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Where to go on safari in 2022-23

19th November 2021

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

As the Covid pandemic retreats worldwide, thoughts turn to resuming life the way we once did, filled with family, friends, togetherness – and travel.

Picking up where we left off around March of 2020, we can once again dream and plan on visiting foreign shores.

As and when travelers resume planning trips to Africa, they soon find out that there are dozens of safari destinations and hundreds of combinations of camps and activities.

Fortunately, there are just a few golden rules for a happy and successful safari trip:

* Spend more time in fewer locations. Now more than ever it makes sense to take a single country trip with fewer, longer stops.

* If you have a good guide you can have a great safari almost anywhere, anytime.

* Smaller is always better than bigger when it comes to group size and camp size.

* You almost always get what you pay for; in the case of a good safari it is prime location, small camp, good guiding, privacy (private concessions, private guide & vehicle), all-inclusive pricing and an all-round quality experience with no unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few destinations we visited recently and which we think hold great appeal for the next couple of years, for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, all of these destinations are suitable for a single country trip, reducing the number of potential Covid tests and lessening the burden of entry formalities and hassles associated with border crossings.

ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe’s three prime game-viewing areas namely Hwange, Matusadona (Lake Kariba) and Mana Pools make a truly unbeatable safari combination with as much diversity as just about any other safari destination. You’d have to fly between some areas but even with the inclusion of flights, 10 days split between these three areas in the high season is still going to be 50% less than comparable camps in Botswana.

Start your trip in Victoria Falls for the views and an extraordinary range of adventure activities and consider including the Matobos for rhino viewing, terrific scenery, culture and history.

Zimbabwe is a classic African safari destination with excellent game-viewing, headlined by the presence of thousands of elephants in all of the major national parks, most notably Hwange which has in excess of 30,000 elephants. Add to that buffaloes, eland, plenty of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, special antelopes such as roan and sable and a good variety of cats and you end up with a first-class game-viewing destination.

KENYA
There is simply nowhere better for a first safari than Kenya. Why? Diversity of habitats, abundance of animals and wide-open plains making game-viewing relatively easy and rewarding. Add to that a well-functioning tourism infrastructure, super-friendly people and a wide range of accommodations catering to every taste and budget. Kenya is easy to get to from the USA via Europe or the Middle East, or on a non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, currently operating several days per week.

I would be very hard pressed to think of a 10-day safari that offers nearly as much to see and experience as a combination of Amboseli (no place better for elephants & views of Kilimanjaro); Lewa or Samburu (spectacular endemics such as Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra & beautiful ‘out of Africa’ views) and the Masai Mara, for simply the best game-viewing in Africa. This can be done on a fly-in basis with any start date. Shoulder months such as June and November offer excellent value for money.

WESTERN TANZANIA AND THE SERENGETI
Prefer to be away from the ‘maddening crowds’ and able to handle some long flights and the occasional bit of discomfort in pursuit of authenticity and excitement? If so, then Tanzania and specifically a combination of the Serengeti, Tarangire and Katavi National Park in far western Tanzania would be ideal.

What to expect? Mostly small, remote camps with few other people, excellent game-viewing and superb birding plus simply the best chimpanzee treks in all of Africa, at Mahale Mountains National Park. The addition of a few days in Katavi National Park elevates this from a great trip to an outstanding one. This remote park is an unvarnished slice of African wilderness where the dry season pushes its large hippo population to the limits of endurance. Big herds of buffalo, elephant, plenty of predators – Katavi has it all and there’s few other people around.

The ideal itinerary for this combination would have 4 or 5 nights in the Serengeti (which can be split between the northern and central region), 3 nights at Greystoke Camp in the Mahale Mountains National Park and 4 nights at Chada Katavi. Stay a little longer by adding a couple of nights at Ngorongoro Crater at the start of the trip.

SOUTHERN TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR
For another remote and very private Africa experience, I would recommend a combination of 4 nights in the Ruaha National Park in south-central Tanzania (Nomad’s Kigelia, Asilia’s Kwihala or Jabala Ridge or Mwagusi Camp) plus one or two camps in the Selous Game Reserve (Sand Rivers – sublime) and perhaps Beho-Beho (on our Groundhog Day list). And then add a few days in Zanzibar at the end, a combination of Stone Town and one of the beach resorts. If pressed for time, a couple of nights in Stone Town would suffice as long as you include a half day walking tour of Stone Town (must do) and possibly an outing to Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Red Colobus monkeys and the Mangroves. The Spice Tour is a bit touristy but highly entertaining and educational.

ZAMBIA
Zambia is huge and with three premier safari areas – South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue – it has an amazing diversity of scenery, habitat and activities. Walking is central to the experience everywhere yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. They do the walking excursions mostly early in the morning as it can and does get hot later in the day.

Some of the best areas in Zambia like the Kafue and Lower Zambezi are considerably better later in the dry season, so my recommendation would be to travel there from July through October. It does get hot and dry then but definitely worth it for the concentration of elephants and other wildlife, close to water.

In terms of game-viewing, the highlights in the Kafue National Park include lions and leopards. The latter are well represented at Musekese Camp (which we highly recommend visiting) where there are 17 leopards in the area just around the camp. On a visit earlier this year, we saw two females interacting which is highly unusual. All the leopards have individual designations and their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied.

The South Luangwa National Park is also known for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are multiple thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost never quite out of hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. We are partial to the Shenton camps (Kaingo and Mwamba) as well as the Bushcamp Company and Time & Tide properties. They all offer a slightly different experience – depending on location and season – but all are excellent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park offers a distinctively different experience and setting, with most of the camps located on the banks of the Zambezi. So in addition to game drives (day and early evening), you can also do boating and canoeing, as well as walking. From August onwards the seeds of the Winterthorn trees start to drop, which attracts dozens of elephants day and night. The pods are like candy to them. This is best seen and experienced at the camps west of Jeki Airstrip, being Old Mondoro, the Tusk & Mane camps and Anabezi.

The area around Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi is impossibly atmospheric and there is just nowhere else like it. Tusk and Mane’s Kutali and Chula camps are rustic with bucket showers (having proper flush toilets) but the experience is as ‘classic safari’ as it gets.

The canoeing experience on the Lower Zambezi is amazing as well. We saw about 50 hippos on a three hour canoe outing and elephants crossed the channel in front of us and behind us. All in all an action packed outing with a few jolts of adrenaline here and there, yet I felt quite safe due to the expert guiding. Boating on the Kafue and the Zambezi rivers adds yet another facet to the Zambia experience. The two rivers are so different yet I found both of them to be fascinating given the immense flow of water and the importance they have to the wildlife areas in Zambia.

At any time of the year, the vehicle density in Zambia – except in the Mfuwe area – is lower than anywhere else. The camps are really small, mostly with just 4 or 5 tents. In areas like the Lower Zambezi and Kafue the experience is like being on your own private African safari.

BOTSWANA
I have not changed my mind about Botswana being among the very best safari destinations of any. On a recent trip which included Chief’s Island in the Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, we again experienced Botswana’s abundance of wildlife, beautiful scenery and friendly people.

On our very first game drive out of Chief’s Camp we saw African painted dogs, lions and cheetahs. That set the pace for the entire trip, with buffaloes on our arrival at Eagle Island Lodge, a couple of baby leopards there, interaction between two sets of male lions at Xigera Safari Camp and ending with a mother and baby pair of white rhinos at Dinaka, in the Kalahari. And of course all the plains game including plentiful giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, lechwes, gemsbok, springbok, tsessebe, steenbok, a myriad of hippos and more.

Botswana has gotten quite pricey – especially from June through the end of October (high season), but you don’t have to spend weeks here to have a fantastic time on safari. Seven to nine nights total on safari is more than adequate. For a longer trip, add on a few days in Zimbabwe or South Africa. To keep the price manageable, consider going in the low-demand season, from November through the end of March. If you spend a bit more time in fewer areas (to give yourself a little more time and opportunity to find some of the elusive species like leopards and cheetahs), it can be every bit as good as the high season.

Some visitors – notably photographers – consider the low season to be the best time of the year, bar none. Why? There are lots of baby animals around (notably hundreds of baby impalas) which stimulates predator activity. Just about every day, you will experience gorgeous sunrises and sunsets due to the presence of some clouds. There are many bird species in breeding plumage, and lots of summer migrant bird species present, including the strident woodland kingfisher, several species of shrikes, bee-eaters, orioles, wading birds, birds of prey and many more. The animals are generally in good condition at this time of the year due to abundant food sources, and the green vegetation creates beautiful backdrops. The bottom line? Travel to Botswana in the low demand season and enjoy superb game-viewing and exceptionally good photography conditions at much lower prices, with far fewer other visitors around. Call or email us for information about several superb low-demand season trip itineraries and cost estimates.

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Cape Town area sightseeing

3rd November 2021

Cape Town area sightseeing

It’s hard to find fault with Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘Mother City’. After all, it is one of the prettiest cities in the world. It starts with Table Mountain as the perfect backdrop, Table Bay in the foreground, the Atlantic Ocean, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, the captivating Victoria & Alfred Waterfront with its working harbor and yacht basin – and builds from there. In every direction, there is something interesting to see and to experience, from penguins to pedigree wines, endemic fynbos plant species to fantastic restaurants.

Cape Town is diverse, it’s exciting and it’s different. Read most of the street signs in the downtown area and you could easily imagine being in Amsterdam. Many buildings, statues and monuments harken back to the city’s earlier days under first Dutch and then English rule. Cape Town appeals to any and every traveler, no matter what their specific interests or passions may be. Wine aficionados, foodies, ‘culture vultures’, exercise and adventure junkies, gardening enthusiasts, amateur naturalists, photographers at any level, birdwatchers, hikers and climbers, sailing enthusiasts, beach people, artistic types, history buffs, artists – there is something of interest for the entire spectrum of visitors. That applies to residents as well, naturally.

Listen to the people around you in Cape Town and you’ll begin to appreciate the diversity and complexity of the city’s make-up: you’ll hear a lot of Afrikaans spoken – and much of that in a distinctive local dialect. English is widely spoken too, and a visitor can rely on getting around and finding assistance and answers to questions, in English. In communities like Langa and Nyanga, the predominantly African inhabitants speak mostly Xhosa. Beyond that, you will hear smatterings of European languages like German, Dutch and French in places like Sea Point, Hout Bay and elsewhere. English with a distinctive American accent? At any of the V & A Waterfront hotels.

Did I mention that it is difficult to find negatives about the city? To be sure, there are a few. The winter months, notably June, July & August can be dismal as the city has a winter rainfall climate, unlike practically the entire rest of South Africa. Where the winters can be cold, but dry. So only and mostly in the Southwestern Cape can it be cold, rainy and windy – often simultaneously – in the winter months. Winter storms can be intense with high winds and sometimes heavy rain, but mostly temperatures are moderate (with highs barely in the 50’s F) with light rain and mist.

Cape Town’s traffic issues are nowadays just as bad as those in the much larger metropolis of Johannesburg. Driving out of the city in rush hour – particularly on Fridays – can be a total bear. Of course, being a visitor, you can mostly avoid traveling during peak traffic hours. Unless your flight to your next destination departs in the early evening. In that case, allow yourself plenty of time to get to the airport. Cape Town’s formerly excellent local rail service has fallen on hard times and in general the public transport services are negatively affected by crime, vandalism and protests. Fortunately Uber is ubiquitous and cheap so by all means use it to get around town. Your hotel or guest house can also assist you in arranging a permitted taxi if you prefer that option.

Cape Town can get rather too busy for some people, from about mid-December through early January. During the high holiday season it is jam-packed with up-country visitors (look for the telltale Gauteng license plates) and with international visitors from all over the world and the rest of Africa. It can be tough to get into the better restaurants, there is a huge line at the lower cable car station, getting in and out of the Waterfront area can be a mission, and popular tourist sites like the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Kirstenbosch and the Boulders Beach penguin colony and many of the wineries, are crowded. If you are able to travel either before or after the holiday season, do it.

So what are our recommendations for visitors for things to do and see in the space of a few days in Cape Town? Here are some of them:

IN AND AROUND THE CITY
Take the revolving cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain. Do this at the first best opportunity, whenever the mountain is ‘open’ and the cable car is operating. Don’t wait until your last day as conditions sometimes change within hours and the cable car operation shuts down when the wind velocity is too high or because of poor visibility. Weather-related shutdowns can sometimes stretch into a couple of days, so drop whatever else you have planned, and go up the mountain if and when it is open. Early mornings are best to avoid the crowds. Definitely consider hiking either up or down – more about that later in the blog.

Visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – it is a jewel. Don’t miss the Boomslang canopy walk, the Cycad amphitheatre with dinosaur sculptures, and the Protea garden. If you have half a day for this, that would be ideal, but if all you have are two or three hours, it would still be worth it.

Take a guided Peninsula tour including Hout Bay, Chapman’s Peak Drive, Kommetjie, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (take the funicular to the lookout point), and the African Penguins at Boulders. If you have time, a guided half day City Tour is also most enjoyable. You may prefer to take a tour on the ‘Hop on Hop off’ City sightseeing bus.

Visit the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for some interesting walks along the breakwater, shopping (of course), visiting one or more of the huge variety of restaurants and pubs, and check out the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Set aside an hour or two for a stroll – or better yet a run – along the Sea Point Promenade. There’s beautiful vistas over the ocean, the people-watching is equally intriguing and you’ll get some exercise. You can start from the V & A Waterfront and make your way up as far as Bantry Bay, if you are not pressed for time.

Make some time for Cape Town’s beautiful beaches such as Clifton, Muizenberg and Camps Bay, particularly in the warmer summer months from October through April.

Stroll the Company’s Garden area where there are several worthwhile museums; the ‘top’ entrance is just across the street from the Mt. Nelson Hotel. Which – incidentally – has the best high tea in Southern Africa, if you’re feeling peckish.

Get your cultural card stamped with a visit to the Zeitz MOCAA Museum (Silo Hotel); Irma Stern Museum, Iziko South African (Natural History) Museum, SA National Gallery, SA Jewish Museum, or District Six Museum.

Visit Robben Island by ferry boat. While this is ordinarily a worthwhile trip, we have misgivings about recommending it due to perennial management problems. Ferries are known to run late, are canceled last minute and the like. So best to gather some local (up to date) intel on the status of the operation, before you buy your ticket.

In search of a bargain or a local curiosity? Browse the Long Street and GreenMarket Square markets – this can be done in conjunction with visiting the Company’s Garden.

Visit the Castle of Good Hope Museum; be sure to take in the ‘changing of the guard’ and visit the William Fehr art exhibit inside the building, as well as the Cape Military Museum.

Take a guided walking tour of the The Bo-Kaap area for colorful homes and Cape Malay cooking.

OUTSIDE OF CAPE TOWN:
By all means embark on a guided Cape winelands tour. Franschhoek, about a 45 minute drive from Cape Town, is the most interesting of the winelands towns but Stellenbosch and Paarl have their own appeal and there are superb wineries everywhere. Enjoy lunch with a view at Delaire Graff Estate between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The Cape Fold mountains – which dominate much of the winelands – together with the vineyards and signature Cape Dutch architecture make this a picturesque area well worth visiting even for visitors who are not at all into wines.

Take an uber or taxi ride from Cape Town to Kalk Bay village for lunch at the Brass Bell; or include it in your touring arrangements.

Visit Constantia Valley near Cape Town for some of the oldest wineries in the area, such as the imposing Groot Constantia; be sure to leave some time for the Norval Foundation Art Gallery, opposite the US Embassy.

Take a trip to the 12 Apostles Hotel for sunset drinks – it’s the perfect spot to see the sun settle over the Atlantic Ocean.

SOUTHERN CAPE (HERMANUS AREA)
Travel to Gansbaai for shark diving. Presently, the great white sharks are not around in big numbers, but there are several other resident shark species to be seen. The nearby town of Hermanus is known for the ‘marine big five’ which include the South African Fur Seal, the Southern Right Whale, African Penguin, Great White Shark and Bottle-nosed Dolphin. The town of Hermanus becomes a mecca of whale-watching when the Southern Right Whales are around, from about June through November. October is whale month so schedule your visit then, if you want to be sure of seeing these giant creatures – and their little ones – breach or simply frolic around.

TABLE MOUNTAIN AND OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
Table Mountain dominates Cape Town in every way; it is the city’s signature natural feature and no visit to Cape Town is truly complete without involving the mountain in some way or other. While it is perfectly ok to travel to the summit of Table Mountain on the Cable Car, we would recommend adding at least one activity involving a hike on the lower slopes of the mountain – or all the way to the top.

We work with a simply fantastic hiking guide in Cape Town – Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers – for Table Mountain hiking and nature walks.

Lauren recommends doing a hike as one of the first things, after arriving in Cape Town. It really helps to ground you, it gets the cobwebs out after the long flights and helps you feel awake, alive and ready for the rest of your Cape Town stay. Lauren says that many guests who hike with her at the end of their trip tell her how they wish they’d done it at the beginning as they learned so much that was useful for the rest of their stay.

If you arrive sometime in the morning into Cape Town you could do an afternoon hike, or alternatively the next morning or afternoon. If you want to incorporate Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Lauren could take you around the gardens for an easy walk of 45 minutes to an hour to see the highlights. From there, you would then hike up to the contour path and over and back down to the gardens. This hike only goes one third to one quarter of the way up that (Eastern) side of the mountain so it is not intense but you would get an idea and feeling of the mountain and nature around. This generally takes 3-4 hours to complete.

Other options are:

Pipe Track:
A truly beautiful +/- 3 hour route (also only going one third of the way to the top of Table Mountain), very quiet and peaceful and with lots of interesting plants to see, touch & even taste along the way. The turn-around point is at a cave-like ‘Overhang’ where hikers spend a few minutes just taking in the views and enjoying a snack and drinks.

Lions Head:
An amazing +/- 3 hour route, adventurous and beautiful. The only drawback is that it can be busy with lots of people on it, particularly on Saturday and Sunday. On either of those days, be prepared to be picked up from your hotel really early (5:00 am) in order to avoid the foot traffic.

If you want to do something a bit more challenging, then the Platteklip Gorge hike is the least challenging of the hikes which take you all the way to the top of the mountain. Anybody who is moderately fit and without major mobility or other medical issues can do it. About 3 to 4 hours, from the base of the mountain to the summit. Platteklip is not the most scenic of the various hiking options, but a great hike nonetheless. Once it opens up (last third of the hike) there are some fabulous views. This hike is also extremely popular so again, an early start is advisable. It is mostly exposed to the sun so be prepared for that.

Experienced hikers may want to tackle Nursery Ravine or Skeleton Gorge (from Kirstenbosch) or India Venster. Skeleton Gorge is beautiful with many small ‘box ravine’ pockets, seemingly with their own micro-climate. The hike is well-protected from the elements including the sun, with long stretches through Afro-montane forest. It is a long hike, particularly if your final destination is the upper cable car station. India Venster demands a bit more in the way of strength and agility, and I probably wouldn’t advise it for first-timers. A fear of heights would be a disqualifier as well. Otherwise it is an absorbing, fun hike and you will look back on it with a great sense of achievement. I have personally done all of these hikes so feel free to call me or email me if you have any questions.

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Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

28th October 2021

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

Over the years we have enjoyed some of our best game-viewing and most memorable sightings in the Linyanti-Selinda-Kwando region of Northern Botswana. Huge concentrations of elephants, leopards mating, lions hunting, a cheetah kill, African painted dogs pretty much every time – we’ve seen it all in this area.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Wilderness Safaris’ Dumatau Camp in particular, has consistently remained high on the list of our favorite camps in Botswana. Set in an ecotone where several habitats intersect – in this case riverine bush and thickets, grassy floodplain and mopane woodland – the area is a haven for wildlife, particularly in the dry season from about June through October. The only time that we were disappointed with the quantity of animals there, was during an early December trip when the area had experienced significant early summer rainfall. This disperses the elephants which means that they are not congregated along the Linyanti River and hence not easy to see. Likewise, the thick bush makes game-viewing for smaller mammals problematic, as it is just downright impossible to see anything in the thickets. So our best advice is to visit Dumatau no sooner than June and no later than October, to maximize the game-viewing potential.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On our very first visit to Dumatau, one night during pre-dinner drinks around the (then) ground-level fireplace in front of the dining room, the mellow atmosphere was rudely shattered when a kudu burst out of the bush into a clearing on our right. Wide-eyed and frantic, it stared at us for a split-second and then scrambled around the fireplace, closely pursued by a female lion. It happened so quickly that we were frozen to the spot, looking at each other in disbelief. The kudu got away, but the incident was much discussed over dinner.

The following day, an afternoon game drive along the tree-line provided some excellent close up views of lions which were lying up at the base of an anthill. This particular pride consisted of three young males, three females and three young cubs. We marvelled at the close-up views, scrutinizing scars both old and new on the bluish-golden skin and trying to fathom the intent of the flat glare in the several sets of yellow eyes fixed on us.

From there we drove down to the Zibadianja Lagoon, where there were literally masses of elephants drinking at the waterside, one group changing places with another in what seemed like a carefully choreographed parade. More and more elephants would emerge from the trees, speeding up as they caught sight of the water. There was dust and water flying everywhere and with the sun setting in the background, it became a tableau of silhouettes against hazy, golden light. Very ‘Africa’.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

We stopped for a while at a hide overlooking the source of the Savuti Channel, identifying a variety of wading birds and watching a pod of hippopotamus, to use the currently popular collective term. As our guide had predicted, one of the hippos performed a maneuver which none of us had ever seen before: it rolled around completely from a standing position, flashing its short, stocky legs and pale pinkish belly. It was now late afternoon and the hippos were starting to stir, calling at each other in anticipation or preparation of emerging from the water for their nightly foraging.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

At around 10 pm most of the guests were again assembled around the open fire. Tim and Robin were the first ones to say good night, preparing to return to tent # 3. They declined an offer from one of the guides to accompany them to their tent. “We’ll be fine, it’s not far,” said Robin as they took their flashlight and started up the path. “That’s what the last nice couple said,” the guide joked. Because of the earlier activity in camp, a guide went ahead to check the path anyway. There was a pride of nine lions not 10 meters away, busy crossing the path, the males so big they had to duck under the balustrades. Watching the lions move away we all made mental notes never to decline an escorted walk back to one’s tent at night. When we later heard that Dumatau means ‘roar of the lion’, we were not surprised.

What can be said about Dumatau, can be said about Northern Botswana. Every trip we take there underscores our long-held opinion that it is one the best game-viewing destinations in Africa. On our best ever 10-day Botswana trip, Kathy and I saw close to 50 lions – twice seen hunting – once for buffalo and the other time for kudu. We observed leopards on three different occasions including one with the remains of an impala in a tree and another one with a youngster frolicking alongside. African wild dogs were likewise seen three times, once just seconds after they had taken down an impala; and cheetah twice, the latter sighting of a female knocking down and ‘delivering’ an impala to her five youngsters. She patiently waited in the shade until they had their fill, before she moved in and fed herself, keeping a wary lookout as the vultures started moving in. There were many other fantastic sightings including scores of elephants, magnificent sable antelope, a martial eagle on a fresh impala kill, an incredible scene at one of the camps with as many as 23 giraffe in one area, all staring at two cheetahs walking by; some superb night drives (including my first ever sighting of aardwolf ), and more.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On a recent trip (July 2021), Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and Christine spent a couple of nights at the newly rebuilt Dumatau Camp, now solidly in the premier/deluxe category. The first thing that strikes you on arrival at the new Dumatau is the magnificent main area and location overlooking the Linyanti River. The deck is large with multiple locations to take a seat and spend some time in between game drives looking for elephants to cross or observing anything that might come to get a drink of water. The three-sided bar is one of the focal points but there are so many different areas within the main area that it is hard to single any one of them out. The elongated deck which juts out into the water is also eye-catching and really stands out at night when it is lit by bonfire light. The rooms are equally breathtaking, very large and luxurious, private plunge pools, snack jars full of dried meat, personal coffee, and other amenities.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

In a nutshell, everything you ever wanted in a safari lodge and more. Elegant, exciting, fun to hang out in, an inviting bar plus several cozy, secluded corners for private dinners. You could spend three nights here without having two meals in the same spot. The variety of food, preparation and presentation were excellent and every bit the equal of several deluxe properties we had visited previously.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

The main pool is just a short walk from the main area on the elevated boardwalk. During the warmer months it would be an ideal place to relax and pass some time while reading a book, always with one eye towards the river lest you miss something. The gift/curio shop is just adjacent and the spa is a short stroll away.

Villa Maua

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

But beyond just being fun and exciting, we enjoyed the beautiful surroundings and the complete privacy. There was not a person or another boat to be seen or heard in any direction. We had miles and miles of river, marsh and lagoon all to ourselves. That is what makes the private concessions in northern Botswana so special. You just flat-out don’t have to deal with anything like the numbers of visitors and presence of other vehicles which often mar the experience in other more heavily visited safari destinations.

Photo by Wilderness Safaris

An interesting activity which we tried out for an hour or so is a launch or pontoon cruise. The vessel which takes up to 15 or so passengers is able to cruise along the Linyanti River comfortably and smoothly, either up or downstream from Dumatau, and is ideal for brunch or sundowner outings. In fact we were able to watch our chef prepare the food for us on a small open fire just behind us on the boat. We would encourage all our clients to try this activity at some time during their stay at Dumatau. The pontoon boat provides a safe and stable platform from which to view and photograph hippos and crocodiles, and it is perfect for observing elephants swimming across the river, fortunately a fairly frequent occurrence in the dry season.

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Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

15th October 2021

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

Ask any African wildlife photographer about their favorite animal to photograph and you might be surprised to see how high zebras rank. These peculiar white and black striped mammals are among the most recognizable and most photographed of African animals. Get a few of them together in the same frame, add some action and maybe some dust for added drama – and let the fun begin.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Few places in Africa are quite as well located as Leroo La Tau in central Botswana, to realize one’s ultimate zebra photography scenario. The appeal of this Kalahari camp is closely intertwined with the enigmatic Boteti River which flows right below the camp. As many as 30,000 zebras annually migrate between the Makgadikgadi Pans and the Okavango Delta, many passing through this area. In the dry season from about June through November the Boteti is one of the only permanent water sources on their way, and acts like a magnet for thirsty zebras.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau is built on cliffs some thirty feet above the banks of the Boteti, offering a vantage point over the river and the Makgadikgadi Pans to the east. The best place in camp to make the most of the zebra migration – and to capture photographs of all the other animals and birds attracted to the water – is the camp’s enclosed hide, from where you have an eye-level view across the Boteti. A bunch of zebras all lining up to drink at the same time, two young stallions standing up on their hind legs, biting and kicking – the photo opportunities come hard and fast.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

The Boteti River is the main outflow of the Okavango Delta, collecting the water that flows past Maun and from there it meanders about 150 miles to Lake Xau on the extreme south-western edge of the great Makgadikgadi salt pans. While it is currently flowing, that wasn’t always the case. For a period of about 20 years, ending in 2009, the Boteti had largely dried up, with just a few waterholes in the riverbed which offered refuge to a small pod of landlocked hippos, together with some crocodiles which became completely terrestrial, making dens in riverbank ‘caves’ downriver from the lodge.

For now, the river again provides a lifeline for the wide range of wildlife which inhabit the arid Makgadikgadi national park and is a critical link in the spectacular zebra migration. From December through March – essentially the wet months in the Kalahari – the zebras seek out the nutritious grasses surrounding the Makgadikgadi Pans. During this time there is a shallow layer of water over the salt pans, which attract a large number of migrating birds such as flamingoes. All the more reason to spend some time around the pans then.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Around March or so – depending on the timing of the rain – the zebras edge towards the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park before setting off towards the Okavango Delta and Moremi Game Reserve. Their next stop: the Boteti – and Leroo La Tau.

On our most recent visit in July, we reached the camp after a flight of about 40 minutes (just slightly longer than the average Botswana light air transfer), followed by a 20-minute drive from the airstrip to the camp.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

We found the main area to be very appealing. It is two stories high and has a well-placed fire pit right on the river. The lodge features twelve luxurious thatched and glass-fronted suites with en-suite bathrooms, each unit raised on a wooden platform overlooking the Boteti River Valley below. The rooms are well spread out, spacious and have killer views over the river. The main lounge and dining area, with its inviting wooden and thatch finish, is a great spot to spend some time relaxing at the bar or enjoying the excellent food offerings. Alternatively you can lounge around the swimming pool or enjoy the views from the game-viewing hide built into the bank of the river.

On a previous trip, we visited Leroo La Tau during the ‘Green Season’ which runs from December to March, when game-viewing isn’t quite as productive as it is during the dry months. Even so, we enjoyed some good sightings of kudu, lion and elephant, amongst others. In fact, we had some great views of a black-maned Kalahari lion in his prime.

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

After dinner at Leroo La Tau on that visit, members of the staff entertained guests with a singing and dancing performance. This does not happen every night, so we were quite pleased to be treated to several traditional songs, done in a sweetly harmonious fashion. I think we were all struck by the wonderful attitude of the staff at this camp, everybody smiling all the time!

Prospective visitors would do well to schedule three nights here, and to take a full day trip (with picnic lunch) to Nxai Pan, among others to check out the beautiful Baines’ Baobabs site. The excursion starts in the early morning with a picnic lunch to be enjoyed while out exploring the salt pans.

Legendary Lodge

Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

In addition to game drives – and depending on the water level – boating trips on the Boteti are also provided. Optional cultural excursions can be arranged to Khumaga Village as well as the previously mentioned day trips to Nxai Pan and Baines Baobabs (for guests staying a minimum of three nights). For those looking for a truly unique experience, the camp can arrange a sleep out under the stars on the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

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Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

7th October 2021

Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

Over dinner some years ago at the River Club upstream from Vic Falls, I was gently corrected about a comment I had made about the Zambezi River. “It is the Zambezi. Not the Zambezi River”. So it is. This most African of rivers makes its way all the way from far northern Zambia, right on the border of the Congo, down-stream from west to east, to eventually spill into the Indian Ocean some 1,600 miles from its point of origin. Having carved its way through some of Africa’s most spectacular places such as Victoria Falls, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi.

Photo Sausage Tree

Sausage Tree Camp

This is where I found myself on the last day of July, on my way to the western portion of the Lower Zambezi National Park, where we would have brief overnight stops at Sausage Tree and Chiawa Camps. Appropriately, we arrived at Sausage Tree by boat, after an entertaining 20-minute cruise upstream on the Zambezi, from the jetty at Jeki Airstrip. Practically never out of sight of at least one, sometimes more than one pod of hippo. Just giving us the intense hippo stare as we moved past them.

Photo Sausage Tree

The rooms at Sausage Tree were beautiful and spacious. More like suites than rooms, they are luxurious custom safari tents with massive gauze windows and sliding doors, with more than adequate fresh air circulating. Nearly hidden from one another, and shaded by mature sausage and mahogany trees, the tents are cool, private sanctuaries to return to for an afternoon siesta or good night’s rest.

Photo Sausage Tree

Sleeping only 18 guests, Sausage Tree Camp offers a civilized approach to a true bush experience with lavish attention to detail. The central dining and bar area is fronted by an enormous teak deck overlooking the Zambezi. The 25 meter Lap-pool is situated right on the edge of the riverbank, under shading mahogany trees with outstanding views.

Photo Potato Bush

Canoeing at Sausage Tree Camp

Our afternoon activity, a canoeing outing with head guide Ryan Wilmot, was a highlight of the entire Zambia trip. I had a comfortable seat in the sturdy Canadian canoe, I stayed totally dry throughout, and did not have to do any paddling. The camp practice is to have just one guest per canoe, with the paddling done by Ryan (my canoe) and two other canoeing specialist guides, in the other two canoes.

Photo Sausage Tree

The canoeing was simply a fantastic experience. From beginning to end, participants traverse breathtakingly beautiful surroundings, with a profusion of birds, lots of hippos of course, elephants, buffaloes, impala, baboons and monkeys – and more.

It was exciting and a little intense at times, but I always felt safe. Clearly, the highly experienced guides were firmly in control. We did have a couple of relatively close encounters with some hippos, including one brief ‘mock’ charge. Even so, nothing too alarming, just enervating.

Photo Chiawa

Chiawa Camp

It took only 15 minutes or so – again by boat, further upstream – from Sausage Tree to Chiawa Camp. Almost predictably, we could not get to our rooms along the regular path because of elephants in camp. It happened on my previous visit as well. I hope to visit Chiawa one more time before I finally put away my binoculars. Maybe then I can complete a hat trick of having an elephant diversion on arrival!

Photo Chiawa

As I told camp manager Simon Douglas when we made our way around the front of the rooms (on the river-side), I always give extra credit to a camp if there are animals around on arrival. Animals which prevent you from getting to your room? A double gold star.

Legendary Lodge

Photo Chiawa

My room #7 at Chiawa was even bigger and better equipped than when Kathy and I spent a couple of days there a few years ago. Same great views over the Zambezi, same great range of activities (game drives, boating, canoeing, fishing and walking), same superb hospitality and friendliness from everyone whom you meet.

Our stay at Chiawa started with a surprise lunch served while drifting down the Zambezi, on a boat. A three course meal with perfectly roasted chicken, salad and a dessert. Simply a delightful experience.

Villa Maua

Photo Chiawa

In the afternoon we did a game drive which started slow but ended with a bang. It started with seeing lots of elephants, then a female leopard, followed by two female lions and on the way back an exceptional sighting: two males leopards getting into a territorial spat, the older, more powerful male chasing the younger one high into a tree. Once the dominant male got back onto the ground, he gave chase to an inquisitive hyena which hastily beat the retreat.

Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane

Photo Chiawa

That evening, we were entertained with a few of Chiawa choir’s favorite songs, and then enjoyed our final dinner on safari, in the Chitenge upstairs. It felt cozy and private – and special.

On our second but last day in Zambia, we were up early for Chiawa’s signature fireside breakfast. Yoghurt and fruit ‘parfait’, cheese, cold meats, peppadew, hard-boiled eggs, toast over the coals, and oats porridge from a potjie. That pretty much sets you up for the day.

Photo Old Mondoro

Old Mondoro

Just after 6 am we took off on a 45-minute boat ride to Old Mondoro for a site inspection. Old Mondoro appears to be an excellent choice for a typical small (5 room) Zambian bush camp. The rooms are constructed of treated reeds and canvas, with enough space and with regular toilets and showers (hot water any time). The camp has an exceptionally appealing dining/lounge area which is open to the river as well as to the rear, facing the bush. There is almost always something going on inside the camp in terms of wildlife.

Photo Old Mondoro

And so it was on the day we were there. Several elephants were just walking into the camp as we arrived. This is something which gathers momentum in the August-Sept-Oct time frame when the winter thorn trees (Albidas) start to drop their nutritious pods, much sought after by elephants as well as by impala, kudus, & baboons.

Photo Old Mondoro

The camp manager took us around and showed us a couple of rooms along the river on the ‘left’ side of camp, looking from the river to the north. We particularly liked rooms #4 and #5 and those are the ones we’d recommend for our guests, in future.

An African painted dog kill

Eventually, after a cup of tea, we started to make our way to the Jeki airstrip to connect with a charter back to Lusaka. Along the way, Pearl spotted the same pack of 23 African painted dogs which we had seen three days earlier, upon our arrival in the Lower Zambezi. They appeared to be in a hunting mode, all of them walking in the same direction with their heads down and their ears back. And then – action! The dogs accelerated as if one, running through the woodland at speed, in pursuit of a group of impala which we could just barely see in the distance.

And then the unexpected happened. A troop of baboons panicked and got in the way of the hunting painted dogs. Which resulted in a disaster befalling one young male baboon which was grabbed by one of the running dogs. Right in front of us and in a rather graphic and shocking manner, the unfortunate young baboon was torn apart by about four to five African painted dogs. In a manner of minutes there wasn’t much left at all, of the hapless creature. Rather an unexpected and unusual turn of events. We had one last interesting sighting when we had a brief view of a leopard, quite close to Jeki Airstrip.

Our great Zambian adventure ended with an uneventful flight back to Lusaka. We had to spend the last night there at the pleasant Latitude 15 hotel, await the results of a Covid test, and then we would head out the following morning. To Cape Town in my case – to climb Table Mountain along the India Venster route – and back to the USA for the other two participants on the trip.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

1st October 2021

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia
OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia

Off to the Lower Zambezi

Every once in a while, I walk into a safari camp which captivates me from the word go. Most recently, it was Tusk and Mane’s Kutali Camp on a small island in the Zambezi River in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. After missing an entire season due to the pandemic, the camp had been experiencing good occupancy lately and we arrived in what was a full camp, in July. Not surprisingly, there was a buzz in the air. Lots of smiles all round, a sense of relief and a growing realization that things were going to be ok – soon. All was not lost. Pristine wilderness areas like this one would once again be hosting appreciative visitors from all over the world.

Kutali Tent credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

It’s really easy to like or even love Kutali. The camp has the most perfect setting right on the edge of the Zambezi – in one direction – and a simply fantastic forest of winterthorn trees in every other direction. All throughout the day from first light until the last bird calls fade away after sunset, the forest takes on a different look and feel. Mysterious, somber, brooding – its mood changes as the sunlight comes and goes. The Lower Zambezi is known for magnificent stands of winterthorn and other trees, but few can match the exquisite forest which pervades Kutali with a little bit of magic and tons of atmosphere.

Luke and Kyle credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans personify Tusk and Mane, their safari company operating in one of Africa’s top safari destinations, Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Kyle and Luke are both young, personable and full of energy and at the vanguard of a much needed ‘back to the basics’ safari philosophy. For them, it is all about what happens outside the tent. They are passionate about many things, but mostly about the wilderness itself. They want to take you back in time to those legendary ‘Hemingway’ escapades in a part of Africa where you can reconnect with nature and replenish your senses.

Tusk and Mane

Tusk and Mane is unapologetically focused on delivering a ‘back to nature’ wilderness adventure. They are not about cut flowers in the room, elaborate spa menus or 2,000 bottle wine cellars. That doesn’t mean that you will be slumming it. To the contrary. Their camps are simple yet comfortable. Old style luxury camping at its finest. A setting where visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, experiencing it under the stars, around the campfire and on every activity.

Kutali tent and forest credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch, a vastly experienced and accomplished professional safari guide, has worked as a guide, in camp management and in a training capacity in several African countries including Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and Uganda, over the last 15 years. He explains his decision to settle in Zambia, as follows: “Zambia is an incredibly wild country with diversity I can’t get enough of. I have chosen to move my life here permanently to show those who are interested, an untouched wilderness where you can still picture what it was like walking the banks of the Zambezi in the 1800s. It is truly a childhood dream coming true”.

Kyle’s friend and business partner Luke Evans is on the same wavelength. Born in Zambia, he literally grew up in safari camps in the Kafue, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks, where his parents spent many years in the safari business. Luke – who is trilingual, speaking Chi Nyanja, English and German – has worked with several safari operators including Robin Pope, Sanctuary and Sausage Tree. His forte is having been involved in every facet of the safari business from guiding, to camp management, to marketing, to reservations, to accounting. Luke summarizes the essence of Tusk and Mane as follows: “Tusk and Mane is about a simple but pure safari experience tailored to all the best aspects of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Ours is a “back to roots” approach built around a great Zambian team, excellent guiding, ice cold drinks, hot bucket showers, comfortable beds, good homemade food and our passion for this great Zambian wilderness”.

Getting to and experiencing Kutali Camp

It took us a bit less than an hour and a half by air, from Busanga in the Kafue to Jeki Airstrip which serves a few safari camps located on or close to the Zambezi, in the central and eastern part of the Lower Zambezi National Park. There are daily scheduled flights from Lusaka, Mfuwe and Livingstone to and from Jeki airstrip from June through October, which constitutes the high season. Outside these months, seat rates are available. Compared to many remote bush camps, the transfer time to Kutali and Chula is short – no more than 30 minutes. It is easy to combine a few days here with a stay elsewhere on the Zambian circuit.

Chula camp dinner under the stars credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Having arrived around 10:00 am we were collected by Kyle and Luke and started to make our way to Kutali Camp. This being the Lower Zambezi, it suddenly got really exciting as we bumped into a pack of more than 20 African painted dogs, then denning in the area. Several of them were interacting with each other, and at one stage almost all of them got up and relocated to a shadier spot.

A little bit later we made it to Kutali Camp which would be our home for the night. As I had noted earlier, the camp has a great setting underneath a particularly dense stand of Faidherbia albida (Winterthorn) trees, and overlooks the Zambezi River.

Elephants, buffaloes, and even leopards are often seen around the campsite, and of course there are hippos all over the place at night, when they leave their Zambezi home to forage.

Legendary Lodge

Chula camp at night credit Tusk & Mane

Later in the afternoon we took a boat ride upstream on the Zambezi, to the site of Chula, Tusk & Mane’s other small tented camp. This camp is located in yet another gorgeous spot, just to the west of the well-known Old Mondoro camp. That evening we experienced a beautiful sunset, watching in awe as the golden light faded over the mountains of the Zambia escarpment.

Dinner table at Chula credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Dinner at Kutali camp was memorable in more ways than one. A safari camp really comes alive at night just before and during dinner. This magical evening was no exception. Right off the bat, we were happy to see some familiar faces: Phil and Tyrone from Musekese and their significant others were in camp! We were thrilled to see a guest from Switzerland there, whom we had first met at Musekese as well. A mini-reunion! As is often the case this time of the day, we got word of some other good sightings. The African painted dogs had been sighted again, as well as a leopard.

Villa Maua

Sitting around the fire I caught bits and pieces of several conversations, the topics ranging from wildlife photography to the (then) imminent Zambia general election, the rapidly rising number and rate of Covid vaccinations in Zambia, and the weekly flow pattern of the Zambezi. Which, as you may not need to be told, goes up and down in tandem with the excess amount of water released from Lake Kariba to operate the turbines which generate electricity. Less on the weekends, more during the week.

Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane

The night was typical in some ways with friendly, like-minded people surrounding me, all imbued to one degree or another with a love of animals, nature and the wilderness. In other ways, it was a unique, never to be repeated event: making new acquaintances who may become new friends, acquiring new knowledge and experience, taking photographs and making memories which may last a lifetime. Finding myself in a true wilderness area where I’ve never been before and judging it to be so appealing and special that I am already making plans for a longer return stay. This, of course, is what an African safari is all about and what makes it such a satisfying vacation.

We made an early start the following morning to the western part of the Lower Zambezi National Park. All the while, driving through some beautiful, atmospheric winterthorn forests. From August to October is when the mature winterthorn pods start to drop, attracting numerous elephants and other wildlife into the camp sites.

Our game drive to Jeki was on the quiet side but we did see quite a few elephants, lots of impala, waterbuck, later some zebra and close to the airstrip a leopard – briefly. We stopped for tea alongside the beautiful Discovery channel before we headed to the jetty for our boat ride to our next camp.

Kutali tent and campsite credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kutali and Chula Camps

Kutali Camp is located on Kulefu Island which means ‘far away place’. It is a classic winterthorn forest Zambezi valley camp which offers excellent canoeing and walking opportunities, yet it is just a brief river crossing away from the mainland for game drives.

I quickly made myself comfortable in one of the five square guest tents at Kutali. The rooms are basic but comfortable with hot water bucket showers available on demand, and proper flush toilets in the adjacent, enclosed bathroom. I quite liked the gauze netting which provides protection – but allows air to flow freely – when the solid canvas ‘walls’ are rolled up.

Chula – which means frog – is located on Discovery Island and is Tusk & Mane’s nearest site to Jeki Airfield. They describe the island as being like Jurassic Park – full of surprises, with several hidden lagoons and open dambos. The game-viewing right on Discovery Island is excellent and Kyle and Luke have seen leopards, lions, hyenas, buffalo herds and lots of elephants there, as well as several other species.

Chula tent with Natal Mahogany tree credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

The atmosphere on Chula is unique and it even looks different with an abundance of Natal mahogany trees and sandy beaches. The perfect contrast to Kutali camp.

All the tents used in both Kutali and Chula have:

Ensuite individual bathrooms – accessible without leaving the tent.
Bucket shower, flushing toilet and wash basin with a mirror.
Two comfortable beds with top quality linen provided. The two beds can be joined to form doubles on request.
Two bedside tables with solar lamps/reading lights.
A safe box to store valuables.
Two comfortable camp chairs.
Two folding shelf systems for clothes.
Complimentary laundry service.

The campsites at Kutali and Chula feature a bar area in the shade, a comfortable seating area under canvas and a well stocked, refrigerated bar. There is almost always a campfire going and as we were to find out, the food was more than good – and wholesome.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

We would recommend a minimum 4-night stay split between Kutali & Chula Camp. This will enable visitors to make the most of the wide variety of activities on offer in the Lower Zambezi National Park. A stay at Kutali and/or Chula combines well with Musekese Camp in Kafue National Park and there is a long-stay offer in place, for spending 4 nights each in both locations.

Tusk and Mane

Tusk & Mane activities

The Tusk and Mane experience is diverse and exciting, with much of the game viewing done on foot or from the canoes. Game drives, boat cruises and fishing are on offer as well, making for an exciting and adventurous experience..

The Zambezi is central to what Tusk & Mane is all about and it features prominently in the activities on offer. Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Canoeing

On a previous visit to the area, we went out on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes. I would highly recommend this activity for all visitors: it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours.

Dambo View Tusk & Mane

From Kutali, Kyle Branch leads all canoe safaris. The back-up paddlers, who pilot each canoe with guests, are experienced Tusk and Mane staff. Kyle and the canoe team will quietly paddle you through any of the three incredibly beautiful channels that break away from the main Zambezi river. Depending on what the guests want to experience on the day and the duration they had in mind, the canoe safari route would traverse the Inkalange, Chifungulu or Discovery channel as well as parts of the main river. Each channel is of a different length with different, yet equally diverse habitats alongside.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Walking

The walking safaris are done in the early morning starting at 6:00 am to finish up before the worst heat of the day. The Tusk & Mane walking safaris are relaxed, maintaining a comfortable pace adjusted to suit the slowest guest. Walks usually only cover a few miles with frequent stops for scenery, birds and animals. Guests are given a thorough safety briefing and orientation before each walk. In the interests of safety, participants will need to be reasonably fit and mobile.

Your professional guide will be carrying a first aid kit, radio and additional water. Guests will each have a water bottle in a custom-made sling for easy carrying. The group is accompanied by an armed Wildlife Police Officer from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife. He walks in front with a powerful rifle, together with the professional guide and protects the group in the unlikely event of an aggressive animal encounter.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Boating & Fishing

Boating provides a stable platform for photography from a different perspective, from water to land, with an ideal green backdrop. The river banks are often the scene of action of one kind or another, ranging from hippos rushing headlong into the water to crocodiles staying put. Sometimes allowing you to get really close. On this trip I managed a close up shot of a crocodile’s eye in just such a scenario. A boat trip is also ideal for bird photography with multiple opportunities to shoot birds in flight, and many species that like to hug the edges of the rivers like the waders, skimmers, ducks, cormorants, kingfishers and many others.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Fishing can either be done as a stand-alone activity or combined with boating. In the Lower Zambezi fishing is available throughout the season from May to November. The last two months of the season are the best as this is when the Tigerfish are most active. The fishing is done on a strict ‘catch and release’ basis with every attempt being made to ensure the best chance of survival, in order to maintain and grow fish populations in the Lower Zambezi. All equipment is provided: quality Tigerfish, Vundu, and Bream rods and reels, along with all the tackle and spinners/lures needed. All that is missing is you, a little bit of luck and lots of patience.

Mike Sutherland Tusk & Mane

What makes Tusk & Mane special?

Few places in Africa offer as varied an experience as the Lower Zambezi and all the more so in the Tusk & Mane locations. Guests can experience the Zambezi River from the winterthorn forests on remote islands, all the way north through several habitats into the hills of the Zambia escarpment for the best of both worlds.

From the various Tusk & Mane camp sites you can experience the wildlife rich and diverse areas of the Lower Zambezi either by foot, canoe, vehicle or boat. The safari can be as long as you wish and the activities can be totally tailored to suit you and your party, irrespective of size or make-up. At all times you will be in a classic tented safari setting, exactly how they used to be. With a campfire, bucket showers and one star spangled night after another.

The Tusk and Mane environment offers the ultimate safari activity mix: walking, canoeing, day & night drives, birding, fishing and boating. All in an area where you are not likely to see another vehicle or person, or at most a handful. The camps are small and the experience is personal, with no more than eight guests. A party can opt to pay for as few as five persons and obtain exclusive use of the camp. The camp sites are all in very private areas and a good distance away from where other camps do activities. Which means that you can look forward to experiencing Africa – your way.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI