Tips

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

What is the ‘secret sauce’ for an unforgettable few days on safari in Botswana? It starts with the animals, of course. The elephants, lions, giraffes, hippos – all of them. Add a beautiful, romantic setting. And finish it off with first-class accommodation, food and drinks and an expert guide to help you understand and appreciate the nuances and little-known secrets of the bush. Magnificent starlit night skies? Why not.

Belmond’s Eagle Island Lodge in Botswana’s Okavango Delta had all of that – and more – on a recent visit. The lodge made a great first impression, starting with the proximity of the airstrip to the lodge, the strikingly designed main area, lounge and dining room and the enthusiastic welcome we received from the lodge team, arriving there in early November. The only thing lacking? Water in the lagoon in front of the camp. Clearly the lodge comes into its own when the annual flood is well into the Delta and the view from camp is one over water, not a grassy expanse. Not that this bothered us much at the time. The lack of water in front of the camp was largely compensated for by the presence of several old buffalo bulls who had made it their territory.

Just in front of the lodge, about 70 meters along a berm pathway, is the Fish Eagle Bar, which I’ve seen described as one of the most romantic bars in Africa. Perhaps when the annual flood is in; it was closed at the time of our visit. The main lodge has a fireplace, a mostly open dining room and a separate (private) bar and lounge. The entire structure is dramatically accented by a sweeping dark gray wall and covered by a gigantic thatched roof, artfully blended with several large trees which pre-date the construction of the lodge.

Belmond Eagle Island Lodge has 12 rooms (sleeping a maximum 24 guests) with six rooms to the left and and six rooms to the right of the main lodge. All with good views over the floodplain.

The first thing we noticed when we stepped into our room (#6) was the air conditioning. This was not an evaporative cooler above the bed. This was proper full-on AC which will keep the room interior quite chilly if that’s what you want, no matter the ambient temperature.

For the hot months of the year which stretch from October to March, Belmond Eagle Island is a great choice from the perspective of being totally comfortable at night and during the early afternoon siesta time. The room also had plenty of storage space, a large tub, indoor and outdoor shower, a minibar, hair dryer, a plunge pool and more. We were not the only ones enjoying the plunge pool – Kathy had a thirsty elephant come by for a drink of nice, clean water one afternoon.

Clearly, there was not enough water in the area to do boating. We were not super enthusiastic about the prospect of an abbreviated mokoro outing but in the end, none of that mattered. Instead of fretting about the typical Okavango Delta water activities not being available, we pivoted to game drives and on several outings with our capable and enthusiastic guide OT (Oteng Tlale) we enjoyed some wonderful sightings.

On our first afternoon outing along the Boro River floodplain we observed large numbers of red lechwe, zebra, some elephants, and hundreds of birds of different species. We witnessed unusual interaction between a goliath heron and a pair of African fish eagles, with the heron lunging at the eagles in an apparent territorial dispute.

On two different occasions we spent time at a hippo pool on the Boro river, with at least 30 or 40 hippos jammed together. Both times we were the center of attraction as every single hippo eye was fixed on us. Once we surprised a few hippos who found themselves in shallow water upon our approach. Their helter-skelter dash for the safety of deeper water made things interesting for all of us. It appeared that they were young bulls who had been displaced from the main group of hippos, by the dominant, older hippo bull. Yet there they were, rushing back towards the deep water from which none other than the self-same dominant bull was watching their approach with growing interest.

Late one afternoon we enjoyed sundowners with the hippos, complete with a trio of snacks (dried beef biltong, cheese and sausage brochettes and dried mango) and our drinks of choice which included a gin & tonic, a Diet Coke and a Stoney Ginger Beer. The hippos looked cool and relaxed in the water but I think they would have traded places gladly.

On our second outing along the Boro River we saw noticeably fewer red lechwe around and the reason soon became apparent. Comfortably stretched out on a soft carpet of green grass, there was as handsome a young male lion as we had ever seen. He was lightly dozing but became alert and picked up his head, as we drove closer. The beautifully maned lion was about four to five years old, just approaching his prime.

On our last game drive we hit the jackpot when we caught up with a female leopard and her two young cubs. The two babies – around 4 months old – peered at us curiously for a few seconds before they disappeared into the thick bush. It was a magical, never to be forgotten moment.

We loved the area around Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, which was simply stunningly beautiful. The large grassy plains sometimes took on the appearance of a manicured golf course, as a result of freshly emerging grass shoots. There was a profusion of large impressive trees including mangosteen, lead wood, jackal berry and rain trees. Very ‘Botswana’.

The meals and catering at Belmond Eagle Island Lodge were consistently good. One evening the staff set up a table just for the two of us in the private lounge, serving a delicious vegan sweet potato curry. We enjoyed a multi-course traditional ‘braai’ (barbecue) on another night when there was a large party of French guests in camp. Not surprisingly, there was an extraordinary variety of meats to choose from, including lamb chops, chicken, beef steak, and traditional sausages. Side dishes included pap (the local version of polenta), corn, potatoes, and a nice variety of salads. There’s nothing quite like biting into a juicy piece of boerewors (the traditional South African sausage accented with coriander), while listening to animated conversation – in French – at the next table, with the iconic sound of braying zebras in the far distance adding some color. Only in Africa.

BOTSWANA TRIP IDEAS
Classic Botswana Safari
The ‘classic’ Botswana mix is to combine three properties, one each in the Chobe/Linyanti area, the Okavango Delta and the Moremi Game Reserve. There are several variations on the theme, some of which come into play depending on the season. In the wet season (roughly December through March) it is always a good idea to include a few days in the Kalahari and omit Chobe. For more diversity and a more active trip overall, consider splitting your time between Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, and northern Botswana. Mashatu is perfect for a 3-night walking safari followed by a few nights in a lodge or tented camp in the area. Return to Jo’burg for a night and continue to Maun the following morning. Alternatively, you can do a private charter to your northern Botswana camp, which becomes economically feasible for a group of 6 plus.

South Africa, Victoria Falls & Botswana
Botswana combines very well with several of its neighboring countries. For example, you can fly into Cape Town in South Africa for the first few days of your trip. The weather in the Cape isn’t great from June through August – often approximating a bad day in San Francisco – but there’s so much to see and experience that the weather can be overlooked. If you do want to experience South Africa’s Mother City at its best, go from September to November, or early in the year, from mid-January through April and May. We tend to avoid the Cape in the holiday season; too crowded with up-country and other visitors. From Cape Town, fly non-stop to Victoria Falls for a couple of nights. The Falls are at their best from about March through June, but worth seeing (Main Falls from Zimbabwe side), any time of the year. Plenty of adventure activities on offer ranging from white-water rafting to bungee jumping, gorge swing, zip-lining, and several others. Our favorite property? Probably the venerable Victoria Falls Hotel (stable deluxe rooms), but there are many other good ones including Stanley and Livingstone Hotel, the Ilala Lodge, Batonka Lodge, and Old Drift Lodge.

From Vic Falls it is just 90 minutes by road (we prefer to do this transfer by road rather than fly; less hassles) to the Chobe area. Spend a few days at Chobe Chilwero or Chobe Game Lodge (both excellent in the dry season!) and then continue on to the Delta.

Zimbabwe and Botswana
Zimbabwe and Botswana make a great combo as well. We would suggest starting in Victoria Falls, then spending several days at one or two camps in Hwange National Park (nowhere better for elephants!) and continuing on to the Chobe area and elsewhere in Botswana. Ideally, travel should be in the dry season from about June through October as Hwange really gets into its stride when elephants and other wildlife congregate around the water holes. Even though off-road driving is not allowed inside the park it is rarely, if ever, a factor as so much of the viewing there is done from hides and blinds, or around water holes where the animals come to you, and not the other way around.

Best Time to go?
Northern Botswana including the Okavango Delta, Moremi & Chobe is at its best from June through October, the dry season. This is when animals are drawn to remaining sources of water and thus easily seen. Plus the vegetation is sparse making for better visibility. All parts of Botswana heat up significantly from September onwards, with October and November being the two hottest months. Until the first thunderstorms roll in, the humidity is low (rarely much above the 20 percentile), so comfortable despite the high mid-afternoon maximum temperatures. Typical of a semi-desert climate, the evenings cool off rapidly as soon as the sun sets.

During the shoulder and low-demand season from November through March, prices are lower, there are fewer other visitors around, lots of baby animals, and the Kalahari is at its best. South-eastern Botswana (Mashatu) is an excellent value option and is at its best from about April through October; this is also one of the best places for a foot safari in Southern Africa.

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How to book a better safari

Fish Eagle Safaris’ owner Bert Duplessis and his team at Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. have been helping people plan their African safari trips for more than 30 years, since 1990. Based on all those years of experience and having travelled to practically every major safari destination in Africa themselves – repeatedly – here are their suggestions for making your first – or next – trip as good as it can be.

SPEND MORE TIME IN FEWER AREAS
Making just one change to your African safari itinerary is almost guaranteed to improve it. Spending more days in fewer places. Trying to do too much and cover too much ground on a single Africa trip is a rookie mistake and one you don ‘t have to make. Rushing around from one area to the next is frustrating from a logistical perspective (packing, unpacking, living out of a suitcase), and it costs more on a ‘per diem’ basis due to additional flights, transfers, visas and other expenses. Many properties offer long-stay discounts where they will include one free night if you stay for four, or variations on that theme. Slow down to save money – and enjoy the ride.

Africa is at heart a slow continent, best suited for exploring at a leisurely pace, in keeping with the ambiance of the wilderness which is anything but frenetic. Things happen when they happen. The animals do not have set schedules and they move around in real time. Allow yourself plenty of time to find and see them. Soon enough, you will start understanding and even anticipating behavior and gain insight into how different species interact, both within their own group and towards others. Few things in the wilderness are as fascinating as watching animal interaction such as when one elephant herd encounters another one. It can be amiable – if they have familiar bonds – or tense, if they don’t.

Of course, I soon found out that they were experienced safari aficionados who had traveled all over Africa. They knew exactly what they were up to. They took a day trip up the Rufiji River to Stiegler’s Gorge (still one of my all-time favorite African experiences), spent one night out on a fly-camping expedition, spent a half day fishing, and did not feel compelled to go out on every game drive. When the mood struck them, they’d rather take some time to enjoy the unique pleasure of simply watching the Rufiji River rushing by on its way to the Indian Ocean. With perhaps a cocktail or an icy cold Kilimanjaro lager in hand.

With several full days in any given area, many good things happen. For one thing, you develop a better understanding of the location of a property, where it is relative to other places, what it is close to and hopefully what makes it special. With enough time (or at least more than the usual 2 or 3 nights), you can explore and try out most of the available activities, sometimes even more than once. Enjoy the meerkat interaction at Jack’s Camp in the Kalahari? Well then do it again the next day. And the next – if you’re still there.

Perhaps more importantly still, you will connect with the local guides and camp staff and management, beyond the superficial pleasantries associated with a too-short stay. You’ll get a glimpse into their lives beyond hosting people in camp; learn something about their children, spouse, friends or family. Find out what they are passionate about, their frustrations, and you’re likely to get some invaluable advice about other safari destinations, or help with your photography skills, maybe even learn how to steer a mokoro.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GUIDING
Traveling on safari with an experienced, qualified guide can be a revelation. A good guide can be supremely knowledgeable about practically everything you see and experience – from butterflies to celestial objects. They can also be funny, helpful, entertaining, protective, and diplomatic. Often all of those. They will usually be keen to help you master a little bit of the local language – Swahili, Setswana, Afrikaans or French, all depending on where you find yourself. They will run interference for you when needed, help you out of a tight spot, lend you some local currency, and may even become a friend for life. They will show you what conservation is really all about and open your eyes to the complexities and challenges of their world.

To become a professional Zimbabwean guide can take from 5 to 7 years and it is an arduous undertaking filled with weeks & months of acquiring and honing skills as diverse as hospitality, mammal and bird identification, safety, firearms proficiency, animal tracking, botany, and much more. You can go out into the wilderness with a professional Zimbabwe guide with full confidence in their ability to keep you safe and to provide you with remarkable insight into what you see and experience, even what to anticipate. The same can be said about proficient guides in other parts of Africa – they are in a class of their own.

A driver who rushes around the Masai Mara, racing from one Big Five sighting to another, is not a guide. A driver who habitually drives right in front of lions or other big cats walking in a specific direction, forcing them to walk around his or her vehicle, is not a guide. A driver who takes unnecessary risks, who is unethical, who routinely positions his or her vehicle in the direct line of sight of other cars, is not a guide. A driver who takes shortcuts and trespasses on ecologically sensitive terrain, in the process leaving marks which may be visible for decades to come, is not a guide.

So, before you sign up for your next trip, make doubly sure that you will be guided by a proper, well-qualified and responsible guide. Not a driver.

MAKE YOUR TRIP YOUR OWN
Finding ‘the best’ African safari for you can be a daunting task, considering the multitude of areas, countries, and types of trips available. The solution? Consult an Africa destination specialist to make your trip your own. At about the same price as the many recycled cookie-cutter trips out there, you can have your own customized itinerary. Designed just for you. As unique as you are, reflecting your interests, your style and what you want to get out of the trip. Want to focus on big cats? Crazy about elephants, or giraffes, or keen on seeing the wildebeest migration? Special interest in birds or photography? A good advisor can help you with any of these, and more. So don’t settle for someone else’s trip, or a paint-by-numbers itinerary which is as predictable as the commute to your office. Talk to an African safari expert and you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised with their creativity and the way in which they can effectively incorporate your preferences and your interests in a sensible yet fun and exciting trip – at a price point of your choice.

GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE – SOMETIMES
A photographic safari is closely associated with game drives. Twice daily, morning and afternoon. Animals become habituated to the presence of the vehicles – meaning they don’t run away when they see one – so most people get their best views and their best photographs or videos, from a vehicle. All very well. It is comfortable, safe, and efficient. Done often enough, it can also become a bit predictable and maybe not quite as exciting as the first time. So what do you do? Get out of the vehicle, naturally. It doesn’t mean going out on a taxing route march, not at all. There are many ways to experience the wilderness and the wildlife from beyond the confines of the trusty Landcruiser.

Do make sure that at least a few ‘out-of-the-vehicle’ options are available on your trip or better yet, that they are already included and specified in your itinerary. Look for activities such as walking, boating, canoe or mokoro excursions, opportunities to observe wildlife from a blind or hide, a forest canopy walk, white-water rafting, perhaps a sundowner cruise on the Zambezi or a helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta. Doing and experiencing things beyond just game drives keep things interesting, add perspective, give you something to do in-between scheduled activities, and the more active pursuits provide a form of exercise. Not many safari properties have gyms or terrain suitable for jogging or running, so any time spent on your own two feet, will help counteract the inevitable weight gain associated with all the food, snacks and beverages constantly on offer.

If you’re keen, and physically capable, you can up the ante a bit with a two- or three-day walking safari in areas like Mashatu in Botswana or in the greater Kruger National Park. With the right guide and at the right time of the year, a foot safari opens a whole new world of experiences, and for many African travelers it ends up being the most memorable part of their stay. It’s quiet – just like the wilderness – and suddenly you will be hearing and seeing things which are quite beyond the scope of a vehicle-based safari. Starting with animal and bird tracks which tell a story of their own and which a skilled guide can weave into a fascinating account. You must be on the ground to experience it close-up. Likewise, the experience of approaching a large breeding herd of buffalo on foot, or tip-toeing to the edge of a dry river-bed to quietly observe elephants digging for water, or rooting around for mineral deposits. The sounds, smells and textures of the bush are out there just waiting to be explored – out of the vehicle.

BE WARY OF LARGE GROUP TRIPS
For me personally, the African safari experience is a very private and personal one. You and the wilderness. Just you – seeing the flat, dispassionate glare in the big yellow eyes of a lion. Just you – watching the dust fly off the leathery hide of an elephant as it cools itself with its gigantic ears. Africa is not someone droning on about a painting, an architectural masterpiece or a moment in history. Yes, there is a place and time for a well-qualified guide to enhance the experience with some judiciously timed interpretative comments. Mostly though, Africa speaks to you directly and quietly. Upon hearing the alarm calls of baboons, the contact calls between wildebeest babies and their mothers, an African Fish Eagle calling, or that most iconic of night-time sounds, the hauntingly evocative braying of zebras. A private moment on your verandah in the fading light of the African day, experiencing a strong sense of deja vu, an inexplicable yet powerful feeling about being part of the environment. Much of what makes an African safari experience unique and memorable is antithetical to having a large group of people around.

Of course, you can experience this with a few family members or friends and in fact having safari companions around can enhance the experience. The anticipation of a morning game drive, the thrill of seeing something special, and the pleasure of going over it again that evening, sharing photos and video clips, having a drink and sharing a meal – all part of the fun of being on safari. Just not a big group.

While some group trips can go well, I would be extremely wary of being bundled into a vehicle with a bunch of strangers, hoping that everyone will still be on speaking terms by the end of Day 5. Unless it is a private group, with a strong and experienced leader, there’s a lot of potential downside traveling with a big bunch of people. Logistical issues, the inertia associated with getting some individuals moving, chronic late-comers, and conflicting demands and expectations. So while group trips can be relatively cheap by African safari standards, as always you get what you pay for.

We’ve seen some sub-standard group itineraries from well-known, successful operators. Inexplicable, even baffling destination & property choices. Visiting areas at completely the wrong time of the year. Spending too much time traveling, or too much time in marginal areas. Some are almost laughably bad. Do your due diligence!

TAKE YOURSELF ON SAFARI, GO ON
An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a great experience for a single traveler. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting, enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere, as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Plus, it is safe with minimal time spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports, we include personalized meet and assists.

DON’T LEAVE THE KIDS AT HOME

Children love being on safari so by all means bring them along. The vast majority of safari camps do a fantastic job to make it a fun and involving experience for all ages. Children respond well to the genuine warmth of the local staff and guides in the camps. With almost everything the children see and experience being new or different and outside of their existing frame of reference, it is a wonderful experience for them on many levels. They have fun, they explore, and they learn. A lot.

The experience of traveling in Africa on safari is even more meaningful because of its interface with conservation of wildlife and habitat. Even the youngest ones realize that it is a special responsibility which we all share, to safeguard the environment so that future generations might enjoy the same privilege. There are several superb safari regions such as Madikwe, the Eastern Cape and the Waterberg region of South Africa which are malaria-free so that even the youngest ones can go along.

BE SURE TO GET GOOD ADVICE FROM THE RIGHT SOURCE
Is your neighbor who has been on one trip to Africa an expert on African travel? Of course not. And neither are most of the individuals who air their grievances about a travel experience or who seem effusive in their praise for a particular property. Online forums are rife with information and opinions which are biased or even totally untrue.

On the other hand, any one of the 30 members of the Safari Pros Association of North America – of which we are a founding member – can give you a balanced and even-handed appraisal of what to expect, where the real value lies, what to avoid, and what the best places are at certain times of the year. Several Safari Pros members have – like us – spent a lifetime crisscrossing African safari destinations and continually updating their knowledge and experience.

THINK CONSERVATION AND COMMUNITY
From its very inception, Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. has aligned itself with partners such as Wilderness Safaris, Origins Safaris, Nomad Tanzania and others who are 100% committed to sustainable travel practices. Their commitment to conservation is all-encompassing, all the way from decreasing their use of fossil fuels to improving the well-being of the local communities where they operate with funding, research projects, education and employment opportunities. Community involvement and support being vital to reduce poaching & illegal hunting, to preserve and rehabilitate wildlife habitat and to gain local governmental sanction.

In addition to supporting the conservation and community work being undertaken by our African partners – by booking our guests with them – we also consider the conservation practices of individual properties. We are more likely to include camps and lodges which reduce their carbon footprint by switching from fossil fuels to renewable sources of energy such as solar heating, use battery-operated game drive vehicles and boats, recycle waste, practice composting, reduce their water usage, grow their own vegetables and fruit, promote reforestation and habitat restoration and encourage their guests to be green.

As a member of Safari Pros of North America, we work only with partners who strive to conserve the beauty and well-being of the continent and understand the vital role tourism plays in conserving Africa’s wilderness and the livelihood of its people.

By planning your trip with us, you are also supporting numerous (and highly vetted) philanthropic organizations. Our members support (financial and in-kind) a wide range of conservation and community organizations. Your travel choice matters a great deal to Africa’s people and wildlife.

THE LAST WORD
Recently, when writing to us about how much she enjoyed her first trip to Africa, a client of ours added this: “On our last flight (from Vic Falls to Jo’burg), I was seated next to a woman who had been on a trip that she found endlessly disappointing.” Don’t end up being that person. Look at our suggestions, give us a call or send us an e-mail. We can and will help you book a better safari.

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Cape Town area sightseeing

It’s hard to find fault with Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘Mother City’. After all, it is one of the prettiest cities in the world. It starts with Table Mountain as the perfect backdrop, Table Bay in the foreground, the Atlantic Ocean, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, the captivating Victoria & Alfred Waterfront with its working harbor and yacht basin – and builds from there. In every direction, there is something interesting to see and to experience, from penguins to pedigree wines, endemic fynbos plant species to fantastic restaurants.

Cape Town is diverse, it’s exciting and it’s different. Read most of the street signs in the downtown area and you could easily imagine being in Amsterdam. Many buildings, statues and monuments harken back to the city’s earlier days under first Dutch and then English rule. Cape Town appeals to any and every traveler, no matter what their specific interests or passions may be. Wine aficionados, foodies, ‘culture vultures’, exercise and adventure junkies, gardening enthusiasts, amateur naturalists, photographers at any level, birdwatchers, hikers and climbers, sailing enthusiasts, beach people, artistic types, history buffs, artists – there is something of interest for the entire spectrum of visitors. That applies to residents as well, naturally.

Listen to the people around you in Cape Town and you’ll begin to appreciate the diversity and complexity of the city’s make-up: you’ll hear a lot of Afrikaans spoken – and much of that in a distinctive local dialect. English is widely spoken too, and a visitor can rely on getting around and finding assistance and answers to questions, in English. In communities like Langa and Nyanga, the predominantly African inhabitants speak mostly Xhosa. Beyond that, you will hear smatterings of European languages like German, Dutch and French in places like Sea Point, Hout Bay and elsewhere. English with a distinctive American accent? At any of the V & A Waterfront hotels.

Did I mention that it is difficult to find negatives about the city? To be sure, there are a few. The winter months, notably June, July & August can be dismal as the city has a winter rainfall climate, unlike practically the entire rest of South Africa. Where the winters can be cold, but dry. So only and mostly in the Southwestern Cape can it be cold, rainy and windy – often simultaneously – in the winter months. Winter storms can be intense with high winds and sometimes heavy rain, but mostly temperatures are moderate (with highs barely in the 50’s F) with light rain and mist.

Cape Town’s traffic issues are nowadays just as bad as those in the much larger metropolis of Johannesburg. Driving out of the city in rush hour – particularly on Fridays – can be a total bear. Of course, being a visitor, you can mostly avoid traveling during peak traffic hours. Unless your flight to your next destination departs in the early evening. In that case, allow yourself plenty of time to get to the airport. Cape Town’s formerly excellent local rail service has fallen on hard times and in general the public transport services are negatively affected by crime, vandalism and protests. Fortunately Uber is ubiquitous and cheap so by all means use it to get around town. Your hotel or guest house can also assist you in arranging a permitted taxi if you prefer that option.

Cape Town can get rather too busy for some people, from about mid-December through early January. During the high holiday season it is jam-packed with up-country visitors (look for the telltale Gauteng license plates) and with international visitors from all over the world and the rest of Africa. It can be tough to get into the better restaurants, there is a huge line at the lower cable car station, getting in and out of the Waterfront area can be a mission, and popular tourist sites like the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Kirstenbosch and the Boulders Beach penguin colony and many of the wineries, are crowded. If you are able to travel either before or after the holiday season, do it.

So what are our recommendations for visitors for things to do and see in the space of a few days in Cape Town? Here are some of them:

IN AND AROUND THE CITY
Take the revolving cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain. Do this at the first best opportunity, whenever the mountain is ‘open’ and the cable car is operating. Don’t wait until your last day as conditions sometimes change within hours and the cable car operation shuts down when the wind velocity is too high or because of poor visibility. Weather-related shutdowns can sometimes stretch into a couple of days, so drop whatever else you have planned, and go up the mountain if and when it is open. Early mornings are best to avoid the crowds. Definitely consider hiking either up or down – more about that later in the blog.

Visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – it is a jewel. Don’t miss the Boomslang canopy walk, the Cycad amphitheatre with dinosaur sculptures, and the Protea garden. If you have half a day for this, that would be ideal, but if all you have are two or three hours, it would still be worth it.

Take a guided Peninsula tour including Hout Bay, Chapman’s Peak Drive, Kommetjie, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (take the funicular to the lookout point), and the African Penguins at Boulders. If you have time, a guided half day City Tour is also most enjoyable. You may prefer to take a tour on the ‘Hop on Hop off’ City sightseeing bus.

Visit the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for some interesting walks along the breakwater, shopping (of course), visiting one or more of the huge variety of restaurants and pubs, and check out the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Set aside an hour or two for a stroll – or better yet a run – along the Sea Point Promenade. There’s beautiful vistas over the ocean, the people-watching is equally intriguing and you’ll get some exercise. You can start from the V & A Waterfront and make your way up as far as Bantry Bay, if you are not pressed for time.

Make some time for Cape Town’s beautiful beaches such as Clifton, Muizenberg and Camps Bay, particularly in the warmer summer months from October through April.

Stroll the Company’s Garden area where there are several worthwhile museums; the ‘top’ entrance is just across the street from the Mt. Nelson Hotel. Which – incidentally – has the best high tea in Southern Africa, if you’re feeling peckish.

Get your cultural card stamped with a visit to the Zeitz MOCAA Museum (Silo Hotel); Irma Stern Museum, Iziko South African (Natural History) Museum, SA National Gallery, SA Jewish Museum, or District Six Museum.

Visit Robben Island by ferry boat. While this is ordinarily a worthwhile trip, we have misgivings about recommending it due to perennial management problems. Ferries are known to run late, are canceled last minute and the like. So best to gather some local (up to date) intel on the status of the operation, before you buy your ticket.

In search of a bargain or a local curiosity? Browse the Long Street and GreenMarket Square markets – this can be done in conjunction with visiting the Company’s Garden.

Visit the Castle of Good Hope Museum; be sure to take in the ‘changing of the guard’ and visit the William Fehr art exhibit inside the building, as well as the Cape Military Museum.

Take a guided walking tour of the The Bo-Kaap area for colorful homes and Cape Malay cooking.

OUTSIDE OF CAPE TOWN:
By all means embark on a guided Cape winelands tour. Franschhoek, about a 45 minute drive from Cape Town, is the most interesting of the winelands towns but Stellenbosch and Paarl have their own appeal and there are superb wineries everywhere. Enjoy lunch with a view at Delaire Graff Estate between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The Cape Fold mountains – which dominate much of the winelands – together with the vineyards and signature Cape Dutch architecture make this a picturesque area well worth visiting even for visitors who are not at all into wines.

Take an uber or taxi ride from Cape Town to Kalk Bay village for lunch at the Brass Bell; or include it in your touring arrangements.

Visit Constantia Valley near Cape Town for some of the oldest wineries in the area, such as the imposing Groot Constantia; be sure to leave some time for the Norval Foundation Art Gallery, opposite the US Embassy.

Take a trip to the 12 Apostles Hotel for sunset drinks – it’s the perfect spot to see the sun settle over the Atlantic Ocean.

SOUTHERN CAPE (HERMANUS AREA)
Travel to Gansbaai for shark diving. Presently, the great white sharks are not around in big numbers, but there are several other resident shark species to be seen. The nearby town of Hermanus is known for the ‘marine big five’ which include the South African Fur Seal, the Southern Right Whale, African Penguin, Great White Shark and Bottle-nosed Dolphin. The town of Hermanus becomes a mecca of whale-watching when the Southern Right Whales are around, from about June through November. October is whale month so schedule your visit then, if you want to be sure of seeing these giant creatures – and their little ones – breach or simply frolic around.

TABLE MOUNTAIN AND OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
Table Mountain dominates Cape Town in every way; it is the city’s signature natural feature and no visit to Cape Town is truly complete without involving the mountain in some way or other. While it is perfectly ok to travel to the summit of Table Mountain on the Cable Car, we would recommend adding at least one activity involving a hike on the lower slopes of the mountain – or all the way to the top.

We work with a simply fantastic hiking guide in Cape Town – Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers – for Table Mountain hiking and nature walks.

Lauren recommends doing a hike as one of the first things, after arriving in Cape Town. It really helps to ground you, it gets the cobwebs out after the long flights and helps you feel awake, alive and ready for the rest of your Cape Town stay. Lauren says that many guests who hike with her at the end of their trip tell her how they wish they’d done it at the beginning as they learned so much that was useful for the rest of their stay.

If you arrive sometime in the morning into Cape Town you could do an afternoon hike, or alternatively the next morning or afternoon. If you want to incorporate Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Lauren could take you around the gardens for an easy walk of 45 minutes to an hour to see the highlights. From there, you would then hike up to the contour path and over and back down to the gardens. This hike only goes one third to one quarter of the way up that (Eastern) side of the mountain so it is not intense but you would get an idea and feeling of the mountain and nature around. This generally takes 3-4 hours to complete.

Other options are:

Pipe Track:
A truly beautiful +/- 3 hour route (also only going one third of the way to the top of Table Mountain), very quiet and peaceful and with lots of interesting plants to see, touch & even taste along the way. The turn-around point is at a cave-like ‘Overhang’ where hikers spend a few minutes just taking in the views and enjoying a snack and drinks.

Lions Head:
An amazing +/- 3 hour route, adventurous and beautiful. The only drawback is that it can be busy with lots of people on it, particularly on Saturday and Sunday. On either of those days, be prepared to be picked up from your hotel really early (5:00 am) in order to avoid the foot traffic.

If you want to do something a bit more challenging, then the Platteklip Gorge hike is the least challenging of the hikes which take you all the way to the top of the mountain. Anybody who is moderately fit and without major mobility or other medical issues can do it. About 3 to 4 hours, from the base of the mountain to the summit. Platteklip is not the most scenic of the various hiking options, but a great hike nonetheless. Once it opens up (last third of the hike) there are some fabulous views. This hike is also extremely popular so again, an early start is advisable. It is mostly exposed to the sun so be prepared for that.

Experienced hikers may want to tackle Nursery Ravine or Skeleton Gorge (from Kirstenbosch) or India Venster. Skeleton Gorge is beautiful with many small ‘box ravine’ pockets, seemingly with their own micro-climate. The hike is well-protected from the elements including the sun, with long stretches through Afro-montane forest. It is a long hike, particularly if your final destination is the upper cable car station. India Venster demands a bit more in the way of strength and agility, and I probably wouldn’t advise it for first-timers. A fear of heights would be a disqualifier as well. Otherwise it is an absorbing, fun hike and you will look back on it with a great sense of achievement. I have personally done all of these hikes so feel free to call me or email me if you have any questions.

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12th August 2021

Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia

Dinner on safari in the African bush takes on many forms. At Time & Tide’s

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Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia

12th August 2021

Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia

Dinner on safari in the African bush takes on many forms. At Time & Tide’s Chinzombo Camp on the banks of the Luangwa River in Zambia in late July this year, it came with a side attraction of grazing hippos. Those of you who have been on safari before – in areas where hippos are prevalent – will know that these giant herbivores leave their watery home at night to find sustenance in the way of grass and other plant material, on land. On this magical night at Chinzombo, they didn’t have far to go with plenty of emerging vegetation being available for them, just meters away from where we were enjoying our own meal.

Dinner with hippos? Only in Africa. When one of the Chinzombo waitstaff closed a dinnerware cupboard a bit too firmly, it spooked one of the hippos which scampered away, momentarily. Or perhaps more correctly, lumbered away… Either way, it was a unique experience to see these massive beasts so close up in an entirely safe manner as we were elevated on a huge indoor/outdoor covered deck, overlooking the Luangwa River.

For visitors from the USA, Lusaka, Zambia is usually at the end of a long, marathon journey via Johannesburg or several other cities in Africa or the Middle East. So it was in my case in mid-July when I arrived in Zambia after three flights totaling some 25 hours aloft from Houston via Doha and Jo’burg. Fortunately with a short break in South Africa to visit my family and in the process adjust to the new time-zone.

Mercifully, Zambian entrance facilities including a health check (checking of Covid certificate, handing over short pre completed form and temperature check) and obtaining a $50 single entry visa, took all of 10 minutes. Friendly and professional.

The impressive, brand new international arrival and departures hall (Terminal 1) was officially opened just days after we left Zambia, on August 5. For the time being domestic flights will continue to depart and arrive from Terminal 2, the old Lusaka Airport, which has clearly seen better days.

Photo – Great Plains Conservation

On August 6, Zambia also welcomed the first arrival of Qatar Airways which will initially service Lusaka via Harare, Zimbabwe, with 3 flights per week on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. This means that Zambia can now be reached directly from the USA – without transiting either South Africa or Europe – on Emirates, Ethiopian and Qatar.

From Lusaka it took about an hour by air – on a 29-seater twin turboprop Jetstream 41 – to reach Mfuwe Airport. From there we were driven to Chinzombo Camp which would be the first stop on our 12-day fam trip encompassing the South Luangwa, Kafue and Lower Zambezi regions.

Our Chinzombo guide – Innocent – who would stay with us for the first few days of our trip – was everything one could ask for and expect in a professional safari guide: friendly, enthusiastic and exceedingly knowledgeable. Innocent has that special ability to blend and effectively communicate just the right mix of hard facts, story-telling and background information to keep things interesting, irrespective of whether you are watching lions or ant-lions.

We certainly started on a high note. Time & Tide’s Chinzombo camp is very small with only six spacious tented villas, including a two-bedroom, two-bathroom family villa. At the end of a long journey – or perhaps towards the end of a safari – this is the perfect spot to relax on your verandah overlooking a sweeping curve of the Luangwa River. Perfect for letting a pod of hippos lull you to sleep. Or more likely wake you up earlier than you might have wanted to.

Legendary Lodge

Named after a type of tree which grows near the camp, Chinzombo’s natural building materials and vintage accents blend modern style with the best of a traditional bush safari camp. The huge villas come with a king size bed or two ¾ size beds, a luxury mosquito net, and good reading lamps. There are plenty of charging points. The separate enclosed indoor shower and separate toilet ‘room’ were the only less than stellar elements in the total mix.

Tucked beneath ancient msikzi trees, each of the guest villas has a private pool and soaking tub with panoramic views over the river and wildlife. If I’d had more time here I certainly would have spent some of it on the expansive shaded verandah, just the place to unwind with a book or to get pampered with an in-room spa treatment.

Down a winding path, the main lodge beckons; in my case from one of the villas closest to the main area, it was just a short walk. This is where we enjoyed the wonderful, hippo-enhanced dinner of grilled tilapia with rice and a delicious sauce. The two other alternative main course options were fillet of beef or a vegetarian option.

Later that evening I found myself listening to the sounds of lions and hyenas while enjoying a relaxing bath in the oversized tub, with even more hippos grazing away on the huge expanse of short grass leading down to the river. Once heard, the distinctive sound of their large rubbery mouths grasping mouthfuls of vegetation at a regular, measured frequency, is hard to forget. And just as effective as counting sheep, or listening to a soothing voice, to transport you gently across the elusive barrier between waking and sleeping.

The Mfuwe area is one of the most game-rich areas of South Luangwa National Park. Early the following morning we took a short boat trip across the river for a game drive en route to Time & Tide’s Kakuli Camp, which would be our next stop. In addition to all the usual suspects (elephants, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, impalas, pukus, warthogs and an amazing variety of birds) we got lucky with sightings of lions and we witnessed extraordinary interaction between a hyena and a crocodile. More about that in our blog next week. In addition to game drives, activities at Chinzombo include safari walks and boat safaris, when the Luangwa River is high in late summer. The camp is open year-round.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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South Africa

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28th May 2021

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

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African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

28th May 2021

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

My first vivid recollection of African painted dogs is from my childhood, when my siblings and I first started to see these fascinating creatures on self-drive safaris with our parents, inside Kruger National Park in South Africa. Even that many years ago, the painted dogs – also known as ‘wild dogs’ or Cape hunting dogs – were scarce and thinly spread and to see them was a special treat. The park authorities encouraged visitors to report all sightings – which we duly did. We spent a couple of weeks or so in Kruger Park almost every winter for several years, yet I can only recall seeing the ‘wilde honde’ – Afrikaans for wild dogs – on a handful of occasions.

Most memorably, we saw a small pack of painted dogs one afternoon – in the northern part of the park – encircle and attempt to bring down an adult sable antelope. Those of you familiar with sable antelopes will know that these animals possess an impressive pair of long, curved horns with sharp tips. On this day, as we kids and of course mother and father, were watching totally spellbound, the sable antelope wedged its vulnerable hind quarters into a thick bush and faced off the repeatedly charging painted dogs.

Every time one of the dogs would stray a little too close, the sable would viciously swing at it with its scythe-like horns, evoking quick evasive moves on the part of the dog. One after another, the painted dogs would dart in and out, apparently trying to rattle the sable into bolting. We realized early on that this hunting attempt was doomed to fail, with an adult sable antelope simply being too much to handle for a small pack of painted dogs. The dogs figured it out too and after a few more desultory charges, they gave up and trundled off into the bush.

Memories like these go into the ‘indelible’ category and witnessing this play out in front of your very own eyes is what makes wildlife observation – particularly in an African setting with the interaction between predators and prey – as popular and enduring a pastime as it has proven to be.

Seeing and enjoying – and helping to protect and conserve these endangered mammals – continue to be a part of what motivates and inspires many of us in the photographic safari industry.

African painted dogs have been listed as endangered since 1990, with an estimated total population of just over 6,000 of these animals surviving in about 40 subpopulations, all threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, human persecution and disease.

Painted dogs in Botswana

Most of the painted dogs that can readily be seen in the wilderness, are to be found in Southern Africa and more specifically in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. In Botswana, their core area is Ngamiland which includes the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Chobe National Park. There are estimated to be about 40 or so packs of painted dogs in Northern Botswana, containing around 450 to 500 animals in total.

Some time ago, on a game drive out of Dumatau, the Wilderness Safaris property in the Chobe-Linyanti area, we experienced what one might describe as a typical african painted dog scenario: Our afternoon game drive with our Dumatau guide started on a high note. Not long into the drive, we came across an african painted dog pack of nine, resting up and lolling about in a loose group, a couple of the younger ones coming right up to take a look at our vehicle. Over the following few minutes their demeanor changed from relaxed and inquisitive to alert and focused as they started hunting.

We followed the main group as they rambled through the bush, slowly increasing their speed to a steady trot. Soon, the dogs were moving rapidly through fairly dense woodland, changing direction once or twice, but heading in the general direction of the floodplain. Two hyenas could also be seen, following the dogs, in the hope of a ‘free meal’, no doubt. By this time, there were two vehicles in radio contact ‘working’ the hunt, one trying to maintain visual contact with the dogs, and the other one anticipating the direction and speed of the chase. As it happened, we were in the lead towards the end.

As we emerged from the tree-line and descended onto the edge of the floodplain, in a cloud of dust, we came upon the painted dogs just seconds after they had brought down an impala ram. It was a scene of primeval intensity as they devoured their prey, the sound of their teeth tearing the skin and ripping at the sinews all that could be heard other than our muttered exclamations of amazement and awe. Within the space of just five minutes or so the impala was reduced to little more than backbone, skull and horns. We sat there for the longest time just taking it all in, waiting for the last light of dusk to fade away before we slowly made our way back to camp, for dinner”.

Legendary Lodge

Some time later, we were back at Dumatau and on the drive from Chobe airstrip to Dumatau, one of the other passengers mentioned to our guide Ron Masule (head guide at Dumatau) that the only signature Botswana species which I had not seen thus far on my trip, was painted dog. So, he said, ‘Ron better find us some dogs…!’ It didn’t take long. Just after tea we headed out of camp to a spot where the painted dogs had been spotted the previous day. Within 20 minutes or so, I had my first view of what turned out to be a pack of about 7 of these magnificent animals. After negotiating some very rough terrain we stopped on the edge of a small seasonal waterhole where the painted dogs were resting up and settling in for the night. In the fading light, I was happy to get a few good photographs.

Something interesting which I learnt that day, was that various birds, notably the bateleur eagle and the hooded vulture, are closely associated with painted dog sightings. The bateleurs because they want to snag a morsel of meat left behind from the kill, the hooded vultures for a rather more obscure reason. They are coprophagic so the high-protein droppings of the painted dogs are simply a food item to them. Whatever.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats

On another visit to Botswana, on a game drive out of Kwando Safaris’ Kwara Camp, we had been looking for the painted dogs for nearly two days solid, finding and then losing their tracks repeatedly. On our last morning there, we were hot on their trail again, but somehow, frustratingly, could just not close the gap.

At around 3:00 pm or so, we stopped at a small pond for a tea and coffee break. Having gotten out of the vehicle, we were standing around chit-chatting when, from the corner of my eye, I noticed one and then several wild dogs running out of the woodland towards the water. The wild dogs had found us! We spent the next hour in their company. There were six in total, which is about average for a painted dog pack.

Having followed the six wild dogs for a while, we saw them resting up in a grove of Kalahari apple-leaf trees. There were 2 females and 4 males. Again, typical of a painted dog pack which is almost always ‘male-heavy’ as it is the females which leave the pack, when it gets too big or when conditions merit, to become the founder of a new pack. The males stay put. These very handsome animals were quite oblivious to our presence. As is their habit, they engaged in some horseplay, or perhaps more correctly – canine capers. I recall shooting about 200 mediocre shots of African painted dogs. A couple or so turned out ok.

Painted dog behavior and social structure

A Botswana property where we had seen the African painted dogs on more than one location, is Lagoon Camp, which lived up to prior billing as ‘the’ wild dog camp in N. Botswana. We twice bumped into a large pack of dogs there, watching them feed on an impala and observing their strict but amiable social structure, with the pups eating first, then the alpha dogs and finally the others.

This is typical behavior for the painted dogs, which are highly social animals. Breeding is limited to the alpha female, who stays close to the pups in the den, and who discourages pack members from visiting them until they are old enough to eat solid food at three to four weeks of age. By the time the pups are about five weeks old, they start to eat meat regurgitated by pack members. When the pups reach the age of about 10 weeks, the den is abandoned and the youngsters – who by now resemble adults in every way – follow the adults around on hunts. This is when they are allowed to eat first, until they are about a year old.

Together with cheetahs, the African painted dogs are the only primarily diurnal large African predators. We’ve seen them hunt well past sunset, as well. African painted dogs have a high hunting success rate and their average of kills as a percentage of attempts exceeds that of both lions and leopards. The species which feature highest on the painted dogs’ menu are kudu, impala, Thomson’s gazelle (east Africa), bushbuck, reedbuck, lechwe and blue wildebeest. We have personally observed them taking a hare, proving that they will kill pretty much anything they come across.

Painted dogs elsewhere in Africa

Two other areas which are good for African painted dogs are the greater Kruger Park in South Africa and Zimbabwe, notably in Hwange National Park and also Mana Pools National Park. Some of the best camps in the Kruger Park area to visit, to give yourself a decent change at coming across the dogs, are MalaMala, Kirkmans, Singita, Savanna and Dulini in the Sabi Sand Reserve, as well as Kings Camp, Tanda Tula and Kambaku River Sands in the Timbavati Reserve. In Zimbabwe, we have encountered the painted dogs on game drives from Little Makalolo, Linkwasha, Bomani in Hwange and Chikwenya and Ruckomechi in Mana Pools.

In our blog post next week, we will take a look at a few of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties in Southern and East Africa. Places where we’d be happy to wake up every morning, for the rest of our lives…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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10th September 2021

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3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

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Destinations

Nyerere National Park

Ruaha

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14th October 2023

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South Africa

Uganda

5th November 2020

Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

As a child growing up in South Africa I had no concept of chimpanzees as wild animals. Even well

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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

5th November 2020

Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

As a child growing up in South Africa I had no concept of chimpanzees as wild animals. Even well into my teens – by which time I had seen and admired many large mammals in the Kruger National Park – chimpanzees were at best caricatures of real, wild animals. They were movie stars or advertising props, or used to entertain gullible people at circuses or carnivals.

It was not until many years later that I came to know that chimpanzees used in the entertainment industry are invariably babies or youngsters. Around age eight they become practically impossible to control and can no longer be relied upon to perform their unnatural learned tricks such as walking upright or riding a little tricycle. At that point their future becomes even more grim than their past.

So when I saw my first wild chimpanzees in Uganda many years later, it was a jaw-dropping experience. I could hardly believe it. Chimpanzees were real. Here, right in front of me, were several of them practically tumbling down a high tree, crashing through the vegetation and unleashing the weirdest spectrum of noise and sound. The most telling moment was when one chimpanzee hopped onto an horizontal branch and looked straight at me. Or maybe at the person next to me. I felt an instant sense of connection, like locking eyes with another human being. It felt strange and somewhat unsettling, but perhaps not surprising, given the close relationship between chimpanzees and humans. Humans share about 99% of our DNA with chimpanzees, making them our closest living relatives.

Over the years, we’ve done several chimpanzee treks in Uganda (in three different areas), as well as in the Nyungwe Forest area in Rwanda, and most successfully of all, out of Greystoke Mahale in the Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania.

Budongo Forest Reserve, Uganda

My very first chimpanzee trek was in Uganda’s Budongo Forest Reserve. Budongo Forest Reserve is a beautiful rainforest location with incredible biodiversity, including nine different species of primates, 360 species of birds, over 290 different types of butterflies and some of the oldest trees in Uganda. In retrospect, the chimp trek at Budongo seemed a lot less of an ‘effort’ than elsewhere. Perhaps we were just lucky on the day. After a walk of less than 2 miles over fairly even terrain, along a rudimentary trail, we came upon a small group of chimpanzees. Hearing them before seeing them, as is almost always the case. They were initially up in the trees, but not for long.

Soon enough, our small party of travelers were fortunate to see one individual seemingly posing for the cameras, on a horizontal branch in a small clearing. I did not have the right lens otherwise I might have had some really good chimp pics! My short zoom lens was just not enough; a 70-200 or 100-400 zoom would both have been better choices. At one stage several of the chimps literally ‘fell’ from the trees, grasping one or two seemingly flimsy twigs as they came crashing down. You don’t see that kind of stuff in the movies! It was simply awesome!

Budongo Forest can be included on any Murchison Falls itinerary, probably best at the end of the segment, before returning to Entebbe/Kampala. The night prior to the chimp trek at Budongo we slept at Budongo Eco Lodge, a very pleasant ‘no frills’ lodge right on the edge of the forest. The big advantage of staying here is that you can walk literally right out of the lodge, to the start of a chimpanzee trek or birdwatching outing. No additional driving involved.

Kibale Forest, Uganda

A day or so later, on the same Uganda trip, we trekked for chimps at Kibale Forest. While the ‘success rate’ for seeing chimps at Kibali is quite high – more than 90% – chimpanzees are mostly arboreal and often fast-moving. Which means that sometimes you will only catch a few glimpses of them as they scurry from branch to branch, well hidden in thick vegetation, high in a tree. Which is mostly what happened to us on this day. It turned out to be a frustrating and ultimately rather disappointing outing. There was a lot of hiking involved. We trudged around this admittedly beautiful forest for nearly three hours without actually getting any really good looks at the chimps. There were a few of them scampering around the tree-tops but with no unobstructed views or any chance at photography, we all felt a bit glum at the end of the proceedings.

On the way back to the lodge – in the vehicles – we spotted some chimps in the trees and got some decent looks at several of them descending to the forest floor. We tried to get some better looks by following them into the undergrowth but it was not to be…

On a later visit to Kibale two members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team had only slightly better luck with the chimps. The temperature was mild and we were fortunate to have some cloud cover. Upon entering the park, we met some of the guides for a pre-hike briefing. We learned a couple of useful tips, for example, that there are ants in the forest and it is highly recommended that you roll your socks over your pants to prevent the ants from biting your ankles while you’re looking up at the chimps. On the day, there were two groups of 6 trekkers, each having one guide and any number of porters to carry your gear. Getting a porter is highly recommended since you need to carry your own water. The forest itself was very thick but the paths were well defined and the terrain was quite flat and easy.

Almost immediately the guide spotted a female chimpanzee with a baby, high up in a tree. They were feeding on a fig tree but apparently the fruit was not quite ripe yet. The chimps were difficult to see at that height due to the dense foliage, and after a few minutes we moved on. The guide knew the location of other fig trees so we traveled to the edge of the forest to see if we couldn’t find a larger troupe. No luck there. Fortunately, word came by radio that the other group had spotted some chimps a short distance away. Off we went. Since the sun had not really come out during the day the chimps were still in the trees where it was cool. This made for poor visibility but with some patience we managed to get some useful photos. Overall the Kibale experience was good – the success rate for spotting chimps is quite high. Visitors are only allowed one hour with the chimps and it goes by fast.

Kyambura Gorge, Uganda

Our third chimp trekking outing in Uganda was at Kyambura Gorge. At Kyambura the maximum group size is up to 8 and the guides are armed. There are fewer chimps in the gorge than at Kibale, but it is a much smaller area. The success rate is solid – if not not quite as good as at Kibale.

After another briefing from the guides we set off into the gorge. The decline is extremely sharp and you really need some good solid hiking boots. There is a river in the middle of the gorge with paths running along both shores and a bridge connecting them. Luckily for us when we got to the bottom we immediately heard the chimps and our guide lead us straight to them. We spotted a large 35 year old male on the ground and proceeded to follow him as best we could. He would walk for a while and stop and glance at us and then continue his walk. He wasn’t distressed at all by our presence. Eventually he stopped and our entire group caught up so we were all able to take photos. Strangely, though, the chimp doubled back and actually wound up walking past us at close range (about a foot) which worried our guide. Thankfully he just passed right on by. It was an incredible sighting.

Mahale Mountains, Tanzania

Greystoke Mahale is tucked into a narrow sandy strip along the edge of Lake Tanganyika, below the densely forested Mahale Mountains with the mountains of the Democratic Republic of Congo visible about 30 miles across the lake. The mountain and the lake. Most people would be hard pressed to pick a favorite or decide which of the two is the most dominant feature. They are both equally impressive and both essential to the Greystoke experience.

Mahale is best known as a sanctuary and research area for a group of about 60 habituated chimpanzees, plus several hundred more wild ones which inhabit the national park. Having trekked for chimpanzees previously in three different areas of Uganda I can say that the Mahale experience was by far the best I have experienced. The chimps are very well habituated and hence very tolerant of humans being close to them. The leafy ever-green forest habitat is superb and makes for a perfect backdrop. If you’ve never seen chimps before and want to do so, or if they are your favorite animals, a visit to the Mahale Mountains National Park should definitely be on your short list.

Even if there were no chimpanzees here it would be a more than worthwhile destination. Amazing views, the super deep-water swimming opportunities, fishing, kayaking, birding, hiking – the area has it all and more. We spent quite a bit of time boating (on a motorized dhow) but it is also possible to just relax and take it easy. The beach at Greystoke rivals many a coastal resort area, with the prettiest lake imaginable spilling out onto a white sandy beach.

On our first afternoon we spent 30 minutes or so suspended in what is estimated to be 17% of all of the freshwater in the entire world. Lake Tanganyika is one of the world’s cleanest lakes due to the absence of industry, and that is not likely to change soon.

The following day we woke up to what promised to be another warm and rather muggy morning on the shore of Lake Tanganyika. And so it was. At breakfast at 08:00A we were informed that the chimpanzees – our focus for the day – had been sighted and that they were about one hour’s ‘gentle walk’ away. So off we went single file into the forest up and down but mostly just up and often rather steeply so. We went through a couple of dry rocky streams with a little water here and there, sometimes scrambling up a slope, other times crouching beneath some low branches.

We stopped a couple of times for water (you carry your own water bottle & the guides provide re-fills) and to take a breath of air. Without exception, we were sweating heavily and feeling the strain of two days’ worth of solid exercise.

As we approached their position, we could hear the chimps long before we saw them. They were being very loud, making a range of sounds including some exuberant whoops and screams. And then, without much introduction, there they were. First one chimp high in a tree, then another one sliding down a tree stump and soon enough there were seven or eight of them visible in every direction. By then we had donned surgical masks to prevent the transmission of colds and other human ailments to the chimps.

Over the next hour or so we moved positions several times as the chimps either descended from or ascended into the trees. We observed quite a bit of interaction between individuals: young and old, they all apparently know their place and respect authority.

We could see the chimps very well but photographic conditions were not great. Low light inside the forest gallery, and severe backlighting issues against the bright sky. Several of the younger chimps did their best to show off their acrobatic skills but in the poor light and with limited visibility (too many leaves and twigs!) it was just about impossible to capture the action. I did manage a few decent portraits and some limited interaction, mostly feeding and grooming.

Every now and then we’d follow one or two of the chimps along one of the many footpaths in the forest. Our guide Robert knew all the chimps by name, sex, age and rank, and gave us ample warning when a ‘naughty’ individual was close by. We observed individuals of all ages ranging from about 6 months to well over 50 years. They were mostly quiet and not very demonstrative.

When our allotted 1-hour viewing time was over, we lowered the cameras, took a last look at the chimps who were moving into thicker bush and re-grouped a short distance away to have a drink of water. It was a happy group of campers who trudged back to the lodge. We were all very tired, perhaps even a bit dehydrated because of the heavy exertion in the hot humid conditions… Nobody cared – we had seen the chimps!

By the time we got back to the lodge just over 3 hours had elapsed since we first set out earlier that morning. It felt great to enjoy a cup of tea before we took the sandy path back to our respective rooms for a much-needed shower.

Mahale Mountains NP, Tanzania – Trek #2

The following morning’s chimp trek was every bit as much fun and exciting as the previous day. Starting from the Japanese research station, the going was a bit easier than the previous day. Even so, by the time we got onto the chimps, a good 45 minutes had elapsed and it was deja vu all over again. We were hot and sweaty in the humid conditions. Being overcast, the temperature was several degrees lower than the previous day, which helped somewhat.

It turns out that despite their seemingly idyllic situation, the chimps were far from living in a cocoon of innocence. They are tangled up in political and sexual spats and fights on a never-ending basis, and the maneuvering and plotting can be Machiavellian. Imagine pretending to be removing ectoparasites from a rival, but not doing so in fact. Thus setting up the unwitting beneficiary/victim for a long-lasting negative outcome and potentially debilitating illness.

For a while there, we became very much part of the troop of chimps, sitting around not far from them, and feeling their glances on us as they casually ambled by. We took great care not to get in the way of some of the ‘naughty boys’ such as Christmas, who is known to charge and scare an unsuspecting tourist every now and then.

An hour or so later we were all quite ready to take off our facemasks and to return to camp for some tea. Just like the previous day, the total duration of the excursion was just over 3 hours.

Here are a few pointers which might be useful for future Mahale chimp trekkers:

Bert’s Mahale Mountains Chimp Trekking Hints

* It is definitely a good thing to be fit and relatively agile as there is some scrambling (up and down) and rock-stepping to be done.

* In the warmer months dress appropriately (long trousers to protect legs and lightweight long or short-sleeved shirts with good ventilation/absorption). There were no tsetse flies or other biting flies present within the forest interior.

* Good boots with grippy soles are 100% necessary. You could be in for a tough time with the wrong shoes. No flip-flops!

* Light is an issue in the forest interior so to get decent pics of the chimps, bring a fast (f2.8) lens in the 70-200 mm range, and preferably a camera that can produce acceptable images at a high ISO setting. Long telephoto lenses are not essential – you will get closer to the chimps than you might anticipate.

* Drink plenty of water before the start of the trek and also during. Dehydration is a major concern during the warmer months and it can sneak up on you with very little warning.

* Definitely go on more than just one chimp trek as they are all quite different & the chimp behaviour and interaction vary greatly day to day. If you’ve seen one you certainly haven’t seen them all.

In our blog post next Friday we will be taking a closer look at the big cats of Mashatu Game Reserve in south-eastern Botswana. This little-known area is nowadays one of the most reliable big cat destinations in Southern Africa with lions, leopards and cheetahs seen by most visitors who spend three or four nights in the area.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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