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Lower Zambezi

Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

7th October 2021

Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi


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Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

Over dinner some years ago at the River Club upstream from Vic Falls, I was gently corrected about a comment I had made about the Zambezi River.  “It is the Zambezi.  Not the Zambezi River”.  So it is.  This most African of rivers makes its way all the way from far northern Zambia, right on the border of the Congo, down-stream from west to east, to eventually spill into the Indian Ocean some 1,600 miles from its point of origin.   Having carved its way through some of Africa’s most spectacular places such as Victoria Falls, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi.


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Photo Sausage Tree

Sausage Tree Camp

This is where I found myself on the last day of July,  on my way to the western portion of the Lower Zambezi National Park, where we would have brief overnight stops at Sausage Tree and Chiawa Camps.  Appropriately, we arrived at Sausage Tree by boat, after an entertaining 20-minute cruise upstream on the Zambezi, from the jetty at Jeki Airstrip.  Practically never out of sight of at least one, sometimes more than one pod of hippo.  Just giving us the intense hippo stare as we moved past them.


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Photo Sausage Tree

The rooms at Sausage Tree were beautiful and spacious.  More like suites than rooms,  they are luxurious custom safari tents with massive gauze windows and sliding doors, with more than adequate fresh air circulating. Nearly hidden from one another, and shaded by mature sausage and mahogany trees, the tents are cool, private sanctuaries to return to for an afternoon siesta or good night’s rest.


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Photo Sausage Tree

Sleeping only 18 guests, Sausage Tree Camp offers a civilized approach to a true bush experience with lavish attention to detail. The central dining and bar area is fronted by an enormous teak deck overlooking the Zambezi. The 25 meter Lap-pool is situated right on the edge of the riverbank, under shading mahogany trees with outstanding views.


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Photo Potato Bush

Canoeing at Sausage Tree Camp

Our afternoon activity, a canoeing outing with head guide Ryan Wilmot, was a highlight of the entire Zambia trip.  I had a comfortable seat in the sturdy Canadian canoe, I stayed totally dry throughout, and did not have to do any paddling.  The camp practice is to have just one guest per canoe, with the paddling done by Ryan (my canoe) and two other canoeing specialist guides, in the other two canoes. 


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Photo Sausage Tree

The canoeing was simply a fantastic experience.  From beginning to end, participants traverse breathtakingly beautiful surroundings, with a profusion of birds, lots of hippos of course, elephants, buffaloes, impala, baboons and monkeys – and more.


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It was exciting and a little intense at times, but I always felt safe.  Clearly, the highly experienced guides were firmly in control.  We did have a couple of relatively close encounters with some hippos, including one brief ‘mock’ charge.  Even so, nothing too alarming, just enervating.


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Photo Chiawa

Chiawa Camp

It took only 15 minutes or so – again by boat, further upstream – from Sausage Tree to Chiawa Camp.  Almost predictably, we could not get to our rooms along the regular path because of elephants in camp. It happened on my previous visit as well. I hope to visit Chiawa one more time before I finally put away my binoculars. Maybe then I can complete a hat trick of having an elephant diversion on arrival!


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Photo Chiawa

As I told  camp manager Simon Douglas when we made our way around the front of the rooms (on the river-side), I always give extra credit to a camp if there are animals around on arrival.  Animals which prevent you from getting to your room?  A double gold star.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo Chiawa

My room #7 at Chiawa was even bigger and better equipped than when Kathy and I spent a couple of days there a few years ago.  Same great views over the Zambezi, same great range of activities (game drives, boating, canoeing, fishing and walking), same superb hospitality and friendliness from everyone whom you meet.

Our stay at Chiawa started with a surprise lunch served while drifting down the Zambezi, on a boat.  A three course meal with perfectly roasted chicken, salad and a dessert.  Simply a delightful experience.

Villa Maua


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Photo Chiawa

In the afternoon we did a game drive which started slow but ended with a bang.  It started with seeing lots of elephants, then a female leopard, followed by two female lions and on the way back an exceptional sighting:  two males leopards getting into a territorial spat, the older, more powerful male chasing the younger one high into a tree.  Once the dominant male got back onto the ground, he gave chase to an inquisitive hyena which hastily beat the retreat.

Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane


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Photo Chiawa

That evening, we were entertained with a few of Chiawa choir’s favorite songs, and then enjoyed our final dinner on safari, in the Chitenge upstairs.  It felt cozy and private – and special.

On our second but last day in Zambia, we were up early for Chiawa’s signature fireside breakfast.  Yoghurt and fruit ‘parfait’, cheese, cold meats, peppadew, hard-boiled eggs, toast over the coals, and oats porridge from a potjie.  That pretty much sets you up for the day.


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Photo Old Mondoro

Old Mondoro

Just after 6 am we took off on a 45-minute boat ride to Old Mondoro for a site inspection.  Old Mondoro appears to be an excellent choice for a typical small (5 room) Zambian bush camp.  The rooms are constructed of treated reeds and canvas, with enough space and with regular toilets and showers (hot water any time).  The camp has an exceptionally appealing dining/lounge area which is open to the river as well as to the rear, facing the bush.  There is almost always something going on inside the camp in terms of wildlife.  


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Photo Old Mondoro

And so it was on the day we were there.  Several elephants were just walking into the camp as we arrived.  This is something which gathers momentum in the August-Sept-Oct time frame when the winter thorn trees (Albidas) start to drop their nutritious pods, much sought after by elephants as well as by impala, kudus, & baboons. 


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Photo Old Mondoro

The camp manager took us around and showed us a couple of rooms along the river on the ‘left’ side of camp, looking from the river to the north.  We particularly liked rooms #4 and #5 and those are the ones we’d recommend for our guests, in future.  


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An African painted dog kill

Eventually, after a cup of tea, we started to make our way to the Jeki airstrip to connect with a charter back to Lusaka.  Along the way, Pearl spotted the same pack of 23 African painted dogs which we had seen three days earlier, upon our arrival in the Lower Zambezi.  They appeared to be in a hunting mode, all of them walking in the same direction with their heads down and their ears back.  And then – action!  The dogs accelerated as if one,  running through the woodland at speed, in pursuit of a group of impala which we could just barely see in the distance.


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And then the unexpected happened.  A troop of baboons panicked and got in the way of the hunting painted dogs.  Which resulted in a disaster befalling one young male baboon which was grabbed by one of the running dogs.  Right in front of us and in a rather graphic and shocking manner, the unfortunate young baboon was torn apart by about four to five African painted dogs.  In a manner of minutes there wasn’t much left at all, of the hapless creature.  Rather an unexpected and unusual turn of events.  We had one last interesting sighting when we had a brief view of a leopard, quite close to Jeki Airstrip. 


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Our great Zambian adventure ended with an uneventful flight back to Lusaka.  We had to spend the last night there at the pleasant Latitude 15 hotel, await the results of a Covid test, and then we would head out the following morning.  To Cape Town in my case – to climb Table Mountain along the India Venster route – and back to the USA for the other two participants on the trip.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

1st October 2021

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia
OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI


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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia

Off to the Lower Zambezi

Every once in a while, I walk into a safari camp which captivates me from the word go.  Most recently, it was Tusk and Mane’s Kutali Camp on a small island in the Zambezi River in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park.  After missing an entire season due to the pandemic, the camp had been experiencing good occupancy lately and we arrived in what was a full camp, in July. Not surprisingly, there was a buzz in the air.  Lots of smiles all round, a sense of relief and a growing realization that things were going to be ok – soon.  All was not lost.  Pristine wilderness areas like this one would once again be hosting appreciative visitors from all over the world.  


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Kutali Tent credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

It’s really easy to like or even love Kutali.  The camp has the most perfect setting right on the edge of the Zambezi – in one direction – and a simply fantastic forest of winterthorn trees in every other direction.  All throughout the day from first light until the last bird calls fade away after sunset, the forest takes on a different look and feel.  Mysterious, somber, brooding – its mood changes as the sunlight comes and goes.  The Lower Zambezi is known for magnificent stands of winterthorn and other trees, but few can match the exquisite forest which pervades Kutali with a little bit of magic and tons of atmosphere.


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Luke and Kyle credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans personify Tusk and Mane, their safari company operating in one of Africa’s top safari destinations, Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Kyle and Luke are both young, personable and full of energy and at the vanguard of a much needed ‘back to the basics’ safari philosophy.  For them, it is all about what happens outside the tent.  They are passionate about many things, but mostly about the wilderness itself.  They want to take you back in time to those legendary ‘Hemingway’ escapades in a part of Africa where you can reconnect with nature and replenish your senses.


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Tusk and Mane

Tusk and Mane is unapologetically focused on delivering a ‘back to nature’ wilderness adventure. They are not about cut flowers in the room, elaborate spa menus or 2,000 bottle wine cellars.   That doesn’t mean that you will be slumming it.  To the contrary.  Their camps are simple yet comfortable.  Old style luxury camping at its finest.  A setting where visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, experiencing it under the stars, around the campfire and on every activity.


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Kutali tent and forest credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch, a vastly experienced and accomplished professional safari guide, has worked as a guide, in camp management and in a training capacity in several African countries including Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and Uganda, over the last 15 years.  He explains his decision to settle in Zambia, as follows:  “Zambia is an incredibly wild country with diversity I can’t get enough of.  I have chosen to move my life here permanently to show those who are interested,  an untouched wilderness where you can still picture what it was like walking the banks of the Zambezi in the 1800s.  It is truly a childhood dream coming true”. 


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Kyle’s friend and business partner Luke Evans is on the same wavelength.  Born in Zambia, he literally grew up in safari camps in the Kafue, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks, where his parents spent many years in the safari business.   Luke – who is trilingual, speaking Chi Nyanja, English and German – has worked with several safari operators including Robin Pope, Sanctuary and Sausage Tree.  His forte is having been involved in every facet of the safari business from guiding, to camp management, to marketing, to reservations, to accounting.  Luke summarizes the essence of Tusk and Mane as follows:  “Tusk and Mane is about a simple but pure safari experience tailored to all the best aspects of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  Ours is a “back to roots” approach built around a great Zambian team, excellent guiding, ice cold drinks, hot bucket showers, comfortable beds, good homemade food and our passion for this great Zambian wilderness”.


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Getting to and experiencing Kutali Camp

It took us a bit less than an hour and a half by air,  from Busanga in the Kafue to Jeki Airstrip which serves a few safari camps located on or close to the Zambezi, in the central and eastern part of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  There are daily scheduled flights from Lusaka, Mfuwe and Livingstone to and from Jeki airstrip from  June through October, which constitutes the high season.  Outside these months, seat rates are available.  Compared to many remote bush camps, the transfer time to Kutali and Chula is short – no more than 30 minutes. It is easy to combine a few days here with a stay elsewhere on the Zambian circuit.


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Chula camp dinner under the stars credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Having arrived around 10:00 am we were collected by Kyle and Luke and started to make our way to Kutali Camp.  This being the Lower Zambezi, it suddenly got really exciting as we bumped into a pack of more than 20 African painted dogs, then denning in the area.  Several of them were interacting with each other, and at one stage almost all of them got up and relocated to a shadier spot.


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A little bit later we made it to Kutali Camp which would be our home for the night.  As I had noted earlier, the camp has a great setting underneath a particularly dense stand of Faidherbia albida (Winterthorn)  trees, and overlooks the Zambezi River.

Elephants, buffaloes, and even leopards are often seen around the campsite, and of course there are hippos all over the place at night, when they leave their Zambezi home to forage.

Legendary Lodge


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Chula camp at night credit Tusk & Mane

Later in the afternoon we took a boat ride upstream on the Zambezi, to the site of  Chula, Tusk & Mane’s other small tented camp.  This camp is located in yet another gorgeous spot, just to the  west of the well-known Old Mondoro camp.  That evening we experienced a beautiful sunset, watching in awe as the golden light faded over the mountains of the Zambia escarpment.


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Dinner table at Chula credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Dinner at Kutali camp was memorable in more ways than one. A safari camp really comes alive at night just before and during dinner. This magical evening was no exception. Right off the bat, we were happy to see some familiar faces:  Phil and Tyrone from Musekese and their significant others were in camp!  We were thrilled to see a guest from Switzerland there, whom we had first met at Musekese as well.  A mini-reunion!  As is often the case this time of the day, we got word of some other good sightings. The African painted dogs had been sighted again, as well as a leopard.

Villa Maua


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Sitting around the fire I caught bits and pieces of several conversations, the topics ranging from wildlife photography to the (then) imminent Zambia general election, the rapidly rising number and rate of Covid vaccinations in Zambia, and the weekly flow pattern of the Zambezi.  Which, as you may not need to be told, goes up and down in tandem with the excess amount of water released from Lake Kariba to operate the turbines which generate electricity.  Less on the weekends, more during the week.


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Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane

The night was typical in some ways with friendly, like-minded people surrounding me, all imbued to one degree or another with a love of animals, nature and the wilderness.  In other ways, it was a unique, never to be repeated event:  making new acquaintances who may become new friends, acquiring new knowledge and experience, taking photographs and making memories which may last a lifetime.  Finding myself in a true wilderness area where I’ve never been before and judging it to be so appealing and special that I am already making plans for a longer return stay.  This, of course, is what an African safari is all about and what makes it such a satisfying vacation.


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We made an early start the following morning to the western part of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  All the while, driving through some beautiful, atmospheric winterthorn forests.  From August to October is when the mature winterthorn pods start to drop, attracting numerous elephants and other wildlife into the camp sites.

Our game drive to Jeki was on the quiet side but we did see quite a few elephants, lots of impala, waterbuck, later some zebra and close to the airstrip a leopard – briefly.  We stopped for tea alongside the beautiful Discovery channel before we headed to the jetty for our boat ride to our next camp. 


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Kutali tent and campsite credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kutali and Chula Camps

Kutali Camp is located on Kulefu Island which means ‘far away place’.  It is a classic winterthorn forest Zambezi valley camp which offers excellent canoeing and walking opportunities, yet it is just a brief river crossing away from the mainland for game drives.

I quickly made myself comfortable in one of the five square guest tents at Kutali.  The rooms are basic but comfortable with hot water bucket showers available on demand, and proper flush toilets in the adjacent, enclosed bathroom.  I quite liked the gauze netting which provides protection – but allows air to flow freely – when the solid canvas ‘walls’ are rolled up.


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Chula – which means frog – is located on Discovery Island and is Tusk & Mane’s nearest site to Jeki Airfield.  They describe the island as being like Jurassic Park – full of surprises, with several hidden lagoons and open dambos. The game-viewing right on Discovery Island is excellent and Kyle and Luke have seen leopards, lions, hyenas, buffalo herds and lots of elephants there, as well as several other species.


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Chula tent with Natal Mahogany tree credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

The atmosphere on Chula is unique and it even looks different with an abundance  of Natal mahogany trees and sandy beaches.  The perfect contrast to Kutali camp.

All the tents used in both Kutali and Chula have:

  • Ensuite individual bathrooms – accessible without leaving the tent.
  • Bucket shower, flushing toilet and wash  basin with a mirror.
  • Two comfortable beds with top quality linen provided.  The two beds can be joined to form doubles on request.
  • Two bedside tables with solar lamps/reading lights.
  • A safe box to store valuables.
  • Two comfortable camp chairs.
  • Two folding shelf systems for clothes.
  • Complimentary laundry service.

The campsites at Kutali and Chula feature a bar area in the shade, a comfortable seating area under canvas and a well stocked, refrigerated bar.  There is almost always a campfire going and as we were to find out, the food was more than good – and wholesome.  


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

We would recommend a minimum 4-night stay split between Kutali & Chula Camp. This will enable visitors to make the most of the wide variety of activities on offer in the Lower Zambezi National Park.  A stay at Kutali and/or Chula combines well with Musekese Camp in Kafue National Park and there is a long-stay offer in place, for spending 4 nights each in both locations.


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Tusk and Mane

Tusk & Mane activities

The Tusk and Mane experience is diverse and exciting,  with much of the game viewing done on foot or from the canoes.  Game drives, boat cruises and fishing are on offer as well, making for an exciting and adventurous experience..

The Zambezi is central to what Tusk & Mane is all about and it features prominently in the activities on offer.  Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Canoeing

On a previous visit to the area, we went out on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes.  I would highly recommend this activity for all visitors:  it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours.


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Dambo View Tusk & Mane

From Kutali, Kyle Branch leads all canoe safaris.  The back-up paddlers, who pilot each canoe with guests, are experienced Tusk and Mane staff.  Kyle and the canoe team will quietly paddle you through any of the three incredibly beautiful channels that break away from the main Zambezi river. Depending on what the guests want to experience on the day and the duration they had in mind, the canoe safari route would traverse the Inkalange, Chifungulu or Discovery channel as well as parts of the main river. Each channel is of a different length with different, yet equally diverse habitats alongside.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Walking

The walking safaris are done  in the early morning starting at 6:00 am to finish up before the worst heat of the day.  The Tusk & Mane  walking safaris are relaxed, maintaining a comfortable pace adjusted to suit the slowest guest. Walks usually only cover a few miles with frequent stops for scenery, birds and animals.  Guests are given a thorough safety briefing and orientation before each walk. In the interests of safety, participants will need to be reasonably fit and mobile.


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Your professional guide will be carrying a first aid kit, radio and additional water. Guests will each have a water bottle in a custom-made sling for easy carrying.  The group is accompanied by an armed Wildlife Police Officer from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife. He walks in front with a powerful rifle, together with the professional guide and protects the group in the unlikely event of an aggressive animal encounter.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Boating & Fishing

Boating provides a stable platform for photography from a different perspective, from water to land, with an ideal green backdrop.  The river banks are often the scene of action of one kind or another, ranging from hippos rushing headlong into the water to crocodiles staying put. Sometimes allowing you to get really close.  On this trip I managed a close up shot of a crocodile’s eye in just such a scenario.   A boat trip is also ideal for bird photography with multiple opportunities to shoot birds in flight, and many species that like to hug the edges of the rivers like the waders, skimmers, ducks, cormorants, kingfishers and many others.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Fishing can either be done as a stand-alone activity or combined with boating.  In the Lower Zambezi fishing is available throughout the season from May to November.  The last two months of the season are the best as this is when the Tigerfish are most active.  The fishing is done on a strict ‘catch and release’ basis with every attempt being made to ensure the best chance of survival, in order to maintain and grow fish populations in the Lower Zambezi. All equipment is provided: quality Tigerfish, Vundu, and Bream rods and reels, along with all the tackle and spinners/lures needed. All that is missing is you, a little bit of luck and lots of patience. 


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Mike Sutherland Tusk & Mane

What makes Tusk & Mane special?

Few places in Africa offer as varied an experience as the Lower Zambezi and all the more so in the Tusk & Mane locations.  Guests can experience the Zambezi River from the winterthorn forests on remote islands, all the way north through several habitats into the hills of the Zambia escarpment for the best of both worlds.


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From the various Tusk & Mane camp sites you can experience the wildlife rich and diverse areas of the Lower Zambezi either by foot, canoe, vehicle or boat. The safari can be as long as you wish and the activities can be totally tailored to suit you and your party, irrespective of size or make-up.  At all times you will be in a classic tented safari setting, exactly how they used to be.  With a campfire, bucket showers and one star spangled night after another.


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The Tusk and Mane environment offers the ultimate safari activity mix:  walking, canoeing, day & night drives, birding, fishing and boating.  All in an area where you are not likely to see another vehicle or person, or at most a handful.  The camps are small and the experience is personal, with no more than eight guests.  A party can opt to pay for as few as five persons and obtain exclusive use of the camp.  The camp sites are all in very private areas and a good distance away from where other camps do activities.  Which means that you can look forward to experiencing Africa – your way.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Lower Zambezi, Mana Pools & Gonarezhou ANABEZI LODGE, LOWER ZAMBEZI

28th May 2020

Lower Zambezi, Mana Pools & Gonarezhou
ANABEZI LODGE, LOWER ZAMBEZI


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Lower Zambezi, Mana Pools & Gonarezhou

ANABEZI LODGE, LOWER ZAMBEZI

Over dinner some years ago at the River Club upstream from Vic Falls, I was gently chided about a comment I had made about the Zambezi River.  “It is the Zambezi.  Not the Zambezi River”.  I stand corrected.   Either way, the Zambezi is Africa.    Elephants drink from it, swim across it and are inescapably part of its allure.  It is home to thousands of hippos and crocodiles, and what can be more African than that.  Tiger fish live in it, as do giant catfish known as Vundu.  African Fish Eagles patrol its banks, their unmistakable, plaintive call often heard well before the birds are seen.  People as diverse as the Lozi, Tonga, Shona, Chena and Nsenga rely on this ‘river of life’ for food, transportation and irrigation.  The Zambezi is mighty, powerful  and  mysterious.  It even has its own river god, Nyami Nyami.  And of course it carves its way through and enhances some of Africa’s most spectacular places such as Victoria Falls, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi.


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So it was good to be back on this most African of rivers, on what was a return trip to the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia last May.  To get there, my fellow travelers and I flew from Lusaka Airport to Jeki Airstrip, from where it took about an hour by road to the camp where we’d be spending the next couple of days:  Anabezi.  I had heard much about the property in advance and I am happy to report that the actual experience was even better than the anticipated one.


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For one thing, my room was massive, as was everything in it from the king size bed with mosquito net canopy, the large tub (and plenty of hot water always available), a lounge area, outside deck and both inside and outside showers.  Best of all was the view over the Zambezi.

The Zambezi is central to what Anabezi is all about and over the course of our stay, it featured prominently in the activities on offer.  Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.  Sundowner drinks were served on an island –  a fun variation on the theme.  Dinner did not disappoint either with a tasty dish of peri-peri rock lobster tails being the main course.


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The undisputed highlight of the day was a leopard which walked by in clear view, in front of camp.  At least one first-time visitor to Africa got super-lucky to see a leopard on her first day in Zambia!

The following day we enjoyed a game drive and walk, taking in the beautiful, striking terrain with simply spectacular stands of trees in sandy areas, with a side-channel of the Zambezi flowing by.  Game-viewing was impressive with good looks of lions, buffaloes, hippo, waterbuck, kudu, impala and some great birds.


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Our walk with our Anabezi guide John was highly informative, fun, even engrossing.  On a site inspection at nearby Amanzi camp we could see that it was a slightly scaled down version of Anabezi with arguably an even better location (of the main area), which is elevated well above the Zambezi with fantastic down-river views.  The rooms at Amanzi are similar to the ones at Anabezi except they don’t have plunge pools or bathtubs.  Amanzi only has 4 rooms with rooms 3 and 4 being quite close to each other, ideal for a family or similar group.


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We enjoyed yet another splendid meal on this day, with grilled kabobs, salads, and grilled beef patties. After high tea at around 3:30 pm, we departed on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes.  I would highly recommend this activity for all camp visitors:  it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours. As we completed our canoe trip we were greeted at the river bank by our guide for a game drive and sundowners.


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Sundowners that evening were followed by an excellent dinner consisting of fire-roasted chicken with lemon and herbs, served with french fries and a mixed salad, followed by a lovely dessert.

Should you consider adding or including Anabezi on your next or first trip to the Lower Zambezi?  For sure.  Just along the boardwalk – even without leaving camp – I saw a leopard, lions, buffaloes, hippo and elephant, over the course of just 2 days.  So great game-viewing, friendly and accommodating staff (one of whom even ran with me on a nearby airstrip), beautiful rooms and as diverse an array of activities as anybody could want on safari.


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KAYILA CAMP, LOWER ZAMBEZI

From Anabezi, we traveled upstream on the Zambezi for about 2 and a half hours, to Kayila Lodge which was just then opening in a beautiful spot high over the Zambezi, just outside the Lower Zambezi National Park.  The camp has a classic thatched safari design, with solid brick and mortar construction with high roof clearance, in each of the four huge chalets.  The chalet I was in – #1 – has a bath and indoor shower and a great balcony as well as two queen beds.


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Our afternoon game drive out of Kayila delivered plenty of elephants, kudu, impala and also some Cape buffaloes and duiker.  The birdlife in the area is prolific.  In addition to game drives, Kayila also has boating, catch-and-release fishing and walking safaris.  One would do well to spend a couple of nights at Kayila first, and then do the boat transfer on the Zambezi to either Anabezi or Amanzi


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JOHN’S CAMP, MANA POOLS

From the jetty at Mana Pools, it was a short trip of about 25 minutes to John’s Camp, a small (6-tented) bush camp on the edge of the Zambezi floodplain.

The camp made a good first impression with all of the staff including camp manager Milo meeting us on arrival.  John’s camp has quite a reputation which is clearly well-earned and not in a boring way.  At John’s Camp, when you hear a bell being rung, it doesn’t mean that lunch or dinner is ready.  It means that there are lions in camp. If you are in your room you are instructed to stay there until told the coast is clear.  Lunch was splendid – as were the other meals here which included some super tasty sushi (what a surprise here in the bush!) and a traditional South African ‘braai’ or barbecue.


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The comfortable rooms at John’s camp were quite simple yet functional with en suite flush toilet and bucket shower.  There was a more than ample supply of hot water when needed.  The room also had a small vanity, a dresser cube, and two twin beds or a double bed on a sisal natural rug.  Best of all (at least from room #5), I had amazing views over the Zambezi floodplain and the Zambia escarpment in the background.


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A late afternoon game drive was rather quiet and uneventful for Mana Pools, but that is how it goes on safari.  The animals move around in real time and are not always present on command.  We did enjoy an excellent sundowner stop at Long Pool where I was lucky to snap a photo of a heron taking a ride on the back of a hippo.

That evening, after yet another enjoyable dinner, we took a look at John’s Camp’s 5-meter high star-bed, where two people can sleep out under the stars in a mosquito-net enclosed platform with two mattresses next to each other, and a trap door which closes for safety.


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GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK – CHILO GORGE LODGE

Who should be pencilling in a visit to Gonarezhou in their planner, for the next time they make it to Southern Africa?  Curious, adventurous travelers who want to take a step back, away from the over-traveled safari spots which feature in way too many humdrum itineraries.  In Gonarezhou you will find the Africa of old, with plenty of wildlife but thankfully not many other visitors.  There will be the odd morning or afternoon where wildlife sightings might not be prolific, but when you do find something, it will likely be yours and yours alone.  Over the course of more than two days of driving around Gonarezhou early in the dry season, I can’t recall seeing even one other vehicle.  Take your time and spend several days there and you will be rewarded in many ways.  Looking back on our time there, some of my most vivid memories are of just how quiet and peaceful it was with no ambient noise or signs of civilization.  Yet with an undertone of excitement and a sense of adventure as we were wandering into spots where few other visitors had ever been to before, and interacting with wildlife not totally habituated to the presence of vehicles and people. Gonarezhou lions are going to look at you in a different way than a Serengeti pride who sees dozens of vehicles on any given day, year round.  And Gonarezhou elephants may even take a more active interest in you, depending on the circumstances.


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From John’s Camp we transferred by road to the Mana West airstrip for a private charter flight of about 1 hr 40 minutes to Chilo Gorge Lodge, alongside the Gonarezhou National Park.

The lodge is beautifully located on the edge of a magnificent gorge in the Save River in far southwestern Zimbabwe.  From the camp deck, there is an expansive view of the cliffs on the other side of the river, forests left and right, and a massive sandy beach stretching a mile or more downstream.  The deck overlooking the Save River is unquestionably the heart of the property; it is where most of the delicious meals are served and where guests gather for drinks, conversation or simply to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, any time of the day.  Across the river is where you will find the little-known and lightly explored Gonarezhou National Park which we would be exploring the following day.


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I spent the night in a spacious and well-equipped room with a shower and separate toilet and plenty of space.  Best of all was the amazing view over the Save River to the left of camp.  What a spot to catch up on one’s notes or look through your photographs of the day!  My room might not be suitable for everyone as I had to negotiate lots of steps getting there and back.

Our afternoon activity was a village visit and palm wine demonstration.  The village visit was done in a ‘drive-through’ fashion, observing the daily goings-on in this remarkable village of about 6,000 people, tucked into the forest, with very little to zero forest destruction.


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The next morning we set out on a long drive to Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe’s second largest national park.  Along the way we crossed over the wide Runde River by boat.  Gonarezhou was impressive from the word go.  Beautiful scenery with lots of huge baobab trees, many of which were protected from elephants with wire or rocks around them.

By midday, we reached a simply spectacular lookout point at Chilojo Cliffs.  The cliffs are a series of massive sandstone precipices facing mostly east, towards the Runde River.  A bit later, we had lunch at the Ivory Trail Adventure camp, with a table set under the tree canopy, with again awesome views of the Chilojo Cliffs, this time from ‘river level’ up.


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The Ivory Trail is an adventurous combination of a foot and vehicle safari, exploring various spots in Gonarezhou.  Generally speaking the mornings are spent walking and the afternoon driving.  Our next stop – where we would spend the night – was Chilo Tented Camp (Makore Camp) which has 4 tents plus an auxiliary.

One thing to know about Gonarezhou is that the animals are still on the skittish side, although one can anticipate this changing, as more visitors add this rugged, remote place to their Zimbabwe trip itineraries.  Over a couple of days in the area, we experienced good all-round game-viewing with one large herd of buffalo,  several small groups of zebra, waterbuck, kudu, impala and a solitary female lion.  We also enjoyed several elephant sightings – some by themselves and a memorable breeding herd of about 10 to 12 elephants.  They at first seemed to be inquisitive, lifting their heads in our direction, with their trunks testing the air.  With practically no warning, two females then charged in the direction of the vehicle.  This was no mock charge – they were serious.  We retreated down the road quite safely,  impressed with the feistiness of the Gonarezhou elephants!


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Having spent the night at Chilo Tented Camp, we made our way back to Chilo Gorge the following morning.  Along the way we experienced an exceptionally good sighting of a buffalo herd in great morning light.  Also zebras, impala, kudu, and several herds of elephants.

At Chilo Gorge, we observed the antics of a pod of hippo in the Save River below camp, before heading off by air to Bulawayo; our next stop would be the Matoppos National Park, to be covered in our next blog installment…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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“Only in Africa”: How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

30th April 2020

“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro


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“Only in Africa”:
How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro

Having successfully reached the summit of Kilimanjaro twice in three years, most recently along the Rongai Route in Feb 2020, while training mostly at close to sea level, here’s Fish Eagle Safaris founder Bert Duplessis’ tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb:


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#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.


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Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.


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#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.


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#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.


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#4: Eat and drink regularly.

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.


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Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.


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#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.


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#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.


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In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

i)   Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly.

ii)   Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.

iii)   Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.

iv)   Barbell front squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!

v)   Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.

vi)   Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Stand with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance.


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Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells.

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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