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Sanctuary Kusini Camp, Southern Serengeti

2nd April 2021

Sanctuary Kusini Camp, Southern Serengeti


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Sanctuary Retreats

Sanctuary Kusini Camp, Southern Serengeti

On my last night at Sanctuary Kusini Camp in the Southern Serengeti this February, I heard lions roaring from my tent.  As I found out the following morning,  the cats had spent the night on a rocky outcrop a few hundred meters outside of camp.  Close enough to be heard and appreciated, far enough not to be a threat.


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Listening to lions proclaiming their territorial dominance, is always a memorable moment on safari.  Whether they’re close enough to make your chest reverberate or calling from a mile away, the roaring of lions in the bush cuts right to the heart of the safari experience.  Exciting, unpredictable, with just a hint of danger – and a promise of things to come.  A pursuit, a hunt – maybe even a kill.


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A short flight of not even 15 minutes had brought me from Ndutu to Serengeti South airstrip, from where it was a 20-minute drive or so, to Sanctuary’s Kusini Camp.  I had long wanted to make my way here and as it turned out, my highest expectations were exceeded.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Lions and wildebeest on the move

Arriving before 9 am in the morning into the airstrip, meant that my guide Emmanuel Mbramba and I had plenty of time to explore the area, before having to return to camp for lunch.  Our objective for the morning was to try to find some cheetahs – for which Kusini is known – but things worked out differently.  One of our first sightings was a coalition of three young male lions, which seemed to be in great condition.  They were clearly benefiting from the abundance of prey animals – particularly young wildebeest calves – present in the Serengeti during the migration.


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From the lion sighting we drove to the nearby open plains where I witnessed an awesome wildebeest ‘run by’ with literally several thousand wildebeest thundering past us in a more or less unbroken line, from left to right, for what seemed like at least 20 minutes.  On and on they came, sometimes a bit slower and then building up to a full on gallop.  I thought at the time – and in recollection even more so – that it rivaled a river crossing in sheer impact and drama.

Many hundreds of photographs later, we made it to Kusini camp for a delicious lunch:  a particularly nice chicken salad with chickpea and banana salads on the side.  


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More lions in trees

The afternoon game drive concentrated on a woodland area where we found several more lions – four of them – in trees.  How odd that I would not see a lion in a tree in 30 years and then see nine of them doing that in a matter of two consecutive days.  In two different parts of the Serengeti.  One of the lions – a subadult male – was almost comically uncomfortable in the odd position he had assumed in a tree.  Quite high up – almost in the canopy – but with only his chest and front paws resting on a branch.  His hind legs were fully extended and apparently bearing a considerable amount of his weight.


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Getting a good photo of a lion in a tree is challenging.  For one thing, the animals are often obscured by branches and leaves.  There is the much dreaded backlighting issue to contend with (getting good exposure on a dark object against a light background) and most importantly, it is difficult to illustrate the actual height to which the lions have climbed.  There’s no real solution to any of these issues, except to get as many exposures as you can from different viewpoints and angles.


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Leopards and more leopards

Soon after, Emmanuel found a female leopard and her young cub, also in a tree.  Initially, we saw only the baby which was not shy at all.  It clambered around for a bit on a horizontal branch and then ensconced itself among some leaves.  As we approached the site, we observed the female higher up in the tree.  She then climbed down and started feeding on a wildebeest carcass which had been jammed into the base of the tree.  Eventually both mother and daughter climbed back up into the tree, where we left them.


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The very next sighting was yet another leopard. This time a young male, which we soon realized was a veritable killing machine.  He had no less than three carcasses strung up in his tree:  two young wildebeest and most unexpectedly – a serval cat.  Leopards are known to kill and actually consume other cats.  When we first saw it, the serval carcass had not been mutilated or partially devoured, and we speculated about the likelihood of the leopard actually consuming it, given the abundance of other options.

Legendary Lodge


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The light was fading fast so we had to return to camp for dinner.  Predictably excellent.  A soup starter, a choice of Spanish lamb stew with couscous, or herb-roasted chicken, and a vegetarian option.  Plus a pear tart for dessert.  The lions may have roared outside my tent again on this night, but I was dead to the world.


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The following morning we were out early, hoping to get some better photos of the leopard which had killed the serval.  Despite the lighting conditions remaining sub-par (cloudy), I did manage several decent captures of this beautiful cat.  Initially as he was waking up – he had spent the night in a low bush about 20 meters from ‘his’ tree – and then as he approached and clambered up the tree.

Legendary Lodge


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Over the next hour or so, the leopard relocated the dead serval more than once, eventually piling it on top of one of the wildebeest.  The young male then rested up a bit, seemingly content to just stare at his handiwork.  After taking a few bites from the serval, which he did not seem to find very palatable and whose fur clearly was not to his taste, the leopard turned to the wildebeest for sustenance, feeding on it for about 15 minutes or so.  Then it was leopard nap-time and we went off in pursuit of other things.


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The other things turned out to be more of the same, when we relocated the three young lion boys from the previous day.  The difference being that they were on top of a big rock this time around.  Having been told earlier that the area was known as ‘Simba rocks’, it all started to make sense.  An impending thunderstorm – which in fact caught up with us en route – prompted a return to camp for lunch.

Villa Maua


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Once again an elegantly presented, tasty meal.  A summer salad.  Asian pork salad with rice noodles.  Marinated cucumber, beetroot and carrot salad.  And a passion fruit panna cotta to wrap it up.  Where are the exercise facilities when you really need them…


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Sanctuary Kusini Camp turned out to be an ideal spot to spend a few days during the wildebeest migration season.  Certainly seeing thousands of these animals congregated in one area is an amazing experience.  This time, I started noticing the surprisingly high number of lost or abandoned baby wildebeest, many of which could be seen wandering about on their own. Lost in a vast wilderness, calling out for their mothers.


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Silently, we all hoped that they would be reunited, as otherwise the outcome is grim.   In just a couple of days in the Kusini area, we must have witnessed a dozen or more incidents of young wildebeest being devoured by a range of animals and birds, from lions to leopards to hyenas, vultures, marabou storks, tawny eagles and jackals.  It is an inexorable part of the cycle of life in the savannah:  the never-ending saga of predator and prey.


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Sanctuary Retreats

Kusini camp impressions

Kusini camp itself is located in a low-impact area at the base of a rocky outcrop, with 12 well-spaced tented rooms providing comfortable accommodation.  The rooms are spacious with plenty of space to store your stuff and it has ample plug points.  My tent happened to have a large king size bed with a mosquito net; I found the mattress to be exceptionally firm which was not an issue as that is my personal preference.  It had a good-sized outside veranda with comfortable furnishings – ideal to sit and reflect for a moment, or catch up on your diary notes.


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Sanctuary Retreats

Overall I don’t think one can describe the camp as being particularly ‘luxurious’ but it is just right for the environment, fitting in well in this remote wilderness.  Sanctuary Kusini is clearly a quality operation, from top to bottom.  In terms of service, the level of hospitality, friendliness of the staff and management, it ranks up there with the best.  I just had the sense that everyone worked well together and that has a very positive impact on the guest experience.


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Another highlight was the feeling of having the entire area to oneself.  The only other vehicle we saw in the course of two days of criss-crossing the area, was one other vehicle – also from Kusini – and a vehicle operated by a private guide whose client was also staying at the camp.  It’s just you and your guide and thousands of animals – when the migration is around.  Even at other times the game-viewing is good as the big cats are resident.  Although we missed them – too busy watching leopards and lions – Kusini is known for its consistently reliable cheetah sightings.


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Sanctuary Retreats

I’ve mentioned the excellent food before and the final dinner at Kusini was a case in point.  Simply outstanding:  a tomato and lemongrass soup, a superbly done roast chicken with a special sauce, freshly sauteed vegetable and a sweet lemony dessert.  This is one lodge where even the most discerning diners will be thrilled with the quality of the cuisine.


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I cannot say enough good things about my guide Emmanuel Mbramba.  We bonded almost immediately when we found out that we had both been up and down Kilimanjaro a few times.  Me as a climber, Emmanuel as a porter and later a guide, as I recall.  Emmanuel was enthusiastic, knowledgeable and passionate about the bush and all the animals and birds.  He did a superb job setting me up for photographs, had tons of patience and just the right touch in terms of knowing when to approach and when to hold off, so as not to alarm any of the animals.  You would be lucky to have Emmanuel as your guide at Sanctuary, although I am sure that the other members of the guiding team have their strengths too.

The next morning, just after breakfast, I was back in the vehicle for the ride to the airstrip, this time for a flight to Seronera in the central part of the Serengeti.


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In our blog next week we discover another excellent big cat destination in the central part of the Serengeti, at Namiri Plains camp.  No less than 30 lions one morning, as well as cheetahs and servals.  It doesn’t get any better than that.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Serengeti Safari Camp, Ndutu

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Serengeti Safari Camp, Ndutu


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Ngare Sero Lodge

Serengeti Safari Camp, Ndutu

Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park is one of Africa’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries. Massive in size – dwarfing Kenya’s Masai Mara which is part of the same ecosystem – it is high on the bucket list of many travelers.  And for good reason.  There’s nothing else like it.  Its vast undulating grassy plains, interspersed with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and forest and riverine thickets, are well-watered and support literally millions of large mammals of as many as 70 species.


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It also harbors more than 500 species of birds, from heavy flightless ostriches to tiny fire-finches, a wealth of birds of prey and some of Africa’s most colorful birds such as bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and sunbirds.  Its annual wildebeest migration – when in excess of 1.5 million wildebeest move from the southern shortgrass plains of the Serengeti to the northernmost borders of the park along the Mara and Sand Rivers, as well as to the west into the Grumeti Reserve – is one of the world’s most celebrated natural phenomena.


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It has only been a couple of years since my last visit to the southern Serengeti, but it couldn’t have been more different than the previous time.  As the flight from Mwiba dipped lower and turned on short finals to line up with the runway at Ndutu airstrip, I knew right away that we had found the wildebeest migration.

Sanctuary Retreats


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There were clusters of wildebeest visible all over the woodland, with herds of up to several hundred, with almost as many zebras mixed in with them, occupying every open area and grassy spot.  Sporadically, they would erupt into bursts of seemingly reverberating calls, as first one and then another and eventually many started to make their loud grunting contact calls.


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After I had been picked up by my guide Amos Noah from Nomad Tanzania, we went back into the woodland to closely observe the masses of wildebeest and zebra steadily making their way through the area.  They were clearly alert to our presence, staring at us momentarily before relaxing and slowly opening up a gap between themselves and the vehicle.


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At times, some of them got spooked and would take off in a random direction, sometimes causing a few others to bolt as well.  

In certain spots there were almost as many zebras as wildebeest, the animals being packed together tightly.  It was not an easy scene to photograph.  Frankly, a photograph simply does not transmit the scope and drama of the event.  I did later capture some of the motion on video, but even that is a pale imitation of being there, right then.


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At nearby Lake Ndutu we came upon a pride of lions.  Three of them – including one handsome male – was doing what most lions do during the day:  find a comfortable spot and sleep.  The other five had taken their sleep behavior to the next level.  We found them high up in a huge acacia tortilis tree, stretched out on thick horizontal branches, seemingly quite comfortable with their legs and tails hanging down.


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Their heads were down and turned either to the left or right, changing position every now and then. In 30 years of being in the safari business, I had not seen this – ever.  Despite trying several times, I had never seen the tree-climbing lions of Lake Manyara National Park, or the ones known to do this in the Ishasha region of Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda.  Or anywhere else.


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So it was a really special sighting, particularly with just one or two other vehicles around.  Ordinarily – in a non-Covid year – a sighting like this would be surrounded by a dozen or more vehicles.   Once we had observed and photographed the dozing lions – who barely acknowledged our presence – we headed back into the woodland for even more ‘migration’ photos and views.

Legendary Lodge


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Next up was a big male leopard on a horizontal branch in a different tree, a couple of miles or so from the lake.  It had dragged a carcass of an impala up to the same branch.  Parking next to a vehicle with several professional photographers (we figured it out by the size of the lenses), we observed the leopard for quite a while.  Eventually we drove in another direction where we found what turned out  to be several dozen giraffes – there’s almost always more of them than you think – and a large herd of elephants.


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An hour or so later, we returned to the male leopard – which had relocated to a different branch in the tree – and caught a glimpse of a shy female leopard nearby.  We saw her again on our way back to camp.  Briefly stopping, we saw her first descend a tree and then climb right back up.  Light conditions (backlit) were unfortunately rather poor that late in the afternoon, so I ended up with a couple of ‘silhouette only’ pics.  Can’t win them all.

Legendary Lodge


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Soon thereafter, we arrived at Nomad Tanzania’s Serengeti Safari Camp #2.  This small mobile tented camp has 7 tents, including a family tent consisting of 2 adjoining tents.  There’s also a compact yet attractive mess tent and lounge tent with a small library, a device re-charging station and a small bar.

Villa Maua


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The tented rooms are quite simple yet perfectly adequate and they retain the essence of mobile tented camping, without turning into yet another ‘luxury’ camp.  So essentially a case of ‘just enough’ and ‘not too much’…  The interior lighting isn’t great but at least you don’t have to mess with lamps or lanterns or candles.  The flush toilet takes a bit of getting used to but it beats a ‘long drop’.  Some people blanch when they hear ‘bucket shower’ but in a setting like this one, it lends an authentic touch and it is of course much more environmentally friendly than an assemblage of pipes and wells.  All I had to do was indicate when I wanted to take a shower and at the agreed time, an attendant hooked up a large container with hot water, just outside the tent.  This time around I lingered a bit too long and ran out of water before I was quite ready.  Not an issue.  Another bucket was produced in short order.


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The food offerings at Serengeti Safari Camp were fresh and tasty and while there were not a huge amount of choices or options, it is definitely in the ‘solid’ category.  

What Nomad Tanzania admirably succeeds in doing, is retaining the essence of camping in the sense of staying connected with the wilderness.  You’re right in the middle of where it all happens.  I am personally never happier going to bed at night with the sounds of wildebeest contact calls and braying zebras filling the air.  We even heard – and a couple of staff members spotted it – a leopard right from the dinner table.


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The Serengeti Safari Camp staff were friendly and helpful, without exception.  The guiding – by Amos Noah – was excellent.  He knew where the tree-climbing lions were, found several leopards, got me into position for some flamingo shots, and was an agreeable and fun person to be with.


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After dinner – in the company of two other guests from England – I retired early and spent a peaceful night in my tent at Serengeti Safari Camp #2.  My only regret?  The brevity of the visit.  Up early the next morning, I enjoyed a hot breakfast before hitting the road once again, back to Ndutu Airstrip, off to a different spot in the southern Serengeti.


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In next week’s blog:  I move a bit further south and west to Sanctuary’s Kusini camp, a luxury tented property where I was the beneficiary of exceptionally good guiding and several obliging leopards.

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Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Mwiba Lodge, Southern Serengeti, Tanzania

19th March 2021

Mwiba Lodge, Southern Serengeti, Tanzania


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Ngare Sero Lodge

Mwiba Lodge, Southern Serengeti, Tanzania

On my first night at the divine Mwiba Lodge in Tanzania’s Southern Serengeti, I was thoroughly jetlagged.  And craved sleep more than anything else.  Ten minutes after retiring to my room #6, all thoughts of an early night had been banished.  There was a large soaking tub – with a generous supply of scalding hot water.  And a cozy lounge area which simply screamed:  use me!  And so began my infatuation – which I hope will blossom into a long term relationship – with this  drop dead gorgeous safari camp.


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It’s easy to fall in love with Legendary Safaris’ Mwiba Lodge.  The place is impeccable from top to bottom.  Location, people, experiences.  A total of 10 rooms are perched on a rocky, boulder-strewn outcrop overlooking the Arugusinyai River.  When flowing – as it was at the time of my visit –  the water cascading over the rocks creates a soothing natural soundtrack to the place.  Occasionally interrupted with a variety of bird calls such as the loud and rather harsh Bare-faced Go-away bird to the much more mellifluous tones of a White-browed Robin-chat, a dawn chorus stalwart.


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The main dining room and lounge area is an artful blend of natural material and fabrics (wood, thatch, rope, giant woven pots and linens), the actual rockface and handcrafted rock walls.   The whole of it creates a unique, intriguing setting which looks great, and works well.  Which is not always the case with safari properties where form sometimes obliterates function.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Not so at Mwiba.  The open design makes for effective airflow, a giant fireplace delivers heat when needed, and the bar area with its hardwood counter and recessed lamps create an environment where you positively want to sit down and relax for a while.  Even if your beverage of choice is a ‘mocktail’ and not the real thing.  True to Mwiba form, the pineapple juice used in my virgin pina colada was freshly squeezed on the spot.


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There is more.  This beautiful property also has some of the best trained staff I’ve ever encountered.  I was most impressed with the impeccable standard of hospitality – as good as any I’ve ever experienced in Africa.  Both my primary staff contacts were management material:  my guide Isaac as well as my personal waiter Bupolo.  They could not have been more professional or caring.


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It is easy to see why Mwiba is considered to be the undisputed top lodge in the greater southern Serengeti region of Tanzania.  Walk into this extraordinary property and there is a pleasant surprise around every corner: a different view, design element or visual focal point. The Zanzibari entrance door, the finely crafted stone walls, the beautiful natural wood bar counter, collectors item furniture pieces, the massive thatched roof and the stunning interiors – all artfully combining into a splendid whole.


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Sitting on top of a hill overlooking the Serengeti woodland, Mwiba has wide boardwalks leading to ultra-private rooms, all with beautiful views.  My room #6 was perched right on the edge of a large rock slab, with amazing views over the  Arugusinyai river and beyond.  It smacked of thoughtful design with ample packing/hanging space, a large soaking tub, a separate toilet, an outdoor shower, his and hers washbasins, a closet which lit up when opened and enough space to really spread out and get comfortable.


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Food at Mwiba

The food at Mwiba was a high point of my stay.  In fact everything I tried was consistently excellent, creative and presented with flair. Chef Jonathan came out to talk to me over lunch on my first day there, mentioning that he was planning to prepare some traditional African dishes for the following evening.  I was not quite expecting it to be the banquet which it turned out to be!

Starting with ugali – essentially the local version of polenta – the spread included chapati bread, kachumbari salad, chicken and beef mishkaki (kebabs), chachandu – a particularly good chili sauce – and coconut beans which I absolutely will have to try to recreate here in Texas.  And one or two other items which I forgot to write down.  On another day we had a starter of pear and blue cheese with arugula, Beef Wellington, and lemon tarts for dessert.  All delicious.

Legendary Lodge


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Activities in and around Mwiba

In addition to game drives, there’s plenty to do at Mwiba.  If you’re into cultural activities, Mwiba is known for its authentic Hadzabe experience.   Spend a morning in their world and be amazed at their stealth and agility, at the degree to which they are in tune with their environment,  and how they manage to survive largely untouched by Western civilization.


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Mwiba also offers some  good walking opportunities, enabling close-up sightings and experiences on foot, without distraction or interruption.  On an overnight fly-camp outing, you can experience the freedom of being totally off the grid in the wilderness, exploring your wild side on a truly personalized experience of Africa. White sheets, a quirky warm-water bucket shower and an eco-loo complete the experience. Wi-Fi?  No.   Silence and space?  Yes.

Legendary Lodge


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Right inside camp there’s a rejuvenating spa and gym and a cool wine cellar – not a bad spot for a private dinner. An expansive pool is set on a rocky outcrop overlooking a natural spring below.  In the dry season you may see some resident wildlife come to slake their thirst.  Walk in-between two massive rocks and around a corner and there is an inviting jacuzzi, seemingly carved out of the rockface, with beautiful views over the distant countryside.  Helicopter sight-seeing flights are available for side trips to Lake Eyasi or Lake Natron or beyond.

We would recommend spending at least 3 nights at Mwiba as there’s just too much to see and do, plus the lodge is perfect for re-connecting you with your inner explorer.  The one who wants to spend a bit of time around camp and not be in a vehicle 24-7…

Villa Maua


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Villa Maua

Game-viewing at Mwiba

If you do decide to tie the knot with Mwiba, just remember that it is through thick and thin, in sickness and health.  So if the wildebeest migration isn’t there in January, February or March, it’s nobody’s fault.  With the migration you can be in the right place at the right time and still miss it.  Which happened on my visit.  Even though conditions were ideal, with lots of rain and plenty of grass, the wildebeest herds were further north in the Ndutu area, where I would catch up with them a couple of days later.  They had been around Mwiba just days earlier and would likely be back the following week.


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Villa Maua

On our game drives in the area around the camp and further afield, we encountered good numbers of plains game, particularly zebras and giraffes.  Out on the plains we bumped into a group of 4 lions (2 females and their juvenile cubs); the two dominant males heading up the pride couldn’t have been far away.  The young cubs were seemingly fascinated by the vehicle, coming close to inspect it.  There were some elephants around as well, and the habitat in the Maswa Reserve – ideally visited on a full day outing from Mwiba – is ideal for cheetahs.  It appears to me that with as much water as there is right around Mwiba, it would also be a good dry season destination as many of the big game species like buffaloes are likely to move closer to remaining water sources then.


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I would not recommend Mwiba as the only game-viewing stop on a Tanzania trip, though. It would be best to combine it with at least one more camp in the Serengeti, Tarangire or elsewhere.  Mwiba would be perfect as perhaps the first or last stop on an East African trip.  A great introduction to the area and similarly, the perfect spot to wind down a trip, enjoying the setting and the lodge itself, and of course the people.


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Tsetse flies and what do to about them

There’s something else which may challenge your relationship with Mwiba:  the presence of tsetse flies.  On a warm day in the rainy season, in the thickets and bush in the general area around the camp and down to the hippo pool, you will most likely experience at least a few bites from these pesky insects which are seemingly impervious to bug repellant of any kind.  In cooler, drier weather they are not nearly as much of a nuisance.


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After years of ‘running scared’ in the presence of tsetse flies, I’ve finally come to the realization that protection is the name of the game.  You simply have to cover up.  Start with a long-sleeved light-colored (white is fine) ‘fishing’ shirt.  Apparently the extremely finely woven fabric – thin as it may be – presents a significant barrier to the tsetse flies.  I did not get a single bite on my upper body or arms, alternating a Columbia Sportswear and practically identical Patagonia brand long sleeve shirt.


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In addition, wear a solid long brimmed hat like a Tilley or similar with a neck flap and cover your hands – a favored target of tsetse flies – with light leather gloves.  Wear sturdy long pants (denim would work) and protect your ankles with full length gaiters. Tsetse flies almost always bite through socks and ankles are a favored target. So cover them tightly with gaiters and your battle is half won even before you leave the lodge. One more suggestion:  have a light-colored kikoi blanket ready to drape over your head and shoulders if you find yourself in a tight spot.  And don’t relax too soon when you pull into camp:  the tsetses are known to take a ride in the vehicle so give them a minute or so to disperse, before you take your hat off.  It is best to avoid black and dark blue clothing when you are in a tsetse fly area; they seem to be attracted to these colors.


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In next week’s blog:  I take a very short flight to Ndutu, the epicenter of the short-grass plains of the Serengeti, in search of the wildebeest migration.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Tanzania

14th October 2023

From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

Birds in flight and wildlife photographers have an uneasy relationship. Things go wrong as often as they go right. Getting focus-lock on a moving subject

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READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

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Botswana
Destinations

4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

What is the ‘secret sauce’ for an unforgettable few days on safari in Botswana? It starts with the animals, of course. The elephants, lions, giraffes, hippos

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Destinations
India

27th May 2023

India

India’s tiger, mammals and birds.

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Where to stay in Arusha, Tanzania

12th March 2021

Where to stay in Arusha, Tanzania


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Ngare Sero Lodge

Where to stay in Arusha, Tanzania

For most visitors to Tanzania, Arusha is an unavoidable one-night stand before heading out to their first safari destination.  We’ve been through that process a few times ourselves.  Arriving into JRO at night – tired and jet-lagged – after two long back-to-back flights from Houston.  Getting in line at Kilimanjaro Airport to complete entry formalities – and invariably underestimating the amount of time it would take.  Finally, being collected by your driver for the 45-minute plus drive to your hotel.


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A late dinner.  A somewhat restless night depending on how well or poorly you handle jet lag.  And then, suddenly, it’s the next day and you are off to Arusha Airport for your scheduled charter flight to points north, south or west.  Over the years, we’ve spent nights at Machweo Wellness, Arusha Coffee Lodge and Rivertrees, and have found them to be perfectly fine choices for the purpose.  This time around, I ended up spending a bit more time in Arusha due to my schedule, as I had to add a couple of additional nights  to obtain a negative Covid-19 test, now required for re-entry into the USA.


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Ngare Sero Lodge

Ngare Sero Lodge

A friend of mine spent several nights at Ngare Sero in February 2020, prior to a Kilimanjaro climb, and she gave the property a rave review.  Consequently, I was keenly anticipating spending my first night in Tanzania there, this last February.  I was not disappointed.  Ngare Sero is a beautiful old plantation lodge located in a large, park-like garden in a quiet and peaceful area, well off the main road.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Ngare Sero Lodge

With the addition of several garden cottages, the erstwhile private residence was successfully turned into a lodge which is ideal for a short stay either before or after a safari or Kilimanjaro climb.  In fact, we recommend a minimum stay of two nights.  It is  simply too beautiful a setting and there’s just too much to see and experience, for just one night.


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Ngare Sero Lodge

I spent the night in one of the garden rooms, which was spacious enough and had a good-sized bath and separate toilet, as well as a sitting area.  My private three-course dinner was served under canvas, on a large tile-covered patio, with tree frogs chirping in the distance and light rain adding some atmosphere.  Focaccia, watercress soup, steamed veggies, a mixed green salad, baked nile perch with homemade tartar sauce.  Nicely rounded off with fresh strawberries and a cup of hot chamomile tea.


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Ngare Sero Lodge

As I was to see on my quick introductory walk and also early the next morning when I did a ‘photo walk’, Ngare Sero has many different, attractive spots for meals.  Some are romantically tucked away overlooking a small lake or a stunningly beautiful forest.  On my short stay, I had barely enough time for a brief run through the property, crossing the picturesque foot-bridge over the lake.  Such a pretty scene, and definitely a spot where one could linger around sunset.  The surrounding garden was lush and beautiful and clearly harbors a wide variety of birds – all the more reason to spend more time at Ngare Sero than just the bare minimum one night.


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Ngare Sero Lodge

Although it was short, my stay was refreshing and invigorating.  Most importantly, Ngare Sero was quiet.  No traffic noise, no cars or motorbikes honking, no dogs barking or people moving about.  The perfect setting for some quality sleep.  Even so, being severely jetlagged, I was up at 3:30 am.  Wide awake.  It’s under circumstances like those that one rediscovers the meaning of the word – luxury.  In this case it was having a full tub of scalding hot water with nothing on my schedule for at least the next 90 minutes.  In-between taking some photos the next morning I enjoyed a light breakfast, from a menu with a surprisingly large variety of choices.  The next stop?  Arusha Airport.


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Legendary Lodge

Legendary Lodge

At Legendary Lodge in Arusha all the tables on the verandah are set for lunch every day.  Irrespective of the number of guests in the lodge on the day, or how many people will actually show up for the meal.  So I was told, when commenting on the number of place settings on the day.  What was left unsaid was that preparing just one or two tables simply wouldn’t look right and would detract from the carefully nurtured old world ambiance, the aura of understated elegance.


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Legendary Lodge

At Legendary Lodge – clearly – nothing is ever out of place, or short of perfect.  The former main residence now serves as the lounge and dining area, with beautiful garden views in practically every direction.   Spaced well apart, there are 12 large, attractive and well-designed cottages (two of which are family units) concealed among many large trees, shrubs and hedges, providing accommodation for about 28 guests.


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Legendary Lodge

The meals at Legendary Lodge were right up there with the best of the entire trip, certainly in the same league as its sister property Mwiba Lodge, which was also on my Tanzania itinerary.  For lunch on the first day, the a la carte menu listed several choices for starters, mains and dessert.  A soup, a green salad, a fish dish, pork belly, a vegetarian option, creme brulee or ice cream.   Everything sounded delicious and turned out to be so.  The presentation was impeccable  and the service smooth as silk.

The cottage room had lots of space with a fireplace (lit on demand), a king size bed with mosquito net, a large en suite bathroom with shower and full size tub right up against a window with views into the garden.


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Legendary Lodge

The massive garden at Legendary Lodge is filled with frangipani trees, fire lilies, jacarandas, and trimmed hedges, making for a soothing, relaxing environment to spend a night or two before safari or after a trek up to the summit of Kilimanjaro.  It was filled with bird song in the afternoons, and I happened to see some shy dikdik walking out of the forest as well as a bushbuck daintily making its way across a patch of lawn.


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Villa Maua

Villa Maua

I spent the last three nights of my Tanzania stay at Villa Maua, just off the center of town, awaiting the results of a Covid-19 test – in order to get back into the USA.  My stay at Villa Maua was pleasant and I felt well looked after, with someone always around to take care of a soft drink request, helping me arrange a driver to a nearby restaurant, or something else.  The meals which I enjoyed there, including the breakfasts, a couple of lunches and one dinner, were all excellent and nicely prepared and presented.


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Villa Maua

The room was spacious and I particularly enjoyed the tub, put to very good use for my first proper soak after a week without showering on Mt. Kilimanjaro.  The room had air conditioning, a TV (which I never switched on), ample packing space and a safe.  Villa Maua’s small garden, outside bar and indoor/outdoor dining spaces and small courtyard make for a cozy, interesting spot to spend a couple of days in Arusha.

With a bit of time on my hands, I did some running in the area which was quite challenging, given the altitude and the rather more hilly than southeastern Texas surroundings.  My advice to other would-be Arusha runners?  Watch out for the motorbikes, aka ‘boda-boda’s.  Many of their owners drive recklessly and way too fast and do not demonstrate a lot of road sense or respect for pedestrians.  What I would recommend is that you check out a few of the local eateries.  After several weeks of ‘safari’ food – nice as it was – I felt like having pizza one evening.


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Villa Maua

As it turned out a nearby restaurant – I discovered it on one of my runs – happened to be one of Arusha’s best pizza joints, among other things.  And so it was that I took a $2 cab ride to George’s Tavern on Haile Selassie Road, where I thoroughly enjoyed half of a perfectly delicious, good sized Neapolitan style pizza, which set me back about $8.  The other half of the pizza I took back to Villa Maua.  Can you leave pizza at room temperature overnight and enjoy another couple of pieces the following day for lunch?  In my experience, yes…


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Villa Maua

On my last night in Arusha I ventured out to yet another nearby eatery – the Taj –  this time specifically for some curry and rice.  I tried a chicken curry with plenty of rice and found it to be good and saucy, really flavorful and nicely spiced but not overpoweringly hot, with a hint of coconut.  Served with some chapati on the side, and a cold Coke, it was exactly what I wanted.  To be sure, the restaurant does not have much going for it in the way of surroundings or ambiance, with lots of plastic table covers, some questionable decor choices and perhaps one too many bright colors.  None of this detracted from the quality of the food though.


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Lake Duluti Lodge

Lake Duluti Lodge

En route to Kilimanjaro Airport on the day of departure, I stopped over for a site inspection and lunch at Lake Duluti Lodge which scored high marks from the perspective of someone spending a night or two there, prior to a safari or a Kili trek.  The rooms are superb with tons of space, lots of natural light, a huge tub, a shower with a view, big king size beds with mosquito nets, high ceilings and importantly, plenty of privacy.


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Lake Duluti Lodge

Lunch was tasty and expertly prepared and presented.  The grounds are massive and just beg to be explored – binoculars in hand – for what appears to be some awesome birds.  The property is on a working coffee plantation and there is a small, deep lake nearby – Lake Duluti – where one can do some canoeing.  The lake also has a nice dirt trail around it.  If I had time I would have strapped on my running shoes…


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Lake Duluti Lodge

In our blog post next Friday we will discuss my 2-night stay at Legendary Safaris’ Mwiba Lodge, a deluxe property in the far southern Serengeti, on the edge of the Maswa Game Reserve.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Nyerere National Park
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14th October 2023

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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

9th October 2020

Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs


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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

For many visitors to Africa, seeing the big cats is #1 on their wish list.  Nobody wants to go home only to have to say ‘no’ to the inevitable question about having seen lions.  Even though the total number of lions in Africa have dropped alarmingly over the last few decades – largely due to habitat loss – they are still relatively easily seen in most wilderness areas.  Lions are also prolific breeders under the right conditions – with enough prey animals around – so they bounce back quickly and predictably after setbacks such as prolonged droughts.  Which means that on your next – or first – trip to Africa, you will almost definitely bump into lions if you spend a few days in practically any major game reserve or national park.  In Southern or East Africa.  So, did you see lions?  Yes.


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Other big cats are less frequently seen.  Leopards are supremely adaptable creatures and they are common in almost any non-urban African habitat except true deserts.  What makes them difficult to find and observe is their naturally elusive, shy and mostly nocturnal nature.  They are mostly solitary and stealthy creatures of the night. That is when they are out and about in search of prey such as unsuspecting smaller antelope, monkeys, baboons and the like.  Consequently, visitors see them mostly very early in the mornings or in the late afternoon, when they start to get active after resting up.  In areas where they are habituated to the presence of vehicles, such as the Sabi Sand reserve in South Africa, in parts of the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, in private concessions in Northern Botswana and at Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, they are more readily seen as they don’t conceal themselves at the first sign of vehicles, movement or humans.  


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The other big African cat – the cheetah – is in a different league altogether.  It has a relatively tiny total population of about 7,000 in comparison with lions (approximately 25,000) and leopards (approximately 700,000).  Despite being as sparsely distributed as they are, cheetahs are quite visible where present, due to their diurnal nature and preferred habitat.  Cheetahs are adapted to hunt during the day which reduces competition from the nocturnal big cats, notably lions.  Cheetahs also prefer open terrain where they can use their amazing speed to its best advantage.  And they will often clamber onto anthills or stumps or other elevated spots to check out the area for potential prey – or danger.  Open terrain, broad daylight, a spotted cat perched on top of an anthill?  Bingo!  For me personally, a cheetah sighting is a highlight of any Africa trip.  They are just so rare, so beautiful and so special that even a brief glimpse of one of them will make your day.  

Here are some photos we took of cheetahs in six different areas in Southern and East Africa where they are regularly seen.  The captions summarize the back story about each photo and how it came to be.


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Selinda, Northern Botswana

This cheetah was part of a coalition of two brothers which used to move up and down along the Linyanti River in northern Botswana, spending weeks or sometimes months in an area.  For no apparent reason, they would then move along to a neighboring concession.  Less competition from lions or hyenas, more prey animals?  Who knows.  The reasons are hardly ever readily apparent.  The day on which we bumped into this particular cheetah and his brother, marked the first sighting of cheetahs on a game drive from Selinda, in several weeks.  So essentially, we got lucky. Being in the right habitat and spending enough time scanning open terrain along the Linyanti floodplain, just improved our luck somewhat.  We would get even luckier later that day, when we saw the cheetah coalition hunt and bring down an impala.  My advice to anyone wanting to see a cheetah kill?  Bring your best patience game as cheetahs take their time sizing up the area, the conditions and whatever their instinct dictates.  It took the brothers the better part of four hours to finally attempt a charge.  They were successful though.  Cheetahs are the most efficient of the big cats in terms of hunting success, bringing down about 40% to 50% of prey, as a percentage of total attempts.  By comparison leopards are successful about 30% to 40% of the time.  Lions bring up the rear in a significant way, being successful less than 20% of the time.  


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Tswalu, South Africa

Tswalu in the northern Cape Kalahari in South Africa is better known as one of the best places in Africa to see pangolins and aardvarks, but it is no slouch for some of the big cats, notably lions and cheetahs.  On our most recent visit to Tswalu (we will be returning this November) Kathy had set aside one afternoon to do some horseback riding.  We were at the stables and she was just about to set off into the veld with one of Tswalu’s beautiful steeds, when word came on the radio that a couple of cheetahs had been spotted.  Kathy and I looked at each other and there was no disagreement:  the horses would have to wait for another day.  It was a longish drive to get to the cheetahs, with the light fading fast by the time we pulled up to them.  Even so, the decision was the right one.  Looking in our direction in the gathering gloom, the cheetah’s ordinarily yellow eyes shone almost red.  The sighting would be brief but eminently memorable. 


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Masai Mara, Kenya

When I first saw these cheetahs on a game drive out of Mara Explorer Camp, one of the cheetahs had jumped on top of a game drive vehicle from Mara Intrepids.  I do not like to see behavior like that: it should have been prevented by the Mara Intrepids driver-guide.  The guides in the area are all aware of the propensity of some of the cheetahs to try to use the vehicle as an observation post.  And the guides know to avoid an incident, by staying clear of ‘known perpetrators’.  It is potentially dangerous for the guests and for the cheetahs.  Getting bitten or getting run over, respectively.  Too risky all round.  We left the scene, deciding to rather return early the next morning.  It made all the difference.  We had the cheetahs to ourselves for the better part of an hour, observing them walking around and getting onto anthills – not vehicles.  The way it should be.  


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Serengeti Plains, Tanzania

Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and its northernmost extension, the Masai Mara in Kenya, are likely Africa’s single best repository of cheetahs.  This is their habitat par excellence.  Open, rolling grassy plains with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and riverine thickets, and plenty of prey in the form of Thomson’s gazelles and impala.  Irrespective of the status of the annual wildebeest migration, the Serengeti and the Mara are great for the big cats, who have territories to defend and who do not move around with the wildebeest and the zebras.  In fact, on the day we saw this cheetah on a game drive out of Nomad Tanzania’s Lamai Serengeti Camp, we experienced a rare big cat trifecta:  lions, leopards and a cheetah.  All in one game drive, not during the migration season.  Other parts of the Serengeti where we have experienced above-average cheetah sightings include the southern Serengeti (Kusini camp) and the western Seronera area (Namiri Plains camp). 


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Hwange, Zimbabwe

Since we regularly started visiting Hwange National Park in north-western Zimbabwe in the 1990’s, we’ve come to recognize it as a good and reliable area for cheetah sightings.  Just like elsewhere in Africa, the Hwange cheetahs move around and can’t always be seen in the same spots.  So if you’re keen on seeing cheetahs on a trip to Zimbabwe, we would suggest including two different camps, such as Somalisa or The Hide or Khulu Bush Camp, combined with Little Makalolo or Linkwasha or Camelthorn.  And give yourself plenty of time to find the cheetahs; five to six nights in the area would be ideal.  This trio of young cheetahs were following their mother around and getting a lesson in patience.  She wanted them to stay back and stay low while she approached some antelope.  It was not to be.  They kept showing themselves and following too closely behind her.  Which naturally spooked the antelope. All in a day of growing up.  


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Mashatu, Botswana

Mashatu Game Reserve in far south-eastern Botswana is currently one of the best big cat destinations in Southern Africa.   Spend three or better yet four nights there and you will most likely get to see lions, leopards and cheetahs.  And not furtive ‘drive-by’ sightings either.  On a recent September visit to the area, we had multiple good sightings of both lions and leopards, and notched up two different cheetah sightings in the course of a 3-night stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  What makes Mashatu a particularly good bet for cheetahs – and other big cats – is the fact that off-road driving is allowed which means that you can get quite close to these magnificent cats.  For photographers this is a major advantage over many other areas where vehicles are not permitted off-road.  Also, compared with most other good big-cat destinations, the Mashatu properties namely Mashatu Lodge, Mashatu Tented Camp and Euphorbia are moderately priced – at about half the cost of camps of similar quality in northern Botswana.  We recommend combining a 3-night WalkMashatu foot safari with a few days at one of the Mashatu camps, to make the most of the area.  


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on one of the most popular and also instantly recognizable African mammals, the Giraffe.  There will be photographs, of course, as well as some information about places where they can be seen.  We will also review the various species you are likely to encounter in Southern and East Africa, and their conservation status.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

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Area
Destinations
Nyerere National Park
Ruaha
Tanzania

14th October 2023

From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

Birds in flight and wildlife photographers have an uneasy relationship. Things go wrong as often as they go right. Getting focus-lock on a moving subject

Read more

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

Read more
Botswana
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India

27th May 2023

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Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 2 FROM HOROMBO TO KIBO HUTS

30th April 2020

Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 2
FROM HOROMBO TO KIBO HUTS


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Marangu

Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 1

On what was my third Kilimanjaro climb, having summited via the Machame and Rongai Routes previously, I took the first steps up the Marangu Route – sometimes referred to as the ‘Coca-Cola’ Route – in mid-February 2021. 

While the Marangu Route is often given short shrift as being the shortest,  ‘easiest’ Kilimanjaro route, and the least scenic one, it is no less challenging than the other routes where and when it matters, which is on summit day.


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Like the Rongai route, the path to the summit on Marangu goes via Gilman’s Point and then Stella Point.  At the stage of the climb where you have used up just about  all your energy  – to reach Gilman’s Point – you have  essentially two more hours ahead of you, your lungs laboring mightily at an altitude of nearly 19,000 feet above sea level, before reaching Uhuru Point.  And then you have to turn around and retrace your steps, every one of them, all the way down to about 12,000 feet.  

But I’m getting ahead of myself.


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The hours leading up to the start of the climb take on somewhat of an air of familiarity by climb #3.  It starts with an overnight stay at Zara Tours’ rather mediocre hotel in Moshi (the food was a lot better this year!) where we assembled for an equipment check and pre-climb briefing conducted by our head guide, Joseph Majuto.  Just like the year before when he guided us on the Rongai Route, Joseph was energetic, super helpful and ever vigilant of my comfort, health and safety.


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The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we piled into a minibus and headed to a downtown supermarket to pick up some cold water and a couple of last minute items.  In my case suntan lotion and a couple of candy bars.  One year ago, in February 2020, the hotel was full with small groups of excited hikers coming and going constantly.  This time, there were just three tourists spending the night there:  myself and a German couple who were going to trek the Machame Route.


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Gone was the air of excitement, the chatter, camaraderie and laughter.  Replaced by a sense of resignation, and some hope, these many months into the coronavirus crisis.  It was no different at the Marangu Gate.  I was one of only three persons to check in for the Marangu climb on the day.  There were about 10 people doing day-trips to Mandara Camp and back, to be out of the gate by 6:30 pm.


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Thu 18 Feb: Mandara Gate to Mandara Huts

The first day’s hike is an easy walk of 8 km (5 miles), all the way within a perfectly awesome rainforest, eventually alongside a burbling mountain stream.  Forest birds were – as usual – in short supply, but I did hear some Turacos calling; likely Hartlaub’s.    It wasn’t until we reached the pretty Mandara Huts campsite that we saw any notable wildlife, being some habituated Sykes’ Monkeys.  We did encounter a shy Dik-dik antelope in the forest as well.

Even though we covered only 5 miles the total duration of the hike was nearly 5 hours, with a stopover for a boxed lunch and a couple of other rest stops thrown in.


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You can’t reach the summit on Day 1, but you can significantly improve your chances of reaching it, by taking it easy, early on.  There’s no deadline, no cut-off time to be at any specific point, and there’s no special medal for a speedy summit.  Start too fast and you will almost certainly struggle later on.  Yes the pace may sometimes feel glacially slow, but don’t let it bother you.  Take a look at the persons rushing up the mountain.  You may see them again later, heading down well before summiting – after running out of gas.


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As a solo climber I had the luxury of having an entire 4-bedded hut at Mandara Huts to myself, which made getting settled in, a lot less onerous than within the tight confines of a tent.  The room has a light (not that great but better than none), ample gear storage space, 4 bunk beds with foam mattresses and cushions, and a good sized table with three chairs.

At the start of the day, I had taken 250mg Diamox which resulted in a rather persistent and pronounced diuretic effect.  In the evening I reverted back to the ‘standard’ guideline which is to take just 125mg, twice a day.  Until early on the summit night, when I popped another 250mg.  Diamox (acetazolamide) being a prescription drug which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.

Legendary Lodge


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At the end of Day 1,  I was feeling good, with no major aches or pains.  The only area of concern was a hotspot on the sole of my left foot, in a calloused area just behind the big toe.  Keeping your feet healthy and in good condition is paramount on a long (45 mile) hike like this one.  So I immediately sterilized the area and used a gel plaster to cover the hotspot, to prevent a blister from forming.  It worked.  I replaced the gel plaster a couple of times further along the hike and there was no further damage.


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Marangu

Three common Kilimanjaro climb pitfalls to avoid

What are the three most common mistakes made in the planning and execution of a Kili climb?

#1:  Not adding an additional acclimating day and opting for the minimum # of days on a climb.

Unless you are a super-conditioned athlete – and even then – attempting the Machame Route in just six days or the Marangu Route in just five, is looking for trouble.  Spending an additional day on the mountain at altitude makes a huge difference in the chance for a successful summit.  So spend a bit more time in Tanzania and pay the extra money for one more day: it will be worth your while.  This is even more important on the shorter routes like Marangu and Umbwe, both of which can theoretically be done in 5 days.  Definitely add an extra night on these climbs; even then your body is going to have a tough time to adjust due to the short, rapid ascent.


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#2:  Flying into Kilimanjaro the night before starting your Kili climb. 

This is not a good idea, particularly if you live in a city close to sea level and you have to take one or more long flights crossing as many as 9 or 10 time zones to get to Tanzania.   Departing from sea level, spending 30-plus hours on the journey, only getting to Tanzania the night before – and then setting out on the climb the very next day – is decidedly risky.  Like asking your body to go from zero to 60 mph overnight.

Villa Maua


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On the other hand, spending 3 nights or so in Tanzania at around 1,500 meters above sea level, such as in the Arusha or Moshe area, can make a decisive difference for the better.  You’ve already made a significant investment in time and money to get this far, so don’t risk it by starting up the mountain too soon.  Spending a few nights at a lodge such as Ngare Sero, on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru just outside Arusha, will be hugely beneficial.  There’s plenty of activities to keep you busy, including hiking on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru.  Get over the jetlag, rest up a bit and give your body a chance to acclimate to the mile-high altitude before you pile on more altitude over the next few days.  If you’re keen, we can even arrange a 3-day hike of Mt. Meru which would be the ideal fine-tuning of your Kilimanjaro preparation.


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#3.  Starting off at too fast a pace

You’ve done the training, you’re feeling fit and you want to get to the top.  Fast.  So off you go, charging up the mountain, right out of the gate.  Big mistake.  Kili is not a race and there is no special certificate for beating the pack.  It takes 6 or 7 days or even more, and the real test only starts around midnight on summit day.  That is when a Kili climb goes from relatively easy to sometimes super difficult, depending on the conditions.  Not conserving your energy earlier on will cost you dearly then.  Always mind your guide’s entreaties to go slowly.  Pole pole.  

Of course, several other factors come into play, including good physical preparation, proper equipment, picking the best time of the year for your climb, and having a competent head guide in charge.


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Friday 19 February:  Mandara to Horombo Huts

From Mandara Huts, it is a long, steady, uphill hike to Horombo Huts, where we would spend the next two nights.  Along the way, the habitat changes from rainforest to open macchia scrub. Ordinarily, both sides of the trail would be covered by fairly dense stands of protea bushes.  Not this time.  Almost as soon as we emerged from the rainforest, we started to see the devastation caused by the recent (Oct. 2020) fire which destroyed some 28 square kilometers of mostly grass and shrub-covered areas on the southern slopes of the mountain.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Signs of regeneration are very much evident with fresh shoots of proteas visible everywhere.  It will take several years for the area to regain its previous splendor though.  

From Horombo, we did a 3-hour hike up to the Zebra Rocks for some additional altitude acclimatization.  The afternoon – as the travel brochures used to state – was ‘at leisure’.  Time to catch up on some notes, send a few emails and texts (struggling with a spotty and intermittent cell phone signal) and simply resting up for the next couple of days which would be the toughest part of the climb.


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Our blog post next week will take us all the way to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro and down again, with heavy snow on summit day creating tough hiking conditions.  On the way down – at Stella Point –  we crossed paths with a world-famous kayaker – Aleksander Doba – on his way up to the summit.

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