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Botswana

Take Yourself On Safari

7th April 2024

Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

5th April 2024

Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

Reviewing the trips which our Fish Eagle Safaris guests will be embarking on over the remainder of 2024, several more of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties popped up. These are places where we would be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives. Eat your heart out, Bill Murray.

Jao Camp, Okavango Delta – Botswana

Imagine being dropped off – blindfolded – on a small island in the Okavango Delta. As the helicopter noise fades into the background, you take off the blindfold. Where are you? It could be one of dozens of spots in the Delta. All stunningly beautiful, but not distinctively unique. Not so the Jao Concession in the western part of the Delta. Here, the typical Delta mosaic of palm-fringed islands, crystal clear waterways, papyrus-fringed lagoons and lush reedbeds takes on an identity of its own. Practically unmistakeable. Even on just my second visit, it became clear that this part of Northern Botswana was special and unique.   

Photo credit Dana Allen

There are several superb safari camps in the concession, with Wilderness’ Jao Camp at the pinnacle of luxury, comfort and all-round excellence. There are pretty spots in the Delta, and gorgeous riverine forests, and then there’s the spot where Jao was built. When on safari I suffer from pretty intense FOMO and almost never miss a game drive. At Jao, the tables are turned. You could miss out by getting into a vehicle and leaving camp. This is where you want to spend an extra night or even two, to revel in the sybaritic splendor of the spacious and elegantly designed tents, to linger over an exquisite dinner in the museum room, or to just spend a few hours on the verandah, soaking in the atmosphere. The entire camp is elevated about 3 to 5 meters above ground level, enhancing the views and adding a tree-house like feel. Sooner or later you might actually feel like venturing out, and of course there’s plenty to do beyond R & R. The camp offers daily guided wildlife safaris, as well as boat trips and mokoro excursions (subject to water levels), allowing visitors to explore the rich biodiversity of the Okavango Delta.

Mashatu Euphorbia Lodge – South Africa

Mashatu Euphorbia Villas is about as close as a safari lodge gets to being a work of art. It all starts with a winding drive up a steep hill into the most enchanting euphorbia forest you’ve ever seen. These stark, foreboding cactus plants – sometimes referred to as candelabra trees – loom alongside the drive into camp, a harbinger of what is to come. Crest the hill and suddenly you’re looking at as dramatic an entrance as there is to any safari camp in Africa. The experience builds from there. A  stunning lounge and dining area – not to mention the outdoor space, the boma and the nest seating area, perched on the edge of a 30-meter high cliff. The view? You just have to see it in person. During our recent visit the same superlatives could be heaped on the suites and the food. Impeccable. 

The game viewing experience at Mashatu is exceptional, with three species of big cats – lions, leopards and cheetahs – being seen regularly. This alone makes Mashatu a desirable destination, but there’s a lot more. Mashatu’s elephants are known for being tolerant to the presence of vehicles and you are likely to get surprisingly close to them from time to time. Other notable species include giraffes, zebras, eland (Africa’s largest antelope) and brown hyenas. Expert guides will take you on game drives or walks through the reserve, and as there is no prohibition on driving off-road or at night, you will almost assuredly have multiple opportunities to get close up and personal with many of these special mammals and the superb birdlife. Done enough game-driving? There are many other (optional, at additional cost) activities to enjoy at Mashatu including horseback riding, mountain biking, observing the animals and birds from a hide/blind (subject to availability) and bird watching.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – Rwanda

Wilderness Sabyinyo Lodge is hands down our favorite property in the Volcanoes National Park area. This beautiful lodge is located in a lush garden setting (the golden monkeys sometimes make a surprise visit) at the base of the Volcanoes National Park, with gorgeous views over the valley below and up towards several dormant volcanoes in the background. It is just minutes away from the Volcanoes National Park headquarters for the morning briefing before gorilla treks. The hospitality, food and rooms – and the main lodge – are all first class, and the lodge is 100% community-owned, with a sterling conservation ethos. There are several other lodges in the area with an even higher price tag (Sabyinyo is no slouch in that department) and bigger, fancier, rooms. We like Sabyinyo for providing an all-round stay which feels like spending time at someone’s private mountain lodge. Everything is to scale, it is relaxed yet with good attention to detail, and just feels like it fits into the environment without being jarring or out of place in any way.

Victoria Falls Hotel – Zimbabwe

There’s really no more interesting or fascinating place to spend a couple of nights in Vic Falls, than the Victoria Falls Hotel. Despite having all of the modern conveniences and much improved food and beverage service (compared with a few years ago), the hotel has lost none of its old-world charm. Staying there feels every bit like being transported back to the early 1900’s. Beautiful gardens, a first-class curio shop, interesting restaurants (one of which puts on a traditional dancing performance nightly) and ideally located to venture out on activities. The Victoria Falls Hotel is not only the ‘grande dame’ of all the hotels in the village, it also occupies a prime spot with a superb view over the Batoka Gorge, with the bridge spanning the chasm between Zimbabwe and Zambia right in the line of sight. Truly a timeless classic which has been carefully nurtured and maintained over the years, with all the rooms now fitted with modern bathrooms, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. The grounds and the public areas are worth exploring with a myriad of birds and smaller mammals around.

Tswalu Motse, Cape Kalahari –  South Africa

Tswalu is one of our favorite properties for many reasons, mostly because of the excellent game viewing and particularly the chance to see some special mammals such as habituated meerkats, black rhino and both pangolin and aardvark. It also has lots of desert-adapted animals like bat-eared foxes, gemsbok and springbok. Plus good predator numbers including cheetahs and lions. Tswalu includes a private guide and vehicle with all bookings and the guiding is superb. At Tswalu, you will also have the opportunity (included for all guests) to dine at Klein Jan, created by South Africa’s first Michelin Star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who owns Restaurant Jan in Nice, France. Klein Jan has become one of the world’s go-to restaurants despite its remote, isolated location in the Northern Cape’s Kalahari Desert. 

Thinking about including one or more of these stellar properties in your first or next trip to Africa? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Zimbabwe & Botswana special offers – low-demand season 2023-2024

12th October 2023

Zimbabwe & Botswana low-demand season special offers – 2023/2024

We’ve got several special offers available for the coming low-demand season in both Zimbabwe and Botswana. The specials are available for a range of properties in both countries, from December (in some instances November 2023) through to March and April 2024. For a few camps the discounts extend right until the end of May. 

Zimbabwe

The best all around deals are available for the Imvelo Safaris camps in Hwange – namely Camelthorn, Bomani, Nehimba and Jozibanini. Here’s the lowdown:  

*Stay three nights/Pay two nights.
*Stay seven nights/Pay five nights.
*Children 18 and under stay free when sharing with an adult. Up to two children per adult. 
*No single supplement. 
*A free private vehicle will be included for groups of four or more.

Add a couple of nights in Victoria Falls, put it all together and you’re looking at a nine night/ten day fly-in safari at a price of around $5,200 per person sharing, with three nights at Nehimba and four at Bomani, and two nights at Pioneers Lodge in Victoria Falls.  

This price is valid for 1 January 2024 to 30 April 2024, and from 1 December 2024 to 31 December 2024. The rates will be extended to 31 May 2024 at Camelthorn and Nehimba, and to 31 July 2024 at Jozibanini.

What is included:

*2 nights in Victoria Falls on bed & breakfast basis
*7 nights on safari at two safari camps in central and southern Hwange
*All meals, soft drinks, beers, wines & local spirits on safari
*Bed & breakfast accommodation in Victoria Falls
*Laundry included at safari camps
*All road transfers and two scheduled light air transfers from and back to Victoria Falls  
*A sundowner cruise on the Zambezi
*A private guided tour of Victoria Falls
*Twice daily game viewing activities at both safari properties
*A Ngamo community experience, a Community Rhino Conservation Initiative (CRCI) talk and rhino viewing at Bomani and Camelthorn

Excluded:

*Gratuities
*Hwange National Park entry fee of $20.00 per person per day 
*Rhino Conservation and Community Levy – $150 per person
*Commercial flights from the USA to and back from VFA (Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe).

Safari notes:

*The CRCI rhino sanctuary has become an incredible guest experience at Bomani and Camelthorn and is available year-round.
*Mack Air has economical charter flight rates into and out of Hwange year-round (including the low demand season), which makes getting around a lot easier and more affordable than private charters.

About Hwange

Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination. This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 40,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, often two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and African painted dogs.

The safari experience in Hwange is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya. One difference: Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally attractive roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other birds. Hwange is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.

Botswana in summer

There are few destinations in Southern Africa with quite the same appeal as Botswana in the low-demand season from December through the end of March. Even in years of good rainfall – not likely to be the case this coming summer – the precipitation is relatively low, hardly ever more than four inches average per month.  Most importantly, no part of the region is subject to the torrential rainfall which all too frequently affects the South African lowveld area (including much of the Kruger Park), from January through March, caused by tropical cyclones.  

With some rain – and the cooling effect of the cloudy weather – northern Botswana and the Kalahari (though still warm to hot in the afternoons) are much more pleasant than in the months of October and November. With even limited rainfall, the dry, dusty veld conditions seemingly change overnight, bursting with bright green vegetation, flowers and rich colors.

Conditions are ideal for photography. Beautifully soft morning and afternoon light. Crisp, clean air with minimal haze, and absolutely gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, almost always with some clouds around for added drama and color. I took some of my best ever leopard photographs in the Jao concession in Northern Botswana in March some years ago. Likewise in the Kwara area and at Duba in the northern Okavango Delta on two other February/March trips. Leopards, cheetahs, African painted dogs, giraffes, zebras – in perfect light, game drive after game drive.    

Include a few days in the Kalahari at Nxai Pan and discover an area simply teeming with life during the summer months when thousands of zebras migrate onto the open pans, in search of the fresh, emerging vegetation. Never too far behind? The impressive black-maned lions of the Kalahari and cheetahs clambering onto anthills or tree stumps on the lookout for springbok, steenbok or impala. In the summer months, there’s usually good numbers of big-tusked elephant bulls around, scattered groups of buffaloes and a variety of antelopes and abundant giraffes in the woodlands. On previous low-demand season trips to Northern Botswana we’ve gotten lucky with African painted dogs on several occasions, and there’s always a chance of seeing brown hyenas and African honey badgers.  

One of the best low-demand season offers for Botswana – available from January to March 2024 – is a “stay 8 nights, pay for 6 nights” deal from Desert & Delta at a price of less than $5,000 per person, including all internal charter flights from and back to Maun. The offer includes a 3-night stay at Leroo La Tau camp in the Kalahari. It is possible to include Chobe Game Lodge as well. This is what we would recommend:

*Two nights at Camp Okavango or Xugana Island Lodge. These typical Okavango Delta water camps offer the ultimate in relaxation in the heart of the Delta with unmatched walking, mokoro and boating activities.
*Three nights at Camp Moremi or Camp Xakanaxa. Here, on the edge of the Moremi Game reserve, guests can enjoy the perfect combination of prolific game viewing and motorized boat excursions into the Delta’s papyrus-choked channels exploring beautiful lagoons, small palm-fringed islands and patches of floodplain.
*Three nights at Leroo La Tau inclusive of a Nxai Pan day trip, a cultural experience and excellent photography opportunities along the Boteti River Valley.

This coming summer may be one of the best opportunities in many years to visit Botswana during the low demand season. With fewer travelers in the region, visitors will enjoy what is already a remote wilderness area, even more. For more details, please call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 during normal business hours, Monday to Friday, or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

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Camp Okavango, Botswana

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango,
Botswana


Image

Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk from the airstrip right into camp.  My colleague Lyndon, who just returned from a visit to Camp Okavango, described it as “a flooded, flat and lush paradise.”  Camp O made a great first impression on me, too, when I first arrived there.


Image

Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Starting with the well-maintained and manicured airstrip and the campgrounds,  heavily vegetated with some massive trees right in front of the  dining, lounge and patio complex. The huge garden harbors tons of birds, but unfortunately I did not have enough time to do it justice with some ‘serious’ birding. We did see a Paradise Flycatcher flitting about; it had a nest just off the boma (fireplace) area.


Image

Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

One of the other guests and I took off with our guide on a short fishing excursion in an aluminum skiff. Even if we never reached the area which we did (for fishing) the journey itself would have been worth it. What an amazing experience it was to glide through this narrow waterway, with high ‘walls’ of papyrus and reeds on either side, avoiding shallow sandy spots, and observing many birds, as well as a few small crocodiles, and water monitors en route.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Then suddenly, there was a hippo, completely out of the water, right in our way. Our boatsman was fortunately properly trained for such an event. Instead of slowing down or stopping, which could have led to a nasty confrontation, he barreled on. The hippo submerged and dove out of our way, and we pretty much went right over the spot which it had occupied just seconds earlier.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Looking back we saw that the hippo had resurfaced and was giving us the hippo version of the upturned middle finger in the form of a belligerent posture and stare. That was almost too exciting. And it happened much too quickly for photographs! As for the fishing, I’m afraid despite our best efforts we were unsuccessful.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

In the afternoon we observed a basket-weaving demonstration by some of the local staff who do their weaving after hours and in their spare time, with the items being sold at the camp curio shop.  At around 4:00p, our group went out on a dugout canoe/mokoro outing to an area not far from the airstrip, for our afternoon activity.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

It was a fun and relaxing outing with sundowners being served on a small island, complete with an ‘island bar’ setup. During the outing we saw many different types of birds, including the rare and highly endangered Wattled Crane, as well as some water-adapted mammals and many of the spectacular plants found in the Okavango Delta, such as the beautiful water lilies.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

The following morning,  we were up early for a walking excursion from Camp Okavango. Before we got underway by boat, there was time for a healthy breakfast consisting of muesli with rice milk, a fresh fruit salad and some toast, with rooibos tea on the side. All the camps also serve eggs to order, usually with beef or pork sausage, bacon and other side dishes.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Refreshed and energized, we enjoyed yet another exhilarating boat ride (same route as on the previous day’s fishing excursion) to an island about 30 minutes away. This time around, we had our cameras ready but there was no hippopotamus barring the way.  We did make a small detour into a backwater area where we observed a pod of hippos, though. And inquisitive they were too, coming closer and closer to the boat until our skipper decided it was time to move on.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

The island where we walked – I believe it is called Lopis Island – has some very diverse habitat consisting of open floodplain, with patches of woodland, and a nice strip of fairly dense riverine forest with sausage trees and large mangosteen trees amongst others. We saw a few elephants at a distance and walked towards a group of giraffes who no doubt saw us coming a long distance away. To make the walk even more interesting, the guides drew our attention to several interesting plant species and talked about their medicinal and other uses.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Back in camp, it was time for — lunch! As always, the vegan & vegetarian members of the group were more than adequately catered for with salads, an excellent and flavorful lentil dish with rice, a fruit salad and a vegetarian tart.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Lyndon’s recent stay at Camp Okavango was quite similar to mine.  Here is what he had to say:  “Camp Okavango is a typical Delta camp with water activities such as mekoro outings and boating, plus walking.  The rooms are spacious, and the property has an exceptionally large main area.  It is rather a long walk to the rooms at the end of the boardwalk on either side of the camp.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

We did a mekoro outing in the afternoon, utilizing a lovely area just adjacent to the camp.  Even though it was mid-winter it was hot and sunny.  Seeing some painted reed frogs close up was a highlight, otherwise the outing was quiet.  

For dinner we had a surprise bush dinner.  A very elaborate setup with lanterns, the lot.  We were entertained with some energetic singing and dancing – great fun.  The barbecued pork and beef were both excellent.  The sticky toffee pudding was better than at Savute.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

In the morning we did about a two hour game walk.  Although we heard lions roaring in the distance we did not encounter them.  We did see a side-striped jackal though, and plenty of pretty birds.  As a surprise the night after the mokoro outing Andrea Hugo (who represents Desert & Delta Safaris in the USA), arranged for Helicopter Horizons to take us up for a flight-seeing excursion by chopper. 


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

They took the doors off a 4-seater helo and flew us around three at a time, for about 15 to 20 minutes.  Such a great perspective from the air, over the Okavango Delta mosaic of islands, channels, lagoons and floodplains.  A helicopter flight is included free of charge with any 10-night Desert & Delta safari.”

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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South Africa

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On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

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Savute Safari Lodge, Botswana

3rd October 2022

Savute Safari Lodge, Botswana


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Savute Safari Lodge, Botswana

If you were to look at a time-lapse photography sequence taken from Savute Safari Lodge between 2008 and the present, the one thing that will stand out – other than the passing parade of animals, day and night – will be the state of the Savuti Channel, a natural spillway which starts at the Zibadianja Lagoon and ends in the Savute Marsh.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Back in 2008 there was an artificially maintained waterhole in front of the camp and nothing else.  At the time the Savuti Channel had reverted to being an ephemeral river or linear oasis – the kind of river which occasionally collects some water from local runoff with a few pools here and there, and some spots where elephants could get their trunks into clean water just below the surface of the sand.  The water hole in front of camp was a hive of activity, particularly in the dry season.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

By 2009 – for reasons that are still not entirely clear but likely the result of a heavier rainfall pattern over several years – also known as a wet cycle – the Savute Channel had started to flow strongly again and at least for a while the presence or absence of waterholes such as the one at Savute Lodge did not matter one way or another.  There was water all along the channel from its source close to the Zibadianja Lagoon, all the way to the Savuti Marsh.


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At least initially this made game-viewing in the area more challenging because it created more dispersal of big game species such as elephants and buffalo who did not ‘have’ to come to the few remaining waterholes in the dry season – they had access to water pretty much anywhere.

By the time we got back to Savute late in 2014, the Savute Channel was still flowing but not very strongly – and the elephants were back at the original waterhole in big numbers, trying to get to the source of the fresh water which they prefer to the muddy stuff available elsewhere in the channel.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Right now – as our colleague Lyndon saw on a visit to Savute Safari Camp about 10 days ago – the Savute Channel is dry again with no water flowing at all.  There are pumped waterholes, but other than that no permanent water. Which means it has come full circle, all the way back to what it was like,  13 years ago.  The elephants frequenting the water hole in front of the camp on a daily basis are also back to stay, with the water hole being one of the few permanent and reliable sources of water in a huge area.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Savute Safari Camp had seen other changes as well over the last few years.  Extensive refurbishments had been undertaken in the main public areas.  The objective was  to make the best use of the space in front of the Savute channel and the active waterhole. The new facilities include a relocated swimming pool – now more private than before – new walkways, multiple dining locations and new deck areas with a live cooking area for brunches and dinner.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

The camp now has multiple leveled viewing decks connected by walkways, providing different vantage points over the waterhole so that guests can find their own space to enjoy bar service and admire the remarkable animal encounters that take place around the channel and water hole. The rooms/chalets at Savute Safari Lodge have been significantly upgraded as well.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

The chalets are elegantly furnished in neutral tones to blend with the natural environment, feature expansive private decks, a combined bedroom and lounge area and en suite facilities.  The lodge can accommodate twenty four guests in eleven thatched chalets built of local timber and one family room which consists of two double bedrooms.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Savute Safari Lodge offers an exceedingly comfortable stay at a reasonable price, and the management and staff are most welcoming and helpful.  On my most recent visit, everyone made a point of introducing him or herself and maintained a high degree of interaction with all the guests for the duration of their stay. 

The grounds of Savute Safari Lodge are well maintained with good walkways and borders and several natural patches, resulting in an abundance of birdlife and small mammals such as dwarf and slender tailed mongoose and tree squirrels.

Legendary Lodge


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Here is what Lyndon had to say at the conclusion of his recent (July 2021) stay at Savute Safari Lodge:

“Shortly after a buffet brunch we headed out in search of the Marsh Pride (lions) with our guides Metal and Isaac.  Although the drive was quiet on the way out, we were amply rewarded with a sighting of almost 20 lions lying in the shade of a tree.  This pride has been dominated by a couple of huge brothers for the past 12 years, longer than most wild lions’ lifespan.  Several wildlife documentaries have featured them and their hunting prowess.  They had recently taken down a wildebeest and were still resting up; it was not yet time to venture out again.  Even so, it was a rewarding experience to see such an abundance of lions in one place!


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Dinner was on the deck overlooking the channel, where the water hole is lit up at night.  We enjoyed a meal with some delicious mashed sweet potato, broccoli, assorted vegetables and kudu steak as well as sticky toffee pudding for dessert.  It is shocking how quickly it can cool down in the evening and after dinner it became properly cold, right away.  Our group enjoyed some drinks around a bonfire before heading to bed.  

Our final morning drive was frigid but I actually prefer it that way.  Nothing better than to wake you up after a deep African slumber than a cold, cold wind blowing in your face as you set out on a game drive.  Layer up, grab a blanket and perhaps a heated water bottle like the ones they provide at Savute and enjoy!


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We took a small detour to a rocky outcropping which is home to an old San/bushman cave.  There are some beautiful rock paintings just outside the cave.  Visitors need to take note that the path is steep and rocky in some parts, albeit quite short.  Our game drive was successful again with us witnessing a brilliant roaring display by a striking male lion.


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One thing that I have noticed that has changed during Covid is that you no longer get the large spread of snacks as was traditional at a point during your morning game drive (tea/coffee break) or in the late afternoon for sundowners.  Instead each guest is given their portion in a small paper sack.  It typically includes all the ingredients you would need to make your own tea, coffee or chocolate milk and often includes some snacks.  I do miss the old way of doing this and I am hopeful that someday we will be able to return to that.  In the meantime I think everyone is now used to these small sacrifices and it shouldnt detract from the overall experience.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

While I am on the subject, the mask protocol, for the most part, is as follows:  In camp I wear a mask in public/main areas unless I am eating or having a drink.  In your room and on a game drive it is fine to go without.  On light air transfers and inside any airport terminals, I wear it.”

On my own most recent trip to Savute Safari Lodge, it soon became evident that we had happened upon a once-in-a-life time wilderness experience where the game-viewing was elevated to an almost surreal, hyper level.  Never before had we seen such a high density of elephants spread out in such a large area.   Not at Amboseli, not at Hwange, not at Chobe and not at Kruger Park.  The number of large bull elephants roaming around the Savute Marsh on this trip was simply astonishing, and there were dozens of large breeding herds around every corner.


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This was on an early December trip, just after the first rains had fallen.  Our driver-guide had to take evasive action all the time, either driving off road to avoid the lumbering animals, or stopping and waiting for them to cross.  In 30 years of going on safari, this still ranks in the ‘top three’ of our ultimate elephant experiences, the other two being at Little Makalolo in early November one year and at Amboseli in June.   It was a confluence of factors which we realize is unlikely to happen again.  Possibly there was inadequate vegetation available in the Linyanti area with earlier rain creating ideal grazing conditions in and around the marsh itself.  For whatever reason it seemed like every last elephant in Northern Botswana was in Savute that week.


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What made the entire experience even more special, was the presence of so many other animals.  There were zebras moving into the fringes of the marsh in their tens and hundreds, kudu of all sizes and ages around everywhere, hundreds of impala with multiple hundreds of babies, many giraffes, plus good numbers of wildebeest and even a few roan antelope.


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On top of that we also found ourselves right in the middle of a massive herd of buffalo on the final afternoon, moving in the direction of a watering hole.  A while later, we relocated to a different spot where two lionesses were watching the approaching buffalo herd, seemingly weighing up the odds of making a successful attempt at bringing one down.  Ultimately they decided not to, which was a wise decision as they were totally outnumbered and would have been no match for the many large, powerful buffalo bulls at the waterhole.


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The game-viewing at Savute Safari Lodge did not stop at hundreds of elephant, zebra and other plains game.  We had previously – on an all-day trip from Ghoha Hills – seen the Marsh Pride on the edge of the marsh.  On the day of our arrival at Savute Safari Lodge we went back to take a look at them and they were still in the same spot in the marsh, about 20 meters or so off the road.


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The following morning we were on our way back to the marsh when our guide received word of the presence of a pack of African Painted Dogs near the Rock Painting site.  We promptly drove there, missed them on the first attempt and then enjoyed a very good – albeit brief – view of 5 or so of the animals moving from our right to left and eventually disappearing into the thick bush.


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Just minutes later we were looking at a trio of mating leopards.  Usually leopards are found either by themselves or in a mating pair.  Or sometimes a female with youngsters.  This was an exception as an older male leopard was vying for the attention of a female who had paired up with a younger, more energetic male.  At first the older leopard was just resting up on a rock ledge but eventually he got into the action as well, displacing the young male towards the latter stages of the encounter.


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Driving around the edges of the marsh, our vehicle was followed by several carmine bee-eaters, intent on catching the insects stirred up by our activities.  In the process I managed a few decent pics of these colorful birds in flight – always something to behold. Beautiful birds in flight, something to look forward to when planning a visit to Savute Safari Lodge – and the Savute Marsh.

Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Chobe Game Lodge, Botswana

3rd October 2022

Chobe Game Lodge, Botswana’


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Chobe Game Lodge, Botswana

I’ve always been a Chobe Game Lodge ‘fan’ and my most recent experience there just underscored the many positives of staying there.  It is the only lodge inside the Chobe National Park and it has an ideal location right on the Chobe River.  There are some restrictions being inside the reserve (no off-roading and no night drives) and at times there can be too many vehicles in one area or at one sighting.  But these issues can be managed (for example with an early game drive start) and there is a very good road network so it is really not critical to be able to drive off-road.  In a park environment like this it will cause chaos and ruin the place in no time.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

The main reason to visit Chobe Game Lodge is to enjoy its proximity to the water and the much greater degree of exclusivity which you can get doing a boat cruise on the river, as opposed to a game drive.  Being on the river is a fantastic safari experience and lends itself to some of the best wildlife photographs of all, with animals inside or on the edge of the water, and a nice green backdrop to boot.  There are few – if any – places in Africa where you will enjoy better views of giant Nile crocodiles and hippopotamus, both in and out of the water, than at Chobe Game Lodge.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Year-round but more so in the dry season the boat safaris are ideal for observing the famous Chobe elephants in and around the river.  At times there are huge herds of them congregating on the banks of the Chobe River.  Sometimes just slaking their thirst, more often than not getting totally submerged and even swimming to some of the islands.  Ideally observed and photographed from one of the CGL safari boats.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

A couple of nights at Chobe Game Lodge will improve almost any Botswana itinerary.  Just don’t go there thinking it will be like spending time in a small tented safari camp.  Quite the opposite:  CGL is a hotel in the bush but a very special one with superb atmosphere, game galore, a very long list of things to do, great for kids and just flat-out fun and entertaining.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

My colleague Lyndon spent a couple of nights at Chobe Game Lodge barely a week ago (early July 2021) and had this to say:  “This is my second stay at Chobe Game Lodge and it has really cemented why it is a favorite of ours in Chobe.  Even though it is a proper lodge and on the larger side of things compared to many of the small, intimate camps in Botswana, the staff and guides always make sure it has the feel of a smaller camp.  Plus it has an enviable position inside Chobe National Park, farther west than the myriad of lodges in Kasane.  This makes the boat cruises feel almost as if you are in a private concession.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

After arrival into Kasane it is a 10-minute drive to get to the national park border, followed by a 45-minute slow-moving transfer to the lodge.  We had time to get settled in our rooms before heading out on a sunset cruise.  All the boats are electric, another unique CGL advantage.  Highlights included plentiful elephants, a gorgeous sunset and witnessing an African fish eagle pull a massive tiger fish from the river not 30 feet from our boat.  It actually landed in the water partially submerged before taking flight with the prize in its talons.  Fantastic!


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Meals are served a la carte and are quite good.  For dinner I had onion & leek soup, steak and creme brulee.  The first two were excellent; the creme brulee could have  done with a slightly more delicate sugar crust.

Temperatures during the afternoon and evening were quite mild, which made it surprising how chilly the start of the morning game drive turned out to be.  Visitors need to be prepared to layer their clothing in late June and July.  After a slow start we spotted a lion off in the distance and made our way over to it.  There were two females heading back to the bush after having an early morning drink in the river.  At Chobe Game Lodge the vehicles are all electric and seating is 4 X 3 – the guiding crew is all female.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Another good dinner on my second night there, with tomato and carrot soup, lamb and a delicious, traditional malva pudding to end things off.  The following morning we took a sunrise cruise.  If you spend at least two nights here, this is a good option.  There were lots of birds around, good general game and we experienced a gorgeous sunrise.”

Over the course of several visits to the property over the years,  the interior part of the lodge including the reception, bar/lounge, verandah and restaurant have remained very much the same.  The rooms have undergone some significant upgrading, with noticeably bigger bathrooms.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Something which I noticed on arrival on my last visit – for a late lunch – was the addition of an 800-meter long raised walkway which hugs the edge of the Chobe River and makes the most of the fantastic views over the water and grassy plains beyond. 

The walkway has several nooks where private dinners or other activities can be enjoyed and it is large enough – at the eastern-most point – to host an outdoor dinner for the entire camp.  Subsequently, the owners of CGL extended the western portion of the boardwalk as well, all the way to the current boat jetty.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

Another relatively new addition was a large outdoor dining/boma venue, with oversized umbrella stands capable of providing shade for 30+ people if required. The pool at CGL is still in an ideal semi-shaded spot, blending into the natural scenery.

From a previous visit to CGL, I recalled the wide choice and nice presentation of food dishes.  If anything, the food selection and choice was even better on my last visit.  Invariably there were multiple choices of starters, main course and desserts for dinner and lunch, and an array of hot and cold items for breakfast.  Coffee lovers take note:  CGL has an espresso machine which produces some fantastic coffee!


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

In summer (Nov to Feb), morning game drives at CGL start early – at 0530A – which requires a wake-up call as early as 0430A to 0500A – depending on how quickly you can get ready.  Most guests show up at the restaurant at just after 0500A for a cup of coffee or tea and a rusk or freshly baked muffin.

Then it is off on a game drive of about 3 hours duration.  The very early departure has two main benefits:  you get to enjoy the cool morning temperatures before it starts to get really hot around 10:00 am, and you mostly beat the crowd by being able to enjoy game viewing west of CGL for a good amount of time – as much as 2 hours – before other vehicles & day trippers from Kasane start to show up.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

My first two ‘green season’ outings at CGL – a boat trip on the day of arrival and a game drive the next morning – were quite slow.  No elephants were seen and other than some hippo in the Chobe River, the only large mammals we saw were a good group of about 50 buffaloes.  Plus hundreds of impala and all of their babies.

By the time a family of three Americans including their Peace Corps volunteer daughter joined us on the afternoon game drive on December 15 we were starting to get a bit anxious.  Would they see something on their first ever game drive in Africa?  Where were the elephants?  There was no reason to be worried.


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We were hardly out of camp when we started to see the first of what ended up being dozens if not quite hundreds of elephants.  Some were coming back from the Chobe River and others were on their way there – at one stage we saw two large breeding herds cross paths while a third – smaller – group was observing from nearby. 

It didn’t stop with elephants.  We also saw giraffes (many!), kudu, buffalo, and enjoyed a long-awaited sighting of a handsome pride of Chobe lions.  There were about 7 or 8 individuals altogether, one young male on one side of the road and a group of about 6 females all lying more or less on top of one another.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

We watched them for quite a while, with two sisters entertaining us with some playful jostling and display of affection.

Back in camp I had a rare chance to get some exercise, spending 30 minutes on the treadmill.  My stay at Chobe Game Lodge was concluded with a ‘behind the scenes’ tour of the property’s green initiatives which are significant and laudable.  The property is very serious about recycling everything from plastic and paper right down to glass bottles which get crushed and mixed into bricks – in fact as much as 95% of all of the lodge’s trash is sorted and recycled.  CGL has a very effective grey water recycling program and it also generates a substantial amount of bio-gas on the property.


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

CGL has been moving forward on other fronts as well:  the lodge is now operating a fleet of all-electric game drive vehicles as well as electric pontoon boats.   As I can attest from personal experience, it is a novel and exciting experience to approach the wildlife on the electrically operated game drive vehicles as there is no noise to scare them off or make them apprehensive.  Even the tiny impala babies, normally very skittish around regular game drive vehicles, let us approach very close.  Clearly it will improve the game-viewing experience as the guide is able to hear ‘clues’ like alarm calls which might otherwise have been drowned out by the noise of the engine.  There is nothing wrong with the vehicle’s ability to get into and out of ‘real’ 4-wheel terrain either!


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Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris

In summary:  For visitors who would like to experience a safari, but who are not quite ready for a tented camp or for the expense of flying into the Delta or elsewhere, Chobe Game Lodge is a great option. Yes, with 44 rooms it is much larger than other lodges, but it offers a lot of activities and services that are not available in the bush. It offers game drives as well as boat excursions on the Chobe River for some great looks at hippo, crocodiles and elephants along the shoreline.  Resident professional guides also offer stargazing and guided walks, there is a beautiful swimming pool, a riverside boma area where traditional dancers perform, fast wifi and a workout room complete with a treadmill. There is even a pizza oven!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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