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Zimbabwe

A Visit to Hwange Game Reserve, Zimbabwe

20th August 2020

A Visit to Hwange Game Reserve, Zimbabwe


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A Visit to Hwange Game Reserve, Zimbabwe

KHULU BUSH CAMP, HWANGE

After spending several days in Victoria Falls, my next destination was Hwange National Park.  On this day I left by road for Hwange, traveling a distance of about 200 km (120 miles), mostly on a good asphalt road. It took about 2.5 hours with a short stop near Hwange town, to complete the drive.  While the route is not spectacular in terms of scenery, there are some nice teak trees along the way, and eventually some good sized baobabs as well.

Hwange is Zimbabwe’s largest and best known game reserve, located in the mostly dry and practically river-less north western portion of  Zimbabwe, bordering on Botswana.  The terrain is mostly a mix of teak, mopane, and mixed combretum woodland, becoming more Kalahari-like the further west one goes.


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The life blood and also the heartbeat of Hwange is a series of approximately 60 artificially maintained pumped water holes which support and sustain the wildlife through the long dry season which stretches from about May through October/November. All of Hwange’s 30,000-plus elephants and most of its other big game species such as buffalo, giraffe, zebra, eland and their predators rely on the pumped pans to keep going in the dry season. This of course makes Hwange a year-round tourist destination.  The availability of water keeps large numbers of animals around at all times; without it Hwange would be a beautiful semi-desert area, largely devoid of big game. Even with the pumps and pans the area is still subject to occasional severe droughts.  

Khulu Bush Camp camp was my first stop in Hwange.   It is a small six roomed, tented property just outside the park on a private reserve about 40 minutes drive from Hwange Main camp on the eastern edge of the park.


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In terms of size, quality of guiding, and level of luxury, this camp hits all the right notes: small and intimate and overlooking a pumped pan which is used by a passing parade of animals including a large herd of about 250 or so elephants.  Some of the elephants provide guests with exceptionally close up looks when they drink from the small camp pool which is built into the deck in front of the lounge/dining room area. It is highly entertaining to watch elephants of all shapes and sizes walking right up to the edge of the pool, and sticking their trunks into the clear water,  relishing the taste of the clean, mineralized borehole water.  Their drinking antics can be safely observed from as little as 3 meters from the animals.

Dinner at Khulu Bush camp was a convivial and interesting evening with one of Southern Africa’s top cheetah and lion experts – Paul Funston of New York-based Panthera – talking to us about the plight of various predators but notably lions, in various conservation areas all over Africa and specifically in the KAZA region of south western Angola. We learned about Pantera‘s efforts to coordinate and tabulate anti poaching activities.


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JOZIBANINI BUSH CAMP, HWANGE

By mid morning on this day I was winding my way along some of Hwange’s least known sandy trails on what was practically an all day transfer from the eastern edge of the park to Jozibanini camp in the remote south western edge of the park. Jozi is the kind of place which appeals to adventurous travelers who want to experience the African wilderness much like it looked and felt like 30 or 40 years ago. There’s practically nobody else around and certainly no other vehicles or camps anywhere close.  Jozibanini provides an exciting and even exhilarating glimpse into the vast area which makes up the bulk of Hwange National Park beyond the relatively small tourist areas.  A massive wilderness area stretching west and north, more Kalahari-like than any other part of the park.


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As we drove past a series of pans along the way, the typical massive sandy colored Kalahari dune landscape became apparent, steeper on the windward and with less of a gradient on the leeward side. Magnificent teak forests dominate the region, with extensive mopane forests and scrub on clay-heavy terrain covering the inter dune troughs.

The pretty campsite at Jozibanini overlooks a pan and a fringe of woodland, with a low sunken hide visible a few meters away from the edge of the water.  It is ideal for observing particularly elephants but also other species at extremely close range.  Spending time in the hide (which has its own small bathroom)  is one of the best activities available at the camp. Others include foot safaris, mountain bike safaris and game drives, the latter usually in the form of drives  to nearby waterholes.


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Over a couple of days in the area, we observed a large number of elephants, a good sized herd of 150+ buffalo, some zebras, wildebeest, kudu, and impala.  Remarkably, we had two different sightings of gemsbok (Oryx), rarely seen in Hwange, and no less than three honey badgers on the drive out. Spending two or three nights of Jozibanini is not just about watching elephants drink and cavort right in front of your eyes as you photograph them, but that is definitely one of the highlights here.  

Jozibanini is at the end of the road, literally on the edge of nowhere and driving or flying there means escaping the world of mass tourism altogether.  Not that Hwange is really overly busy in any real sense but here you enter an area where the wilderness in all its raw, natural beauty dominates totally. The teak forests here are among a handful in Zimbabwe that have never been commercially harvested.  And it shows.


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Driving into and through a series of them reopens one’s mind to the recuperative and remedial effects of being exposed to a truly wild and natural environment. It is completely devoid of human presence for weeks and sometimes months at a time.

One morning we followed some lion tracks on foot having heard the cats vocalizing earlier, in a westerly direction. Following Imvelo MD Mark Butcher and tracker Ernest through the bush as they meticulously tracked the animals, was again one of the highlights of my stay at Jozi. No we did not find the lions but clearly it was almost beside the point. Knowing that they were around, and actively tracking them in this terrain and setting were really all that mattered. We did  get close to a breeding heard of elephant in a safe and controlled manner – with Butch demonstrating and successfully executing a perfect foot safari experience. The object being to approach and observe the animals without them ever being fully aware of your presence, and thus becoming agitated or alert. The elephants in the remote wilderness are wary, not being habituated to the sounds of vehicles or the sight of humans on foot. Consequently, it is even more exhilarating getting relatively close to them.


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LITTLE MAKALOLO CAMP

From Jozi we drove to the southern region of Hwange where a collection of perhaps 10 or so safari camps and lodges attract a modest but growing number of wildlife enthusiasts and birders to the area. The most popular time to visit being the dry season from June through October when viewing is good and game activity picks up noticeably around the pumped water holes, most of the natural pans being dry by then.

My destination this morning was Little Makalolo Camp, a small six-roomed property located in a large concession covering some of southern Hwange’s most coveted and most productive wildlife areas.

The camp itself and the rooms are just right, in my personal scale of things.  Small – just five rooms – with a high degree of personal attention from the super friendly and helpful staff. The quality of the guiding was exemplary and the location is excellent. Halfway between two of the best game viewing areas in Hwange being Ngweshla and Ngamo pan.


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Unlike some of the areas in the northern part of Hwange where the game viewing in the low-demand season becomes challenging due to thick bush, Little Makakolo and its sister camps Davison’s and Linkwasha are good year round. The reason being the presence of large open flats or pans resembling parts of East Africa which attract lots of grazers as soon as the rains come in November or December, sometimes later. These species such as wildebeest,  zebra and others keenly seek out the freshly emerging vegetation on the open pans. In the dry season the number of grazers declines but elephants, buffalo and other mammals are attracted in much bigger numbers to the pumped water holes.

Over the course of three game drives at Little Makalolo I enjoyed some of the best game viewing of the entire trip with two of the drives on par with the best of my northern Botswana experiences.


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We witnessed two cheetahs attempting to take down a young waterbuck (unsuccessfully) and we were in close proximity to a pride of lions actively hunting for buffalo within sight of the camp.  It is not surprising that at Little Makalolo a guide with a gun in hand, escorts guests back to their tents at night.   We had some of our best views of the trip of elephants walking along the grassy expanse of Ngamo Pan, going to or coming back from water.  In the golden later afternoon light they were beautifully lit – every photographer’s dream subject.  Likewise, spending time at the Logpile hide close to Little Mak, was a highlight.  No driving around bumpy roads required.  Just sitting and waiting, with herd after herd of elephant appearing from the treeline and making straight for the water’s edge.  Watching them initially just slake their thirst, and then start to relax and become playful, squirting water around, with the young bulls jousting and testing their strength.  There are few things quite as peaceful and relaxing to observe wildlife interaction and behavior in a setting like this.  Africa at its best.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

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A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

In late May last year, just after noon on what was a Tuesday, I stepped into a seven seater Mahindra Airvan at Saile Airstrip on the edge of the Linyanti floodplain in Northern Botswana. A click of a seatbelt and a short safety briefing later, it was time to go. The young pilot pushed the power throttle to its fully forward position, released the brakes and in less than a minute we went hurtling into the blue Botswana sky.

For me, bush flying will never get old.  With the passage of time, I have come to enjoy and appreciate it more and more, since my first ‘white-knuckle’ flight in a Cessna 206 – also in Botswana – in 1990. Over the last almost 30 years the pilots have become younger and more diverse in terms of gender and nationality, new types of aircraft have arrived on the scene, and operation and safety standards have improved.  The fun and excitement never went away.


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Bush flying has always been different. This is ‘real’ flying with a sense of immediacy, noise, speed and a tinge of danger.  All lacking from commercial flying. Even so, if you have yet to strap yourself into the seat of a single prop aircraft in which you can make eye contact with the pilot as he or she looks back right before takeoff, there is no need to be nervous. These young persons have acquired excellent flying skills, are totally safety conscious and have to be exceptionally skilled to have snagged a flying job in Botswana.  It’s a plum position.

Just over 30 minutes later we were in Kasane.  And 20 minutes later I was in a boat crossing the Chobe river into Zambia. The landing in Zambia is a bit jarring, having to negotiate one’s way along a somewhat rickety gangplank, amid industrial debris and the grimy, smelly environment of a working dockside. Thankfully the immigration process was quick and painless, taken care of by my Wilderness Safaris driver Angel.  I paid $50 for a univisa, which allows unlimited entries into Zimbabwe and Zambia for several months.


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TONGABEZI LODGE, ZAMBIA

By 2:30 p.m. I arrived at Tongabezi where the affable and efficient general manager Mark showed me around and helped me with a quick check in, almost immediately afterwards followed by a delightful lunch overlooking the Zambezi.  Which was flowing strongly.

About an hour or so later – my last mode of transport for the day being a small aluminum skiff which deposited me on a small island in the middle of the Zambezi – I had made it to my final destination of the day, Sindabezi.  Here, I would spend the night.  Sindabezi Island is remote, private and the ideal spot for someone open to new adventures.  After a peaceful night’s sleep, I woke up not to sunlight, but to a moonbeam.  I had been sleeping within sight and sound of one of Africa‘s mightiest rivers, right in front and below me.  A nearby set of rapids stirring up the most soothing white noise of all. Sleeping virtually outside with just a few light curtains between you and the great African outdoors. There’s more.  You’re attended to personally by several friendly and efficient staff members, enjoying delicious food from a varied and creative menu with lots of local options, and choosing from a huge list of included and optional activities. Being severely time limited, I opted for an afternoon sundowner cruise which was relaxing and fun, ending at a drinks stop where I met many of the guests staying at Tongabezi Lodge.  It was a most agreeable conclusion to a busy day.


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One final plus point about Sindabezi Island: good fast Wi-Fi on an island which runs on solar power.   All the lodges out there with feeble excuses about sub-par Wi-Fi service.  Take note. It can be done.

The next morning I woke up to an unusual sight. A bank of fog had formed over the surface of the Zambezi resulting in a spectacular if somewhat spooky sunrise, the sun itself and its light reflected, refracted and obscured by the fog. The photographs hardly do it justice but I took a few nonetheless.

After a super breakfast and catching up on a few emails I went back to Tongabezi Lodge for a site inspection. I was really pleased to see that both the houses and cottages at Tongabezi were fantastic and I would highly recommend the property for a Victoria Falls stay.


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Tongabezi has the most magnificent trees and gardens including an extensive vegetable and herb garden, both featuring heavily in the planning and execution of meals and drinks.

As previously alluded to, the list of included and optional activities is exhaustive, ranging from sundowner cruises to village visits to micro light flights over the falls. Tongabezi was then in the final stages of an extensive upgrade, and their large bar and lounge had been completed, with a new reception landing area.  With a new office already in place Tongabezi was looking great.  By all means go there.


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THORNTREE LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

By late morning I was dropped off at African Bush Camps’ Thorntree Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, inside the Zambezi National Park. This property has been setting a new high standard for deluxe boutique accommodation in the fully inclusive lodge category, with 10 beautifully designed villas, each with a large deck and private plunge pool, looking out over the Zambezi. The rooms have every feature one could wish for: air conditioning, Wi-Fi, striking glass and screens, and adequate lighting.  Each villa has a mini bar, tea and coffee making facilities, indoor and outdoor showers and an indoor tub, a large bathroom with separate enclosed toilet, a personal safe and mosquito netting.

The main area is an impressive – mostly glass enclosed – structure and there’s also a spa and gym on the large grounds.  The lodge offers a full range of activities.  The standard of hospitality which I experienced at Thorntree was exceptionally high.  My day started with a peaceful and rather quiet Zimbabwe river cruise with the Thorntree activities manager – a pleasant change of pace from the hectic pace of the previous day.


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En route to Zimbabwe that afternoon, I made an hour-long stop to observe the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side. I had done this outing approximately a year ago so I knew what to expect, with the Zambezi being in flood stage. Again it was an awesome sight to behold. While the view of the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side is not the best when the river is low – from September to about December or so – it is quite satisfactory and even spectacular when the Zambezi is running at flood or near flood stage.

In fact the closest one can get to the actual flow of the water – to experience an effect much like that of seeing Niagara Falls from the Canadian side – is a spot close to the entrance to the falls reserve, on the Zambia side. Powerful and mesmerizing. You inadvertently stop to think about the survival chances of someone going down there in a barrel. Only to conclude that the prospect of the person surviving to tell the tale is a big fat zero.

Crossing the wet and slippery Devil’s footpath bridge across a side gorge, you reach some more good view points over the eastern portion of the falls, observing the Angels’ armchair and the famous Devil’s pool, popular attractions for breathtakingly close approaches to the abyss.  Only doable when the water in the Zambezi is low.


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BATONKA GUEST LODGE

Having been driven across the Zambezi and into Zimbabwe, my first stop was the Batonka Lodge, an all-around delightful property with 16 well-equipped rooms, less than a mile away from the falls, in the residential portion of Victoria Falls town.

The rooms are spacious, effectively air-conditioned, there is Wi-Fi and even television with 10 channels. The meals were excellent. I overheard a guest complimenting the chef on a main course of pork medallions served with a caper sauce.  I concurred.  They were expertly prepared and deftly served and not unreasonably pricey by Victoria Falls standards.


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Batonka Lodge has a nice pool in a sunny spot, there are both indoor and outdoor dining options as well as some comfortable inside and outside lounge areas, and a cozy bar.

Particularly for someone who already has a couple of scheduled Vic Falls activities planned – and who does not “have“ to be within walking distance from the falls – it is a good and affordable option with no high season premium.


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GORGES LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

After lunch that day, and a road transfer of about 35 minutes, I checked into one of the excellent tented rooms at Little Gorges, a five room tented addition to the well-established Gorges Lodge.

Gorges and Little Gorges are ideal for guests who prefer to be away from the helicopter noise and hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls town, and are keen to experience a more peaceful environment with great black eagle viewing, as well as experiencing an authentic local village and school experience.   Included in the rate is a daily round-trip transfer to Victoria Falls town for a guided tour of the falls or some other Victoria Falls activity.

My afternoon black eagle activity did not have the desired outcome which was a good photo of a black eagle in flight.  As is often the case with wildlife, it was circumstantial. A male black eagle did in fact fly right over us but I had too much lens and there were some trees in the way.  Photography issues.  I did manage to get a half decent pic of a black eagle sitting in a tree close to one of the tented rooms. Plus I had a great chat with co manager Chris, enjoyed the superb sundowners snacks and watched as the sun slowly set over Batoka gorge.  A worthwhile experience unto itself.


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Dinner at Gorges was quite enjoyable.  As before it was a tasty home style meal with a grilled steak, grilled potato and two veg plus an excellent malva pudding for dessert.

Tent number one at Little Gorges is right on the edge of the Batoka gorge with the sound of the Zambezi rushing over some rapids, creating a soothing backdrop, making it a perfectly splendid place to fall asleep. Which I promptly did after dinner. There is nothing like a solid eight hours in likely some of the cleanest air in Africa to recharge the batteries.

Breakfast at Gorges Lodge could have benefited from a little work in the way of presentation and ‘wow’ factor; and perhaps a French press instead of drip brewed coffee. Even so, the cooked breakfast was perfectly fine – no issues with that.


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VICTORIA FALLS RIVER LODGE

Rather earlier than was necessary – which caused me to forgo an activity at Gorges – I was transferred back to Victoria Falls and from there by boat from the Shearwater jetty for a pleasant 10 minute or so river trip to the Victoria Falls River Lodge.

Although brief, my stay at the Victoria Falls River Lodge was pleasant. I particularly liked the main lodge dining room area with great views over the Zambezi. The room was spacious and well equipped with an outdoor shower, indoor bathtub and plenty of space. I always appreciate adequate lighting. The food – both lunch and dinner – was a notch above the usual lodge fare.


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My afternoon activity was a Bushtracks jet-boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi, advertised as getting to within 800 meters of the falls. While I enjoyed the activity a lot, I don’t think we got closer than 1600 meter to the falls. The biggest advantage was the fact that closer to the falls, in shallower water, there were no other boats around to spoil the serenity of the area. It was only us and one other jet-boat – also from Bushtracks – in the area. We spotted quite a bit of wildlife including hippo and elephant. Plus points for Victoria Falls River Lodge were the proximity to the Zambezi, the quality of the hospitality and guiding, and also – somewhat surprisingly to me – the game-viewing in the Zambezi National Park within which the lodge is located. We had some excellent views of elephants, giraffes, zebras, waterbuck and a couple other species.  Game-viewing in the park improves as the dry season progresses.

Next stop:  Hwange National Park.  To be featured in our blog post next Friday.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Lower Zambezi, Mana Pools & Gonarezhou
ANABEZI LODGE, LOWER ZAMBEZI


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Lower Zambezi, Mana Pools & Gonarezhou

ANABEZI LODGE, LOWER ZAMBEZI

Over dinner some years ago at the River Club upstream from Vic Falls, I was gently chided about a comment I had made about the Zambezi River.  “It is the Zambezi.  Not the Zambezi River”.  I stand corrected.   Either way, the Zambezi is Africa.    Elephants drink from it, swim across it and are inescapably part of its allure.  It is home to thousands of hippos and crocodiles, and what can be more African than that.  Tiger fish live in it, as do giant catfish known as Vundu.  African Fish Eagles patrol its banks, their unmistakable, plaintive call often heard well before the birds are seen.  People as diverse as the Lozi, Tonga, Shona, Chena and Nsenga rely on this ‘river of life’ for food, transportation and irrigation.  The Zambezi is mighty, powerful  and  mysterious.  It even has its own river god, Nyami Nyami.  And of course it carves its way through and enhances some of Africa’s most spectacular places such as Victoria Falls, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi.


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So it was good to be back on this most African of rivers, on what was a return trip to the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia last May.  To get there, my fellow travelers and I flew from Lusaka Airport to Jeki Airstrip, from where it took about an hour by road to the camp where we’d be spending the next couple of days:  Anabezi.  I had heard much about the property in advance and I am happy to report that the actual experience was even better than the anticipated one.


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For one thing, my room was massive, as was everything in it from the king size bed with mosquito net canopy, the large tub (and plenty of hot water always available), a lounge area, outside deck and both inside and outside showers.  Best of all was the view over the Zambezi.

The Zambezi is central to what Anabezi is all about and over the course of our stay, it featured prominently in the activities on offer.  Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.  Sundowner drinks were served on an island –  a fun variation on the theme.  Dinner did not disappoint either with a tasty dish of peri-peri rock lobster tails being the main course.


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The undisputed highlight of the day was a leopard which walked by in clear view, in front of camp.  At least one first-time visitor to Africa got super-lucky to see a leopard on her first day in Zambia!

The following day we enjoyed a game drive and walk, taking in the beautiful, striking terrain with simply spectacular stands of trees in sandy areas, with a side-channel of the Zambezi flowing by.  Game-viewing was impressive with good looks of lions, buffaloes, hippo, waterbuck, kudu, impala and some great birds.


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Our walk with our Anabezi guide John was highly informative, fun, even engrossing.  On a site inspection at nearby Amanzi camp we could see that it was a slightly scaled down version of Anabezi with arguably an even better location (of the main area), which is elevated well above the Zambezi with fantastic down-river views.  The rooms at Amanzi are similar to the ones at Anabezi except they don’t have plunge pools or bathtubs.  Amanzi only has 4 rooms with rooms 3 and 4 being quite close to each other, ideal for a family or similar group.


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We enjoyed yet another splendid meal on this day, with grilled kabobs, salads, and grilled beef patties. After high tea at around 3:30 pm, we departed on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes.  I would highly recommend this activity for all camp visitors:  it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours. As we completed our canoe trip we were greeted at the river bank by our guide for a game drive and sundowners.


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Sundowners that evening were followed by an excellent dinner consisting of fire-roasted chicken with lemon and herbs, served with french fries and a mixed salad, followed by a lovely dessert.

Should you consider adding or including Anabezi on your next or first trip to the Lower Zambezi?  For sure.  Just along the boardwalk – even without leaving camp – I saw a leopard, lions, buffaloes, hippo and elephant, over the course of just 2 days.  So great game-viewing, friendly and accommodating staff (one of whom even ran with me on a nearby airstrip), beautiful rooms and as diverse an array of activities as anybody could want on safari.


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KAYILA CAMP, LOWER ZAMBEZI

From Anabezi, we traveled upstream on the Zambezi for about 2 and a half hours, to Kayila Lodge which was just then opening in a beautiful spot high over the Zambezi, just outside the Lower Zambezi National Park.  The camp has a classic thatched safari design, with solid brick and mortar construction with high roof clearance, in each of the four huge chalets.  The chalet I was in – #1 – has a bath and indoor shower and a great balcony as well as two queen beds.


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Our afternoon game drive out of Kayila delivered plenty of elephants, kudu, impala and also some Cape buffaloes and duiker.  The birdlife in the area is prolific.  In addition to game drives, Kayila also has boating, catch-and-release fishing and walking safaris.  One would do well to spend a couple of nights at Kayila first, and then do the boat transfer on the Zambezi to either Anabezi or Amanzi


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JOHN’S CAMP, MANA POOLS

From the jetty at Mana Pools, it was a short trip of about 25 minutes to John’s Camp, a small (6-tented) bush camp on the edge of the Zambezi floodplain.

The camp made a good first impression with all of the staff including camp manager Milo meeting us on arrival.  John’s camp has quite a reputation which is clearly well-earned and not in a boring way.  At John’s Camp, when you hear a bell being rung, it doesn’t mean that lunch or dinner is ready.  It means that there are lions in camp. If you are in your room you are instructed to stay there until told the coast is clear.  Lunch was splendid – as were the other meals here which included some super tasty sushi (what a surprise here in the bush!) and a traditional South African ‘braai’ or barbecue.


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The comfortable rooms at John’s camp were quite simple yet functional with en suite flush toilet and bucket shower.  There was a more than ample supply of hot water when needed.  The room also had a small vanity, a dresser cube, and two twin beds or a double bed on a sisal natural rug.  Best of all (at least from room #5), I had amazing views over the Zambezi floodplain and the Zambia escarpment in the background.


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A late afternoon game drive was rather quiet and uneventful for Mana Pools, but that is how it goes on safari.  The animals move around in real time and are not always present on command.  We did enjoy an excellent sundowner stop at Long Pool where I was lucky to snap a photo of a heron taking a ride on the back of a hippo.

That evening, after yet another enjoyable dinner, we took a look at John’s Camp’s 5-meter high star-bed, where two people can sleep out under the stars in a mosquito-net enclosed platform with two mattresses next to each other, and a trap door which closes for safety.


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GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK – CHILO GORGE LODGE

Who should be pencilling in a visit to Gonarezhou in their planner, for the next time they make it to Southern Africa?  Curious, adventurous travelers who want to take a step back, away from the over-traveled safari spots which feature in way too many humdrum itineraries.  In Gonarezhou you will find the Africa of old, with plenty of wildlife but thankfully not many other visitors.  There will be the odd morning or afternoon where wildlife sightings might not be prolific, but when you do find something, it will likely be yours and yours alone.  Over the course of more than two days of driving around Gonarezhou early in the dry season, I can’t recall seeing even one other vehicle.  Take your time and spend several days there and you will be rewarded in many ways.  Looking back on our time there, some of my most vivid memories are of just how quiet and peaceful it was with no ambient noise or signs of civilization.  Yet with an undertone of excitement and a sense of adventure as we were wandering into spots where few other visitors had ever been to before, and interacting with wildlife not totally habituated to the presence of vehicles and people. Gonarezhou lions are going to look at you in a different way than a Serengeti pride who sees dozens of vehicles on any given day, year round.  And Gonarezhou elephants may even take a more active interest in you, depending on the circumstances.


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From John’s Camp we transferred by road to the Mana West airstrip for a private charter flight of about 1 hr 40 minutes to Chilo Gorge Lodge, alongside the Gonarezhou National Park.

The lodge is beautifully located on the edge of a magnificent gorge in the Save River in far southwestern Zimbabwe.  From the camp deck, there is an expansive view of the cliffs on the other side of the river, forests left and right, and a massive sandy beach stretching a mile or more downstream.  The deck overlooking the Save River is unquestionably the heart of the property; it is where most of the delicious meals are served and where guests gather for drinks, conversation or simply to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, any time of the day.  Across the river is where you will find the little-known and lightly explored Gonarezhou National Park which we would be exploring the following day.


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I spent the night in a spacious and well-equipped room with a shower and separate toilet and plenty of space.  Best of all was the amazing view over the Save River to the left of camp.  What a spot to catch up on one’s notes or look through your photographs of the day!  My room might not be suitable for everyone as I had to negotiate lots of steps getting there and back.

Our afternoon activity was a village visit and palm wine demonstration.  The village visit was done in a ‘drive-through’ fashion, observing the daily goings-on in this remarkable village of about 6,000 people, tucked into the forest, with very little to zero forest destruction.


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The next morning we set out on a long drive to Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe’s second largest national park.  Along the way we crossed over the wide Runde River by boat.  Gonarezhou was impressive from the word go.  Beautiful scenery with lots of huge baobab trees, many of which were protected from elephants with wire or rocks around them.

By midday, we reached a simply spectacular lookout point at Chilojo Cliffs.  The cliffs are a series of massive sandstone precipices facing mostly east, towards the Runde River.  A bit later, we had lunch at the Ivory Trail Adventure camp, with a table set under the tree canopy, with again awesome views of the Chilojo Cliffs, this time from ‘river level’ up.


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The Ivory Trail is an adventurous combination of a foot and vehicle safari, exploring various spots in Gonarezhou.  Generally speaking the mornings are spent walking and the afternoon driving.  Our next stop – where we would spend the night – was Chilo Tented Camp (Makore Camp) which has 4 tents plus an auxiliary.

One thing to know about Gonarezhou is that the animals are still on the skittish side, although one can anticipate this changing, as more visitors add this rugged, remote place to their Zimbabwe trip itineraries.  Over a couple of days in the area, we experienced good all-round game-viewing with one large herd of buffalo,  several small groups of zebra, waterbuck, kudu, impala and a solitary female lion.  We also enjoyed several elephant sightings – some by themselves and a memorable breeding herd of about 10 to 12 elephants.  They at first seemed to be inquisitive, lifting their heads in our direction, with their trunks testing the air.  With practically no warning, two females then charged in the direction of the vehicle.  This was no mock charge – they were serious.  We retreated down the road quite safely,  impressed with the feistiness of the Gonarezhou elephants!


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Having spent the night at Chilo Tented Camp, we made our way back to Chilo Gorge the following morning.  Along the way we experienced an exceptionally good sighting of a buffalo herd in great morning light.  Also zebras, impala, kudu, and several herds of elephants.

At Chilo Gorge, we observed the antics of a pod of hippo in the Save River below camp, before heading off by air to Bulawayo; our next stop would be the Matoppos National Park, to be covered in our next blog installment…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

30th April 2020

“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro


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“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

Having successfully reached the summit of Kilimanjaro twice in three years, most recently along the Rongai Route in Feb 2020, while training mostly at close to sea level, here’s Fish Eagle Safaris founder Bert Duplessis’ tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb:


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#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.


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Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.


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#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.


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#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.


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#4: Eat and drink regularly.

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.


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Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.


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#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.


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#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.


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In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

i)   Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly.

ii)   Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.

iii)   Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.

iv)   Barbell front squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!

v)   Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.

vi)   Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Stand with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance.


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Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells.

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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