Area

A Visit to South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

28th July 2020

A Visit to South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

On what was my second trip to South Africa’s eastern Cape Province in two years, I learnt more about the area and what makes it special. There are several good reasons to consider the Eastern Cape for a safari trip:

It has lots of animals and birds and more diversity than anywhere else in South Africa. Readily seen animals include elephants, buffaloes, rhinos, lions, giraffes, zebras, kudus, impala and even cheetah, springbok, eland and gemsbok in some reserves like Shamwari.
The eastern Cape is one of the best places in South Africa to see both black and white rhinos.
The scenery is spectacular, with sometimes amazing views of hills, valleys and ravines. The vegetation ranges from Karoo scrubland to dense montane forest, Cape fynbos, dense thickets, and areas of open savannah and grasslands.
The entire area is malaria-free which makes it ideal for families with children, pregnant women and for anybody who does not want to take antimalarial drugs.
The eastern Cape reserves are easy to get to, just over an hour from either Johannesburg or Cape Town, by air. Also within drivable distance from Cape Town, along the Garden Route.
Compared with destinations like Botswana and the private reserves along the Kruger National Park, the Eastern Cape reserves offer considerably better value for money, particularly in the cooler winter months from May through August and September.
The area is quite unlike anything you’d see in Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia or the ‘bushveld’ region of South Africa, notably the Kruger Park. It is mostly undulating, often with patches of thick bush which provide cover for animals such as leopard and black rhino.

RIVERBEND LODGE

My first stop on the Eastern Cape educational trip was Riverbend Lodge which we had used several times in the past – always with good results – for the Addo Elephant Park area. Riverbend Lodge is just outside the main Addo National Park, but the lodge has direct access – a few kilometers away – to its own private area of the park. The accommodation, dining (fantastic!) and general hospitality and guiding at Riverbend were impeccable. With its special focus on the needs of families with young children, Riverbend is an ideal family safari spot. Be sure to spend no less than three nights here as some of the mammals like the rhinos can be tricky to see, because of the thick vegetation. In fact this is true of most of the eastern Cape reserves. If you spend as many as 4 nights in a camp you will see ‘everything’ and have a fun and relaxing time in the process.

The water hole close to the lodge can be surprisingly good and while I did not happen to see any rhino there during my stay, it does happen. More often than not, there are elephants coming around to drink, and we also saw some zebras and warthogs take their turn.

KARIEGA

Kariega’s Settlers Lodge was all-round one of the best lodges I had seen in a long time, with beautifully designed, huge rooms and an unusually impactful main lodge building with glass, stone and canvas beautifully melded.

An added bonus here is the option of doing some boat trips along the Sunday’s River, a nice change of pace with time to relax and take in the natural beauty of the area. Kariega’s Homestead Lodge would be perfect for a family or friends group of up to 12 or so, with 2 vehicles and guides and a staff catering to the needs of young and old.

River Lodge is yet another good option at Kariega with the same mix of activities as at Settlers. It has a bit more of a ‘traditional safari’ or classic African safari lodge feel. A nice value add here is that guests who spend 3 nights or more at Kariega River Lodge have the option to take an included boat trip (open aluminum skiff with sun canopy) of about 40 minutes or so, to the Sunday’s River mouth on the Indian Ocean.

The guiding at Kariega Settlers was great and importantly, they do not take more than 6 or 7 persons in a vehicle, meaning nobody ends up in a middle seat.

Overall I thought that the game-viewing at Kariega was very good; highlights were the abundance of giraffes, wide variety of antelopes, plenty of zebra, a good lion sighting and some great views of elephants.

As elsewhere in the Eastern Cape, it would be advisable to spend no less than 3 or 4 nights in the area. There is a lot of thick bush and to have a decent shot at seeing rarities like black rhinos, it is imperative to give yourself enough time and to do several game drives. So stay 4 nights and include the beach excursion to the mouth of the Sundays River.

SHAMWARI

My last two nights in the Eastern Cape were spent at Shamwari, a private game reserve which recently celebrated its 25th year as a pioneer of wildlife management and eco-tourism in the Greater Addo area.

Shamwari’s current range of properties include Bayethe Tented Camp, Sarili Private Lodge (ideal for family travel), Lobengula Lodge and its flagship classic lodge – Long Lee Manor, extensively rebuilt in 2019. Two other properties – Riverdene and Eagle’s Crag – have also recently been rebuilt/renovated.

Clearly Shamwari is making a very substantial investment in its future, re-asserting its position as the pre-eminent photo safari property in the Eastern Cape.

Here’s what surprised me about Shamwari: the abundance of wildlife (easily seen), the simply amazing natural beauty of the area and its diversity.

I was fortunate to have Morne Hamlyn as my guide in Shamwari, operating out of the compact classic Lobengula Lodge. More about the guiding later. It was a welcome change of pace to be in a room just steps away from a pool, and not much further away from the dining room. No long hikes to dinner, no armed escorts, just wait for the sounds of drums and off you go…

Breakfast at Lobengula was excellent; I tried a local take on Eggs Benedict one morning and it absolutely hit the spot; an omelette the second day was equally good. Dinner results were mixed. The meat for the charcoal grill (braai) on my first night there was presented in advance on a platter – you pick your portion and cut – and it was then prepared to order. I selected a couple of lamb chops and asked for them to be done medium-rare. I got them back well done and tough. The side dishes were great, as was the dessert. In fact the dessert (malva pudding) was excellent.

The following night I decided to take a small gamble and ordered lamb again – this time a rack of lamb. It paid off handsomely. The chops were tender and succulent with that typical South African Dorper sheep taste: a nice herbaceous undertone but quite subtle, and not at all mutton-like. Dessert was again splendid.

The ‘lamb chop experience’ at Lobengula underscored my experience of many years on safari. Almost never have I found the meat prepared on a ‘bush dinner’ or outside grill/barbecue – a ‘braai’ as the South African refers to it – to be anywhere close as good as similar cuts prepared in a proper kitchen setting. Just too many unknowns and variables with grilling outside, particularly when the chefs are cooking for a whole camp-full of people. Visibility is bad in the dark, the charcoal temperature is difficult to regulate, it is hard to get the timing right, and so on. Boerewors sausage and chicken (other than breast portions) are generally the best choices for bush dinners.

Throughout my stay at Lobengula I could not have received better service or friendlier attention than I did. Irreproachable in every respect.

Back to guiding: Morne had guided me some years previously in the Timbavati at Kings Camp, where he worked as the head guide at the time. Right now, Morne is at the apex of his guiding career and any visitor to Shamwari should thank their lucky stars to be in his vehicle.

Morne has all the attributes of a good guide: personable, highly knowledgeable, friendly and enthusiastic, and he wants you to have fun and experience everything the area has to offer. He will also make every attempt to find a ‘special’ animal or bird for you. In my case it was black rhino, the only large mammal I had not seen previously on this Southern Africa trip. Given the bushy habitat preferred by these rare animals, I knew it was a tall order but I need not have been concerned. We found a striking black rhino female with a young calf, probably not even 40 minutes into our afternoon drive at Shamwari. Initially motionless behind a bush with just the tip of her long horn giving away her location, she was in no hurry to relocate despite our proximity. She then walked slowly to the next thicket, calf in tow, turned sideways to give us a look and then she disappeared. Just like any animal can, in the eastern Cape thickets.

Over the course of two days at Shamwari I must have seen as many as 15 different species ranging from elephants (lots!) to Cape buffalo, lions, the aforementioned black and several groups of white rhinos, multiple giraffes, impala, kudu, Burchell’s Zebra, black wildebeest, springbok, waterbuck, gemsbok, warthog and hippo.

Morne and I also checked out a few other properties at Shamwari including the beautiful Long Lee Manor (where we had lunch) Sarili (where we saw lions from the deck), and Bayethe Tented Camp which I think would be ideal for many north American visitors, with well-equipped and spacious tented rooms.

In closing, a few words about fences. Shamwari and in fact all of the Eastern Cape reserves operate in a mixed-use setting, where fences are an unavoidable reality and necessity. Shamwari is huge and the presence of a fence was never an issue or hindrance on my particular visit. At worst it is a reminder that wildlife thrive in areas which are rich in resources such as water and palatable vegetation. Which means land that can usually be occupied by people as well. So when you do see a fence in the eastern Cape, think survival and co-habitation – without a few strategically placed fences it would be near impossible to safely contain and conserve wildlife species in this area.

Up next: a return trip to Namibia including our first visit to Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

23rd July 2020

Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

The Timbavati Game Reserve, a massive privately operated game sanctuary adjacent to the west of the central portion of Kruger Park, is sometimes overshadowed by its better known neighbor to the south, the Sabi Sand Reserve.

In reality, there’s not much to choose between the two reserves, in terms of the overall safari experience. In short, they are both excellent. In some ways the Timbavati in fact outshines its more popular rival to the south. It is more remote, the vehicle density is less, and the prices are on average a good bit less than the Sabi Sand, making Timbavati the best value option of the private reserves. The guiding is good to excellent in both reserves. Guiding proficiency is usually more closely associated with a specific lodge than with a reserve.

All in all, the Timbavati is about as ‘bushveld’ as it gets, with a typical mix of acacia thickets, patches of riverine bush, open savannah and large swathes of mature woodland. Its average altitude above sea level is barely 500 meters, which makes for balmy, dry winter months from about May through August and September, which is also the ideal time to visit. Like the Sabi Sands, the Timbavati is also completely open to the Kruger Park on its eastern boundary, allowing for free and unfettered movement of animals from the national park.

KAMBAKU RIVER SANDS

On a return visit to the Timbavati last May, I spent several days at four different camps, and re-discovered the appeal of this attractive slice of African wilderness. My first stop was Kambaku River Sands. Kambaku River Sands is a well-managed property in a game-rich area of the Timbavati. Right from the word go I sensed that they had their act together and everything I experienced over the course of my short stay validated the first impression. Starting with the 10 luxury suites. They are huge and super comfortable, with a large mosquito net enclosed bed, air-conditioning, a sitting area with chairs and a table, ample lighting, tea and coffee making facilities and a spacious separate bathroom with indoor and outdoor shower and good-sized ball and claw bath.

The food offerings were excellent throughout, from lunch on arrival, dinner and brunch the next morning. Nicely prepared and imaginatively presented, and extremely tasty. Clearly a lot of thought goes into menu planning and food & beverage service. I did not have much time to spend at the expansive and beautifully wood-crafted bar, but it looked most inviting. As a unit the lounge and dining room complex is attractive and functional with lots of space and spots where couples and small groups can get together before or after meals, or around the outdoor pool. Elephants come to drink from the pool from time to time, and there is a separate waterhole within sight of the deck as well.

In just two game drives out of Kambaku I saw a ton of stuff, including a fantastic sighting of a young female leopard in a tree. We also saw some lions at night, there were lots of elephants, and all the usual plains game species including zebra, impala, wildebeest, giraffe and kudu. The bush was still quite thick (early May) so clearly game-viewing will be even better as the dry season advances.

The following morning’s game drives out of Kambaku produced an elephant sighting which was just as spectacular as the ‘leopard in a tree’ of the previous day. Being early May, there was not a great abundance of animals. The area is densely wooded and after the rains game viewing can be challenging. However when you do come up on something good, there are few, if any other vehicles around.

A spectacular elephant sighting on this drive had just two vehicles witnessing it. Which is almost too bad because it was a ‘once in 20 years’ type of sighting: an amazing spectacle with about 20 young elephant bulls testing their strength in a quasi-serious jousting contest, half-submerged in a lake. Right in front of us. In near perfect light. If you visit Africa maybe one time only and experienced only this, you’d understand why a photo safari is such a satisfying experience on so many levels.

There’s the sheer visual appeal of it, naturally. A hankering to see big mammals alive and kicking in their natural habitat is just skin-deep in most people, I suspect.

There’s the sense of discovery and of seeing new things, all while completely escaping the daily grind of our overscheduled, overly busy lives.

There is an underlying sense of apprehension and a tinge of danger, in the proximity of particularly the big cats but also elephants. Return visitors will recall that very first time their guide drove them right up to a pride of lions. You know it is safe and you are told that the big cats don’t pay attention to people sitting still in the vehicle. But what if…

The sense of anticipation and the surprise element. Don’t we all thrive on being pleasantly surprised? On safari it happens often and sometimes when you least expect it. Just like the following day’s events would reinforce, a game drive isn’t over until it is over. Anything can happen and often does, sometimes in the last few minutes of a drive.

Of course, you also get to stay in some wonderful places, hosted by people whose only mission is to keep you happy and content.

KINGS CAMP

Returning to Kings Camp after an absence of several years, it was reassuring not to have to work too hard to remember the first time. Other than a few small changes (a new spa area, new decking, more outdoor spaces) it had remained essentially the same. A timeless classic where all your African safari expectations are met and exceeded. The near palatial rooms with mosquito net enclosed king bed, an inviting clawfoot bathtub, inside and outside shower and plunge pool (in the honeymoon suites), will wow just about anybody.

Both meals I enjoyed at Kings Camp were exemplary: a delicious breakfast on my day of departure and a multi-course boma dinner the night before. The array of menu items was quite impressive and enticing, ranging from lots of fresh veggies to a deconstructed mixed salad, pork belly, roast chicken, braised oxtail stew, and a stir fry station. With several other side dishes and finished off with a lovely malva pudding for dessert.

The two game drives from Kings Camp with my guide Remember were fun and memorable. Remember is a caring, careful and highly experienced guide who knows the area intimately and takes his time to impart some interesting facts and observations about the various animals, birds, plants, and trees seen.

The afternoon game drive started out being quite slow but that changed – right towards the end of the drive – with another ‘leopard in a tree’ encounter. Add to the mix some scavenging hyenas as well as an interloper young male leopard, and things become fascinating in a flash.

We watched spellbound as the younger male got wind of the smell of a carcass in the tree, from which he eventually displaced the older and much heavier male. In the gathering darkness I managed to capture a few arresting images of the older male exiting the tree, his demeanour and body language reflecting caution and maybe even apprehension. He was in no mood for a fight in which he stood to lose everything.

The next morning we enjoyed a similarly entertaining and meaningful episode, watching a coalition of two male lions re-connecting early that morning. Greeting each other like brothers with big grins and some head rubbing, they settled down for a siesta while we went off on a successful search for a female leopard. Great stuff!

NGALA TENTED CAMP

By midday in early May, I was enjoying an impeccable lunch at Ngala Tented Camp, a deluxe property on the border of Kruger National Park. With nine elegant tented rooms – operated by the redoubtable AndBeyond company – Ngala Tented Camp is one of very few properties which we’ve booked for our clients in the past, sight unseen. It’s always turned out well and now that we’ve been there ourselves, I daresay we will be recommending this place for a lot more guests.

Ngala Tented Camp is intriguing and pleasing visually and artistically, with a blend of old and new, wood and stone, glass and canvas, creating a one-of-a-kind look and feel which is hard to pin down, but easy to like and appreciate.

The Ngala Tented Camp rooms likewise hit all the right notes. Not huge but with plenty of space, an exceedingly comfortable bed, a separate bathroom with a big tub (and lots of water with good pressure), a separate enclosed toilet and a particularly nice outdoor shower enclosed in a rock/stone wall.

The room is air conditioned, quiet and private with a range of excellent camp snacks (nuts and fudge), wine, beer and several types of spirits and mixers. There’s even a recipe for Ngala Tented Camp gin fizz.

It soon became evident that Ngala Tented Camp is located in a superb game-viewing area. Over the space of two game drives, afternoon and morning, we managed to find and observe the so-called Big Five mammals without much drama at all. Notably, three of the five we saw no more than one kilometer or so outside the camp. In many African safari camps you have to drive for 30 or 40 minutes or more, just to get to where the game is. Not so at Ngala Tented Camp. The game is right there.

Our guide Scott was enthusiastic, had a great sense of humor and managed the most difficult of guiding feats (first timers and veteran safari goers on the same drive) with the greatest of aplomb. Clearly Scott and tracker Ernest are a formidable team, providing their guests with lots of wow moments.

A nice change of pace moment was when Scott got us all out of the vehicle to walk through the bush, making a close approach to a giraffe. Which turned out to be the most relaxed giraffe ever!

TANDA TULA CAMP

My last Timbavati camp on this trip was the well-known and perennially popular and well-established Tanda Tula Camp. Located in the heart of the Timbavati along the Nlharalumi River, Tanda Tula has gained its excellent reputation by doing everything right, consistently. Good accommodation, great food, pleasing camp ambiance and superb guiding make it a great choice for first timers and safari veterans alike.

On a couple of game drives with guide Luke and master tracker Jack, I think I gained just as much from the experience as the two young couples from San Francisco for whom it was their first two game drives ever. Yes, we saw the Big Five but it ended up being much more than that, with Luke imparting some witty and well-informed bits of information and background without being pedantic or repetitive. Good, fresh information, not the hackneyed ‘Mcdonalds of the bush’ drivel. For example, I never knew just how short the ‘reign’ of a dominant male Impala was. Turns out that he has perhaps as few as eight days as the dominant male in charge of his harem of females, before he is supplanted by a challenger. Guides like Luke take delight in debunking old bush myths and pseudo facts. All the more reason to have a well qualified guide leading you. Likewise Jack, who is one of only 25 master trackers working in this field in South Africa.

Back at the lodge chef Ryan prepared a couple of the best meals I had enjoyed on the trip to date. A lunch with braised barbecued pork ribs and a delightful dinner with lamb loin chops or braised guinea fowl. The side of sweet potato croquettes and the kingklip (fish) starter were equally tasty and beautifully presented. Camp manager Antony and his staff were friendly and caring and I think all the guests enjoyed the good humor and general sense of well-being which suffused the place. It is not stuffy or serious, just good fun and a great time. Plus the WiFi works well.

JOHANNESBURG INTERLUDE

I had not spent a night in downtown Johannesburg in a very long time. Having lived in the city in a previous life, I am no stranger to it but this was a new experience. Home for the night was a small boutique hotel – the Hallmark House – chic and ultra modern, located right on the edge of Maboneng, with a mix of accommodation, galleries, retail shops, restaurants and clubs.

Wandering around the place in the late afternoon, I was very much a stranger in his own country, but it was nonetheless interesting to observe from a very different perspective. I was relieved to find an informal dinner spot, a small hole-in-the-wall with every table taken, which is always a good sign. The food was simple but exactly what I wanted, and at least for twenty minutes or so, it re-connected me with a place and time long gone. A traditional ensemble of pap (a rustic version of polenta) with a tomato and onion sauce, a side of spinach and a ‘boerewors’ sausage, South Africa’s celebrated traditional version of bratwurst, characterized by the addition of coriander in the spice mix. Tasted like home.

The following morning I had time to capture a few photographs of the Maboneng precinct, particularly some of its ubiquitous examples of street art and graffiti. The graffiti were colorful, brash and ephemeral, with many illustrations already starting to peel away and decay. One hopes that this does not happen to Maboneng itself. That the promise, the sense of renewal and rebirth visible in so much of it, is not dashed by the harsh realities of commerce and circumstances beyond the control of the locals. It remains to be seen.

If you’re keen to experience an authentic modern African city environment then definitely yes, spend a couple of nights at the Hallmark House or the nearby CityLodge on the edge of Newtown. Johannesburg has a vibrant arts and music scene – which I hope to explore on my next visit. In the way of a true big city with all of its energy, creativity and fascinating people, there are few better than Egoli, South Africa’s city of gold. What makes Johannesburg doubly interesting is the process of renewal that is taking place. Blight and decay are making place for hope and aspiration, innovation and ingenuity. Maboneng being the most visible but hardly the only example. Newtown and Braamfontein have undergone a similar process of renewal and rejuvenation and are now worthwhile stops on your exploration of Joeys.

APARTHEID MUSEUM

The young French girl – part of a tour group of some thirty or so students visiting the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg last May – probably didn’t know what to make of the older man she saw crying, just outside the museum exit. The man was leaning against a planter, his head down, tears streaming down his face, clearly emotionally devastated by what he had just seen and experienced. What was he crying about, she might have thought. If she had stopped and asked, the man would have told her that he was crying for his country of birth, for lives ruined, families destroyed, and hopes dashed. He was crying because of regret and guilt, with the realization that the failed system of apartheid was a colossal waste of the human spirit, of lives, time, resources and energy. The French girl saw sadness and pain on his face; what she didn’t see was the unresolved inner conflict, the scars left by living through the worst of the apartheid era. Even though the man was lucky not to be one of the oppressed, the double-edged sword of racism wounded him just as deeply. All South Africans were diminished by the system, they just did not all realize it at the time. Being confronted so vividly and strikingly by the harsh reality of the grave injustice done to millions of people, a lot of old, suppressed feelings and memories were brought to the surface. Until then, the man thought that he had made his peace with all of this. Clearly he was mistaken.

I have always had something else or something better and more pressing to do in Johannesburg than visiting the Apartheid Museum. Until this time. I now regret not doing it sooner. For those of us who lived through it all, it is a bitter pill to swallow. For visitors from abroad, it will be no less impactful and just as shocking to come eye to eye with man’s inhumanity to man. The Apartheid Museum is important and powerful. It is also substantial and altogether loaded with information, displays, facts, maps, movies, names, history, interpretation and memorabilia. At a minimum, it takes a solid two hours to make your way around it, and I could see someone easily spending three or maybe even four hours there, if you wanted to get into the details of all the exhibits. Don’t rush it.

In part 2 of this South Africa trip report, I make my way to the malaria-free Eastern Cape region. Coming soon.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2: LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

5th July 2020

KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 2:
LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of those places. Lewa is special on many levels. Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’. On my most recent visit last June, I felt just the same way. Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’. Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south. If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe. Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void. We cannot all have a farm in Africa like Karen Blixen once did, but we can visit one – and there’s none better than Lewa.

Other ways in which Lewa is special? It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa. Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya. Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s Zebra, Beisa Oryx and Reticulated Giraffe. Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s Zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.

The Reticulated Giraffe I consider to be the ‘oil painting’ of giraffes, compared with the somewhat washed out ‘watercolor’ version seen elsewhere – the Plains or Masai Giraffe. The Reticulated Giraffe is almost a dark orange with vividly demarcated lines between the color blocks. Never to be forgotten, once seen.

Likewise the Grevy’s Zebra. Its finely striped black and white skin pattern – without the shadow effect visible on the Burchell’s Zebra – and its white belly make it quite a handsome equine. Its looks are marred only somewhat by the ridiculously large, mule-like ears.

Beisa Oryx are amazing animals and while their status is also ‘endangered’, they are fairly common in Lewa. Strikingly beautiful with both males and females sporting long, thin ringed horns. They are quite unmistakable when seen with mostly blue-grey bodies, offset by a white underside and distinctive black stripes along the side, the neck and on the face.

Finally, Lewa is special because of its remarkable achievements over the years in the field of wildlife conservation (notably rhinos and Grevy’s Zebra), and its pioneering work in community-centric conservation. Lewa has invested heavily in both the protection of endangered species and development of its neighbouring communities to create a future where both people and wildlife can flourish.

TUSK MARATHON – LEWA WILDLIFE CONSERVANCY

Late in the morning after my overnight stay in Nairobi, I was on a flight from Wilson Airport to the beautiful and very successful Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Having been established in 1995, Lewa/Borana is arguably Kenya’s premier example of a wildlife sanctuary where wildlife conservation, community welfare, cattle farming and hosting guests from 9 tourism properties are successfully integrated and managed by a permanent staff.

For the next 3 nights my accommodation was a rustic tented camp – Maridadi – erected close to the Lewa Headquarters, for the annual running of the Tusk Half and Full Marathon.

Late on the first afternoon, we did a short 3 km ‘warm up’ run and afterwards enjoyed sundowners on a beautiful hill. A few of us went on a late afternoon game drive, which turned out to be surprisingly good. In practically no time at all, we ticked off most of the Lewa specials like Grevy’s Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Beisa Oryx and Somali Ostrich. As well as Buffalo, Eland, and Burchell’s Zebra.

On the second day we visited several projects supported by the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, through donations from charities such as the Tusk Foundation. Among others, we visited a school and the Lewa Clinic. The Lewa Education Program works to provide access to quality education that improves students’ economic opportunities, in the hope that it creates a new generation of environmental stewards. I was impressed by the degree to which electronics had been incorporated into the classroom we visited. The electronic ‘blackboard’ and the presence of so many electronic tablets would be the envy of many a school district anywhere in the world.

On the Saturday, some 1,500 runners lined up for the start of the 20th annual Tusk Lewa Marathon and Half Marathon, one of Lewa’s major fundraising events. The race is well organized and is a taxing, yet fun event. It helps to be well prepared and at least somewhat acclimated to the mile-high altitude. Add to that the heat – it was nearly 80 Fahrenheit at the start – the hills (plenty of them) and the uneven footing along rough trails, and all in all it makes for a super-tough race.

LEWA WILDERNESS

Late in the morning after the run, I was off to Lewa Wilderness on the north-eastern edge of the conservancy. Lewa Wilderness, which is owned and operated by the Craig family, is a jewel of a lodge with gorgeous rooms, a stunningly beautiful setting in a lush garden, views over the valley below, and simply first-class all-round hospitality.

My room – #7 – had an expansive view, tons of space, a double bed with mosquito netting, adequate lighting (but difficult to find the right on and off switches), a shower and separate toilet, and a mini-bar with soft drinks, beer and ice. Simply a splendid place to be on safari, as one of the English guests remarked over dinner later.

The food was excellent: I was introduced to all the other guests already in camp over a buffet lunch (curried chicken and curried vegetable dishes) with quiche, green salad, fresh bread and more. The meal was served family style.

Dinner was roast beef with veggies, a potato dish and dessert, all delicious and perfectly prepared. Most dietary needs can be accommodated.

I experienced a couple of game drives from Lewa Wilderness and much to my surprise saw a cheetah on both outings. One rather skittish young male (a newcomer to the area) and another older, much more relaxed male which was stretched out on a fallen tree stump, enjoying the morning sunlight. Another sighting of note was a few gerenuk antelope, which are more abundant in arid areas to the north, like Samburu.

BORANA LODGE

The following couple of nights I stayed at Borana Lodge, a 9-roomed property set in the stunningly beautiful foothills of Mt. Kenya, in the Borana Conservancy, adjacent to the west of Lewa. In 2014 the fence between the two conservancies came down, which opened up even more of a corridor for wildlife – notably elephant – for movement between Samburu in the north and Mt. Kenya in the south. Over the last 30 years or so, elephants have impacted Lewa Wildlife Conservancy significantly, mostly by destroying huge numbers of acacia and other trees, effectively turning large tracts of mixed woodland into savanna grassland.

Opening up adjacent areas like Borana and in future hopefully the nearby Il Nguesi area, will help to alleviate the pressure on the habitat and reverse this habitat-changing effect. Given time, trees like the yellow barked acacia and whistling thorn acacia will bounce back and forests will naturally re-emerge. But only if the saplings are not constantly being hammered by the elephants.

Already – during my visit – the number of elephants in the Borana Conservancy appear to be increasing relative to Lewa. Borana being much more heavily wooded will definitely relieve the pressure on Lewa.

The Borana Conservancy is higher, hillier and greener than Lewa. It also has even fewer cars and people around so if solitude, splendid views and montane scenery is your thing, Borana is your spot. While I did see a black rhino in Lewa (after several days there), I saw several in Borana, starting with my very first game drive there. My knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide Peter soon had a female and juvenile pair of black rhinos in sight and with some deft maneuvering, I got several good shots of them, without displacing or unnecessarily alarming them.

My experience at Borana Lodge for the two nights there was most enjoyable and fun, with a mix of game drives, sundowners in scenic spots, a fun bush dinner, and spending time over lunch and breakfast with the owner, Michael Dyer.

The lodge itself is perched on a slope of with beautiful views over blue-grey hills and verdant valleys. Out of Africa, no doubt. Plus the original ‘Pride Rock’ from the Lion King movie is just around the corner! My room – #3 – was spacious with all the amenities including a bath, shower, fireplace, and two outdoor relaxation areas.

The room interior and soft finishings are due for a major ‘freshening up’: some paint, new tiles in the bathroom, new window drapes, a new color scheme – there are quite a few things which can be done to give the room a fresh look.

It is a minor point of criticism though. The overall experience at Borana was most enjoyable with great food, friendly staff, management and expert guiding.

It appears that Borana’s cattle management and rotation scheme is quite successful at keeping the vegetation vibrant and full of life. There are practically no areas of moribund vegetation, but this may have had something to do with the abundant recent rainfall, at the time I was there.

LEWA SAFARI CAMP

The penultimate stop of my mega familiarization trip was the popular and highly rated Lewa Safari Camp, also operated by Elewana, located inside the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. We do and will continue to use Lewa Safari Camp on future Kenya itineraries for many of our clients. This visit made it clear to me why the camp works so well. A lot of it has to do with the managing couple Sacha and Tamlyn. During my all too brief overnight and one day there, Sacha devoted a lot of time to spend with me over lunch and dinner, talking about the area and what it has to offer to guests. With such enthusiasm and energy as demonstrated by Sacha, it is clear to see why Lewa Safari Camp is so popular with guests. My tented room #3 was spotlessly clean and well organized from lighting (easy on off switches), to having the best charging outlet of any camp on the trip, including no less than 4 USB charging points. Lewa Safari Camp has an attractive pool with a view over the valley, and well-marked pathways.

Exercise note: It is possible to jog inside the camp perimeter on gravel pathways, along a loop totaling about 1 kilometer in distance.

En route to my final destination, I did a site inspection at Kifaru, Elewana’s luxury 5-roomed lodge. Compact and intimate, with camp manager Andrew giving me a concise yet thorough overview of the camp. Kifaru has a great location on top of a hill, with large and well-appointed rooms, a beautiful central area and dining room. Room #5 appears to be the choice spot to be.

SIRIKOI LODGE

I had long looked forward to visiting Sirikoi, my planned 2017 visit having been derailed by Hurricane Harvey. Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for! It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management. The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality. While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.

With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion. There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi. It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.

Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of camp. In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari. I experienced just that on my last night there. One by one a family of seven Striped Kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night. Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost.

It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.

I had the most fascinating conversation with the co-owner Sue Roberts over sundowners, finding out just how the Sirikoi property came to be in their possession. Acquiring Sirikoi ended up being a pivotal piece in making Lewa Wildlife Conservancy the vibrant and successful model of co-operative conservation that it is. Land-owners, local government, and most importantly the community, all working together to achieve shared objectives.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 1: THE MASAI MARA

1st July 2020

KENYA TRIP REPORT PART 1:
THE MASAI MARA

Since I first started traveling to Kenya in the 1990’s, I have grown increasingly fond of this beautiful and incredibly diverse country and its friendly, easy-going people. With every return visit, my previous perceptions about Kenya as a safari destination have been re-validated, notably that it is an ideal destination for a first African safari. No doubt about that. Kenya has lots of animals which are easy to see, it has remarkable diversity in terms of habitats, wildlife, scenery and activities along with a well-functioning tourism infrastructure.

Culturally, Kenya is rich and diverse, it has excellent accommodation options in each area, great guiding and – like I said – friendly people who are genuinely interested in your well-being and happiness. So learn a few Swahili phrases, get your E-visa online, and get ready for a fantastic experience! Of course, if you’ve already been, you know most of this. But do keep on reading as there’s lots of information here about some places you might not have been to yet, like the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, or the Olare Motorogi Conservancy in the Masai Mara.

On my most recent trip, last June, I arrived at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport on South African Airways after an on-time, uneventful flight. Getting a visa was a cinch – it literally took less than 10 minutes. Then a gremlin appeared in the way of a long and disorganized, scrum-like line to get one’s luggage scanned in an industrial-sized luggage scanner. Of which there really should be more than one, clearly. To compound matters, traffic congestion caused a lengthy delay getting out of the airport and on to the road to downtown.

Even so, I remained in a good mood, just happy to be back in Kenya. Here’s a tip for African travel in general and specific to Nairobi and Kenya: be prepared for a little bit of chaos mixed in with smiles from people who are genuinely pleased that you have decided to make your way there.

NAIROBI SERENA HOTEL

The security check on arrival at the Nairobi Serena Hotel was thorough, but not brusque. I never felt rushed or intimidated. A little bit of courtesy goes a long way. Reception at the hotel was smooth and professional, as was my in-room briefing. The room was luxuriously appointed, with the usual amenities including tea and coffee-making facilities, multi-channel TV, air conditioning, and thoughtfully designed charging facilities with a phone-ready cable for your iphone, and enough USB and universal plugs capable of accepting a US type plug without an adaptor.

I tried both the Asian fusion and traditional restaurants at the hotel for dinner and breakfast respectively, and they were both good. Serena has a well-deserved reputation for their breakfast spread and the Nairobi Serena Hotel was no exception.

LOLDIA HOUSE, LAKE NAIVASHA

From this point on and for the duration of my trip to the Masai Mara, I was accompanied by Zachary Methu, an affable, extremely capable and hugely knowledgeable Origins Safaris guide. What a difference a good guide makes! It took about 3 hours by road to get to Lake Naivasha, where I would spend a couple of nights at Loldia House. I had been looking forward to a return visit to this lovely old home which was built by Italian prisoners-of-war during WWII. Just like the last time, I spent a peaceful night in Room #1. Being inside the main house, it is convenient, large, and has beautiful views over the garden and the lake. The bathroom has been upgraded.

I enjoyed some bird photography and a delicious lunch, and went for a 5K run later in the afternoon in the cultivated (farm) portion of the estate. That evening, we enjoyed a delightful dinner – table d’hote style – with 8 other guests and the manager. The 3-course, plated meal was expertly prepared and served. Breakfast the next morning was equally good, particularly the pancakes.

Loldia is the perfect place to spend one’s first couple of nights in Kenya, prior to going on safari. It’s a great introduction to Kenya’s wildlife with a good variety of game to be seen including buffalo, hippo, impala, gazelles and giraffe. On night drives hyenas, owls, and bush pigs may be seen.

Included activities at Loldia are an afternoon game drive with sundowner drinks, a boat cruise on Lake Naivasha early in the morning and a night game drive after dinner. Beyond those, Loldia offers a host of optional activities (at additional cost), such as guided trips to Lake Nakuru, Crescent Island, Hell’s Gate, Crater Lake, Lake Ol Odien, Eburru Forest, Aberdare National Park, Lake Elementaita, and Lake Bogoria. There’s also golf available at the nearby Great Rift Valley Lodge, horse-riding and a tour of the nearby rose farm.

Room 1 at Loldia is in the main house; rooms 2, 3 and 4 (all upgraded) are in the garden. Room 6 and 7 (thatched roofs) are also in the garden. Room 8 and 9 are in the Top Cottage and room 10 is in the Top Cottage loft and has a separate/outside bathroom.

MARA BUSHTOPS, MASAI MARA

Fom Naivasha it was a solid 5 hour 30 minutes drive to Mara Bushtops, situated in a game-rich conservancy just to the north of the Masai Mara National Park. The impressive tented rooms are solidly in the deluxe category with beautiful wrap around views over the surrounding bush. There was an indoor and outdoor shower, Wi-Fi and an outdoor jacuzzi which can be filled in advance. The room has a buzzer to summon your personal butler. The room lighting wasn’t quite up to my ‘bright, clear, and easy to operate’ expectations.

A two-hour afternoon game drive on the Isaaten Conservancy illustrated once again why Kenya is such a good choice for a first – or any – safari. Without too much driving at all we notched up good views of elephants (lots of them!), giraffes all over the place, many zebras, scattered groups of wildebeest, impala, Thompson’s gazelle, topi, eland, Kirk’s dik-dik, vervet monkeys, warthogs and bat-eared foxes. Guests who spend three nights or more at Mara Bushtops will usually spend a half or full day inside the Masai Mara National Park; the lodge is only about 30 minutes from the Sekenani gate. Dinner was first class in every way in what was essentially a full-blown restaurant with multiple starters, main courses and dessert options. No set hours: you dine when you want to.

Exercise note: Mara Bushtops caters for health enthusiasts more than most other camps. They have a large pool with adjacent heated jacuzzi, a sauna, a small gym with weights and a treadmill. The Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops has a wide range of beauty treatments and massage and rejuvenation treatment options, several of which cater for couples.

ASILIA NABOISHO CAMP, NABOISHO CONSERVANCY

It was a relatively short drive today to the Naboisho Conservancy where I spent the night at Asilia’s Naboisho camp. Naboisho is a well organized camp with friendly and attentive management and staff, superior guiding by Dickson Kaleku, and abundant wildlife. I also did a site inspection at nearby Mara Encounter and liked what I saw, particularly the adventurous walk through a small, dense forest on the way into camp. I can recommend both of these camps and the Naboisho area without any reservation. The game viewing was as good as I’ve experienced anywhere – ever – with huge numbers of wildebeest around. It felt like the migration season, even though we knew it was not. We saw many lions and enjoyed an exceptionally good cheetah sighting with three sub-adult cubs. Plus elephants, eland, topi, gazelles, impala, zebra, giraffe and more.

Exercise note: Not an ideal spot for exercise, but you can go on an extended walk of a few hours duration with an armed professional guide.

MARA PLAINS CAMP, OLARE MOTOROGI CONSERVANCY

The next day, it was on to Mara Plains Camp in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. This conservancy is a model of how local landowners and conservation-minded safari operators can work together for a greater goal, being the preservation of Kenya’s wildlife heritage for generations to come. In this huge area – which otherwise would have been dotted with homesteads and overrun with cattle, sheep and goats – wildlife is thriving and the local communities benefit with employment and cash income. Mara Plains Camp is a Relais & Chateaux property and it shows on many levels from the impeccable quality of the food and beverage offerings to the attentive and competent management and staff. I was wowed from beginning to end. The massive rooms are dramatically set on the edge of a seasonal creek.

For the few days that you may spend at Mara Plains you will be in a cocoon of unadulterated luxury. While guests no doubt appreciate the luxury touches and the property’s high level of sophistication, the lasting impression is of a team of people with a clearly defined mission to be a force for good in both conservation and community. The wildlife experience at Mara Plains on this trip was just as good as it was on a previous visit to the area, a few years ago. At that time I recall seeing as many as seven different mammal species all at the same time.

It would not be unreasonable to expect to see three big cat species – leopard, lion and cheetah – on a 3 night stay at Mara Plains; in fact we saw all three on one game drive, on this trip! Most memorably, I photographed a cheetah crossing a small road within the conservancy, while a local resident on a motorbike (here known as a boda-boda) paused for a few minutes, to give the cheetah the space to do so without pressure. Only in Kenya! We also saw various prides of lions, some with cubs of varying ages, and a host of other mammals and birds. My Mara Plains hosts Rich and Lorna – as well as Kyra – went out of their way to make me feel at home.

Exercise note: Clearly not a good place to go jogging, but each room has a yoga mat and a jump rope.

ASILIA REKERO CAMP, MASAI MARA

My next stop was Rekero – another Asilia property – located in an ideal spot on the Talek River with a great view down-river, inside the Masai Mara National Park. The huge deck is a perfect place to discover the coming and going of numerous birds including the rather stunning blue fly catcher which I tried to photograph with some success. Rekero is so well hidden in the thick riverine forest along the Talek River that it remains completely hidden until you walk into camp, from the parking area. There are nine tented rooms, two of which are family rooms; the tents are quite spacious with a separate en suite bathroom with plenty of hot water, a separate vestibuli with a day-bed and adequate lighting. I slept soundly by the sound of water rushing over the rocks in the Talek River. The food at Rekero was excellent and we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with a mix of South Africans, Texans and Kenyans and a couple from San Francisco.

We enjoyed yet another superb day of game-viewing in the Masai Mara spotting a leopard with an impala kill in a tree, four different groups of lions, two prides with cubs (from literally 1.5 weeks to several months old) some handsome full-maned male lions, powerful females, sub adults and more.

INTREPIDS CAMP, MASAI MARA

Intrepids camp, my accommodation for the following day, is quite large with 32 tents but with the rooms strategically spread out along the edge of the Talek River in thick vegetation, the camp does not have a ‘crowded’ feel.

The rooms are quite smart and nicely equipped with decent lighting, mosquito nets, a separate shower and toilet with door, a deluxe wash basin and ample mirrors. There is Wi-Fi everywhere in the camp. Each room has a small desk and ample storage and clothes hanging space. The bathroom area and particularly the shower of my room number 14 was starting to look a bit tired and is definitely in need of refurbishment.

Hot water – provided by wood burning boilers – is available from 5 to 9 a.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Lunch was served buffet-style with multiple choices and options including a wide variety of vegetarian items. For dinner meals are plated with a substantial number of options for starters, main course and even for dessert.

What makes Intrepids a good choice though is the location. It is ideally located in the heart of the Masai Mara right where the action is during the migration season. From here your guide can take you towards the Musiara area if needs be, or to the main or Serena crossing over the Mara River, or even further afield to the southern section of the Mara in search of whatever is out there, including of course potential wildebeest crossings.

Exercise note: Mara Intrepids has an extensive trail/walkway winding through the camp and past the vehicle maintenance area, so this is a property where you can plan on getting a few miles under the belt.

MARA EXPLORER CAMP, MASAI MARA

The next day my journey would take me on to Mara Explorer camp, Intrepids’ smaller and more luxurious sister tented camp. Mara Explorer has just 10 quite elegant tented rooms, most with good views over the Talek River which was flowing quite strongly on the day. The rooms are spacious with a separate indoor shower (shower head needed replacement), a toilet with a door and an outside bath with a view. Hot water available from 5 – 9 a.m. and from 5 – 9 p.m.

The rooms are on the edge of the Talek River and some of them, like mine (#4), are very close to a sizable number of hippos hanging out in a hippo pool in a bend of the river. So if you really like hippos and don’t mind them waking you up at around 5 a.m. when they go back in the water then this is just the room for you. Our game drive today produced a sighting of an acclaimed coalition of four cheetahs, as well as some good views of lions and buffaloes. The day was rounded off nicely with a surprise bush dinner.

MARA NGENCHE CAMP, MASAI MARA

It was a shortish drive this day to Mara Ngenche, sister camp to Samburu’s Elephant Bedroom camp. The property is located in a prime spot at the confluence of the Talek and Mara Rivers with the rooms having views over either of the river beds. My room was large with a comfortable king bed, decent lighting, indoor shower and bath and outside shower. It also had a private plunge pool, lounge chairs and hammock. The staff was friendly and attentive and obliged with a special local meal with items such as ugali and sukuma wiki.

The dining room, lounge and bar tents were likewise quite well done; food was superb and varied with several choices of starters, mains and desserts. Game drives in the area were productive and we had a good morning with several sightings of leopards, among others.

ELEPHANT PEPPER CAMP, MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY

It was a slightly longer drive today, leaving the Masai Mara National Park at Musiara gate into Mara North Conservancy. I was initially somewhat put off by the presence of a large village not far from the gate, with several herds of cattle around. However, by the time we got to our next stop, Elephant Pepper Camp, everything had changed. It turned out to be a lovely and clearly well-run camp with energetic and friendly management, who made me feel welcome right away. I liked everything I saw about Elephant Pepper from the camp layout, the nice rooms with good lighting, to the fun meal-times. We arrived in the middle of a leopard sighting and that pretty much set the tone for the remainder of my stay. It turned out that the game viewing at Elephant Pepper – particularly for the big cats – was terrific. Zachary and I had some of the best views of the entire trip of cheetahs and lions on what was to be our last proper game drive in the Mara. A short spell of rain did nothing to dampen our spirits – in fact it set up an opportunity to get a photo of a wet lion shaking its mane.

KAREN BLIXEN COTTAGES – NAIROBI

It took just over 5 hours to drive back from Elephant Pepper to the suburb of Karen on the west side of Nairobi. We encountered heavy traffic in spots with lots of 16-wheeler trucks, the road being the main artery from the port of Mombasa to the East African interior. I was happy to have someone as experienced and patient as Zachary behind the steering wheel. This evening, I spent the night at Karen Blixen Coffee Garden & Cottages. Located in one of the oldest formal gardens in Kenya (with lots of great birds around), the hotel is convenient to the Karen Blixen Museum, Wilson Airport, Sheldrick elephant orphanage and Nairobi National Park. In contrast to the historic main building, the individual cottage suites are quite modern and spacious with high-beam ceilings, fireplaces, verandahs, a bath, shower, and TV. I enjoyed lunch and dinner at the adjacent Tamarind restaurant and could not fault the excellent ostrich burger and grilled tuna fillet, or the swift and friendly service. I took a cab to the nearby Karen Mall for some shopping at the Kikoy store and the well-stocked aisles of Carrefour grocery store (candy stop!). The next morning I would be on my way to Lewa in the northern part of Kenya.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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25th June 2020

A Visit to Benguerra Island, Mozambique

In June last year, we made our first visit to Mozambique, spending three perfect days at Azura Benguerra, a secluded, beautiful spot with stunning views over the clean, blue water of the Mozambique Channel. Together with two other couples – both on their honeymoon – we arrived in a glass-bottom helicopter, after a short flight from the mainland. Even though we were airborne for a mere 8 minutes, the visual impact will stay with us forever. It’s like having all your imagined visions of an Indian Island resort come to life, right in front of your eyes. A tiny, heavily forested island ringed by a seemingly endless, brilliantly white beach.

Around it, a huge expanse of blue and turquoise water, with sandbanks and reefs creating a shimmering underwater mosaic. We would soon find out that our first impressions of Benguerra were right. It is a barefoot paradise. Miles of soft, white sand, a ‘get away from it all’ setting and ambiance and with the added bonus of being eco-friendly and part of a community based project where the local islanders benefit as much as the visitors.

At Azura Benguerra, just 20 villas are nestled along a picture-perfect stretch of beach, with all the creature comforts you could wish for including private pools, a Mozambican butler-host to look after your every need, fish and seafood fresh from the ocean, a great range of activities and experiences, and an African spa to relax in. What is more, Benguerra Island is blessed with hot and sunny weather year round. Temperatures are generally in the low to upper 80’s Fahrenheit, and rarely fall below 68 degrees even at night. The water temperature is gloriously warm, and ranges from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

All of the villas are just footsteps from the beach, yet designed with seclusion in mind. Tucked into an indigenous and surprisingly ‘birdy’ garden, the villas are a haven of rest and relaxation, where you are truly in tune with the environment. We were in villa # 15. We found the bedroom to be quite spacious; we loved the view from the large king size bed right to the sea, the abundant birdlife, and we made ample use of both the indoor and outdoor shower as well as the bathtub. If you really need it, there is a desk with plenty of workspace. We didn’t see any mosquitoes. The days were one long highlight, with a little bump at 5 pm which was complimentary cocktail hour, with your private butler coming around with the drink of the day.

EXPLORING THE ISLAND

Activities (some of which we did not have time for) include scuba diving, snorkelling, island-hopping by boat, an interesting island drive (safari-style) and a sundowner dhow cruise.

Azura’s signature activity is a short hop to Bazaruto Island to hike up Bazaruto Dune for panoramic views of the Archipelago. From there, guests often head to Two Mile Reef where there are hundreds of species of tropical fish, coral, rays, as well as the possibility of seeing turtles, dolphins and even humpback whales during their annual migration. After snorkelling, guests are taken to North Point for a picnic, and to cool off in the clear water.

On the Red Dune & Crocodile Lakes Drive, guests jump into a game viewer vehicle for an island adventure. On this outing we drove by a couple of villages while our driver-guide filled us in on Azura’s close relationship with the local island communities. We were amazed at the abundance of diminutive Red Duiker antelope which we kept seeing. In addition to some great birds, we also saw a couple of the large Nile crocodiles which live in several fresh-water lakes on the island. Eventually, we got to the island’s ‘wild side’ where you walk along the beach and hike up Red Dune, an easy climb, for amazing views of Benguerra Island.

Dining & Hospitality

The food at Azura was quite good with two choices (starters and mains) in addition to dessert. We personally would have liked to have seen more freshly grilled seafood, but can’t fault the tasty array of dishes including a seafood paella, pork stir-fry, curried prawns, breaded and sauteed calamari, and pasta with lobster.

Desserts were consistently good including a chocolate ganache, chocolate souffle and coffee panna cotta with local ice-cream and crepes with fresh fruit.

At Azura, dining is very much part of the experience and I can’t recall eating in the same spot twice. We had breakfast at the water’s edge, we dined by candle light beneath the stars and enjoyed another cozy meal at the main restaurant. It was clear that our hosts take huge pride in their innovative dining set-ups, and adding little touches to make one’s stay special.

Breakfasts were huge with a full array of eggs to order, a daily special (such as breakfast tacos with eggs, chorizo and cheese), guacamole and salsa. Also omelettes, eggs benedicts, various sausages, bacon, fresh fruit, pastries, juices and more. There was a choice of more than one healthy drink such as a special juice or smoothie, every morning.

What really made the Azura experience as enjoyable as it was, was the extraordinary degree of personal attention we received from our personal hospitality assistant Manuel. He was there all the time to assist with every request we had or might have had. Manuel was our waiter at every meal, helped us with arranging activities and really made our stay special. Never intrusive but always there and keen to assist with a Portuguese word when we needed one. Muito Obrigado!

A training run around the island

In a somewhat rash moment, I decided to run around the entire Benguerra Island, which turned out to be almost 30 kilometers or just over 18 miles if you more or less stick to the shoreline. I wouldn’t advise this for any but the most intrepid travelers. It turned out to be a fascinating experience, even if it ended up being much more challenging than anticipated. The distance was nearly three times what I had in mind and there were long stretches which ended up being a slow slog through deep loose sand and puddles of sea water. Even so, to see and experience the island in this way was fascinating. The changing landscapes, the dunes, beaches, forests with birds calling and the open marshy areas laid bare by the receding tide. In contrast with the rather calm and tranquil beachfront conditions in front of the lodge, the southern and eastern beaches have waves crashing directly off the Indian Ocean, and portions of the beach are littered with massive driftwood tree trunks, likely dumped there by a hurricane.

At one stage I ran out of water which – as runners know all too well – poses the threat of dehydration. Fortunately a passing boat made its way to the shore and the skipper was happy to share some of his drinking water with me. It was with a sense of relief that I finished up the last mile or two in familiar terrain, along the west side of the island.

How to get there:

From Johannesburg’s Oliver Tambo International Airport, there are regular non-stop flights of about 1 hr 15 minutes to Vilanculos in Mozambique. After a somewhat slow visa procedure (US$50 per visa), you board an 8-minute helicopter flight (we were 6 persons plus the pilot) to Azura Resort on Benguerra Island. Kathy and I also did a site inspection to AndBeyond Benguerra Lodge; we were favourably impressed with the location and the rooms. The garden area in front of the main lodge was particularly lush, with lots of trees.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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A Visit to Namibia

I experienced a serious case of deja vu late May last year, when we were driven from Onguma Lodge in the eastern part of Namibia’s Etosha National Park, all the way to Ongava Game Reserve in the west. It was my fifth time doing this drive and the experience was very much the same as before. A long day behind the wheel – except that I wasn’t driving this time. It was dusty. Sometimes extremely dusty to the point where a passing vehicle could disappear into a powdery cocoon of desert dust. The drive was also a bit tedious at times but always there was the unspoken possibility of coming across something interesting, along the way.

And so it was: in addition to regular sightings of plains animals such as springbok and gemsbok, we had a good sighting of a male lion at Klein Namutoni water hole, and a simply extraordinary experience when we observed a leopard stalking and killing a jackal, at the Rietfontein water hole. This was a ‘once in a lifetime’ experience witnessing the entire hunt sequence from first observation to stalking, to the final ambush and then the take-down. Just a bit out of range of my lens, but we had great views in the binoculars. Which prompts a reminder: don’t let anyone tell you that nothing ever happens game-wise during the ‘dead’ hours of the day between the morning and afternoon game drives. This proves the point – the leopard kill occurred around 2 pm in the afternoon.

We stopped for lunch at the Halali Rest Camp, and it was like stepping back into the past. Halali hasn’t changed a bit: even the lunch menu appears to be the same as in the 1990’s with a choice of toasted sandwiches, hamburgers (don’t be tempted), hot dogs, a steak platter or a lunch buffet.

ONGAVA LODGE

Revisiting Ongava Lodge was like reconnecting with an old friend of many years whom you may only see sporadically, but the friendship remains strong. Most of what we experienced over the two days at Ongava Lodge was reassuringly the same as when we were there last, about 8 years ago. Excellent game-viewing, competent guiding, friendly management and staff and quality accommodation, food and beverages.

Ongava’s 13 spacious bungalows with thatched roofs are comfortable and air-conditioned; each with an indoor and outdoor shower, outside patio, safe, separate toilet, mosquito netting and tea and coffee station. The rooms as well as the common areas have WiFi.

Rooms 1 to 12 are strung out along a winding path, #1 and #2 being the best for views over the water hole and #7, #8 and #9 being a bit of a hike from the main building. Rooms #11 and #12 are adjacent and can be booked as an interleading family unit. Rooms #13 and #14 are on the other (western) side of camp, also overlooking the water hole.

The main lodge area and dining room is spacious and open-sided, with al fresco dining possible year round. There is a bar, a coffee station with espresso machine, several discrete lounge areas, and a separate and well-stocked curio shop.

The water hole in front of camp can be quite lively during the heat of the day when impala, zebra, waterbuck and many birds come to drink. It really comes into its own after nightfall. Over the course of a short 2-night stay we saw several white and black rhinos there, as well as a pride of seven lions. One evening we were in the hide with as many as seven black rhinos just meters away, staring right at us as they picked up the loud noise of the Nikon D4 shutter release. It was a singular experience to see that many of these rare, endangered animals in one spot.

The black rhino took their time to approach the water and started drinking in ones and twos, heads down, their heavy bodies reflected in the surface of the pond.

The event would have been remarkable ‘as is’, but it was made even more fascinating by the interaction between some of the rhinos. When meeting at water holes these usually highly territorial animals more or less suspend their enmity, but clearly they barely tolerate each other’s presence. So as we were watching – spellbound – from the hide, certain individuals would stare each other down, sometimes in a directly confrontational manner, making a loud bellowing noise which I took to be a warning indicator. ‘Get any closer and you’ll be sorry…’ One large rhino – a male – was particularly aggressive. The kicker was that all throughout this nearly hour-long event a lion pride nearby was roaring loudly, proclaiming their territorial dominance.

Surprisingly this hardly affected the rhinos’ behavior. They carried on drinking and chewing on salt blocks, seemingly unfazed, despite the fact that one of the black rhinos had a fairly young baby with her. Only once, when the lions were roaring very close by, did I observe the black rhino female with the youngster, take up a defensive stand and turn towards the source of the noise.

ONGAVA TENTED CAMP AND LITTLE ONGAVA

We inspected both Ongava Tented Camp and Little Ongava and while completely different in what they offer and the level of luxury and size, we will continue to include them in Namibia itineraries in future. Ongava Tented Camp is ‘just right’: not too big, not too small, not too luxurious or too rustic. Clearly well managed and in good shape, it is ideal for people wanting an intimate, ‘close to nature’ tented experience, without sacrificing too much in the way of creature comforts. The nine tented rooms (1 family room) are spacious and thoughtfully designed, not too close to each other, and connected by a sandy path. No boardwalk here…

The camp water hole is right in front of the main lounge and dining area and this proximity makes it one of the most popular features of the property. A cozy bar, fireplace and small pool add to the appeal of Ongava Tented Camp. Want to stay here in the dry season from about May through September/October? Be sure to book a year in advance, as it sells out every season.

Little Ongava is Ongava’s deluxe property and with just three beautifully designed and decorated rooms, each with its own private sala and rim flow pool, it has everything the most demanding traveler may want or need. Except maybe a small gym…

With a large lounge and ample space, a couple seeking a high degree of privacy would be quite happy here. The camp has only one vehicle for regular game drives so would-be visitors may want to book a private vehicle here, if they have specific activities in mind. Generally the camp outing is a morning (first day) outing to Etosha National Park, and an afternoon game drive on the Ongava Reserve. Guests can also walk down to the Ongava Lodge hide. You might see those black rhinos, so better do it…

A morning outing to Etosha, which took about 4 hours out and back, was fun and exciting with a wealth of sightings including several lions, a few elephants, and scores of impala, zebra, kudu, oryx and springbok. The water hole at Okaukuejo Camp was particularly lively with as many as 6 different species in and around the water at the same time.

By the time we reached Etosha it was well after the ‘golden hour’ so photographic conditions were not nearly at their best. A note of caution: Etosha’s roads are dusty! You will be in an open vehicle so you will be driving through some significant dust clouds kicked up by other vehicles. Do take the necessary precautions to protect yourself and your sensitive electronic gear.

THE ERONGO MOUNTAINS

Kathy and I specifically made time on this trip for a return visit to the Erongo Mountains, which we had not visited in many years. Our memories from our first trip were still vivid though: the appeal of its stark beauty was quickly revived as we drove in from Windhoek, a trip which took about 3 hours or so.

The Erongos is where you take a step back to when a series of cataclysmic events unfolded, about 130 million years ago, resulting in the formation of modern-day Namibia. Standing in what was once a gigantic volcano, the titanic force of ancient geological events is on display all around you. Massive rocky outcrops, jagged peaks, unbelievably huge boulders weathered into weird and fantastical shapes, they are all to be seen there.

In addition, the Erongos are famous for its San rock paintings dating back around 2,000 years or so, and the area offers a game-viewing aspect as well, with species such as giraffe and Hartmann’s Mountain zebra to be seen.

For birdwatchers the Erongo Mountains are special because of the presence of several Namibia endemics such as the Rockrunner, White-tailed Shrike, Monteiro’s Hornbill, Hartlaub’s Francolin and Damara Red-billed Hornbill.

For most people – other than rock art aficionados and birders as well as avid hikers and rock hounds, the Erongos would probably not feature high on a list of ‘must visit’ spots in Namibia.

Even so, as a stop-over in-between Swakopmund and Etosha (or vice versa), or between Windhoek and Etosha, it is certainly worth considering for a couple of nights.

We stayed at two lodges in the area.

ERONGO WILDERNESS LODGE

Erongo Wilderness Lodge is all about location: wedged in-between a few massive rocky outcrops, the views in one direction are equaled or surpassed by the views in another. Particularly at sunrise and sunset the effect is magnified and no matter which way you turn, the views are simply magnificent.

Our two hour hike out of Erongo Wilderness Lodge the following morning was a fantastic experience, unlike anything we’d done before in similar habitat. Walking and occasionally scrambling up a rocky trail, it took us a good 90 minutes (with lots of stops for educational information) before we reached the summit of one of the two highest rocky ridges surrounding the camp.

As the rising sun lit up the rock faces and cliffs around us, we made our way up and around a few rocky obstacles, one or twice walking up a steep, sheer expanse of rock, with patches of loose gravel making it interesting.

Getting to the summit was worth it, with superb views in every direction. Our capable and chatty guide Gelatius gave us a bit of perspective, talked about the composition of the rock, and helped us to find and observe a Rockrunner, one of the special birds of the area.

Note of caution: this activity is definitely in the ‘strenuous’ category. One would expect the 2 to 5 hour hikes along other routes (which we did not have time for) to be more of the same. So anyone with mobility issues, knee or hip problems etc. would be well advised not to attempt this activity. In fact, Erongo Wilderness Camp is not a great choice for anyone with significant mobility issues, as it is not suitable for wheelchairs, with 50 steps (not too steep) from the reception/parking area to the dining room.

In terms of accommodation and facilities, Erongo Wilderness Lodge is on the rustic end of the scale, but in a fun, adventurous sense. The tents are tucked into rocky hillsides, each with an amazing view over the surrounding rock faces.

Lighting, bedding, shower and other necessary requirements of a good safari camp were all adequate, if on the basic side. The bed lacked a bedside table, and the bathroom was cramped. The shower head could also be better. Our room did have a mosquito net which was a bonus.

The dining room – atop a hill – had good views and there were several interesting birds around, including Rosyfaced Lovebirds and Rock Pigeons. The food and beverage choices at Erongo Wilderness Lodge were great and we enjoyed a delicious dinner with a butternut soup and tasty game fillet. Breakfast was excellent too with savory or sweet crepes.

The next morning we were driven about 37 kilometers (23 miles) to Ai-Aiba, our stop for the next night.

AI-AIBA, THE ROCK PAINTING LODGE

Ai-Aiba, known at the rock painting lodge, has several good things going for it, starting with the spacious and imposing lounge and dining room area. Our two activities at the lodge were among the most enjoyable of the trip. The afternoon activity on the day of arrival (not included in the rate) was a 2.5 hour nature drive with a great guide: Frans. It was a mixture of game-viewing (zebra, giraffe and Damara dik-dik), some rock art (3 sites) and plenty of opportunities to simply appreciate the peace and quiet of the area, as the sun sank below the Erongo mountains to the west. The San rock art paintings were fascinating and puzzling. Estimated to be older than 2,000 years, they were painted by an unknown group of people who were likely passing through the area. Two figures of half-human and half-animal creatures were unusual; most were of familiar objects such as animals – even an extinct one – the quagga.

The following morning we took a 40-minute self-guided walk in the rocky ridge right behind the camp. It’s a relatively easy walk, except for the first few minutes which require a bit of a scramble up and around a few rocks. From there on it is plain sailing with more great views, a few San rock paintings and a few special birds (Whitetailed Shrike among others) along the way. Looping around the western side of the camp, a sandy trail takes you back to the lodge.

There were a couple of issues at Ai-Aiba which we mentioned to the camp management as these are easily fixable. The rather unimaginative rooms need some sprucing up (a new color scheme would make a big difference), as will the installation of mosquito nets and making the air conditioning units individually operable.

SWAKOPMUND

In Swakopmund we stayed at two hotels, namely Villa Margherita and The Stiltz, and we checked out the Hansa Hotel and Strand Hotel.

Not having been in Swakopmund in many years, we thoroughly enjoyed our rather brief 2-night stay in this quaint, dry coastal town, replete with German influence dating back to the time when ‘Deutsch-SudwestAfrika’ was a German colony, between 1884 and 1915.

In no particular order, we had superb meals (try the kob ‘catch of the day’) at Kuckis Pub and The Tug (pronounced ‘Tuck’’ here). We thought the aquarium was worth a brief visit of maybe 20 minutes or so (it only costs about a dollar), and by contrast we could have spent a lot more time than the 40 minutes we had for the Swakopmund Museum. Its fascinating range of exhibits, topics and artifacts merits at least a couple of hours or so.

Swakopmund is very walkable, particularly along the beach/waterfront and we walked all the way from one of the places we stayed at (The Stiltz) on the southern end of the town, to the Strand Hotel, a more recent addition to the accommodation choices in Swakopmund. The Stiltz is an unusual guest house/hotel with 8 wooden bungalows elevated on a boardwalk, overlooking a wetland with palms and coastal dune bush. It was rather incongruous to see a whole bunch of camels out there, one afternoon.

Our first night was spent at the colorful and whimsical Villa Margherita, which has an uptown location, a few blocks (but again eminently walkable) from the center of town. Our stay there in a cozy king room was comfortable, if somewhat chilly. Oddly, there was no central heating but an electrical blanket and a good duvet kept us warm enough. All of the rooms at Villa Margherita are individually decorated, colorful and definitely stylish. Only one or two have bathtubs, some may be a bit noisier (on the street) than others. The hotel caters well for small groups and families. Our only meal at Villa Margherita was breakfast and it was excellent.

HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP

Having visited Wilderness Safaris’ original Skeleton Coast Camp inside the Skeleton Coast National Park several years ago, we had been anticipating a visit to their ‘new’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp, for some time. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is already in its 5th year of operation, and remains as popular as the day it opened.

Just like at its predecessor, our stay at Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp was an otherworldly experience. Visitors enter an environment which appears to be anathema to any and all life forms, yet it turns out to be bursting with organisms big and small, from enigmatic desert adapted elephants to sassy Tenebrionid beetles. In fact, the game-viewing far outstripped our expectations. There were elephants, giraffes, oryxes, brown hyenas, jackals, springboks – and lions. And many more birds than one could ever imagine. It all starts with the coastal fog which cloaks the area at night, leaving behind life-giving condensation, eagerly utilized by beetles and many other organisms eking out a living in this harshest of environments.

The diversity is astonishing. Driving along the well-vegetated Hoanib riverbed, you’re constantly in and out of groves of massive Acacia Albida trees. Yet just beyond the edge of the river lies a moonscape of rocks, wide expanses of sand in motion, and often achingly beautiful gravelly plains interspersed with ribbons of finely patterned sand dunes and bordered by rocky outcrops.

The overriding impression is one of awe and apprehension. Clearly this is not a place to get lost or stranded, or explore on your own unless you are part of a convoy of 4-wheel drive vehicles. Maybe then…

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp itself is a small oasis of luxury in this unforgiving, yet astonishing landscape. The main lodge and dining room decor is minimalist but striking and fits in perfectly with the stark desert environment. It is a nicely dove-tailed, sand-colored tented structure with large glass windows and doors. With plenty of natural light and lots of space, tucked in behind the eastern side of a ridge, the camp is apparently well-protected from prevailing desert winds. We enjoyed our spacious and well-equipped tented room (on the left side of the lodge looking out towards the pool). This side of the camp is preferable I think over the ‘right hand’ side, where guests can hear vehicles coming into and leaving the camp.

As for activities, a stay of three nights minimum is highly recommended in order to fit in the wide range of outings on offer. By all means do a nature walk in the area in front of camp and down to the sizable Hoanib Riverbed. It was not flowing at the time we were there, but clearly a significant volume of water had rushed downstream not many weeks previously, as was evident from the abundant vegetation and the telltale signs of water erosion and massive patches of drying, cracking alluvial clay. It is a beautiful spot to be, particularly towards the end of the day when the feeling of desolation and utter remoteness is amplified.

Game drives in the area around the camp were super productive, with a simply unending stream of photo opportunities presenting themselves. This is truly a photographer’s dream with so much contrast, texture, life and pattern on display – and of course the most gorgeous light, early and late.

FULL DAY OUTING TO SKELETON COAST NATIONAL PARK

Our day outing into the Skeleton Coast National Park was fascinating and loaded with highlights. It started with lions in the morning, beautiful gemsbok against the dunes and then elephants in the most perfect morning light one can imagine. All pretty much before the sun was even completely up. From there it was a case of strapping yourself in tightly, as there were long stretches of exceedingly bumpy – downright rough – tracks to be negotiated before we made it to the coast. On the way there was an interesting stop at a couple of massive dunes for a fun slide-ride down a dune, in the vehicle. And an opportunity to fake some super high jumps, with a stunning dune-field in the background.

The coastline itself is no less rugged than the interior of the park. The scene of many tragic and costly shipwrecks over the years, it is dangerous on many levels, with no water, unreachably far from inhabited areas and accessible only by aircraft in a few spots, and by experienced 4-wheel drive operators. We got up close to one of the many wrecks littering the area and the sense of doom is pervasive. One can almost feel the despair of the sailors and the captain and it is not hard to imagine the ordeal they must have endured until they were rescued. Or not.

Soon enough, there was relief in the way of a splendid picnic lunch which was served right on the beach. The four of us – we were traveling with a lovely German couple – faced the ocean as we excitedly relived the day’s adventures, while tucking into the delicious fare which had been brought along.

Later on, we observed the antics of a large colony of Cape Fur Seals, spread out on the rocks right in the face of a never-ending series of breakers furiously crashing just below them. Scavengers like the Brown Hyena and Black-backed Jackals are often seen lurking on the perimeter of the seal colony, opportunistically dashing in to dispatch a misplaced young animal or a sickly individual. Life is harsh here, and the margin between survival and premature demise is clearly razor-thin. It was with a sense of quiet relief that we took our leave of this wildest of wild places, got back into the vehicles and were then driven to the nearby airstrip from where we flew back to Skeleton Coast Camp. The outing to the coastline and the flight back is a ‘value add’ bonus for guests staying three nights or more. Occasionally it has to be cancelled in the event of excessive coastal dune fog or other adverse weather conditions.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is certainly special and the experience there is quite unlike what one would expect to experience at almost any other Wilderness camp, with the possible exception of Serra Cafema. The surroundings, the dunes, the coast itself, and the surprisingly abundant wildlife all combine to make it an unforgettable place and experience. It’s a popular ticket, so book your spot well in advance!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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