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Botswana

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

19th November 2021

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

As the Covid pandemic retreats worldwide, thoughts turn to resuming life the way we once did, filled with family, friends, togetherness – and travel.

Picking up where we left off around March of 2020, we can once again dream and plan on visiting foreign shores.

As and when travelers resume planning trips to Africa, they soon find out that there are dozens of safari destinations and hundreds of combinations of camps and activities.

Fortunately, there are just a few golden rules for a happy and successful safari trip:

* Spend more time in fewer locations. Now more than ever it makes sense to take a single country trip with fewer, longer stops.

* If you have a good guide you can have a great safari almost anywhere, anytime.

* Smaller is always better than bigger when it comes to group size and camp size.

* You almost always get what you pay for; in the case of a good safari it is prime location, small camp, good guiding, privacy (private concessions, private guide & vehicle), all-inclusive pricing and an all-round quality experience with no unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few destinations we visited recently and which we think hold great appeal for the next couple of years, for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, all of these destinations are suitable for a single country trip, reducing the number of potential Covid tests and lessening the burden of entry formalities and hassles associated with border crossings.

ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe’s three prime game-viewing areas namely Hwange, Matusadona (Lake Kariba) and Mana Pools make a truly unbeatable safari combination with as much diversity as just about any other safari destination. You’d have to fly between some areas but even with the inclusion of flights, 10 days split between these three areas in the high season is still going to be 50% less than comparable camps in Botswana.

Start your trip in Victoria Falls for the views and an extraordinary range of adventure activities and consider including the Matobos for rhino viewing, terrific scenery, culture and history.

Zimbabwe is a classic African safari destination with excellent game-viewing, headlined by the presence of thousands of elephants in all of the major national parks, most notably Hwange which has in excess of 30,000 elephants. Add to that buffaloes, eland, plenty of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, special antelopes such as roan and sable and a good variety of cats and you end up with a first-class game-viewing destination.

KENYA
There is simply nowhere better for a first safari than Kenya. Why? Diversity of habitats, abundance of animals and wide-open plains making game-viewing relatively easy and rewarding. Add to that a well-functioning tourism infrastructure, super-friendly people and a wide range of accommodations catering to every taste and budget. Kenya is easy to get to from the USA via Europe or the Middle East, or on a non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, currently operating several days per week.

I would be very hard pressed to think of a 10-day safari that offers nearly as much to see and experience as a combination of Amboseli (no place better for elephants & views of Kilimanjaro); Lewa or Samburu (spectacular endemics such as Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra & beautiful ‘out of Africa’ views) and the Masai Mara, for simply the best game-viewing in Africa. This can be done on a fly-in basis with any start date. Shoulder months such as June and November offer excellent value for money.

WESTERN TANZANIA AND THE SERENGETI
Prefer to be away from the ‘maddening crowds’ and able to handle some long flights and the occasional bit of discomfort in pursuit of authenticity and excitement? If so, then Tanzania and specifically a combination of the Serengeti, Tarangire and Katavi National Park in far western Tanzania would be ideal.

What to expect? Mostly small, remote camps with few other people, excellent game-viewing and superb birding plus simply the best chimpanzee treks in all of Africa, at Mahale Mountains National Park. The addition of a few days in Katavi National Park elevates this from a great trip to an outstanding one. This remote park is an unvarnished slice of African wilderness where the dry season pushes its large hippo population to the limits of endurance. Big herds of buffalo, elephant, plenty of predators – Katavi has it all and there’s few other people around.

The ideal itinerary for this combination would have 4 or 5 nights in the Serengeti (which can be split between the northern and central region), 3 nights at Greystoke Camp in the Mahale Mountains National Park and 4 nights at Chada Katavi. Stay a little longer by adding a couple of nights at Ngorongoro Crater at the start of the trip.

SOUTHERN TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR
For another remote and very private Africa experience, I would recommend a combination of 4 nights in the Ruaha National Park in south-central Tanzania (Nomad’s Kigelia, Asilia’s Kwihala or Jabala Ridge or Mwagusi Camp) plus one or two camps in the Selous Game Reserve (Sand Rivers – sublime) and perhaps Beho-Beho (on our Groundhog Day list). And then add a few days in Zanzibar at the end, a combination of Stone Town and one of the beach resorts. If pressed for time, a couple of nights in Stone Town would suffice as long as you include a half day walking tour of Stone Town (must do) and possibly an outing to Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Red Colobus monkeys and the Mangroves. The Spice Tour is a bit touristy but highly entertaining and educational.

ZAMBIA
Zambia is huge and with three premier safari areas – South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue – it has an amazing diversity of scenery, habitat and activities. Walking is central to the experience everywhere yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. They do the walking excursions mostly early in the morning as it can and does get hot later in the day.

Some of the best areas in Zambia like the Kafue and Lower Zambezi are considerably better later in the dry season, so my recommendation would be to travel there from July through October. It does get hot and dry then but definitely worth it for the concentration of elephants and other wildlife, close to water.

In terms of game-viewing, the highlights in the Kafue National Park include lions and leopards. The latter are well represented at Musekese Camp (which we highly recommend visiting) where there are 17 leopards in the area just around the camp. On a visit earlier this year, we saw two females interacting which is highly unusual. All the leopards have individual designations and their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied.

The South Luangwa National Park is also known for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are multiple thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost never quite out of hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. We are partial to the Shenton camps (Kaingo and Mwamba) as well as the Bushcamp Company and Time & Tide properties. They all offer a slightly different experience – depending on location and season – but all are excellent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park offers a distinctively different experience and setting, with most of the camps located on the banks of the Zambezi. So in addition to game drives (day and early evening), you can also do boating and canoeing, as well as walking. From August onwards the seeds of the Winterthorn trees start to drop, which attracts dozens of elephants day and night. The pods are like candy to them. This is best seen and experienced at the camps west of Jeki Airstrip, being Old Mondoro, the Tusk & Mane camps and Anabezi.

The area around Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi is impossibly atmospheric and there is just nowhere else like it. Tusk and Mane’s Kutali and Chula camps are rustic with bucket showers (having proper flush toilets) but the experience is as ‘classic safari’ as it gets.

The canoeing experience on the Lower Zambezi is amazing as well. We saw about 50 hippos on a three hour canoe outing and elephants crossed the channel in front of us and behind us. All in all an action packed outing with a few jolts of adrenaline here and there, yet I felt quite safe due to the expert guiding. Boating on the Kafue and the Zambezi rivers adds yet another facet to the Zambia experience. The two rivers are so different yet I found both of them to be fascinating given the immense flow of water and the importance they have to the wildlife areas in Zambia.

At any time of the year, the vehicle density in Zambia – except in the Mfuwe area – is lower than anywhere else. The camps are really small, mostly with just 4 or 5 tents. In areas like the Lower Zambezi and Kafue the experience is like being on your own private African safari.

BOTSWANA
I have not changed my mind about Botswana being among the very best safari destinations of any. On a recent trip which included Chief’s Island in the Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, we again experienced Botswana’s abundance of wildlife, beautiful scenery and friendly people.

On our very first game drive out of Chief’s Camp we saw African painted dogs, lions and cheetahs. That set the pace for the entire trip, with buffaloes on our arrival at Eagle Island Lodge, a couple of baby leopards there, interaction between two sets of male lions at Xigera Safari Camp and ending with a mother and baby pair of white rhinos at Dinaka, in the Kalahari. And of course all the plains game including plentiful giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, lechwes, gemsbok, springbok, tsessebe, steenbok, a myriad of hippos and more.

Botswana has gotten quite pricey – especially from June through the end of October (high season), but you don’t have to spend weeks here to have a fantastic time on safari. Seven to nine nights total on safari is more than adequate. For a longer trip, add on a few days in Zimbabwe or South Africa. To keep the price manageable, consider going in the low-demand season, from November through the end of March. If you spend a bit more time in fewer areas (to give yourself a little more time and opportunity to find some of the elusive species like leopards and cheetahs), it can be every bit as good as the high season.

Some visitors – notably photographers – consider the low season to be the best time of the year, bar none. Why? There are lots of baby animals around (notably hundreds of baby impalas) which stimulates predator activity. Just about every day, you will experience gorgeous sunrises and sunsets due to the presence of some clouds. There are many bird species in breeding plumage, and lots of summer migrant bird species present, including the strident woodland kingfisher, several species of shrikes, bee-eaters, orioles, wading birds, birds of prey and many more. The animals are generally in good condition at this time of the year due to abundant food sources, and the green vegetation creates beautiful backdrops. The bottom line? Travel to Botswana in the low demand season and enjoy superb game-viewing and exceptionally good photography conditions at much lower prices, with far fewer other visitors around. Call or email us for information about several superb low-demand season trip itineraries and cost estimates.

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How to book a better safari

11th November 2021

How to book a better safari

Fish Eagle Safaris’ owner Bert Duplessis and his team at Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. have been helping people plan their African safari trips for more than 30 years, since 1990. Based on all those years of experience and having travelled to practically every major safari destination in Africa themselves – repeatedly – here are their suggestions for making your first – or next – trip as good as it can be.

SPEND MORE TIME IN FEWER AREAS
Making just one change to your African safari itinerary is almost guaranteed to improve it. Spending more days in fewer places. Trying to do too much and cover too much ground on a single Africa trip is a rookie mistake and one you don ‘t have to make. Rushing around from one area to the next is frustrating from a logistical perspective (packing, unpacking, living out of a suitcase), and it costs more on a ‘per diem’ basis due to additional flights, transfers, visas and other expenses. Many properties offer long-stay discounts where they will include one free night if you stay for four, or variations on that theme. Slow down to save money – and enjoy the ride.

Africa is at heart a slow continent, best suited for exploring at a leisurely pace, in keeping with the ambiance of the wilderness which is anything but frenetic. Things happen when they happen. The animals do not have set schedules and they move around in real time. Allow yourself plenty of time to find and see them. Soon enough, you will start understanding and even anticipating behavior and gain insight into how different species interact, both within their own group and towards others. Few things in the wilderness are as fascinating as watching animal interaction such as when one elephant herd encounters another one. It can be amiable – if they have familiar bonds – or tense, if they don’t.

Of course, I soon found out that they were experienced safari aficionados who had traveled all over Africa. They knew exactly what they were up to. They took a day trip up the Rufiji River to Stiegler’s Gorge (still one of my all-time favorite African experiences), spent one night out on a fly-camping expedition, spent a half day fishing, and did not feel compelled to go out on every game drive. When the mood struck them, they’d rather take some time to enjoy the unique pleasure of simply watching the Rufiji River rushing by on its way to the Indian Ocean. With perhaps a cocktail or an icy cold Kilimanjaro lager in hand.

With several full days in any given area, many good things happen. For one thing, you develop a better understanding of the location of a property, where it is relative to other places, what it is close to and hopefully what makes it special. With enough time (or at least more than the usual 2 or 3 nights), you can explore and try out most of the available activities, sometimes even more than once. Enjoy the meerkat interaction at Jack’s Camp in the Kalahari? Well then do it again the next day. And the next – if you’re still there.

Perhaps more importantly still, you will connect with the local guides and camp staff and management, beyond the superficial pleasantries associated with a too-short stay. You’ll get a glimpse into their lives beyond hosting people in camp; learn something about their children, spouse, friends or family. Find out what they are passionate about, their frustrations, and you’re likely to get some invaluable advice about other safari destinations, or help with your photography skills, maybe even learn how to steer a mokoro.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GUIDING
Traveling on safari with an experienced, qualified guide can be a revelation. A good guide can be supremely knowledgeable about practically everything you see and experience – from butterflies to celestial objects. They can also be funny, helpful, entertaining, protective, and diplomatic. Often all of those. They will usually be keen to help you master a little bit of the local language – Swahili, Setswana, Afrikaans or French, all depending on where you find yourself. They will run interference for you when needed, help you out of a tight spot, lend you some local currency, and may even become a friend for life. They will show you what conservation is really all about and open your eyes to the complexities and challenges of their world.

To become a professional Zimbabwean guide can take from 5 to 7 years and it is an arduous undertaking filled with weeks & months of acquiring and honing skills as diverse as hospitality, mammal and bird identification, safety, firearms proficiency, animal tracking, botany, and much more. You can go out into the wilderness with a professional Zimbabwe guide with full confidence in their ability to keep you safe and to provide you with remarkable insight into what you see and experience, even what to anticipate. The same can be said about proficient guides in other parts of Africa – they are in a class of their own.

A driver who rushes around the Masai Mara, racing from one Big Five sighting to another, is not a guide. A driver who habitually drives right in front of lions or other big cats walking in a specific direction, forcing them to walk around his or her vehicle, is not a guide. A driver who takes unnecessary risks, who is unethical, who routinely positions his or her vehicle in the direct line of sight of other cars, is not a guide. A driver who takes shortcuts and trespasses on ecologically sensitive terrain, in the process leaving marks which may be visible for decades to come, is not a guide.

So, before you sign up for your next trip, make doubly sure that you will be guided by a proper, well-qualified and responsible guide. Not a driver.

MAKE YOUR TRIP YOUR OWN
Finding ‘the best’ African safari for you can be a daunting task, considering the multitude of areas, countries, and types of trips available. The solution? Consult an Africa destination specialist to make your trip your own. At about the same price as the many recycled cookie-cutter trips out there, you can have your own customized itinerary. Designed just for you. As unique as you are, reflecting your interests, your style and what you want to get out of the trip. Want to focus on big cats? Crazy about elephants, or giraffes, or keen on seeing the wildebeest migration? Special interest in birds or photography? A good advisor can help you with any of these, and more. So don’t settle for someone else’s trip, or a paint-by-numbers itinerary which is as predictable as the commute to your office. Talk to an African safari expert and you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised with their creativity and the way in which they can effectively incorporate your preferences and your interests in a sensible yet fun and exciting trip – at a price point of your choice.

GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE – SOMETIMES
A photographic safari is closely associated with game drives. Twice daily, morning and afternoon. Animals become habituated to the presence of the vehicles – meaning they don’t run away when they see one – so most people get their best views and their best photographs or videos, from a vehicle. All very well. It is comfortable, safe, and efficient. Done often enough, it can also become a bit predictable and maybe not quite as exciting as the first time. So what do you do? Get out of the vehicle, naturally. It doesn’t mean going out on a taxing route march, not at all. There are many ways to experience the wilderness and the wildlife from beyond the confines of the trusty Landcruiser.

Do make sure that at least a few ‘out-of-the-vehicle’ options are available on your trip or better yet, that they are already included and specified in your itinerary. Look for activities such as walking, boating, canoe or mokoro excursions, opportunities to observe wildlife from a blind or hide, a forest canopy walk, white-water rafting, perhaps a sundowner cruise on the Zambezi or a helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta. Doing and experiencing things beyond just game drives keep things interesting, add perspective, give you something to do in-between scheduled activities, and the more active pursuits provide a form of exercise. Not many safari properties have gyms or terrain suitable for jogging or running, so any time spent on your own two feet, will help counteract the inevitable weight gain associated with all the food, snacks and beverages constantly on offer.

If you’re keen, and physically capable, you can up the ante a bit with a two- or three-day walking safari in areas like Mashatu in Botswana or in the greater Kruger National Park. With the right guide and at the right time of the year, a foot safari opens a whole new world of experiences, and for many African travelers it ends up being the most memorable part of their stay. It’s quiet – just like the wilderness – and suddenly you will be hearing and seeing things which are quite beyond the scope of a vehicle-based safari. Starting with animal and bird tracks which tell a story of their own and which a skilled guide can weave into a fascinating account. You must be on the ground to experience it close-up. Likewise, the experience of approaching a large breeding herd of buffalo on foot, or tip-toeing to the edge of a dry river-bed to quietly observe elephants digging for water, or rooting around for mineral deposits. The sounds, smells and textures of the bush are out there just waiting to be explored – out of the vehicle.

BE WARY OF LARGE GROUP TRIPS
For me personally, the African safari experience is a very private and personal one. You and the wilderness. Just you – seeing the flat, dispassionate glare in the big yellow eyes of a lion. Just you – watching the dust fly off the leathery hide of an elephant as it cools itself with its gigantic ears. Africa is not someone droning on about a painting, an architectural masterpiece or a moment in history. Yes, there is a place and time for a well-qualified guide to enhance the experience with some judiciously timed interpretative comments. Mostly though, Africa speaks to you directly and quietly. Upon hearing the alarm calls of baboons, the contact calls between wildebeest babies and their mothers, an African Fish Eagle calling, or that most iconic of night-time sounds, the hauntingly evocative braying of zebras. A private moment on your verandah in the fading light of the African day, experiencing a strong sense of deja vu, an inexplicable yet powerful feeling about being part of the environment. Much of what makes an African safari experience unique and memorable is antithetical to having a large group of people around.

Of course, you can experience this with a few family members or friends and in fact having safari companions around can enhance the experience. The anticipation of a morning game drive, the thrill of seeing something special, and the pleasure of going over it again that evening, sharing photos and video clips, having a drink and sharing a meal – all part of the fun of being on safari. Just not a big group.

While some group trips can go well, I would be extremely wary of being bundled into a vehicle with a bunch of strangers, hoping that everyone will still be on speaking terms by the end of Day 5. Unless it is a private group, with a strong and experienced leader, there’s a lot of potential downside traveling with a big bunch of people. Logistical issues, the inertia associated with getting some individuals moving, chronic late-comers, and conflicting demands and expectations. So while group trips can be relatively cheap by African safari standards, as always you get what you pay for.

We’ve seen some sub-standard group itineraries from well-known, successful operators. Inexplicable, even baffling destination & property choices. Visiting areas at completely the wrong time of the year. Spending too much time traveling, or too much time in marginal areas. Some are almost laughably bad. Do your due diligence!

TAKE YOURSELF ON SAFARI, GO ON
An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a great experience for a single traveler. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting, enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere, as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Plus, it is safe with minimal time spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports, we include personalized meet and assists.

DON’T LEAVE THE KIDS AT HOME

Children love being on safari so by all means bring them along.   The vast majority of safari camps do a fantastic job to make it a fun and involving experience for all ages.  Children respond well to the genuine warmth of the local staff and guides in the camps.  With almost everything the children see and experience being new or different and outside of their existing frame of reference, it is a wonderful experience for them on many levels.  They have fun, they explore, and they learn.  A lot.

The experience of traveling in Africa on safari is even more meaningful because of its interface with conservation of wildlife and habitat. Even the youngest ones realize that it is a special responsibility which we all share, to safeguard the environment so that future generations might enjoy the same privilege. There are several superb safari regions such as Madikwe, the Eastern Cape and the Waterberg region of South Africa which are malaria-free so that even the youngest ones can go along.

BE SURE TO GET GOOD ADVICE FROM THE RIGHT SOURCE
Is your neighbor who has been on one trip to Africa an expert on African travel? Of course not. And neither are most of the individuals who air their grievances about a travel experience or who seem effusive in their praise for a particular property. Online forums are rife with information and opinions which are biased or even totally untrue.

On the other hand, any one of the 30 members of the Safari Pros Association of North America – of which we are a founding member – can give you a balanced and even-handed appraisal of what to expect, where the real value lies, what to avoid, and what the best places are at certain times of the year. Several Safari Pros members have – like us – spent a lifetime crisscrossing African safari destinations and continually updating their knowledge and experience.

THINK CONSERVATION AND COMMUNITY
From its very inception, Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. has aligned itself with partners such as Wilderness Safaris, Origins Safaris, Nomad Tanzania and others who are 100% committed to sustainable travel practices. Their commitment to conservation is all-encompassing, all the way from decreasing their use of fossil fuels to improving the well-being of the local communities where they operate with funding, research projects, education and employment opportunities. Community involvement and support being vital to reduce poaching & illegal hunting, to preserve and rehabilitate wildlife habitat and to gain local governmental sanction.

In addition to supporting the conservation and community work being undertaken by our African partners – by booking our guests with them – we also consider the conservation practices of individual properties. We are more likely to include camps and lodges which reduce their carbon footprint by switching from fossil fuels to renewable sources of energy such as solar heating, use battery-operated game drive vehicles and boats, recycle waste, practice composting, reduce their water usage, grow their own vegetables and fruit, promote reforestation and habitat restoration and encourage their guests to be green.

As a member of Safari Pros of North America, we work only with partners who strive to conserve the beauty and well-being of the continent and understand the vital role tourism plays in conserving Africa’s wilderness and the livelihood of its people.

By planning your trip with us, you are also supporting numerous (and highly vetted) philanthropic organizations. Our members support (financial and in-kind) a wide range of conservation and community organizations. Your travel choice matters a great deal to Africa’s people and wildlife.

THE LAST WORD
Recently, when writing to us about how much she enjoyed her first trip to Africa, a client of ours added this: “On our last flight (from Vic Falls to Jo’burg), I was seated next to a woman who had been on a trip that she found endlessly disappointing.” Don’t end up being that person. Look at our suggestions, give us a call or send us an e-mail. We can and will help you book a better safari.

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Botswana
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India

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Area
Destinations
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14th October 2023

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Botswana
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Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

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Zambia

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Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

28th October 2021

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

Over the years we have enjoyed some of our best game-viewing and most memorable sightings in the Linyanti-Selinda-Kwando region of Northern Botswana. Huge concentrations of elephants, leopards mating, lions hunting, a cheetah kill, African painted dogs pretty much every time – we’ve seen it all in this area.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Wilderness Safaris’ Dumatau Camp in particular, has consistently remained high on the list of our favorite camps in Botswana. Set in an ecotone where several habitats intersect – in this case riverine bush and thickets, grassy floodplain and mopane woodland –  the area is a haven for wildlife, particularly in the dry season from about June through October.  The only time that we were disappointed with the quantity of animals there, was during an early December trip when the area had experienced significant early summer rainfall. This disperses the elephants which means that they are not congregated along the Linyanti River and hence not easy to see.  Likewise, the thick bush makes game-viewing for smaller mammals problematic, as it is just downright impossible to see anything in the thickets.  So our best advice is to visit Dumatau no sooner than June and no later than October, to maximize the game-viewing potential.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On our very first visit to Dumatau, one night during pre-dinner drinks around the (then) ground-level fireplace in front of the dining room, the mellow atmosphere was rudely shattered when a kudu burst out of the bush into a clearing on our right. Wide-eyed and frantic, it stared at us for a split-second and then scrambled around the fireplace, closely pursued by a female lion. It happened so quickly that we were frozen to the spot, looking at each other in disbelief. The kudu got away, but the incident was much discussed over dinner.


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The following day, an afternoon game drive along the tree-line provided some excellent close up views of lions which were lying up at the base of an anthill. This particular pride consisted of three young males, three females and three young cubs. We marvelled at the close-up views, scrutinizing scars both old and new on the bluish-golden skin and trying to fathom the intent of the flat glare in the several sets of yellow eyes fixed on us.


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From there we drove down to the Zibadianja Lagoon, where there were literally masses of elephants drinking at the waterside, one group changing places with another in what seemed like a carefully choreographed parade. More and more elephants would emerge from the trees, speeding up as they caught sight of the water. There was dust and water flying everywhere and with the sun setting in the background, it became a tableau of silhouettes against hazy, golden light. Very ‘Africa’.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

We stopped for a while at a hide overlooking the source of the Savuti Channel, identifying a variety of wading birds and watching a pod of hippopotamus, to use the currently popular collective term. As our guide had predicted, one of the hippos performed a maneuver which none of us had ever seen before: it rolled around completely from a standing position, flashing its short, stocky legs and pale pinkish belly. It was now late afternoon and the hippos were starting to stir, calling at each other in anticipation or preparation of emerging from the water for their nightly foraging.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

At around 10 pm most of the guests were again assembled around the open fire. Tim and Robin were the first ones to say good night, preparing to return to tent # 3. They declined an offer from one of the guides to accompany them to their tent. “We’ll be fine, it’s not far,” said Robin as they took their flashlight and started up the path. “That’s what the last nice couple said,” the guide joked. Because of the earlier activity in camp, a guide went ahead to check the path anyway. There was a pride of nine lions not 10 meters away, busy crossing the path, the males so big they had to duck under the balustrades. Watching the lions move away we all made mental notes never to decline an escorted walk back to one’s tent at night. When we later heard that Dumatau means ‘roar of the lion’, we were not surprised.


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What can be said about Dumatau, can be said about Northern Botswana.  Every trip we take there underscores our long-held opinion that it is one the best game-viewing destinations in Africa.  On our best ever 10-day Botswana trip, Kathy and I saw close to 50 lions – twice seen hunting – once for buffalo and the other time for kudu. We observed leopards on three different occasions including one with the remains of an impala in a tree and another one with a youngster frolicking alongside. African wild dogs were likewise seen three times, once just seconds after they had taken down an impala; and cheetah twice, the latter sighting of a female knocking down and ‘delivering’ an impala to her five youngsters. She patiently waited in the shade until they had their fill, before she moved in and fed herself, keeping a wary lookout as the vultures started moving in. There were many other fantastic sightings including scores of elephants, magnificent sable antelope, a martial eagle on a fresh impala kill, an incredible scene at one of the camps with as many as 23 giraffe in one area, all staring at two cheetahs walking by; some superb night drives (including my first ever sighting of aardwolf ), and more. 


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On a recent trip (July 2021), Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and Christine spent a couple of nights at the newly rebuilt Dumatau Camp, now solidly in the premier/deluxe category.  The first thing that strikes you on arrival at the new Dumatau is the magnificent main area and location overlooking the Linyanti River.  The deck is large with multiple locations to take a seat and spend some time in between game drives looking for elephants to cross or observing anything that might come to get a drink of water.  The three-sided bar is one of the focal points but there are so many different areas within the main area that it is hard to single any one of them out.  The elongated deck which juts out into the water is also eye-catching and really stands out at night when it is lit by bonfire light.  The rooms are equally breathtaking, very large and luxurious, private plunge pools, snack jars full of dried meat, personal coffee, and other amenities.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

In a nutshell, everything you ever wanted in a safari lodge and more. Elegant, exciting, fun to hang out in, an inviting bar plus several cozy, secluded corners for private dinners. You could spend three nights here without having two meals in the same spot. The variety of food, preparation and presentation were excellent and every bit the equal of several deluxe properties we had visited previously.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

The main pool is just a short walk from the main area on the elevated boardwalk.  During the warmer months it would be an ideal place to relax and pass some time while reading a book, always with one eye towards the river lest you miss something.  The gift/curio shop is just adjacent and the spa is a short stroll away.  

Villa Maua


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

But beyond just being fun and exciting, we enjoyed the beautiful surroundings and the complete privacy. There was not a person or another boat to be seen or heard in any direction. We had miles and miles of river, marsh and lagoon all to ourselves. That is what makes the private concessions in northern Botswana so special. You just flat-out don’t have to deal with anything like the numbers of visitors and presence of other vehicles which often mar the experience in other more heavily visited safari destinations.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

An interesting activity which we tried out for an hour or so is a launch or pontoon cruise. The vessel which takes up to 15 or so passengers is able to cruise along the Linyanti River comfortably and smoothly, either up or downstream from Dumatau, and is ideal for brunch or sundowner outings.  In fact we were able to watch our chef prepare the food for us on a small open fire just behind us on the boat.  We would encourage all our clients to try this activity at some time during their stay at Dumatau. The pontoon boat provides a safe and stable platform from which to view and photograph hippos and crocodiles, and it is perfect for observing elephants swimming across the river, fortunately a fairly frequent occurrence in the dry season.  

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Zarafa Camp, Selinda – Botswana

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Zarafa Camp, Selinda – Botswana

I experienced the magic of Zarafa some years ago when I traveled to Zarafa by boat from Selinda. It was an interesting and sometimes adventurous journey. The skipper on the typical aluminum skiff (seemingly in use everywhere in Northern Botswana) had his hands full finding his way through some thick reed patches. Every now and then he’d run into a dead end or an impenetrable patch, and we’d have to divert. Without too much of a delay, though, we made it there and it was definitely worth the trip.

Zarafa has very impressive, massive rooms, essentially three tents stitched together, resting on a raised reclaimed railway sleeper deck. The camp has an old-fashioned 1920’s safari feel complete with safari equipment such as a professional quality Canon camera and premium binoculars in a foot locker. It epitomizes the romantic Botswana safari touch, much sought after by so many visitors to the area.

Being a runner, I was thrilled to see – and utilize – the outdoor gym with its treadmill which looks out over the floodplain. On safari, exercise options are scarce so I was really happy to be able to fit in a couple of 5k runs, during my stay. Beyond that, the main camp area has a sizable main lounge, a library, dining area and bush boutique. Despite its luxury appointments, Zarafa Camp maintains the perfect balance between luxury and adventure. In line with Great Plains Conservation’s ethos and practice at all their camps, Zarafa has sterling environmental credentials. The camp’s construction consists of recycled hardwoods and canvas. All the camp’s electricity comes from its solar farm, and a biogas system converts vegetable waste into usable cooking gas.

On their more recent visit this summer, Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and Christine arrived in more typical fashion: on a light air transfer from Great Plains’ Duba Plains camp, with a quick stop to pick up some guests at Khwai. All in all the trip took a little less than an hour. On arrival they were met by their guide Joseph who drove them the short distance to the camp.

Here are Lyndon’s impressions of the property: “Zarafa has an elegant presence overlooking the Selinda Spillway. The rooms are luxuriously appointed. I really liked their open and bright layout with the sunlight filling the room.

At the entrance of the rooms are those large wooden doors you might see around Zanzibar. In the first section of the lounge there’s a leather couch and chairs, mini-bar and tea station, a trunk with among other things some yoga mats and a set of binoculars for the room. There is also a charging station and a desk and chair which comes in handy for the occasional journal entry. Outside the tent? A plunge pool and a couple of lounge chairs. Through a partition is the other half of this splendid room. A king size bed lies in the middle, the sink and shower a bit further in. Between them is a novelty, a gas-powered flame room-heater. Useful during the cold winter nights and mornings.

As we experienced at the other Botswana and Great Plains camps the hospitality is excellent. The entire camp staff is so genuinely friendly and quick to assist in any way. By the end of our stay we were sad to have to say our goodbyes to everyone.

The concession where game drives are conducted is quite different than at Duba. This area is not directly within the Delta although it is traversed by Delta water in the form of the Selinda spillway. The concession has both large dry areas and large wet areas where the river forms sizable lagoons before continuing into various smaller channels. Much of the general game is similar (to the Delta) with the area dominated by red lechwe and a healthy population of elephants.

We were fortunate on our first game drive to arrive in front of a large body of water just as a family of elephants came in from the mopane forest for their evening drink. They had some very young ones with them and while our presence was tolerated it was evident that the older females did not appreciate it. No worries as long as the animals are not startled by sudden movement or loud noise. Elephants, especially in large numbers, are endlessly entertaining and 15 minutes can turn into an hour in the blink of an elephant’s eye, to get you lost in quiet observation.

Zarafa’s meals were patterned along the same lines as Duba which meant we were served a delicious combination of four salads and one protein for brunch. Dinners were excellent. On our first night I had a ‘melt in your mouth’ beef filet and the next night some very tender pork. I can say with certainty that all the Great Plains properties served some of the finest if not the finest meals I have had while on safari.

As a whole the game viewing wasn’t quite at the level of Duba Plains but it is still top notch and the highlights from Zafara stack up with anywhere else. One morning our guide spotted a female lion in the distance on an island. We crossed some high water to discover that she had four young cubs with her. Then her stance flipped from relaxed to focused as she spotted a lechwe that had become separated and hence vulnerable. We watched in awe as she slowly stalked the antelope while her cubs seemed on the precipice of ruining all her work by frolicking and playing with each other. In the end it was not enough to save the lechwe and we saw in the distance as the lion made its move. It had gotten quite close and after a short chase brought down its prey masterfully. Truly stunning to watch from beginning to end.

After a show like that we assumed we had used up our fair share of luck for the day, or perhaps week, so when Joseph spotted some leopard tracks we were pleasantly surprised. He went on to track it for what seemed to be an eternity. Then he took out his binoculars to scan the area and spotted the quarry sitting still in a bush on a raised mound. A singular guiding accomplishment! We again crossed some deep water and again watched as the cat spotted a potential meal. This time the antelope – a reedbuck – spotted the lurking danger and escaped. We followed as the leopard skulked off and eventually found a tree to its liking that it hopped onto, posing for some pictures on each branch.

We were also able to do an evening boat activity from which we observed three adult male elephants feeding on floating grass and water lilies in some deep water. One in particular made for a great photo opportunity as many of the lilies got tangled up on his tusks, as he continued to feed. On the same ride my wife and I did a little bit of fishing. Each of us caught a couple of tiger fish even though they become more active in the hotter months such as September and October.

It was another fantastic stay with Great Plains and I am coming home very impressed with the experience. They really checked all the boxes and if you are able to work in some of their camps in future itineraries, I am sure you will feel similarly.”

A CHEETAH HUNT – AND KILL
On Bert’s earlier visit to Zarafa, he witnessed his first cheetah kill. Here is how it went down:

Our afternoon game drive was uneventful to start. Some giraffe, kudu, impala, zebra, wildebeest – the usual suspects. Then we drove into an area which looked very promising for cheetah and lo & behold during a short stop looking for something else I picked up a cheetah in the binoculars, while scanning the terrain! There they were, a coalition of two males: not at all fussed with our presence. We followed them around and watched them settle in, at least for a while, on a large termite mound. Soon enough the light started to fade and we headed back to camp. En route, we were treated to a very enjoyable bush sundowner.

The following day was one of my best days on safari yet in Botswana. We headed out fairly early that morning to see if the cheetah brothers were still around. Taking our cue from some staring giraffes, we soon located them sleeping in a small depression not too far from where we had left them the previous day. We then proceeded to stay with the cheetah from about 0800 until past 1100. It was clear that the cheetah were – at least initially – not in a good position to hunt. There was a lot of open flat terrain between them and their prey species which included impala, young zebra and juvenile wildebeest. So if the cheetah commenced a hunt, the zebra would no doubt bolt and scatter all the other game as well.

As a result the cheetah took their time and it wasn’t until well after 11 that morning that they made their move. First they moved to a different position under a tree, and rested there for quite a while until the zebra had moved out of sight.

Then – as if by unspoken signal – the cheetahs got up and started walking deliberately towards the line of vegetation where there were several impala visible. Suddenly the cheetah accelerated, the impala scattered and I momentarily lost the big picture, just catching a glimpse of a cheetah wheeling to the left, its tail wildly swinging to the right as it honed in on a fleeing animal temporarily obscured behind a bush.

Our guide started up the vehicle and we raced to the scene. Just 20 seconds later we came up on the impala which had been taken down. One of the cheetahs had it in a death grip with its jaws clamped around the impala’s throat, suffocating the hapless animal which was no doubt in a state of severe shock, unable to feel pain. Almost simultaneously the cheetahs started to feed on the impala which they had by now dragged into cover, so as to avoid being seen by other land predators or from the air by bateleur eagles or vultures.

At first one and then another would act as a sentry of sorts. Interestingly they did not use their paws in the act of feeding; just their jaws, head and neck being in motion.

It was truly an awesome spectacle to behold and to listen to and we spent the better part of 20 minutes watching as they devoured a good chunk of the impala, occasionally lifting their bloodstained heads to momentarily stare outwards, before lowering them again and tearing away yet another mouthful. I could see one of the cheetahs considering opening a new spot on the impala’s yet unmarked shoulder. After one or two half-hearted bites he just walked away from the carcass, clearly having reached the point of satiety.

We were getting somewhat peckish ourselves by then, so we left the cheetah in peace and returned to camp for brunch.

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Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

15th October 2021

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

Ask any African wildlife photographer about their favorite animal to photograph and you might be surprised to see how high zebras rank.  These peculiar white and black striped mammals are among the most recognizable and most photographed of African animals.  Get a few of them together in the same frame, add some action and maybe some dust for added drama – and let the fun begin.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Few places in Africa are quite as well located as Leroo La Tau in central Botswana, to realize one’s ultimate zebra photography scenario.  The appeal of this Kalahari camp is closely intertwined with the enigmatic Boteti River which flows right below the camp.   As many as 30,000 zebras annually migrate between the Makgadikgadi Pans and the Okavango Delta, many passing through this area. In the dry season from about June through November the  Boteti is one of the only permanent water sources on their way, and acts like a magnet for thirsty zebras.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau is built on cliffs some thirty feet above the banks of the Boteti,  offering a vantage point over  the river and the Makgadikgadi Pans to the east.  The best place in camp to make the most of the zebra migration – and to capture photographs of all the other animals and birds attracted to the water – is the camp’s enclosed hide, from where you have an eye-level view across the Boteti.  A bunch of zebras all lining up to drink at the same time, two young stallions standing up on their hind legs, biting and kicking – the photo opportunities come hard and fast. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

The Boteti River is the main outflow of the Okavango Delta, collecting the water that flows past Maun and from there it meanders about 150 miles to Lake Xau on the extreme south-western edge of the great Makgadikgadi salt pans.  While it is currently flowing, that wasn’t always the case.  For a period of about 20 years, ending in 2009, the Boteti had largely dried up,  with just a few waterholes in the riverbed which offered refuge to a small pod of landlocked hippos, together with some crocodiles which became completely terrestrial, making dens in riverbank ‘caves’ downriver from the lodge.


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For now, the river again provides a lifeline for the wide range of wildlife which inhabit the arid Makgadikgadi national park and is a critical link in the spectacular zebra migration.  From December through March – essentially the wet months in the Kalahari – the  zebras seek out the nutritious grasses surrounding the Makgadikgadi Pans.  During this time there is a shallow layer of water over the salt pans, which attract a large number of migrating birds such as flamingoes.  All the more reason to spend some time around the pans then.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Around March or so – depending on the timing of the rain – the zebras edge towards the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park before setting off towards the Okavango Delta and  Moremi Game Reserve.  Their next stop:  the Boteti – and Leroo La Tau.   

On our most recent visit in July, we reached the camp after a flight of about 40 minutes (just slightly longer than the average Botswana light air transfer), followed by a 20-minute drive from the airstrip to the camp.  


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

We found the main area to be very appealing.  It is two stories high and has a well-placed fire pit right on the river.  The lodge features twelve luxurious thatched and glass-fronted suites with en-suite bathrooms, each unit raised on a wooden platform overlooking the Boteti River Valley below. The rooms are well spread out, spacious and have killer views over the river.  The main lounge and dining area, with its inviting wooden and thatch finish, is a great spot to spend some time relaxing at  the bar or enjoying the excellent food offerings. Alternatively you can lounge around the swimming pool or enjoy the views from the game-viewing hide built into the bank of the river.


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On a previous trip, we visited Leroo La Tau during the ‘Green Season’ which runs from December to March, when game-viewing isn’t quite as productive as it is during the dry months.   Even so, we enjoyed some good sightings of kudu, lion and elephant, amongst others.  In fact, we had some great views of a black-maned Kalahari lion in his prime. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

After dinner at Leroo La Tau on that visit, members of the staff entertained guests with a singing and dancing performance. This does not happen every night, so we were quite pleased to be treated to several traditional songs, done in a sweetly harmonious fashion. I think we were all struck by the wonderful attitude of the staff at this camp, everybody smiling all the time!

Prospective visitors would do well to schedule three nights here, and to take a full day trip (with picnic lunch) to Nxai Pan, among others to check out the beautiful Baines’ Baobabs site.  The excursion starts in the early morning with a picnic lunch to be enjoyed while out exploring the salt pans.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

In addition to game drives – and depending on the water level –  boating trips on the Boteti are also provided. Optional cultural excursions can be arranged to Khumaga Village as well as the previously mentioned day trips to Nxai Pan and Baines Baobabs (for guests staying a minimum of three nights). For those looking for a truly unique experience, the camp can arrange a sleep out under the stars on the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

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Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana

10th August 2021

Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana


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Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana

What is there to be said upon one’s return from a trip to Botswana? That it was fun? Definitely. That it was educational? For sure, especially when visiting as many as 10 different camps in 12 days, as we often do on what we refer to as familiarization or more commonly ‘fam’ trips. That it was exciting? But of course. A safari is all about excitement, anticipation, even a glimpse of danger when you find yourself within spitting distance of some of the largest and most powerful mammals in the world. It is exhilarating, yet peaceful at the same time. Between game drives or other activities, there is ample time to relax and do (almost) nothing, perhaps gazing out over a watering hole or lounging by the pool with a book.


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It is also quiet, almost startlingly so. The absence of practically any ambient noise is immediately noticeable on arrival at one’s first camp. At night, it is easy to imagine hearing the swish of a shooting star, while the roaring of lions is only too real, sometimes uncomfortably close to camp. In the mornings, the absence of city noise becomes less noticeable, because this is when the bush explodes with the calls of a myriad of birds: francolins, robins, hornbills, kingfishers, louries, parrots, doves – all intent on getting an early start in yet another wonderful day in the paradise that is Northern Botswana.


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Visitors often travel to Botswana to find wildlife and come back talking about all the wonderful people they met. I can’t imagine that anyone could not be touched by the warmth, spontaneity, genuine friendliness and dignity of the Botswana people. Spend a little more time in fewer places and you are likely to make some lifelong friends!


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On his recent fam trip to Botswana, Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon found himself at Desert & Delta’s Camp Xakanaxa (‘kuh/KAHN/knee/kuh’) on the edge of the Moremi Game Reserve, in early July 2021.    “The area is cold and dry this time of the year but due to exceedingly high rainfall earlier in the season, the presence of tall grass in many areas made game-viewing more challenging than might usually be the case.


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Photo – Great Plains Conservation

The camp staff have been great to this point but Xakanaxa takes the cake.  It prides itself on being the ‘authentic’ camp.  That became evident from the word go, when we were treated to a stirring song upon our arrival.  The rooms are quite simple with a bed in front of the room, and a partitioned bathroom behind.  More than adequate though.


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I thought that the spacing between the tents on the right hand side of the entrance was a little tight.  The main area has a top notch view over the beautiful Xakanaxa Lagoon, one of the largest of its kind in Botswana.  Baboons are a problem at this camp.  At the time of my visit, the trees above the tents were fruiting so the baboons stay overnight and can make a racket.


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Our evening drive was rather quiet.  We did see some elephants, giraffes and general plains game.  The drive ended on a peaceful note at a pretty sundowner spot next to a body of water with a family of hippo.  We enjoyed some delicious grilled chicken kabobs and steaks as a snack – it almost but not quite spoiled my dinner appetite!  I think I caught a brief glimpse of a leopard as we made our way to camp after sundowners.


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Photo – Great Plains Conservation

Speaking of dinner I think it is safe to say this camp wins top marks in this category as well.  Courses included grilled chicken, chicken stuffing, lamb, mashed sweet potato, mixed veggies and a cheesecake for dessert.  The starter was some wonderful mushroom and cheese dish.  It was fun being with a group and enjoying our meals at a long table with everyone around it.


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Our final morning drive started inauspiciously but ended with a bang.  Our vehicle was just about to cross a wooden bridge when four African painted dogs appeared in front of us.  Our guide asked us to keep an eye on them as they headed to where we had come from, as he tried to reverse on the narrow bridge.


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We only briefly lost sight of them and from there the chase was on.  Both for them – and us.  It is no mean feat to try to keep up with a pack of dogs on the hunt.  We were aided by a flock of hooded vultures who followed them in hopes of stealing some scraps after a kill.  The dogs chased multiple groups of impala right in front of us.  Thrilling.  Eventually they outran us but we will all remember this day.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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