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Kalahari

Zimbabwe & Botswana special offers – low-demand season 2023-2024

12th October 2023

Zimbabwe & Botswana low-demand season special offers – 2023/2024

We’ve got several special offers available for the coming low-demand season in both Zimbabwe and Botswana. The specials are available for a range of properties in both countries, from December (in some instances November 2023) through to March and April 2024. For a few camps the discounts extend right until the end of May. 

Zimbabwe

The best all around deals are available for the Imvelo Safaris camps in Hwange – namely Camelthorn, Bomani, Nehimba and Jozibanini. Here’s the lowdown:  

*Stay three nights/Pay two nights.
*Stay seven nights/Pay five nights.
*Children 18 and under stay free when sharing with an adult. Up to two children per adult. 
*No single supplement. 
*A free private vehicle will be included for groups of four or more.

Add a couple of nights in Victoria Falls, put it all together and you’re looking at a nine night/ten day fly-in safari at a price of around $5,200 per person sharing, with three nights at Nehimba and four at Bomani, and two nights at Pioneers Lodge in Victoria Falls.  

This price is valid for 1 January 2024 to 30 April 2024, and from 1 December 2024 to 31 December 2024. The rates will be extended to 31 May 2024 at Camelthorn and Nehimba, and to 31 July 2024 at Jozibanini.

What is included:

*2 nights in Victoria Falls on bed & breakfast basis
*7 nights on safari at two safari camps in central and southern Hwange
*All meals, soft drinks, beers, wines & local spirits on safari
*Bed & breakfast accommodation in Victoria Falls
*Laundry included at safari camps
*All road transfers and two scheduled light air transfers from and back to Victoria Falls  
*A sundowner cruise on the Zambezi
*A private guided tour of Victoria Falls
*Twice daily game viewing activities at both safari properties
*A Ngamo community experience, a Community Rhino Conservation Initiative (CRCI) talk and rhino viewing at Bomani and Camelthorn

Excluded:

*Gratuities
*Hwange National Park entry fee of $20.00 per person per day 
*Rhino Conservation and Community Levy – $150 per person
*Commercial flights from the USA to and back from VFA (Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe).

Safari notes:

*The CRCI rhino sanctuary has become an incredible guest experience at Bomani and Camelthorn and is available year-round.
*Mack Air has economical charter flight rates into and out of Hwange year-round (including the low demand season), which makes getting around a lot easier and more affordable than private charters.

About Hwange

Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination. This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 40,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, often two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and African painted dogs.

The safari experience in Hwange is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya. One difference: Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally attractive roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other birds. Hwange is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.

Botswana in summer

There are few destinations in Southern Africa with quite the same appeal as Botswana in the low-demand season from December through the end of March. Even in years of good rainfall – not likely to be the case this coming summer – the precipitation is relatively low, hardly ever more than four inches average per month.  Most importantly, no part of the region is subject to the torrential rainfall which all too frequently affects the South African lowveld area (including much of the Kruger Park), from January through March, caused by tropical cyclones.  

With some rain – and the cooling effect of the cloudy weather – northern Botswana and the Kalahari (though still warm to hot in the afternoons) are much more pleasant than in the months of October and November. With even limited rainfall, the dry, dusty veld conditions seemingly change overnight, bursting with bright green vegetation, flowers and rich colors.

Conditions are ideal for photography. Beautifully soft morning and afternoon light. Crisp, clean air with minimal haze, and absolutely gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, almost always with some clouds around for added drama and color. I took some of my best ever leopard photographs in the Jao concession in Northern Botswana in March some years ago. Likewise in the Kwara area and at Duba in the northern Okavango Delta on two other February/March trips. Leopards, cheetahs, African painted dogs, giraffes, zebras – in perfect light, game drive after game drive.    

Include a few days in the Kalahari at Nxai Pan and discover an area simply teeming with life during the summer months when thousands of zebras migrate onto the open pans, in search of the fresh, emerging vegetation. Never too far behind? The impressive black-maned lions of the Kalahari and cheetahs clambering onto anthills or tree stumps on the lookout for springbok, steenbok or impala. In the summer months, there’s usually good numbers of big-tusked elephant bulls around, scattered groups of buffaloes and a variety of antelopes and abundant giraffes in the woodlands. On previous low-demand season trips to Northern Botswana we’ve gotten lucky with African painted dogs on several occasions, and there’s always a chance of seeing brown hyenas and African honey badgers.  

One of the best low-demand season offers for Botswana – available from January to March 2024 – is a “stay 8 nights, pay for 6 nights” deal from Desert & Delta at a price of less than $5,000 per person, including all internal charter flights from and back to Maun. The offer includes a 3-night stay at Leroo La Tau camp in the Kalahari. It is possible to include Chobe Game Lodge as well. This is what we would recommend:

*Two nights at Camp Okavango or Xugana Island Lodge. These typical Okavango Delta water camps offer the ultimate in relaxation in the heart of the Delta with unmatched walking, mokoro and boating activities.
*Three nights at Camp Moremi or Camp Xakanaxa. Here, on the edge of the Moremi Game reserve, guests can enjoy the perfect combination of prolific game viewing and motorized boat excursions into the Delta’s papyrus-choked channels exploring beautiful lagoons, small palm-fringed islands and patches of floodplain.
*Three nights at Leroo La Tau inclusive of a Nxai Pan day trip, a cultural experience and excellent photography opportunities along the Boteti River Valley.

This coming summer may be one of the best opportunities in many years to visit Botswana during the low demand season. With fewer travelers in the region, visitors will enjoy what is already a remote wilderness area, even more. For more details, please call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 during normal business hours, Monday to Friday, or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

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Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

15th October 2021

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

Ask any African wildlife photographer about their favorite animal to photograph and you might be surprised to see how high zebras rank.  These peculiar white and black striped mammals are among the most recognizable and most photographed of African animals.  Get a few of them together in the same frame, add some action and maybe some dust for added drama – and let the fun begin.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Few places in Africa are quite as well located as Leroo La Tau in central Botswana, to realize one’s ultimate zebra photography scenario.  The appeal of this Kalahari camp is closely intertwined with the enigmatic Boteti River which flows right below the camp.   As many as 30,000 zebras annually migrate between the Makgadikgadi Pans and the Okavango Delta, many passing through this area. In the dry season from about June through November the  Boteti is one of the only permanent water sources on their way, and acts like a magnet for thirsty zebras.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau is built on cliffs some thirty feet above the banks of the Boteti,  offering a vantage point over  the river and the Makgadikgadi Pans to the east.  The best place in camp to make the most of the zebra migration – and to capture photographs of all the other animals and birds attracted to the water – is the camp’s enclosed hide, from where you have an eye-level view across the Boteti.  A bunch of zebras all lining up to drink at the same time, two young stallions standing up on their hind legs, biting and kicking – the photo opportunities come hard and fast. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

The Boteti River is the main outflow of the Okavango Delta, collecting the water that flows past Maun and from there it meanders about 150 miles to Lake Xau on the extreme south-western edge of the great Makgadikgadi salt pans.  While it is currently flowing, that wasn’t always the case.  For a period of about 20 years, ending in 2009, the Boteti had largely dried up,  with just a few waterholes in the riverbed which offered refuge to a small pod of landlocked hippos, together with some crocodiles which became completely terrestrial, making dens in riverbank ‘caves’ downriver from the lodge.


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For now, the river again provides a lifeline for the wide range of wildlife which inhabit the arid Makgadikgadi national park and is a critical link in the spectacular zebra migration.  From December through March – essentially the wet months in the Kalahari – the  zebras seek out the nutritious grasses surrounding the Makgadikgadi Pans.  During this time there is a shallow layer of water over the salt pans, which attract a large number of migrating birds such as flamingoes.  All the more reason to spend some time around the pans then.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Around March or so – depending on the timing of the rain – the zebras edge towards the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park before setting off towards the Okavango Delta and  Moremi Game Reserve.  Their next stop:  the Boteti – and Leroo La Tau.   

On our most recent visit in July, we reached the camp after a flight of about 40 minutes (just slightly longer than the average Botswana light air transfer), followed by a 20-minute drive from the airstrip to the camp.  


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

We found the main area to be very appealing.  It is two stories high and has a well-placed fire pit right on the river.  The lodge features twelve luxurious thatched and glass-fronted suites with en-suite bathrooms, each unit raised on a wooden platform overlooking the Boteti River Valley below. The rooms are well spread out, spacious and have killer views over the river.  The main lounge and dining area, with its inviting wooden and thatch finish, is a great spot to spend some time relaxing at  the bar or enjoying the excellent food offerings. Alternatively you can lounge around the swimming pool or enjoy the views from the game-viewing hide built into the bank of the river.


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On a previous trip, we visited Leroo La Tau during the ‘Green Season’ which runs from December to March, when game-viewing isn’t quite as productive as it is during the dry months.   Even so, we enjoyed some good sightings of kudu, lion and elephant, amongst others.  In fact, we had some great views of a black-maned Kalahari lion in his prime. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

After dinner at Leroo La Tau on that visit, members of the staff entertained guests with a singing and dancing performance. This does not happen every night, so we were quite pleased to be treated to several traditional songs, done in a sweetly harmonious fashion. I think we were all struck by the wonderful attitude of the staff at this camp, everybody smiling all the time!

Prospective visitors would do well to schedule three nights here, and to take a full day trip (with picnic lunch) to Nxai Pan, among others to check out the beautiful Baines’ Baobabs site.  The excursion starts in the early morning with a picnic lunch to be enjoyed while out exploring the salt pans.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

In addition to game drives – and depending on the water level –  boating trips on the Boteti are also provided. Optional cultural excursions can be arranged to Khumaga Village as well as the previously mentioned day trips to Nxai Pan and Baines Baobabs (for guests staying a minimum of three nights). For those looking for a truly unique experience, the camp can arrange a sleep out under the stars on the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 2

5th March 2021

Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 2


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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 2

In Setswana, Tswalu means a ‘new beginning’ and under the stewardship of the Oppenheimer family, the aim is to deliver exactly that: a fresh era of hope for the people and wildlife of one of South Africa’s last great wilderness areas. 

The family took over responsibility for the reserve in 1998, continuing the vision of the late Stephen Boler, whose dream it was to return the area to its former state. Since then, their commitment to conservation has seen indigenous species re-introduced, and real strides made towards the restoration of the Kalahari,  undoing many years of neglect.


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Tswalu is conservation-in-progress. Damage caused by unsustainable farming endeavours is slowly receding, with fences and structures having been removed, and natural processes allowed to run their course.  

The results have been truly spectacular as we – and our guests – have been fortunate to observe over the last several years.  Each visit reveals a new facet of the Kalahari experience, adds to our knowledge of animal behavior and adaptation, and makes us even more fond of this special place.


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Cheetahs ahead

After a bit of down-time on our second day at Tswalu, we resumed our search for the Kalahari wildlife around 5:00 pm. Not long after, we found ourselves tracking a small family group of cheetahs. A female and three young cubs around three  months old. Initially, they proved difficult to locate, so our tracker William jumped out of the car to try to locate them on foot, while our guide Barry took us along a more distant road, checking to see if the cheetahs had crossed over it, at any point.  

Sanctuary Retreats


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Not long after, William radioed us that he had located the cheetahs, walking towards a line of dunes.  The female was constantly moving, having spotted William on foot, so the developing scenario was difficult to photograph. The female just would not settle down long enough for us to get a good photograph of her and the cubs, together.  Even so, I succeeded in making a few decent captures because the cubs were curious about our presence, and came  right up to the vehicle to check us out.  


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We discover a bat-eared fox den

Our last sighting of the day was just as memorable.  Just as the sun was going down, we spotted a pair of bat-eared foxes with their three tiny pups – barely a few weeks old. The light wasn’t great but we nonetheless got some good looks and captured a few pics of the tiny pups.   They looked very doglike with tiny ears and short little snouts, nothing like their long-eared and long-nosed  parents.  Soon after, it was time to take a break for sundowners on the crest of a dune.  From where we were parked, we had the most amazing views over the Kalahari landscapes, aglow in the late afternoon light.  It was one of the few places we’d ever been to, from where one can observe a noticeable curvature of the earth.


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The following day, again in the late afternoon, we returned to the bat-eared fox den site.  This time around, I was able to get the shots I had missed the previous day. Well lit, sharp photos of the female bat-eared fox with first one and then two of her little pups with her. Priceless.


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Of meerkats and black rhinos

The following morning our objective was to station ourselves at a habituated meerkat den as they woke up and emerged from the den at first light.

A few minutes before any sun rays actually hit the spot, the first two of the seven adult meerkats in the downsized ‘Rockstar’ colony of 7 adults and 5 babies, peered out from the burrow.   Soon enough the entire family was there.  At least initially a sentinel could be seen keeping a sharp lookout to see if conditions were safe.


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For the first thirty minutes or so the entire group was clustered around the main den site, waking up and stretching their muscles, clearly just happy to be alive for another day.

Increasingly, the meerkats started to interact, several of them grooming some of the youngsters and the babies eventually starting to mock fight and bowl each other over.


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Eventually the meerkats started to drift away from the den and move into the open veld. Darting from one spot to the next,  they were off to find some food. With good rain having fallen fairly recently, there was an abundance of insects to be found and devoured. Their joie de vivre was on full display: finally, conditions had taken a turn for the better, after a severe and long-lasting drought.


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Back at the lodge, we had to make good on a desire we had expressed earlier, which was to go for a run with our guide Barry.  It ended up being a 7km run on a sandy path, taking a circular route starting from the camp. Was it hot and heavy-going? Yes.  Could I bail out and jump on the vehicle following us?  Not under any circumstances, having requested the run myself, to get some exercise.

In the afternoon we drove about one hour southwest towards a more heavily wooded area (with lots of blackthorn acacia trees) where we would stand a chance to see a black rhino.


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We spent the next couple of hours or so patrolling various tracks around the area but came up empty-handed.  No sign of a black rhino.  Or any rhino for that matter.  We had pretty much resigned ourselves to not seeing these magnificent animals – at least not on this trip to Tswalu –  when our capable tracker William spotted some rhino tracks.  “These tracks are very fresh,” he said.


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That definitely got my attention and sure enough, just minutes later – bingo – there was a female black rhino with a sub-adult calf staring at us from a somewhat elevated spot. The rhinos were partially obscured and clearly not sure where the potential threat may be coming from.  We had a brief opportunity for a few photographs and then the female black rhino and calf moved away, kicking up some Kalahari dust. It was the perfect ending to a magical three days in the Kalahari.


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In our blog post next Friday we will look at a few Arusha-area hotels, namely Ngare Sero Lodge, Legendary Lodge and Villa Maua.  Any one of these would be a good choice to spend a day or two prior to, or after a safari or climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1

26th February 2021

Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1


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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve Part 1

An African photographic safari is likely one of the most intriguing, multi-layered vacation experiences imaginable. It starts with the place. Often remote, sometimes romantic, occasionally jaw-droppingly awesome.

Then there’s the people. They’re invariably passionate about wildlife conservation, about the community within which they operate and about providing their guests with an experience which they may cherish for the rest of their lives. They’re fun to be around, never boring and their skills are remarkable.


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The top guides are accomplished all round naturalists, effective communicators, conversationalists and diplomats. Some are expert bird-watchers, or professional photographers.  Qualified walking guides can bring down a charging elephant with one shot. They avoid getting guests into a situation which may require such drastic action of course…

The mammals, birds and other creatures which are to be found around the camps and beyond, often steal the show. Finding and seeing them and learning more about their behavior and relationships are after all why most of us go on safari. 


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Motse

When you visit a top African safari property like Tswalu Kalahari Reserve in South Africa’s northern Cape province, it becomes easy to see how place, people, guiding and wildlife conservation can converge to create a unique and deeply satisfying experience.

Tswalu has a certain style and visitors are introduced to it even before they arrive in camp. The last leg of the journey there – from either Cape Town or Johannesburg – is usually as a passenger in Tswalu‘s stylish, high performance Pilatus PC-12. This sleek, pressurized turboprop gets you to Tswalu at a brisk 325 miles per hour, at a cruising altitude of 30,000 feet.

Sanctuary Retreats


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Descending into the hill and dune-studded woodland Kalahari, its singular visual appeal becomes obvious even before the Pilatus touches down with a brief squeal as the rubber tires meet the asphalt runway.  The impact of the red sand dunes, deep blue skies and golden grass is unavoidable:  there’s nowhere else like it.  Add the unmistakable look of the Korannaberg Mountains visible in the background and you know immediately where you are.

Arrival formalities are deftly dealt with at the reception center which has been more or less taken over by a giant Sociable Weaver colony. These cheeky-looking birds are all over the place, checking out new arrivals.


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Motse

The Place

We found the new iteration of Tswalu to be much to our liking.  The interiors were lighter with the textured walls painted in shades of grey and neutral, sand colors.  The traditional thatched roofs had been retained. Overall the effect was pleasing, cool, and classic.  There was nothing jarring or out of place.


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Motse

We also approve of the enlarged outside patio area where a large natural wood deck overlooks two pools and a water hole. Extending the overhead cover (natural wood  poles) now provides shade on practically the entire veranda, where we enjoyed several of our meals.  Kathy made use of the larger infinity pool and a smaller pool below while I was trying to capture some images of male masked weavers, constructing nests in an acacia tree close to the pool.


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Motse

The  rooms were just as spacious as we remembered them from our first visit.  And they were still 100% effectively air-conditioned, with good lighting, an inviting outdoor relaxation area, and a clear view over the water hole, from our room. And stocked with a tasty range of snacks including dried fruit and traditional dried beef sausage.


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The People

By the time we went out on our first game drive, we had already met Barry Peiser who would be our private guide for the next three days.  Barry – a prolific photographer –  clearly enjoys offering advice and tips on wildlife and landscape photography.  His favorite time of year at Tswalu is winter, as this allows him to spend the whole day out on the reserve with guests. The cooler conditions mean that animals don’t rest from the heat as much as they do in summer, and there’s more opportunity for photography.


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Between Barry and our expert tracker William Gaotswenwe, we had the ideal team to venture out in search of cheetah, lion, aardvark, sable antelope, pangolin, honey badger and caracal.  William is renowned for  never missing a clue or a sign left in the wild by an animal. Quiet and focused, when William signals with a raised hand from the tracker seat for the guide to stop the vehicle, nobody argues. Just a cursory glance at fresh tracks left in the red Kalahari sand, and he knows exactly where to go, or which direction to take.


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A Kalahari night drive

Over the next few days we always seemed to be in just the right position and I was able to capture some of my best ever images of the Kalahari wildlife.  Things started off with a bang on our very first night drive when we had a great sighting of an aardvark out in the open, just walking around, checking out potential feeding sites.  I made a rookie mistake by using a shutter speed which was just slightly too low to stop the motion and get a good, sharp image.  I will blame it on working with relatively new equipment (second trip with the Nikon D-850), but really should have nailed it.  Rule #1 in wildlife photography is to get a sharp image; anything blurry is pretty much useless, unless of course it is an intended effect.  So when you are in an ultra low-light situation, don’t worry about graininess or noise, that can be fixed (to a degree) in post-processing.  Your overriding aim should always be to get a sharp image.


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During the course of the night, we saw several other Kalahari specials including bat-eared foxes, springhares, scrub hares, an African wild cat, several large spotted genet, many dwarf field mice, and various gecko species.


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Lion Pride Squabbles

The following day we were out early for a game drive, the specific mission being to find the southern lion pride   Which we duly did, but only after we had enjoyed some great views of a brown hyena.  Somewhat uncharacteristically, it stopped and looked straight into the camera for a few seconds, before loping off.  I think if I had missed that shot (considering what had happened the previous night with the aardvark), I would have been ready to sell my camera.  The brown hyenas are unusual, rarely seen animals.  They are mostly nocturnal, becoming crepuscular (being out around sunrise and sunset) when it is cold.


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We crossed the public road into the southern sector of Tswalu, where the search for the lions would begin in earnest.   With master tracker William and guide Barry reading the tea leaves – tracks left by the lions along the road – we soon found them walking towards a rocky ridge.

There were three adult females with 6 cubs, followed at a distance by two young males just reaching maturity. Not known to us – at least not initially – was that we had stepped into a family squabble. The older female lion – who by now had given birth to a new set of cubs – was trying to emancipate the two young males, the older brothers. They would have none of it. At least not yet. 


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The two young males had become the innocent ‘victims’  of instinct, which rules lion behavior. Due to their size and power they had become a threat to their mother’s new set of  young cubs.  Instinctively, she had become extremely wary of letting them approach closely. At one stage when they got too close she rushed up to them snarling and with claws flying, forcibly letting them know that they were no longer welcome to the pride. It was time for them to go out on their own and find their own  way in the world.


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This is not an easy task and in fact the life of a young emerging male lion is fraught with perils including starvation, attack by territorial males and other predators. They are at their most vulnerable at this stage of their lives, having the ability but not yet the truly developed skills to hunt successfully.  

Eventually the two young males settled down a respectable distance away from their mother who then resumed feeding her three babies.  We mentally wished them the best of luck as we returned to camp.


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In our blog post next Friday we remain at Tswalu to take a closer look at some more special desert animals including Bat-eared Foxes and Suricates (meerkats), and we travel to a distant part of the reserve in search of Black Rhino.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

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Nyerere National Park
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READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

Read more
Botswana
Destinations

4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

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A Visit to Northern Botswana Continued

3rd September 2020

A Visit to Northern Botswana Continued


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A Visit to Northern Botswana Continued

JAO CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA

Having taken my farewell of the Kalahari for a while, I was driven back to Maun where I got back on a small plane for the half hour flight or so, to Jao in the western part of the Okavango Delta.   What more is there to be said about Jao other than that it is perfect. Since way back to when we first visited it in 2000, not long after it was opened, Jao has been on our ‘Groundhog Day’ list – a place where you can wake up every morning for the rest of your life and be happy.

The rooms are gorgeous: massive, romantic, dramatic, the stuff of dreams.  The same adjectives can be applied to the rest of the property:  the main lounge and bar area, the outside seating areas, the library, and extending right out to the gym and spa.   Even the dingiest of camps can look romantic at night, but Jao passes the daylight test with flying colors. Does it still look good in the unflattering glare of the midday sun? Definitely yes. Which puts it in very select company.


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Dinner was predictably excellent on the night I was there.  Even the most jaded of travelers will long remember nightfall at Jao.  The sensational views of the sun setting over the Delta, the soft pink glow lasting for what seems to be hours as the birds go silent, the reed frogs start up to their metallic clinks, and the last few baboon noises dying away as they settle down in the trees.

On an afternoon boating outing I caught (and released) a decent-sized tiger fish, much to my surprise and much to the delight of the guide, who was even happier about it than me.  Even if I hadn’t caught a thing, it would have been a great afternoon.  Being in a small aluminum skiff exploring the bywaters and lagoons of the Okavango Delta can easily push you into a Walter Mitty moment.  There you are, expertly piloting the craft along the deceptively serene-looking waterways, taking just the right line to smoothly glide around a tight corner.   Fortunately, the imaginary helmsman doesn’t have to concern himself with the myriad of unseen obstacles lurking below the surface.  Shallow sand-banks, hidden tree stumps and sometimes – a misplaced hippopotamus.  Those ones that are supposed to be in deeper water…


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Our morning game drive at Jao  was fairly uneventful except that I got a couple of  nice bird photos including a Plainbacked Pipit and a Malachite Kingfisher in superb morning light.  To be sure, there were lots of elephants around and some general plains game.  Ordinarily, we’d advise guests at Jao to take a day outing to nearby Hunda Island, if they are keen to see predators such as leopards and lions, among others. 

Upon my return to Jao, there was a surprise waiting for me: a 20-minute helicopter flight over the Delta with Helicopter Horizons, courtesy of Wilderness Safaris.  What a treat and what a special experience!  This was fast turning into the ‘helicopter trip’.  Great to start working on a new skill, aerial photography.


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PELO CAMP, OKAVANGO DELTA

En route to Pelo Camp – which would be a new property for me – I did a site inspection at Kwetsani which is now even more impressive than before. Pretty much the ideal – classic – Okavango Delta experience with rooms that are well beyond the standard of a normal, run-of-the-mill classic camp. One thing which will always be the same at Kwetsani is the time tested views over the large floodplain in front of camp, where there’s almost always some birds and animals around. Then it was on to Pelo which I liked right away.  Quite small, with only 5 rooms, tucked away on a well-vegetated island right in the heart of the Delta, Pelo is all about experiencing a typical Okavango Delta water camp with boating, mokoro outings and walking on the islands.  Pelo has a particularly nice communal area, intimate and inviting. The afternoon boat trip was rather quiet but the other boat saw a breeding herd of 50-plus elephants.  As always it’s a matter of time and place. 


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We enjoyed a boma dinner outside with an entertaining singing and dancing performance from the staff.  Great memories!

On my last morning at Pelo, I took my best photos yet of a Pel’s Fishing Owl, a rarely seen nocturnal bird.  Prior to my visit, I had been alerted to the fact that there was a female Pel’s raising a chick outside tent number four.   Emerging from tent #4 that morning, there it was:  staring me down as it was bringing some food (it looked like a piece of fish) for the baby.  I managed quite a few exposures in good light. Simply an amazing bird!  Later that morning I enjoyed yet another enjoyable and interesting boat ride.  There were lots of colorful birds to be seen, with African Fish Eagles being visible practically every few hundred meters.  We also had great looks at a few decent sized Nile crocodiles.


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SABLE ALLEY CAMP, KHWAI

After a good breakfast it was back to the airstrip for a flight to the Khwai area, where I would  spend the next two nights at Sable Alley.  The main area is about as good as it gets in Botswana, with a huge open-design deck and dining room, overlooking a pond.  The camp also has a beautiful pool.   The tented rooms – spread out along a boardwalk in a wetland habitat, were well planned and executed.  Spacious, with a large veranda and a usable bench, excellent ventilation, and superior indoor lighting – the best of any camps I’ve been to lately.  Add to that a comfortable bed and bedding, separate toilet, ample storage space, an effective waterfall shower head as well as scaldingly hot water, and an outdoor shower on a raised wooden deck.


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Our afternoon game drive with guide Tony and trainee Teenage turned out to be surprisingly good despite conditions not being ideal. There were several small groups of elephant, some seen quite close up, and we had some good views of kudu and impala. The most notable sighting was a couple of sub adult African Painted Dogs at a suspected denning site. We watched them for a while before they loped into the bush. According to our guide Tony the alpha female had already given birth to a litter of pups; it remained to be seen how many pups there were, and if the pack would raise them in that location.

We returned to camp for a quick shower, drinks and excellent dinner.


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Our Sunday morning game drive was on the quiet side although first time visitors to Africa would’ve been quite happy to see as many elephants as we did. It was noticeable that the elephants in the concession have a lot of ‘attitude’ compared with elephants in most other areas. Likely a holdover from the days in which hunting was allowed in the area, resulting in the elephants being a bit wary and giving  vehicles and people a wider berth than one might anticipate. We came across several small groups of up to 10 or so elephants with several young ones including a couple of tiny babies.  Clearly the elephants are doing well.

Later on during the drive we came across zebra, kudu, some giraffe, and plenty of impala. Fantastic birds.  In line with my previous experiences in this area, it is best visited in the dry season from July through October.


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That afternoon I relocated to Hyena Pan, which looked like quite an interesting spot, again likely to be a much better bet in the dry season than when we were there.  Located on the edge of a water hole, the camp is rustic but perfectly comfortable, with a cozy common area and large dining room. Our guide there – Daniel – was one of the best to date on the trip:  energetic and enthusiastic. We drove about 40 minutes in the Khwai village direction, mostly through non-productive mopane forest.  Once we reached the more open area and riverine bush strips of the NG 18 concession, we started to see plenty of game.  Initially a mating pair of lions and then a group of four painted dogs which we followed for a while.  They kept moving so photography was hit and miss; lots of excitement though.  The evening was rounded off with a  good buffet meal with beef stroganoff as the main attraction.


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CHITABE CAMP, MOREMI

Late this morning I was on a flight to Chitabe, a Wilderness Safaris classic property in the far south-eastern part of the Okavango Delta. Almost immediately I started seeing giraffes, zebras and  elephants –  clearly there was an abundance of general game all over the area.  Since my visit the main area at Chitabe has been rebuilt.  The rooms were superb:  plenty of space, good lighting, huge mosquito nets, hot water bottles at night, a tea and coffee station, sufficient charging points.

On the afternoon game drive we had yet more views of elephants, zebras, giraffes and a large pride of lions.  We enjoyed sundowners at a small, peaceful lake.  The excellent dinner that evening was served family style.


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I was up at 05:30 am the next morning for a light breakfast, embarking on the game drive just after six.  The drive presented our best views yet of spotted hyenas at their den, producing a few nice shots in good morning light. Then we got word about a pack of African painted dogs, and found 20 of them resting up and snoozing in the shade of a vehicle on the edge of the Chitabe airstrip. The light and vantage point was not great but I managed a few photographs.

Then it was back to camp where a huge elephant bull was barring the front entrance, at least for a while. Following on a tasty brunch, we enjoyed an impromptu drumming performance by one of the staff members.  By 2:30 pm I was back at the airport,  with multiple elephant,  zebra, kudu, impala and giraffe sightings en route.  Indicative of the wealth of game in the Chitabe area, I had to assist the guide in chasing impala, warthogs and giraffe from the airstrip to make it safe for the incoming aircraft, who would take us on to our next camp.

Chitabe certainly lived up to expectations and indeed exceeded them. The rooms are great and now that the rebuild of the main area has been completed it will likely rival just about any other northern Botswana camp for supremacy in delivering a big game experience.


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VUMBURA PLAINS, OKAVANGO DELTA

Just after 3:00 pm I was on the way to Vumbura Plains in the northern part of the Okavango Delta. A bit later than planned, due to an unexplained flight delay.  Once in camp – it is a rather lengthy and bumpy drive from the airstrip to the camp – I spent the next hour or so looking around the recently rebuilt main building.  It was quite impressive with clean, elegant lines, open to the environment and awash in natural light, with ample seating options in an expansive dining area.  Even if you spend several days at Vumbura Plains, you would rarely enjoy a meal in the same spot twice.


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After a quick introduction, we walked down the boardwalk to room number one. There were no apparent changes to the room which I had seen for the first time some years previously. Spacious, lots of natural light, decent interior lighting, an impressive indoor shower with a view as well as outdoor shower. A bathtub was oddly lacking – one would expect to see it in a deluxe property like Vumbura Plains; in fact an outdoor tub would be a nice touch.  After a delightful dinner with the camp manager it was off to bed, early.

After an early breakfast it was time to saddle up for the morning game drive with my guide Ron. Initially it was slow but after about an hour we found four beautiful young male lions, not quite into their prime but not far from it either. Next was a herd of about nine or so sable antelope.  These rarely seen and sparsely distributed antelope are fond of fairly tall grass, often seen in relatively thickly vegetated woodland such as in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.


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This particular group was as approachable as any Sable I’ve ever encountered, the two females allowing us to approach them quite closely. The light was still fairly good and I captured a few decent images. The dominant male sable was not at all cooperative. It was as if he knew that he was the one that we ‘really’ wanted to see, playing hide and seek with us for 30 minutes.  He proceeded to deliberately and seemingly determinedly walk from one thicket to another without as much as stopping even once, to give us a good look.  The sighting was a big plus in my book as Sable antelope was the one species I had specifically mentioned when asked by Ron – at the outset of the game drive – whether there was something particular I wanted to see. Being able to deliver on a very tricky animal such as this one counts a lot.


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The game drive got even better with sightings of a large herd of buffalo at the waterhole and then an equally large herd of fifty plus elephants stampeding through the woodland. Their irate trumpeting and a dust cloud announcing their whereabouts, from afar. They were apparently entering a new or dangerous area and all of the older females were trumpeting and running around.  Towards the final stage of the stampede, three of the females – including what appeared to be the matriarch female – started to approach the vehicle in somewhat of a threatening pose.  We were ready to decamp at a moment’s notice, but in the end it was not necessary.  Plenty of adrenalin though.  


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CAPTURE AFRICA, KHWAI REGION

Due to a flying mix up my planned 11:25 a.m. departure from Vumbura did not take place, but it was deftly replaced by a helicopter flight of about 20 minutes or so direct to Khwai River Lodge, where I was picked up by Brian Gibson of Capture Africa. An hour or so later we were at Capture Africa‘s private campsite on the Khwai River

Capture Africa specializes in high-quality private mobile tented safaris mostly in the Khwai, Moremi and Okavango Delta areas, but they can set up private mobile campsites and provide support services literally anywhere in Botswana.

Adding a few days of “real“ camping to a mostly lodge-based itinerary adds an extra layer of authenticity and adventure to a trip; for many people this is as close as they may ever come to the bush.


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That afternoon, from our exceedingly comfortable camping site we saw an elephant walk along the floodplain, splashing its way through the shallow water and down the river. It was a pleasant change to what I had been doing seemingly nonstop the preceding few days, which was finding the wildlife out on game drives.  Having them come to you is infinitely more rewarding and relaxing.  

Brian Gibson – who heads up Capture Africa – is clearly passionate about the wilderness.  He is a highly experienced guide himself and it was quite a revelation spending a day or so in his company, trying to absorb his pithy advice and in-depth knowledge of the area and its wildlife as well as its people. On a drive with Brian the next day we got lucky with African painted dogs on the move – the thrill of the chase! – and we enjoyed a great lion sighting as well.  The Khwai region is clearly a productive game-viewing environment, however the number of vehicles per sighting was notably higher than most of the other areas we visited on this trip.


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Our party of four people enjoyed a particularly splendid meal at Capture Africa’s mobile tented camp that night, spending another hour or so around the campfire afterwards.  It was just us, a  brilliant sky, and what must have been close to 4,500 stars above.   That being the maximum number visible to the human eye, which can only detect stars brighter than magnitude 6 to 6.5.  Just as noticeably, there was practically no man-made ambient light, no noises and no disturbances.  Not that it was totally quiet.   If you knew what you were listening to, there was what sounded like a lost – or lonely – jackal, a few hungry hyenas  and a couple of African scops owls advertising their presence with their chirp-like calls.  The African bush at night.


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EBONY CAMP, LINYANTI

This morning I flew from Khwai to the Linyanti floodplain for an overnight at Ebony camp, African Bush Camps’ family option, adjacent  to the similar but slightly larger Linyanti Bush camp.  Room number 10 at Ebony Camp is the designated family room.

Either camp would be an ideal safari choice for visitors, particularly from about June/July through October and early November, in the dry season. At that time of the year the floodplain attracts good numbers of elephant, buffalo and other big game species including predators.

At the time of our visit in mid-May the surrounding bush was still quite thick which made game viewing challenging. Even so, we saw several small herds of elephants, hippos in the river and a coalition of three male lions. As well as some giraffe, waterbuck, impala and exceptionally good birdlife.


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The camp is clearly well-managed and I found the staff to be friendly and approachable. It would be nice to have the tent door zippers replaced with regular doors. Only two of the rooms (honeymoon room and family room) have bathtubs. The other rooms have showers with hot water available at all times.

The grand finale of my Botswana trip was yet another helicopter ride, this time to check out the Linyanti River and its denizens which included several pods of hippopotamus, giraffes drinking, a few crocodiles.  From the air, there was a dearth of any signs of human encroachment.  There are so few places left in the wilderness which are truly remote and this is one of them.

My next stop would be South Africa, for a return visit to the Kruger Park and Sabi Sand reserve.  Details to follow in our blog post to be published next Friday.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Destinations
Zambia

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Read more
Botswana
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Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

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Nyerere National Park
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14th October 2023

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SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

Read more
Botswana
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4th August 2022

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