia, Topi, and Kanga. They are all a short walk to the main area. Andrew told us the ‘honeymoon tent’ is located quite a bit further from the main area. Wake up – coffee/tea is brought to your room.

The food was excellent at Kicheche. After each meal the chef checked on us to make sure we were satisfied.

As was the case at the other camps in the conservancies, game viewing at Kicheche Mara commenced right out of camp. Twice, driving into and out of the camp, there were three elephant bulls with huge tusks to be seen hanging out in a marshy area close to camp; apparently they spend much of the dry season in that spot.  

Hemingways Ol Seki Mara:  Naboisho Conservancy, Masai Mara

Hemingway’s Ol Seki camp in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Masai Mara represents complete luxury on safari. The highly accomplished manager, Debbie Paul, gave us a very warm welcome – she had clearly read the guest information form – and we felt like old friends right away. Debbie took us to our room, #5, which was the closest to the lodge. The rooms are equipped with everything you will need including an indoor and outdoor shower, a gorgeous bathtub – quite a luxury on safari – and a separate/private toilet. The room has a king-size bed, a day bed and desk and a spacious wrap around patio perfect for game viewing from your room. I really liked their early morning wake-up – complete with coffee/tea and a to-go insulated mug to take on your morning game drive. You don’t want to waste any time in the mornings, and this was an added bonus.

The dining area has views of the water hole and game viewing area which can be great entertainment while dining or enjoying the communal area. The lounge and bar are attached to the dining area and they overlook a tempting pool and deck with lounge chairs and umbrellas – it’s really hard to beat this view. Relaxing in the dining area or pool area and game viewing at the same time – don’t forget your binoculars.

If you are traveling with your family, you may want to consider the Simba or Chui Suites. Ideal for parties of around 4 to 6, they are exclusive use with a private vehicle and chef, a pool and in a beautiful setting.

At Ol Seki we enjoyed great food and service and a great spa – reasonable treatment prices too. Facials and massages are offered – a wonderful way to relax during the siesta time before the afternoon game drive. 

You won’t want to leave Ol Seki!

Saruni Wild – Lemek Conservancy, Masai Mara

One more Mara property which we checked out but did not overnight at, was Saruni Wild in the Lemek Conservancy. Saruni Wild is a beautiful and welcoming classic African bush camp. This small, tented camp has a great location in the Lemek Conservancy, right on the edge of the Mara North Conservancy, with access to both for game drives. What we both liked was the instant access to several excellent game viewing areas in the Mara. On our drive from Saruni Wild, we found a female cheetah and we were told that lions had been spotted in the area just the previous day.  

Saruni Wild has an ideal mix of features which will make it easy to send our guests there in future. Effective, hands-on management, friendly staff and well-designed, well-maintained common areas and tents. All tents have the same basic layout – a king-sized bed, desk, open closet, double sinks, separate toilet and shower area.  Tents are placed far enough away for great privacy. There is no age limit for this camp.

Contact us for more information

Our Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. team has visited various Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania properties over the last couple of months. Coming up soon: educational trips to Madagascar and Mozambique. We’d love to help you arrange your first or next trip to Africa to one of these or several other African destinations. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

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Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

We’re well into 2024 and all we can say is wow! The year started with a bang and it hasn’t stopped. We are fielding more inquiries for African travel than we probably ever have in 30+ plus years and so are our colleagues in the Safari Professionals of the Americas. It appears that international travel is fast getting back to pre-pandemic levels and then some. Thank you for your business!

Where is everybody going? If I pull up the next few trips which our guests will be embarking on, I see southern Tanzania (Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater), Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Actually, quite a few guests are heading to Botswana, mostly on itineraries combining it with Hwange National Park, Victoria Falls and even Lake Kariba. Also on the list? Madagascar and Namibia. A little later in the year Kenya starts to pop up, as well as Zambia, Uganda and Rwanda. Many of the Southern Africa trips include Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city’.

If I dig down a little deeper into the itineraries, I notice several of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties there. These are places where we’d personally be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives.

In no particular order, here are a few:

MalaMala Game Reserve, Sabi Sand

MalaMala is the 800-lb gorilla of the safari properties in the Sabi Sand reserve. Stay three or four nights here and you will see the ‘Big Five’ mammals and a lot more. Perhaps even the ‘Magnificent Seven:’ lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo, African painted dog and cheetah. Few places in Africa present such a splendid buffet of wildlife photography moments. You really, really want to see leopards walking around in broad daylight? MalaMala’s the spot.

Jabulani Safari

Jabulani is about as multifaceted as it gets in the luxury safari lodge category. It starts with reliably good game-viewing – of course. Mix in an extraordinary elephant experience, with a chance to interact with (hand-feed and touch) two or three of the older bulls of the Jabulani herd, being Jabulani, Sebakwe or Somopane. And top it off with the amazing conservation story attached to the property. It dates back to 1997 when the original co-owner, Lente Roode, saved a young elephant orphan (Jabulani) who had been abandoned in a mud pit. That tradition has been carried on to the present, with Jabulani Safari now owned and managed by Lente’s daughter Adine Roode. Layered on top of all of this, is Jabulani’s status as a Relais & Chateaux property. No matter how demanding your palate or your penchant for good wines – the chefs and the sommelier will be happy to see you.

Olonana Camp, Masai Mara

In a blog post following up on our short stay at Olonana a couple of years ago, I was highly complimentary about the overall experience. One thing I did forget to mention? The hippos in the Mara River can be noisy when they greet each other early in the morning upon returning from their nightly feeding forays. So be sure to pack some earplugs. Something else which I could have made more clear: game drives from Olonana head into the Mara Triangle which is currently the best area in the entire Mara, also the best monitored in terms of vehicles per sighting. Driving through the Triangle in Nov. 2023 we were simply astonished at its beauty and abundant wildlife. A pride of lions right by the road, a martial eagle on its prey, a journey of giraffes in near perfect light – none of us could have scripted it any better.

Lewa Wilderness, Kenya

Is there a more ideal combination of place, people, experiences and hospitality than Lewa Wilderness in Kenya – or anywhere Africa – right now? Maybe one or two, but it is a super short list. The rooms, the wildlife, the activities – it’s superlatives piled on superlatives. It even extends to the wildlife. There are zebras and giraffes in many parts of Africa, but they’re not Grevy’s zebras or reticulated giraffes. Or beisa oryx. These superb – and in some cases endangered – regional endemics are easily seen on game drives from Lewa Wilderness. Lewa is also one of the best places in East Africa to see both white and black rhinos in their natural state with their horns intact.

Take a 48-hour virtual safari with us at Lewa.

Chitabe Camp, Botswana

Absolutely the best game viewing likely anywhere in Africa is happening at Chitabe in northern Botswana, day after day, right now – and for the foreseeable future. I receive a daily WhatsApp ‘Chitabe Frame a Day’ message from the camp with the latest game viewing photographs and it is a stream of leopards, cheetahs, lions, painted dogs, hyenas, and quite often, interaction between some of these. Lots of action. And all with not having to drive very far; the concession is one of the smaller ones in Botswana, so you could be on to something special within 15 minutes or so out of camp.

The Belmond Mt. Nelson Hotel, Cape Town

The ‘Nellie’ or the ‘Pink Lady’ as it is affectionately known, is a Cape Town institution. Its beautiful palm-lined entrance way and light salmon pink exterior are timeless, dating back more than 100 years. The rooms and suites have all been updated as have the common areas. Spend at least three nights because there’s a lot to see and do beyond exploring the city and the Cape peninsula. The high tea at the Nellie is as good as it gets; it has a great pool (two of them) and gym, and be sure to ask the concierge to book a table at the Nelson’s Eye restaurant one night. It’s an experience. What really sets Mt. Nelson apart from any other Cape Town city hotel are its grounds and the gardens. It’s like staying in a not-so-small private park right in the middle of Cape Town – which makes it an ideal companion to a safari trip, either before or after.

Check out all of our favorite hotels in Cape Town here.

If any of these properties look like spots you too would wake up happy in, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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