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Greater Kruger Park Area 2020 Part 1 MARCH 2020

14th May 2020

Greater Kruger Park Area 2020
Part 1 MARCH 2020


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Greater Kruger Park Area 2020
Part 1

MARCH 2020

Over the span of ten days last March, Kathy and I visited six different properties in South Africa’s lowveld area adjacent to and inside the southern and central Kruger National Park.  Mostly in the Sabi Sand Reserve but also in Kapama, a private game reserve further west, and in Thornybush, a private game reserve adjacent to Kapama and bordering on the Timbavati region.

The Sabi Sand Game Reserve had received an abundance of rain in the preceding couple of months, and as a result game-viewing was challenging due to the tall grass and thick bush which limited visibility significantly.  Compared with the dry season, general game seemed to be dispersed and not readily seen.


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The Sabi Sand being what it is, even under suboptimal conditions, the game-viewing was good to excellent.  We were fortunate to experience close-up and extended views – with almost no other vehicles present – of all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals (lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos) as well as African Painted dogs (at three of the six properties), once on a hunt, and a pangolin. And a wide variety of plains game including giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, impala, kudu, warthogs and others.  The birdlife was impressive, with many of the summer migrants such as the Woodland Kingfishers and various shrikes, bee-eaters and orioles still present.

Here are my impressions and highlights of the areas and camps we visited:


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MALAMALA, SABI SANDS

Predictably, the game viewing at MalaMala was consistently good, just like it always is.  Over the course of a few game drives, we saw the Big Five mammals and plenty of plains game.  Highlights were a sighting of a leucistic (‘white’) buffalo calf and some quality time spent with a young male leopard on a walkabout.  The leopard eventually settled down on a huge boulder and gave us quite a show; most importantly we had the leopard all to ourselves for what must have been 30 minutes plus.  We were thrilled to see white rhino up close and personal and not just one rhino sighting but three!


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The guiding, accommodation, food and all-round hospitality were top-notch.  The recent refurbishment of the rooms and general areas at MalaMala Camp and Sable Camp succeeded admirably in refreshing and updating the look and feel of MalaMala.  It brought in more light and some brighter colors with a bit of pop. The private decks are larger and just perfect for lounging while game viewing and star gazing.  All bolstering MalaMala’s long-cherished ‘authentic African safari’ feel and character.  This is still THE place to experience absolutely the best game-viewing in the Sabi Sands, bar none.


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CHEETAH PLAINS, SABI SANDS

We were totally bowled over by the experience at Cheetah Plains in the northern part of the Sabi Sand.  The three houses, each with four private suites,  are simply magnificent in design and execution, and clearly no expense was spared to achieve a peaceful and luxurious retreat which is 100% personalized and where the entire experience can be tailored to your preferences. You literally have the run of the place (and what a place it is!), with complete flexibility in terms of timing, meals & beverages,  activities and overall schedule.


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We enjoyed a few splendid meals at Cheetah Plains and clearly this is a place where wine aficionados would be totally at home, with an enviable collection of South African wines.  Always a good sign when your personal favorite – in our case a Rust en Vrede Estate – is available and in stock.


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Even though our guide had to contend with excessively thick bush he nonetheless got us onto the best lion sighting of the entire trip – the Talamati pride – and also a superb and extended experience with a leopard mother and cub, on our second morning.  Another welcome surprise?  The fact that the game-drive vehicles were battery-operated:  quiet, efficient and environmentally friendly and the entire property is ‘off the grid’.


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TENGILE RIVER LODGE, SABI SANDS

Probably the best overall new lodge we have seen in many years, Tengile is in a class of its own in terms of design, comfort, privacy and sheer enjoyment value.  This is a place where I can see myself spending several days, and maybe skipping a game drive one afternoon simply to enjoy the stunning suites, each with a plunge pool, outside sala area, a lounge/sitting room with a great view, in addition to the beautifully appointed bedroom.

In the usual AndBeyond fashion, the hospitality, meals and game drives as well as the guiding were all first class.  The bar at Tengile is one of the most inviting of its kind, definitely a focal point of the common area.


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The staff at Tengile were very personable – clearly they love their jobs. We enjoyed a lunch (really a feast) in our room the day we arrived which was quite a treat – the food was delicious.  We felt very pampered and spoiled.

The game drives out of Tengile did not disappoint either.  One memorable sighting was of a pack of young African painted dogs possibly waiting for the adults to return from a hunting trip.  They seemed to get bored and created havoc chasing some game around.  One of them finally scored and ended up with a scrub hare.  It was great fun following them.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Greater Kruger Park Area 2020 Part 2 JABULANI

14th May 2020

Greater Kruger Park Area 2020
Part 2 JABULANI


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Greater Kruger Park Area 2020
Part 2

JABULANI

Our long-awaited 3-night stay at Jabulani in the private Kapama Game Reserve lived up to and exceeded every expectation we had.  Together with our dear friends Abe & Rosanna Lambrechts from Cape Town, we experienced a superb all-round safari with excellent game-viewing, fascinating elephant interaction, an exciting and educational visit to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre, and we were served what was unquestionably some of the best food on our trip to that point. Jabulani has four chefs including a pastry chef.

The Jabulani experience started with a bang on the first afternoon, meeting three members of the Jabulani herd namely Jabulani, Sebakwe and Somopane, and having an opportunity to feed them some pellets and in the process get up close and personal with each of them.


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The elephant interaction at Jabulani is limited to this feeding and petting session, but it is quite intense and involved.  We were a group of 8 guests and we spent the better part of an hour alternating between the three elephants with ample opportunities for photography and videos.

We spent three nights at Zindoga Villa (suitable for families or 2 couples traveling together) which was beautifully appointed in a classic safari style with a thatched roof, and soothing interiors with natural mud and straw finish on some of the surfaces.


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The two main suites at the Villa each had its private splash pool, fireplace, tub, indoor and semi-outdoor shower, and a shared dining room and lounge.  A charming twin-bedded suite adjoining one of the main suites is ideal for two children or two adults sharing. From the villa, it is about a 5-minute walk along an immaculately groomed sandy path to the main lodge and dining room, overlooking a small dam. Just before reaching the lodge you cross over a sturdy suspension bridge.  The Zindoga Villa also has a private villa entrance for game drive pick ups and drop offs.

The food at Jabulani was stellar, from the first evening’s 5-course tasting menu to an elaborate bush dinner with sundowner drinks and snacks, with the elephants.  Our farewell dinner with choices such as venison loin and grilled salmon, was another delightful meal served in the cozy wine cellar.


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Most of all though, Jabulani excelled in the quality of the game viewing.  Our capable and effervescent guide Liesa was knowledgeable and fun to be around.  She also displayed a well-developed ability to anticipate and predict animal behavior, putting us in excellent positions to observe predators in action.   Most memorably, this resulted in us witnessing a spell-binding African painted dog hunt.

In addition to the painted dogs, we also spotted several prides of lions, a leopard (briefly), white rhinos and buffaloes, lots of wild elephants and a rare pangolin sighting.  Jabulani appears to be reliably good for seeing all of the Big Five mammals over the course of 3 to 4 days.


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LION SANDS TINGA LODGE

Tinga Lodge and its sister property Narina Lodge are located in a private concession in the southern area of Kruger Park, close to Skukuza Airport and Skukuza Rest Camp.  We found the Tinga rooms and common areas overlooking the Sabi River to be exceptionally attractive and well-managed.  The same was true of nearby Narina Lodge which was similar in concept and style, except that it was raised off the ground level on a boardwalk about 3 meters high.  This resulted in a  view from the front of the common area which was better than the one at Tinga.


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We enjoyed several well-prepared meals at Tinga, with the lunch on arrival being served out on the deck, a perfect spot for it. The game-viewing in the area – which was true of the game-viewing everywhere in the Greater Kruger National Park area – was challenging due to the thick bush.  Heavy summer rains had caused rank, dense vegetation with grasses obscuring pretty much everything  smaller than buffaloes, rhinos and elephants.  This was particularly noticeable in the areas around Tinga, to the point where our guide Joe (who was as good as they come) had to venture onto the public parks road in search of lions and zebras, for example.  We did get lucky with a couple of great sightings including a surprise encounter with a pack of about 6 or 7 African painted dogs.  They popped up in front of a crash of White rhinos which was what we had initially stopped for.  The best sighting overall by far, was of a massive and clearly extremely powerful male leopard which spent several minutes right in front of our vehicles, marking its territory.


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ROYAL MALEWANE FARMSTEAD

Fittingly, our last stop in the Greater Kruger Park area was at the sublime Royal Malewane Farmstead, where camp manager Nick Daneel and his team including Charne Daneel and super guide Rudi Hulshof, introducing us in splendid fashion to this iconic safari brand. I was thrilled to finally find out for myself what it was that has made Royal Malewane such a highly regarded and popular deluxe safari brand.


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Like all great brands, Royal Malewane creates quality by imbuing every aspect and facet of the guest experience with quality.  To start with, the usual new arrival formalities were dealt with as efficiently and briskly as I’ve ever seen it done.  In the room – which was a veritable work of art itself – there was a half bottle size of quality sparkling wine on ice, if one were so inclined. As a couple, we are always reluctant to open an entire 750 ml of sparkling wine (anywhere), knowing that most of it would be wasted.  Not an issue at Royal Malewane.  The mini-bar and snack bar had everything one could possibly want – and more.  The room had ample space, plenty of natural light, and a mix of practical and whimsical design and decorative elements which combined into an esthetically pleasing whole.  The Liz Biden touch was unmistakable.  I liked the fact that the suite was uncluttered, without any nooks and crannies, making the most of the available space. The back doors (French doors also located in the bathroom) opened up to a fabulous deck with an outdoor shower and an inviting splash pool.


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Shortly afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious light tapas lunch and a bit later went out on the first of two outings with our guide Rudi Hulshof, assisted by tracker Lodrick Mkansi. Over the course of 30 years in the safari business we’ve come across many excellent and a few superb guides.  Rudi quickly established himself as being in the latter group.  His pre-drive briefing was confident and comprehensive without being pedantic.  I was particularly pleased with his comments about sundowners, to the effect that people do not come to Africa to drink G & T’s  and that depending on the game-viewing scenario and flow, there may not be time for a drinks stop.  Which is exactly what happened.  We were so engrossed with a young female leopard resting on a horizontal branch and then a heart-stopping walk-by of five sub-adult lions, that a sundowner stop before sunset would have been out of place.


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Rudi’s uncanny anticipation of animal behaviour, his pithy, clear and concise comments about animal behavior,  habitat, trees and plants and any topic we cared to raise, were what we had anticipated from the highly regarded and award-winning Royal Malewane guiding team.  Between them, the team  has over 300 years of African bush experience, including no less than three of only seven living Master Trackers in the world.

On the morning of our departure back to Jo’burg, we took a short game drive from the Farmstead to Royal Malewane where we enjoyed breakfast on the patio overlooking a well visited water hole.  It was great to finally see for ourselves what makes this place so special and famous.  The welcome from camp manager and expert guide Juan Pinto, illustrated how a few well chosen remarks can make a hugely favorable impression.  Juan complimented Kathy on her Swarovski binocs and then insisted on checking out my vintage pair of Zeiss 7 X 45’s.  Juan then offered to clean both pairs of binocs, despite having an imminent staff meeting.  That’s how you gain and retain a stellar reputation.


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The breakfast itself was splendid and attractively plated.  Cappucino for Kathy?  No problem.

Our brief stay ended with a couple of rooms inspections, including the stunning classic Royal villa.  Nothing nouveau or cutting edge here:  just an ultra-spacious, well-lit and beautifully appointed villa with adjoining suites complete with outdoor plunge pool, indoors and outdoors showers and tub, massive king size beds with mosquito netting, and a tastefully decorated shared living and dining room area.

The same can be said of the six  individual suites.  Plenty of space, lots of light, great views from the verandah – all in all a delightful spot to spend a few days in the bush.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Cape Town

7th May 2020

“Only in Africa”:
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Cape Town


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“Only in Africa”:
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Cape Town

The city of Cape Town and the surrounding Cape Peninsula has a long list of places to visit and things to do.  Clearly high on the list of ‘must do’s’ is a trip to the top of Table Mountain, either by Cable Car or for more intrepid visitors, by hiking up one of the ravines.  Second only to that outing, any visitor to Cape Town needs to make time for Kirstenbosch.  It is one of the great botanical gardens of the world, a national treasure, and Capetonians are rightfully proud and also protective of this sprawling expanse of gardens and associated structures, sheltered below the eastern slopes of Table Mountain.


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Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is at first glance an ambitious, awe-inspiring undertaking; a beautifully situated collection of gardens and micro-habitats, fountains, aquifers, herbariums, performances, food service and entertainment options. Step inside and you’ll discover its true appeal, its seemingly never-ending reservoir of small surprises and hidden secrets, some just waiting to be seen and others revealing themselves only occasionally to lucky passersby.


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One day it might be a sighting of a Spotted Eagle Owl (always watch for a clutch of other visitors staring up into a tree), the next time a gorgeous Protea Cynaroides in full bloom, a stand of vibrantly colorful daisies, a group of kids dressed up for a midsummer’s night party, or a profusion of the special Nelson Mandela ‘Gold’ variety of the Strelitzia plants in full bloom.  Kirstenbosch is more than 100 years old but it is always new, always fresh, clean and  family-friendly to boot.


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I first visited Kirstenbosch as a child, and have been back dozens of times, most recently just a few weeks ago.  Kirstenbosch attracts more visitors than any other sight in the Mother City, including Table Mountain and the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.  Even so, there are no long lines here; at worst it takes a few minutes to buy a ticket.  No two to four hour waiting in a line here like at the Table Mountain Cable Car ticket office, in season!


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The Southern Africa spring from late August through November is arguably the very best time of the year to be in Kirstenbosch. This is just after the rainy season when the full spring bloom effect is visible everywhere.  On a recent September visit I remarked to a companion that I had not seen Kirstenbosch in such splendid shape in many years.  There were blazingly colorful displays of red, yellow, purple and orange to be seen all over the place.  The Namaqualand daisies, vygies, pincushions, arum lilies, watsonias and many other species were in full bloom and it was simply magnificent.


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Proteas

If your time is limited, you’d want to take in the protea gardens, the ‘boomslang’ canopy walk and the cycad garden, three of Kirstenbosch’s most celebrated and fascinating elements.  The protea garden takes pride of place due to these hardy, graceful plants being mostly endemic to South Africa, at the pinnacle of the ‘fynbos’ species, a group of plants found mostly in South Africa and very much limited in distribution to the Cape Floral Kingdom.


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All the proteas are worth seeing, but be sure to look for the Protea Cynaroides, South Africa’s national flower, which produces a particularly handsome giant flower.   Fynbos is at its best during winter (June through August) when many species are in flower and the Fynbos walk is alive with color.   If you’re lucky you may see the stunning Protea Sugarbird and one or more species of sunbirds, including the endemic Orangebreasted Sunbird. These beautiful birds can often be seen flitting about the proteas and other flowering plants, year-round.  In addition to the proteas or sugarbushes, you will also see the colorful, delicate pincushions, cone bushes and various protea shrubs.


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Boomslang Canopy Walk

The boomslang canopy walk is a relatively new addition to Kirstenbosch, having been completed in 2014.  The first time I saw it was literally by accident. I was following some guineafowl around – trying to get a better photograph – and stumbled into the base of the canopy walk.  Which of course I had to try right away.  The Boomslang (which is Afrikaans for Tree Snake) is an elevated structure which twists through the tree canopy at a height of up to 40 feet above the ground, with superb views over the gardens and Table Mountain.  It is wheelchair-friendly and the design – with ribbed supporting beams in the style of a snake’s skeletal structure – is quite pleasing to the eye.   This low-impact raised walkway is about 425 feet long, narrow and slender, with a few wider view-point areas.  It lightly snakes its way through the canopy, without being an eyesore or being too intrusive.  It is more than just a traditional boardwalk – like a snake, it winds and dips and stays obscured within the forest.


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Cycad Amphitheater

Kirstenbosch’s cycad amphitheater is one of the oldest parts of the garden, having been established within the first ten years of its existence.  Cycads – also known by their scientific name of Encephalartos  – are palm-like in appearance.  They are often referred to as ‘living fossils’ – not because they are millions of years old, but because they have changed very little since the Jurassic Era, or ‘Age of the Dinosaurs’, 150 – 200 million years ago.


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Lurking behind the giant cycad trees are a collection of life-size tin sculptures of various dinosaur species which roamed the earth at the time when cycads grew in abundance.   The sculptures, which are the work of Zimbabwean artist David Huni, highlight the plight of many cycad species which are critically endangered and may soon, like the dinosaurs, become extinct. Their presence makes for an intriguing and fun adventure for young and old.  Stand there for a minute, let your mind wander and it becomes quite easy to imagine a real Pterodactyl swooshing by with loudly flapping wings.


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The Cycad  Collection at Kirstenbosch  contains 37 of the  approximately 40 Southern African cycad species.  Cycads are mostly rare and endangered in their natural habitats all over Africa.  Unfortunately, they are constantly under threat from unscrupulous collectors.   Kirstenbosch has an active propagation program to increase the number of plants available to gardeners and collectors in order to take the pressure off the few remaining plants in the wild.


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Moyo Restaurant & Summer Concerts

Time permitting,  you can  enjoy lunch at Moyo Restaurant, which is easy to find in the central part of the garden.   On past visits we’ve tried and enjoyed the quasi-traditional fare with innovative versions of old favorites such as bobotie, samoosas, pap (rustic polenta) and boerewors (farmer sausage) rolls.


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During the Cape Town summer months, Kirstenbosch is the venue for regular live sunset concerts on the rolling lawns.  That is when Capetonians gather their picnic baskets, friends, and family, and enjoy some of the best music South Africa has to offer in the shade of Table Mountain.  So, if you happen to find yourself in Cape Town from about November through April, check the local entertainment listings.  The Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts are smoke-free, kid-friendly and great for a family outing.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 2 FROM HOROMBO TO KIBO HUTS

30th April 2020

Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 2
FROM HOROMBO TO KIBO HUTS


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Marangu

Marangu Route, Kilimanjaro – Part 1

On what was my third Kilimanjaro climb, having summited via the Machame and Rongai Routes previously, I took the first steps up the Marangu Route – sometimes referred to as the ‘Coca-Cola’ Route – in mid-February 2021. 

While the Marangu Route is often given short shrift as being the shortest,  ‘easiest’ Kilimanjaro route, and the least scenic one, it is no less challenging than the other routes where and when it matters, which is on summit day.


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Like the Rongai route, the path to the summit on Marangu goes via Gilman’s Point and then Stella Point.  At the stage of the climb where you have used up just about  all your energy  – to reach Gilman’s Point – you have  essentially two more hours ahead of you, your lungs laboring mightily at an altitude of nearly 19,000 feet above sea level, before reaching Uhuru Point.  And then you have to turn around and retrace your steps, every one of them, all the way down to about 12,000 feet.  

But I’m getting ahead of myself.


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The hours leading up to the start of the climb take on somewhat of an air of familiarity by climb #3.  It starts with an overnight stay at Zara Tours’ rather mediocre hotel in Moshi (the food was a lot better this year!) where we assembled for an equipment check and pre-climb briefing conducted by our head guide, Joseph Majuto.  Just like the year before when he guided us on the Rongai Route, Joseph was energetic, super helpful and ever vigilant of my comfort, health and safety.


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The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we piled into a minibus and headed to a downtown supermarket to pick up some cold water and a couple of last minute items.  In my case suntan lotion and a couple of candy bars.  One year ago, in February 2020, the hotel was full with small groups of excited hikers coming and going constantly.  This time, there were just three tourists spending the night there:  myself and a German couple who were going to trek the Machame Route.


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Gone was the air of excitement, the chatter, camaraderie and laughter.  Replaced by a sense of resignation, and some hope, these many months into the coronavirus crisis.  It was no different at the Marangu Gate.  I was one of only three persons to check in for the Marangu climb on the day.  There were about 10 people doing day-trips to Mandara Camp and back, to be out of the gate by 6:30 pm.


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Thu 18 Feb: Mandara Gate to Mandara Huts

The first day’s hike is an easy walk of 8 km (5 miles), all the way within a perfectly awesome rainforest, eventually alongside a burbling mountain stream.  Forest birds were – as usual – in short supply, but I did hear some Turacos calling; likely Hartlaub’s.    It wasn’t until we reached the pretty Mandara Huts campsite that we saw any notable wildlife, being some habituated Sykes’ Monkeys.  We did encounter a shy Dik-dik antelope in the forest as well.

Even though we covered only 5 miles the total duration of the hike was nearly 5 hours, with a stopover for a boxed lunch and a couple of other rest stops thrown in.


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You can’t reach the summit on Day 1, but you can significantly improve your chances of reaching it, by taking it easy, early on.  There’s no deadline, no cut-off time to be at any specific point, and there’s no special medal for a speedy summit.  Start too fast and you will almost certainly struggle later on.  Yes the pace may sometimes feel glacially slow, but don’t let it bother you.  Take a look at the persons rushing up the mountain.  You may see them again later, heading down well before summiting – after running out of gas.


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As a solo climber I had the luxury of having an entire 4-bedded hut at Mandara Huts to myself, which made getting settled in, a lot less onerous than within the tight confines of a tent.  The room has a light (not that great but better than none), ample gear storage space, 4 bunk beds with foam mattresses and cushions, and a good sized table with three chairs.

At the start of the day, I had taken 250mg Diamox which resulted in a rather persistent and pronounced diuretic effect.  In the evening I reverted back to the ‘standard’ guideline which is to take just 125mg, twice a day.  Until early on the summit night, when I popped another 250mg.  Diamox (acetazolamide) being a prescription drug which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.

Legendary Lodge


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At the end of Day 1,  I was feeling good, with no major aches or pains.  The only area of concern was a hotspot on the sole of my left foot, in a calloused area just behind the big toe.  Keeping your feet healthy and in good condition is paramount on a long (45 mile) hike like this one.  So I immediately sterilized the area and used a gel plaster to cover the hotspot, to prevent a blister from forming.  It worked.  I replaced the gel plaster a couple of times further along the hike and there was no further damage.


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Marangu

Three common Kilimanjaro climb pitfalls to avoid

What are the three most common mistakes made in the planning and execution of a Kili climb?

#1:  Not adding an additional acclimating day and opting for the minimum # of days on a climb.

Unless you are a super-conditioned athlete – and even then – attempting the Machame Route in just six days or the Marangu Route in just five, is looking for trouble.  Spending an additional day on the mountain at altitude makes a huge difference in the chance for a successful summit.  So spend a bit more time in Tanzania and pay the extra money for one more day: it will be worth your while.  This is even more important on the shorter routes like Marangu and Umbwe, both of which can theoretically be done in 5 days.  Definitely add an extra night on these climbs; even then your body is going to have a tough time to adjust due to the short, rapid ascent.


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#2:  Flying into Kilimanjaro the night before starting your Kili climb. 

This is not a good idea, particularly if you live in a city close to sea level and you have to take one or more long flights crossing as many as 9 or 10 time zones to get to Tanzania.   Departing from sea level, spending 30-plus hours on the journey, only getting to Tanzania the night before – and then setting out on the climb the very next day – is decidedly risky.  Like asking your body to go from zero to 60 mph overnight.

Villa Maua


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On the other hand, spending 3 nights or so in Tanzania at around 1,500 meters above sea level, such as in the Arusha or Moshe area, can make a decisive difference for the better.  You’ve already made a significant investment in time and money to get this far, so don’t risk it by starting up the mountain too soon.  Spending a few nights at a lodge such as Ngare Sero, on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru just outside Arusha, will be hugely beneficial.  There’s plenty of activities to keep you busy, including hiking on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru.  Get over the jetlag, rest up a bit and give your body a chance to acclimate to the mile-high altitude before you pile on more altitude over the next few days.  If you’re keen, we can even arrange a 3-day hike of Mt. Meru which would be the ideal fine-tuning of your Kilimanjaro preparation.


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#3.  Starting off at too fast a pace

You’ve done the training, you’re feeling fit and you want to get to the top.  Fast.  So off you go, charging up the mountain, right out of the gate.  Big mistake.  Kili is not a race and there is no special certificate for beating the pack.  It takes 6 or 7 days or even more, and the real test only starts around midnight on summit day.  That is when a Kili climb goes from relatively easy to sometimes super difficult, depending on the conditions.  Not conserving your energy earlier on will cost you dearly then.  Always mind your guide’s entreaties to go slowly.  Pole pole.  

Of course, several other factors come into play, including good physical preparation, proper equipment, picking the best time of the year for your climb, and having a competent head guide in charge.


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Friday 19 February:  Mandara to Horombo Huts

From Mandara Huts, it is a long, steady, uphill hike to Horombo Huts, where we would spend the next two nights.  Along the way, the habitat changes from rainforest to open macchia scrub. Ordinarily, both sides of the trail would be covered by fairly dense stands of protea bushes.  Not this time.  Almost as soon as we emerged from the rainforest, we started to see the devastation caused by the recent (Oct. 2020) fire which destroyed some 28 square kilometers of mostly grass and shrub-covered areas on the southern slopes of the mountain.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Signs of regeneration are very much evident with fresh shoots of proteas visible everywhere.  It will take several years for the area to regain its previous splendor though.  

From Horombo, we did a 3-hour hike up to the Zebra Rocks for some additional altitude acclimatization.  The afternoon – as the travel brochures used to state – was ‘at leisure’.  Time to catch up on some notes, send a few emails and texts (struggling with a spotty and intermittent cell phone signal) and simply resting up for the next couple of days which would be the toughest part of the climb.


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Our blog post next week will take us all the way to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro and down again, with heavy snow on summit day creating tough hiking conditions.  On the way down – at Stella Point –  we crossed paths with a world-famous kayaker – Aleksander Doba – on his way up to the summit.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

30th April 2020

“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro


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“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

Having successfully reached the summit of Kilimanjaro twice in three years, most recently along the Rongai Route in Feb 2020, while training mostly at close to sea level, here’s Fish Eagle Safaris founder Bert Duplessis’ tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb:


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#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.


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Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.


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#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.


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#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.


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#4: Eat and drink regularly.

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.


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Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.


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#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.


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#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.


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In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

i)   Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly.

ii)   Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.

iii)   Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.

iv)   Barbell front squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!

v)   Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.

vi)   Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Stand with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance.


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Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells.

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: Tiger Fishing

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“Only in Africa”:
Tiger Fishing

“Only in Africa”:
Tiger Fishing

I believe the core activity on any great safari is the game drive.  The animals are, of course, the main attraction and there is no better method of viewing them over the course of a trip.  This should be the activity of choice for the majority of days in the bush.  There are a few alternatives that can add to your trip if used in moderation.  Walking, boat outings, and fishing immediately come to mind.  Of these alternatives it is hard to beat a good fishing trip.  Strictly catch and release of course.


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Anticipation

For me there is nothing quite like waking up early in the morning knowing that I have a fishing trip coming up and thinking about what kind of fish I am going to catch that day.  Although some days I don’t catch a single thing.  But let’s not dwell on that, the morning before a fishing trip is an optimistic time.  Tiger fishing on the Zambezi brings a special kind of anticipation because the quarry is so out of the norm. 


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They are truly a beautiful fish, large, powerful, striking, especially with those cartoonish giant teeth.  It is hard (if not impossible) to come up with a North American equivalent.  Not an easy fish to catch under the best of circumstances but that is what makes reeling one in all the more special.  In the back of your mind you know there is some monster lurking somewhere in the vastness of the river.  Could today be the day when chance brings your lure into the gaze of one of these behemoths?


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Relaxation

Tiger fishing can be physically strenuous with a constant flow of casting and reeling.  As the morning passes and your approach afternoon it can get hot out on the water with the sun beating down on you.  Despite this it brings a relaxing repetitiveness.  Cast.  Reel.  Cast.  Reel.  Take in the amazing surroundings.  A fish eagle perched on a nearby tree.  Some hippos watching you noisily.  The gentle wind keeping you cool.  The belief that each failed cast brings you one closer to the inevitable bite. 


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On my last trip in the Lower Zambezi I must have tossed a few hundred casts out in order to get about 2 good bites.  I did witness a fish eagle swoop in near one of my casts and snatch a fish not 10 feet from my lure.  No catch and release for her.  He came so close in fact that I initially thought he was going to take my lure.  What are the odds?  That alone made the whole activity quite a special outing.


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Great Guide & Snacks

On top of all of this you will have a fantastic guide taking you to the best fishing holes, setting up all your bait, giving you instructions, and serving you snacks and refreshments during the course of the day.  I was lucky enough to be the lone guest so I encouraged my guide to do some fishing with me.  Lucky I did else I would not have gotten a look at the elusive tiger!  These guys will bend over backwards to make your day a special one so I was quite pleased he was able to reel one in.  Plus it gave me the opportunity to film it.


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Everyone knows fishing can be an excellent source of bragging rights.  This is especially true if you are travelling in a small group.  Watching your loved one haul in a monster tiger is simultaneously thrilling and brings a slight pang of regret that it isn’t your bait the fish chose.  In the end it’s all in good fun but that doesn’t mean that we at Fish Eagle Safaris don’t know who holds the office record for one of these guys.  Bert and Kathy had success catching a few decent sized ones from the bank, not from a boat.  He said what made it a bit more challenging was having to first catch the bait fish.

 


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Kathy caught a nice 10 lb one and was certain she had gotten snagged on a log.  She asked the guide for some help and as he took the rod he exclaimed that there was one on the line.  Jason and I first went fishing on the Zambezi years ago and he was the first to hook one.  I remember watching him frantically reel as his line went slack.  I then remember seeing a huge tiger fish jump and if you looked close enough you could see it spit the hook out in our general direction.  Pure heartbreak.  At some point I convinced him to switch rods with me and I wound up pulling in a 12 or 13 pounder after a good fight.  I don’t think he has forgiven me to this day.

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