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Zimbabwe

The elephants of Jozibanini, Hwange National Park

18th August 2023

The elephants of Jozibanini, Hwange National Park

Twice during our recent trip to Zimbabwe, Kathy and I spent a couple of hours or so in the ‘look-up’ blind overlooking Steve’s Pan, a little more than a football field away from Jozibanini bush camp, in far south-western Hwange National Park. Twice, we were bowled over by the intensity and sheer visual impact of the event. A dry season visit to the blind at Jozibanini is at the very pinnacle of wildlife viewing experiences in Africa. For about an hour or so, we were transfixed by the spectacle of dozens of elephants of every imaginable size jostling and maneuvering for water around three troughs in a concrete slab. It was as intense as anything we had ever experienced in nature. 

Like rugby players in a scrum, the elephants were pushing and shoving, single-mindedly focused on dipping their trunks into the water. Twice, we shared a panicky moment when a baby elephant inadvertently slipped or was accidently pushed into one of the holes. Its ear splitting screams were almost immediately followed by its mother – or one of the other females in the herd – deftly lifting and bundling it out of the hole with a powerful trunk movement. Kathy and I looked at each other, wide-eyed with shock and relief. The sheer proximity of the events unfolding right in front of us, just meters from the opening of the hide, was just about overwhelming, and certainly emotional. We could practically feel the driving need of the elephants for water – and sense their desperation to slake their thirst. 

Elephants, water and the need to maintain pumped water holes in the dry season are a complex issue. The only way to understand Hwange today is to go back to 1928 when 22-year-old Ted Davison arrived in what was to become Wankie Game Reserve. Davison – the newly appointed Game Warden – found that all the wildlife he was trying to protect was forced to leave his protection every dry season. Why? Because the new game reserve he was trying to create had no perennial surface water. Every dry season the 500 to 1,000 elephants he started with migrated out of the park and were persecuted heavily for their ivory. In 1935, Davison erected the first windmill in the park to pump water to the surface during the dry season. Over the next 25 years he built a huge network of windmills and wells with diesel pumps. Under Ted Davison’s year round protection, Wankie’s wildlife flourished.  

Today, Hwange National Park has over 45,000 elephants plus countless other large mammals solely dependent upon a network of over 60 wells that pump water during the long dry season from about June through October & November. This is one of the many remarkable things that makes Hwange unique.

It is at Jozibanini in the deep south and west of Hwange that this effort is most remarkable. Abandoned in 2000 and later overwhelmed with poachers, Imvelo took Jozibanini under its wing in 2014. The company revitalized the borehole and established a presence on the ground, providing water and protection for the thirsty herds. In 2021, the burgeoning wildlife necessitated a significant upgrade in water pumping capacity to 5,000 liters plus per hour. Today, this hard-working and much favored waterhole is a nexus for the huge herds that form part of the annual west – east – west migration of large mammals across Hwange. On many days during the dry season over a thousand elephants a day water at Jozi. As we’ve seen first-hand on two different visits to Jozibanini, many other water dependent species including roan antelope, kudu and gemsbok – seldom seen elsewhere in Hwange – utilize the pan as well.  

The Look-Up blind at Steve’s Pan is the focal point of activities at Jozibanini. It is an exciting and hugely memorable spot from which to view and photograph close up the fascinating spectacle and sometimes tough social interactions which make up daily life for Hwange’s magnificent elephants during the harsh dry season. 

Imvelo’s unique solar hybrid pumping systems ensure water is pumped not only while the sun is shining but also from 4 pm onwards when the power of the sun is insufficient to drive the pump. This is when a diesel-powered engine kicks in, ensuring an uninterrupted supply of water, usually just as Hwange’s thirsty herds arrive at the waterholes in their greatest numbers.

Towards the end of the dry season Imvelo’s pumps are working day and night and pump nearly ¾ million liters of water a day providing water for 10,000 plus elephants and countless other wildlife. 

We’ve visited Jozibanini twice now and we know how and when it should be combined with other nearby lodges – for example to optimize your chances to see African painted dogs. Or extend your trip into Matusadona National Park or all the way to Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe, along the Zambezi. For more information and trip suggestions call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email me directly at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

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When to go on safari

4th May 2023

When to go on safari

Just like with so many other things, inflationary trends have been affecting the safari space for several years now and we are anticipating increases of between 10% to as much as 18% for 2024, compared with the prices in effect for this year. Of course the best way to avoid any increases is to travel before the higher prices come into effect.  

Short of that, there are two main drivers of safari prices which can help you in the quest for an affordable yet high-quality African safari.  The two factors are place and season. Every safari destination in Africa has one or two prime locations and a handful of properties which command top dollar rates, particularly in the high demand season from about June through October. At that time of the year – in the prime safari areas – it is simply a matter of supply and demand and with as few rooms as they have available, prices can and do reach eye-watering levels.  

However, if you start looking for a trip at a different time and in a different place, the picture changes dramatically. You can go on safari in countries like Zimbabwe and Zambia at the peak of their high season and enjoy a fantastic trip which will be half the cost of a comparable trip in a country with more name recognition or a more established reputation. Likewise, the difference between high season and shoulder season pricing can be significant, with often only minor differences in the experience.  

The best prices are to be found for travel in the low demand season. Off-season travel in Africa can be immensely satisfying for visitors who can handle some heat and high humidity, and perhaps a thunderstorm or two. A little bit of discomfort is more than offset by the abundance of baby animals, the birds in breeding plumage, the lush, green surroundings, stunning sunsets and sunrises and by not having so many other people around.  

Here are our top recommendations for an African safari which will tick all the boxes: lots of animals, plenty of diversity, excellent guiding – at an affordable price.

SOUTH AFRICA AND NAMIBIA

South Africa is a veritable ‘world in one country’ with diversity that is rivaled only by Kenya. It has several excellent wildlife areas, most of which are malaria-free including the Eastern Cape, Waterberg and Madikwe. South Africa’s greater Kruger Park area has some of Africa’s best all-round safari camps in areas where the ‘Big Five’ mammals are seen practically every day of the year, week in and week out.  

Namibia leans more in the direction of a ‘desert and dune’ experience but the wildlife viewing in places such as Etosha in the north, the Waterberg Plateau, Damaraland and even on the edge of the Skeleton Coast such as along the Hoanib River, can be excellent. Namibia also has remarkable cultural diversity and a strong conservation ethos.

What is it that combines these two countries in my list of attractive safari propositions for the near future? The value of the South African Rand, of course. Hovering consistently around ZAR 18 to the US dollar and not likely to strengthen rapidly any time soon, the shrinking Rand creates excellent safari deals for dollar-wielding travelers. Not only in South Africa itself but also in neighboring Namibia whose currency – the Namibia dollar – is pegged at the same value as the South African Rand. 

SOUTH AFRICA TRIP IDEAS

There are a myriad of trip combinations which can be anchored by South Africa. It’s always a good idea to start your South Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city.’ Enjoy the local sights, two of which rank in Africa’s most celebrated natural wonders – Table Bay and Table Mountain. A little bit adventurous? Try the Platteklip hike up to the summit of Table Mountain and take the cable car trip down. Be sure to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (it’s a jewel), check out the endemic African penguins (Africa’s only penguin species) at Boulders Beach and take the funicular to the viewpoint at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.  

From Cape Town, fly to the greater Kruger Park area and spend a week on safari in a lodge of your choice – to fit your budget – in a private game reserve adjacent to the park. There are many options to choose from in areas like the Sabi Sand Reserve, Timbavati, Manyeleti and Thornybush. All of them are ‘Big Five’ reserves where you are likely to see elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and buffaloes over the course of a few days. And a lot else besides, of course.  Advantages of traveling here rather than some other destinations? Mostly the ability to drive off-road which can get you closer to some of the smaller cats and other special sightings, and also the ability to drive after the sun is down for a chance to see some of the nocturnal animals.

Instead of, or in addition to the Kruger Park area, you may wish to include some time in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region which also has abundant wildlife. Private game reserves like Kwandwe, Kariega and Shamwari are located in extraordinarily beautiful landscapes, filled with green rolling hills and valleys and patches of riverine forest, scrub and woodland. A bonus? This area is malaria-free so is ideal for families with young children or anyone wanting to avoid having to use malaria prophylaxis.  

Two other attractive safari destinations in South Africa include the Waterberg and Madikwe regions, both of which are also in malaria-free areas. Of course, it is easy to travel from South Africa into any of the neighboring countries including Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia.

NAMIBIA TRIP IDEAS

Namibia is very much a ‘desert and dune’ destination, with the area around Sossusvlei with its giant red sand dunes being considered Namibia’s signature sight. So by all means spend a couple of days there and marvel at the scene of a white gravel plain with apricot dunes in the background, an azure blue sky and stark, semi-fossilized trees providing a focal point for the quintessential Namibia photograph. 

Of course from there you’d want to go on safari and find some of the country’s signature animals such as the gemsbok, black-faced impala, springbok and Damara dik-dik. Together with elephants, black and white rhino, and the big cats. All of these and more can be found in the greater Etosha National Park area to the north and elsewhere. A little beyond the regular safari circuit lies the Skeleton Coast National Park which we regularly include on Namibia trips, either by having guests spend a few days at a camp on the edge of the park or right inside it, or by doing a fly-in safari which whisks guests from one enigmatic spot to another. There’s a lot more to Namibia including the quaint town of Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay harbor with bird-laden estuaries and worthwhile marine excursions, and remote safari camps in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. This is where guests can embark on day safaris in search of the elusive black rhino, a successful day culminating with the guests approaching the black rhinos on foot from a safe and respectful distance. There will be a small team from Namibia’s successful ‘Save the Rhino’ Trust on hand to provide background information on the success of the program, and the challenges ahead. 

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

Zimbabwe and Zambia are two of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. Prospects for Zimbabwe’s tourism sector have taken a much more positive turn now that the country is fully in the post-Mugabe era. Despite having a superior safari product, the Zimbabwe properties are not able to command the stellar pricing of some of its competitors – notably Botswana – Which creates opportunities for visitors to enjoy a fantastic safari – very much comparable to that of Botswana – at literally 50% of the Botswana cost, in the high season months from June through October.

Zambia is perhaps just not as well known as it should be and its safari season is quite short with many of its camps in the South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue regions being closed for the rainy season from November through the end of March. None of this affects the safari experience in Zambia. In fact, a Zambia safari delivers a wonderful all-round experience with none of the congestion of some of its most popular rivals and at a much lower price point. Zambia has even shelved its visa entry fee of $50 per person.

For Zimbabwe, our associates Imvelo Safaris have some  dazzling specials for the low-demand season, with great savings for families traveling with children and single travelers. These include a stay 7/pay 5 offer from November 2023 through March 2024 (except for the holidays) and a free private guide and vehicle for groups of four or more. There’s more: children under 18 will be accommodated free of charge (park fees and transfers only) on any stay of three nights or longer, from January 1 through the end of April 2024. Victoria Falls, Hwange, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools: a Zimbabwe trip is filled with excitement, big game, lots of optional activities such as boating, fishing, and foot safaris – for less than you might anticipate.  

Most Zimbabwe itineraries include two or more of the areas below, in no specific sequence:  

Victoria Falls – usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls & perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi. The Falls are an awesome sight in April and May particularly – when the Zambezi is in flood stage – but they are always worth seeing from the Zimbabwe side (main falls).  

Hwange National park – This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of elephants, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs. So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana, or for that matter Kenya. Rhinos have been re-introduced to the Hwange area which now (again, as in the past) makes the park a ‘Big Five’ destination. There’s more. Hwange has a couple of very special antelopes not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally interesting roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and dozens of other families of birds. Hwange is an ideal park for walking safaris, mostly because of the proficiency of the Zimbabwe professional guides, who are at their best on foot, rifle in hand. 

Mana Pools – Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game and African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too. Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis due to the relatively high cost of flying there. However we do offer some trips which include flying at no or reduced cost. There is a minimum stay requirement. Mana Pools has a well-deserved reputation for being an ideal park for foot safaris.  

Lake Kariba – and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake. A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba is a superb addition to almost any Zimbabwe trip. Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible. I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake where elephants and other animals can often be seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.  

The Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe. This region of Zimbabwe is another one where rhinos can be observed in the wild. Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of SE Utah. It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes. This area is spectacular, particularly at sunset. It is easy to move on to Hwange National Park from the Matobos by road.

For Zambia, I can think of no better trip than a 10-night Zambia exploration with Classic Zambia, priced at about $6,500 per person sharing in May and June, increasing to just over $8,000 per person sharing for the high season months from July through October. This would be a fantastic safari combining two of Africa’s finest and wildest wildlife areas, Kafue and the Lower Zambezi. Please call or email for detailed information about these and other safari options.  

Zambia is a massive country and it should come as no surprise that it has several excellent safari areas, notably the South Luangwa National Park, the Lower Zambezi National Park and the Kafue region. None of these are heavily visited and the Kafue – which is much bigger than South Africa’s vast Kruger National park – attracts about one tenth of the number of visitors of the Kruger. 

The South Luangwa National Park is known for its walking safaris and the chance to see a wide variety of animals such as elephants, lions and leopards. On a recent trip there we witnessed a crocodile trying to rob a hyena of its prey. It was a spellbinding scene observed by just us. No other vehicle showed up over the entire 30 minutes or so we spent at the sighting.  

The Lower Zambezi National Park is another popular destination, offering river safaris on the Zambezi and the opportunity to see hippos, crocodiles and abundant birdlife. For the adventurous traveler, I would recommend a canoe safari in one of the backwaters off the main river. It can be an adrenaline-inducing experience gliding by several hippos, your natural apprehension being somewhat assuaged by the fact that you have an experienced guide in control of the canoe.  

The Kafue National Park is the largest park in Zambia and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including elephants, lions and cheetahs. Several small, remote camps in the Kafue are ideal for a ‘back to basics’ experience where what matters most is what happens outside the tent. It is all about the wilderness experience, about observing the wildlife in their most natural setting, and being able to do it essentially with just your guide and the few other people in the vehicle with you.  

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Where to go on safari in 2022-23

19th November 2021

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

As the Covid pandemic retreats worldwide, thoughts turn to resuming life the way we once did, filled with family, friends, togetherness – and travel.

Picking up where we left off around March of 2020, we can once again dream and plan on visiting foreign shores.

As and when travelers resume planning trips to Africa, they soon find out that there are dozens of safari destinations and hundreds of combinations of camps and activities.

Fortunately, there are just a few golden rules for a happy and successful safari trip:

* Spend more time in fewer locations. Now more than ever it makes sense to take a single country trip with fewer, longer stops.

* If you have a good guide you can have a great safari almost anywhere, anytime.

* Smaller is always better than bigger when it comes to group size and camp size.

* You almost always get what you pay for; in the case of a good safari it is prime location, small camp, good guiding, privacy (private concessions, private guide & vehicle), all-inclusive pricing and an all-round quality experience with no unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few destinations we visited recently and which we think hold great appeal for the next couple of years, for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, all of these destinations are suitable for a single country trip, reducing the number of potential Covid tests and lessening the burden of entry formalities and hassles associated with border crossings.

ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe’s three prime game-viewing areas namely Hwange, Matusadona (Lake Kariba) and Mana Pools make a truly unbeatable safari combination with as much diversity as just about any other safari destination. You’d have to fly between some areas but even with the inclusion of flights, 10 days split between these three areas in the high season is still going to be 50% less than comparable camps in Botswana.

Start your trip in Victoria Falls for the views and an extraordinary range of adventure activities and consider including the Matobos for rhino viewing, terrific scenery, culture and history.

Zimbabwe is a classic African safari destination with excellent game-viewing, headlined by the presence of thousands of elephants in all of the major national parks, most notably Hwange which has in excess of 30,000 elephants. Add to that buffaloes, eland, plenty of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, special antelopes such as roan and sable and a good variety of cats and you end up with a first-class game-viewing destination.

KENYA
There is simply nowhere better for a first safari than Kenya. Why? Diversity of habitats, abundance of animals and wide-open plains making game-viewing relatively easy and rewarding. Add to that a well-functioning tourism infrastructure, super-friendly people and a wide range of accommodations catering to every taste and budget. Kenya is easy to get to from the USA via Europe or the Middle East, or on a non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, currently operating several days per week.

I would be very hard pressed to think of a 10-day safari that offers nearly as much to see and experience as a combination of Amboseli (no place better for elephants & views of Kilimanjaro); Lewa or Samburu (spectacular endemics such as Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra & beautiful ‘out of Africa’ views) and the Masai Mara, for simply the best game-viewing in Africa. This can be done on a fly-in basis with any start date. Shoulder months such as June and November offer excellent value for money.

WESTERN TANZANIA AND THE SERENGETI
Prefer to be away from the ‘maddening crowds’ and able to handle some long flights and the occasional bit of discomfort in pursuit of authenticity and excitement? If so, then Tanzania and specifically a combination of the Serengeti, Tarangire and Katavi National Park in far western Tanzania would be ideal.

What to expect? Mostly small, remote camps with few other people, excellent game-viewing and superb birding plus simply the best chimpanzee treks in all of Africa, at Mahale Mountains National Park. The addition of a few days in Katavi National Park elevates this from a great trip to an outstanding one. This remote park is an unvarnished slice of African wilderness where the dry season pushes its large hippo population to the limits of endurance. Big herds of buffalo, elephant, plenty of predators – Katavi has it all and there’s few other people around.

The ideal itinerary for this combination would have 4 or 5 nights in the Serengeti (which can be split between the northern and central region), 3 nights at Greystoke Camp in the Mahale Mountains National Park and 4 nights at Chada Katavi. Stay a little longer by adding a couple of nights at Ngorongoro Crater at the start of the trip.

SOUTHERN TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR
For another remote and very private Africa experience, I would recommend a combination of 4 nights in the Ruaha National Park in south-central Tanzania (Nomad’s Kigelia, Asilia’s Kwihala or Jabala Ridge or Mwagusi Camp) plus one or two camps in the Selous Game Reserve (Sand Rivers – sublime) and perhaps Beho-Beho (on our Groundhog Day list). And then add a few days in Zanzibar at the end, a combination of Stone Town and one of the beach resorts. If pressed for time, a couple of nights in Stone Town would suffice as long as you include a half day walking tour of Stone Town (must do) and possibly an outing to Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Red Colobus monkeys and the Mangroves. The Spice Tour is a bit touristy but highly entertaining and educational.

ZAMBIA
Zambia is huge and with three premier safari areas – South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue – it has an amazing diversity of scenery, habitat and activities. Walking is central to the experience everywhere yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. They do the walking excursions mostly early in the morning as it can and does get hot later in the day.

Some of the best areas in Zambia like the Kafue and Lower Zambezi are considerably better later in the dry season, so my recommendation would be to travel there from July through October. It does get hot and dry then but definitely worth it for the concentration of elephants and other wildlife, close to water.

In terms of game-viewing, the highlights in the Kafue National Park include lions and leopards. The latter are well represented at Musekese Camp (which we highly recommend visiting) where there are 17 leopards in the area just around the camp. On a visit earlier this year, we saw two females interacting which is highly unusual. All the leopards have individual designations and their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied.

The South Luangwa National Park is also known for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are multiple thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost never quite out of hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. We are partial to the Shenton camps (Kaingo and Mwamba) as well as the Bushcamp Company and Time & Tide properties. They all offer a slightly different experience – depending on location and season – but all are excellent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park offers a distinctively different experience and setting, with most of the camps located on the banks of the Zambezi. So in addition to game drives (day and early evening), you can also do boating and canoeing, as well as walking. From August onwards the seeds of the Winterthorn trees start to drop, which attracts dozens of elephants day and night. The pods are like candy to them. This is best seen and experienced at the camps west of Jeki Airstrip, being Old Mondoro, the Tusk & Mane camps and Anabezi.

The area around Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi is impossibly atmospheric and there is just nowhere else like it. Tusk and Mane’s Kutali and Chula camps are rustic with bucket showers (having proper flush toilets) but the experience is as ‘classic safari’ as it gets.

The canoeing experience on the Lower Zambezi is amazing as well. We saw about 50 hippos on a three hour canoe outing and elephants crossed the channel in front of us and behind us. All in all an action packed outing with a few jolts of adrenaline here and there, yet I felt quite safe due to the expert guiding. Boating on the Kafue and the Zambezi rivers adds yet another facet to the Zambia experience. The two rivers are so different yet I found both of them to be fascinating given the immense flow of water and the importance they have to the wildlife areas in Zambia.

At any time of the year, the vehicle density in Zambia – except in the Mfuwe area – is lower than anywhere else. The camps are really small, mostly with just 4 or 5 tents. In areas like the Lower Zambezi and Kafue the experience is like being on your own private African safari.

BOTSWANA
I have not changed my mind about Botswana being among the very best safari destinations of any. On a recent trip which included Chief’s Island in the Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, we again experienced Botswana’s abundance of wildlife, beautiful scenery and friendly people.

On our very first game drive out of Chief’s Camp we saw African painted dogs, lions and cheetahs. That set the pace for the entire trip, with buffaloes on our arrival at Eagle Island Lodge, a couple of baby leopards there, interaction between two sets of male lions at Xigera Safari Camp and ending with a mother and baby pair of white rhinos at Dinaka, in the Kalahari. And of course all the plains game including plentiful giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, lechwes, gemsbok, springbok, tsessebe, steenbok, a myriad of hippos and more.

Botswana has gotten quite pricey – especially from June through the end of October (high season), but you don’t have to spend weeks here to have a fantastic time on safari. Seven to nine nights total on safari is more than adequate. For a longer trip, add on a few days in Zimbabwe or South Africa. To keep the price manageable, consider going in the low-demand season, from November through the end of March. If you spend a bit more time in fewer areas (to give yourself a little more time and opportunity to find some of the elusive species like leopards and cheetahs), it can be every bit as good as the high season.

Some visitors – notably photographers – consider the low season to be the best time of the year, bar none. Why? There are lots of baby animals around (notably hundreds of baby impalas) which stimulates predator activity. Just about every day, you will experience gorgeous sunrises and sunsets due to the presence of some clouds. There are many bird species in breeding plumage, and lots of summer migrant bird species present, including the strident woodland kingfisher, several species of shrikes, bee-eaters, orioles, wading birds, birds of prey and many more. The animals are generally in good condition at this time of the year due to abundant food sources, and the green vegetation creates beautiful backdrops. The bottom line? Travel to Botswana in the low demand season and enjoy superb game-viewing and exceptionally good photography conditions at much lower prices, with far fewer other visitors around. Call or email us for information about several superb low-demand season trip itineraries and cost estimates.

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

24th June 2021

Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist


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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

I first visited Zimbabwe – when I was a senior in college – to attend a tiger fishing tournament at Charara, on Lake Kariba in 1974.  At the time Zimbabwe was still known as Rhodesia – it would gain its independence from Great Britain several years later, in 1980.  The Zimbabwe of the mid-1970’s was a very different place on many levels to what it is today.  Some things never change though and what appealed to me about Zimbabwe at the time, still holds true.  The friendliest people, ‘from the heart’ hospitality and spectacular natural beauty and wildlife, in the most African of settings imaginable.


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We first started sending our guests to Zimbabwe in the early 1990’s and I don’t think anybody has returned from there who has not had their expectations met or exceeded.  Now, 30 years later, we still rate Zimbabwe highly as an excellent ‘value for money’ destination.  I always say that it offers pretty much what Botswana does, at half the price, in the high season.  It is also an attractive proposition for the shoulder season (April & May and November).  Even so, November can be quite hot with afternoon temperatures rising well in the 90’s F.


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Right now,  Zimbabwe is an ideal safari destination because of its safety and diversity.  It is practically the only Southern Africa destination which is at Level 2 (extra caution) on the US State Department travel advisory status.  And it is getting easier to reach:  Qatar Airlines is set to launch four weekly flights from Doha into Harare, likely starting on August 6 2021.  This Boeing Dreamliner service will be via Lusaka, Zambia and will make it much easier than before to include Mana Pools in a Zimbabwe itinerary.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on Ngamo Plains March 2021

Another strong advantage which Zimbabwe has over many other safari destinations, is that it is ideal for a ‘one country’ trip, with plenty of diversity, making it possible to put together a trip of 10 days or so with an unbeatable mix of wildlife viewing, adventure activities, cultural interaction and scenery.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – canoeing on the Bomani concession

Many visitors start or end in Victoria Falls.  Usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls and perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi.  The Falls are an awesome sight in March, April and May particularly but always nice to see – any time of the year – from the main falls on the Zimbabwe side.


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Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination.  This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area.  We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two.  In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs.

Ellerman House


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So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya.  Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic Sable antelope and the equally interesting Roan antelope.  Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals.  The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other families of birds.  It is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on the Hwange railroad tracks

Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe.  Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game & African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail.  Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too.  Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis, due to the relatively high cost of flying there.  The introduction of international flights into Harare will help to offset that.  Mana Pools is known as an ideal park for foot safaris.


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Lake Kariba and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake, is yet another attractive option for inclusion in a Zimbabwe itinerary.  A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba will enhance almost any Zimbabwe trip.  Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible.  I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake, where elephants and other animals are often seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.

Legendary Lodge


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Last but not least, it’s worth considering spending some time in the Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe.  If you definitely want to see rhinos in the wild, then this is the place to include on your itinerary, before moving on to Hwange.  Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of South-eastern Utah.  It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes.  This area – which Rhodes referred to as ‘World’s View’ is spectacular, particularly at sunset.


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In our blog post next week we will take a look at a couple of Zimbabwe safari camps which we rate very highly, and have elevated to our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Little Makalolo in Hwange and Chikwenya in Mana Pools.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

28th May 2021

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them


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Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

My first vivid recollection of African painted dogs is from my childhood, when my siblings and I first started to see these fascinating creatures on self-drive safaris with our parents,  inside Kruger National Park in South Africa.  Even that many years ago, the painted dogs – also known as ‘wild dogs’ or Cape hunting dogs – were scarce and thinly spread and to see them was a special treat.  The park authorities encouraged visitors to report all sightings – which we duly did.  We spent a couple of weeks or so in Kruger Park almost every winter for several years, yet I can only recall seeing the ‘wilde honde’ – Afrikaans for wild dogs – on a handful of occasions.  


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Most memorably, we saw a small pack of painted dogs one afternoon – in the northern part of the park – encircle and attempt to bring down an adult sable antelope.  Those of you familiar with sable antelopes will know that these animals possess an impressive pair of long, curved horns with sharp tips.  On this day, as we kids and of course mother and father, were watching totally spellbound, the sable antelope wedged its vulnerable hind quarters into a thick bush and faced off the repeatedly charging painted dogs.


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Every time one of the dogs would stray a little too close, the sable would viciously swing at it with its scythe-like horns, evoking quick evasive moves on the part of the dog.  One after another, the painted dogs would dart in and out, apparently trying to rattle the sable into bolting.  We realized early on that this hunting attempt was doomed to fail, with an adult sable antelope simply being too much to handle for a small pack of painted dogs.  The dogs figured it out too and after a few more desultory charges, they gave up and trundled off into the bush.


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Memories like these go into the ‘indelible’ category and witnessing this play out in front of your very own eyes is what makes wildlife observation – particularly in an African setting with the interaction between predators and prey – as popular and enduring a pastime as it has proven to be.

Seeing and enjoying – and helping to protect and conserve these endangered mammals – continue to be a part of what motivates and inspires many of us in the photographic safari industry.

African painted dogs have been listed as endangered since 1990, with an estimated total population of just over 6,000 of these animals surviving in about 40 subpopulations, all threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, human persecution and disease.


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Painted dogs in Botswana

Most of the painted dogs that can readily be seen in the wilderness, are to be found in Southern Africa and more specifically in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. In Botswana, their core area is Ngamiland which includes the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Chobe National Park.  There are estimated to be about 40 or so packs of painted dogs in Northern Botswana, containing around 450 to 500 animals in total. 


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Some time ago, on a game drive out of Dumatau, the Wilderness Safaris property in the Chobe-Linyanti area, we experienced what one might describe as a typical african painted dog scenario:  Our afternoon game drive with our Dumatau guide started on a high note. Not long into the drive, we came across an african painted dog pack of nine, resting up and lolling about in a loose group, a couple of the younger ones coming right up to take a look at our vehicle. Over the following few minutes their demeanor changed from relaxed and inquisitive to alert and focused as they started hunting.


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We followed the main group as they rambled through the bush, slowly increasing their speed to a steady trot. Soon, the dogs were moving rapidly through fairly dense woodland, changing direction once or twice, but heading in the general direction of the floodplain. Two hyenas could also be seen, following the dogs, in the hope of a ‘free meal’, no doubt. By this time, there were two vehicles in radio contact ‘working’ the hunt, one trying to maintain visual contact with the dogs, and the other one anticipating the direction and speed of the chase. As it happened, we were in the lead towards the end.


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As we emerged from the tree-line and descended onto the edge of the floodplain, in a cloud of dust, we came upon the painted dogs just seconds after they had brought down an impala ram. It was a scene of primeval intensity as they devoured their prey, the sound of their teeth tearing the skin and ripping at the sinews all that could be heard other than our muttered exclamations of amazement and awe. Within the space of just five minutes or so the impala was reduced to little more than backbone, skull and horns. We sat there for the longest time just taking it all in, waiting for the last light of dusk to fade away before we slowly made our way back to camp, for dinner”.

Legendary Lodge


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Some time later, we were back at Dumatau and on the drive from Chobe airstrip to Dumatau, one of the other passengers mentioned to our guide Ron Masule (head guide at Dumatau) that the only signature Botswana species which I had not seen thus far on my trip, was painted dog. So, he said, ‘Ron better find us some dogs…!’ It didn’t take long. Just after tea we headed out of camp to a spot where the painted dogs had been spotted the previous day. Within 20 minutes or so, I had my first view of what turned out to be a pack of about 7 of these magnificent animals. After negotiating some very rough terrain we stopped on the edge of a small seasonal waterhole where the painted dogs were resting up and settling in for the night. In the fading light, I was happy to get a few good photographs.


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Something interesting which I learnt that day, was that various birds, notably the bateleur eagle and the hooded vulture, are closely associated with painted dog sightings.  The bateleurs because they want to snag a morsel of meat left behind from the kill, the hooded vultures for a rather more obscure reason.  They are coprophagic so the high-protein droppings of the painted dogs are simply a food item to them.  Whatever.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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On another visit to Botswana, on a game drive out of Kwando Safaris’ Kwara Camp, we had been looking for the painted dogs for nearly two days solid, finding and then losing their tracks repeatedly.  On our last morning there, we were hot on their trail again, but somehow, frustratingly, could just not close the gap.  

At around 3:00 pm or so, we stopped at a small pond for a tea and coffee break.  Having gotten out of the vehicle, we were standing around chit-chatting when, from the corner of my eye, I noticed one and then several wild dogs running out of the woodland towards the water. The wild dogs had found us! We spent the next hour in their company. There were six in total, which is about average for a painted dog pack.


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Having followed the six wild dogs for a while, we saw them resting up in a grove of Kalahari apple-leaf trees. There were 2 females and 4 males. Again, typical of a painted dog pack which is almost always ‘male-heavy’ as it is the females which leave the pack, when it gets too big or when conditions merit, to become the founder of a new pack.  The males stay put.  These very handsome animals were quite oblivious to our presence. As is their habit, they engaged in some horseplay, or perhaps more correctly – canine capers. I recall shooting about 200 mediocre shots of African painted dogs. A couple or so turned out ok.


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Painted dog behavior and social structure

A Botswana property where we had seen the African painted dogs on more than one location, is Lagoon Camp, which lived up to prior billing as ‘the’ wild dog camp in N. Botswana. We twice bumped into a large pack of dogs there, watching them feed on an impala and observing their strict but amiable social structure, with the pups eating first, then the alpha dogs and finally the others.


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This is typical behavior for the painted dogs, which are highly social animals.  Breeding is limited to the alpha female, who stays close to the pups in the den, and who discourages pack members from visiting them until they are old enough to eat solid food at three to four weeks of age.  By the time the pups are about five weeks old, they start to eat meat regurgitated by pack members.  When the pups reach the age of about 10 weeks, the den is abandoned and the youngsters – who by now resemble adults in every way – follow the adults around on hunts.  This is when they are allowed to eat first, until they are about a year old.


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Together with cheetahs, the African painted dogs are the only primarily diurnal  large African predators. We’ve seen them hunt well past sunset, as well.   African painted dogs have a high hunting success rate and their average of kills as a percentage of attempts exceeds that of both lions and leopards.  The species which feature highest on the painted dogs’ menu are kudu, impala, Thomson’s gazelle (east Africa), bushbuck, reedbuck, lechwe and blue wildebeest.  We have personally observed them taking a hare, proving that they will kill pretty much anything they come across.


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Painted dogs elsewhere in Africa

Two other areas which are good for African painted dogs are the greater Kruger Park in South Africa and Zimbabwe, notably in Hwange National Park and also Mana Pools National Park.  Some of the best camps in the Kruger Park area to visit, to give yourself a decent change at coming across the dogs, are MalaMala, Kirkmans, Singita, Savanna and Dulini in the Sabi Sand Reserve, as well as Kings Camp, Tanda Tula and Kambaku River Sands in the Timbavati Reserve.  In Zimbabwe, we have encountered the painted dogs on game drives from Little Makalolo, Linkwasha, Bomani in Hwange and Chikwenya and Ruckomechi in Mana Pools.


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In our blog post next week, we will take a look at a few of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties in Southern and East Africa.  Places where we’d be happy to wake up every morning, for the rest of our lives…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

9th October 2020

Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs


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Cheetahs, cheetahs, cheetahs

For many visitors to Africa, seeing the big cats is #1 on their wish list.  Nobody wants to go home only to have to say ‘no’ to the inevitable question about having seen lions.  Even though the total number of lions in Africa have dropped alarmingly over the last few decades – largely due to habitat loss – they are still relatively easily seen in most wilderness areas.  Lions are also prolific breeders under the right conditions – with enough prey animals around – so they bounce back quickly and predictably after setbacks such as prolonged droughts.  Which means that on your next – or first – trip to Africa, you will almost definitely bump into lions if you spend a few days in practically any major game reserve or national park.  In Southern or East Africa.  So, did you see lions?  Yes.


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Other big cats are less frequently seen.  Leopards are supremely adaptable creatures and they are common in almost any non-urban African habitat except true deserts.  What makes them difficult to find and observe is their naturally elusive, shy and mostly nocturnal nature.  They are mostly solitary and stealthy creatures of the night. That is when they are out and about in search of prey such as unsuspecting smaller antelope, monkeys, baboons and the like.  Consequently, visitors see them mostly very early in the mornings or in the late afternoon, when they start to get active after resting up.  In areas where they are habituated to the presence of vehicles, such as the Sabi Sand reserve in South Africa, in parts of the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, in private concessions in Northern Botswana and at Mashatu in south-eastern Botswana, they are more readily seen as they don’t conceal themselves at the first sign of vehicles, movement or humans.  


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The other big African cat – the cheetah – is in a different league altogether.  It has a relatively tiny total population of about 7,000 in comparison with lions (approximately 25,000) and leopards (approximately 700,000).  Despite being as sparsely distributed as they are, cheetahs are quite visible where present, due to their diurnal nature and preferred habitat.  Cheetahs are adapted to hunt during the day which reduces competition from the nocturnal big cats, notably lions.  Cheetahs also prefer open terrain where they can use their amazing speed to its best advantage.  And they will often clamber onto anthills or stumps or other elevated spots to check out the area for potential prey – or danger.  Open terrain, broad daylight, a spotted cat perched on top of an anthill?  Bingo!  For me personally, a cheetah sighting is a highlight of any Africa trip.  They are just so rare, so beautiful and so special that even a brief glimpse of one of them will make your day.  

Here are some photos we took of cheetahs in six different areas in Southern and East Africa where they are regularly seen.  The captions summarize the back story about each photo and how it came to be.


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Selinda, Northern Botswana

This cheetah was part of a coalition of two brothers which used to move up and down along the Linyanti River in northern Botswana, spending weeks or sometimes months in an area.  For no apparent reason, they would then move along to a neighboring concession.  Less competition from lions or hyenas, more prey animals?  Who knows.  The reasons are hardly ever readily apparent.  The day on which we bumped into this particular cheetah and his brother, marked the first sighting of cheetahs on a game drive from Selinda, in several weeks.  So essentially, we got lucky. Being in the right habitat and spending enough time scanning open terrain along the Linyanti floodplain, just improved our luck somewhat.  We would get even luckier later that day, when we saw the cheetah coalition hunt and bring down an impala.  My advice to anyone wanting to see a cheetah kill?  Bring your best patience game as cheetahs take their time sizing up the area, the conditions and whatever their instinct dictates.  It took the brothers the better part of four hours to finally attempt a charge.  They were successful though.  Cheetahs are the most efficient of the big cats in terms of hunting success, bringing down about 40% to 50% of prey, as a percentage of total attempts.  By comparison leopards are successful about 30% to 40% of the time.  Lions bring up the rear in a significant way, being successful less than 20% of the time.  


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Tswalu, South Africa

Tswalu in the northern Cape Kalahari in South Africa is better known as one of the best places in Africa to see pangolins and aardvarks, but it is no slouch for some of the big cats, notably lions and cheetahs.  On our most recent visit to Tswalu (we will be returning this November) Kathy had set aside one afternoon to do some horseback riding.  We were at the stables and she was just about to set off into the veld with one of Tswalu’s beautiful steeds, when word came on the radio that a couple of cheetahs had been spotted.  Kathy and I looked at each other and there was no disagreement:  the horses would have to wait for another day.  It was a longish drive to get to the cheetahs, with the light fading fast by the time we pulled up to them.  Even so, the decision was the right one.  Looking in our direction in the gathering gloom, the cheetah’s ordinarily yellow eyes shone almost red.  The sighting would be brief but eminently memorable. 


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Masai Mara, Kenya

When I first saw these cheetahs on a game drive out of Mara Explorer Camp, one of the cheetahs had jumped on top of a game drive vehicle from Mara Intrepids.  I do not like to see behavior like that: it should have been prevented by the Mara Intrepids driver-guide.  The guides in the area are all aware of the propensity of some of the cheetahs to try to use the vehicle as an observation post.  And the guides know to avoid an incident, by staying clear of ‘known perpetrators’.  It is potentially dangerous for the guests and for the cheetahs.  Getting bitten or getting run over, respectively.  Too risky all round.  We left the scene, deciding to rather return early the next morning.  It made all the difference.  We had the cheetahs to ourselves for the better part of an hour, observing them walking around and getting onto anthills – not vehicles.  The way it should be.  


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Serengeti Plains, Tanzania

Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and its northernmost extension, the Masai Mara in Kenya, are likely Africa’s single best repository of cheetahs.  This is their habitat par excellence.  Open, rolling grassy plains with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and riverine thickets, and plenty of prey in the form of Thomson’s gazelles and impala.  Irrespective of the status of the annual wildebeest migration, the Serengeti and the Mara are great for the big cats, who have territories to defend and who do not move around with the wildebeest and the zebras.  In fact, on the day we saw this cheetah on a game drive out of Nomad Tanzania’s Lamai Serengeti Camp, we experienced a rare big cat trifecta:  lions, leopards and a cheetah.  All in one game drive, not during the migration season.  Other parts of the Serengeti where we have experienced above-average cheetah sightings include the southern Serengeti (Kusini camp) and the western Seronera area (Namiri Plains camp). 


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Hwange, Zimbabwe

Since we regularly started visiting Hwange National Park in north-western Zimbabwe in the 1990’s, we’ve come to recognize it as a good and reliable area for cheetah sightings.  Just like elsewhere in Africa, the Hwange cheetahs move around and can’t always be seen in the same spots.  So if you’re keen on seeing cheetahs on a trip to Zimbabwe, we would suggest including two different camps, such as Somalisa or The Hide or Khulu Bush Camp, combined with Little Makalolo or Linkwasha or Camelthorn.  And give yourself plenty of time to find the cheetahs; five to six nights in the area would be ideal.  This trio of young cheetahs were following their mother around and getting a lesson in patience.  She wanted them to stay back and stay low while she approached some antelope.  It was not to be.  They kept showing themselves and following too closely behind her.  Which naturally spooked the antelope. All in a day of growing up.  


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Mashatu, Botswana

Mashatu Game Reserve in far south-eastern Botswana is currently one of the best big cat destinations in Southern Africa.   Spend three or better yet four nights there and you will most likely get to see lions, leopards and cheetahs.  And not furtive ‘drive-by’ sightings either.  On a recent September visit to the area, we had multiple good sightings of both lions and leopards, and notched up two different cheetah sightings in the course of a 3-night stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  What makes Mashatu a particularly good bet for cheetahs – and other big cats – is the fact that off-road driving is allowed which means that you can get quite close to these magnificent cats.  For photographers this is a major advantage over many other areas where vehicles are not permitted off-road.  Also, compared with most other good big-cat destinations, the Mashatu properties namely Mashatu Lodge, Mashatu Tented Camp and Euphorbia are moderately priced – at about half the cost of camps of similar quality in northern Botswana.  We recommend combining a 3-night WalkMashatu foot safari with a few days at one of the Mashatu camps, to make the most of the area.  


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on one of the most popular and also instantly recognizable African mammals, the Giraffe.  There will be photographs, of course, as well as some information about places where they can be seen.  We will also review the various species you are likely to encounter in Southern and East Africa, and their conservation status.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

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Botswana
Destinations
Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

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Area
Destinations
Nyerere National Park
Ruaha
Tanzania

14th October 2023

From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

Birds in flight and wildlife photographers have an uneasy relationship. Things go wrong as often as they go right. Getting focus-lock on a moving subject

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READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

Read more
Botswana
Destinations

4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

What is the ‘secret sauce’ for an unforgettable few days on safari in Botswana? It starts with the animals, of course. The elephants, lions, giraffes, hippos

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Destinations
India

27th May 2023

India

India’s tiger, mammals and birds.

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