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Zimbabwe

A Week in Hwange, Zimbabwe

21st May 2024

A Week in Hwange, Zimbabwe

When six inches of rain fell in less than 36 hours in Northern Hwange recently, it likely saved the lives of hundreds of vulnerable elephants, including many youngsters, from an untimely early death.  

That much rain in such a short time also has a significantly negative impact on game viewing. Literally from one day to the next, throngs of elephants and other animals at water holes vanish. Gone are the dramatic, dust-laden scenes with elephants vying for access to dwindling water. Gone are many of the chances for seeing predators stalking weakened prey animals. 

What to do? Keeping guests happy under those circumstances is why we rely so heavily on a handful of Africa-based partners. In this case Zimbabwe’s Imvelo Safaris, recently approved as a Safari Pros industry partner. 

Without skipping a beat, Imvelo amended the itinerary for some Fish Eagle Safaris guests in Hwange at the time. Instead of spending three nights in the rain-affected area around Nehimba, our guests were moved to Imvelo’s flagship property Camelthorn in the south. A private vehicle and guide were included at no additional cost. 

The results? Pretty spectacular. Over the course of their week in southern Hwange – with a strong professional guide in the person of Eric in charge – the guests experienced many excellent sightings. 

Here are the highlights, in the guest’s own words:

-Impalas and wildebeests running hard in the distance. Drove up to find a pack of 13 wild dogs inhaling an impala. Watched for over an hour as other scavengers arrived. Couldn’t leave until we saw that the jackals got something, and then watched one jackal leap up into the air and bite a vulture!

-Teenage elephant having a great mud wallow

-Two skinny cheetah brothers attempting a wildebeest chase

-An amazing walking safari to approach an elephant. Got within 20 feet before he knew we were there, then the guide had to whistle and clap his hands to get his attention. Heart-thumping!

-Two fat cheetah brothers napping in the shade. One got up to reposition and farted for us…we could ALL smell it!

-A lioness nursing her three cubs with her wildebeest catch stashed in the thicket

-Went back the next day to check on the lioness as she was lounging near her catch, and the two cheetah brothers came sniffing by. We were all very tense waiting to see what would happen…she leapt out of the thicket and it was cheetah scatter!

– Six younger elephants had a pool party at one of the watering holes, lots of swimming and splashing

-Large male lion guarding his kill in the thicket near a watering hole, could tell it was a young elephant! We had our nervous lunch nearby…

-A pride of four lions scattering a tower of giraffes

-Loved watching dung beetles rolling their dung balls

-Watched a snake and gecko battle it out…the snake won

Our guide Eric was the best! He provided tons of information, was great at meeting our needs and giving us great experiences.”

This guest experience underscores three crucial things we have come to recognize over the years as being essential to a good safari:

A good guide, someone to have your back and spending more time in fewer locations. 

That’s a short sentence with few words but they reach deeply into the essence of the African safari experience. 

A good guide

A competent guide interprets, amplifies and illuminates what you are seeing around you, adds his or her own perspective based on what may very well be decades of guiding. A good  guide anticipates and entertains. Gets you into just the right spot for a photo, makes you think and makes you laugh. They are a rare breed. 

Guides come and go and it is not always possible to request specific ones. Who to ask for? Perhaps the most energetic, enthusiastic member of the team, the one who is always first out and last back. Which is indicative of a love of one’s profession, usually accompanied by passion and just a little bit of a competitive instinct. All the better to get you out there in search of wonderful wilderness experiences.

Someone to have your back

Someone to have your back is probably the most overlooked aspect of safari travel due to the near ubiquitous electronic connectivity which we all enjoy nowadays. It’s almost as if you have a team at your disposal 24-7, irrespective of your or their physical location. 

Which is true most of the time but when the chips are down you need a reliable in-country back-up network. A team of professionals who can change you from one hotel to another if that is what it takes to salvage a trip. Who can quickly and effectively mobilize emergency health resources to come to your aid in a crisis.. 

I experienced this first hand just 10 days ago at the start of our Tanzania trip, in Arusha. I was sick as a dog. An upper respiratory infection had me by the throat – and lungs – and things were looking grim. That’s when someone having your back in Africa saved the day. All it took was a brief email to Nomad Tanzania, our destination management company partner – and literally 10 minutes later I was on a phone consultation with an MD. Not an hour later several medications were dropped off by a courier on a bike. 

Even with the best will in the world, it is not possible to adequately deliver these services remotely. If you travel with Fish Eagle Safaris you can rely on solid in-country support and you will never be left to fend for yourself. 

Spending more time in fewer locations 

Our recent Hwange guests did not plan on spending an entire week in the southern Hwange area. Yet when circumstances beyond anyone’s control resulted in exactly that, it turned out surprisingly well. 

Spending more time in fewer areas also affects the pace of a trip. Making it less rushed and more in keeping with the ambiance of a wilderness experience. With more time in an area you will be able to enjoy all or most of the available activities and find out what makes an area special or different. Spend three or four nights at a camp and invariably you will connect better with your guide(s) and camp staff and management. Which makes for a more meaningful and memorable trip.  

Haven’t been on a trip to Africa recently? Put us to the test and see for yourself what a difference it might make to work with us. Give us a call at 1 800 513 5222 during business hours Monday to Friday CDT or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com 

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Take Yourself On Safari

7th April 2024

Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

6th April 2024

Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

There are only a handful of places in Africa which rival Mana Pools National Park in far northeastern Zimbabwe for sheer safari star power. Starting with a near perfect setting with several camps overlooking the floodplain leading down to the massive Zambezi. In the dry season the floodplain acts like a magnet for wildlife and there’s almost always something to see. Pack your binoculars. In the background? The looming Zambian escarpment, a series of craggy hills which look impossibly appropriate to the scene. Almost as if a primeval techie had photoshopped nature. It doesn’t take first-time visitors long to realize that there is something wonderfully ethereal about Mana Pools’ winterthorn (Faidherbia albida) forests. The near magical blue light which suffuses the interior of the forests transforms an already spectacular setting into something totally next level.

There’s a lot more, starting with above average to sometimes scintillating game viewing, given the presence of elephants, lions, leopards, African painted dogs, eland, waterbuck and zebra. Plus of course rafts of hippo in the Zambezi and some fine specimens of Nile crocodiles. Trolling unseen below the surface, an abundance of tiger fish, ready to grab your spoon or lure, should you be up for the challenge to take on these notoriously difficult to catch fighting fish. A hint: the tigers can be closer to the shore than you think, particularly if there’s a nice current visible. A more important hint: don’t venture too close to the edge. The tigers won’t, but the crocs may consider you fair game. 

Mix in foot safaris (Mana Pools is practically synonymous with getting out of the vehicle) and the place is heaven on earth for visitors in search of a classic Africa experience. 

If you’re still considering a summer getaway to Africa this year, you may find that Kenya and Tanzania – and all of the best camps in the private game reserves adjacent to Kruger Park in South Africa – are pretty much ‘sold out.’ You may balk at the eye-wateringly high prices of some of the northern Botswana properties. Don’t give up. Spain is not the answer. There’s still plenty of space available in Mana Pools, so give us a call at 800-513-5222 or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to talk about a safari which is going to be excellent, and which will cost you half the price of a comparable Botswana trip. Mix in a few days in Hwange National Park (nowhere better for elephants) and you’ll come back with awesome photographs and even better memories and tales to tell. Upping the value even more? Free charter flights from Harare to Mana Pools, from Mana Pools to Hwange and from Hwange to Victoria Falls, provided you add on a couple of nights at Toka Leya, a superb lodge on the Zambezi, just far enough away – upstream – from Victoria Falls. This offer is available from now until 15 Nov 2024. Itineraries need to include a minimum of either six or eight nights in specific safari camps in Zimbabwe. Details available on request.  

Better game viewing earlier in the season 

The greater part of the prime game viewing area in Zimbabwe has experienced well below average rainfall this season which means that dry-season conditions have already set in. Mid- to late May will be like mid-July to early August in a ‘regular’ year. Less vegetation with more animals concentrated around remaining sources of water such as pumped water holes in Hwange and the floodplains of the Zambezi. The dry season is notorious for delivering the best predator activity, particularly with lions but also leopards making use of the opportunity to ambush herbivores when they come to drink. In Hwange and elsewhere there will be throngs of elephants and other mammals including buffalos, giraffes and some rarely seen antelopes like sable and roan, coming to the pumped water holes, pretty much day and night.  

Significant drought conditions later in the season 

Later in the dry season – as drought conditions worsen and food becomes scarce – some of the scenes around the water holes may be intense and even harrowing. Unless there is late rain, many of the large herbivores – notably the elephants – will start to struggle and the weaker ones will succumb as the daily trek between sources of food (woodland forest) and the water holes becomes just too much. In the long run, a reduction in the overall number of elephants in particular, will be beneficial for the environment. Regrettably, it will be a harsh and tough process to witness.   

The vital role played by safari visitors

Prospective visitors can take comfort in knowing that tourism dollars are hugely important in terms of sustaining the wildlife and the communities around the safari areas. As many as one out of every ten jobs in Africa is created and sustained by tourism. On average, one person employed in the Zimbabwe tourism industry supports as many as 10 dependents. The funds generated by tourism support vital wildlife safety nets like pumped water holes in Hwange. Right now, companies like Imvelo Safaris are going flat out re-drilling boreholes to maximize their efficiency and spending money on new pumps and equipment. Money which largely comes from American and other foreign visitors.   

Imvelo Safaris are also drilling three new boreholes at three villages specifically to sustain irrigated vegetable gardens to keep people fed during the coming months. They are also ramping up their school feeding program. Little or no corn in the fields means no fresh corn for breakfast, creating a need for more funds to provide the children with a square meal. In Zimbabwe, the second school term opens at the  beginning of May. Every additional visitor will make a difference. This year, more so than in a long time. Every dollar spent or donated in the Zimbabwe safari destinations this year will provide a vital, much needed boost to the local economy, the people and the wildlife.  

Two other ways in which the people of Zimbabwe can be supported is by making a microloan to a local entrepreneur on Kiva at kiva.org, or by directly supporting the conservation and community efforts of Mark Butcher and his team at Imvelo Safaris. Imvelo’s guests have sponsored a school meal program that has provided over 4 million school meals to dozens of schools in just the past 10 years. They’ve also built teacher cottages, constructed classroom blocks, established a health clinic at Ngamo and annually they arrange a massive ‘Smile and See’ project treating thousands of dental and optical patients free of charge, with the help of a visiting team of dentists and eye doctors. Donations to all Imvelo Trust projects may be made on this site: https://www.hwangecommunityrhino.com/how-to-donate.

Incredible value

A safari of equal quality, using a similar mix of classic category tented camps in Zimbabwe is roughly half the price of a northern Botswana trip of the same duration during high season. With hardly any dropoff in terms of game viewing and diversity of habitats and activities. Not to mention equal or better professional guiding in Zimbabwe and more varied scenery. Victoria Falls being at its best through the end of May and into June, when the river is in high flow stage. The setting of the Mana Pools camps on the southern edge of the Zambezi with the massive river in front and the pretty Zambian escarpment in the background? One of the best in all of Africa. Travel before the end of May and you can take advantage of low shoulder season pricing, with rates at some of the camps being as much as 50% lower than high season prices. Include three free flights (Harare to Mana Pools, Mana Pools to Hwange and Hwange to Victoria Falls) and you’re looking at a savings of up to $1,500 per person. 

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Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

5th April 2024

Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

Reviewing the trips which our Fish Eagle Safaris guests will be embarking on over the remainder of 2024, several more of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties popped up. These are places where we would be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives. Eat your heart out, Bill Murray.

Jao Camp, Okavango Delta – Botswana

Imagine being dropped off – blindfolded – on a small island in the Okavango Delta. As the helicopter noise fades into the background, you take off the blindfold. Where are you? It could be one of dozens of spots in the Delta. All stunningly beautiful, but not distinctively unique. Not so the Jao Concession in the western part of the Delta. Here, the typical Delta mosaic of palm-fringed islands, crystal clear waterways, papyrus-fringed lagoons and lush reedbeds takes on an identity of its own. Practically unmistakeable. Even on just my second visit, it became clear that this part of Northern Botswana was special and unique.   

Photo credit Dana Allen

There are several superb safari camps in the concession, with Wilderness’ Jao Camp at the pinnacle of luxury, comfort and all-round excellence. There are pretty spots in the Delta, and gorgeous riverine forests, and then there’s the spot where Jao was built. When on safari I suffer from pretty intense FOMO and almost never miss a game drive. At Jao, the tables are turned. You could miss out by getting into a vehicle and leaving camp. This is where you want to spend an extra night or even two, to revel in the sybaritic splendor of the spacious and elegantly designed tents, to linger over an exquisite dinner in the museum room, or to just spend a few hours on the verandah, soaking in the atmosphere. The entire camp is elevated about 3 to 5 meters above ground level, enhancing the views and adding a tree-house like feel. Sooner or later you might actually feel like venturing out, and of course there’s plenty to do beyond R & R. The camp offers daily guided wildlife safaris, as well as boat trips and mokoro excursions (subject to water levels), allowing visitors to explore the rich biodiversity of the Okavango Delta.

Mashatu Euphorbia Lodge – South Africa

Mashatu Euphorbia Villas is about as close as a safari lodge gets to being a work of art. It all starts with a winding drive up a steep hill into the most enchanting euphorbia forest you’ve ever seen. These stark, foreboding cactus plants – sometimes referred to as candelabra trees – loom alongside the drive into camp, a harbinger of what is to come. Crest the hill and suddenly you’re looking at as dramatic an entrance as there is to any safari camp in Africa. The experience builds from there. A  stunning lounge and dining area – not to mention the outdoor space, the boma and the nest seating area, perched on the edge of a 30-meter high cliff. The view? You just have to see it in person. During our recent visit the same superlatives could be heaped on the suites and the food. Impeccable. 

The game viewing experience at Mashatu is exceptional, with three species of big cats – lions, leopards and cheetahs – being seen regularly. This alone makes Mashatu a desirable destination, but there’s a lot more. Mashatu’s elephants are known for being tolerant to the presence of vehicles and you are likely to get surprisingly close to them from time to time. Other notable species include giraffes, zebras, eland (Africa’s largest antelope) and brown hyenas. Expert guides will take you on game drives or walks through the reserve, and as there is no prohibition on driving off-road or at night, you will almost assuredly have multiple opportunities to get close up and personal with many of these special mammals and the superb birdlife. Done enough game-driving? There are many other (optional, at additional cost) activities to enjoy at Mashatu including horseback riding, mountain biking, observing the animals and birds from a hide/blind (subject to availability) and bird watching.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – Rwanda

Wilderness Sabyinyo Lodge is hands down our favorite property in the Volcanoes National Park area. This beautiful lodge is located in a lush garden setting (the golden monkeys sometimes make a surprise visit) at the base of the Volcanoes National Park, with gorgeous views over the valley below and up towards several dormant volcanoes in the background. It is just minutes away from the Volcanoes National Park headquarters for the morning briefing before gorilla treks. The hospitality, food and rooms – and the main lodge – are all first class, and the lodge is 100% community-owned, with a sterling conservation ethos. There are several other lodges in the area with an even higher price tag (Sabyinyo is no slouch in that department) and bigger, fancier, rooms. We like Sabyinyo for providing an all-round stay which feels like spending time at someone’s private mountain lodge. Everything is to scale, it is relaxed yet with good attention to detail, and just feels like it fits into the environment without being jarring or out of place in any way.

Victoria Falls Hotel – Zimbabwe

There’s really no more interesting or fascinating place to spend a couple of nights in Vic Falls, than the Victoria Falls Hotel. Despite having all of the modern conveniences and much improved food and beverage service (compared with a few years ago), the hotel has lost none of its old-world charm. Staying there feels every bit like being transported back to the early 1900’s. Beautiful gardens, a first-class curio shop, interesting restaurants (one of which puts on a traditional dancing performance nightly) and ideally located to venture out on activities. The Victoria Falls Hotel is not only the ‘grande dame’ of all the hotels in the village, it also occupies a prime spot with a superb view over the Batoka Gorge, with the bridge spanning the chasm between Zimbabwe and Zambia right in the line of sight. Truly a timeless classic which has been carefully nurtured and maintained over the years, with all the rooms now fitted with modern bathrooms, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. The grounds and the public areas are worth exploring with a myriad of birds and smaller mammals around.

Tswalu Motse, Cape Kalahari –  South Africa

Tswalu is one of our favorite properties for many reasons, mostly because of the excellent game viewing and particularly the chance to see some special mammals such as habituated meerkats, black rhino and both pangolin and aardvark. It also has lots of desert-adapted animals like bat-eared foxes, gemsbok and springbok. Plus good predator numbers including cheetahs and lions. Tswalu includes a private guide and vehicle with all bookings and the guiding is superb. At Tswalu, you will also have the opportunity (included for all guests) to dine at Klein Jan, created by South Africa’s first Michelin Star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who owns Restaurant Jan in Nice, France. Klein Jan has become one of the world’s go-to restaurants despite its remote, isolated location in the Northern Cape’s Kalahari Desert. 

Thinking about including one or more of these stellar properties in your first or next trip to Africa? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Zimbabwe & Botswana special offers – low-demand season 2023-2024

12th October 2023

Zimbabwe & Botswana low-demand season special offers – 2023/2024

We’ve got several special offers available for the coming low-demand season in both Zimbabwe and Botswana. The specials are available for a range of properties in both countries, from December (in some instances November 2023) through to March and April 2024. For a few camps the discounts extend right until the end of May. 

Zimbabwe

The best all around deals are available for the Imvelo Safaris camps in Hwange – namely Camelthorn, Bomani, Nehimba and Jozibanini. Here’s the lowdown:  

*Stay three nights/Pay two nights.
*Stay seven nights/Pay five nights.
*Children 18 and under stay free when sharing with an adult. Up to two children per adult. 
*No single supplement. 
*A free private vehicle will be included for groups of four or more.

Add a couple of nights in Victoria Falls, put it all together and you’re looking at a nine night/ten day fly-in safari at a price of around $5,200 per person sharing, with three nights at Nehimba and four at Bomani, and two nights at Pioneers Lodge in Victoria Falls.  

This price is valid for 1 January 2024 to 30 April 2024, and from 1 December 2024 to 31 December 2024. The rates will be extended to 31 May 2024 at Camelthorn and Nehimba, and to 31 July 2024 at Jozibanini.

What is included:

*2 nights in Victoria Falls on bed & breakfast basis
*7 nights on safari at two safari camps in central and southern Hwange
*All meals, soft drinks, beers, wines & local spirits on safari
*Bed & breakfast accommodation in Victoria Falls
*Laundry included at safari camps
*All road transfers and two scheduled light air transfers from and back to Victoria Falls  
*A sundowner cruise on the Zambezi
*A private guided tour of Victoria Falls
*Twice daily game viewing activities at both safari properties
*A Ngamo community experience, a Community Rhino Conservation Initiative (CRCI) talk and rhino viewing at Bomani and Camelthorn

Excluded:

*Gratuities
*Hwange National Park entry fee of $20.00 per person per day 
*Rhino Conservation and Community Levy – $150 per person
*Commercial flights from the USA to and back from VFA (Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe).

Safari notes:

*The CRCI rhino sanctuary has become an incredible guest experience at Bomani and Camelthorn and is available year-round.
*Mack Air has economical charter flight rates into and out of Hwange year-round (including the low demand season), which makes getting around a lot easier and more affordable than private charters.

About Hwange

Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination. This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 40,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, often two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and African painted dogs.

The safari experience in Hwange is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya. One difference: Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally attractive roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other birds. Hwange is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.

Botswana in summer

There are few destinations in Southern Africa with quite the same appeal as Botswana in the low-demand season from December through the end of March. Even in years of good rainfall – not likely to be the case this coming summer – the precipitation is relatively low, hardly ever more than four inches average per month.  Most importantly, no part of the region is subject to the torrential rainfall which all too frequently affects the South African lowveld area (including much of the Kruger Park), from January through March, caused by tropical cyclones.  

With some rain – and the cooling effect of the cloudy weather – northern Botswana and the Kalahari (though still warm to hot in the afternoons) are much more pleasant than in the months of October and November. With even limited rainfall, the dry, dusty veld conditions seemingly change overnight, bursting with bright green vegetation, flowers and rich colors.

Conditions are ideal for photography. Beautifully soft morning and afternoon light. Crisp, clean air with minimal haze, and absolutely gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, almost always with some clouds around for added drama and color. I took some of my best ever leopard photographs in the Jao concession in Northern Botswana in March some years ago. Likewise in the Kwara area and at Duba in the northern Okavango Delta on two other February/March trips. Leopards, cheetahs, African painted dogs, giraffes, zebras – in perfect light, game drive after game drive.    

Include a few days in the Kalahari at Nxai Pan and discover an area simply teeming with life during the summer months when thousands of zebras migrate onto the open pans, in search of the fresh, emerging vegetation. Never too far behind? The impressive black-maned lions of the Kalahari and cheetahs clambering onto anthills or tree stumps on the lookout for springbok, steenbok or impala. In the summer months, there’s usually good numbers of big-tusked elephant bulls around, scattered groups of buffaloes and a variety of antelopes and abundant giraffes in the woodlands. On previous low-demand season trips to Northern Botswana we’ve gotten lucky with African painted dogs on several occasions, and there’s always a chance of seeing brown hyenas and African honey badgers.  

One of the best low-demand season offers for Botswana – available from January to March 2024 – is a “stay 8 nights, pay for 6 nights” deal from Desert & Delta at a price of less than $5,000 per person, including all internal charter flights from and back to Maun. The offer includes a 3-night stay at Leroo La Tau camp in the Kalahari. It is possible to include Chobe Game Lodge as well. This is what we would recommend:

*Two nights at Camp Okavango or Xugana Island Lodge. These typical Okavango Delta water camps offer the ultimate in relaxation in the heart of the Delta with unmatched walking, mokoro and boating activities.
*Three nights at Camp Moremi or Camp Xakanaxa. Here, on the edge of the Moremi Game reserve, guests can enjoy the perfect combination of prolific game viewing and motorized boat excursions into the Delta’s papyrus-choked channels exploring beautiful lagoons, small palm-fringed islands and patches of floodplain.
*Three nights at Leroo La Tau inclusive of a Nxai Pan day trip, a cultural experience and excellent photography opportunities along the Boteti River Valley.

This coming summer may be one of the best opportunities in many years to visit Botswana during the low demand season. With fewer travelers in the region, visitors will enjoy what is already a remote wilderness area, even more. For more details, please call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 during normal business hours, Monday to Friday, or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

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The elephants of Jozibanini, Hwange National Park

Twice during our recent trip to Zimbabwe, Kathy and I spent a couple of hours or so in the ‘look-up’ blind overlooking Steve’s Pan, a little more than a football field away from Jozibanini bush camp, in far south-western Hwange National Park. Twice, we were bowled over by the intensity and sheer visual impact of the event. A dry season visit to the blind at Jozibanini is at the very pinnacle of wildlife viewing experiences in Africa. For about an hour or so, we were transfixed by the spectacle of dozens of elephants of every imaginable size jostling and maneuvering for water around three troughs in a concrete slab. It was as intense as anything we had ever experienced in nature. 

Like rugby players in a scrum, the elephants were pushing and shoving, single-mindedly focused on dipping their trunks into the water. Twice, we shared a panicky moment when a baby elephant inadvertently slipped or was accidently pushed into one of the holes. Its ear splitting screams were almost immediately followed by its mother – or one of the other females in the herd – deftly lifting and bundling it out of the hole with a powerful trunk movement. Kathy and I looked at each other, wide-eyed with shock and relief. The sheer proximity of the events unfolding right in front of us, just meters from the opening of the hide, was just about overwhelming, and certainly emotional. We could practically feel the driving need of the elephants for water – and sense their desperation to slake their thirst. 

Elephants, water and the need to maintain pumped water holes in the dry season are a complex issue. The only way to understand Hwange today is to go back to 1928 when 22-year-old Ted Davison arrived in what was to become Wankie Game Reserve. Davison – the newly appointed Game Warden – found that all the wildlife he was trying to protect was forced to leave his protection every dry season. Why? Because the new game reserve he was trying to create had no perennial surface water. Every dry season the 500 to 1,000 elephants he started with migrated out of the park and were persecuted heavily for their ivory. In 1935, Davison erected the first windmill in the park to pump water to the surface during the dry season. Over the next 25 years he built a huge network of windmills and wells with diesel pumps. Under Ted Davison’s year round protection, Wankie’s wildlife flourished.  

Today, Hwange National Park has over 45,000 elephants plus countless other large mammals solely dependent upon a network of over 60 wells that pump water during the long dry season from about June through October & November. This is one of the many remarkable things that makes Hwange unique.

It is at Jozibanini in the deep south and west of Hwange that this effort is most remarkable. Abandoned in 2000 and later overwhelmed with poachers, Imvelo took Jozibanini under its wing in 2014. The company revitalized the borehole and established a presence on the ground, providing water and protection for the thirsty herds. In 2021, the burgeoning wildlife necessitated a significant upgrade in water pumping capacity to 5,000 liters plus per hour. Today, this hard-working and much favored waterhole is a nexus for the huge herds that form part of the annual west – east – west migration of large mammals across Hwange. On many days during the dry season over a thousand elephants a day water at Jozi. As we’ve seen first-hand on two different visits to Jozibanini, many other water dependent species including roan antelope, kudu and gemsbok – seldom seen elsewhere in Hwange – utilize the pan as well.  

The Look-Up blind at Steve’s Pan is the focal point of activities at Jozibanini. It is an exciting and hugely memorable spot from which to view and photograph close up the fascinating spectacle and sometimes tough social interactions which make up daily life for Hwange’s magnificent elephants during the harsh dry season. 

Imvelo’s unique solar hybrid pumping systems ensure water is pumped not only while the sun is shining but also from 4 pm onwards when the power of the sun is insufficient to drive the pump. This is when a diesel-powered engine kicks in, ensuring an uninterrupted supply of water, usually just as Hwange’s thirsty herds arrive at the waterholes in their greatest numbers.

Towards the end of the dry season Imvelo’s pumps are working day and night and pump nearly ¾ million liters of water a day providing water for 10,000 plus elephants and countless other wildlife. 

We’ve visited Jozibanini twice now and we know how and when it should be combined with other nearby lodges – for example to optimize your chances to see African painted dogs. Or extend your trip into Matusadona National Park or all the way to Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe, along the Zambezi. For more information and trip suggestions call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email me directly at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

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