Kilimanjaro Rongai Route Trip Report

Hiking Kilimanjaro

Is climbing Kilimanjaro easy? You might be lulled into thinking that is so by day 5 on the Rongai Route, or at about the same point on the Machame Route. By that time you’d have negotiated a few steep and sometimes rocky uphill stretches, a couple of glacial valleys and notably, the Barranco Wall on the Machame route. And some long, grinding hikes at altitude. All in all though, you’re thinking that this is not going to be as hard as you’d imagined it might be. That is to say, if you’re not suffering too badly from the effects of altitude sickness, you’re sleeping ok and not overly fatigued.

And then everything changes. Somewhere between leaving camp around midnight on summit day and getting down to the camp where you will be spending your last night on the mountain it becomes decidedly ‘not easy’.  This is when you find out that Kilimanjaro is not a stroll in the park.  In fact, most climbers will be tested to the very extreme of their limits, over the span of about 14 hours, starting around midnight on summit day, which lasts well into the afternoon of the following day.  On the Rongai Route, the critical first five hours would be spent negotiating the steep and relentless ascent from Kibo to Gilman’s Point.  Then another hour to Stella Point and one more hour to eventually reach Uhuru Peak.  It would not be over until you had retraced every single step to Kibo Hut and then descended all the way to Horombo Huts at 12,250 feet above sea level.

You can do the math.  From Kibo Huts to Uhuru Peak at 19,341 feet takes from 6 to 8 hours, and the journey down to Horombo 4 to 5 hours.  So realistically you’d be looking at spending as much as 14 hours on your feet under less than ideal conditions, at altitude.  It can be extremely cold and sometimes windy, there may be lots of ice and snow, and even if there’s not, there’s rocks to climb up or down, and loose scree which holds you back going up, and becomes slippery and treacherous, on the way down.

Easy?  Absolutely not.  Without the right equipment, preparation, training and above all expert guiding, you’d be setting yourself up for failure, if you approach a Kilimanjaro climb in a cavalier manner.  Youth is not a panacea to the pitfalls of high altitude either.  Traveling alongside us the entire time on the Rongai climb, three youngsters in their 20’s – lean and by the looks of it fit and healthy – all bailed out.  One young Danish guy was forced to quit.  When your blood oxygen level drops to the low 60 percentile as happened to him, hand in hand with other symptoms of altitude sickness, the decision to continue stops being yours.  Your head guide steps in and essentially makes the hard choice for you.  Nobody needs to risk their life to summit Kilimanjaro.  Better to come back some other time.

Having dealt with equipment, trip preparation, the pre-climb briefing and other formalities in some depth in a previous Kilimanjaro trip report – this trip report will deal with the day to day experience, and provide some specific tips to improve one’s chances to summit.

Day 1: Rongai Gate to Simba Camp

This morning our capable and friendly Zara Tours team weighed our main kit bags and helped us pack everything into the back of a minibus.  The four of us piled in and drove just under three hours – with a couple of stops along the way – from Springlands Hotel to Rongai Gate.  It took about 1 hour for entry formalities to be completed, while our team enjoyed some soft drinks and snacks in the roomy ‘tourist’ pavilion.  The day one hike turned out to be an easy and fairly gentle walk of about 4 km – it took just about 3 hours – to Simba campsite.

It was down-right warm: shorts and t-shirt weather.  At Simba Camp, we were shown to our tents where our kit bags were already in place.  We did a bit of preparation for the evening, and then enjoyed some tea and popcorn.  A little bit later, dinner was served:   leek soup and grilled fish with several sides including potatoes, cabbage and yucca.  The elevation was 2,642 meter, or 8,661 feet above sea level.

Day 2: Simba Camp to Second Cave

Today’s route ended up being a somewhat more difficult climb with long steady inclines, and a couple of rocky stretches.  About two hours or so into the walk, we emerged from the forest zone into the moorland, with attractive proteas and other macchia-type vegetation.  We walked from 08:30 a.m. to about 1:45 p.m., with several rest stops along the way.  En route, we passed by First Cave and then reached our camp site at Second Cave.

After lunch and a short rest, we did another hike of about 1 hour up a ridge just above the cave.  Back around 4:30 for popcorn and tea.  Dinner was at 6:30 p.m.  On the day, we experienced an elevation change from 8,661 feet to 11,450 feet.

That night, the temperatures dropped and it turned bitterly cold.  My 20-degree rated sleeping bag – even with a liner – was just not up to the task and I was cold all night, to some extent.  For Kilimanjaro, it is imperative to take a high quality sleeping bag which can protect you at sub-zero temperatures.

Just as importantly, you need several layers for sleeping comfortably, starting with a thermal base layer.  The nights at Second Camp, at Kikilelwa and definitely at Mawenzi Tarn, were freezing to the point where we had to fill some of the Nalgene bottles with hot water to keep our feet warm.  Even that was not sufficient.

Day 3: Second Cave to Kikilewa

Today we spent 3 hours traversing a distance of about 8 kilometers (5 miles).  It was pretty terrain filled with lots of hills, streams, and wildflowers and almost  all the time, we could see the lower stretches of Kilimanjaro and its snow-covered peak on our right and Mawenzi to our left.  Patches of fog occasionally shrouded Mawenzi, and bright sunlight lit up the snow on Kilimanjaro.

With the exception of a few rather steep and rocky uphill stretches, overall it was another easy day.  We only gained about 600 feet on the day, climbing from 11,320 feet to 11,900 feet.  Lunch on this day was a potato stew and dinner was rice and ugali (local version of polenta) with canned baked beans and chicken with gravy.  We also enjoyed some small deep-fried ‘vetkoeks’ or fritters.  All the hiking makes a person hungry!

Day 4: Kikilewa to Mawenzi Tarn

At Kikilewa, it was not quite as cold as the previous night due to some cloud cover.  After somewhat intermittent yet sufficient sleep (around 6 hours total), I was up at 6:00 am., with some water for washing and hot water for tea, delivered right to the tent opening, by our ever-efficient and friendly waiter.  Breakfast was at 7:30 a.m.

Shortly after, we left the camp behind, with the trail going up steeply in the direction of Mawenzi.  The scenery was simply  spectacular with Kilimanjaro to the right, Mawenzi straight ahead and the valley towards the left.  It was a steady climb all the way from 11,800 feet, finishing up at 14,100 ft.  The hike, which was the most challenging of the trek up to that point, took about 4 hours total.

Mawenzi Tarn Camp is located beside a small lake at the base of Mawenzi Peak.  The seasonal lake – which had quite a bit of water in it at the time – attracts buffalo in the dry season.  At 4:00 p.m. we took a one hour hike to a viewpoint from where we could see both Mawenzi and Kibo.  The view was fantastic in any direction.

Day 5: Mawenzi Tarn to Kibo

It was a long hike today, taking nearly 5 hours from Mawenzi Tarn to reach Kibo Huts.  It was not so much the 4,720 feet elevation increase which took a toll on our legs on this day, as it was the duration of the walk.  A real slog.  We negotiated a couple of hills early on and then walked across the saddle, with views of the clouds – by now we were looking down on them – to the right (north).  In total, we hiked about 8 km.  As a group, our oxygen saturation levels were still holding up well.  Two of us were over 80% and the other two were in the 70’s and none of us had any of the typical symptoms of altitude sickness.  Nonetheless, we were quite tired by the time we made it to Kibo Camp at 2:00 p.m. that day.

Day 6: Kibo to Uhuru Summit to Horombo

Kibo to Hans Meyer Cave
After dinner, we were sent back to our tents with instructions to sleep or at least rest until we’d be woken up around 11:00 p.m., for the final assault on Kilimanjaro.  Also, we had to set aside the clothing and gear needed for what might turn out to be below zero temperatures at high elevation.  Most of us didn’t sleep much, maybe a couple of hours at best.  There was simply too much excitement, anticipation and apprehension in the air.

At just after 11:00 p.m. we got together in the mess tent for a last bite, with some tea, coffee, toast and cookies.  Nothing heavy.  After a bit of a ‘gaiter delay’ – they can be tricky to put on and we needed Joseph’s assistance – we were on our way at around 00:30 a.m. on 25 February.

The Rongai Route is relatively easy, until it isn’t.  The ‘not easy’ part starts almost immediately out of Kibo Camp with a steep, steady climb up to Hans Meyer Cave.  We were told that it was going to be cold around 03:00 a.m. and so it was, but not unbearably, protected as we were under multiple layers of clothing.  Beyond the cold, the challenge is to control one’s breathing.  I had previously been advised to breathe low down, pushing out the diaphragm, slowly and controlled.  At sea level breathing like that may lead to hyperventilation, but above 15,000 feet elevation it turned out to be extremely helpful.  That, plus small, measured steps, following the guide’s slow slow pace.  Pole Pole.  Which means ‘slowly slowly’ in Swahili; pronounced ‘PO/lay PO/lay’.

Soon enough, you find your rhythm as you proceed up and relentlessly higher.  The clock ticks by.  1:30 a.m.  2:00 a.m. 2:30 a.m.  For as garrulous a bunch as we had been earlier, it got awfully quiet there for a while.  Joseph had prescheduled short breaks (for water and snacks) on the half hour.  I don’t believe we could have made it without those breaks.  For once I did not need to make any Diamox-induced pee stops.  Under the seven-plus layers of clothing we were sweating heavily despite the near-freezing temperatures.

Hans Meyer Cave to Gilman’s Point
Once we reached Hans Meyer Cave – about halfway up the hike to Gilman’s Point – the path got steeper and we started to negotiate what seemed to be an endless series of switchbacks.  One after another, turn by turn by turn.  The loose, gravel-like scree underfoot made for extremely heavy going.  One meter forward, half a meter back.  On and on and on.  The hours rolled by and we saw several people being escorted down the mountain, their grand ambition coming to a grinding halt, their hopes unceremoniously dashed.  None of us commented on the stragglers or the climbers headed down.  Neither did we speculate as to the cause.  It didn’t feel like the done thing and it would have stirred up too much negativity.  Rather concentrate on the job at hand.  One foot in front of the other.  Up, up, up.

By the time the sun started to rise in the east in the most spectacular fashion, I think we all knew we would make it.  Even so, the gathering dawn started to light up what was still ahead of us, the single most difficult final stretch to the crater’s edge, through a jumble of giant rocks thrown around and pushed on top of each other during a cataclysmic event which took place some 200,000 years ago.

With what little remained of our strength, we tackled the rocks, the occasional grunt and clatter of our walking sticks the only sounds to pierce the tomb-like quiet of the high mountain.  At around 6:30 a.m. we saw it – the first milestone of three:  Gilman’s Point.  Other than a sign announcing the spot, there was not much there.  Even so, we were all mightily relieved and pleased to have reached the crater rim.  Even if we were to turn around at this point, it would have been an achievement worthy of a certificate.  Our elation was short-lived when we remembered that still ahead of us was a solid 2 hours of hiking, before we could claim to have summited Kilimanjaro.

Gilman’s Point to Uhuru Peak
From Gilman’s Point it was another hour to Stella Point and another hour from there to Uhuru Peak.  What complicated matters tremendously, was the exceedingly thick layer of ice and snow covering the crater rim.

For much of the way to Stella Point we were struggling along inside the narrow confines of a snow/ice ditch, our walking sticks occasionally disappearing halfway down the shaft, into the deep snow banks on either side of the ditch.  Quite a few times, we had to hop or struggle onto the snow layer right at the edge of the crater.  Just one inadvertent stumble or mistake away from disaster.  Anybody sliding down the thick snow into the crater would likely suffer grievous injury from the fall, or worse.  Joseph admonished us several times to be careful and to proceed extra slowly.  We did.  From Stella Point, where dozens of climbers from the Machame, Umbwe and Lemosho routes join the main trail to the crater rim, there was a steady stream of climbers coming and going.

Finally, in the distance, we saw the famous Uhuru Peak sign and then heard a few squeals of delight and cheers up ahead before we rounded a corner and we could see it in front of us.  Relief and excitement flooded through us and a few tears were shed.  Embracing one another, we grinned our way through a photo op.  We did it!! Even though there was a large group of climbers hot on our heels waiting for their turn, Joseph made sure that we had enough time to get all the photos we wanted.  This was a special day and we were not going to rush it!  Reaching the top of Kilimanjaro is a great achievement and for many people the culmination of a long process of planning, preparing, training and finally traveling to Tanzania to tackle the mountain.  The feeling of being on the roof of Africa is one of exhilaration and relief mixed in with gratitude for one’s health and ability, and appreciation for the contribution of the guiding team and your own team members.  The four of us, myself as well as Valerie, Carla and Mawgan, developed into a tightly knit unit very early on in the process, and it was fitting that we reached the summit together, as a team.

Uhuru Peak to Horombo Hut
With photos done and congratulations given and received, came the reality check that we were now faced with retracing every single step back to Kibo camp and then some.  Our final destination for the day being Horombo Camp at 12,500 feet above sea level.  By this time, we were all stretched to the limit and beyond.  I heavily doubted my own ability to make it down the mountain.  In hindsight, I think my kvetching about being totally ‘knackered’ was probably not good for team morale.  Sorry guys!

However, we pushed on, a few choice expletives coming in handy to relieve the stress and blow off some steam.  Before long, we were back at Stella Point.  And then Gilman’s.  From there, we slithered and grunted back down the way we came up, slipped and ‘scree-skied’ down the switchbacks, passed by Hans Meyer Cave in the other direction, and finally stumbled back into Kibo Camp like modern day zombies.  Boots and all, without so much as removing a single layer of clothing, I crashed on top of my sleeping bag, falling into a hugely restorative one hour nap.

A little more than an hour later, we hit the road again, on a seemingly endless track down to Horombo, descending from 15,000 feet to just over 12,000 feet. We had to negotiate a simply awful trail, a veritable river of rocks, stretching ahead of use like a never-ending minefield.  On and on and on it went.  Summit day finally came to an end as the sun started to set.  With our headlamps back on, we trundled over the rocks for the last kilometer or so into the surprisingly vibrant and busy Horombo Camp.  For a modest additional cost of just over US$10 per person, we upgraded to two A-framed huts with bunk beds, relishing the prospect of sleeping horizontally for a change.  It worked.  We all had a good rest and felt a lot better the next morning.

Horombo Huts to Marangu Gate – We made it!!
The hike was far from over.  The longest single walk of the entire trip – a massive 19 km (almost 12 miles) still lay ahead of us.  After a couple of speeches, thank you’s and some singing on the part of our fantastic support crew, we refilled the water jugs, checked the snack supply, and picked up the backpacks one more time.

Remaining as careful as we could be, we hustled down the mountain trail as fast as our tired limbs and feet would take us.  A solid six hours later, having passed through some gorgeous rain forest scenery (and some rain!), we emerged at Marangu Gate.  It was over.  After a few more photographs and a last lunch (chicken and french fries without ketchup), a short wait for our certificates and we piled into our minibus for the drive back to Moshi.

In one of the dumpiest of hotel rooms I’ve ever stayed in (#8 at the Springlands Hotel), I picked out some items to donate to our guiding and porter team, checked a few emails and let everyone know that we were ok.  A late yet fun dinner at an exceptionally loud local restaurant ended up being the grand finale.

Still dazed and by now starting to experience calf and other leg muscle pain, being handed the official Kilimanjaro certificates by our head guide Joseph, felt like the tangible proof of the monumental effort we had individually and collectively put into conquering Kilimanjaro.

Bert’s Tips for Improving Your Chances to Summit

So what are my top tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb?  Here they are, based on my personal experience over two summits in 2018 (Machame Route) and 2020 (Rongai Route):

#1:  Keep your feet happy and healthy. 

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days. 

Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.

#2:  Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.

#3: Sleep when you can. 

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.

#4:  Eat and drink regularly. 

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.

Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.

#5:  Take the Diamox. 

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.

#6:  Train, train, train.

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.   

In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

1. Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly. 
2. Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.
3. Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.
4. Regular weighted squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!
5. Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.
6. Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Standing with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance. 

Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells. 

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

Back to Kilimanjaro – February 2021

For the next trip up to the summit – it will be via the Marangu (‘Coca Cola’) route in in February  2021 –  here are some of the changes I will be making:

Getting a new sleeping bag capable of handling minus 20C to minus 30C temperatures

Taking a less squeaky sleeping pad

Consider using Dexamethasone (steroid) on summit day

Take a pill organizer and take some CBD along for muscle pain

Packing some clip-on crampons in case we run into thick snow and ice again. 

Photographs by Bert Duplessis, Mawgan Grace and Val Pedrami.

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Greater Kruger Park Area Trip Report 2020

MARCH 2020

Over the span of ten days last March, Kathy and I visited six different properties in South Africa’s lowveld area adjacent to and inside the southern and central Kruger National Park.  Mostly in the Sabi Sand Reserve but also in Kapama, a private game reserve further west, and in Thornybush, a private game reserve adjacent to Kapama and bordering on the Timbavati region.

The Sabi Sand Game Reserve had received an abundance of rain in the preceding couple of months, and as a result game-viewing was challenging due to the tall grass and thick bush which limited visibility significantly.  Compared with the dry season, general game seemed to be dispersed and not readily seen.

The Sabi Sand being what it is, even under suboptimal conditions, the game-viewing was good to excellent.  We were fortunate to experience close-up and extended views – with almost no other vehicles present – of all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals (lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos) as well as African Painted dogs (at three of the six properties), once on a hunt, and a pangolin. And a wide variety of plains game including giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, impala, kudu, warthogs and others.  The birdlife was impressive, with many of the summer migrants such as the Woodland Kingfishers and various shrikes, bee-eaters and orioles still present.

Here are my impressions and highlights of the areas and camps we visited:

MALAMALA, SABI SANDS

Predictably, the game viewing at MalaMala was consistently good, just like it always is.  Over the course of a few game drives, we saw the Big Five mammals and plenty of plains game.  Highlights were a sighting of a leucistic (‘white’) buffalo calf and some quality time spent with a young male leopard on a walkabout.  The leopard eventually settled down on a huge boulder and gave us quite a show; most importantly we had the leopard all to ourselves for what must have been 30 minutes plus.  We were thrilled to see white rhino up close and personal and not just one rhino sighting but three!

The guiding, accommodation, food and all-round hospitality were top-notch.  The recent refurbishment of the rooms and general areas at MalaMala Camp and Sable Camp succeeded admirably in refreshing and updating the look and feel of MalaMala.  It brought in more light and some brighter colors with a bit of pop. The private decks are larger and just perfect for lounging while game viewing and star gazing.  All bolstering MalaMala’s long-cherished ‘authentic African safari’ feel and character.  This is still THE place to experience absolutely the best game-viewing in the Sabi Sands, bar none.

CHEETAH PLAINS, SABI SANDS

We were totally bowled over by the experience at Cheetah Plains in the northern part of the Sabi Sand.  The three houses, each with four private suites,  are simply magnificent in design and execution, and clearly no expense was spared to achieve a peaceful and luxurious retreat which is 100% personalized and where the entire experience can be tailored to your preferences. You literally have the run of the place (and what a place it is!), with complete flexibility in terms of timing, meals & beverages,  activities and overall schedule.

We enjoyed a few splendid meals at Cheetah Plains and clearly this is a place where wine aficionados would be totally at home, with an enviable collection of South African wines.  Always a good sign when your personal favorite – in our case a Rust en Vrede Estate – is available and in stock.

Even though our guide had to contend with excessively thick bush he nonetheless got us onto the best lion sighting of the entire trip – the Talamati pride – and also a superb and extended experience with a leopard mother and cub, on our second morning.  Another welcome surprise?  The fact that the game-drive vehicles were battery-operated:  quiet, efficient and environmentally friendly and the entire property is ‘off the grid’.

TENGILE RIVER LODGE, SABI SANDS

Probably the best overall new lodge we have seen in many years, Tengile is in a class of its own in terms of design, comfort, privacy and sheer enjoyment value.  This is a place where I can see myself spending several days, and maybe skipping a game drive one afternoon simply to enjoy the stunning suites, each with a plunge pool, outside sala area, a lounge/sitting room with a great view, in addition to the beautifully appointed bedroom.

In the usual AndBeyond fashion, the hospitality, meals and game drives as well as the guiding were all first class.  The bar at Tengile is one of the most inviting of its kind, definitely a focal point of the common area.

The staff at Tengile were very personable – clearly they love their jobs. We enjoyed a lunch (really a feast) in our room the day we arrived which was quite a treat – the food was delicious.  We felt very pampered and spoiled.

The game drives out of Tengile did not disappoint either.  One memorable sighting was of a pack of young African painted dogs possibly waiting for the adults to return from a hunting trip.  They seemed to get bored and created havoc chasing some game around.  One of them finally scored and ended up with a scrub hare.  It was great fun following them.

JABULANI

Our long-awaited 3-night stay at Jabulani in the private Kapama Game Reserve lived up to and exceeded every expectation we had.  Together with our dear friends Abe & Rosanna Lambrechts from Cape Town, we experienced a superb all-round safari with excellent game-viewing, fascinating elephant interaction, an exciting and educational visit to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre, and we were served what was unquestionably some of the best food on our trip to that point. Jabulani has four chefs including a pastry chef.

The Jabulani experience started with a bang on the first afternoon, meeting three members of the Jabulani herd namely Jabulani, Sebakwe and Somopane, and having an opportunity to feed them some pellets and in the process get up close and personal with each of them.

The elephant interaction at Jabulani is limited to this feeding and petting session, but it is quite intense and involved.  We were a group of 8 guests and we spent the better part of an hour alternating between the three elephants with ample opportunities for photography and videos.

We spent three nights at Zindoga Villa (suitable for families or 2 couples traveling together) which was beautifully appointed in a classic safari style with a thatched roof, and soothing interiors with natural mud and straw finish on some of the surfaces.

The two main suites at the Villa each had its private splash pool, fireplace, tub, indoor and semi-outdoor shower, and a shared dining room and lounge.  A charming twin-bedded suite adjoining one of the main suites is ideal for two children or two adults sharing. From the villa, it is about a 5-minute walk along an immaculately groomed sandy path to the main lodge and dining room, overlooking a small dam. Just before reaching the lodge you cross over a sturdy suspension bridge.  The Zindoga Villa also has a private villa entrance for game drive pick ups and drop offs.

The food at Jabulani was stellar, from the first evening’s 5-course tasting menu to an elaborate bush dinner with sundowner drinks and snacks, with the elephants.  Our farewell dinner with choices such as venison loin and grilled salmon, was another delightful meal served in the cozy wine cellar.

Most of all though, Jabulani excelled in the quality of the game viewing.  Our capable and effervescent guide Liesa was knowledgeable and fun to be around.  She also displayed a well-developed ability to anticipate and predict animal behavior, putting us in excellent positions to observe predators in action.   Most memorably, this resulted in us witnessing a spell-binding African painted dog hunt.

In addition to the painted dogs, we also spotted several prides of lions, a leopard (briefly), white rhinos and buffaloes, lots of wild elephants and a rare pangolin sighting.  Jabulani appears to be reliably good for seeing all of the Big Five mammals over the course of 3 to 4 days.

LION SANDS TINGA LODGE

Tinga Lodge and its sister property Narina Lodge are located in a private concession in the southern area of Kruger Park, close to Skukuza Airport and Skukuza Rest Camp.  We found the Tinga rooms and common areas overlooking the Sabi River to be exceptionally attractive and well-managed.  The same was true of nearby Narina Lodge which was similar in concept and style, except that it was raised off the ground level on a boardwalk about 3 meters high.  This resulted in a  view from the front of the common area which was better than the one at Tinga.

We enjoyed several well-prepared meals at Tinga, with the lunch on arrival being served out on the deck, a perfect spot for it. The game-viewing in the area – which was true of the game-viewing everywhere in the Greater Kruger National Park area – was challenging due to the thick bush.  Heavy summer rains had caused rank, dense vegetation with grasses obscuring pretty much everything  smaller than buffaloes, rhinos and elephants.  This was particularly noticeable in the areas around Tinga, to the point where our guide Joe (who was as good as they come) had to venture onto the public parks road in search of lions and zebras, for example.  We did get lucky with a couple of great sightings including a surprise encounter with a pack of about 6 or 7 African painted dogs.  They popped up in front of a crash of White rhinos which was what we had initially stopped for.  The best sighting overall by far, was of a massive and clearly extremely powerful male leopard which spent several minutes right in front of our vehicles, marking its territory.

ROYAL MALEWANE FARMSTEAD

Fittingly, our last stop in the Greater Kruger Park area was at the sublime Royal Malewane Farmstead, where camp manager Nick Daneel and his team including Charne Daneel and super guide Rudi Hulshof, introducing us in splendid fashion to this iconic safari brand. I was thrilled to finally find out for myself what it was that has made Royal Malewane such a highly regarded and popular deluxe safari brand.

Like all great brands, Royal Malewane creates quality by imbuing every aspect and facet of the guest experience with quality.  To start with, the usual new arrival formalities were dealt with as efficiently and briskly as I’ve ever seen it done.  In the room – which was a veritable work of art itself – there was a half bottle size of quality sparkling wine on ice, if one were so inclined. As a couple, we are always reluctant to open an entire 750 ml of sparkling wine (anywhere), knowing that most of it would be wasted.  Not an issue at Royal Malewane.  The mini-bar and snack bar had everything one could possibly want – and more.  The room had ample space, plenty of natural light, and a mix of practical and whimsical design and decorative elements which combined into an esthetically pleasing whole.  The Liz Biden touch was unmistakable.  I liked the fact that the suite was uncluttered, without any nooks and crannies, making the most of the available space. The back doors (French doors also located in the bathroom) opened up to a fabulous deck with an outdoor shower and an inviting splash pool.

Shortly afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious light tapas lunch and a bit later went out on the first of two outings with our guide Rudi Hulshof, assisted by tracker Lodrick Mkansi. Over the course of 30 years in the safari business we’ve come across many excellent and a few superb guides.  Rudi quickly established himself as being in the latter group.  His pre-drive briefing was confident and comprehensive without being pedantic.  I was particularly pleased with his comments about sundowners, to the effect that people do not come to Africa to drink G & T’s  and that depending on the game-viewing scenario and flow, there may not be time for a drinks stop.  Which is exactly what happened.  We were so engrossed with a young female leopard resting on a horizontal branch and then a heart-stopping walk-by of five sub-adult lions, that a sundowner stop before sunset would have been out of place.

Rudi’s uncanny anticipation of animal behaviour, his pithy, clear and concise comments about animal behavior,  habitat, trees and plants and any topic we cared to raise, were what we had anticipated from the highly regarded and award-winning Royal Malewane guiding team.  Between them, the team  has over 300 years of African bush experience, including no less than three of only seven living Master Trackers in the world.  

On the morning of our departure back to Jo’burg, we took a short game drive from the Farmstead to Royal Malewane where we enjoyed breakfast on the patio overlooking a well visited water hole.  It was great to finally see for ourselves what makes this place so special and famous.  The welcome from camp manager and expert guide Juan Pinto, illustrated how a few well chosen remarks can make a hugely favorable impression.  Juan complimented Kathy on her Swarovski binocs and then insisted on checking out my vintage pair of Zeiss 7 X 45’s.  Juan then offered to clean both pairs of binocs, despite having an imminent staff meeting.  That’s how you gain and retain a stellar reputation.

The breakfast itself was splendid and attractively plated.  Cappucino for Kathy?  No problem. 

Our brief stay ended with a couple of rooms inspections, including the stunning classic Royal villa.  Nothing nouveau or cutting edge here:  just an ultra-spacious, well-lit and beautifully appointed villa with adjoining suites complete with outdoor plunge pool, indoors and outdoors showers and tub, massive king size beds with mosquito netting, and a tastefully decorated shared living and dining room area.

The same can be said of the six  individual suites.  Plenty of space, lots of light, great views from the verandah – all in all a delightful spot to spend a few days in the bush.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

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Virtual Itinerary

A Novice Hiker on Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro Climb Report: Machame Route

From not even a dream to signing up
Some 30,000 people climb Mt. Kilimanjaro every year. People of all ages, widely different physical make-up and degree of fitness. Which is comforting to know in the pre-climb decision-making phase. When you’re asking yourself if you too, can do it. If you too, have what it takes to join the small crowd of people who reach the roof of Africa every year, raising both hands in triumph in front of the iconic wooden Uhuru Peak sign and looking down upon the clouds, from 19,300 feet. It is good to know that kids as young as 7 (legal age is 10), and more seasoned climbers in their mid 80’s – as well as hundreds of physically challenged individuals – make it all the way to the top, all the time. It can get a little daunting too such as when a well-meaning individual sent me a link to a video about a successful Kili summit attempt by a person who had neither feet nor hands. The implication being that it should be a cinch for an able-bodied individual like me. Thanks pal.
Looking back, my Kilimanjaro climb ambitions were hardly ever in the ‘burning desire’ category. To be sure, I had seen the mountain several times over the last 15 years or so, mostly partially shrouded in clouds. A few times flying over it en route from Johannesburg or Zanzibar to Nairobi and then again from both the Tanzania and Kenya sides, on photographic safaris. Kilimanjaro was something I wanted to get in a photograph with some elephants or giraffes between me and it. Not something I had any desire to tackle with boots and poles.
This all changed when my friend Clemson Smith-Muniz first brought up the topic a few years ago. I was somewhat intrigued, but not having done any climbing or even serious hiking, at that stage, I thought about it for a day or so and then moved on to something else. The seed was planted though. When Clemson brought it up again a couple of years later, looking for assistance to put the trip together, I thought why not and pretty much invited myself along. It was a spur of the moment decision, the kind of thing you wake up to a few days later shaking your head. You’re a runner, not a mountain climber or even a hiker. You don’t even own walking sticks or ‘serious’ boots. Kilimanjaro? Really?

Having made a rash decision to get on board, I did follow it up with a sensible move which was to get in touch with Steve Turner and his team at Origins Safaris, for advice on the best route, time of year, planning, equipment, training and selecting a competent local outfitter, who’d be responsible for our well-being and safety, and would hopefully get us to the top.

Having worked with Origins for many years, I was not surprised when I received impeccable advice and answers to all my questions as to where, how, when and with whom. We settled on the Machame Route (with an extra day to acclimate), in the month of February (least wet) and with Summits as our local operator.

TRAINING AND PREPARATION
In retrospect, the most important thing I got right in the lead-up to climbing Kilimanjaro, was to work with our Kenya destination management company, Origins Safaris. Their training and preparation hints and guidelines, their detailed equipment list and medical preparation hints and cautionary advice, were invaluable. My personal list of things to do to give yourself the best possible chance for summiting Kili has seven items:

Select a longer route or add a day
Over the years it has become clear that the success rate for a Kilimanjaro ascent is significantly higher on the longer routes like Lemosho (eight days) and either Machame or Rongai with one additional night added for acclimating, making them seven days each. Working with a good operator and with some solid preparation the success rate for these treks is high with most climbers making the summit or at least Stella Point. By contrast a much smaller percentage of the climbers on the Marangu route (5 days) reach Uhuru peak. A five-day climb is not long enough for proper altitude acclimatization, with the result that many climbers are affected by altitude sickness or simply turn around because of exhaustion.

Do some hiking or climbing before you go
This may seem self-evident but climbing Kilimanjaro is physically and mentally challenging. While technical mountaineering skills and equipment are not required for the ‘regular’ routes, the sheer duration of the climb, the near daily increase in altitude and the many hours of hiking day after day will take their toll on the unprepared or poorly prepared climber. Depending on the route, you may even walk steeply down into and up out of glacial valleys. My advice is to find some hills or slopes, strap on a weighted backpack (don’t make it too heavy at first), grab your walking sticks and start hiking an hour or so, perhaps four times a week. Make it longer on weekends, and gradually increase the duration and weight. Carry at least two containers of water and stay hydrated; if you are going to use a bladder system, start using it now.
In addition, plan on doing at least one medium-high climb, such as a 14,000’ peak in Colorado or elsewhere. It’s great preparation and should give you a fair indication of your state of readiness. In my own case I really struggled on the last few hours of a Wheeler Peak ascent (13,167 feet) in New Mexico, about 5 months before my planned Kili climb. Without the help of Clemson – who helped me with my heavier pack – I likely would not have made it. In the end the Wheeler Peak experience was a major wake-up call. I immediately sketched out a training program and started hiking up and down the Buffalo Bayou levee walls with a heavy pack the very next week. It worked.

Select and take the right gear
A Kilimanjaro ascent is challenging enough not to have inferior equipment or the lack of an essential piece of gear complicate things. A good operator will supply you with a detailed list – be sure to read it well before the trip starts. A proper Kilimanjaro kit can’t be thrown together the day before! It starts with the right kit bag (waterproof), a light day pack, layered clothing, a quality water-proof jacket and pants and most importantly – a good pair of water-proof boots. Our group found out the hard way – having to endure a tropical downpour of epic proportions on the first day – just how important a good pair of boots is. Two climbers in our group got their boots wet and that creates a potentially serious issue for the entire rest of the trek, with heat and sunshine (to dry the boots out) being scarce commodities.
Among the items not generally mentioned in packing lists but which I personally found most useful, are a cheap plastic poncho (it will keep you dry in even the worst tropical downpour) and a rechargeable Luci Light, to provide some light inside your tent. At higher altitudes you’ll be spending many hours inside a small dark tent and having some light helps to dispel the gloom and makes it a little bit more livable. Also having light (other than a headlamp) is useful to read by or to find things and to get dressed in the mornings. I found that the Luci Light received a sufficient charge to keep it going for the duration of the trip, despite the general lack of sunshine.

Stay hydrated and properly fed
Hiking for 4 hours plus pretty much every day, and as many as 16 hours on summit day makes heavy demands on one’s body. To keep your strength up you absolutely have to stay properly hydrated and well fed by drinking liquids (mostly water) throughout the day and consuming nourishing food regularly. A good quality operator like we had will serve you some nice, palatable foods at breakfast, lunch & dinner. They will also provide a steady supply of purified water – and snacks like candy bars and nuts to consume along the way. Even so it is a good idea to bring a few of your own favorite snack bars along to keep in your day-pack. I personally did not eat as many as I thought I would, but people’s mileage varies. As for hydration, a bladder system usually works well except that the tube is subject to freezing up in really cold weather. So be sure to have it well insulated or take some water in a couple of Nalgene bottles as well.

Maintain a positive attitude
Staying positive when fatigue sets in – as it inevitably will – is crucial on Kilimanjaro. When the conditions turn sour, or you’re suffering from blisters, a lack of sleep, diarrhea or nausea, feeling down and starting to doubt your own ability is understandable and even predictable. This is where perseverance plays a key role. It is easier said than done but simply putting one foot in front of the other and not dwelling on how many more hours you have left on the day, is the best strategy. It is all about dealing with the next 20 meters and not worrying about what tomorrow will bring. Your guides and porters as well as your fellow climbers will help to cheer you up and having them around to talk about what to wear the next day, seeking advice for issues you may be experiencing and to share a few stories and jokes, is invaluable.

Take your time
On Kilimanjaro – as in any high altitude environment – taking it slowly and literally step by step is definitely the way to go. It is one of the first things your guide will talk about – ‘pole pole’ or ‘slowly slowly’ in Swahili – and you will hear the phrase repeated constantly. There is no shame in falling behind a bit on a day on which you may just not be able to keep up. Better to take your time on the way up rather than burning an excess of energy and running out of steam a day too soon. You may be surprised about how slow the initial walking is; even along flat terrain and on slopes where you’d ordinarily speed things up quite a bit. Not on Kili: every ounce of energy is going to be called on when summit day comes around, so save it for then.

Have a game plan for Summit Day
Summit Day is when you’ll be tested to the limit, so my advice is to have at least a mental game plan for the day. Here are a few of the most important things to think about and plan for:
Make sure to dress properly: do what you can to keep your fingers and toes warm, take good care of your feet (sock selection, lubricant), stay hydrated.
Even more importantly, plan for an extra-long day which may run from around midnight to well into the next afternoon. Keep something in reserve.
There are no brownie points for carrying your own pack on this day so ask an assistant guide or porter to help you with it. It may make the difference between summiting or not.
Be ready to shift down into a mental low gear – call it mountain 4-wheel drive – for the several hours on the last, steep ascent up to Stella Point. By then it will be an effort to lift up your leg for each ledge and rock. Knowing this in advance will not make it easier but the fewer surprises the better.
Remember to conserve a little energy and enthusiasm for the way down. You’ve got maybe 5 hours to go after reaching the summit…

The days before the trek starts
If you can fit it in, spend a few days in Kenya or Tanzania on safari before you tackle Kilimanjaro. It will help you to deal with the jet lag of course, and if you live at sea level, you’ll be acclimating to an altitude of 3,500 to 6,000 feet or so, if you include the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.
Prior to our Feb. 2017 Kilimanjaro climb, we did just that, spending several days in the Southern and Central Serengeti prior to flying back to Kilimanjaro. The day before the trek we met with head guide Daniel Kilango (200+ Kili summits under his belt!) and Leila of Summits for a detailed briefing, which entailed going over the day to day program and route and covering the ‘golden rules’ of the mountain (go slow is #1). Daniel did an individual gear check and I was happy to receive a ‘well-prepared’ rating. Among the items which he specifically asked about were Nalgene bottles because a Camelbak may freeze up on the last day.

Machame Route Days 1 & 2: Machame Gate to Shira Camp

Day 1: Machame Gate to Machame Camp
We were up early at 0600A for final preparations and we all enjoyed a good solid breakfast at Machweo Wellness. Excitement levels were through the roof! Except for one member of our party who had to abandon the attempt even before it started, due to incipient lung issues. Sorry Clemson! At 0830A we departed for Machame Gate via Moshi, driving through a rural area with scattered homes along the way. The distance was about 50 kilometers total and it took an hour and a half or so.
It took a good 90 minutes to complete the formalities at Machame Gate. We had to sign in, get our stuff weighed and obtain permits. Most of this handled by the competent Summits team. While waiting for some of this to happen, we enjoyed hot tea and coffee and biscuits in a pleasant picnic area.
Finally, around 11:40A we walked through the gate into Kilimanjaro National Park. Our great trek were to start in earnest. Right away we saw a troupe of Blue Monkeys in the trees. We did not see much in the way of wildlife – even birds – after that. Not that it mattered. We were soaking in the beautiful and serene rain forest environment with giant trees towering above us.
Perhaps 2 hours into the hike, we heard some thunder in the distance, but it wasn’t until 30 minutes later that it started to rain. At first lightly and then hard. A veritable tropical deluge, dumping buckets of water on us with near constant lightning which thankfully remained well above us.
By now we had donned our raingear which included Gortex jackets, ponchos, backpack covers, gaiters and rain pants. As it turned out our gear was only partially waterproof – most of us ended up with unwanted water somewhere: boots, backpacks, clothing. My Asolo boots held up well in the severe rainstorm and in fact throughout the climb, earning a 100% waterproof check. Incidentally, a cheap ultra-thin 50 cent plastic poncho ended up being the star of the day in the gear category: it did a sterling job of keeping the rain out of my backpack.
By the time we got to Machame Camp at about 6:00P it had stopped raining and the air was clean with pockets of blue sky. After a stirring welcome song from our group of 30 porters, cooks, butler and assistant guide, we were shown to our tents. Roomy enough for one person, the tent had a mattress and sleeping bag with pillow. We freshened up with a bowl of hot water, changed into warm clothing and made our way to the mess tent. While dinner was being prepared we had some hot tea and coffee and popcorn. Served a bit later, dinner was an elaborate and nicely prepared spread of parsley potatoes, spinach, a vegetable mélange and tilapia. On the side? A couple of local specialties – ugali and maharage, a local bean dish.
Just before dinner our head guide Daniel conducted the first of what would be daily individual assessments, asking each of us how much water we had consumed, if we had a headache, suffered from fatigue, dizziness, or diarrhea. Each of us also got a finger oximeter reading with most of us checking in with a reading in the low nineties Pretty good.
A quick briefing on what to expect for the next day and then it was off to bed with the temperature dropping fast. I slept surprisingly well – close to 7 hours.

Machame Route Day 2: Machhame Camp to Shira Camp
I did not need the 6:00A wake-up call on this day, having been up and getting ready since 5:40A. It is quite the rigmarole to get ready for a day’s trek on Kili. It is not only about what to wear on the day but also about what to have in your day-pack: camera, sunscreen, lip balm, energy bars, rain gear, an extra fleece, gloves. The list gets pretty long.
After a bit of a delay we got going around 08:00A and immediately out of Machame Camp we started a steep rocky ascent which continued almost unchanged in terms of level of difficulty for nearly 9 kilometers. It was everything one may have anticipated on a Kilimanjaro climb: tough, relentless, challenging and even dangerous in a few spots where a slip on a wet rock may have resulted in injury. No massive cliffs so not potentially deadly but scary nonetheless. One more reason to wear grippy boots and use poles.
There were several spots where the poles were redundant and even a bit of a nuisance, such as when we had to use both hands to clamber up or down. Even so they were very much worth taking along. We experienced a little more rain but nothing serious, not even close to the previous day’s deluge. Just as well. By about 3:00P after a long, slow hike we arrived at Shira Camp, happy to be serenaded again by our crew of porters and other camp staff.
A late lunch (chicken & pasta main course) was followed by a couple of hours of down time. I found a spot with cell phone coverage (a line of other people on a ridge right outside of camp) so managed to get a few texts out. The views from Shira Camp were spectacular with the summit visible in the distance. On the other side of camp there were more stupendous views over the Moshi area and of Shira Cathedral. Dinner was again delicious and filling – white rice, a beef stroganoff stew, steamed vegetables, ugali and more. After our nightly physical assessment, and briefing for the day to come, it was early to bed to get sufficient rest.

Machame Route Days 3 & 4: Shira Camp to Karanga

Machame Route Day 3: Shira Camp to Barranco Camp
Another big day with a lengthy up and down hike out of Shira Camp. The first 5 hours of the climb traversed open, desolate terrain with little in the way of vegetation or animal life. For the most part the trail was not excessively steep but quite long, a total of 15 km for the day.
Our first objective was to reach lava Tower, an impressive rock formation, for lunch. Surprisingly and rather miraculously our mess tent had already been set up by the time we got there at 12:30P and lunch (soup and sandwiches) with chicken and potatoes, was served shortly afterwards.
After lunch, we made a quick descent (2 hours) to Barranco Camp where we would spend the night. Right opposite the camp and clearly visible on arrival, is the daunting Barranco Wall, a steep cliff which we would traverse the next morning. We could see the deserted switchback trail which we knew would be thronged with climbers, porters and guides the next morning.
Barranco Camp is a pretty spot, with the wall on one side and a valley on the other. As usual, our tents were clustered together in one spot, not far from each other, with a convenient toilet tent ( ‘the helicopter’) nearby, and a mess tent some distance further. Other components of the camp were a kitchen tent as well as tents for the porters, chefs, camp assistants and guides.
Barranco is the prettiest of the campsites we have seen this far. Almost surrounded by mountains, it feels like a large rock island suspended among the hills.
Dinner was again served at 6:30P to enable us to get a good night’s rest. This time around, it was garlic bread, zucchini soup, spaghetti with ground beef.
Cell phone coverage (Airtel) is good at Barrranco, particularly along a rocky ridge which bisects the camp. Several people could be seen out and about, either in conversation or staring intently at a small screen. Different setting, same behavior.

Machame Route Day 4: Barranco Camp to Karanga
On this day we tackled the Barranco Wall. For some reason I had the completely wrong idea about the size of this natural barrier which constitutes one of the Machame Route’s biggest challenges.
It is not called a wall for no reason. Essentially a cliff face more than 800 feet high, the trail up the Barranco Wall is a test of strength and agility and is not for the faint at heart. The mix of tight switchbacks, ledges, solid rock slabs and narrow gaps is formidable indeed. Two areas are a test for practically anybody except the youngest and most agile among us. The ‘kissing rock’ is one of them. At a certain point I found myself with all my weight on the tip of my left boot, having to swing my right leg around a gap of a good 5 feet or so. It doesn’t sound like much on paper, but in the actual situation one slip could have a disastrous outcome.
After about 2 hours we reached the summit of the ridge where we – and a bunch of other people – relaxed for a while to enjoy the achievement and marvel at the views.
I hadn’t mentioned it up to now but believe me the views on the Barranco Wall and specifically from its summit, are among the most spectacular of the climb. To the east the peak of Mt. Meru (15,000) could be seen emerging from a cloudy basin. While to the north-west, the Kilimanjaro massif could be viewed clearly, its side streaked with two large snow glaciers.
We posed for some pics, got some more water and enjoyed a light snack and then continued. The descent on the other side was a test too: steep and gravelly in parts, one had to be extremely careful not to slip and take a dive.
The trail ended at a stream where many porters could be seen refilling water containers.
After another brief respite we carried on by negotiating a very steep, yet thankfully relatively low hillside, leading directly to Karanga Camp. The altitude of this camp (13,066 feet) is about the same as Shira Camp which we had left 2 days ago. The overnight at Karanga added a 7th day to our trip, the better option compared with the 5-night trip which skips Karanga, continues on to Barafu (another 4 hours) and culminates with a summit attempt that very night.
Spending the night at Karanga enables one’s body to better adjust to the high altitude and improves the chance for success on the final ascent, quite significantly.
The next day we were going to push slightly beyond Barafu to Kosovo Camp. By the time we reached Kosovo we’d have completed a short but punishing section of the final ascent route. So the following day would be the big day: Early out of Karanga and on to Kosovo where we would try to get a few hours’ sleep until a midnight departure for the roof of Africa, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro at 19,300 feet.

Machame Route Days 5 & 6: Machame Gate to Shira Camp

Machame Route Day 5: Karange to Barafu/Kosovo
After another decent nights’ sleep (I was awake a couple of times), I was up by 5:45A for all the preparations for the day’s hike. New on the menu? Trying out a pair of sock liners. My feet felt good for the duration of the walk so I decided t wear them again for the summit attempt starting at 30 minutes past midnight on this day.
Our hike this day took us through and up a fairly steep path through a high plain littered with small and large rough-textured black rocks.
To our left Kibo peak could be seen clearly, a large white glacier reflecting the sun. At one stage we watched a commuter-type aircraft circle the mountain for what must have been some splendid views before it headed off in the direction of Arusha.
At the crest of this rise the trail dipped down into a glacial valley, only to rise again quite sharply (some rock-hopping involved) before we got to Barafu. Barafu is a large camp, being the main springboard for Kibo for the Machame, Umbwe and Lemosho routes. We checked with the local warden and rested for about 20 minutes or so (I enjoyed a Mars bar, a small banana and 250ml of juice) before setting off again for Kosovo. As I had mentioned previously this put us about an hour closer to the summit. We were all happy with this decision because the first hour out of Barafa was one of the most difficult stretches yet; a steep hill littered with large slabs of rock scattered in helter-skelter fashion. Several times we were simply climbing over and around rocks and negotiating patches of flat rock, rather than following any marked trail.
Completing this section of the trail at night would have been significantly more strenuous and tricky. We got to Kosovo at around 11:30A, enjoyed a great lunch of ‘kuku and chips (fried chicken and French fries) about an hour later. The mountain was clearly visible and very much dominated the landscape, looking right in front of us. To the east Mawenzi Peak could also be seen from time to time.
The idea is to get some sleep in preparation for the evening’s summit attempt. I gave it a shot and managed maybe a one hour nap, but that was it.

Machame Route Day 6: Kilimanjaro Summit
At 1030P on the night of our summit attempt we were up and getting ready. Boots? Check. Gaiters? Check. Walking sticks, bandanas, fleece, thermal underwear? Check. The list is a long one. The temperatures can drop to well below zero Fahrenheit (-16 Celsius) and rain is also a factor, so all bases need to be covered.
By 11:30P we sat down in the mess tent for a light breakfast (oats and toast) and right on the dot at 12:20A on Thursday 23 February we walked out of the camp in single file, following our head guide Daniel up the trail in the direction of Kili.
Almost immediately the elevation started to increase and just to make things interesting, we were climbing in complete darkness with not even the moon providing some ambient light.
As opposed to our daily hike to get to this point, the summit day was ‘all business’ and there was not a lot of light banter going on as usual. The prospect of hiking nearly 7 hours in the dark while negotiating difficult and sometimes potentially dangerous terrain tends to focus one’s attention on the job at hand. One step at a time. Pole Pole.
As the hours slipped by and we inched our way ever higher along the winding trail leading to the edge of the crater, I tried to comfort myself with the knowledge that in terms of actual distance, we did not have far to go. It didn’t help much.
To say that the climb was hard would be an understatement. Its duration and intensity combine to make it one of the hardest things most people will attempt in their entire lives. From 16,000 to 19,000 feet and above, the human body is simply not capable of utilizing blood oxygen as effectively as at lower altitudes. Most people attempting this 7-hour uphill climb are not yet acclimated to such high altitudes, having spent just a few days at 10,000 feet plus.
This manifests itself in shortness of breath, fatigue & dizziness, all of which negatively impact one’s performance at altitude. Every high step onto a rock or ledge became an effort and I wondered how much more of this I was going to be able to handle. By this time I was totally gassed and it took every ounce of perseverance and determination to keep going. The same could be said of my fellow climbers.
Just about then, I heard voices. The relief flooded over me – obviously we must be close to Stella Point! And so it was; not 10 minutes later we were sitting down at Stella Point for a really well-earned cup of hot tea. Uhuru Peak was about an hour away, along a fairly gentle slope compared with what we had just been through.
By now the morning light was starting to illuminate the striking natural beauty of the area. Brilliant white glaciers against a dark blue morning sky, a dense band of clouds obscuring the surrounding forest areas, and of course the massive crater itself with the ash pits visible from afar.
Although Uhuru Peak itself is a somewhat nondescript jumble of rocks not a lot higher than its surroundings, reaching it is a milestone of epic proportions for ‘every day’ climbers. And for many people it is a huge big check on their bucket list. The official TANAPA synopsis describes it as ‘the physical and photographic manifestation of one of the worlds’ signature adventures: conquering the highest mountain in Africa. From a personal perspective, the high point for me was seeing the familiar Uhuru sign slowly emerge from the gloom and reveal itself in the foggy mountain air. We did not linger long: took our turn (yes there was a short line) for the summit pic in front of the sign, big grins hiding the fatigue and sleep deprivation. We did it!

So how difficult was it – really?
If anyone ever says that climbing Kili is ‘easy’, they are not doing it from the perspective of most of the thousands of persons who attempt to do it every year. For them, like us, it was a monumental endeavor which required good planning, proper equipment, lots of support, and a good amount of training and preparedness.
Climbing Kilimanjaro is challenging and can be dangerous (altitude sickness is a potentially deadly condition) yet it continues to attract thousands of people every year. Why? Kili is accessible and for all the popular tourist routes, no technical mountain climbing gear or skills are required.
Kilimanjaro pushed me to the limit of my physical resources and demonstrated that if one wants to hike one of the routes and enjoy the experience, a high level of physical fitness and endurance – while not mandatory – make it challenging but doable, rather than a grueling trek punctuated by some punishing climbs.
For the most part our daily hikes on the Machame Trail were long and arduous, but none of them was a supreme test of fitness. The 7-hr hike to the Crater on the last day, is where one’s physical prowess or the lack of it becomes evident. If you’re relatively fit and did some pre-climb training, it will be hard but manageable and – well – fun. Show up in bad shape and you will pay dearly in the form of having to bail out. Of course illness and external factors such as altitude sickness, lack of sleep, come into the equation as well. The arduous summit day climb is pretty much the same for the Machame, Umbwe, Lemosho, Rongai and Marangu routes.
As if the day wasn’t long enough already, we had to hike down from the Crater rim to our campsite (Kosovo) and from there to Mweka Camp. All in all this took another 5 hours of hiking, starting with a couple of hours or so of ‘scree-skiing’ down steep paths. By now our legs were pretty much shot. Not far out of Kosovo, the trail started to get a lot steeper. It turned out to be a real slog with the trail dipping down from the highland plateau to the forest via some abrupt steps, with boulders instead of bricks, and lots of protruding natural rock formations. Also, it was wet on the day which made this physically taxing trail even more of a challenge than one would expected.
Finally we made it to Mweka campsite which was quite large with two huge campsites filled with hundreds of hikers year-round. It felt good to realize that the we had nailed it, Kili was ours. We slept well that night.

Machame Route Day 7: From Mweka back to Moshi – The End

It’s never over until it’s over and so it was with Kilimanjaro. Before we could enjoy our first shower in a week, we had to walk down from Mweka Camp all the way to the Mweka Gate, about 10k or 6 miles. All downhill. Wet and slippery to boot, with hundreds of steps and rocky drops testing one’s agility and balance constantly.
Of course we were happy and rested by now, having enjoyed a good and long night’s rest at around 10,000 feet the previous night. Even so, piled on top of the previous day’s extraordinary test of endurance, it was something. My quads took a beating which I was reminded of over the following two or three days because of delayed onset muscle soreness.
Earlier that morning, just before leaving camp, the camp crew and guides had given us a rousing farewell with a few songs extolling our virtues (or so we hope) and ending with the traditional Kilimanjaro Jambo song.
We opted to have the tipping included in the price to be distributed by the tour operator office. It is also possible to use this farewell event to hand the tips directly to the persons involved, which in retrospect may have been a better choice. We will revisit this issue for any future attempts.
We reached Mweka Gate at around 1100A, checked out, received our completion certificates and then were treated to a sparkling wine celebration in the parking lot.
Back in the vehicle we set off for Moshi Town for a quick shopping interlude. Most of the other customers were tourists too and the prices were marked in US$. Nonetheless they had a good variety of items from $10 shirts to Tanzanite stones costing several thousand dollars. And everything in between: wooden carvings, drums, ceremonial sticks, place mats, bracelets, wall hangings and more.
After a lunch of kuku and chips at a small kiosk, we drove the 45 minutes or so to Arusha and that was that. A short debriefing from Leila of Summits, last farewells and our Kilimanjaro adventure had come to an end. The following day we’d be heading off to Amboseli in Kenya for somewhat more distant looks at Kili, hopefully with a Tusker in hand!
Would I do it again? Yes – a return to Kilimanjaro to summit via the Rongai Route is in the planning stages. The trip will include a few days in Kenya prior to the climb.
Would I recommend a Kili attempt for others? Yes again. If you think you can do it, you probably can. Do some hiking, build up your leg strength and of course – pole pole.
What would I do differently? I would certainly try to get a bit more lean before getting on a plane for Kilimanjaro – and I would take more photographs. I think I was too pre-occupied with simply climbing and making it, the first time around, to properly document this amazing adventure.

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