Kenya Trip Report October 2009

PART 1: THE ROLLS ROYCE OF SAFARI DESTINATIONS

I re-visited four different areas of Kenya (the coast, the Rift Valley, the Maasai Mara and Samburu) earlier this month and yes, Kenya is still the Rolls Royce of safari destinations. It is a vintage model with 150,000+ miles on the clock, in need of a new paint job, with worn, dusty floor mats and slightly fraying leather here and there. But the quality is still there: the engine is sound and it will get you where you want to go safely and in style.

Kenya has many problems such as a rapidly burgeoning population, tribalism, a faltering economy,
corruption, congestion, lack of infrastructure, poverty and several others. Yet at its core it is still a
warm and friendly and amazingly beautiful country which offers visitors an astonishing array of attractions
and places to visit. Nowhere else in the world will you see as much wildlife and so many
different species, in such a relatively small area. Nowhere else will you be exposed to such cultural
diversity in a setting where ‘culture’ is interwoven with the safari experience: you don’t have to take
a side-trip to meet with the Maasai or the Samburu. They are where the wildlife is and continue to
co-exist harmoniously. Nowhere else can you experience such a dizzying variety of habitats ranging
from the Mara’s sea of grass to the semi-arid woodland and scrub of Samburu, the mountains
of the Laikipia region, the alkaline and fresh water lakes of the Rift Valley, the fantastic beaches in
the Tana Delta or elsewhere on the coast, the true forests of the west and many others which I
have not yet had the opportunity to visit.

And then there’s the people. Kenya’s best kept secret. Go ahead and learn a few Swahili phrases
and see for yourself just how friendly Kenyans can be. On this trip I had people everywhere spontaneously
taking an interest in where I was from & where I had been, and they were genuinely
pleased to be able to interact with a visitor on a personal level. These were not people anticipating a gratuity or some other award: just ordinary people wanting what we all seek: the warmth that flows when one human being connects with another.

I will deal with the various parts of the trip – including the superb flights on Emirates (upgraded to
Business Class all the way!) via Dubai – in separate posts to follow over the next couple of weeks
or so. For now, a few of my favorite photographs of the trip.

PART 2: ONE DAY IN THE DESERT

OCTOBER 2009 Dubai is a strange and amazing place. Here desert meets development, Arab and Western culture co-exist and anything seems possible. Our short stop-over in Dubai was certainly an eye-opener for me. I had previously heard from friends and relatives that Dubai was worth visiting, but I was skeptical. Until now. For US-based travelers en route to East Africa, Dubai is definitely worth an overnight stop, or even a couple of nights if you have the time. As good a place as any to get over jet lag, take in a few sights, and marvel at the amazing development in the desert. There were so many construction cranes to be seen all over the city, it looked like Houston in the late 1970’s. Some construction had been halted – due to the worldwide recession – but definitely not all.

Dubai boasts year round sunshine which is of course to be expected in the desert… What is not expected is an indoor downhill skiing facility complete with real snow, lush golf courses, international cricket tournaments, and a dizzying array of hotels, malls and office buildings. It is indeed a perfect getaway for shoppers, business people, families and adventure seekers as there is something for everyone.

Dubai is one of the seven emirates that form the United Arab Emirates. To say that it is a city of contrast is somewhat of an understatement. It is a very contemporary city against the backdrop of an ancient desert. For the casual visitor, there’s not much to be seen in the way of tradition, unless you count the traditional white clothing. With few exceptions, such as the Mosques and a city museum area, nothing in Dubai looks more than a few years old. Some not so welcome recent developments include traffic: we were stuck in at least two solid traffic jams during our short stay-over. So leave enough time to get back to the airport!

This is not the place to get into Dubai’s politics, which appear to be antediluvian in many respects. It
is a classic oligarchy, with a handful of Emirati (less than 20% of the total population) ruling over a
much larger yet politically impotent population of mostly guest workers who are not allowed to
become citizens. There is no naturalization process. You can stay and work, but you can’t vote.
Ever. And you turn into a pumpkin at age 58, when your temporary residency expires permanently.
How nice for Dubai, not having to deal with pesky older workers with their health-related issues –
and costs.

Our hotel for the overnight stop – the Dhow Palace – was conveniently located and seemingly
well run. Certainly my room (a massive suite) was spotless and well lit, and very effectively air-conditioned.
On the morning of our departure to Nairobi, several of us had breakfast in the downstairs
restaurant; in addition to the usual ‘eggs to order’, and other breakfast choices, there was beef bacon
and an impressive array of breads, pastries, cheeses, cold cuts, a couple of vegetarian dishes
and plenty of fresh fruit.

PART 3: SERIAN CAMP, NORTH MARA CONSERVANCY

Oct 7 2010
We spent our first night in Kenya at the Norfolk Hotel in downtown Nairobi. I suppose one could describe the Norfolk as being a bit like one’s favorite pair of shoes. Comfortable, dependable and durable. Not very exciting. We’re talking about everyday business apparel here, not dancing shoes. My courtyard room was smallish but well-equipped, the shower (no bath) water was hot, and the toilet flushed properly. What more do you really need in a hotel room? After two days of traveling, not much. Except maybe for a working internet connection, which was sadly lacking. Apparently there was a citywide outage, so I can’t really blame the Norfolk. We enjoyed a very good dinner at an Italian restaurant in a Nairobi suburb. I did not get much sleep due to the internet problem and jetlag. The best part of the stay was being able to run for almost an hour on a treadmill in the hotel gym. Breakfast the next morning was fine, with an extensive array of vegetarian options.

The next day we were off to the Maasai Mara on a 36-seater Safarilink Dash 8, with about 23 persons on board. We disembarked at Musiara airstrip, named for the legendary Musiara Swamp, the scene of many a successful game drive. I would be back here about 10 days later. Our first three nights would be spent at Serian Camp, a superb tented camp on the Mara River in the North Mara Conservancy. Even before we landed at Musiara, I could see that there were still many wildebeest around and so it was: hundreds of them in every direction as far as you could see. Plenty of birds too; in short order we saw Ostrich, three species of vultures, several Senegal Plover and a Secretarybird and there were Lilacbreasted Rollers everywhere.

The tent as seen from the outside; the bathroom is in a separate (adjacent) room just to the left – the steps which lead into the bathroom can be seen in the extreme left background/

Serian Camp was very comfortable with large tented rooms on wooden decks, overlooking the Mara River. From the porch in front of my tent, I had a great view of the river, with the impressive Oololoolo Escarpment in the background. Very peaceful, with just the sound of rushing water breaking the silence. Of course nature is quiet, but rarely completely silent. And so it was. There was plenty of natural noise being produced at Serian, but it was all good: Whitebrowed Robins calling loudly from within the thick bush, PufOack Shrikes protecting their territories, sunbirds twittering and a Klaas’ Cuckoo producing its plaintive ‘meitjie’ call.

The afternoon game drive produced a prolific array of mammals including Coke’s Hartebeest, also known as Kongoni, some good views of Eland, topi everywhere, Maasai giraffe, and then just before sunset, a couple of lions, the first of many.

There is one big advantage of staying at Serian or Ngare Serian, the smaller and slightly more upscale adjacent camp, on the other side of the Mara River: all visitors have a private vehicle and guide, and total flexibility in their program.

By the end of the first half day of game-viewing in the Mara, I had seen as much wildlife as one would ordinarily expect to see in a week in some Southern African regions. Hundreds, if not thousands of wildebeest, zebras, impala, Thompson’s and Kirk’s Gazelles, about 70 or so giraffes, and several other species including the previously mentioned eland, kongoni, topi, duiker, bushbuck, warthog and several others.

By nightfall, we were relaxing around an open fire and enjoying a convivial get-together over drinks, with the sun setting over the Oololoolo Escarpment. Thoughts of Dubai – and Houston – were fading as fast as the light disappearing over the horizon.

We did not see hundreds or even dozens of wildebeest plunging into the Mara River, but we did see some… This was at the Serena Crossing area along the Mara River, with several other vehicles around. Once we left the river, we started bumping into various groups of lions, first a female with a young lion, then two females with two babies. It was entertaining to see so many topi lookouts on large anthills, apparently keeping a close watch for predators. I later read that this is a form of territorial behavior. Two birds with one stone.

On this day, our aim was to find some cheetah and by mid-afternoon Warren spotted them: a female with three large cubs

We enjoyed lunch (sandwiches and pasta) in an absolutely divine spot on the Mara with drop-dead gorgeous views in practically every direction. I would have been quite happy to spend the rest of the afternoon right there, in a chair, perhaps reading something of no great consequence, only to be able to continue to enjoy the near endless views of blue mountains, ever-changing cloud formation, and the smoky haze obscuring the horizon. But we had come a long way to see stuff, not sit under a tree. So off we went in search of cheetah.

It was Shakira, a well-known – some may even say famous – cheetah, due to her feature role in a widely watched TV documentary.

Warren spotted the cheetah when he caught sight of something moving rapidly from right to left in the distance, on a grassy plain. There were four individuals, a female with 3 sub-adult youngsters. She had just taken down a young Tommy, and as we drove up the cheetah cubs were feeding voraciously. Later on the mother joined in as well. It was a spell-binding event, especially being so close: we could hear their rasping, rapid breathing. The female (we later learned that it was Shakira of TV fame) walked right up to the car and plopped down not much more than a couple of meters from the vehicle, looking up at us with the expression of an adoring puppy. Cheetahs are very vulnerable to competition from other more powerful predators, but Shakira has been very successful keeping her cubs alive and thriving.

Friday October 9
Three of my hobbies intersected this morning when I went for a run with two young Kenyans, David and Daniel, starting from camp along the Mara River to a soccer pitch, and then up and around the camp twice, probably about 5 miles total. We ran through some very uneven terrain with rocks, tufts of grass and other obstacles and there was at least one pretty good hill, so it was quite a challenge. I almost stumbled and fell twice, not because of the obstacles but because I was gawking at the wildlife. Never before in more than 20 years of going on safari, had I seen even remotely as much game on a foot safari. There were dozens of wildebeest, topi, kongoni, zebra, Thomson’s Gazelles and impala to be seen. At one stage a herd of topi seemed to be running alongside us. Not long after we set off, we had to amend the route slightly in order to avoid a small group of buffalo. David stopped briefly a couple of times to point out some birds spcies. About halfway through the run Daniel peeled off to the right and came back with a gorgeous flower which he presented to me with a big smile. A very spontaneous gesture which I really appreciated. I met up with the rest of the group for brunch at the very impressive Ngare Serian Camp, which is reached by a footbridge across the Mara River.

We were witness to a very tense standoff between a large group of about 20 to 30 hyenas, and four lions. After several mock charges and feints, the interaction fizzled out inconclusively, but it was clear that there was no love lost between the two groups. No wonder they have been described as eternal enemies.

Early in October 2009 there were still thousands of wildebeest to be seen in the northern part of the Maasai Mara We enjoyed a late breakfast at Serian’s mobile tented camp inside the Maasai Mara National Park, right on the Mara River, close to several regularly used wildebeest crossing points. For anyone who really wants to go for a prime wildlife experience in the Mara, Serian is an excellent choice. It is not a very ‘fancy’ camp but one cannot really describe it as rustic either. Alex Walker is a superb host and the presence of a lion research unit, headed by a young resident scientist – Sarah Blackburn – is a very interesting and educational ‘bonus’. Serian is located in a typical ecotone where several habitats are to be found right next to each other. The Mara River edged with riverine bush, acacia thornveld, mixed woodland and the grassy plains of the Mara. Hence the extraordinary number and variety of wildlife. We saw no other vehicles in the conservancy itself. Although we did not embark on any ourselves, night drives are possible. Ideally one should spend several days at Serian and then a couple of nights or so at the mobile tented camp inside the Park.

Soon enough, we had to say goodbye to the Mara, before heading back to Musiara Airstrip and from there to Malindi on Mombasa Air

PART 4: KENYA’S TANA DELTA

October 11 2009
Late the previous night, we had arrived at Delta Dunes Lodge in near darkness. So it was only the next morning that we could find our bearings, realizing that we were in a very special place. Delta Dunes consists of 7 huge split-level rooms hugging a massive coastal dune with views over the Tana Delta estuary and the Indian Ocean. My room was very breezy, which was very welcome at this time of the year – it was quite hot. Some of the rooms are a long way up the hill, with many steep steps to be negotiated. The all-wood constructed rooms are lit day and night with mains power. It is a rustic but magnificent lodge, the rooms reminding me somewhat of Ras Kutani just south of Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. We made very good use of the fabulous pool as well.

Activities at Delta Dunes are very diverse including windsurfing (beach sailing), on a massively wide beach at low tide. Fishing is good too, as our group leader Warren found out soon enough when he landed a very nice barracuda of about 30 lbs, caught on live bait.

One of the highlights of our stay at Delta Dunes was a visit to a nearby Orma village. It was a novel experience for several of us: enjoying sweet chai in one of the villagers’ homes is not something we do every day. We spent some time in the tiny school building, where a single teacher was doing his best with 40 children in two groups. The number of very young children was noticeable: one of the young mothers was only 22, but had already had five children.

We were thrilled to observe a group of Orma women dancing, their colorful native dress making it quite a spectacle. Soon enough one of the members of our group, Sheena, was right in there too dancing with them, a beautiful smile lighting up her face.

We came away from the village visit with a very good feeling. Despite the obvious hardship and signs of poverty, all the children were happy and seemingly content. We never felt uncomfortable or patronizing – and it was in every way a very authentic, honest experience.

On our last day in the Delta, I edited a few photographs and then went for a 5-mile run at a nice
pace along the Indian Ocean shoreline with the tide coming in. Definitely a rave run! We enjoyed a
great brunch at 1000A including fresh fruit, porridge, sweet rolls, muesli, toast, and for the omnivores
eggs to order with sausage, bacon etc. If you could manage, there were some beans and a mixed
green salad as well.

That afternoon, we took a 45-minute flight from Malindi to Nairobi. That was after some shopping in
Malindi (Shakir’s in old town is a good spot for kikois and kangas) and a light lunch at an Italian
restaurant. We arrived in Nairobi at 17h45 and got stuck in some horrendous traffic, finally getting to
our hotel – the Tribe – after 90 minutes of frustration. The Tribe is an impressive ultra-modern hotel
near the United Nations headquarters and the large US Embassy. The room wasn’t huge but perfectly
good with a shower, climate control, multi-channel HD TV and wireless internet.

A little later that evening, we enjoyed a superb dinner at the Lord Errol restaurant, where we
thanked our hosts Liberty Africa, said our goodbyes and started thinking about going home, or
going on to other parts of East Africa. The next day I would be heading up to Samburu in northern
Kenya for the first time.

PART 5: SAMBURU NATIONAL PARK

14 October 2010
I was up before 0530 this morning to check and respond to e-mails. As a result, no time for breakfast before having to head out to Wilson Airport to catch a Safarilink Cessna Caravan (just two passengers) via Nanyuki (40 minutes) to Samburu (20 minutes).

My room at Elephant Bedroom Camp on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River was large and comfortable, and I quite enjoyed the lounge and dining area which also overlooked the river. The area was extremely dry with several dead cows to be seen all around, as well as other dead mammals including the hardy Impala.

On the afternoon game drive, we saw large numbers of Reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Beisa Oryx, plenty of the fascinating gerenuk, impala, many dik-dik, a few elephant, and a couple of female lions. Despite the drought, the area was very productive.

Lunch on this day was most enjoyable – a pasta stirfry and salad, with fresh fruit salad for dessert. Dinner later on was perfect: ugali (the local maize polenta) with spinach, onion soup, and peach fritters.

This was the conclusion of a really amazing giraffe sighting when we followed a group of almost 30 giraffes including several youngsters. There are few sights quite as striking as a large group of Reticulated giraffe against the backdrop of the sun setting over the mountains.

While I was in the Samburu area, it started to rain heavily and the Uaso Nyiro River came down in a flood. At first it was just some light rain on the afternoon we arrived, but by evening heavy thunderstorms were rolling in. Eventually the area was totally soaked and as a result of similar rain falling elsewhere in the catchment area of the Uaso Nyiro River, it started to run very strongly. Amazingly, we could see the area becoming green just 2 days later; we were told that it gets noticeably green just 3 days after significant rain.

Yet another Samburu endemic is the striking Grevy’s Zebra. Their thin stripes and the absence of a ‘shadow’ effect give them a particularly elegant appearance.

The very morning after the first rains of the season had fallen, the game started to disperse and all the endemics which had been bunched together the previous day along the river, seemed to have disappeared. Our morning game drive started very very slowly but improved with a couple of good buffalo and elephant sightings, and a far-off (across the river) sighting of a cheetah. Ten minutes or so later, we came upon a couple of stationary minibuses observing a leopard in a tree. As we approached the scene, the leopard clambered down and walked to a nearby bush where it had left its impala kill.

The leopard then proceeded to wrestle and drag the dead impala a good 30 to 40 meters along the ground, disappearing into a gully. I fired off a quick few pics with mixed results, even so I was happy to be able to tick off leopard on my trip mammal list. Then it was back to the lodge for breakfast. With just two guests that morning, breakfast was a la carte and quite enjoyable. I had a fresh fruit platter, vegan pancakes with syrup, and a mixed plate with baked beans on toast, grilled tomato and sauteed potatoes. Nobody ever goes hungry on safari!

Samburu is known for some pretty reliable leopard sightings and it did not disappoint, this particular leopard had just jumped down from a tree and was on its way to drag its prey into a nearby donga.

While in the area, I spent a night at Intrepids Samburu Camp. This is a fairly large camp with 28 rooms, 14 on each side of the main lodge. I found the camp to be very comfortable and would really have liked to spend more time there. The tents are well-equipped with adequate lighting, seating, a separate toilet with door and a large shower. This is ‘luxury camping’ for sure. All the rooms have river views and there are few if any steps. Beds are of the 4-post type with effective mosquito netting, although there were no mosquitoes to speak of.

The food and catering at Samburu Intrepids was amongst the best of any of the camps on my trip. Dinner one evening was really fun in the company of a couple of Canadian ladies (Marly and Erica) and Jenny from Sydney, Australia. As is customary on safari, we talked about what we had each experienced thus far, and amongst others there was a rave review of Singita and a not-so-great report about the food at Chobe Game Lodge. My dinner entree of risotto with a tomato-based sauce was excellent, as was the butternut squash starter and fresh fruit dessert.

By 1140A on 16 October I was on my way back to Nairobi, to meet my Origins Safaris guide for a road trip to the Lake Nakuru area, in the heart of Kenya’s Rift Valley.

PART 6: KENYA’S RIFT VALLEY

Oct 16 2009
There was a light drizzle when my Origins Safaris guide Stanley Kariithi and I got underway on the 2hr+ road trip to Lake Naivasha. The Nairobi-Nakuru highway is generally in excellent condition, the same however cannot be said of the road behavior. Stanley displayed immense patience with the reckless driving of the matatu drivers who passed other vehicles with seemingly no regard for their own or their passengers’ safety.

This is one of the reasons why we don’t recommend road trips and more specifically, self-driving. Even so, due to the good condition of the road, this particular trip is manageable and I certainly enjoyed some beautiful vistas over parts of the Rift Valley, en route. It was also an interesting experience to observe the terrain and activities along the roadway. Just outside of Nairobi there are roadside stalls selling everything under the sun, from cooked food to live chickens, furniture and clothing.

By late afternoon, we arrived at Loldia House, a well-known guest house dating back to the 1920’s.
The setting and the grounds, with stunning views over Lake Naivasha, are superb. Right around the lodge there are some massive trees and the birdlife is excellent. I was also surprised to see a variety
of mammals in close proximity to the lodge, including wildebeest, zebra and lots of buffalo.

My room (#1) at Loldia House, in the main original house, has excellent views over the gardens and
the lake itself. However the room and especially the bathroom (which has a bath and shower) can
do with an update and refurbishment. I was very happy to find a wireless internet connection in my
room and spent a couple of hours later that night updating e-mail.

Dinner was at the large table in the dining room, with Loldia House Manager Peter Njoroge serving
as the host. Peter was very gracious and personable, not to mention witty! It wasn’t long before he
was teaching me several new Swahili words and phrases. My main course was wholesome and filling,
but really nothing special – a mix of some vegetables and rice. The appetizer was a much
more interesting vegetarian ‘cutlet’ which was very tasty. Dessert consisted of fresh fruit, amongst
the best of any I had experienced on the Kenya trip to date.

October 17 2009
I was up fairly early for a 4-mile run with Bernard, one of the Loldia personnel, all along the perimeter of the game area. It was quite hilly and fairly strenuous, but I enjoyed every second which we spent on the trail. After all, I was running in the Rift Valley, the birthplace of most of Kenya’s famous long-distance runners!

Then it was time for breakfast, which consisted of more fruit, some toast, pancakes and porridge,
known as uji in Swahili. Thanks, Peter! Peter then showed me around the rest of the Loldia House
property, consisting of several separate cottages and a family house with 3 rooms, 2 of which have
en suite bathrooms. It is ideal for a family or two couples traveling together.

Stanley and I then set off by road for the 2hr drive to Lake Nakuru, where I would overnight at Mbweha
Camp, a lodge consisting of a large thatched lounge, bar and dining area with a central fireplace
and 10 rustic thatched rock cabins with en suite shower and toilet and solar lighting.

The lodge lounge and dining room area is quite nice, just a little ‘smoky’ because of the indoor fireplace.
The food was good and varied, if somewhat ambitious at times.

October 18 2009
There was no water in the faucets or shower in my room this morning. The previous night I had found out that there was no bedside lamp or light switch in the room. Very annoying to have to get up and switch off the light just when you’re dozing off… I am not wildly enthusiastic about this camp but my stay was so short, it is really unfair to judge it. Compared with some other Lake Nakuru accommodation options, it is quite small with a high level of personal service which is always a big plus in my book. The property just needs a little bit more ‘polish’. I think two nights there would be good in order to take a couple of game drives into Lake Nakuru National Park and to enjoy some of the other lodge activities such as a night drive and walking.

Lake Nakuru National Park is well-known for its rhino, and within minutes of entering the park we spotted this white rhino not far from the shoreline.

During an afternoon drive into Lake Nakuru National Park, we did a site inspection of Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. This very large (100+ rooms) but well managed facility offers comfortable accommodation in an excellent location overlooking the lake. All meals are buffet-style with an extensive menu including several vegetarian options. The standard rooms are on the small side but adequate for a couple. The suites are much more spacious and certainly a recommended choice.

On a game drive along the shores of Lake Nakuru this afternoon, we saw lots of buffalo, plains zebra, impala, Thomson’s Gazelles, Defassa Waterbuck, warthhog and notably several white rhino, also 4 black and white Colobus monkeys, a life mammal for yours truly. We had some good views of a few Rothschild’s Giraffe, which was also a life mammal! Nice going.

On October 19 (morning) we took another game drive to Lake Nakuru. In the early morning the light is better for photographs of the thousands of Lesser and Greater Flamingo for which the lake is famous. There was a good concentration of several thousand birds in the South-eastern corner of the lake, and I made quite a few exposures. Like the previous day, we saw lots of buffalo and other wildlife and several white rhino, one with a very young calf.

By midday on Oct 19 we drove back to Loldia House/Naivasha airstrip, where I said goodbye to Stanley. He was an ideal guide: knowledgeable, friendly and a professional through and through. It is good to know that my Origins Safaris clients are in the hands of people like Stanley Kariithi and his colleagues. Soon enough we were airborne and embarking on the last leg of this great African adventure. I would be returning to the Maasai for two more days!

PART 7: BACK TO THE MARA ONE MORE TIME

Oct 18 2009
The flight from Lake Naivasha to the Maasai Mara in a DeHavilland Otter was fairly quick and not too bumpy, considering the intermittent rain and thunderstorms which we encountered en route. Our plane touched down at Ol Kiombo airstrip at 4:00P where I was picked up and then just a few minutes later, transferred to a game drive vehicle. The two other guests that afternoon were Bill from Zurich and Jason from Minneapolis-St. Paul.

It wasn’t long before we saw several game drive vehicles along a hillside in the distance. “Must be
Shakira,” said our guide Dennis and after a 10-minute drive to the spot, his prediction turned out to
be correct. There was Shakira (with her three subadult young) which I had seen and photographed
in the Mara just slightly more than a week earlier. She was clearly on the hunt, very alert and
checking out a herd of Thomson’s Gazelles which were nervously gathered on a nearby hillside.
When one of Shakira’s cubs took an exploratory short run towards the Tommies, they promptly
scattered with several of them bouncing right past us, on our left.

Abandoning the attempt, the 4 cheetah then advanced towards us, walking right by the vehicle, before
sitting down again to plot another hunting attempts.

October 19
Our game drive this morning was fantastic with great views of elephants, eland, giraffe and two sightings of lions, one on a fresh kill (two wildebeest) and the other one a lioness with 2 young cubs.

Mara Explorer Camp makes a great first impression. It is small and quiet and nothing like Mara Intrepids. The rooms are large, well-appointed tents – 7 doubles and 3 twins. The camp has a beautiful lounge and dining room, very much reminiscent of some of the Botswana tented camps. In terms of the quality of the camp, I would rank it somewhere in-between Wilderness Safaris’ nicer classic camps and their premier camps such as Vumbura Plains. Mara Explorer has a high level of privacy, and there is a radio in each tent to communicate with the camp for example to request an escort to the dining area. Several of our regular clients return to Mara Explorer Camp year after year, and it is easy to see why.

After the inspection visit to Mara Explorer Camp, it was on to Governor’s Camp in the Musiara Swamp area of the Mara. It is a rather large camp sleeping about 72 persons in 36 tents. The tents are basic Meru-style erected on a concrete/slasto base with small front entrance verandah. There is very little privacy in the camp with many of the tents only being 30 to 45 feet apart. The tents have zippers for a front entrance as well as zippers between the main portion of the tent and the ensuite bathroom (toilet, bidet and shower). Zippers are at best annoying, often downright frustrating. I think any safari camp would be well-advised to replace front door zippers with real doors.

Governors gets high marks for lunch: they had a special vegan meal (baked potato, a superb yellow lentil stew and stir-fried snow peas and carrots) delivered to my table. Lunch is served outside, under some large trees along the Mara River. One other thing bothered me slightly, which was the amount of aircraft noise due to the proximity of the Musiara airstrip.

Il Moran is a small upscale camp with 10 private (well spaced) tents all facing the Mara River. The spacious tents with massive double beds have deluxe fittings, generator-supplied electricity and it guarantees a maximum of 4 persons to a vehicle on game drives.

From Il Moran, it was a short drive to Little Governors, where camp manager Colin showed me around. The camp consists of 17 tents in a half circle overlooking what is ordinarily a huge swamp, but (then) a rapidly drying, rather dessicated ‘wetland’ if one could call it that.

When the area is not in the midst of a long drought, I am sure that Little Governor’s is a great camp – it had an intimate, relaxed feel to it. Importantly, guests are transported to the camp by boat across the Mara River on arrival, which involves negotation about 30 or 40 very steep steps on each side of the river. Guests also have to walk down and up the steps each time they take a game drive.

Despite its size and age (showing a bit of wear), Governor’s Camp clearly stands out due to its game-viewing, which was nothing short of phenomenal. On just a very short game drive, in the early afternoon – certainly not the most productive time of the day – we drove past hundreds of animals of a dizzying variety of species including elephant, buffalo, hippo, topi, wildebeest, zebra, Thomson’s Gazelles, Grant’s Gazelles, impala, reedbuck, waterbuck, banded mongoose and an couple of others which I might have missed.

There was a long row of wildebeest walking in near single file, seemingly headed for a Mara River crossing point, en route to Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains. It was a quintessential African scene: animals following some unwritten script, navigating an uncharted map yet the vast majority of them making their way safely to better pastures.

Dinner on my last night in Kenya was exactly as requested: some freshly made ugali with a side of traditionally prepared spinach, and some baked beans. Couldn’t have been any better!

However, there was one more game drive to follow and it was a doozy, with lions taking pride of place, no pun intended. First we spotted a few females, but our attention quickly shifted to three young males chasing off a hyena. Bu the time we arrived on the scene, the hyena was beating a hasty retreat. I later learned that the lions had actually landed a few blows, but the hyena escaped with its life.

From that point, we drove around the northern edge of the Musiara Swamp to a muddy reedbed where 3 young female lions were busy devouring a warthog which they had just killed. They were all members of the huge Musiara Pride, very aptly named as they were literally wallowing in the marsh, their legs eventually covered with mud.

Not long afterwards, the young males walked around the southern edge of the marsh and approached the females. There was a lot of growling, posturing and some dominant behavior, before the lions settled down.

We returned to camp in good spirits, improved even further when I got a couple of useful photographs of a Schalow’s Turaco (life bird) and Ross Turaco (seen for the first time in Zambia in August).

Soon afterwards, the long journey back started: Musiara Airstrip to Nairobi, Nairobi to Dubai and then finally Dubai direct to Houston. The 45-minute flight to Nairobi was uneventful, although it departed from Kichwa Tembo and not Musiara, so I had to make the trip across the Mara River one more time, to Little Governors and then by road to Kichwa Tembo.

Once back in Nairobi I took it easy for a couple of hours in a dayroom at the Panari Hotel, took a long hot bath, ‘enjoyed’ a perfectly awful lunch at Al Pasha restaurant and then headed off to the airport. The flights back from there were long but smooth, pampered all the way in a business class seat on Emirates. As flying goes, it doesn’t get much better than that. The only sour note: some guy from Oklahoma snoring non-stop for about 9 hours on the flight from Dubai to Houston.

The final word on Kenya? A fantastic wildlife experience: nowhere else in the world will you see such a variety and abundance of wildlife and culture in one country. The variety and density of wildlife species – all over the northern Maasai Mara – and particularly in the Intrepids area (Talek River), Musiara Swamp and North Mara Conservancy, was downright astonishing.

Yes Kenya has many problems which I won’t dwell on here (we touched on those in the introductory
portion of this report). In the long run no doubt the country will have severe problems with
habitat loss due to unfettered population growth and resultant human encroachment in wildlife areas.
This last season was an abnormal one due to the pervasive drought, but the high numbers of
Maasai cattle in all the wildlife areas were all too visible. This type of concession (it is ok to bring
huge numbers of cattle into national parks) is understandable but at the same time an ominous
sign for the future. Of course the lives and livelihood of humans have to take precedence over
wildlife, but maybe someone should start asking questions about the cattle. Do the Maasai really
have to have so many cattle? It seems to be all about the numbers and not the quality.

As for mass tourism, it need not spoil anyone’s enjoyment of a Kenyan safari. Yes there will be 6
or 7 vehicles jockeying for position around a predator sighting, every now and then but certainly
not everywhere. Select the right camps and areas, and travel only with a private car and guide, and
you can keep any ‘crowd’ experiences to a minimum. Nobody expects to be all by him or herself
at the Smithsonian’s Air and Space Museum in August. Likewise, it is unrealistic to expect to enjoy
the world’s greatest wildlife spectacle all on your own.

Some of the roads are poor, the matatu drivers are a menace and Nairobi traffic is a bear. If you
are prepared to overlook these issues, and ready to embrace the many delightful surprises which
await you on safari, go soon. Spend enough time in the Mara and you will see lots of lions, and
much else besides! Learn a few Swahili phrases (it’s easy!) and experience friendliness like never before
in your life. Even with plain old English, and a couple of ‘jambo’s’ and ‘asante’s’ mixed in here
and there, you will have an amazing time.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Kenya Trip Report October 2009

PART 1: THE ROLLS ROYCE OF SAFARI DESTINATIONS

I re-visited four different areas of Kenya (the coast, the Rift Valley, the Maasai Mara and Samburu) earlier this month and yes, Kenya is still the Rolls Royce of safari destinations. It is a vintage model with 150,000+ miles on the clock, in need of a new paint job, with worn, dusty floor mats and slightly fraying leather here and there. But the quality is still there: the engine is sound and it will get you where you want to go safely and in style.

Kenya has many problems such as a rapidly burgeoning population, tribalism, a faltering economy,
corruption, congestion, lack of infrastructure, poverty and several others. Yet at its core it is still a
warm and friendly and amazingly beautiful country which offers visitors an astonishing array of attractions
and places to visit. Nowhere else in the world will you see as much wildlife and so many
different species, in such a relatively small area. Nowhere else will you be exposed to such cultural
diversity in a setting where ‘culture’ is interwoven with the safari experience: you don’t have to take
a side-trip to meet with the Maasai or the Samburu. They are where the wildlife is and continue to
co-exist harmoniously. Nowhere else can you experience such a dizzying variety of habitats ranging
from the Mara’s sea of grass to the semi-arid woodland and scrub of Samburu, the mountains
of the Laikipia region, the alkaline and fresh water lakes of the Rift Valley, the fantastic beaches in
the Tana Delta or elsewhere on the coast, the true forests of the west and many others which I
have not yet had the opportunity to visit.

And then there’s the people. Kenya’s best kept secret. Go ahead and learn a few Swahili phrases
and see for yourself just how friendly Kenyans can be. On this trip I had people everywhere spontaneously
taking an interest in where I was from & where I had been, and they were genuinely
pleased to be able to interact with a visitor on a personal level. These were not people anticipating a gratuity or some other award: just ordinary people wanting what we all seek: the warmth that flows when one human being connects with another.

I will deal with the various parts of the trip – including the superb flights on Emirates (upgraded to
Business Class all the way!) via Dubai – in separate posts to follow over the next couple of weeks
or so. For now, a few of my favorite photographs of the trip.

PART 2: ONE DAY IN THE DESERT

OCTOBER 2009 Dubai is a strange and amazing place. Here desert meets development, Arab and Western culture co-exist and anything seems possible. Our short stop-over in Dubai was certainly an eye-opener for me. I had previously heard from friends and relatives that Dubai was worth visiting, but I was skeptical. Until now. For US-based travelers en route to East Africa, Dubai is definitely worth an overnight stop, or even a couple of nights if you have the time. As good a place as any to get over jet lag, take in a few sights, and marvel at the amazing development in the desert. There were so many construction cranes to be seen all over the city, it looked like Houston in the late 1970’s. Some construction had been halted – due to the worldwide recession – but definitely not all.

Dubai boasts year round sunshine which is of course to be expected in the desert… What is not expected is an indoor downhill skiing facility complete with real snow, lush golf courses, international cricket tournaments, and a dizzying array of hotels, malls and office buildings. It is indeed a perfect getaway for shoppers, business people, families and adventure seekers as there is something for everyone.

Dubai is one of the seven emirates that form the United Arab Emirates. To say that it is a city of contrast is somewhat of an understatement. It is a very contemporary city against the backdrop of an ancient desert. For the casual visitor, there’s not much to be seen in the way of tradition, unless you count the traditional white clothing. With few exceptions, such as the Mosques and a city museum area, nothing in Dubai looks more than a few years old. Some not so welcome recent developments include traffic: we were stuck in at least two solid traffic jams during our short stay-over. So leave enough time to get back to the airport!

This is not the place to get into Dubai’s politics, which appear to be antediluvian in many respects. It
is a classic oligarchy, with a handful of Emirati (less than 20% of the total population) ruling over a
much larger yet politically impotent population of mostly guest workers who are not allowed to
become citizens. There is no naturalization process. You can stay and work, but you can’t vote.
Ever. And you turn into a pumpkin at age 58, when your temporary residency expires permanently.
How nice for Dubai, not having to deal with pesky older workers with their health-related issues –
and costs.

Our hotel for the overnight stop – the Dhow Palace – was conveniently located and seemingly
well run. Certainly my room (a massive suite) was spotless and well lit, and very effectively air-conditioned.
On the morning of our departure to Nairobi, several of us had breakfast in the downstairs
restaurant; in addition to the usual ‘eggs to order’, and other breakfast choices, there was beef bacon
and an impressive array of breads, pastries, cheeses, cold cuts, a couple of vegetarian dishes
and plenty of fresh fruit.

PART 3: SERIAN CAMP, NORTH MARA CONSERVANCY

Oct 7 2010
We spent our first night in Kenya at the Norfolk Hotel in downtown Nairobi. I suppose one could describe the Norfolk as being a bit like one’s favorite pair of shoes. Comfortable, dependable and durable. Not very exciting. We’re talking about everyday business apparel here, not dancing shoes. My courtyard room was smallish but well-equipped, the shower (no bath) water was hot, and the toilet flushed properly. What more do you really need in a hotel room? After two days of traveling, not much. Except maybe for a working internet connection, which was sadly lacking. Apparently there was a citywide outage, so I can’t really blame the Norfolk. We enjoyed a very good dinner at an Italian restaurant in a Nairobi suburb. I did not get much sleep due to the internet problem and jetlag. The best part of the stay was being able to run for almost an hour on a treadmill in the hotel gym. Breakfast the next morning was fine, with an extensive array of vegetarian options.

The next day we were off to the Maasai Mara on a 36-seater Safarilink Dash 8, with about 23 persons on board. We disembarked at Musiara airstrip, named for the legendary Musiara Swamp, the scene of many a successful game drive. I would be back here about 10 days later. Our first three nights would be spent at Serian Camp, a superb tented camp on the Mara River in the North Mara Conservancy. Even before we landed at Musiara, I could see that there were still many wildebeest around and so it was: hundreds of them in every direction as far as you could see. Plenty of birds too; in short order we saw Ostrich, three species of vultures, several Senegal Plover and a Secretarybird and there were Lilacbreasted Rollers everywhere.

The tent as seen from the outside; the bathroom is in a separate (adjacent) room just to the left – the steps which lead into the bathroom can be seen in the extreme left background/

Serian Camp was very comfortable with large tented rooms on wooden decks, overlooking the Mara River. From the porch in front of my tent, I had a great view of the river, with the impressive Oololoolo Escarpment in the background. Very peaceful, with just the sound of rushing water breaking the silence. Of course nature is quiet, but rarely completely silent. And so it was. There was plenty of natural noise being produced at Serian, but it was all good: Whitebrowed Robins calling loudly from within the thick bush, PufOack Shrikes protecting their territories, sunbirds twittering and a Klaas’ Cuckoo producing its plaintive ‘meitjie’ call.

The afternoon game drive produced a prolific array of mammals including Coke’s Hartebeest, also known as Kongoni, some good views of Eland, topi everywhere, Maasai giraffe, and then just before sunset, a couple of lions, the first of many.

There is one big advantage of staying at Serian or Ngare Serian, the smaller and slightly more upscale adjacent camp, on the other side of the Mara River: all visitors have a private vehicle and guide, and total flexibility in their program.

By the end of the first half day of game-viewing in the Mara, I had seen as much wildlife as one would ordinarily expect to see in a week in some Southern African regions. Hundreds, if not thousands of wildebeest, zebras, impala, Thompson’s and Kirk’s Gazelles, about 70 or so giraffes, and several other species including the previously mentioned eland, kongoni, topi, duiker, bushbuck, warthog and several others.

By nightfall, we were relaxing around an open fire and enjoying a convivial get-together over drinks, with the sun setting over the Oololoolo Escarpment. Thoughts of Dubai – and Houston – were fading as fast as the light disappearing over the horizon.

We did not see hundreds or even dozens of wildebeest plunging into the Mara River, but we did see some… This was at the Serena Crossing area along the Mara River, with several other vehicles around. Once we left the river, we started bumping into various groups of lions, first a female with a young lion, then two females with two babies. It was entertaining to see so many topi lookouts on large anthills, apparently keeping a close watch for predators. I later read that this is a form of territorial behavior. Two birds with one stone.

On this day, our aim was to find some cheetah and by mid-afternoon Warren spotted them: a female with three large cubs

We enjoyed lunch (sandwiches and pasta) in an absolutely divine spot on the Mara with drop-dead gorgeous views in practically every direction. I would have been quite happy to spend the rest of the afternoon right there, in a chair, perhaps reading something of no great consequence, only to be able to continue to enjoy the near endless views of blue mountains, ever-changing cloud formation, and the smoky haze obscuring the horizon. But we had come a long way to see stuff, not sit under a tree. So off we went in search of cheetah.

It was Shakira, a well-known – some may even say famous – cheetah, due to her feature role in a widely watched TV documentary.

Warren spotted the cheetah when he caught sight of something moving rapidly from right to left in the distance, on a grassy plain. There were four individuals, a female with 3 sub-adult youngsters. She had just taken down a young Tommy, and as we drove up the cheetah cubs were feeding voraciously. Later on the mother joined in as well. It was a spell-binding event, especially being so close: we could hear their rasping, rapid breathing. The female (we later learned that it was Shakira of TV fame) walked right up to the car and plopped down not much more than a couple of meters from the vehicle, looking up at us with the expression of an adoring puppy. Cheetahs are very vulnerable to competition from other more powerful predators, but Shakira has been very successful keeping her cubs alive and thriving.

Friday October 9
Three of my hobbies intersected this morning when I went for a run with two young Kenyans, David and Daniel, starting from camp along the Mara River to a soccer pitch, and then up and around the camp twice, probably about 5 miles total. We ran through some very uneven terrain with rocks, tufts of grass and other obstacles and there was at least one pretty good hill, so it was quite a challenge. I almost stumbled and fell twice, not because of the obstacles but because I was gawking at the wildlife. Never before in more than 20 years of going on safari, had I seen even remotely as much game on a foot safari. There were dozens of wildebeest, topi, kongoni, zebra, Thomson’s Gazelles and impala to be seen. At one stage a herd of topi seemed to be running alongside us. Not long after we set off, we had to amend the route slightly in order to avoid a small group of buffalo. David stopped briefly a couple of times to point out some birds spcies. About halfway through the run Daniel peeled off to the right and came back with a gorgeous flower which he presented to me with a big smile. A very spontaneous gesture which I really appreciated. I met up with the rest of the group for brunch at the very impressive Ngare Serian Camp, which is reached by a footbridge across the Mara River.

We were witness to a very tense standoff between a large group of about 20 to 30 hyenas, and four lions. After several mock charges and feints, the interaction fizzled out inconclusively, but it was clear that there was no love lost between the two groups. No wonder they have been described as eternal enemies.

Early in October 2009 there were still thousands of wildebeest to be seen in the northern part of the Maasai Mara We enjoyed a late breakfast at Serian’s mobile tented camp inside the Maasai Mara National Park, right on the Mara River, close to several regularly used wildebeest crossing points. For anyone who really wants to go for a prime wildlife experience in the Mara, Serian is an excellent choice. It is not a very ‘fancy’ camp but one cannot really describe it as rustic either. Alex Walker is a superb host and the presence of a lion research unit, headed by a young resident scientist – Sarah Blackburn – is a very interesting and educational ‘bonus’. Serian is located in a typical ecotone where several habitats are to be found right next to each other. The Mara River edged with riverine bush, acacia thornveld, mixed woodland and the grassy plains of the Mara. Hence the extraordinary number and variety of wildlife. We saw no other vehicles in the conservancy itself. Although we did not embark on any ourselves, night drives are possible. Ideally one should spend several days at Serian and then a couple of nights or so at the mobile tented camp inside the Park.

Soon enough, we had to say goodbye to the Mara, before heading back to Musiara Airstrip and from there to Malindi on Mombasa Air

PART 4: KENYA’S TANA DELTA

October 11 2009
Late the previous night, we had arrived at Delta Dunes Lodge in near darkness. So it was only the next morning that we could find our bearings, realizing that we were in a very special place. Delta Dunes consists of 7 huge split-level rooms hugging a massive coastal dune with views over the Tana Delta estuary and the Indian Ocean. My room was very breezy, which was very welcome at this time of the year – it was quite hot. Some of the rooms are a long way up the hill, with many steep steps to be negotiated. The all-wood constructed rooms are lit day and night with mains power. It is a rustic but magnificent lodge, the rooms reminding me somewhat of Ras Kutani just south of Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. We made very good use of the fabulous pool as well.

Activities at Delta Dunes are very diverse including windsurfing (beach sailing), on a massively wide beach at low tide. Fishing is good too, as our group leader Warren found out soon enough when he landed a very nice barracuda of about 30 lbs, caught on live bait.

One of the highlights of our stay at Delta Dunes was a visit to a nearby Orma village. It was a novel experience for several of us: enjoying sweet chai in one of the villagers’ homes is not something we do every day. We spent some time in the tiny school building, where a single teacher was doing his best with 40 children in two groups. The number of very young children was noticeable: one of the young mothers was only 22, but had already had five children.

We were thrilled to observe a group of Orma women dancing, their colorful native dress making it quite a spectacle. Soon enough one of the members of our group, Sheena, was right in there too dancing with them, a beautiful smile lighting up her face.

We came away from the village visit with a very good feeling. Despite the obvious hardship and signs of poverty, all the children were happy and seemingly content. We never felt uncomfortable or patronizing – and it was in every way a very authentic, honest experience.

On our last day in the Delta, I edited a few photographs and then went for a 5-mile run at a nice
pace along the Indian Ocean shoreline with the tide coming in. Definitely a rave run! We enjoyed a
great brunch at 1000A including fresh fruit, porridge, sweet rolls, muesli, toast, and for the omnivores
eggs to order with sausage, bacon etc. If you could manage, there were some beans and a mixed
green salad as well.

That afternoon, we took a 45-minute flight from Malindi to Nairobi. That was after some shopping in
Malindi (Shakir’s in old town is a good spot for kikois and kangas) and a light lunch at an Italian
restaurant. We arrived in Nairobi at 17h45 and got stuck in some horrendous traffic, finally getting to
our hotel – the Tribe – after 90 minutes of frustration. The Tribe is an impressive ultra-modern hotel
near the United Nations headquarters and the large US Embassy. The room wasn’t huge but perfectly
good with a shower, climate control, multi-channel HD TV and wireless internet.

A little later that evening, we enjoyed a superb dinner at the Lord Errol restaurant, where we
thanked our hosts Liberty Africa, said our goodbyes and started thinking about going home, or
going on to other parts of East Africa. The next day I would be heading up to Samburu in northern
Kenya for the first time.

PART 5: SAMBURU NATIONAL PARK

14 October 2010
I was up before 0530 this morning to check and respond to e-mails. As a result, no time for breakfast before having to head out to Wilson Airport to catch a Safarilink Cessna Caravan (just two passengers) via Nanyuki (40 minutes) to Samburu (20 minutes).

My room at Elephant Bedroom Camp on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River was large and comfortable, and I quite enjoyed the lounge and dining area which also overlooked the river. The area was extremely dry with several dead cows to be seen all around, as well as other dead mammals including the hardy Impala.

On the afternoon game drive, we saw large numbers of Reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Beisa Oryx, plenty of the fascinating gerenuk, impala, many dik-dik, a few elephant, and a couple of female lions. Despite the drought, the area was very productive.

Lunch on this day was most enjoyable – a pasta stirfry and salad, with fresh fruit salad for dessert. Dinner later on was perfect: ugali (the local maize polenta) with spinach, onion soup, and peach fritters.

This was the conclusion of a really amazing giraffe sighting when we followed a group of almost 30 giraffes including several youngsters. There are few sights quite as striking as a large group of Reticulated giraffe against the backdrop of the sun setting over the mountains.

While I was in the Samburu area, it started to rain heavily and the Uaso Nyiro River came down in a flood. At first it was just some light rain on the afternoon we arrived, but by evening heavy thunderstorms were rolling in. Eventually the area was totally soaked and as a result of similar rain falling elsewhere in the catchment area of the Uaso Nyiro River, it started to run very strongly. Amazingly, we could see the area becoming green just 2 days later; we were told that it gets noticeably green just 3 days after significant rain.

Yet another Samburu endemic is the striking Grevy’s Zebra. Their thin stripes and the absence of a ‘shadow’ effect give them a particularly elegant appearance.

The very morning after the first rains of the season had fallen, the game started to disperse and all the endemics which had been bunched together the previous day along the river, seemed to have disappeared. Our morning game drive started very very slowly but improved with a couple of good buffalo and elephant sightings, and a far-off (across the river) sighting of a cheetah. Ten minutes or so later, we came upon a couple of stationary minibuses observing a leopard in a tree. As we approached the scene, the leopard clambered down and walked to a nearby bush where it had left its impala kill.

The leopard then proceeded to wrestle and drag the dead impala a good 30 to 40 meters along the ground, disappearing into a gully. I fired off a quick few pics with mixed results, even so I was happy to be able to tick off leopard on my trip mammal list. Then it was back to the lodge for breakfast. With just two guests that morning, breakfast was a la carte and quite enjoyable. I had a fresh fruit platter, vegan pancakes with syrup, and a mixed plate with baked beans on toast, grilled tomato and sauteed potatoes. Nobody ever goes hungry on safari!

Samburu is known for some pretty reliable leopard sightings and it did not disappoint, this particular leopard had just jumped down from a tree and was on its way to drag its prey into a nearby donga.

While in the area, I spent a night at Intrepids Samburu Camp. This is a fairly large camp with 28 rooms, 14 on each side of the main lodge. I found the camp to be very comfortable and would really have liked to spend more time there. The tents are well-equipped with adequate lighting, seating, a separate toilet with door and a large shower. This is ‘luxury camping’ for sure. All the rooms have river views and there are few if any steps. Beds are of the 4-post type with effective mosquito netting, although there were no mosquitoes to speak of.

The food and catering at Samburu Intrepids was amongst the best of any of the camps on my trip. Dinner one evening was really fun in the company of a couple of Canadian ladies (Marly and Erica) and Jenny from Sydney, Australia. As is customary on safari, we talked about what we had each experienced thus far, and amongst others there was a rave review of Singita and a not-so-great report about the food at Chobe Game Lodge. My dinner entree of risotto with a tomato-based sauce was excellent, as was the butternut squash starter and fresh fruit dessert.

By 1140A on 16 October I was on my way back to Nairobi, to meet my Origins Safaris guide for a road trip to the Lake Nakuru area, in the heart of Kenya’s Rift Valley.

PART 6: KENYA’S RIFT VALLEY

Oct 16 2009
There was a light drizzle when my Origins Safaris guide Stanley Kariithi and I got underway on the 2hr+ road trip to Lake Naivasha. The Nairobi-Nakuru highway is generally in excellent condition, the same however cannot be said of the road behavior. Stanley displayed immense patience with the reckless driving of the matatu drivers who passed other vehicles with seemingly no regard for their own or their passengers’ safety.

This is one of the reasons why we don’t recommend road trips and more specifically, self-driving. Even so, due to the good condition of the road, this particular trip is manageable and I certainly enjoyed some beautiful vistas over parts of the Rift Valley, en route. It was also an interesting experience to observe the terrain and activities along the roadway. Just outside of Nairobi there are roadside stalls selling everything under the sun, from cooked food to live chickens, furniture and clothing.

By late afternoon, we arrived at Loldia House, a well-known guest house dating back to the 1920’s.
The setting and the grounds, with stunning views over Lake Naivasha, are superb. Right around the lodge there are some massive trees and the birdlife is excellent. I was also surprised to see a variety
of mammals in close proximity to the lodge, including wildebeest, zebra and lots of buffalo.

My room (#1) at Loldia House, in the main original house, has excellent views over the gardens and
the lake itself. However the room and especially the bathroom (which has a bath and shower) can
do with an update and refurbishment. I was very happy to find a wireless internet connection in my
room and spent a couple of hours later that night updating e-mail.

Dinner was at the large table in the dining room, with Loldia House Manager Peter Njoroge serving
as the host. Peter was very gracious and personable, not to mention witty! It wasn’t long before he
was teaching me several new Swahili words and phrases. My main course was wholesome and filling,
but really nothing special – a mix of some vegetables and rice. The appetizer was a much
more interesting vegetarian ‘cutlet’ which was very tasty. Dessert consisted of fresh fruit, amongst
the best of any I had experienced on the Kenya trip to date.

October 17 2009
I was up fairly early for a 4-mile run with Bernard, one of the Loldia personnel, all along the perimeter of the game area. It was quite hilly and fairly strenuous, but I enjoyed every second which we spent on the trail. After all, I was running in the Rift Valley, the birthplace of most of Kenya’s famous long-distance runners!

Then it was time for breakfast, which consisted of more fruit, some toast, pancakes and porridge,
known as uji in Swahili. Thanks, Peter! Peter then showed me around the rest of the Loldia House
property, consisting of several separate cottages and a family house with 3 rooms, 2 of which have
en suite bathrooms. It is ideal for a family or two couples traveling together.

Stanley and I then set off by road for the 2hr drive to Lake Nakuru, where I would overnight at Mbweha
Camp, a lodge consisting of a large thatched lounge, bar and dining area with a central fireplace
and 10 rustic thatched rock cabins with en suite shower and toilet and solar lighting.

The lodge lounge and dining room area is quite nice, just a little ‘smoky’ because of the indoor fireplace.
The food was good and varied, if somewhat ambitious at times.

October 18 2009
There was no water in the faucets or shower in my room this morning. The previous night I had found out that there was no bedside lamp or light switch in the room. Very annoying to have to get up and switch off the light just when you’re dozing off… I am not wildly enthusiastic about this camp but my stay was so short, it is really unfair to judge it. Compared with some other Lake Nakuru accommodation options, it is quite small with a high level of personal service which is always a big plus in my book. The property just needs a little bit more ‘polish’. I think two nights there would be good in order to take a couple of game drives into Lake Nakuru National Park and to enjoy some of the other lodge activities such as a night drive and walking.

Lake Nakuru National Park is well-known for its rhino, and within minutes of entering the park we spotted this white rhino not far from the shoreline.

During an afternoon drive into Lake Nakuru National Park, we did a site inspection of Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. This very large (100+ rooms) but well managed facility offers comfortable accommodation in an excellent location overlooking the lake. All meals are buffet-style with an extensive menu including several vegetarian options. The standard rooms are on the small side but adequate for a couple. The suites are much more spacious and certainly a recommended choice.

On a game drive along the shores of Lake Nakuru this afternoon, we saw lots of buffalo, plains zebra, impala, Thomson’s Gazelles, Defassa Waterbuck, warthhog and notably several white rhino, also 4 black and white Colobus monkeys, a life mammal for yours truly. We had some good views of a few Rothschild’s Giraffe, which was also a life mammal! Nice going.

On October 19 (morning) we took another game drive to Lake Nakuru. In the early morning the light is better for photographs of the thousands of Lesser and Greater Flamingo for which the lake is famous. There was a good concentration of several thousand birds in the South-eastern corner of the lake, and I made quite a few exposures. Like the previous day, we saw lots of buffalo and other wildlife and several white rhino, one with a very young calf.

By midday on Oct 19 we drove back to Loldia House/Naivasha airstrip, where I said goodbye to Stanley. He was an ideal guide: knowledgeable, friendly and a professional through and through. It is good to know that my Origins Safaris clients are in the hands of people like Stanley Kariithi and his colleagues. Soon enough we were airborne and embarking on the last leg of this great African adventure. I would be returning to the Maasai for two more days!

PART 7: BACK TO THE MARA ONE MORE TIME

Oct 18 2009
The flight from Lake Naivasha to the Maasai Mara in a DeHavilland Otter was fairly quick and not too bumpy, considering the intermittent rain and thunderstorms which we encountered en route. Our plane touched down at Ol Kiombo airstrip at 4:00P where I was picked up and then just a few minutes later, transferred to a game drive vehicle. The two other guests that afternoon were Bill from Zurich and Jason from Minneapolis-St. Paul.

It wasn’t long before we saw several game drive vehicles along a hillside in the distance. “Must be
Shakira,” said our guide Dennis and after a 10-minute drive to the spot, his prediction turned out to
be correct. There was Shakira (with her three subadult young) which I had seen and photographed
in the Mara just slightly more than a week earlier. She was clearly on the hunt, very alert and
checking out a herd of Thomson’s Gazelles which were nervously gathered on a nearby hillside.
When one of Shakira’s cubs took an exploratory short run towards the Tommies, they promptly
scattered with several of them bouncing right past us, on our left.

Abandoning the attempt, the 4 cheetah then advanced towards us, walking right by the vehicle, before
sitting down again to plot another hunting attempts.

October 19
Our game drive this morning was fantastic with great views of elephants, eland, giraffe and two sightings of lions, one on a fresh kill (two wildebeest) and the other one a lioness with 2 young cubs.

Mara Explorer Camp makes a great first impression. It is small and quiet and nothing like Mara Intrepids. The rooms are large, well-appointed tents – 7 doubles and 3 twins. The camp has a beautiful lounge and dining room, very much reminiscent of some of the Botswana tented camps. In terms of the quality of the camp, I would rank it somewhere in-between Wilderness Safaris’ nicer classic camps and their premier camps such as Vumbura Plains. Mara Explorer has a high level of privacy, and there is a radio in each tent to communicate with the camp for example to request an escort to the dining area. Several of our regular clients return to Mara Explorer Camp year after year, and it is easy to see why.

After the inspection visit to Mara Explorer Camp, it was on to Governor’s Camp in the Musiara Swamp area of the Mara. It is a rather large camp sleeping about 72 persons in 36 tents. The tents are basic Meru-style erected on a concrete/slasto base with small front entrance verandah. There is very little privacy in the camp with many of the tents only being 30 to 45 feet apart. The tents have zippers for a front entrance as well as zippers between the main portion of the tent and the ensuite bathroom (toilet, bidet and shower). Zippers are at best annoying, often downright frustrating. I think any safari camp would be well-advised to replace front door zippers with real doors.

Governors gets high marks for lunch: they had a special vegan meal (baked potato, a superb yellow lentil stew and stir-fried snow peas and carrots) delivered to my table. Lunch is served outside, under some large trees along the Mara River. One other thing bothered me slightly, which was the amount of aircraft noise due to the proximity of the Musiara airstrip.

Il Moran is a small upscale camp with 10 private (well spaced) tents all facing the Mara River. The spacious tents with massive double beds have deluxe fittings, generator-supplied electricity and it guarantees a maximum of 4 persons to a vehicle on game drives.

From Il Moran, it was a short drive to Little Governors, where camp manager Colin showed me around. The camp consists of 17 tents in a half circle overlooking what is ordinarily a huge swamp, but (then) a rapidly drying, rather dessicated ‘wetland’ if one could call it that.

When the area is not in the midst of a long drought, I am sure that Little Governor’s is a great camp – it had an intimate, relaxed feel to it. Importantly, guests are transported to the camp by boat across the Mara River on arrival, which involves negotation about 30 or 40 very steep steps on each side of the river. Guests also have to walk down and up the steps each time they take a game drive.

Despite its size and age (showing a bit of wear), Governor’s Camp clearly stands out due to its game-viewing, which was nothing short of phenomenal. On just a very short game drive, in the early afternoon – certainly not the most productive time of the day – we drove past hundreds of animals of a dizzying variety of species including elephant, buffalo, hippo, topi, wildebeest, zebra, Thomson’s Gazelles, Grant’s Gazelles, impala, reedbuck, waterbuck, banded mongoose and an couple of others which I might have missed.

There was a long row of wildebeest walking in near single file, seemingly headed for a Mara River crossing point, en route to Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains. It was a quintessential African scene: animals following some unwritten script, navigating an uncharted map yet the vast majority of them making their way safely to better pastures.

Dinner on my last night in Kenya was exactly as requested: some freshly made ugali with a side of traditionally prepared spinach, and some baked beans. Couldn’t have been any better!

However, there was one more game drive to follow and it was a doozy, with lions taking pride of place, no pun intended. First we spotted a few females, but our attention quickly shifted to three young males chasing off a hyena. Bu the time we arrived on the scene, the hyena was beating a hasty retreat. I later learned that the lions had actually landed a few blows, but the hyena escaped with its life.

From that point, we drove around the northern edge of the Musiara Swamp to a muddy reedbed where 3 young female lions were busy devouring a warthog which they had just killed. They were all members of the huge Musiara Pride, very aptly named as they were literally wallowing in the marsh, their legs eventually covered with mud.

Not long afterwards, the young males walked around the southern edge of the marsh and approached the females. There was a lot of growling, posturing and some dominant behavior, before the lions settled down.

We returned to camp in good spirits, improved even further when I got a couple of useful photographs of a Schalow’s Turaco (life bird) and Ross Turaco (seen for the first time in Zambia in August).

Soon afterwards, the long journey back started: Musiara Airstrip to Nairobi, Nairobi to Dubai and then finally Dubai direct to Houston. The 45-minute flight to Nairobi was uneventful, although it departed from Kichwa Tembo and not Musiara, so I had to make the trip across the Mara River one more time, to Little Governors and then by road to Kichwa Tembo.

Once back in Nairobi I took it easy for a couple of hours in a dayroom at the Panari Hotel, took a long hot bath, ‘enjoyed’ a perfectly awful lunch at Al Pasha restaurant and then headed off to the airport. The flights back from there were long but smooth, pampered all the way in a business class seat on Emirates. As flying goes, it doesn’t get much better than that. The only sour note: some guy from Oklahoma snoring non-stop for about 9 hours on the flight from Dubai to Houston.

The final word on Kenya? A fantastic wildlife experience: nowhere else in the world will you see such a variety and abundance of wildlife and culture in one country. The variety and density of wildlife species – all over the northern Maasai Mara – and particularly in the Intrepids area (Talek River), Musiara Swamp and North Mara Conservancy, was downright astonishing.

Yes Kenya has many problems which I won’t dwell on here (we touched on those in the introductory
portion of this report). In the long run no doubt the country will have severe problems with
habitat loss due to unfettered population growth and resultant human encroachment in wildlife areas.
This last season was an abnormal one due to the pervasive drought, but the high numbers of
Maasai cattle in all the wildlife areas were all too visible. This type of concession (it is ok to bring
huge numbers of cattle into national parks) is understandable but at the same time an ominous
sign for the future. Of course the lives and livelihood of humans have to take precedence over
wildlife, but maybe someone should start asking questions about the cattle. Do the Maasai really
have to have so many cattle? It seems to be all about the numbers and not the quality.

As for mass tourism, it need not spoil anyone’s enjoyment of a Kenyan safari. Yes there will be 6
or 7 vehicles jockeying for position around a predator sighting, every now and then but certainly
not everywhere. Select the right camps and areas, and travel only with a private car and guide, and
you can keep any ‘crowd’ experiences to a minimum. Nobody expects to be all by him or herself
at the Smithsonian’s Air and Space Museum in August. Likewise, it is unrealistic to expect to enjoy
the world’s greatest wildlife spectacle all on your own.

Some of the roads are poor, the matatu drivers are a menace and Nairobi traffic is a bear. If you
are prepared to overlook these issues, and ready to embrace the many delightful surprises which
await you on safari, go soon. Spend enough time in the Mara and you will see lots of lions, and
much else besides! Learn a few Swahili phrases (it’s easy!) and experience friendliness like never before
in your life. Even with plain old English, and a couple of ‘jambo’s’ and ‘asante’s’ mixed in here
and there, you will have an amazing time.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Kenya & Rwanda 2019:

Masai Mara, Little Governor’s Camp, Volcanoes National Park, Nyungwe & Akagera

Part 1: Traveling with Kenyan Airways, non-stop JFK to NBO

Board a nonstop overnight flight from New York City to Nairobi on Kenyan Airways, add a short charter flight to the Masai Mara the following morning, and you can be on safari that afternoon. Leaving behind the concrete jungle and stepping onto the African savanna in less than the time it takes to drive across Texas. Watching wildebeest moving over the open plains instead of automobiles clogging a freeway. Hearing birdsong – not noise. Clean air and beautiful sunsets, stars like you may never have seen them before. Plus of course lions, giraffes, elephants, hundreds or even thousands of wildebeest and many other animals and birds. Africa just like you imagined it.

That’s exactly what we did recently:  flew non-stop from JFK to Nairobi on the inaugural Kenyan Airways flight, a break-through for tourism to Kenya and East Africa.  Getting from the USA to East Africa used to take at least 20 hours, with an unavoidable stop-over in Europe, the Middle East or Johannesburg.  No more.  We left JFK at around 1:00pm on a Monday, spent approximately 13-hours aloft in a comfortable Boeing Dreamliner, and deplaned at Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport the next morning just after 9:00am.

Could my economy class seat have been softer with more legroom?  Of course.  Were the in-flight meals something to write home about?  Of course not.  To be sure, we did enjoy a great send-off in New York and an equally rousing reception in Nairobi.  Don’t expect that on your non-inaugural flight – but hopefully you’ll get the same friendly in-flight service.  

We spent a few fun hours in Nairobi feeding and posing with the amenable Rothschild’s Giraffes at the Giraffe Center and then getting fed ourselves: a tasty protein over-load at the Carnivore Restaurant.  From there it was a short drive to Wilson Airport, some happily minimal formalities (luggage check, boarding pass) and then it was up and away in a Cessna Caravan belonging to Governor’s Aviation.

Part 2: The Masai Mara and Little Governor’s Camp

Less than an hour later we were on the ground in the Masai Mara, marveling at the sight of hundreds of wildebeest scattered in small groups, in practically every direction. It immediately became obvious why the ‘migration’ was still in the Mara:  it was wet and there was abundant fresh grass everywhere. Clearly quite a bit of rain had fallen over the preceding few days and more would fall while we were there. All good though, as it had minimal impact on our stay.  

The Mara being the Mara, the game-viewing was predictably good, with fantastic views of seven lions including three young males just coming into their prime.  The lions were active, and any photographer would have been more than happy to see and capture them in the soft light.  

Naturally there were many other species present as well, including plenty of Topi, Thompson’s Gazelles, Plains Zebra, eland, elephants, buffalo, warthog and impala and some impressive birds.  On the second day in the area we saw some more lions, a lot more wildebeest and we witnessed a simply amazing scene of what appeared to be dozens of giant Nile crocodiles converging on the remains of a wildebeest, creating a vortex of furious twisting and turning as they jammed together, ripping away at the rapidly disappearing carcass.  It only lasted a few minutes, and we were too far to get a decent photograph, but it was one of those ‘once in a life-time’ experiences that will remain vivid in our memories.

On a subsequent game drive, we saw a different lioness with two cubs, and we had great views of a large buffalo herd in excess of 300 strong.  Plus of course many more (thousands) of wildebeest with zebra mixed in, here and there. Even though the duration of our stay was quite short, the experience once again demonstrated just how consistently good the game-viewing is in the Masai Mara, year-round.  This is the spot to choose for your first, or only, or umpteenth safari. Did we miss anything in particular? Maybe cheetah, usually a Mara regular. However, we knew that they were in the area and had been seen just prior to our arrival. For our clients, we would recommend 3- or 4-nights total in the area, which would provide ample opportunities to find pretty much everything, without a great rush.

We would spend two nights at Little Governor’s Camp in a comfortable tented room, 17 of which are tucked into the edge of a forest, overlooking a natural swamp, often frequented by animals and birds, ranging from hippos to giraffes, elephants and even the occasional rhino.  The polished wooden deck in front of the tents is an ideal spot to observe the action or simply to chill and enjoy the serenity of this vehicle-free area.  

Meals and all-round hospitality at Little Governors were superb.  The food was tasty, fresh and expertly prepared. Good selection/choices for breakfast and the dinner on the first night was excellent.  Plus points for the Little Governors room included effective charging facilities. Not so good? The lighting. Adequate but not great. And totally not up to scratch was the WiFi which was glacially slow.  

Access into Little Governors is by boat (a brief ferry-like trip across a narrow part of the Mara River) and then on foot through a patch of riverine forest.  Steps? Yes, there are quite a few of them leading down from the vehicle parking area into the river gorge and more on the other side going up. Some may find the down, across, up and reverse/repeat procedure to be mildly tedious by day 3 or so but let’s face it, on safari we can all do with a bit of exercise.   For guests who have serious mobility issues there is an option to be driven to Little Governors Camp, by way of a bridge over the Mara River.  

On our second day in the area, we had a look at the newly refurbished Il Moran Camp, and enjoyed lunch at Governor’s Camp.  Governors is an ideal family safari choice, offering great value for money.  In the evening our small group were guests at a spectacular bush dinner, complete with Masai dancing and an enviable spread from the Governors Mobile Kitchen.  The Mongolian stir-fry spread had seemingly endless choices with chicken, beef, pork and vegetarian options with rice noodles, mushrooms, bell pepper, hot peppers, fresh ginger, garlic onions and more.  Plus, several delicious dessert options.

Our Governors Camp trip came to an end with an enjoyable breakfast at Governors Private Camp – beautiful grounds and an ideal setting on the edge of the Masai Mara.  Using this property on an exclusive base is affordable for even smaller groups as long as the bed-night count reaches 12 or more.  For example, 4 persons for 3 nights.  

By that afternoon, after the flight back from the Mara, we enjoyed a late lunch at Talisman Restaurant and then went on to JKIA for the 1-hour flight to Kigali.  It was a bit of an ordeal getting out of Kenya, with the final immigration clearance process taking at least 20 minutes due to a malfunctioning passport scanner.

Part 3: Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge

From Kigali Airport it took about 40 minutes to get to Heaven Retreat, the small luxury lodge which would be our home for the night.  It was a comfortable and stylish spot, made all the more special with a superb dinner at Heaven Restaurant.  The next day we enjoyed an early morning run, a Kigali city tour (including the Genocide Museum for some members of the party who had not previously seen it).  Then it was off to Rwanda’s Northern Province, a drive of about 3 hours, with a stop-over in Musanze en route.  It was rainy and rather cold, which set the tone for the next few days.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge offered a friendly and exceedingly comfortable respite for the following couple of days.  The lodge main area and room interiors had been spruced up since my first visit in 2008, but I was happy to see that it had lost none of its charm and gracious hospitality.  Sabyinyo Silverback still felt ‘just right’ for its environment and totally in keeping with the gorilla experience in its broadest sense.  The rooms are comfortable and nicely appointed with lots of space, a nice fireplace (it gets cold at night at 8,500 ft asl), a tub, and lots of privacy.  The food was consistently excellent and above all the staff and management were beyond friendly and efficient.

We were happy to see that Sabyinyo was in the process of constructing a pathway to improve access to the lodge from the parking area below.  Up to now, the walk which involves almost 180 steps, has been rather challenging for individuals with mobility issues.

Part 4: Gorilla Trek at Volcanoes National Park

The big day had dawned.  Our gorilla trek event commenced with a gentle wake-up knock at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge. Our butler Peter handed over a small tray with coffee, tea and hot milk.  It was 6:00 a.m.  By 6:30 a.m. we were sitting down for a hotel breakfast with an array of buffet items, as well as eggs to order.

Down the 180 steps to the parking area, and off on a short 10-minute drive to the Volcanoes National Park Headquarters, where we spent 20 minutes or so standing and sitting around and enjoying a cup of Rwandan tea or coffee, while permits were being checked.  Then it was time for a briefing by our guide Eugene.  We were to visit the Kwitonda family of gorillas, which happened to be the biggest group in the area, with 34 individuals.  Babies, juveniles, sub-adults, adults and silverbacks.

Leaving at just after 0800 a.m., we walked on an easy trail along a gentle slope with nothing more than a few rocks to slow us down.  A kilometer or so along the track, we crossed over a bridge, at the entrance to the forest.  By 1015 a.m. we had located the gorillas and the hour-long magic ensued.

When we first saw them, the Kwitonda family group – we would end up seeing about 15 to 17 individuals – were gathered in a clearing in the forest.  For the better part of an hour we observed them feeding, playing, resting – and resting some more.  A couple of youngsters were gamboling around, tumbling, jumping, chest-thumping and climbing onto high spots, playing ‘king of the castle’.

A female was nursing her baby, yet another female was cradling her 3-month old baby protectively, and the #2 silverback male was in a pensive mood, posing for a series of ‘selfies’ with excited visitors positioning themselves between a camera and the gorilla, for the obligatory Facebook or Instagram pic.

As the hour slipped by all too quickly, we watched this ‘slice of ‘ life’ portion of a day in the life of a gorilla family’ daily existence, in awe and fascination.  It was easy to imagine that almost all of their days in this beautiful sanctuary were spent in the same bucolic fashion, surrounded by family members while enjoying tasty bamboo shoots, as well as leaves, stems and fruits of many other plant species.

It was all perfectly clear, to see why these stunning animals are as universally revered and sought after as they area.  They are undeniably at the pinnacle of the animal world, the very embodiment of the most special thing that can be lost, if global wildlife conservation attempts fail.

At least for the mountain gorilla prospects are good, for now.  Their numbers have increased by 26% since 2010.  Furthermore, there are plans in place to extend the size of Volcanoes National park – home to these striking animals – by up to 23% over the next few years.

Our party of 8 visitors from the USA had hiked up the slopes to spend a little time with the Kwitonda gorilla group, the largest of the 12 gorilla families in the area.  Concurrently there were 8 or 9 other visitor parties of up to eight persons hiking elsewhere in the park, observing other gorilla groups such as Sabyinyo, Bwenge, Susa, Karisimbi, Agashya, Hirwa, Ugenda, Umubano, Amahoro, and Titus.

This happens day in and day out, year-round, with visitors contributing as much as US$19.2 million in 2018 alone, towards the conservation of the Mountain Gorilla.

Here is the worrisome thing about being in the Volcanoes National Park, or at any of the major lodges in the area:  you can hear people from almost anywhere.  From outside your room at Sabyinyo Silverback, at Bisate, even while observing the Kwitonda gorilla family.  As I said to the manager of Wilderness Safaris’ Bisate Lodge, in terms of wildlife survival, having people living within earshot is like being inside a grass hut and hearing a fire popping not too far off.  The greatest threat to all wildlife anywhere in the world is habitat loss, an unavoidable consequence of human population expansion and intrusion into the wilderness.

A few gorilla trekking hints courtesy of Wild Frontiers:

• A 7 meter (21 feet) distance should be observed at all times from the gorillas; the further back you are, the more relaxed the group will be.
• Always keep your voices down. However, it is okay to ask the guide questions. Do not smoke, drink or eat when you are near the gorillas as this might inevitably increase the risk of food/drink droplets falling and increase the risk of transmission of diseases.
• Flash photography is not permitted – when taking pictures move slowly and carefully.
• Do not touch the gorillas – they are wild animals.

Tipping for the gorilla trek?  Yes of course.  As follows:  Each of the two porters:  $20 each.  For all four of the trackers, $20 to share.  For the guide, $20 to $30 per person.

The following morning, we were the guests at a memorable anniversary, celebrating the 10-year existence of Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge and its association with SACOLA.  The Governors Camp Collection operates Sabyinyo which is owned by the Sabyinyo Community Livelihoods Association (or SACOLA), consisting of members from the surrounding communities. Through the SACOLA trust, Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge has delivered more than US $3.3 million in revenue since 2006.

SACOLA now reaches over 5,800 households in the villages outside Volcanoes National Park. For many people displaced by the Rwandan genocide in the early 1990s, the struggle to rebuild has forced them to exploit the natural resources for subsistence. With income from the SACOLA trust via the Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, the economic pressures to clear forest for small farms or hunt bushmeat for local markets are lessening.  In this way sustainable tourism enterprises like Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge are playing an important role in protecting and safeguarding the mountain gorillas and other wildlife of Volcanoes National Park.

Part 5: Bisate Lodge

On a recent visit, we found Bisate to be every bit as good as advertised.  Nothing about this unique property was a let-down.  It is small and intimate with only 6 villas; great for getting everybody in camp together in front of the fireplace, before dinner.   The design features are amazing, and we loved the room:  ideal size & lay-out and the double-sided fireplace was super effective.  The dome-like shapes work beautifully, with nothing jarring, nothing out of place.  Lighting was excellent.  Overall the room was super comfortable and cozy in the chilly climate.  Food & all-round hospitality were excellent too; I enjoyed chatting with the young lodge manager who was very forthcoming and relaxed. 

The community walk/tree planting ceremony with local guide Aline Umutoni (who happens to be a good birder) was a highlight for both my wife and me.  To be sure, there are many steps around the lodge.  I don’t think it will be much of an issue for most people, but for guests who have mobility issues it might very well be.  The work that is being done to rehabilitate the hill & surrounding area is amazing and very visible, already.

Part 6: Hiking Bisoke Crater

Many visitors to the 5 Volcanoes areas are intrigued by the prospect of hiking up one of the craters.  As was I.  Bisoke seemed like the obvious choice with supposedly ‘the best’ views of any of the crater hikes.  Under good to ideal conditions the hike would be fun and mildly challenging.  It traverses a steep path which ascends to about 3317 meters (12,200 feet), through a beautiful tropical forest.  This first half of the hike was muddier than I anticipated, but we made decent progress up to a spot called ‘the beach’.  From there right to the summit, the hike was exceedingly difficult due to a significant amount of rain having fallen in the few days prior.  Conditions could not have been much worse, with more than a foot of mud in many areas, making each step treacherous.  Six hikers started and five made it to the top.  They were all young, fit and experienced hikers.  And without exception, they complained about the conditions of the trail, to the point of saying that it was dangerous and that a slight misstep could lead to a twisted ankle – or worse.

In the end, we all made it to the top and down in one piece.  Unfortunately, the allegedly spectacular views from the top were obscured by mist and fog, but it was satisfying to have reached the crater lake at around 12,000 feet.  We stood on the rim for quite a while donning heavy jackets to ward off the cold wind whipping across the crater edge.

The way down was a 3-hour challenge of perseverance and strength with everyone’s legs tested to the limits.  The porters were invaluable for their assistance and I for one, would not have made it without the assistance of a porter.  No way.  Should you attempt the Bisoke Crater hike?  Perhaps yes, but then only when the trail is dry.  This is not a wet season activity and should be avoided completely during or just after any heavy rain.  It becomes an uneven, muddy quagmire – no fun at all!

Even so, if you are up to a significant physical challenge, pay your $75 permit fee for the Bisoke trail and give it a go. You’ll gain a considerable measure of respect from the locals, in addition to the sense of achievement and self-satisfaction gained by completing such a tough hike.

Be sure to hire a porter, wear sturdy hiking boots (waterproof or close to it), take plenty of water and try to schedule the hike once you are acclimated to the higher elevation of northern Rwanda.

Part 6: Virunga Lodge

We spent the night at the Virunga lodge, a luxury 12 room lodge with jaw dropping views of the twin Lakes of Ruhondo and Bulera. At any time of the day, but particularly at sunrise, the views from the lodge are simply spectacular. Depending on the vantage point, one can see anywhere from three to all five the surrounding volcanoes namely Sabyinyo, Bisoke, Gahinga, Karisimbe and Mikeno. 

The rooms at Virunga are large with a separate lounge and fireplace, a good-sized bedroom, plenty of space to store luggage, and a separate shower and toilet.

The lighting can be better; it was difficult to see one’s clothing to be able to make choices in the morning, or for packing.  The showerhead and water pressure could be better too.

Dinner and breakfast were fine, if not spectacular. Virunga Lodge is about an hour’s drive to Musanze and from the Volcanoes National Park HQ, where the early morning pre-trek briefings take place.  So instead of getting up at six or 6:30 AM, you’ll be up at five or 5:30 AM. It is a bumpy ride from the Lodge to the main road, smooth from there all the way to the Headquarters.

Part 7: Golden Monkey Trek

Our last day in the Volcanoes National Park area was spent trekking golden monkeys. Compared with my earlier golden monkey trek some years ago, this one was infinitely better with pretty much unlimited scope and opportunities for the best golden monkey photos ever. Plus of course an unrivaled opportunity to observe the golden monkeys’ behavior. We watched them feed on the ground, in the trees, and pulling apart emerging bamboo shoots to get at the sweet, juicy core. There was a female golden monkey with a tiny baby clinging to her chest, peering at us inquisitively. There were youngsters mock fighting, juveniles and adults performing prodigious jumps, large males slowly making their way around.  Even though the light conditions were sub optimal, I did manage to get a few decent shots of the golden monkeys, one of eastern Africa’s prettiest primates.

An hour later we trekked back through the dense montane forest, through a prominent bamboo thicket with signs of buffalo all too evident, across the stone wall demarcating the park perimeter and back to our parking spot.

Part 8: Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel

From there it was a short drive back to Musanze, where we spent the night at the Five Volcanoes boutique hotel. This nine-roomed hotel is a great choice for a moderately priced property with easy access to the gorillas, and without all the steps of some of the luxury options. Our deluxe room was quite spacious and well lit, with a separate bathroom with a good shower and toilet. With a TV (multiple channel options), tea and coffee making facilities (be sure to ask for milk) the room was a good spot to rest up after a strenuous hike.

While compact, the grounds and gardens were pleasant and leafy, with lots of birds around. The Five Volcanoes hotel also has a VIP suite for exclusive use and a family cottage. The nearby Volcano Manor is a luxury residence for a group of 10 to 15 persons, sharing five bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, office room, living room, outside bar and lounge, complete with swimming pool, jacuzzi, and tennis court.

Dinner at Five Volcanoes was better than anticipated.  The rather uninspiring menu – something was clearly lost in translation – did not come close to describing the well-prepared local dishes.  My fish entree was a keeper: subtly perfumed with a spice mix, but not overpoweringly so and with good texture and degree of doneness. Kathy had a vegetable korma which was served with aromatic rice.  The stew was a bit heavy on peas, but otherwise quite tasty. Side dishes included boiled potatoes, a staple food in Rwanda, and carrots.

Breakfast the next morning was perfectly fine as well.  Star of the show was some nicely done omelets with toast; there was a limited number of buffet choices including muffins, pancakes, fruit etc.

Our next stop – Nyungwe Forest – was a long drive away – about six hours to be exact. It is possible to shorten this journey considerably by flying from Kigali to Kamembe and to then drive around 40 minutes to Nyungwe.  This time around I wanted to make the drive along Rwanda’s Route 1 along the western border with the Democratic Republic of Congo which is mostly formed by the huge Lake Kivu.

It took the better part of 90 minutes or so from Musanze before we had our first glimpse of the lake, beautifully framed by the lush green hills and patches of floodplain.

Part 9: Driving in Rwanda

We found the roads in Rwanda to be generally first class, with mostly smooth asphalt surfaces in good all-round condition.

Keep in mind that almost all the roads are exceedingly winding and you are constantly driving either downhill or uphill. Due to these conditions – which make it difficult to pass slower vehicles – average speeds are low and it can easily take almost 2 hours to cover 100 km. Twice the duration of what we are used to in Texas and in many other parts of the USA. So, while driving in Rwanda is not at all boring due to the gorgeous scenery, one has to be vigilant at all times and be on the lookout for bikes, goats, lots of children – and even members of the armed forces on foot patrol.  

What you won’t see are lots of cars.  In fact, there are surprisingly few other vehicles on the road because private car ownership is a rare achievement in most of the rural areas.   Despite traffic being extremely light it is not without danger. We witnessed some unnecessary speeding and several incidents of ill-advised overtaking and other risky behavior. Rwanda road safety mortality is quite high by US standards.

Part 10: One & Only Nyungwe House

One and Only Nyungwe House is a strikingly designed lodge located right on the edge of a huge tea plantation overlooking a towering national forest – part of Nyungwe National Park – which has few rivals in East Africa as forests go.

This was my second trip to Nyungwe, and I was no less impressed with the natural beauty of the area this time around. The combination of tea plantations, hills, and beautiful vistas in each direction, is timeless if anything. It was even more breathtaking than the last time because the tea plantations were in full green and not cut down to the mid-level as the last time.  Picture perfect.  

Meals at One and Only were stellar, with chef Treasure Makwanise – who hails from Zimbabwe – turning out some superb main courses including grilled fillet of sea bass and pork belly, and his interpretation of some local dishes.  Ditto on the side dishes and desserts such as apple crumble with ice cream. Kathy enjoyed her $28 pink gin cocktail as well as a performance by local dancers and drummers and singers. If you’re looking to get in on the action, this is your opportunity to participate, so go for it! 

The following morning, we took a short birding outing with a local bird guide – Sam – and the excursion turned out be a lot more fun than I thought it would be.   Sam really knows the birds well and the area around the lodge was surprisingly ‘birdy’. We ended up with a bunch of great birds including several new life birds for both of us

Part 11: Akagera National Park

Our final two nights in Rwanda were spent at the beautiful and very scenic Akagera National Park, located in eastern Rwanda, along the border with Tanzania.  

We spent 2 nights in the park at Ruzizi in the south.  Our tent was comfortable and getting around was quite easy along the elevated boardwalk.  Having dinner at night overlooking the lake was fun and romantic, although we could have used more light there.  The food was good and nicely presented. Our afternoon boat outing from Ruzizi was excellent with the guide finding and pointing out several new life birds for us, in addition to a bunch of the more regular species including African Fish Eagles, various cormorants and darters, herons, kingfishers and weavers.  

What became quite clear right away, was that the northern part of Akagera is the place to be.  The roads in the south (maintenance an issue) were mostly through heavily over-grown bush and thickets with visibility a major problem.  We didn’t see much in the way of animals there.  

That changed quickly once we got about halfway up to the north, with the terrain opening nicely with great visibility in every direction.  We saw tons of antelope there as well as buffalo and giraffes everywhere.  No elephants though, but there are at least two good-sized herds of elephants in the park.  I think with a 3-night stay most visitors should be happy with the diversity and quality of the viewing.  To be sure, it is not a Masai Mara experience.  But of course, it is also not the Mara in terms of congestion & presence of other vehicles.  Very few, thankfully!  The place is incredibly beautiful (scenic) – and very different from anything I’ve seen elsewhere.  

We visited the site for Wilderness Safaris’ Magashi Tented Camp which was then under construction.  It has subsequently opened, and we have already received excellent feedback from guests who have spent some time there.  Among others they saw lions and leopards – and good general plains game.  

We did see some tsetse flies in Akagera and I got one bite, but to be sure, it was much worse in the south, in the more heavily forested areas.  I checked with Wilderness Safaris and they do not think that it will be an issue in the cool/dry season.  Plus, they are putting out tsetse fly traps and taking the necessary steps to combat it.  Even so I think it would be a good idea to keep it in mind in terms of having long-sleeved shirt(s) and good protective socks (for the ankles) as well as perhaps a scarf for your head.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Kenya Trip Report – February 2018

Part 1: Introduction & Tawi Lodge, Amboseli

One cancelled trip later – thanks or rather no thanks to Hurricane Harvey – I found myself back in Kenya in early February.

Every time I return to Kenya I grow fonder of the place. Kenya is like your favorite leather jacket. It may have a couple of rough patches on the elbows but it feels more comfortable every time you wear it. Dependable, great value, a little dated but one of the best investments you’ve ever made.

Is Kenya the best overall safari destination in every respect? Maybe not – but it is certainly the best one for a first safari. Year-round and regardless of the status of the wildebeest migration, Kenya is a jewel. Friendly people, lots of animals and birds and all of them easily seen – with more diversity than any other safari destination or country. Venture out on your first game drive on the Masai Mara and marvel at the fact that you may be looking at six or seven mammal species all at the same time, or stare at the elephants seemingly posing between you and Mt Kilimanjaro in the background, at Amboseli. Your first view of a Reticulated Giraffe, or a Grevy’s Zebra, or ducking into the low entrance of a Samburu manyatta hut to be confronted with how little some people get by with. It is all astonishing, often life-enriching and almost always utterly fascinating.

Much improved roads – compared with a decade or two ago – also make it quite easy to get around Kenya by car.  But be careful though as road safety standards are likely not as high as where you come from.  Flying between areas in Kenya has always been relatively easy and the country likely has the best network and schedule of charter flights of any African safari destination.  And for the most part not outrageously priced either.

I’d be among the first to acknowledge Kenya’s shortcomings which are well known.  Corruption, poor governance, traffic congestion in Nairobi, pollution and seemingly unchecked population growth are among the chronic issues, some of them intractable.  Fortunately, few of these negatively impact a visitor’s experience.  Burgeoning population numbers create other issues such as over-grazing due to unrealistically high numbers of cattle and other livestock.  Hand in hand with that goes erosion, loss of habitat and growing incidence of human-animal conflict.

Even so, the long-term outlook is not all bad.  There are many positive things happening in Kenya in the conservation field.  Anti-poaching activities have been stepped up and there is increased focus on cooperation among safari operators, local government bodies and the people living in and around the wildlife areas.  There is a growing realization that unless the people themselves are invested in the well-being and survival of the large mammal species, the well-meaning efforts of outsiders, conservation groups and wildlife authorities often fail to produce the desired results.

The bottom line?  A well-planned Kenya safari, with the logistics in the hands of a competent destination management company like our long-time partners Origins Safaris, is an immensely satisfying and rewarding experience.  Add excellent guiding, the friendliest and warmest people you can imagine, an amazingly wide range of activities and habitat diversity and you have the supreme safari destination.

Discovering some of the areas of Kenya beyond the ‘usual suspects’ like the Masai Mara, the Rift Valley and Samburu has increased my admiration for the country even more.  On this most recent visit I was keen to explore two areas which I had not been to before, namely Meru National Park and the Mathews Range.  More about that to follow.  My first few days were spent back at Amboseli, at Tawi Lodge.

Tawi Logde, Amboseli
Third time was definitely the charm for me at Amboseli. I’m a huge fan of the park for reasons that become obvious pretty quickly once you get there. The elephants of course. Plus other wildlife – sometimes a lot more and a greater variety than you might expect. And the mountain: Kilimanjaro – often seen looming in the background in all its sky-piercing glory. Often, but not always. Over the years, I’ve caught some half-decent glimpses of Kilimanjaro – from Amboseli – but nothing like this time. This time I could see Kili from a rear seat in the Cessna Caravan charter flight, long before we landed at the Amboseli airstrip, having departed from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport about 50 minutes earlier. From just a speck on the horizon Kilimanjaro grew increasingly closer and more prominent until it totally dominated the skyline. The passengers in the window seats were getting even more excited than me. Lucky them: first timers and they get to see Kilimanjaro in all its glory. As it turned out Kilimanjaro remained clearly visible for the duration of my 2-night visit.

Tawi Lodge hit all the right notes from the accommodation to food & beverage and most importantly the guiding.  My extra-large brick and mortar room – with a tented entrance – was comfortable and inviting even though it could use a fan.  It did cool off nicely at night though.  Fittingly for a room as big, there was a large bath tub and a separate shower.  Plus, a king size bed with mosquito net and a fireplace.  The best feature of the camp was of course the views of Mt. Kilimanjaro from the exceptionally well-maintained and pleasant garden. Which is a great birding spot, by the way.  I also enjoyed seeing some animals come to the waterhole in front of camp; among these were eland, giraffe and elephant.  Tawi also has a large pool.  The food which was served plated was good and ample with plenty of choices:  usually a starter, a choice of two main courses and dessert.  Drinks were extra in my case but can be included in the rate.  The South African-born managing couple were around all the time and very approachable.

Activities at Tawi include camel-back riding which I did not get around to enjoy this time.  I did have time for a solid afternoon walk, turning around at a pleasant sundowner spot with – no surprise – more views of Kilimanjaro.  This time with a frosty Tusker beer in hand.  From this vantage point the soft, golden afternoon light turned Kilimanjaro into a beautiful painting, complete with a very prominent snowcap.  I was reminded of the saying that Tanzania has the mountain, but Kenya has the view.

My several game drives with Tawi head guide Pili Pili – he also goes by Julius – were superb in every way.  Julius knows Amboseli as well as anyone in the area, and demonstrated an uncanny ability to find animals and to predict and anticipate their movements.  The hallmark of a good, experienced guide.  As a result, I enjoyed numerous good opportunities to see and photograph lots of elephants with Kilimanjaro in the background.  Every keen Africa wildlife photographer’s dream!

What really surprised me about Amboseli this time was seeing such a wide variety and large numbers of other mammals:  wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, Boho reedbuck, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, warthog, hyena, gerenuk (on the Tawi private concession), hippo, countless birds, dik-dik, buffalo, lion and cheetah.  I think I should stop there for fear of creating the impression that Amboseli is the Mara.  it is not.  It is a relatively small reserve with a limited road network and spending two nights there is optimal.  You can experience the elephants in and around the swamps, hopefully get a nice view of Kilimanjaro, and with some luck see a good number of other animals, in the space of a couple of days at Amboseli.  If you are a super-keen photographer and just ‘have to’ get that once in a lifetime shot with a large mammal between you and the open mountain, then yes, a bit more time would be advisable.

Part 2: The Mathews Range, Kitich Forest Camp

After a brief stop-over in Nairobi, it was on to the north and more specifically the Mathews Range in the greater Samburu area.

In Nairobi I spent a pleasant afternoon and overnight at Karen Gables, a guest house a couple of doors down from Hemingways, the luxury boutique hotel.  Karen Gables is nothing like Hemingways though.  With only 6 rooms or so, it offers a ‘home-stay’ experience with the affable Dutch owner, his two young children and a couple of dogs around most of the time.  I very much enjoyed the large, comfortable room, excellent cooking (dinner and breakfast) and the pool.  The surrounding suburb is a good place to get a run in and I managed 10K passing the Kazuri bead factory and stopping short of the busy Langata Road.  My lungs reminded me that Nairobi is a mile-high city!

At the time of my visit, Kitich Forest Camp was a solid 2 hr 30-minute drive from Kalama Airstrip.  Currently, it is more easily accessible with a Cessna 206 based at Kalama, so that guests can hop over to camp or fly over to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary or further beyond on a scenic flight.  The Ngelai (Kitich) airstrip is about 45 minutes from camp.

By the end of my two-day stay at this intimate and personal camp which has only six tents, and having experienced the superb hosting of Emma Hedges and her wonderful team, I was reluctant to leave.  Set in a beautiful forest glade alongside and overlooking the Ngeng River, this low-key classic property is about as peaceful, remote and private a spot as one can find anywhere in Kenya.  The anti-Mara.  Located fairly high on the upper slopes of the Mathews Mountain Range, known ecologically as a ‘sky island’, Kitich Forest Camp is all about walking and exploring forest trails and crystal clear mountain streams.

On our first morning there, we set out on a 2-hour amble along the Ngeng River, a  clear mountain stream.  Resting up at a pretty natural rock pond (it’s ok to jump in!), we enjoyed the kind of solitude and peaceful environment becoming increasingly difficult to find anywhere else. But even here, in this seemingly idyllic setting, the world’s problems are not far away.  Climate change, which is widely held responsible for erratic rainfall, results in unusually long dry spells.  In the Mathews Range this leads to forest invasion and cutting down of trees to feed the vegetation to domestic animals such as goats.

On a subsequent outing, we went in a different direction – following the river upstream – concluding the walk with a delightful picnic lunch on the banks of the river.  While our walks were quite relaxed, we did come upon some elephants which gave us a look before they stomped away; we disturbed a leopard resting on a tree limb (it crashed into the thickets before we could eyeball it), we identified (thanks to fellow traveler Richard Turner) several interesting birds species, and we marveled at the profusion of butterflies.  Some of the notable ones to be found in the area include the endemic Noble Swallowtail, African Blue Tiger and Mocha Swallowtail (aka flying handkerchief).  The area boasts some 300 species of birds, 150 species of butterflies and of particular interest is an endemic giant cycad, a plant which dates back to and has hardly changed since the Permian, around 250 million years ago.  The one to be seen in the forest here is the Kenya Giant Cycad, encephelartos tegulaneus.

At night, the atmosphere at Kitich turns magical, and the glade is lit for guests to observe nocturnal visitors which may include leopard, elephant, bushbuck, and buffalo.   Kitich provides old fashioned safari comforts, including soft & fresh linen, comfortable double beds, iced drinks, and gracious dining.  I certainly enjoyed my comfortable tented room with bucket shower and indeed the food was delightful.   Among the highlights were marinated pork chops served with grilled potatoes and fresh vegetables.  The desserts were consistently excellent. Some of the staff have worked at Kitich for decades and it shows.  People encountered in the area are Samburu and Ndorobo, a semi-nomadic pastoralist community related to the Masai.  The camp relies on solar power and LED lighting.  Most of the staff are from the local community and fresh goods are mostly sourced locally.

Kitich Forest Camp offers a refreshing variation on the traditional safari in a part of Kenya which hasn’t changed for 30 years.  It is not a twice a day game drive camp and there is no mass tourism.  It is an uninhabited wilderness where you can do some proper walking, swim in the natural rock pools, enjoy a bush picnic, learn about birds & butterflies, discover ancient cycads and unwind by a log fire to the soothing sounds of chirping tree frogs.

At Kitich, you will feel at one with nature, a world away from the world.  It is serene, pristine – a hidden treasure.  Need a break from the relentless game drives and the clattering of other people’s camera shutters?  Spend a couple of days at Kitich and go on to Sarara or Samburu with your batteries recharged.

A few observations about the Kitich Forest
The special plants of the Mathews Range – the Encephelartos or cycad species – are unmistakable, odd looking palm-like plants. They are a primitive group of plants which flourished over 250 million years ago, concurrent with the dinosaurs. A few remaining species are found in tropical areas scattered all over the world including several countries in Africa. The cycads are the most characteristic plant of the Mathews Range, growing in dense forest and forest edges. They are highly endangered and their numbers are slowly dwindling due to habitat loss and pollination challenges.

Croton is the dominant tree at lower altitudes in the Mathews range forest.  Be on the lookout for the Wait-a-bit thorn, a shrub-like tree found in the bush and along forest edges; its nasty hooked thorns will definitely trip you up if you brush by too closely.

Of the wild fig trees there are eight species found around Kitich.  These trees start off as seeds carried in the belly of a  fruit-eating bird, deposited in leaf litter and then germinating in the axis of two branches.  They form roots which grow downward along the trunk of the tree until they reach the ground.  Once reaching the ground the wild fig starts to grow aggressively and in the process it often strangles and replaces the host tree.  Remnants of host tree are sometimes visible in holes in the fig tree, or sometimes it simply has a hollow inside.  Wild fig trees are an important source of food for fruit-eating bids such as touracos, as well as bats and other animals. They are a constant supply of food because they do not all fruit at the same time and at no time of the year is there a fig tree without some mature fruit.  Among the birds most frequently seen around wild fig trees are Hornbills, starlings, barbets and green pigeons.

PART 3: SARARA CAMP, NAMUNYAK CONSERVANCY

Sarara made a good first impression.  From its imposing main lodge there is a fantastic view over the Mathews Range.  Always a plus for any property which I visit?  Animals in camp on arrival.  This time, it was in the form of two large elephant bulls at the water hole below camp.  The remainder of my 2-night stay at Sarara confirmed and strengthened the initial impressions.  Sarara is a seriously good choice for a place to spend a few days on safari in northern Kenya.

The area is remote and private with no other vehicles or visitors around, other than the camp guests.  From being a shooting gallery for roaming bandits from Somalia – who decimated the elephant and rhino population in the 1980’s and early 1990’s – the Mathews Range has become a conservation success story and Sarara plays no small part in it.  As we could see for ourselves, there are nowadays numerous elephants and many other wildlife species such as the remarkable Reticulated Giraffe, gerenuk antelope and others populating the area.

One of the highlights of my visit to Sarara was visiting the Singing Wells.  This unique dry-season spectacle involves observing Samburu warriors forming a human chain with their buckets, retrieving water for their livestock from the wells in the dry riverbed below the camp.  All the while chanting traditional family songs to their cattle, they pass the water up by hand, to be deposited in drinking troughs.  More about that later.

Sarara offers a particularly diverse range of activities for guests.  In addition to game drives and visiting the singing wells, the list of available activities is a long one indeed:  bird-watching, walking/foot safaris, Samburu homestead visit, climbing up to 8,000 feet in the Mathews Range, a day trip to the ‘sacred mountain’ of Ololokwe, scenic helicopter trips to Mt. Ololokwe or to go trout fishing or all the way to Lake Turkana, overnight fly camping, and finally a Sarara bush pony horse-back safari.

A particularly worthwhile outing from Sarara is a visit to the nearby Reteti Elephant Sanctuary which has rescued more than 40 orphan elephants in its first year of existence. Reteti, which helps to protect the remote Mathews Range, is Kenya’s first community owned elephant orphanage.  We listened to a presentation, experienced some first-hand interaction with the young elephants and I took a few photographs of the staff at work.

Sunrise at Sarara
Don’t oversleep the sunrise at Sarara. Summer, winter or fall, it happens just before 7 in the morning. With several bird calls preceding it and heralding it, the sun gently lights up the Mathews Range which can be seen in the front left quadrant of a simply stunning view over the acacia-strewn woodland. The view is seemingly never-ending, fading into a hazy confluence of earth and sky.

At times like these you can let your mind wander along with the views of the mountains, sky and bush. Like I did, you may experience a sense of belonging, of inner peace and clarity. In this timeless place, past and future seem to fall away and like the natural creatures around us, we can embrace the present with all our faculties. Look, listen, smell, feel. This is Africa at its finest, in front of your very eyes.

The Singing Wells
On my first morning at Sarara, a few of us started off walking out of camp after breakfast, in the direction of the river, to visit the famed singing wells.  I had no idea of what to expect at the wells and was somewhat apprehensive that the experience would be artificial or canned or would feel awkward.  Quite the opposite happened.  Upon first walking up to the cattle watering area, there were already about 1,000 plus head of cattle present, bunched together but held apart in herds by closely attending Samburu tribesmen, clad in their traditional red wraps.

As you get closer, you realize and observe that the cattle are being called or mostly sung – to the side of a water trough on the edge of a deep well.  At various levels in the well – depending on the depth of it – two or three Samburu men – stripped naked – are wedged in on the side of the well,  passing up a bucket of water from the bottom of the well upward from one person to the next, to be deposited in the trough.  The Samburu herder would be singing a traditional repetitive or rhythmic phrase and melody, recognized by his cattle as the signal for ‘water’.   Six or so of the cattle would separate themselves from the melee of other cattle and herders and quickly approach the trough, lower their heads and start to drink.  All the while being closely observed by the herders, who would intervene with the crack of a whip or a loud exclamation if one animal got out of line or stayed too long.  Each herd gets watered every second day and it is a communal activity – the Samburu work together and use each other’s wells, depending on the level of water.  In the height of the dry season the water can be as far as 16 to 20 feet or more below the surface.  This watering activity takes place every morning in the dry season, starting around 10am or so, when the cattle is deemed safe from attacks by predators.

Experiencing the Singing Wells was special for all of us.  Right here in Samburu is probably the only place in the world where it can be experienced.  It is pastoral in the full sense of the word, animal and man in close proximity, illustrative of the close – one may even call it emotional – bond between the Samburu and their much-loved cattle.  No photography is allowed at the Singing Wells; this is something you simply have to go and see first-hand!

While fascinating to observe the practice, the abundance of cattle is a growing issue in the Namunyak Conservancy.  By early 2018 there were already too many cattle in the area, estimated to be around 20,000 total.  This displaces many wild animals including lions, which simply cannot thrive around such intense human and domesticated animal pressure.

As a result, Sarara is not a full-on ‘big game’ experience.  There is plenty to see, for sure.  Lots of elephants and Reticulated Giraffe, some gerenuk and lesser kudu, but not much else.

My stay at Sarara was made even more special because of the personal attention of the managing couple Rob and Meg, who are raising their young daughter Eva in this most wonderful of places.  Rob and Meg are naturals to the role of camp management, with an easy-going nature and friendly, welcoming manner.  Even so they clearly have a firm hand on the wheel in terms of maintenance, overall standard and quality of food & beverage, the appearance of the lodge and so on.  Accommodation at Sarara is first class.  The hybrid tented rooms are large and comfortable, with en suite toilet, and hot and cold water on demand.  My room – #5 – had a separate yet connected (a few steps) outside bathroom with a shower with a view over the landscape.

Food at Sarara was stellar with well-prepared home-style cooking, such as roast chicken, leg of lamb, a great variety of pizza, pasta, frittata, with beetroot and many other salads for lunch.  Always with a tempting dessert.  More than enough in the way of variety, choices and certainly quantity, to satisfy a demanding palate.

Dinners were communal, mostly served al fresco overlooking the water hole where there was almost always some wildlife present, including elephants, kudu and baboons.

PART 4: MERU NATIONAL PARK

Just like the Mathews Range, Meru National Park was hitherto unknown to me.  I had seen an occasional reference to it, mostly to do with Elsa’s Kopje, but never gave it much thought as a wildlife destination.

After spending 5 days in the area, we will certainly be placing Meru in the rotation for Kenya trips.  What do you say about a place where you can see 18 different rhinos in a day, spend an hour with a pride of lions without so much as another vehicle driving by, and enjoy seeing elephants, buffalo, two species of zebra, the superb Reticulated Giraffe, and a wealth of others mammals and birds.

I would call it underrated and that appears to be definitely true about Meru NP.  For someone who is not simply out to ‘tick’ the Big Five mammals in a day or two, and who prefers to experience Africa in a more relaxing and peaceful area with preciously few other visitors round, Meru National Park is an attractive proposition.  Its wide-open plains may not quite rival those of the Mara but they are impressive nonetheless.

Meru has no less than 15 permanent streams and rivers which run across it from west to east; these life-giving sources of water ensure there is always something of interest to see in the area.

When I was there in late February it was more dry than usual, with not much rain having fallen since the previous November.  Even so, Meru was in much better shape than Samburu. Judging by the thriving wildlife and abundance of young animals the park clearly has some spare capacity.

One morning we found a relaxed pride of lions along one of the rivers, no doubt planning to ambush one of the many solitary buffalo we’d seen close by, earlier.  Or perhaps they were lying in wait for a huge herd of perhaps 600 or so buffalo which we saw the following day.  Strung out in a massively long procession it would be relatively easy for the lions to cause a disturbance and isolate one of them.

At the Meru rhino enclosure, a significant and growing number of black and white rhinos are being heavily protected from poaching with admirable results.  Over the course of one morning and one afternoon rhino drive, we saw 18 different rhinos, 20 in all.  Some were far away or partially obscured in the bush, but just as many were in the open, providing some nice photo ops, particularly two females with their offspring. The black rhinos gave us the slip this time around, but they are definitely there too.

Meru is a little bit wilder than most other game areas in Kenya and particularly for first time visitors to Africa its diversity, variety of landscapes and raw appeal make it an interesting option, an ideal first stop on an African safari.  We spent 2 nights each at two properties in Meru namely Elsa’s Kopje (Elewana) and Rhino River Lodge, just outside the park boundary.

Elsa’s Kopje Camp
Elsa’s Kopje surprised and delighted me in several ways.  For one thing the rooms are stunning and even more so the private house and family room.  Elevated above the plains amidst a profusion of large boulders and rocky outcrops, the camp is blended so well into its environment that it appears to be smaller than it really is.  From my room #10 I could hardly see any other room and while I was barely 50 meters from the main lounge and dining room, it was completely out of sight.

The rooms are spacious, well-designed, well-lit and hard to find fault with in any way.  A comfortable bed, great views, effective mosquito net and abundant hot and cold water on demand in a shower.  I would have preferred a bath and was told that the room would indeed be getting a tub view a view, soon!

What else did I like about Else’s Kopje?  Attentive and clearly hands-on management, friendly staff, superb food with lots of choices, terrific packed breakfast (we tried them twice) a super nice pool among the rocks, and lots of habituated hyraxes.  The part of the camp which I saw – and my room in particular (#10) – have lots of steps and slopes, being built into the sides of a kopje or hillock.  So persons with mobility issues should definitely request a room with the least number of steps to negotiate.

Our second Meru property was Rhino River lodge, located just outside the reserve, right at the entrance to the rhino boma.  If you definitely want to see some white rhino – and have a shot at some black rhino as well – then this property would be a good choice.  Rhino River Lodge is a comfortable tented camp; its strengths are location (on the edge of a gorgeous forest), food (Italian specialties in the bush!) and value.  The 6 rooms at Rhino River Camp, raised on platforms above the gently flowing Kindani River, lack for nothing except perhaps mosquito nets.  Even so there are a few things which need attention including the decking planks, the practice of feeding a troop of resident Greater Galagos, and spotty Wi-Fi availability.  Don’t come here expecting a luxury, sophisticated tented camp as you may be disappointed.  But for what it is – a solid 4-star property with friendly staff and exceptionally good food, Rhino River Camp delivers a comfortable and interesting experience.

Rhino River has an exceptionally nice swimming pool, a well-stocked bar and restaurant area and numerous nature trails for you to explore the private property.  The bird-watching is excellent with as many as 180 different species of colorful birds having been recorded here.  Resident mammals in and around camp include Syke’s monkeys, baboons, dik diks, bush babies, porcupines, and the occasional bush buck.

For the last five days of my Kenya educational trip, I was fortunate to have a private Origins Safaris guide along, in the person of Zachary Methu.  Zachary is not only a true expert in all things ornithological, he is also a superb all-round guide who is passionate about every aspect of nature and the environment.  It was easy and fun to keep the conversation going with him on pretty much any topic, whether it was the side-effects of excessive and long-term chewing of miraa, or the calls of rarely seen birds which we encountered in the riverine forest around Rhino River Camp.  With Zachary and Richard Turner – an accomplished young naturalist – around, there was no need to consult a guidebook or website.  These guys had all the knowledge and experience right at their fingertips.  As so many of our guests have found out over the years, the presence of a KPSGA Silver guide – like Zachary – makes a world of a difference and turns what would be a nice trip into an unforgettable experience.

Conclusion
Everything I saw and experienced in Amboseli, the Mathews Range and in Meru National Park proves once again that Kenya is Africa to the core.  Wild, fascinating, sometimes harsh and unforgiving, yet exciting and still ready to be explored after all these years.

Kenya is Africa because of its diversity of people, culture, habitats, animals and birds – a magical mix which never fails to delight visitors, no matter how often they return.  There is always something new to be seen, somewhere else to go, a different season to experience.

Kenya is Africa because it evokes a sense of time and place which is unmistakable.  Amboseli, the Mara, Tsavo or Samburu:  they are all Africa to the core and experiencing them changes you forever. It is no different at the base of the Mathews Range or looking out from your room at Elsa’s Kopje Camp in Meru.  You’ll know you are in a special place.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris