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South Africa

Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1

26th February 2021

Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1


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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1

An African photographic safari is likely one of the most intriguing, multi-layered vacation experiences imaginable. It starts with the place. Often remote, sometimes romantic, occasionally jaw-droppingly awesome.

Then there’s the people. They’re invariably passionate about wildlife conservation, about the community within which they operate and about providing their guests with an experience which they may cherish for the rest of their lives. They’re fun to be around, never boring and their skills are remarkable.


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The top guides are accomplished all round naturalists, effective communicators, conversationalists and diplomats. Some are expert bird-watchers, or professional photographers.  Qualified walking guides can bring down a charging elephant with one shot. They avoid getting guests into a situation which may require such drastic action of course…

The mammals, birds and other creatures which are to be found around the camps and beyond, often steal the show. Finding and seeing them and learning more about their behavior and relationships are after all why most of us go on safari. 


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Motse

When you visit a top African safari property like Tswalu Kalahari Reserve in South Africa’s northern Cape province, it becomes easy to see how place, people, guiding and wildlife conservation can converge to create a unique and deeply satisfying experience.

Tswalu has a certain style and visitors are introduced to it even before they arrive in camp. The last leg of the journey there – from either Cape Town or Johannesburg – is usually as a passenger in Tswalu‘s stylish, high performance Pilatus PC-12. This sleek, pressurized turboprop gets you to Tswalu at a brisk 325 miles per hour, at a cruising altitude of 30,000 feet.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Descending into the hill and dune-studded woodland Kalahari, its singular visual appeal becomes obvious even before the Pilatus touches down with a brief squeal as the rubber tires meet the asphalt runway.  The impact of the red sand dunes, deep blue skies and golden grass is unavoidable:  there’s nowhere else like it.  Add the unmistakable look of the Korannaberg Mountains visible in the background and you know immediately where you are.

Arrival formalities are deftly dealt with at the reception center which has been more or less taken over by a giant Sociable Weaver colony. These cheeky-looking birds are all over the place, checking out new arrivals.


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Motse

The Place

We found the new iteration of Tswalu to be much to our liking.  The interiors were lighter with the textured walls painted in shades of grey and neutral, sand colors.  The traditional thatched roofs had been retained. Overall the effect was pleasing, cool, and classic.  There was nothing jarring or out of place.


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Motse

We also approve of the enlarged outside patio area where a large natural wood deck overlooks two pools and a water hole. Extending the overhead cover (natural wood  poles) now provides shade on practically the entire veranda, where we enjoyed several of our meals.  Kathy made use of the larger infinity pool and a smaller pool below while I was trying to capture some images of male masked weavers, constructing nests in an acacia tree close to the pool.


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Motse

The  rooms were just as spacious as we remembered them from our first visit.  And they were still 100% effectively air-conditioned, with good lighting, an inviting outdoor relaxation area, and a clear view over the water hole, from our room. And stocked with a tasty range of snacks including dried fruit and traditional dried beef sausage.


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The People

By the time we went out on our first game drive, we had already met Barry Peiser who would be our private guide for the next three days.  Barry – a prolific photographer –  clearly enjoys offering advice and tips on wildlife and landscape photography.  His favorite time of year at Tswalu is winter, as this allows him to spend the whole day out on the reserve with guests. The cooler conditions mean that animals don’t rest from the heat as much as they do in summer, and there’s more opportunity for photography.


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Between Barry and our expert tracker William Gaotswenwe, we had the ideal team to venture out in search of cheetah, lion, aardvark, sable antelope, pangolin, honey badger and caracal.  William is renowned for  never missing a clue or a sign left in the wild by an animal. Quiet and focused, when William signals with a raised hand from the tracker seat for the guide to stop the vehicle, nobody argues. Just a cursory glance at fresh tracks left in the red Kalahari sand, and he knows exactly where to go, or which direction to take.


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A Kalahari night drive

Over the next few days we always seemed to be in just the right position and I was able to capture some of my best ever images of the Kalahari wildlife.  Things started off with a bang on our very first night drive when we had a great sighting of an aardvark out in the open, just walking around, checking out potential feeding sites.  I made a rookie mistake by using a shutter speed which was just slightly too low to stop the motion and get a good, sharp image.  I will blame it on working with relatively new equipment (second trip with the Nikon D-850), but really should have nailed it.  Rule #1 in wildlife photography is to get a sharp image; anything blurry is pretty much useless, unless of course it is an intended effect.  So when you are in an ultra low-light situation, don’t worry about graininess or noise, that can be fixed (to a degree) in post-processing.  Your overriding aim should always be to get a sharp image.


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During the course of the night, we saw several other Kalahari specials including bat-eared foxes, springhares, scrub hares, an African wild cat, several large spotted genet, many dwarf field mice, and various gecko species.


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Lion Pride Squabbles

The following day we were out early for a game drive, the specific mission being to find the southern lion pride   Which we duly did, but only after we had enjoyed some great views of a brown hyena.  Somewhat uncharacteristically, it stopped and looked straight into the camera for a few seconds, before loping off.  I think if I had missed that shot (considering what had happened the previous night with the aardvark), I would have been ready to sell my camera.  The brown hyenas are unusual, rarely seen animals.  They are mostly nocturnal, becoming crepuscular (being out around sunrise and sunset) when it is cold.


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We crossed the public road into the southern sector of Tswalu, where the search for the lions would begin in earnest.   With master tracker William and guide Barry reading the tea leaves – tracks left by the lions along the road – we soon found them walking towards a rocky ridge.

There were three adult females with 6 cubs, followed at a distance by two young males just reaching maturity. Not known to us – at least not initially – was that we had stepped into a family squabble. The older female lion – who by now had given birth to a new set of cubs – was trying to emancipate the two young males, the older brothers. They would have none of it. At least not yet. 


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The two young males had become the innocent ‘victims’  of instinct, which rules lion behavior. Due to their size and power they had become a threat to their mother’s new set of  young cubs.  Instinctively, she had become extremely wary of letting them approach closely. At one stage when they got too close she rushed up to them snarling and with claws flying, forcibly letting them know that they were no longer welcome to the pride. It was time for them to go out on their own and find their own  way in the world.


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This is not an easy task and in fact the life of a young emerging male lion is fraught with perils including starvation, attack by territorial males and other predators. They are at their most vulnerable at this stage of their lives, having the ability but not yet the truly developed skills to hunt successfully.  

Eventually the two young males settled down a respectable distance away from their mother who then resumed feeding her three babies.  We mentally wished them the best of luck as we returned to camp.


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In our blog post next Friday we remain at Tswalu to take a closer look at some more special desert animals including Bat-eared Foxes and Suricates (meerkats), and we travel to a distant part of the reserve in search of Black Rhino.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town

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Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town


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Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town

Starting as a child with my family and later with my wife and our two young boys, I spent many a summer holiday in Cape Town.  For us up-country visitors, a cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain was something we did on every visit to Cape Town, an annual pilgrimage of sorts.  It was never a question of if, just when.  We’d try to pick a good day with not too much wind or cloud cover, park close to the base station and fall in line for tickets.


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Somehow, despite all those trips up and down, it never occurred to us to hike up the mountain.  Sure, we’d walk around once we reached the top, explore a few of the trails and peer down some scary looking cliffs, or stare out at Robben Island in the distance.   In hindsight, I do recall looking down from the cable car a few times and seeing hikers making their way up one of the trails.  Specifically the one which I now know to be India Venster.   I do remember being somewhat bemused by seeing people climbing Table Mountain.   The cable car was convenient, safe and fast.  Why walk when you can ride…


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Fast forward four decades, and I’m the one on the trail, slowly making my way, one step at a time,  to the top.  Of course, the only thing hiking the mountain and taking the cable car have in common is that they both get you to the summit, or the base.  Nothing else.  Hiking up the mountain takes a little longer,  but not so much – lately.  The combined waiting time for tickets (one line) and the actual ride (another line) often exceeds two to three hours.  More than enough time for a reasonably fit person to hike up Platteklip Gorge which is the fastest route up the mountain.


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Hiking the mountain has many other rewards, beyond just making it to the top.  Number one being the views.  Weather permitting, all of the hikes have amazing views – some more so than others.  I have yet to hike India Venster but I am told that its views of the city bowl, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, and the ocean in the background, are among the best of any of the routes.


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That should be reason enough.  But there’s more.  It is only when you’re out there on foot that you discover the full extent of the biodiversity of the mountain.  On some of the routes like Skeleton Gorge you’ll be walking within a typical afro-montane forest, seemingly in a different world, yet just a stone’s throw from the heart of the city.  Pretty much anywhere on the mountain you’ll discover plants or flowers you’ve never seen before.


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Chances are that they will be endemic to the area,  simply because more than  1,500 of the 2,200 or so plants found in the greater Table Mountain complex do not occur anywhere else in the world.    On my first Table Mountain hike the most notable plant I became acquainted with was the blister bush, or mountain celery.  Stay clear!  If you brush up against its leaves (particularly bruised ones) and then get exposed to sunlight, you will likely develop some painful blisters in a day or two. Our guide Lauren Medcalf has a particular interest in botany and she was keen  to point out some fascinating fynbos species ranging from delicate daisies and ericas to lilies, proteas in abundance and many more.

One more benefit of hiking the mountain:  bragging rights.  Climb Table Mountain and you’ve conquered one of the world’s seven official new wonders of nature, the only one to be located in an urban area.


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Do not underestimate the mountain though.  It is notorious for rapid, unexpected and sometimes dramatic changes in weather.  So go prepared with some warm clothing and extra water, and go with a qualified, experienced mountain guide.  None of the routes up to the summit are easy and they require a decent level of fitness. With some preparation and the right frame of mind most people should be able to hike Platteklip Gorge; it is pretty much the equivalent of an hour and a half or so of climbing steps; some a little bit irregular but nothing much more than that.  I found Skeleton Gorge to be more strenuous, due to the considerable distance and elevation gain.


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My most recent hike (in Dec. 2020) was in fact the Platteklip Gorge route, guided by Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers.  During the summer months much of the hike is in direct sunlight so it is advisable to get an early start to avoid the heat of the day.  We were fortunate to be able to climb on a foggy, misty day, which turned what might otherwise have been a bit of a slog into a mystical, magical experience.


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From the parking lot, we walked up on the western side of the trail, ascending briefly to a scenic cliff overlook (we had to imagine the view, due to the fog…) and then traversed some flat terrain until we got to the ‘official’ start of the trail.

Platteklip Gorge is the most popular hike on the front side of Table Mountain, and it can be done by most people who are reasonably fit and mobile.  No special skills or climbing ability needed.  It takes a while to find your rhythm but soon enough, you’ll feel your pulse rate increase, you’ll start to perspire and before you know it, you’re halfway there.


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The hike follows a well laid out switchback path with mostly rock steps and it winds its way ever upwards, increasing in elevation by about 1,000 feet or so.  The gorge narrows towards the top, where there are some prominent rocks for a photograph or two.  At the summit, you’re barely 15 minutes from the cable car terminus building.


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Other than a few runners and other hikers passing us, there were very few people on the summit of Table Mountain that day.  This was partially due to the foggy conditions, but mostly because of the Covid situation.   We took a quick ride down on the cable car; for the first time ever in my experience we were given the choice to have the car rotate or not.  Must be as a result of the three of us being the only passengers in the car which ordinarily takes as many as 60 persons.


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Lauren was also the guide on my previous Table Mountain hike (in March 2020) when we made the climb up Skeleton Gorge and down Nursery Ravine.  That time, we started the hike in the beautiful Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, having paid the regular entry fee.  From there the climb goes up the back of Table Mountain. The first half is shaded and much of it is inside a forested ravine, with shrub and moss-covered slopes, shrouded mostly in shadows.  Along the way, there are a few moderately challenging rock scrambles and a couple of conveniently placed ladders to negotiate.  Take it easy and it’s all doable.


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As we got closer to the top, we started to experience some spectacular views over the city and Table Bay – and then we were there.  At the top of the mountain, standing on a rock, experiencing the joy and sense of achievement that come with completing a strenuous hike.  All in all, it was a tough climb, made less so by stopping a couple of times for some snacks and drinks.  Eventually, we enjoyed a light lunch break on the sandy “beach” at the (then empty) Hely-Hutchinson water reservoir. It’s one of five reservoirs on the mountain which supplies the city of Cape Town with fresh drinking water.


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I consider myself fortunate to have been introduced to Lauren Medcalf by a mutual acquaintance, Terry MacBean of Wilro Cape.  Lauren is the owner and founder of Mother City Hikers, the company which we and several of our Safari Pros colleagues recommend for our guests who want to climb the mountain, or just do some hiking in Cape Town.  Lauren has all the attributes of a great mountain hiking guide:  passion, competence, experience and the people skills to make the outing fun and exciting for hikers of any skill level.   She is knowledgeable, well-prepared, authoritative when needed, yet friendly and caring at the same time.


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Here are some extracts from an interview with Lauren from December 2020:

How and when did Mother City Hikers come about?  What was the impetus/inspiration that led to it?  What was it that got you personally interested in hiking and exploring nature in the first place? 

Mother City Hikers started almost 11 years ago! I was often out on Table Mountain (TM) exploring and enjoying my days as when I first arrived from the USA I worked in a restaurant in the evening so I had my days free. I had a wonderful hiking buddy who knew so many of the trails, and he loved all the different fynbos species. His name was Brian Georgeson – a ship’s captain. He passed away a year ago at the age of 75 but we hiked together for the last 10 years of his life. Brian took me on many of the lesser known routes and we would often see people on any/all of the trails who needed some guidance, assistance, food/water/sunscreen, etc. We would help them in whatever way we could and be on our way. I really felt the need to get people off the most common routes with loads of others and get them on the lesser known and more peaceful paths. I wanted to take the guesswork out of it all for others. There is so much you need to know in order to ‘do’ TM right. I wanted to be the one with the knowledge and have the others relax and enjoy it all.

What was it that got you personally interested in hiking and exploring nature in the first place? 

I grew up in the flatlands of America so there wasn’t much hiking. But I can remember hiking a few times with my family and my Grandfather. Those memories of exploring and enjoying nature have stayed with me for life. I met my South African husband in Colorado where we lived in the mountains of Aspen. Living there for 4 years before coming to South Africa really cemented my love for nature and wilderness areas.

What would you suggest for a first time hiker of average ability, maybe on a one time ever visit to Cape Town?  

This is a tricky one as it depends on what they are looking for. There are so many routes to choose from. I would say that most people want to get to the ‘top’ or ‘flat’ part of TM so that lessens the amount of routes to choose from if you are going near the Cableway area. There are no ‘easy’ ways to get to the top so the person really has to want to hike up. If they are up for a less strenuous hike just to get out into nature and learn about the mountain more I would highly recommend our walk on the Pipe Track which goes about 1/3 of the way to the top on the 12 Apostles side of TM. This is a +/-3 hour, out and back route that really shows the beauty of our mountain and there are hardly any others out there!

Or for someone looking for a more challenging hike?  

India Venster is a really excellent and varied hike with some good challenge to it. Although it is short-distance wise, it’s our most technical hike we guide our clients on. If that kind of adventure isn’t your thing and you’re looking for a challenge I would suggest hiking Tranquility Cracks. This is a super scenic and quiet route hiking up and down the 12 Apostles side of TM.

What is your most commonly requested hike and why do you think it is popular?  

Lions Head! It is so nice but oh so busy with many, many hikers on it. The reasons people choose it is because someone they know that has been here has told them about it. Also it was included in ‘top 20 short hikes in the world’ by National Geographic in 2014 and 2015 so has gained a lot of notoriety through that.

Any hiking options that are not too strenuous and would be enjoyed by people with limited physical ability? 

See Pipe Track blurb above. OR the Maclears Beacon walk which goes from the upper Cableway Station (you take cableway up and down mountain and hike at the top) all the way over the the actual highest point on TM (5km/3 mile round trip)

Do you have any personal favorite spots in and around Table Mountain or elsewhere on the Peninsula? 

I absolutely adore a hike up Woody Ravine and down Kasteelspoort on the 12 Apostles side of TM. The views and hike are just gorgeous. A special trip every now and again into Orange Kloof which is a restricted area (need a permit which is not super easy to get-needs to be done in advance as there are only 12 permits per day). I LOVE hiking in Cape Point Nature Reserve as the hiking is gentle and there are some beautiful rock pools and tidal pools to swim in after the hikes too. The opportunity to see more wildlife here is greater than anywhere else on the Cape Peninsula too. The other spot I love to hike is in Jonkershoek in Stellenbosch which has something for all ability levels and also waterfalls and rock pools to enjoy.

What about families with children? 

I recommend the Pipe Track for families, Silvermine Nature Reserve (which is just past Constantia/half way over to Noordhoek), and Newlands Forest. I think allowing kids to be kids and allowing them to have fun along the way is key. It depends on their age and ability level but there really is something for everyone here.


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In our blog next week, we will take a look at the remarkable bio-diversity and landscapes of Tsavo, including the tuskers of southern Tsavo East and a couple of outstanding natural features of Tsavo West, the Shetani Lava Flow and Mzima Springs.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa


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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

As a child growing up in South Africa I had no concept of chimpanzees as wild animals. Even well into my teens – by which time I had seen and admired many large mammals in the Kruger National Park – chimpanzees were at best caricatures of real, wild animals. They were movie stars or advertising props, or used to entertain gullible people at circuses or carnivals.


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It was not until many years later that I came to know that chimpanzees used in the entertainment industry are invariably babies or youngsters. Around age eight they become practically impossible to control and can no longer be relied upon to perform their unnatural learned tricks such as walking upright or riding a little tricycle. At that point their future becomes even more grim than their past.


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So when I saw my first wild chimpanzees in Uganda many years later, it was a jaw-dropping experience. I could hardly believe it. Chimpanzees were real. Here, right in front of me, were several of them practically tumbling down a high tree, crashing through the vegetation and unleashing the weirdest spectrum of noise and sound. The most telling moment was when one chimpanzee hopped onto an horizontal branch and looked straight at me.  Or maybe at the person next to me.  I felt an instant sense of connection, like locking eyes with another human being.  It felt strange and somewhat unsettling, but perhaps not surprising, given the  close relationship between chimpanzees and humans.   Humans share about 99% of our DNA with chimpanzees, making them our closest living relatives.


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Over the years, we’ve done several chimpanzee treks in Uganda (in three different areas), as well as in the Nyungwe Forest area in Rwanda, and most successfully of all, out of Greystoke Mahale in the Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania.


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Budongo Forest Reserve, Uganda

My very first chimpanzee trek was in Uganda’s Budongo Forest Reserve.  Budongo Forest Reserve is a beautiful rainforest location with incredible biodiversity,  including nine different species of primates, 360 species of birds, over 290 different types of butterflies and some of the oldest trees in Uganda. In retrospect, the chimp trek at Budongo seemed a lot less of an ‘effort’ than elsewhere.  Perhaps we were just lucky on the day.  After a walk of less than 2 miles over fairly even terrain, along a rudimentary trail, we came upon a small group of chimpanzees.  Hearing them before seeing them, as is almost always the case.   They  were initially up in the trees, but not for long.


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Soon enough, our small party of travelers were fortunate to see one individual seemingly posing for the cameras, on a horizontal branch in a small clearing. I did not have the right lens otherwise I might have had some really good chimp pics!  My short zoom lens was just not enough; a 70-200 or 100-400 zoom would both have been better choices.  At one stage several of the chimps literally ‘fell’ from the trees, grasping one or two seemingly flimsy twigs as they came crashing down. You don’t see that kind of stuff in the movies! It was simply awesome!


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Budongo Forest can be included on any Murchison Falls itinerary, probably best at the end of the segment, before returning to Entebbe/Kampala. The night prior to the chimp trek at Budongo we slept at Budongo Eco Lodge, a very pleasant ‘no frills’ lodge right on the edge of the forest. The big advantage of staying here is that you can walk literally right out of the lodge, to the start of a chimpanzee trek or birdwatching outing. No additional driving involved.


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Kibale Forest, Uganda

A day or so later, on the same Uganda trip, we trekked for chimps at Kibale Forest.  While the ‘success rate’ for seeing chimps at Kibali is quite high – more than 90% – chimpanzees are mostly arboreal and often fast-moving.  Which means that sometimes you will only catch a few glimpses of them as they  scurry from branch to branch, well hidden in thick vegetation, high in a tree.  Which is mostly what happened to us on this day.  It turned out to be a frustrating and ultimately rather disappointing outing. There was a lot of hiking involved. We trudged around this admittedly beautiful forest for nearly three hours without actually getting any really good looks at the chimps. There were a few of them scampering around the tree-tops but with no unobstructed views or any chance at photography, we all felt a bit  glum at the end of the proceedings.


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On the way back to the lodge – in the vehicles – we spotted some chimps in the trees and got some decent looks at several of them descending to the forest floor. We tried to get some better looks by following them into the undergrowth but it was not to be…


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On a later visit to Kibale two members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team had only slightly better luck with the chimps.  The temperature was mild and we were fortunate to have some cloud cover. Upon entering the park, we met some of the guides for a pre-hike briefing. We learned a couple of useful tips, for example, that there are ants in the forest and it is highly recommended that you roll your socks over your pants to prevent the ants from biting your ankles while you’re looking up at  the chimps. On the day, there were two groups of 6 trekkers, each having one guide and any number of porters to carry your gear.  Getting a porter is highly recommended since you need to carry your own water. The forest itself was very thick but the paths were well defined and the terrain was quite flat and easy.


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Almost immediately the guide spotted a female chimpanzee with a baby, high up in a tree. They were feeding on a fig tree but apparently the fruit was not quite ripe yet. The chimps were difficult to see at that height due to the dense foliage, and after a few minutes we moved on. The guide knew the location of other fig trees so we traveled to the edge of the forest to see if we couldn’t find a larger troupe. No luck there.  Fortunately, word came by radio that the other group had spotted some chimps a short distance away. Off we went.  Since the sun had not really come out during the day the chimps were still in the trees where it was cool. This made for poor visibility but with some patience we managed to get some useful photos. Overall the Kibale experience was good – the success rate for spotting chimps is quite high. Visitors are only allowed one hour with the chimps and it goes by fast.


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Kyambura Gorge, Uganda

Our third chimp trekking outing in Uganda was at Kyambura Gorge. At Kyambura the maximum group size is up to 8 and the guides are armed. There are fewer chimps in the gorge than at Kibale, but it is a much smaller area.  The success rate is solid – if not not quite as good as at Kibale.


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After another briefing from the guides we set off into the gorge. The decline is extremely sharp and you really need some good solid hiking boots. There is a river in the middle of the gorge with paths running along both shores and a bridge connecting them. Luckily for us when we got to the bottom we immediately heard the chimps and our guide lead us straight to them. We spotted a large 35 year old male on the ground and proceeded to follow him as best we could. He would walk for a while and stop and glance at us and then continue his walk. He wasn’t distressed at all by our presence. Eventually he stopped and our entire group caught up so we were all able to take photos. Strangely, though, the chimp doubled back and actually wound up walking past us at close range (about a foot) which worried our guide. Thankfully he just passed right on by.  It was an  incredible sighting.


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Mahale Mountains, Tanzania

Greystoke Mahale is tucked into a narrow sandy strip along the edge of Lake Tanganyika, below the densely forested Mahale Mountains with the mountains of the Democratic Republic of Congo visible about 30 miles across the lake. The mountain and the lake.  Most people would be hard pressed to pick a favorite or decide which of the two is the most dominant feature. They are both equally impressive and both essential to the Greystoke experience.


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Mahale is best known as a sanctuary and research area for a group of about 60 habituated chimpanzees, plus several hundred more wild ones which inhabit the national park. Having trekked for chimpanzees previously in three different areas of Uganda I can say that the Mahale experience was by far the best I have experienced. The chimps are very well habituated and hence very tolerant of humans being close to them. The leafy ever-green forest habitat is superb and makes for a perfect backdrop. If you’ve never seen chimps before and want to do so, or if they are your favorite animals, a visit to the Mahale Mountains National Park should definitely be on your short list.


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Even if there were no chimpanzees here it would be a more than worthwhile destination. Amazing views, the super deep-water swimming opportunities, fishing, kayaking, birding, hiking – the area has it all and more. We spent quite a bit of time boating (on a motorized dhow) but it is also possible to just relax and take it easy. The beach at Greystoke rivals many a coastal resort area, with the prettiest lake imaginable spilling out onto a white sandy beach. 

On our first afternoon we spent 30 minutes or so suspended in what is estimated to be 17% of all of the freshwater in the entire world. Lake Tanganyika is one of the world’s cleanest lakes due to the absence of industry, and that is not likely to change soon.


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The following day we woke up to what promised to be another warm and rather muggy morning on the shore of Lake Tanganyika. And so it was.  At breakfast at 08:00A we were informed that the chimpanzees – our focus for the day – had been sighted and that they were about one hour’s ‘gentle walk’ away. So off we went single file into the forest up and down but mostly just up and often rather steeply so. We went through a couple of dry rocky streams with a little water here and there, sometimes scrambling up a slope, other times crouching beneath some low branches.


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We stopped a couple of times for water (you carry your own water bottle & the guides provide re-fills) and to take a breath of air. Without exception, we were sweating heavily and feeling the strain of two days’ worth of solid exercise.

As we approached their position, we could hear the chimps long before we saw them. They were being very loud, making a range of sounds including some exuberant whoops and screams. And then, without much introduction, there they were. First one chimp high in a tree, then another one sliding down a tree stump and soon enough there were seven or eight of them visible in every direction.  By then we had donned surgical masks to prevent the transmission of colds and other human ailments to the chimps.


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Over the next hour or so we moved positions several times as the chimps either descended from or ascended into the trees. We observed quite a bit of interaction between individuals: young and old, they all apparently know their place and respect authority.

We could see the chimps very well but photographic conditions were not great. Low light inside the forest gallery, and severe backlighting issues against the bright sky. Several of the younger chimps did their best to show off their acrobatic skills but in the poor light and with limited visibility (too many leaves and twigs!) it was just about impossible to capture the action. I did manage a few decent portraits and some limited interaction, mostly feeding and grooming.


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Every now and then we’d follow one or two of the chimps along one of the many footpaths in the forest. Our guide Robert knew all the chimps by name, sex, age and rank, and gave us ample warning when a ‘naughty’ individual was close by. We observed individuals of all ages ranging from about 6 months to well over 50 years. They were mostly quiet and not very demonstrative.

When our allotted 1-hour viewing time was over, we lowered the cameras, took a last look at the chimps who were moving into thicker bush and re-grouped a short distance away to have a drink of water. It was a happy group of campers who trudged back to the lodge. We were all very tired, perhaps even a bit dehydrated because of the heavy exertion in the hot humid conditions… Nobody cared – we had seen the chimps!

By the time we got back to the lodge just over 3 hours had elapsed since we first set out earlier that morning. It felt great to enjoy a cup of tea before we took the sandy path back to our respective rooms for a much-needed shower.


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Mahale Mountains NP, Tanzania – Trek #2

The following morning’s chimp trek was every bit as much fun and exciting as the previous day. Starting from the Japanese research station, the going was a bit easier than the previous day. Even so, by the time we got onto the chimps, a good 45 minutes had elapsed and it was deja vu all over again. We were hot and sweaty in the humid conditions. Being overcast, the temperature was several degrees lower than the previous day, which helped somewhat.

The following morning’s chimp trek was every bit as much fun and exciting as the previous day. Starting from the Japanese research station, the going was a bit easier than the previous day. Even so, by the time we got onto the chimps, a good 45 minutes had elapsed and it was deja vu all over again. We were hot and sweaty in the humid conditions. Being overcast, the temperature was several degrees lower than the previous day, which helped somewhat.


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It turns out that despite their seemingly idyllic situation, the chimps were far from living in a cocoon of innocence. They are tangled up in political and sexual spats and fights on a never-ending basis, and the maneuvering and plotting can be Machiavellian. Imagine pretending to be removing ectoparasites from a rival, but not doing so in fact. Thus setting up the unwitting beneficiary/victim for a long-lasting negative outcome and potentially debilitating illness.


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For a while there, we became very much part of the troop of chimps, sitting around not far from them, and feeling their glances on us as they casually ambled by. We took great care not to get in the way of some of the ‘naughty boys’ such as Christmas, who is known to charge and scare an unsuspecting tourist every now and then.

An hour or so later we were all quite ready to take off our facemasks and to return to camp for some tea. Just like the previous day, the total duration of the excursion was just over 3 hours.

Here are a few pointers which might be useful for future Mahale chimp trekkers:


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Bert’s Mahale Mountains Chimp Trekking Hints

* It is definitely a good thing to be fit and relatively agile as there is some scrambling (up and down) and rock-stepping to be done.

* In the warmer months dress appropriately (long trousers to protect legs and lightweight long or short-sleeved shirts with good ventilation/absorption). There were no tsetse flies or other biting flies present within the forest interior.

* Good boots with grippy soles are 100% necessary. You could be in for a tough time with the wrong shoes. No flip-flops!

* Light is an issue in the forest interior so to get decent pics of the chimps, bring a fast (f2.8) lens in the 70-200 mm range, and preferably a camera that can produce acceptable images at a high ISO setting. Long telephoto lenses are not essential – you will get closer to the chimps than you might anticipate.

* Drink plenty of water before the start of the trek and also during. Dehydration is a major concern during the warmer months and it can sneak up on you with very little warning.

* Definitely go on more than just one chimp trek as they are all quite different & the chimp behaviour and interaction vary greatly day to day. If you’ve seen one you certainly haven’t seen them all.


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In our blog post next Friday we will be taking a closer look at the big cats of Mashatu Game Reserve in south-eastern Botswana.  This little-known area is nowadays one of the most reliable big cat destinations in Southern Africa with lions, leopards and cheetahs seen by most visitors who spend three or four nights in the area.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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In Search of Leopards

29th October 2020

In Search of Leopards


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In Search of Leopards

What is the only regret that many African safari travelers go home with?  Not seeing a leopard.  I know of several repeat visitors to Africa who have struck out on leopards more than just once.  Three, four trips even and including some known leopard haunts and – nothing.  Some animals are more equal than others, and among the much celebrated ‘Big Five’ mammals – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffaloes – leopards are clearly a standout.


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Not because they are rare – in fact they are more abundant than any of the African big cats – but because they are naturally evasive, skulking and mostly nocturnal.  Other than in a handful of places across Africa, leopards are rarely observed beyond perhaps a quick glimpse, a flash of spots disappearing into the green.


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When you do get lucky with a leopard sighting, it is always fodder for camp-fire talk, something to casually mention over dinner back in camp.  The reaction being a predictable mix of envy and admiration. Suddenly, you’re the most interesting person in the room. There will be an invitation to provide more details and the conversation will probably meander into reminiscing about old but not forgotten leopard sightings.  Memories of this sleek, beautiful cat – pound for pound the most powerful of any of its kind – barely fade with time.


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Prod any safari aficionado a bit and they will tell you about seeing a leopard practically run up a tree in Samburu in Kenya, the warm body of a good sized impala firmly clamped in its jaws.  Or the time they saw a leopard stalk and kill a careless blackbacked jackal in Etosha National Park in Namibia, in the middle of the day.  There are lots of good leopard stories out there.  And almost just as many places and opportunities to experience this most memorable of animals, and start working on your own stories.  Here are some notes on a few of these special places, with some of our favorite leopard photographs.


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Hunda Island, Okavango Delta Botswana

Hunda Island is a large, well-wooded island in the Jao concession in the western part of the Okavango Delta.  The Jao concession is exactly what one might anticipate the Okavango Delta looking like, even before you’ve ever been there.  A stunningly beautiful mosaic of small, palm-fringed islands, meandering channels and pretty lagoons with sizable stands of reeds and papyrus.  When the annual flood is in, large expanses of the Jao floodplain become inundated, creating a water wonderland like no other. Hunda Island is a few feet higher than the surrounding plains, so it stays dry year round.  There is no lack of trees though and plenty of game including impalas, baboons, hares, warthogs and rodents.  Leopard food, all. Some of the leopards to be seen on Hunda Island are quite relaxed – as the guides will say – being habituated to the presence of vehicles.  Which means they can see and smell you – but they don’t care.


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More than once, I’ve seen a leopard in a tree on Hunda Island.  Which is a photographer’s potential dream shot – and also his or her biggest challenge.  The issue being the dreaded ‘bright sky’ background which messes up the exposure, resulting in either an underexposed (dark) leopard or a totally blown out, overly bright sky background.  On the day that I managed to get this shot of a leopard in a tree on Hunda Island, this very same animal had been in another tree just minutes earlier, with ‘just sky’ in the background.  With zero chance of getting a nicely balanced exposure.  I was beyond myself.  Only to have the leopard calmly clamber down that tree, and into another one, with – halleluja – green foliage in the background.  Leopard in a tree shot?  Check.  My advice is to be patient and to stick around.  Things change, and often for the better.  If you’re really keen on getting some great leopard shots, spend more time on Hunda Island (like four nights instead of three) and stay at Tubu or Little Tubu camp.  They are right on Hunda Island and you won’t be wasting time getting there.


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MalaMala Game Reserve, Sabi Sand Reserve, South Africa

I always think of MalaMala as a place where leopards can be seen strolling down a track at 11 in the morning.  It is that kind of a place.  The consistency with which leopards are seen at MalaMala is simply astonishing.  Practically not a day goes by without a leopard sighting, week in and week out.  There were a total of 1,216 sightings in 2019,  an average of 3.3 sightings per day.  Leopard sightings are measured on a per day basis, so if the Island Female is seen on the morning drive and again in the afternoon, that is counted as one sighting. The record high number for different leopards being seen at MalaMala on one day is no less than fifteen.  So if you absolutely, positively ‘have’ to see some leopards on your next or first Africa trip, MalaMala needs to be on your itinerary. You can thank me later.


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If you’ve been there recently or are planning a trip, names like the Piccadilly Female, the aforementioned Island Female, the Nkoveni Female, the Split Rock Male or the Maxim’s Male may either be familiar to you, or soon will be.   The most widely accepted method of leopard identification is by using spot patterns.  A spot pattern refers to the uppermost row of spots on the leopard’s cheeks, above the upper line of whiskers. Probably best to get a good close-up shot of the leopard first, and check the spots later…


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This photo of a young male leopard was taken on our most recent trip to MalaMala in June last year.  What made it special was that we spent nearly an hour observing him walking around, patrolling the area and checking for the scent or signs of any intruders into his territory.  He was completely relaxed and did not so much as look at the vehicle, despite walking right by it on a couple of occasions.  Eventually, he selected one of his favorite spots on a flat rock and stretched out.  We were one of only two vehicles to enjoy this sighting, the first vehicle leaving the scene within minutes of us arriving.


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Mashatu, south-eastern Botswana

Likely the most underrated of any Southern African wildlife sanctuary, Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve delivers big cat sighting after big cat sighting to match any other wildlife area in Africa.  With no exceptions.  Lions, cheetahs, leopards.  All three can currently be seen there consistently.  On a recent September trip, we enjoyed two different cheetah sightings and three different leopard sightings in the course of a relatively short stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  Unlike the true ‘bushveld’ regions of Southern Africa, Mashatu is relatively arid with less in the way of impenetrable thickets and dense riverine bush.  While there’s plenty of cover for leopards in the way of mopane scrub, woodland, craggy terrain and rocky outcrops, visibility is generally quite good and I’ve had more unobstructed views of leopards and other cats here, than practically anywhere else.  Except perhaps for the Serengeti/Mara complex in East Africa.


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This photo of a leopard at Mashatu was the culmination of a guiding clinic, of sorts.  Initially, our guide – and tracker – had spotted some fresh leopard tracks in one of the dry ephemeral rivers in the reserve.  Following the tracks down into a gully, we had every expectation of bumping into the leopard. Soon.  It was nowhere to be seen.  The tracks had petered out in a gravelly patch.  We circled around a bit and just when I had pretty much given up on the sighting, the guides heard the alarm call of a helmeted guineafowl.  Looping around a few bushes, we approached the loudly protesting bird which was practically pointing at a nearby bush.  If a bird could point.  Sure enough, not seconds later, a leopard emerged from the bush. It gave us the barest of glances and calmly crossed the dry riverbed, prompting a torrent of machine gun-like shutter clicks from my Nikon D4 at nine frames per second.  Success!


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Mombo Camp, Chief’s Island Botswana

Wilderness Safaris’ Mombo Camp has gained a worldwide reputation and recognition for all-round excellence.  Hospitality, guiding, game-viewing, atmosphere, food – there are no shortcomings. On first arriving at the Mombo airstrip many years ago, we were given the choice of proceeding to a cheetah kill or a Martial Eagle which had just taken down an impala. Of course we did both, and they were both phenomenal.  The photos, much to my regret, were lost in a subsequent hard drive failure.  I know.  Back up on the cloud…  The following day we experienced the first of many leopard sightings at Mombo, a streak which remains unbroken over the course of several return visits.  As recently as March 2020 we were on a fantastic sighting of a female leopard in a tree – with her cub – within fifteen minutes on our first game drive.  So Mombo.


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One of the most legendary of Mombo leopards was Legadima, which Kathy and I were fortunate to see more than once.  She was truly a ‘movie star’ leopard, featured in Dereck and Beverly Joubert’s ‘Eye of the Leopard’.  It followed every step of her life, as the cub of Tortilis, from just eight days to three years old.  Two of Legadima’s cubs namely Pula and Maru then became Mombo favorites, as did Phefu, the daughter of Maru.  Currently a young male leopard named Tladi – the son of Phefu – is being seen all around Mombo, walking on the boardwalk and clambering onto the roofs of the guest tents.  At just 14 months Tladi successfully hunted a full-grown kudu – quite an achievement for such a young predator.  The Legadima legacy lives on.


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Kaingo Camp, South Luangwa Zambia

Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is known as good leopard habitat, and there’s no reason not to anticipate seeing one or more at practically any of the camps in the reserve, over the course of 3 days or so.  Some South Luangwa camps do have an edge though, as does Shenton Safaris’ Kaingo Camp.  It definitely belongs in the top echelon of safari properties where you are likely to see and properly photograph a leopard.  On our first visit to the camp we witnessed an extraordinary spectacle one evening when we were out on a night drive, checking for predator action in some open floodplain terrain, along the South Luangwa River.


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It wasn’t long before we had the spotlight on a big male leopard walking into the arena, as it were, checking around for what might be available for dinner.  And then, just minutes later, from stage left, a female lion dashed into the picture, going straight for the leopard.  To her instant regret, our guide had inadvertently lit up one predator for another. She later told us that she would have felt awful if the lion had been successful in getting to the leopard.  In the end the leopard made a successful getaway, scampering to the safety of some nearby trees.


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Another interesting phenomenon which we first observed at Kaingo involved hyenas and leopards.  In this part of Zambia – and likely elsewhere – hyenas often follow leopards around at night, instinctively realizing that they may benefit if and when the leopard makes a kill.  Either by appropriating the carcass for themselves – which we have witnessed on Hunda Island – or by scavenging for leftovers.  So on every subsequent night drive, whenever we would see or hear hyenas, we’d be thinking and looking around for leopards.  More often than not, that is how it turned out.


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Kaingo is exceptionally well attuned to the needs of serious photographers, from the way the vehicles are equipped to the abundance of photographic hides, the kind of advice you get and the ability of the guides to anticipate behavior and movement and get you in the right position for a pro shot, time after time.


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Kirkmans Kamp, Sabi Sand Reserve

AndBeyond’s Kirkmans Kamp and its younger, deluxe sibling Tengile, are leopard mainstays.  On three different visits here the professional guides at both camps have found leopards for us every time without fail.  And not just your common, garden variety of leopard sightings.  We’re talking leopards in trees, leopards just a few hundred meters from lions, and most recently a ‘leopard alert’ where I was cautioned to stay in my room early one morning, waiting for a leopard to walk out of camp.  We’re talking adrenaline-pumping, action-packed sightings which add 200 shots to your photo count in a hurry.


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Despite some back-lighting issues, I managed to get a couple of decent exposures of the leopard that had walked into and then out of the camp, a little while later.  It had climbed into a tree to survey the area.  For whatever reason it was not happy about having the vehicle to the side of the tree, and snarled at us a couple of times.  Uncharacteristic behavior for a leopard, in my experience.  

In our blog post next Friday we will take a look at the where, why and when of chimpanzee trekking in Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa

14th October 2020

Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa


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Seeing and photographing Giraffes on safari in Africa

As long-time safari planners and regular African travelers, giraffes are often on our minds, or in front of our camera lenses.  Other than perhaps elephants, it is the one mammal that we get the  most questions about.  Everybody wants to see giraffes on safari.   Just like the big cats, these quintessential African mammals are high on everyone’s must see list. It is easy to see why.  They are simply spectacular in so many ways.  There’s the sheer size of them, their stilt-like elongated necks and unmistakable ‘horned’ heads literally towering above the landscape and everything else.  There’s the way they feed, drink, stare at you and run.  Pretty much everything about a giraffe is weird and worth a second look.


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Linyanti floodplain, Botswana

This photo, taken in the Linyanti area in Northern Botswana, illustrates a couple of things about giraffes and about getting useful images of them.  Be ready with the right lens.  If all you have available is a big telephoto lens, this is all you might get.  A portion of a giraffe.  Legs.  Or a head, maybe a neck and head.  So either shoot them at a good distance where they can fill the frame or use a shorter zoom lens to frame them properly.  On this day I was fortunate to have a yellow-billed oxpecker bail me out of the tight photo spot.  These birds have a symbiotic relationship with giraffes, helping them to get rid of disease-carrying ticks, food for the birds.  Even ill-equipped photographers can be the beneficiaries of symbiosis, with a bit of luck. 


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Kwara concession, Okavango Delta

When it is not possible to get the entire giraffe – or more than one – inside the frame, consider grouping together a few giraffe necks, heads or upper bodies.  Sometimes, you can get lucky and three giraffes will be facing in the same direction, with a nice cloudy background.  It doesn’t happen all the time but keep looking for such an opportunity to present itself.  Some years ago in the Kwara concession in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, I did just that, got lucky and succeeded in getting a visually pleasing shot of these three giraffes.


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Kwandwe Game Reserve, Eastern Cape

I captured this photograph of three plains giraffes feeding at Kwandwe in the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa.  It is another example of framing more than one giraffe in the same photograph, by isolating their necks and heads.  The more giraffes, the better.  Four necks may even be better than three; I’ve just not come across a suitable opportunity to try that!


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Samburu region, Kenya

There are several species of giraffe in Africa.  The three photos above have been of the most common of these, the Southern giraffe.  In north-eastern Kenya one finds what I consider to be the most handsome of the giraffe species, the Reticulated giraffe.  This photo of a few of them was taken in Samburu, a mostly stark, arid area where a good number of these endangered animals co-exist with a couple of other northern Kenyan endemics such as Grevy’s zebra and Beisa oryx. I’ve always described the Reticulated giraffe as the oil painting of giraffes, compared with the more washed out – ‘watercolor’ – Southern giraffe.  If you’ve seen Reticulated giraffes in nature, I think you will agree.  Their spots are a vivid, dark burnt orange which make the white stripes stand out even more.  Another good place to find and observe Reticulated giraffes is the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. 


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Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya

Taken in the Lewa Conservancy in northern Kenya, this photo of three Reticulated giraffes also illustrates their striking color pattern.  And my penchant for trying to get  several giraffe necks and heads in the same photo…


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Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

There is considerable disagreement among scientists as to the specific number of giraffe species.  Some maintain that there’s only one ‘giraffe’ with several subspecies.  Others contend that there are as many as eight distinct species.  A giraffe that is widely considered to be a subspecies is the Rothschild’s or Nubian giraffe.  I photographed this one walking in a yellow-barked acacia forest on the edge of Lake Nakuru in Kenya.  Full species or not, it is certainly a handsome beast with its characteristic white ‘sox’.


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Giraffe Center, Nairobi

There are several Rothschild’s giraffes at the popular Giraffe Center in Nairobi, Kenya.  The Giraffe Center is operated by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, to educate Kenyan youth about the country’s wildlife and environment and to provide visitors an opportunity to come into close contact with the giraffes. ‘Armed’ with a handful of giraffe pellets, visitors walk up a ramp to a balcony from where they can feed the giraffes at eye-level.  The giraffes know the game.  Whenever there are visitors, there are giraffes ready to stick out their crazy long tongues to retrieve a treat and be photographed.  All for a good cause.  Funds raised by the Giraffe Center have helped with efforts to re-establish the endangered Rothschild giraffe in several wilderness areas elsewhere in Kenya.


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Royal Malewane, Thornybush Reserve – South Africa

A giraffe drinking is quite a sight to behold.  This photo which I took on a game drive from Royal Malewane in South Africa illustrates the peculiar posture which a giraffe has to adopt in order to get its mouth down low enough to drink water from a pond or river.  The exact mechanism by which a giraffe gets enough water in its mouth and up its massively long neck, isn’t entirely clear. What is clear is that  giraffes are vulnerable to predation when they are drinking and they are always careful to look around for lions, before assuming the position.


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Skeleton Coast area, Namibia

A little known fact about giraffes is just how adaptable they are. As a result giraffes are widely distributed in most habitats throughout Africa, even in some areas which are inhospitable to many life-forms. On two separate visits to Namibia’s Skeleton Coast we saw several groups of desert-adapted Angolan giraffe, a sub-species concentrated around ephemeral or seasonal rivers such as the Hoarusib, Huab and Hoanib.  Wherever you see groves of acacia albida (Ana) and acacia erioloba (Camelthorn) trees, you can expect to find these giraffes.  This photo was taken on a game drive out of Wilderness Safaris’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.


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Okavango Delta, Botswana

Baby giraffes are cute.  Like most other animals.  These two youngsters were photographed on a game drive out of Wilderness Safaris’ Abu Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.  Even at a young age, giraffes adopt the typical habits of the species like being inquisitive and observant.  They can see you long before you can see them, and they fully utilize their special advantage,  always looking and staring.  When safari guides are out on game drives searching for predators, they make a point of checking out where the giraffes are looking.  If giraffes are standing still and staring consistently in the same direction, it is always a good indication that a predator is around.


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Samburu, Kenya

Giraffes are relatively common in many areas in Africa.  We always expect to see some – and sometimes many – in places like Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, pretty much all over northern Botswana, the north-eastern lowveld of South Africa including all but the far northern part of Kruger Park, and in most East African parks and game reserves.  While it is still fairly easy to see giraffes on a trip to Africa, it is a disturbing reality that giraffe numbers have decreased by 30% over the last three decades, with about  110,000 remaining.  Even though giraffes as a species are not endangered, they are considered threatened and the situation could get worse, if current trends persist.  Mostly, their numbers are dropping because of habitat loss, which happens when woodlands are converted into farms and ranches. Trophy hunting and poaching also play a role in their steady demise.  Some of the species – or subspecies – such as the Reticulated Giraffe are in fact endangered, with their numbers down more than 90% compared with earlier times.  These Reticulated giraffes photographed in Samburu in northern Kenya are nowadays found mostly in a few wildlife sanctuaries, with less than 10,000 of them surviving.

In our blog post next week, we will take a look at Africa’s signature mammal:  the African elephant.  With plenty of photographs and a few of our most indelible memories of interacting with these behemoths in all parts of Africa over the years.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

9th October 2020

Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs


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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

For many visitors to Africa, seeing the big cats is #1 on their wish list.  Nobody wants to go home only to have to say ‘no’ to the inevitable question about having seen lions.  Even though the total number of lions in Africa have dropped alarmingly over the last few decades – largely due to habitat loss – they are still relatively easily seen in most wilderness areas.  Lions are also prolific breeders under the right conditions – with enough prey animals around – so they bounce back quickly and predictably after setbacks such as prolonged droughts.  Which means that on your next – or first – trip to Africa, you will almost definitely bump into lions if you spend a few days in practically any major game reserve or national park.  In Southern or East Africa.  So, did you see lions?  Yes.


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Other big cats are less frequently seen.  Leopards are supremely adaptable creatures and they are common in almost any non-urban African habitat except true deserts.  What makes them difficult to find and observe is their naturally elusive, shy and mostly nocturnal nature.  They are mostly solitary and stealthy creatures of the night. That is when they are out and about in search of prey such as unsuspecting smaller antelope, monkeys, baboons and the like.  Consequently, visitors see them mostly very early in the mornings or in the late afternoon, when they start to get active after resting up.  In areas where they are habituated to the presence of vehicles, such as the Sabi Sand reserve in South Africa, in parts of the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, in private concessions in Northern Botswana and at Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, they are more readily seen as they don’t conceal themselves at the first sign of vehicles, movement or humans.  


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The other big African cat – the cheetah – is in a different league altogether.  It has a relatively tiny total population of about 7,000 in comparison with lions (approximately 25,000) and leopards (approximately 700,000).  Despite being as sparsely distributed as they are, cheetahs are quite visible where present, due to their diurnal nature and preferred habitat.  Cheetahs are adapted to hunt during the day which reduces competition from the nocturnal big cats, notably lions.  Cheetahs also prefer open terrain where they can use their amazing speed to its best advantage.  And they will often clamber onto anthills or stumps or other elevated spots to check out the area for potential prey – or danger.  Open terrain, broad daylight, a spotted cat perched on top of an anthill?  Bingo!  For me personally, a cheetah sighting is a highlight of any Africa trip.  They are just so rare, so beautiful and so special that even a brief glimpse of one of them will make your day.  

Here are some photos we took of cheetahs in six different areas in Southern and East Africa where they are regularly seen.  The captions summarize the back story about each photo and how it came to be.


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Selinda, Northern Botswana

This cheetah was part of a coalition of two brothers which used to move up and down along the Linyanti River in northern Botswana, spending weeks or sometimes months in an area.  For no apparent reason, they would then move along to a neighboring concession.  Less competition from lions or hyenas, more prey animals?  Who knows.  The reasons are hardly ever readily apparent.  The day on which we bumped into this particular cheetah and his brother, marked the first sighting of cheetahs on a game drive from Selinda, in several weeks.  So essentially, we got lucky. Being in the right habitat and spending enough time scanning open terrain along the Linyanti floodplain, just improved our luck somewhat.  We would get even luckier later that day, when we saw the cheetah coalition hunt and bring down an impala.  My advice to anyone wanting to see a cheetah kill?  Bring your best patience game as cheetahs take their time sizing up the area, the conditions and whatever their instinct dictates.  It took the brothers the better part of four hours to finally attempt a charge.  They were successful though.  Cheetahs are the most efficient of the big cats in terms of hunting success, bringing down about 40% to 50% of prey, as a percentage of total attempts.  By comparison leopards are successful about 30% to 40% of the time.  Lions bring up the rear in a significant way, being successful less than 20% of the time.  


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Tswalu, South Africa

Tswalu in the northern Cape Kalahari in South Africa is better known as one of the best places in Africa to see pangolins and aardvarks, but it is no slouch for some of the big cats, notably lions and cheetahs.  On our most recent visit to Tswalu (we will be returning this November) Kathy had set aside one afternoon to do some horseback riding.  We were at the stables and she was just about to set off into the veld with one of Tswalu’s beautiful steeds, when word came on the radio that a couple of cheetahs had been spotted.  Kathy and I looked at each other and there was no disagreement:  the horses would have to wait for another day.  It was a longish drive to get to the cheetahs, with the light fading fast by the time we pulled up to them.  Even so, the decision was the right one.  Looking in our direction in the gathering gloom, the cheetah’s ordinarily yellow eyes shone almost red.  The sighting would be brief but eminently memorable. 


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Masai Mara, Kenya

When I first saw these cheetahs on a game drive out of Mara Explorer Camp, one of the cheetahs had jumped on top of a game drive vehicle from Mara Intrepids.  I do not like to see behavior like that: it should have been prevented by the Mara Intrepids driver-guide.  The guides in the area are all aware of the propensity of some of the cheetahs to try to use the vehicle as an observation post.  And the guides know to avoid an incident, by staying clear of ‘known perpetrators’.  It is potentially dangerous for the guests and for the cheetahs.  Getting bitten or getting run over, respectively.  Too risky all round.  We left the scene, deciding to rather return early the next morning.  It made all the difference.  We had the cheetahs to ourselves for the better part of an hour, observing them walking around and getting onto anthills – not vehicles.  The way it should be.  


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Serengeti Plains, Tanzania

Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and its northernmost extension, the Masai Mara in Kenya, are likely Africa’s single best repository of cheetahs.  This is their habitat par excellence.  Open, rolling grassy plains with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and riverine thickets, and plenty of prey in the form of Thomson’s gazelles and impala.  Irrespective of the status of the annual wildebeest migration, the Serengeti and the Mara are great for the big cats, who have territories to defend and who do not move around with the wildebeest and the zebras.  In fact, on the day we saw this cheetah on a game drive out of Nomad Tanzania’s Lamai Serengeti Camp, we experienced a rare big cat trifecta:  lions, leopards and a cheetah.  All in one game drive, not during the migration season.  Other parts of the Serengeti where we have experienced above-average cheetah sightings include the southern Serengeti (Kusini camp) and the western Seronera area (Namiri Plains camp). 


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Hwange, Zimbabwe

Since we regularly started visiting Hwange National Park in north-western Zimbabwe in the 1990’s, we’ve come to recognize it as a good and reliable area for cheetah sightings.  Just like elsewhere in Africa, the Hwange cheetahs move around and can’t always be seen in the same spots.  So if you’re keen on seeing cheetahs on a trip to Zimbabwe, we would suggest including two different camps, such as Somalisa or The Hide or Khulu Bush Camp, combined with Little Makalolo or Linkwasha or Camelthorn.  And give yourself plenty of time to find the cheetahs; five to six nights in the area would be ideal.  This trio of young cheetahs were following their mother around and getting a lesson in patience.  She wanted them to stay back and stay low while she approached some antelope.  It was not to be.  They kept showing themselves and following too closely behind her.  Which naturally spooked the antelope. All in a day of growing up.  


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Mashatu, Botswana

Mashatu Game Reserve in far south-eastern Botswana is currently one of the best big cat destinations in Southern Africa.   Spend three or better yet four nights there and you will most likely get to see lions, leopards and cheetahs.  And not furtive ‘drive-by’ sightings either.  On a recent September visit to the area, we had multiple good sightings of both lions and leopards, and notched up two different cheetah sightings in the course of a 3-night stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  What makes Mashatu a particularly good bet for cheetahs – and other big cats – is the fact that off-road driving is allowed which means that you can get quite close to these magnificent cats.  For photographers this is a major advantage over many other areas where vehicles are not permitted off-road.  Also, compared with most other good big-cat destinations, the Mashatu properties namely Mashatu Lodge, Mashatu Tented Camp and Euphorbia are moderately priced – at about half the cost of camps of similar quality in northern Botswana.  We recommend combining a 3-night WalkMashatu foot safari with a few days at one of the Mashatu camps, to make the most of the area.  


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on one of the most popular and also instantly recognizable African mammals, the Giraffe.  There will be photographs, of course, as well as some information about places where they can be seen.  We will also review the various species you are likely to encounter in Southern and East Africa, and their conservation status.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
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