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Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia

12th August 2021

Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia


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Dinner with the hippos – Time & Tide Chinzombo Camp, Zambia

Dinner on safari in the African bush takes on many forms.  At Time & Tide’s Chinzombo Camp on the banks of the Luangwa River in Zambia in late July this year, it came with a side attraction of grazing hippos.  Those of you who have been on safari before – in areas where hippos are prevalent – will know that these giant herbivores leave their watery home at night to find sustenance in the way of grass and other plant material, on land.  On this magical night at Chinzombo, they didn’t have far to go with plenty of emerging vegetation being available for them, just meters away from where we were enjoying our own meal.


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Dinner with hippos?  Only in Africa.  When one of the Chinzombo waitstaff closed a dinnerware cupboard a bit too firmly, it spooked one of the hippos which scampered away, momentarily.  Or perhaps more correctly, lumbered away… Either way, it was a unique experience to see these massive beasts so close up in an entirely safe manner as we were elevated on a huge indoor/outdoor covered deck, overlooking the Luangwa River.


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For visitors from the USA, Lusaka, Zambia is usually at the end of a long, marathon journey via Johannesburg or several other cities in Africa or the Middle East. So it was in my case in mid-July when I arrived in Zambia after three flights totaling some 25 hours aloft from Houston via Doha and Jo’burg. Fortunately with a short break in South Africa to visit my family and in the process adjust to the new time-zone. 


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Mercifully, Zambian entrance facilities including a health check (checking of Covid certificate, handing over short pre completed form and temperature check) and obtaining a $50 single entry visa, took all of 10 minutes. Friendly and professional.

The impressive, brand new international arrival and departures hall (Terminal 1) was officially opened just days after we left Zambia, on August 5. For the time being domestic flights will continue to depart and arrive from Terminal 2, the old Lusaka Airport, which has clearly seen better days.

Photo – Great Plains Conservation


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On August 6, Zambia also welcomed the first arrival of Qatar Airways which will initially service Lusaka via Harare, Zimbabwe, with 3 flights per  week on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.  This means that Zambia can now be reached directly from the USA – without transiting either South Africa or Europe – on Emirates, Ethiopian and Qatar.

From Lusaka it took about an hour by air – on a 29-seater twin turboprop Jetstream 41 – to reach Mfuwe Airport. From there we were driven to Chinzombo Camp which would be the first stop on our 12-day fam trip encompassing the South Luangwa,  Kafue and Lower Zambezi regions.


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Our Chinzombo guide – Innocent – who would stay with us for the first few days of our trip – was everything one could ask for and expect in a professional safari guide:  friendly, enthusiastic and exceedingly knowledgeable.  Innocent has that special ability to blend and effectively communicate just the right mix of hard facts, story-telling and background information to keep things interesting, irrespective of whether you are watching lions or ant-lions.


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We certainly started on a high note. Time & Tide’s Chinzombo camp is very small with only six spacious tented villas, including a two-bedroom, two-bathroom family villa. At the end of a long journey –  or perhaps towards the end of a safari – this is the perfect spot to relax on your verandah overlooking a sweeping curve of the Luangwa River.  Perfect for letting a pod of hippos lull you to sleep. Or more likely wake you up earlier than you might have wanted to.

Legendary Lodge


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Named after a type of tree which grows near the camp, Chinzombo’s natural building materials and vintage accents blend modern style with the best of a traditional bush safari camp.  The huge villas come with a king size bed or two ¾ size beds, a luxury mosquito net, and good reading lamps. There are plenty of charging points.  The separate enclosed indoor shower and separate toilet ‘room’ were the only less than stellar elements in the total mix.  


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Tucked beneath ancient msikzi trees, each of the guest villas has a private pool and soaking tub with panoramic views over the river and wildlife.  If I’d had more time here I certainly would have spent some of it on the expansive shaded verandah, just the place to unwind with a book or to get pampered with an in-room spa treatment.


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Down a winding path, the main lodge beckons; in my case from one of the villas closest to the main area, it was just a short walk.  This is where we enjoyed the  wonderful, hippo-enhanced dinner of grilled tilapia with rice and a delicious sauce.  The two other alternative main course options were fillet of beef or a vegetarian option.   


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Later that evening I found myself listening to the sounds of lions and hyenas while enjoying a relaxing bath in the oversized tub, with even more hippos grazing away on the huge expanse of short grass leading down to the river.  Once heard, the distinctive sound of their large rubbery mouths grasping mouthfuls of vegetation at a regular, measured frequency, is hard to forget.  And just as effective as counting sheep, or listening to a soothing voice, to transport you gently across the elusive barrier between waking and sleeping.


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The Mfuwe area is one of the most game-rich areas of South Luangwa National Park.  Early the following morning we took a short boat trip across the river for a game drive en route to Time & Tide’s Kakuli Camp, which would be our next stop.   In addition to all the usual suspects (elephants, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, impalas, pukus, warthogs and an amazing variety of birds) we got lucky with sightings of lions and we witnessed extraordinary interaction between a hyena and a crocodile.  More about that in our blog next week.   In addition to game drives, activities at Chinzombo include safari walks and boat safaris, when the Luangwa River is high in late summer.  The camp is open year-round.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

28th May 2021

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them


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Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

My first vivid recollection of African painted dogs is from my childhood, when my siblings and I first started to see these fascinating creatures on self-drive safaris with our parents,  inside Kruger National Park in South Africa.  Even that many years ago, the painted dogs – also known as ‘wild dogs’ or Cape hunting dogs – were scarce and thinly spread and to see them was a special treat.  The park authorities encouraged visitors to report all sightings – which we duly did.  We spent a couple of weeks or so in Kruger Park almost every winter for several years, yet I can only recall seeing the ‘wilde honde’ – Afrikaans for wild dogs – on a handful of occasions.  


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Most memorably, we saw a small pack of painted dogs one afternoon – in the northern part of the park – encircle and attempt to bring down an adult sable antelope.  Those of you familiar with sable antelopes will know that these animals possess an impressive pair of long, curved horns with sharp tips.  On this day, as we kids and of course mother and father, were watching totally spellbound, the sable antelope wedged its vulnerable hind quarters into a thick bush and faced off the repeatedly charging painted dogs.


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Every time one of the dogs would stray a little too close, the sable would viciously swing at it with its scythe-like horns, evoking quick evasive moves on the part of the dog.  One after another, the painted dogs would dart in and out, apparently trying to rattle the sable into bolting.  We realized early on that this hunting attempt was doomed to fail, with an adult sable antelope simply being too much to handle for a small pack of painted dogs.  The dogs figured it out too and after a few more desultory charges, they gave up and trundled off into the bush.


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Memories like these go into the ‘indelible’ category and witnessing this play out in front of your very own eyes is what makes wildlife observation – particularly in an African setting with the interaction between predators and prey – as popular and enduring a pastime as it has proven to be.

Seeing and enjoying – and helping to protect and conserve these endangered mammals – continue to be a part of what motivates and inspires many of us in the photographic safari industry.

African painted dogs have been listed as endangered since 1990, with an estimated total population of just over 6,000 of these animals surviving in about 40 subpopulations, all threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, human persecution and disease.


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Painted dogs in Botswana

Most of the painted dogs that can readily be seen in the wilderness, are to be found in Southern Africa and more specifically in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. In Botswana, their core area is Ngamiland which includes the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Chobe National Park.  There are estimated to be about 40 or so packs of painted dogs in Northern Botswana, containing around 450 to 500 animals in total. 


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Some time ago, on a game drive out of Dumatau, the Wilderness Safaris property in the Chobe-Linyanti area, we experienced what one might describe as a typical african painted dog scenario:  Our afternoon game drive with our Dumatau guide started on a high note. Not long into the drive, we came across an african painted dog pack of nine, resting up and lolling about in a loose group, a couple of the younger ones coming right up to take a look at our vehicle. Over the following few minutes their demeanor changed from relaxed and inquisitive to alert and focused as they started hunting.


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We followed the main group as they rambled through the bush, slowly increasing their speed to a steady trot. Soon, the dogs were moving rapidly through fairly dense woodland, changing direction once or twice, but heading in the general direction of the floodplain. Two hyenas could also be seen, following the dogs, in the hope of a ‘free meal’, no doubt. By this time, there were two vehicles in radio contact ‘working’ the hunt, one trying to maintain visual contact with the dogs, and the other one anticipating the direction and speed of the chase. As it happened, we were in the lead towards the end.


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As we emerged from the tree-line and descended onto the edge of the floodplain, in a cloud of dust, we came upon the painted dogs just seconds after they had brought down an impala ram. It was a scene of primeval intensity as they devoured their prey, the sound of their teeth tearing the skin and ripping at the sinews all that could be heard other than our muttered exclamations of amazement and awe. Within the space of just five minutes or so the impala was reduced to little more than backbone, skull and horns. We sat there for the longest time just taking it all in, waiting for the last light of dusk to fade away before we slowly made our way back to camp, for dinner”.

Legendary Lodge


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Some time later, we were back at Dumatau and on the drive from Chobe airstrip to Dumatau, one of the other passengers mentioned to our guide Ron Masule (head guide at Dumatau) that the only signature Botswana species which I had not seen thus far on my trip, was painted dog. So, he said, ‘Ron better find us some dogs…!’ It didn’t take long. Just after tea we headed out of camp to a spot where the painted dogs had been spotted the previous day. Within 20 minutes or so, I had my first view of what turned out to be a pack of about 7 of these magnificent animals. After negotiating some very rough terrain we stopped on the edge of a small seasonal waterhole where the painted dogs were resting up and settling in for the night. In the fading light, I was happy to get a few good photographs.


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Something interesting which I learnt that day, was that various birds, notably the bateleur eagle and the hooded vulture, are closely associated with painted dog sightings.  The bateleurs because they want to snag a morsel of meat left behind from the kill, the hooded vultures for a rather more obscure reason.  They are coprophagic so the high-protein droppings of the painted dogs are simply a food item to them.  Whatever.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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On another visit to Botswana, on a game drive out of Kwando Safaris’ Kwara Camp, we had been looking for the painted dogs for nearly two days solid, finding and then losing their tracks repeatedly.  On our last morning there, we were hot on their trail again, but somehow, frustratingly, could just not close the gap.  

At around 3:00 pm or so, we stopped at a small pond for a tea and coffee break.  Having gotten out of the vehicle, we were standing around chit-chatting when, from the corner of my eye, I noticed one and then several wild dogs running out of the woodland towards the water. The wild dogs had found us! We spent the next hour in their company. There were six in total, which is about average for a painted dog pack.


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Having followed the six wild dogs for a while, we saw them resting up in a grove of Kalahari apple-leaf trees. There were 2 females and 4 males. Again, typical of a painted dog pack which is almost always ‘male-heavy’ as it is the females which leave the pack, when it gets too big or when conditions merit, to become the founder of a new pack.  The males stay put.  These very handsome animals were quite oblivious to our presence. As is their habit, they engaged in some horseplay, or perhaps more correctly – canine capers. I recall shooting about 200 mediocre shots of African painted dogs. A couple or so turned out ok.


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Painted dog behavior and social structure

A Botswana property where we had seen the African painted dogs on more than one location, is Lagoon Camp, which lived up to prior billing as ‘the’ wild dog camp in N. Botswana. We twice bumped into a large pack of dogs there, watching them feed on an impala and observing their strict but amiable social structure, with the pups eating first, then the alpha dogs and finally the others.


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This is typical behavior for the painted dogs, which are highly social animals.  Breeding is limited to the alpha female, who stays close to the pups in the den, and who discourages pack members from visiting them until they are old enough to eat solid food at three to four weeks of age.  By the time the pups are about five weeks old, they start to eat meat regurgitated by pack members.  When the pups reach the age of about 10 weeks, the den is abandoned and the youngsters – who by now resemble adults in every way – follow the adults around on hunts.  This is when they are allowed to eat first, until they are about a year old.


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Together with cheetahs, the African painted dogs are the only primarily diurnal  large African predators. We’ve seen them hunt well past sunset, as well.   African painted dogs have a high hunting success rate and their average of kills as a percentage of attempts exceeds that of both lions and leopards.  The species which feature highest on the painted dogs’ menu are kudu, impala, Thomson’s gazelle (east Africa), bushbuck, reedbuck, lechwe and blue wildebeest.  We have personally observed them taking a hare, proving that they will kill pretty much anything they come across.


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Painted dogs elsewhere in Africa

Two other areas which are good for African painted dogs are the greater Kruger Park in South Africa and Zimbabwe, notably in Hwange National Park and also Mana Pools National Park.  Some of the best camps in the Kruger Park area to visit, to give yourself a decent change at coming across the dogs, are MalaMala, Kirkmans, Singita, Savanna and Dulini in the Sabi Sand Reserve, as well as Kings Camp, Tanda Tula and Kambaku River Sands in the Timbavati Reserve.  In Zimbabwe, we have encountered the painted dogs on game drives from Little Makalolo, Linkwasha, Bomani in Hwange and Chikwenya and Ruckomechi in Mana Pools.


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In our blog post next week, we will take a look at a few of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties in Southern and East Africa.  Places where we’d be happy to wake up every morning, for the rest of our lives…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

14th August 2020

A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

In late May last year, just after noon on what was a Tuesday, I stepped into a seven seater Mahindra Airvan at Saile Airstrip on the edge of the Linyanti floodplain in Northern Botswana. A click of a seatbelt and a short safety briefing later, it was time to go. The young pilot pushed the power throttle to its fully forward position, released the brakes and in less than a minute we went hurtling into the blue Botswana sky.

For me, bush flying will never get old.  With the passage of time, I have come to enjoy and appreciate it more and more, since my first ‘white-knuckle’ flight in a Cessna 206 – also in Botswana – in 1990. Over the last almost 30 years the pilots have become younger and more diverse in terms of gender and nationality, new types of aircraft have arrived on the scene, and operation and safety standards have improved.  The fun and excitement never went away.


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Bush flying has always been different. This is ‘real’ flying with a sense of immediacy, noise, speed and a tinge of danger.  All lacking from commercial flying. Even so, if you have yet to strap yourself into the seat of a single prop aircraft in which you can make eye contact with the pilot as he or she looks back right before takeoff, there is no need to be nervous. These young persons have acquired excellent flying skills, are totally safety conscious and have to be exceptionally skilled to have snagged a flying job in Botswana.  It’s a plum position.

Just over 30 minutes later we were in Kasane.  And 20 minutes later I was in a boat crossing the Chobe river into Zambia. The landing in Zambia is a bit jarring, having to negotiate one’s way along a somewhat rickety gangplank, amid industrial debris and the grimy, smelly environment of a working dockside. Thankfully the immigration process was quick and painless, taken care of by my Wilderness Safaris driver Angel.  I paid $50 for a univisa, which allows unlimited entries into Zimbabwe and Zambia for several months.


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TONGABEZI LODGE, ZAMBIA

By 2:30 p.m. I arrived at Tongabezi where the affable and efficient general manager Mark showed me around and helped me with a quick check in, almost immediately afterwards followed by a delightful lunch overlooking the Zambezi.  Which was flowing strongly.

About an hour or so later – my last mode of transport for the day being a small aluminum skiff which deposited me on a small island in the middle of the Zambezi – I had made it to my final destination of the day, Sindabezi.  Here, I would spend the night.  Sindabezi Island is remote, private and the ideal spot for someone open to new adventures.  After a peaceful night’s sleep, I woke up not to sunlight, but to a moonbeam.  I had been sleeping within sight and sound of one of Africa‘s mightiest rivers, right in front and below me.  A nearby set of rapids stirring up the most soothing white noise of all. Sleeping virtually outside with just a few light curtains between you and the great African outdoors. There’s more.  You’re attended to personally by several friendly and efficient staff members, enjoying delicious food from a varied and creative menu with lots of local options, and choosing from a huge list of included and optional activities. Being severely time limited, I opted for an afternoon sundowner cruise which was relaxing and fun, ending at a drinks stop where I met many of the guests staying at Tongabezi Lodge.  It was a most agreeable conclusion to a busy day.


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One final plus point about Sindabezi Island: good fast Wi-Fi on an island which runs on solar power.   All the lodges out there with feeble excuses about sub-par Wi-Fi service.  Take note. It can be done.

The next morning I woke up to an unusual sight. A bank of fog had formed over the surface of the Zambezi resulting in a spectacular if somewhat spooky sunrise, the sun itself and its light reflected, refracted and obscured by the fog. The photographs hardly do it justice but I took a few nonetheless.

After a super breakfast and catching up on a few emails I went back to Tongabezi Lodge for a site inspection. I was really pleased to see that both the houses and cottages at Tongabezi were fantastic and I would highly recommend the property for a Victoria Falls stay.


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Tongabezi has the most magnificent trees and gardens including an extensive vegetable and herb garden, both featuring heavily in the planning and execution of meals and drinks.

As previously alluded to, the list of included and optional activities is exhaustive, ranging from sundowner cruises to village visits to micro light flights over the falls. Tongabezi was then in the final stages of an extensive upgrade, and their large bar and lounge had been completed, with a new reception landing area.  With a new office already in place Tongabezi was looking great.  By all means go there.


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THORNTREE LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

By late morning I was dropped off at African Bush Camps’ Thorntree Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, inside the Zambezi National Park. This property has been setting a new high standard for deluxe boutique accommodation in the fully inclusive lodge category, with 10 beautifully designed villas, each with a large deck and private plunge pool, looking out over the Zambezi. The rooms have every feature one could wish for: air conditioning, Wi-Fi, striking glass and screens, and adequate lighting.  Each villa has a mini bar, tea and coffee making facilities, indoor and outdoor showers and an indoor tub, a large bathroom with separate enclosed toilet, a personal safe and mosquito netting.

The main area is an impressive – mostly glass enclosed – structure and there’s also a spa and gym on the large grounds.  The lodge offers a full range of activities.  The standard of hospitality which I experienced at Thorntree was exceptionally high.  My day started with a peaceful and rather quiet Zimbabwe river cruise with the Thorntree activities manager – a pleasant change of pace from the hectic pace of the previous day.


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En route to Zimbabwe that afternoon, I made an hour-long stop to observe the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side. I had done this outing approximately a year ago so I knew what to expect, with the Zambezi being in flood stage. Again it was an awesome sight to behold. While the view of the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side is not the best when the river is low – from September to about December or so – it is quite satisfactory and even spectacular when the Zambezi is running at flood or near flood stage.

In fact the closest one can get to the actual flow of the water – to experience an effect much like that of seeing Niagara Falls from the Canadian side – is a spot close to the entrance to the falls reserve, on the Zambia side. Powerful and mesmerizing. You inadvertently stop to think about the survival chances of someone going down there in a barrel. Only to conclude that the prospect of the person surviving to tell the tale is a big fat zero.

Crossing the wet and slippery Devil’s footpath bridge across a side gorge, you reach some more good view points over the eastern portion of the falls, observing the Angels’ armchair and the famous Devil’s pool, popular attractions for breathtakingly close approaches to the abyss.  Only doable when the water in the Zambezi is low.


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BATONKA GUEST LODGE

Having been driven across the Zambezi and into Zimbabwe, my first stop was the Batonka Lodge, an all-around delightful property with 16 well-equipped rooms, less than a mile away from the falls, in the residential portion of Victoria Falls town.

The rooms are spacious, effectively air-conditioned, there is Wi-Fi and even television with 10 channels. The meals were excellent. I overheard a guest complimenting the chef on a main course of pork medallions served with a caper sauce.  I concurred.  They were expertly prepared and deftly served and not unreasonably pricey by Victoria Falls standards.


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Batonka Lodge has a nice pool in a sunny spot, there are both indoor and outdoor dining options as well as some comfortable inside and outside lounge areas, and a cozy bar.

Particularly for someone who already has a couple of scheduled Vic Falls activities planned – and who does not “have“ to be within walking distance from the falls – it is a good and affordable option with no high season premium.


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GORGES LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

After lunch that day, and a road transfer of about 35 minutes, I checked into one of the excellent tented rooms at Little Gorges, a five room tented addition to the well-established Gorges Lodge.

Gorges and Little Gorges are ideal for guests who prefer to be away from the helicopter noise and hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls town, and are keen to experience a more peaceful environment with great black eagle viewing, as well as experiencing an authentic local village and school experience.   Included in the rate is a daily round-trip transfer to Victoria Falls town for a guided tour of the falls or some other Victoria Falls activity.

My afternoon black eagle activity did not have the desired outcome which was a good photo of a black eagle in flight.  As is often the case with wildlife, it was circumstantial. A male black eagle did in fact fly right over us but I had too much lens and there were some trees in the way.  Photography issues.  I did manage to get a half decent pic of a black eagle sitting in a tree close to one of the tented rooms. Plus I had a great chat with co manager Chris, enjoyed the superb sundowners snacks and watched as the sun slowly set over Batoka gorge.  A worthwhile experience unto itself.


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Dinner at Gorges was quite enjoyable.  As before it was a tasty home style meal with a grilled steak, grilled potato and two veg plus an excellent malva pudding for dessert.

Tent number one at Little Gorges is right on the edge of the Batoka gorge with the sound of the Zambezi rushing over some rapids, creating a soothing backdrop, making it a perfectly splendid place to fall asleep. Which I promptly did after dinner. There is nothing like a solid eight hours in likely some of the cleanest air in Africa to recharge the batteries.

Breakfast at Gorges Lodge could have benefited from a little work in the way of presentation and ‘wow’ factor; and perhaps a French press instead of drip brewed coffee. Even so, the cooked breakfast was perfectly fine – no issues with that.


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VICTORIA FALLS RIVER LODGE

Rather earlier than was necessary – which caused me to forgo an activity at Gorges – I was transferred back to Victoria Falls and from there by boat from the Shearwater jetty for a pleasant 10 minute or so river trip to the Victoria Falls River Lodge.

Although brief, my stay at the Victoria Falls River Lodge was pleasant. I particularly liked the main lodge dining room area with great views over the Zambezi. The room was spacious and well equipped with an outdoor shower, indoor bathtub and plenty of space. I always appreciate adequate lighting. The food – both lunch and dinner – was a notch above the usual lodge fare.


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My afternoon activity was a Bushtracks jet-boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi, advertised as getting to within 800 meters of the falls. While I enjoyed the activity a lot, I don’t think we got closer than 1600 meter to the falls. The biggest advantage was the fact that closer to the falls, in shallower water, there were no other boats around to spoil the serenity of the area. It was only us and one other jet-boat – also from Bushtracks – in the area. We spotted quite a bit of wildlife including hippo and elephant. Plus points for Victoria Falls River Lodge were the proximity to the Zambezi, the quality of the hospitality and guiding, and also – somewhat surprisingly to me – the game-viewing in the Zambezi National Park within which the lodge is located. We had some excellent views of elephants, giraffes, zebras, waterbuck and a couple other species.  Game-viewing in the park improves as the dry season progresses.

Next stop:  Hwange National Park.  To be featured in our blog post next Friday.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

30th April 2020

“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro


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“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

Having successfully reached the summit of Kilimanjaro twice in three years, most recently along the Rongai Route in Feb 2020, while training mostly at close to sea level, here’s Fish Eagle Safaris founder Bert Duplessis’ tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb:


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#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.


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Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.


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#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.


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#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.


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#4: Eat and drink regularly.

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.


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Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.


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#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.


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#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.


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In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

i)   Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly.

ii)   Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.

iii)   Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.

iv)   Barbell front squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!

v)   Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.

vi)   Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Stand with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance.


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Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells.

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: Tiger Fishing

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“Only in Africa”:
Tiger Fishing

“Only in Africa”:
Tiger Fishing

I believe the core activity on any great safari is the game drive.  The animals are, of course, the main attraction and there is no better method of viewing them over the course of a trip.  This should be the activity of choice for the majority of days in the bush.  There are a few alternatives that can add to your trip if used in moderation.  Walking, boat outings, and fishing immediately come to mind.  Of these alternatives it is hard to beat a good fishing trip.  Strictly catch and release of course.


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Anticipation

For me there is nothing quite like waking up early in the morning knowing that I have a fishing trip coming up and thinking about what kind of fish I am going to catch that day.  Although some days I don’t catch a single thing.  But let’s not dwell on that, the morning before a fishing trip is an optimistic time.  Tiger fishing on the Zambezi brings a special kind of anticipation because the quarry is so out of the norm. 


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They are truly a beautiful fish, large, powerful, striking, especially with those cartoonish giant teeth.  It is hard (if not impossible) to come up with a North American equivalent.  Not an easy fish to catch under the best of circumstances but that is what makes reeling one in all the more special.  In the back of your mind you know there is some monster lurking somewhere in the vastness of the river.  Could today be the day when chance brings your lure into the gaze of one of these behemoths?


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Relaxation

Tiger fishing can be physically strenuous with a constant flow of casting and reeling.  As the morning passes and your approach afternoon it can get hot out on the water with the sun beating down on you.  Despite this it brings a relaxing repetitiveness.  Cast.  Reel.  Cast.  Reel.  Take in the amazing surroundings.  A fish eagle perched on a nearby tree.  Some hippos watching you noisily.  The gentle wind keeping you cool.  The belief that each failed cast brings you one closer to the inevitable bite. 


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On my last trip in the Lower Zambezi I must have tossed a few hundred casts out in order to get about 2 good bites.  I did witness a fish eagle swoop in near one of my casts and snatch a fish not 10 feet from my lure.  No catch and release for her.  He came so close in fact that I initially thought he was going to take my lure.  What are the odds?  That alone made the whole activity quite a special outing.


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Great Guide & Snacks

On top of all of this you will have a fantastic guide taking you to the best fishing holes, setting up all your bait, giving you instructions, and serving you snacks and refreshments during the course of the day.  I was lucky enough to be the lone guest so I encouraged my guide to do some fishing with me.  Lucky I did else I would not have gotten a look at the elusive tiger!  These guys will bend over backwards to make your day a special one so I was quite pleased he was able to reel one in.  Plus it gave me the opportunity to film it.


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Everyone knows fishing can be an excellent source of bragging rights.  This is especially true if you are travelling in a small group.  Watching your loved one haul in a monster tiger is simultaneously thrilling and brings a slight pang of regret that it isn’t your bait the fish chose.  In the end it’s all in good fun but that doesn’t mean that we at Fish Eagle Safaris don’t know who holds the office record for one of these guys.  Bert and Kathy had success catching a few decent sized ones from the bank, not from a boat.  He said what made it a bit more challenging was having to first catch the bait fish.

 


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Kathy caught a nice 10 lb one and was certain she had gotten snagged on a log.  She asked the guide for some help and as he took the rod he exclaimed that there was one on the line.  Jason and I first went fishing on the Zambezi years ago and he was the first to hook one.  I remember watching him frantically reel as his line went slack.  I then remember seeing a huge tiger fish jump and if you looked close enough you could see it spit the hook out in our general direction.  Pure heartbreak.  At some point I convinced him to switch rods with me and I wound up pulling in a 12 or 13 pounder after a good fight.  I don’t think he has forgiven me to this day.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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