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South Africa

Take Yourself On Safari

7th April 2024

Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

5th April 2024

Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

Reviewing the trips which our Fish Eagle Safaris guests will be embarking on over the remainder of 2024, several more of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties popped up. These are places where we would be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives. Eat your heart out, Bill Murray.

Jao Camp, Okavango Delta – Botswana

Imagine being dropped off – blindfolded – on a small island in the Okavango Delta. As the helicopter noise fades into the background, you take off the blindfold. Where are you? It could be one of dozens of spots in the Delta. All stunningly beautiful, but not distinctively unique. Not so the Jao Concession in the western part of the Delta. Here, the typical Delta mosaic of palm-fringed islands, crystal clear waterways, papyrus-fringed lagoons and lush reedbeds takes on an identity of its own. Practically unmistakeable. Even on just my second visit, it became clear that this part of Northern Botswana was special and unique.   

Photo credit Dana Allen

There are several superb safari camps in the concession, with Wilderness’ Jao Camp at the pinnacle of luxury, comfort and all-round excellence. There are pretty spots in the Delta, and gorgeous riverine forests, and then there’s the spot where Jao was built. When on safari I suffer from pretty intense FOMO and almost never miss a game drive. At Jao, the tables are turned. You could miss out by getting into a vehicle and leaving camp. This is where you want to spend an extra night or even two, to revel in the sybaritic splendor of the spacious and elegantly designed tents, to linger over an exquisite dinner in the museum room, or to just spend a few hours on the verandah, soaking in the atmosphere. The entire camp is elevated about 3 to 5 meters above ground level, enhancing the views and adding a tree-house like feel. Sooner or later you might actually feel like venturing out, and of course there’s plenty to do beyond R & R. The camp offers daily guided wildlife safaris, as well as boat trips and mokoro excursions (subject to water levels), allowing visitors to explore the rich biodiversity of the Okavango Delta.

Mashatu Euphorbia Lodge – South Africa

Mashatu Euphorbia Villas is about as close as a safari lodge gets to being a work of art. It all starts with a winding drive up a steep hill into the most enchanting euphorbia forest you’ve ever seen. These stark, foreboding cactus plants – sometimes referred to as candelabra trees – loom alongside the drive into camp, a harbinger of what is to come. Crest the hill and suddenly you’re looking at as dramatic an entrance as there is to any safari camp in Africa. The experience builds from there. A  stunning lounge and dining area – not to mention the outdoor space, the boma and the nest seating area, perched on the edge of a 30-meter high cliff. The view? You just have to see it in person. During our recent visit the same superlatives could be heaped on the suites and the food. Impeccable. 

The game viewing experience at Mashatu is exceptional, with three species of big cats – lions, leopards and cheetahs – being seen regularly. This alone makes Mashatu a desirable destination, but there’s a lot more. Mashatu’s elephants are known for being tolerant to the presence of vehicles and you are likely to get surprisingly close to them from time to time. Other notable species include giraffes, zebras, eland (Africa’s largest antelope) and brown hyenas. Expert guides will take you on game drives or walks through the reserve, and as there is no prohibition on driving off-road or at night, you will almost assuredly have multiple opportunities to get close up and personal with many of these special mammals and the superb birdlife. Done enough game-driving? There are many other (optional, at additional cost) activities to enjoy at Mashatu including horseback riding, mountain biking, observing the animals and birds from a hide/blind (subject to availability) and bird watching.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – Rwanda

Wilderness Sabyinyo Lodge is hands down our favorite property in the Volcanoes National Park area. This beautiful lodge is located in a lush garden setting (the golden monkeys sometimes make a surprise visit) at the base of the Volcanoes National Park, with gorgeous views over the valley below and up towards several dormant volcanoes in the background. It is just minutes away from the Volcanoes National Park headquarters for the morning briefing before gorilla treks. The hospitality, food and rooms – and the main lodge – are all first class, and the lodge is 100% community-owned, with a sterling conservation ethos. There are several other lodges in the area with an even higher price tag (Sabyinyo is no slouch in that department) and bigger, fancier, rooms. We like Sabyinyo for providing an all-round stay which feels like spending time at someone’s private mountain lodge. Everything is to scale, it is relaxed yet with good attention to detail, and just feels like it fits into the environment without being jarring or out of place in any way.

Victoria Falls Hotel – Zimbabwe

There’s really no more interesting or fascinating place to spend a couple of nights in Vic Falls, than the Victoria Falls Hotel. Despite having all of the modern conveniences and much improved food and beverage service (compared with a few years ago), the hotel has lost none of its old-world charm. Staying there feels every bit like being transported back to the early 1900’s. Beautiful gardens, a first-class curio shop, interesting restaurants (one of which puts on a traditional dancing performance nightly) and ideally located to venture out on activities. The Victoria Falls Hotel is not only the ‘grande dame’ of all the hotels in the village, it also occupies a prime spot with a superb view over the Batoka Gorge, with the bridge spanning the chasm between Zimbabwe and Zambia right in the line of sight. Truly a timeless classic which has been carefully nurtured and maintained over the years, with all the rooms now fitted with modern bathrooms, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. The grounds and the public areas are worth exploring with a myriad of birds and smaller mammals around.

Tswalu Motse, Cape Kalahari –  South Africa

Tswalu is one of our favorite properties for many reasons, mostly because of the excellent game viewing and particularly the chance to see some special mammals such as habituated meerkats, black rhino and both pangolin and aardvark. It also has lots of desert-adapted animals like bat-eared foxes, gemsbok and springbok. Plus good predator numbers including cheetahs and lions. Tswalu includes a private guide and vehicle with all bookings and the guiding is superb. At Tswalu, you will also have the opportunity (included for all guests) to dine at Klein Jan, created by South Africa’s first Michelin Star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who owns Restaurant Jan in Nice, France. Klein Jan has become one of the world’s go-to restaurants despite its remote, isolated location in the Northern Cape’s Kalahari Desert. 

Thinking about including one or more of these stellar properties in your first or next trip to Africa? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

23rd February 2024

Groundhog Day Properties – 2024

We’re well into 2024 and all we can say is wow! The year started with a bang and it hasn’t stopped. We are fielding more inquiries for African travel than we probably ever have in 30+ plus years and so are our colleagues in the Safari Professionals of the Americas. It appears that international travel is fast getting back to pre-pandemic levels and then some. Thank you for your business!

Where is everybody going? If I pull up the next few trips which our guests will be embarking on, I see southern Tanzania (Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater), Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Actually, quite a few guests are heading to Botswana, mostly on itineraries combining it with Hwange National Park, Victoria Falls and even Lake Kariba. Also on the list? Madagascar and Namibia. A little later in the year Kenya starts to pop up, as well as Zambia, Uganda and Rwanda. Many of the Southern Africa trips include Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city’.

If I dig down a little deeper into the itineraries, I notice several of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties there. These are places where we’d personally be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives.

In no particular order, here are a few:

MalaMala Game Reserve, Sabi Sand

MalaMala is the 800-lb gorilla of the safari properties in the Sabi Sand reserve. Stay three or four nights here and you will see the ‘Big Five’ mammals and a lot more. Perhaps even the ‘Magnificent Seven:’ lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo, African painted dog and cheetah. Few places in Africa present such a splendid buffet of wildlife photography moments. You really, really want to see leopards walking around in broad daylight? MalaMala’s the spot.

Jabulani Safari

Jabulani is about as multifaceted as it gets in the luxury safari lodge category. It starts with reliably good game-viewing – of course. Mix in an extraordinary elephant experience, with a chance to interact with (hand-feed and touch) two or three of the older bulls of the Jabulani herd, being Jabulani, Sebakwe or Somopane. And top it off with the amazing conservation story attached to the property. It dates back to 1997 when the original co-owner, Lente Roode, saved a young elephant orphan (Jabulani) who had been abandoned in a mud pit. That tradition has been carried on to the present, with Jabulani Safari now owned and managed by Lente’s daughter Adine Roode. Layered on top of all of this, is Jabulani’s status as a Relais & Chateaux property. No matter how demanding your palate or your penchant for good wines – the chefs and the sommelier will be happy to see you.

Olonana Camp, Masai Mara

In a blog post following up on our short stay at Olonana a couple of years ago, I was highly complimentary about the overall experience. One thing I did forget to mention? The hippos in the Mara River can be noisy when they greet each other early in the morning upon returning from their nightly feeding forays. So be sure to pack some earplugs. Something else which I could have made more clear: game drives from Olonana head into the Mara Triangle which is currently the best area in the entire Mara, also the best monitored in terms of vehicles per sighting. Driving through the Triangle in Nov. 2023 we were simply astonished at its beauty and abundant wildlife. A pride of lions right by the road, a martial eagle on its prey, a journey of giraffes in near perfect light – none of us could have scripted it any better.

Lewa Wilderness, Kenya

Is there a more ideal combination of place, people, experiences and hospitality than Lewa Wilderness in Kenya – or anywhere Africa – right now? Maybe one or two, but it is a super short list. The rooms, the wildlife, the activities – it’s superlatives piled on superlatives. It even extends to the wildlife. There are zebras and giraffes in many parts of Africa, but they’re not Grevy’s zebras or reticulated giraffes. Or beisa oryx. These superb – and in some cases endangered – regional endemics are easily seen on game drives from Lewa Wilderness. Lewa is also one of the best places in East Africa to see both white and black rhinos in their natural state with their horns intact.

Take a 48-hour virtual safari with us at Lewa.

Chitabe Camp, Botswana

Absolutely the best game viewing likely anywhere in Africa is happening at Chitabe in northern Botswana, day after day, right now – and for the foreseeable future. I receive a daily WhatsApp ‘Chitabe Frame a Day’ message from the camp with the latest game viewing photographs and it is a stream of leopards, cheetahs, lions, painted dogs, hyenas, and quite often, interaction between some of these. Lots of action. And all with not having to drive very far; the concession is one of the smaller ones in Botswana, so you could be on to something special within 15 minutes or so out of camp.

The Belmond Mt. Nelson Hotel, Cape Town

The ‘Nellie’ or the ‘Pink Lady’ as it is affectionately known, is a Cape Town institution. Its beautiful palm-lined entrance way and light salmon pink exterior are timeless, dating back more than 100 years. The rooms and suites have all been updated as have the common areas. Spend at least three nights because there’s a lot to see and do beyond exploring the city and the Cape peninsula. The high tea at the Nellie is as good as it gets; it has a great pool (two of them) and gym, and be sure to ask the concierge to book a table at the Nelson’s Eye restaurant one night. It’s an experience. What really sets Mt. Nelson apart from any other Cape Town city hotel are its grounds and the gardens. It’s like staying in a not-so-small private park right in the middle of Cape Town – which makes it an ideal companion to a safari trip, either before or after.

Check out all of our favorite hotels in Cape Town here.

If any of these properties look like spots you too would wake up happy in, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

27th December 2023

Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

South Africa’s ‘City of Gold’ – Johannesburg – is widely referred to as Joburg or sometimes Jozi for short. You can even use ‘Egoli’ which means ‘place of gold.’ For those in the know, the city has become more than simply an overnight stop between flights. Johannesburg has been described as ‘the new cool capital of the Southern Hemisphere.’ Done the right way, it is a destination which merits a minimum two night stay.

Joburg is the financial capital of Africa, a complex combination of first and third world cities, vibrant and alive with art, fashion and design. It is definitely ‘the’ city to explore to get real insight into the soul of South Africa. But the city is also vast and difficult to navigate, so it is best done with a professional guide.

Most visitors end up staying in Sandton or Rosebank or somewhere in the northern suburbs or close to the airport. That’s ok, as long as you don’t confuse business centers like Sandton and Rosebank – with their business hotels and shopping malls – with the city itself. Downtown and in the areas closer to the center of the city is where it all happens: the street life, the architecture, art installations, food & drinks, graffiti – the rough edges which make it alive and interesting.

Having lived and worked in Johannesburg for several years I will admit to having a soft spot for it. For one thing, the weather is pretty much perfect. Cool in the winter but hardly ever below freezing, and never too hot in summer, with maximums around 85F. The city has a somewhat undeserved reputation for being ‘dangerous’ but in reality it is not dissimilar to most large cities anywhere in Africa – and beyond. Potentially dangerous if you stray into the wrong place at the wrong time. Otherwise just like anywhere else.

In an attempt to stay somewhat up to date with conditions, trends, ‘new’ places to see and visit and to revisit some favorite spots, I periodically venture out in Johannesburg, accompanied by a professional driver-guide. Which is the proper way to do it, and which we recommend for our guests.

Constitution Hill

This last November, Kathy and I did a day tour with a driver-guide from Jarat Tours and a step-on guide – James Delaney from Jo’burg Gurus. We revisited Constitution Hill, where visitors can witness and learn about some of the harsh conditions and regulations which prisoners from the apartheid era had to endure. Many men and women were incarcerated within its walls during its 100-year history and it is sobering to reflect on the humiliations and injustices to which its inmates were subjected. Despite all that, there is an air of renewal and promise in the visit as well when you enter and look around the Constitutional Court (South Africa’s supreme court). Many of the bricks used in the construction of the highest court of the land came from the now-demolished Awaiting Trial Block, part of the old prison complex.    

A bit later, we drove to Maboneng – a revitalized neighborhood – where we met our guide, James Delaney, over a cup of coffee. Maboneng, the adjacent Jewel City and nearby graffiti hotspots make for interesting observations of an African city in transition. Several areas have been creatively converted from abandoned warehouses or office blocks to vibrant districts with street art murals, African craft traders, good coffee and people watching.

We walked around the area for a bit, checking out a couple of studios, shops, and restaurants, before strolling over to the Jewel City area. We observed some interesting graffiti and wall art and enjoyed a brief chat with some of the locals. It was refreshing and insightful to be around ‘regular’ people in South Africa and to just be a bystander in an area where Joburg residents were going about their business.  This is of course not the case in the safari properties where guests meet and interact with mostly professional hospitality staff.

Victoria Yards

Our next stop was Victoria Yards where James Delaney has his art studio. Just 20 minutes from Johannesburg airport, this 100-year-old complex of Victorian-era industrial buildings (originally a steam laundry) has become home to a variety of artists, teachers, learners and other creative enterprises. I was immediately captivated by the red brick buildings contrasting with the bright green vegetable gardens and fruit trees. I soon realized that there’s quite a bit to see and do at Victoria Yards. Currently, Victoria Yards has more than 50 tenants which include artists, crafters, ceramicists, clothes makers, furniture designers and a jeweler – and on a tour you can meet the people making these inspiring African creations. Well-known artists including James Delaney and Blessing Ngobeni, and fashion designer Tshepo all have studios here.

Victoria Yards has a coffee shop with bakery, a sorbet shop, pizza, and a fish & chips restaurant which we will definitely try the next time we are there. Our advice? Take your time, support the local economy and pick up some gifts before your next flight. Kathy bought a couple of Shwe bags, a steal at about US$10 for a small bag, and up to US$25 for a bigger size. Otherwise just slow down and have a snack in this gentle setting. There’s a craft gin distillery and bar on the premises as well.

Victoria Yards is in an old suburb of Joburg (on the border of Bertrams and Lorentzville) close to downtown, on the edge of some rough neighborhoods, but it is a safe enclave. The surrounding disadvantaged community benefits directly from opportunities created there. Victoria Yards also has a school for local children on the premises and many community projects. We think it is ideal for American guests who have a few hours to kill either on their day of arrival or before their flight back. From Victoria Yards we went to 44 Stanley for lunch. It’s likewise a great spot, similar to Victoria Yards (same developer) but more retail focused. 44 Stanley – which is in Braamfontein Werf – is a collection of light industrial buildings set amid picturesque courtyards with pretty greenery. The mostly boutique stores offer unique goods, from local designer labels to ceramics, furniture and Joburg mementos.

The Wilds

Facing the daunting prospect of a 16-hour flight commencing later that day,  a stroll in The Wilds – a pocket park right on the edge of downtown Johannesburg – was just what the doctor ordered. For many years The Wilds was a ‘no go,’ crime-ridden area. No more. All thanks to the effort of James Delaney and the thousands of Joburg volunteers inspired by him. The results of years of restoration and upkeep, including a huge sculpture installation which led to more and more public involvement, has turned The Wilds into a delightful spot to visit. The sizable area, mostly encompassing large hillsides planted with South African flora, is beautifully maintained and safe, with people enjoying picnics on a nice warm Jo’burg summer day. The Wilds nature reserve is just minutes from the inner city, but you’ll feel like you’re far away. There are many sculptures, great views of the Joburg city skyline – and walking is great for the body and mind, even if you don’t have a long flight scheduled. 

James Delaney is a contemporary painter and printmaker with a myriad of other interests, hobbies and passions. From designing parks and safari lodges to marketing and photography, among others. With his diverse interests and experience gained while traveling the world (more than 53 countries including regular annual visits to New York City), and his entertaining conversational style, James is the ideal guide on a spontaneous ‘let’s see what happens next’ tour incorporating some of his favorite spots in Jo’burg. You can find James Delaney’s art studio at Victoria Yards in Lorentzville, Space No: 8G2 (Victoria Yards is open 9am to 5pm on weekdays; 10am to 5pm on Saturdays; 10am to 4pm on Sundays). Follow him on Instagram @delaneyartist, or visit his website at delaney.co.za

James’ brother Simon Delaney – an attorney in Jo’burg – is also a part time guide with Jo’burg gurus and he is the person for guests who want to delve a bit deeper in the struggle against  apartheid and its aftermath, and specifically the Mandela experience.  

For more information about our custom trips to Southern Africa which often include a day or two in Johannesburg, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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27th May 2023

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Botswana
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4th August 2022

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Zambia

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Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

17th August 2023

Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

We first heard the lion roaring around 9 pm on our first night at MalaMala Camp in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, just back in our room #4 after dinner, in late July. The roaring was close. How close? Close enough for the sound to easily penetrate the solid lodge wall and loud enough to be heard above water filling a tub. It was loud. 

Kathy and I looked at each other with a ‘yes that’s exactly what I think it is’ expression and dropped whatever we were doing. We have heard lions roaring in many settings over the years but it arrests us every time. More so than bird calls or hyenas cackling or zebras braying or wildebeest grunting – a lion roaring is the ultimate sound of Africa. 

We walked to the front patio door, opened it – but not all the way – and peered out into the darkness. The lion roared again, even closer. Upon momentary reflection, we thought maybe it would be just fine to listen to it from inside the room. We closed the patio door. The lion called again, several times, the last roars fading away in the distance around midnight. 

Hearing a lion roaring outside our room was a fitting start to a safari and a big ‘welcome back’ to MalaMala at the end of an exciting first day at one of our favorite camps in all of Africa. The one to which we had sent more  guests than to any other safari property over the last 25 years.

MalaMala has a certain reputation to maintain. We tell prospective visitors that it offers the most consistently good viewing of Africa’s ‘Big Five’ mammals of any of the private reserves in South Africa. How come? Location, location, location. It takes just one look at a map of the Sabi Sand Reserve to see why MalaMala is the undisputed 800-lb gorilla of safari properties in the Sabi Sand. Located just to the west of the massive Kruger Park with only the Sand River separating the two, it is ideally situated to attract and retain wildlife year-round and more so in the dry season from about May through October and November. It is then – in the dry season – that MalaMala really shines and all because of the 20 km (13 miles) of the Sand River which runs right through the property. With no other source of freshwater anywhere remotely close,  the animals are drawn to the river as bees are to nectar. Twice a day, when MalaMala’s guests set out on morning and afternoon game drives in open 4-wheel drive vehicles, the guides head to the area bordering the western edge of the river.  With predictable results. Superb game-viewing, day in and day out, week after week. 

On this particular trip,  it started right away. Driving onto the property from Kruger Mpumalanga Airport at around one in the afternoon we were not expecting much.  Simply because many of the animals are usually resting up in the shade in  the middle of the day. Just not on this day at MalaMala. Within half an hour we had seen 10 different mammal species including elephants, giraffes and a leopard. A beautiful female leopard, right by the side of the dirt track, quite unperturbed by the presence of the vehicle. 

Of course, that was just the beginning. Over the next couple of days – with our energetic female guide Steff in charge – we enjoyed several spectacular wildlife sightings and experiences.

LIONS LIONS AND MORE LIONS

At the end of our first game drive, we came upon a big pride of lions, consisting of  six adult females with no fewer than nine cubs, varying in age from four to nine months. Initially, as the sun was setting over the western bank of the Sand River, we watched the cubs playing and mock-fighting. Predictably, young lions become playful and energetic towards the end of the day, endlessly running each other down, developing incipient hunting skills, starting to assert dominance, and generally just having a royal fun time.  

By the time the pride started to walk down to and then through the shallow stream of the Sand River, Steff had alerted me to the fact that this was a special photo opportunity. “This is not the Okavango Delta,” she said. “Sabi Sand guides don’t often see lions crossing a river or wading in the water, so be sure to get a good shot of it.”  

Photographic conditions were far from ideal, to put it mildly.  There was very little in the way of ambient light, making it near impossible to avoid blurring of moving subjects – in this case the tiny lions. And their moms. Also, we had just seconds to get it right. I was happy to come away with a few decent exposures which reflect the special setting and unusual occurrence of so many cubs walking through the shallow Sand River.  

LEOPARDS – MORE THAN ONCE

The Sabi Sand Reserve and MalaMala in particular is well known as a place to see leopards. The habitat – with lots of riverine bush and leopard-friendly thickets – is ideal. Remarkably, as many as 20 to 25 different leopards are seen at MalaMala every month, which is astonishing, considering their generally furtive, elusive behavior. Just as remarkable is the extent to which these gorgeous cats are habituated to the presence of the vehicles. They carry on with their activities seemingly oblivious to the presence of the cars.  

Over the years, we have been fortunate to observe several of MalaMala’s celebrated leopards, and this time was no different. On our first morning drive there, we bumped into a female leopard with two cubs, close to the airstrip. Later that same day we observed a female who appeared to be hunting. Topping both of those sightings was seeing a powerful male leopard that very night, right in camp, not 20 meters from the edge of the verandah, walking with a female. A mating pair of leopards in camp. That’s MalaMala!  

Currently there are five or six female leopards in MalaMala with babies, a veritable creche. It’s a harsh world out there and the offspring won’t all survive, but for the remainder of this season and beyond, visitors to MalaMala can be assured of a bounty of leopards just out there, just waiting to be seen. 

AFRICAN PAINTED DOG PUPPIES AT THE DEN

African painted dogs – also known as wild dogs – are special because they are rare and endangered. Seeing them anywhere, anytime, is considered a highlight of practically any safari. So we were thrilled to learn that a painted dog denning site had been discovered at MalaMala just weeks prior to our arrival, and that a handful of visits were being made to the site each day. MalaMala – and other responsible safari  camps all over Africa – take special precautions not to unduly interfere with and disrupt the area around a den. They are careful not to make too many tracks into the site, for fear of inadvertently leading hyenas or other predators right to the spot. Initially, no vehicles are allowed at all and it is only when the puppies reach an age of about 6 weeks or so that vehicles can approach. African painted dogs usually den in one of the driest months of the year – such as June or July – and often fairly close to water. The brood size is generally from 8 to 12.

On that Sunday morning Steff drove us all the way to the northern edge of the MalaMala property, eventually making a left turn off the boundary road and bumping slowly along a rudimentary track to the den site. Expectations were high. Observing an adult painted dog as we covered the last few meters bolstered our hopes. They’re here! Peering around the site, we counted two, three and eventually all six of the adult dogs making up the pack. Fascinating and beautiful as they were, we had puppies on our minds. There was no sight of them. The minutes ticked by. We had just about reached the end of our allotted 20 minutes (den site visits are purposefully kept short) and our hopes were starting to fade.  

Then it happened. Steff repositioned the vehicle and there they were: all nine of the pups – about 6 weeks old – running around the alpha female, their little white-tipped tails wagging furiously. Spellbound, we watched as the adorable creatures pounced on each other, play-fighting and starting to establish a pecking order, even as young as they were. Yet again photographic conditions were sub-par due to the distance and surroundings – the pups were mostly obscured in the grass – but this time it really didn’t matter. We were just thrilled to be able to see and experience them.  

A RARE CHEETAH SIGHTING – AND MORE

MalaMala is many things but it is not the best place in the Sabi Sand for cheetahs. The habitat isn’t ideal – more suitable for leopards – and the competition from other predators is fierce. Cheetahs are particularly sensitive to the presence of lions and hyenas, and that is probably the main reason why they avoid the area.  

All that being said, we did get lucky with a cheetah sighting on our second day at MalaMala. Lying up under a tree right off the boundary road with an adjacent private game reserve, the male cheetah lifted its head and looked in our direction. Bingo! We always consider ourselves to be extremely fortunate to find and see cheetahs due to their scarcity, their large territories and because they tend to move in and out of areas all the time. 

We had many other memorable sightings at MalaMala over the course of our short visit, including elephants – often seen in small herds in or on the banks of the Sand River – giraffes, buffaloes, the spectacular nyala antelope, zebras, wildebeest, and several other mammals.  

Birding at MalaMala – in fact anywhere in the Sabi Sand reserve – is always rewarding. Our single best sighting was a Verreaux eagle owl, which Kathy spotted high up in a tree on our way to a lion sighting. The owl was either yawning or trying to ‘unswallow’ something when I captured an image of it with its mouth wide open. 

IMPROVED FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND ALL-ROUND HOSPITALITY

There was a time when MalaMala was perhaps unfairly pegged as a property with great game-viewing, but with somewhat dated rooms, meals served buffet style and with drinks charged extra. Those days are long gone. Under its present community-owned management, MalaMala has undergone a significant, noticeable transformation in all things related to creature comforts. The rooms are superb, having undergone a major refashioning recently. With plenty of space and lots of light, the rooms are contemporary while retaining the ‘classic safari’ ambiance. Good interior lighting, effective air conditioning, plenty of privacy, significantly improved bathrooms with a large tub, shower and separate toilet, lots of storage space for your stuff, nice robes, well-stocked mini-bar: put it all together and you get an exceedingly comfortable, fun place to spend a few days. Slide open the doors to the verandah (just not when there’s lions roaring nearby) and there’s two chairs and a small table, all yours to enjoy the pretty view over the Sand River and any creatures which may be around.   

The food? Right off the bat, arriving late after a midday transfer from the airport, we were wowed by an excellent light lunch in the form of a garden fresh salad and a tuna sandwich. Both were delicious – and we had similar comments from a couple who arrived at about the same time as we did. None of the other meals fell short of this great first impression.  

In fact, each meal was memorable. Dinner on the first night featured carrot and ginger soup, an oxtail stew, salmon trout, and camembert in puff pastry. Brunch the following morning was – if anything – even more impressive with an a la carte line-up with as many as six ‘main course’ options ranging from a crumpet stack to a traditional safari breakfast, eggs benedict, and the special MalaMala salad. Our last night ended on a high note with the customary MalaMala boma experience, when guests are treated to an array of traditional grilled meats – fresh off the coals – and a range of side dishes and fresh salads. 

The bottom line? We’ve been sending guests to MalaMala since the 1990’s and our most recent visit will make it even easier to recommend the property. With a choice of three camps (MalaMala Camp, Sable Camp and Rattrays), the reserve caters for everyone from small groups and families to couples who desire a bit more privacy, and visitors who are keen to experience a more intimate, premier lodge. Space is already filling up fast for the high season months of 2024 so if you are thinking about a destination for next summer, don’t wait too long. Call our Houston office at 800-513-5222 or drop us a note on our website here.  

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When to go on safari

4th May 2023

When to go on safari

Just like with so many other things, inflationary trends have been affecting the safari space for several years now and we are anticipating increases of between 10% to as much as 18% for 2024, compared with the prices in effect for this year. Of course the best way to avoid any increases is to travel before the higher prices come into effect.  

Short of that, there are two main drivers of safari prices which can help you in the quest for an affordable yet high-quality African safari.  The two factors are place and season. Every safari destination in Africa has one or two prime locations and a handful of properties which command top dollar rates, particularly in the high demand season from about June through October. At that time of the year – in the prime safari areas – it is simply a matter of supply and demand and with as few rooms as they have available, prices can and do reach eye-watering levels.  

However, if you start looking for a trip at a different time and in a different place, the picture changes dramatically. You can go on safari in countries like Zimbabwe and Zambia at the peak of their high season and enjoy a fantastic trip which will be half the cost of a comparable trip in a country with more name recognition or a more established reputation. Likewise, the difference between high season and shoulder season pricing can be significant, with often only minor differences in the experience.  

The best prices are to be found for travel in the low demand season. Off-season travel in Africa can be immensely satisfying for visitors who can handle some heat and high humidity, and perhaps a thunderstorm or two. A little bit of discomfort is more than offset by the abundance of baby animals, the birds in breeding plumage, the lush, green surroundings, stunning sunsets and sunrises and by not having so many other people around.  

Here are our top recommendations for an African safari which will tick all the boxes: lots of animals, plenty of diversity, excellent guiding – at an affordable price.

SOUTH AFRICA AND NAMIBIA

South Africa is a veritable ‘world in one country’ with diversity that is rivaled only by Kenya. It has several excellent wildlife areas, most of which are malaria-free including the Eastern Cape, Waterberg and Madikwe. South Africa’s greater Kruger Park area has some of Africa’s best all-round safari camps in areas where the ‘Big Five’ mammals are seen practically every day of the year, week in and week out.  

Namibia leans more in the direction of a ‘desert and dune’ experience but the wildlife viewing in places such as Etosha in the north, the Waterberg Plateau, Damaraland and even on the edge of the Skeleton Coast such as along the Hoanib River, can be excellent. Namibia also has remarkable cultural diversity and a strong conservation ethos.

What is it that combines these two countries in my list of attractive safari propositions for the near future? The value of the South African Rand, of course. Hovering consistently around ZAR 18 to the US dollar and not likely to strengthen rapidly any time soon, the shrinking Rand creates excellent safari deals for dollar-wielding travelers. Not only in South Africa itself but also in neighboring Namibia whose currency – the Namibia dollar – is pegged at the same value as the South African Rand. 

SOUTH AFRICA TRIP IDEAS

There are a myriad of trip combinations which can be anchored by South Africa. It’s always a good idea to start your South Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city.’ Enjoy the local sights, two of which rank in Africa’s most celebrated natural wonders – Table Bay and Table Mountain. A little bit adventurous? Try the Platteklip hike up to the summit of Table Mountain and take the cable car trip down. Be sure to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (it’s a jewel), check out the endemic African penguins (Africa’s only penguin species) at Boulders Beach and take the funicular to the viewpoint at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.  

From Cape Town, fly to the greater Kruger Park area and spend a week on safari in a lodge of your choice – to fit your budget – in a private game reserve adjacent to the park. There are many options to choose from in areas like the Sabi Sand Reserve, Timbavati, Manyeleti and Thornybush. All of them are ‘Big Five’ reserves where you are likely to see elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and buffaloes over the course of a few days. And a lot else besides, of course.  Advantages of traveling here rather than some other destinations? Mostly the ability to drive off-road which can get you closer to some of the smaller cats and other special sightings, and also the ability to drive after the sun is down for a chance to see some of the nocturnal animals.

Instead of, or in addition to the Kruger Park area, you may wish to include some time in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region which also has abundant wildlife. Private game reserves like Kwandwe, Kariega and Shamwari are located in extraordinarily beautiful landscapes, filled with green rolling hills and valleys and patches of riverine forest, scrub and woodland. A bonus? This area is malaria-free so is ideal for families with young children or anyone wanting to avoid having to use malaria prophylaxis.  

Two other attractive safari destinations in South Africa include the Waterberg and Madikwe regions, both of which are also in malaria-free areas. Of course, it is easy to travel from South Africa into any of the neighboring countries including Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia.

NAMIBIA TRIP IDEAS

Namibia is very much a ‘desert and dune’ destination, with the area around Sossusvlei with its giant red sand dunes being considered Namibia’s signature sight. So by all means spend a couple of days there and marvel at the scene of a white gravel plain with apricot dunes in the background, an azure blue sky and stark, semi-fossilized trees providing a focal point for the quintessential Namibia photograph. 

Of course from there you’d want to go on safari and find some of the country’s signature animals such as the gemsbok, black-faced impala, springbok and Damara dik-dik. Together with elephants, black and white rhino, and the big cats. All of these and more can be found in the greater Etosha National Park area to the north and elsewhere. A little beyond the regular safari circuit lies the Skeleton Coast National Park which we regularly include on Namibia trips, either by having guests spend a few days at a camp on the edge of the park or right inside it, or by doing a fly-in safari which whisks guests from one enigmatic spot to another. There’s a lot more to Namibia including the quaint town of Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay harbor with bird-laden estuaries and worthwhile marine excursions, and remote safari camps in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. This is where guests can embark on day safaris in search of the elusive black rhino, a successful day culminating with the guests approaching the black rhinos on foot from a safe and respectful distance. There will be a small team from Namibia’s successful ‘Save the Rhino’ Trust on hand to provide background information on the success of the program, and the challenges ahead. 

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

Zimbabwe and Zambia are two of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. Prospects for Zimbabwe’s tourism sector have taken a much more positive turn now that the country is fully in the post-Mugabe era. Despite having a superior safari product, the Zimbabwe properties are not able to command the stellar pricing of some of its competitors – notably Botswana – Which creates opportunities for visitors to enjoy a fantastic safari – very much comparable to that of Botswana – at literally 50% of the Botswana cost, in the high season months from June through October.

Zambia is perhaps just not as well known as it should be and its safari season is quite short with many of its camps in the South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue regions being closed for the rainy season from November through the end of March. None of this affects the safari experience in Zambia. In fact, a Zambia safari delivers a wonderful all-round experience with none of the congestion of some of its most popular rivals and at a much lower price point. Zambia has even shelved its visa entry fee of $50 per person.

For Zimbabwe, our associates Imvelo Safaris have some  dazzling specials for the low-demand season, with great savings for families traveling with children and single travelers. These include a stay 7/pay 5 offer from November 2023 through March 2024 (except for the holidays) and a free private guide and vehicle for groups of four or more. There’s more: children under 18 will be accommodated free of charge (park fees and transfers only) on any stay of three nights or longer, from January 1 through the end of April 2024. Victoria Falls, Hwange, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools: a Zimbabwe trip is filled with excitement, big game, lots of optional activities such as boating, fishing, and foot safaris – for less than you might anticipate.  

Most Zimbabwe itineraries include two or more of the areas below, in no specific sequence:  

Victoria Falls – usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls & perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi. The Falls are an awesome sight in April and May particularly – when the Zambezi is in flood stage – but they are always worth seeing from the Zimbabwe side (main falls).  

Hwange National park – This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of elephants, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs. So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana, or for that matter Kenya. Rhinos have been re-introduced to the Hwange area which now (again, as in the past) makes the park a ‘Big Five’ destination. There’s more. Hwange has a couple of very special antelopes not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally interesting roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and dozens of other families of birds. Hwange is an ideal park for walking safaris, mostly because of the proficiency of the Zimbabwe professional guides, who are at their best on foot, rifle in hand. 

Mana Pools – Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game and African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too. Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis due to the relatively high cost of flying there. However we do offer some trips which include flying at no or reduced cost. There is a minimum stay requirement. Mana Pools has a well-deserved reputation for being an ideal park for foot safaris.  

Lake Kariba – and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake. A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba is a superb addition to almost any Zimbabwe trip. Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible. I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake where elephants and other animals can often be seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.  

The Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe. This region of Zimbabwe is another one where rhinos can be observed in the wild. Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of SE Utah. It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes. This area is spectacular, particularly at sunset. It is easy to move on to Hwange National Park from the Matobos by road.

For Zambia, I can think of no better trip than a 10-night Zambia exploration with Classic Zambia, priced at about $6,500 per person sharing in May and June, increasing to just over $8,000 per person sharing for the high season months from July through October. This would be a fantastic safari combining two of Africa’s finest and wildest wildlife areas, Kafue and the Lower Zambezi. Please call or email for detailed information about these and other safari options.  

Zambia is a massive country and it should come as no surprise that it has several excellent safari areas, notably the South Luangwa National Park, the Lower Zambezi National Park and the Kafue region. None of these are heavily visited and the Kafue – which is much bigger than South Africa’s vast Kruger National park – attracts about one tenth of the number of visitors of the Kruger. 

The South Luangwa National Park is known for its walking safaris and the chance to see a wide variety of animals such as elephants, lions and leopards. On a recent trip there we witnessed a crocodile trying to rob a hyena of its prey. It was a spellbinding scene observed by just us. No other vehicle showed up over the entire 30 minutes or so we spent at the sighting.  

The Lower Zambezi National Park is another popular destination, offering river safaris on the Zambezi and the opportunity to see hippos, crocodiles and abundant birdlife. For the adventurous traveler, I would recommend a canoe safari in one of the backwaters off the main river. It can be an adrenaline-inducing experience gliding by several hippos, your natural apprehension being somewhat assuaged by the fact that you have an experienced guide in control of the canoe.  

The Kafue National Park is the largest park in Zambia and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including elephants, lions and cheetahs. Several small, remote camps in the Kafue are ideal for a ‘back to basics’ experience where what matters most is what happens outside the tent. It is all about the wilderness experience, about observing the wildlife in their most natural setting, and being able to do it essentially with just your guide and the few other people in the vehicle with you.  

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