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Mashatu: The Camps

10th July 2023

Mashatu: The Camps

The Mashatu Game Reserve in the Tuli Block of south-eastern Botswana remains high on our list of safari recommendations as an enjoyable, animal and bird-rich destination where off-road driving and night safaris are possible. Mashatu has a choice of properties ranging from classic tented rooms to deluxe air-conditioned villas, as well as an unrivaled range of ‘out of the vehicle’ activities including photo hide sessions, foot safaris, mountain bike safaris and horse-back safaris. There is also the exciting WalkMashatu foot safari option, which can be customized to include any variety of lodge walks, lodge to lodge walks and fly-camping. 

Since our last visit to Mashatu a few years ago, there’s been some significant changes, not the least of which is the addition of several new camps, most notably Mashatu Euphorbia Villas, the reserve’s new flagship property. Another notable addition is Tuli Safari Lodge Mashatu, a beautiful 9-roomed – mostly tented – property in the southern part of the reserve. There’s also a new luxury homestead – Kolokolo – which is an ‘exclusive use’ property in the far eastern part of the reserve. I’ll provide a bit more detail on each of the properties here.

TULI SAFARI LODGE

Tuli Safari Lodge simply has the best location and camp site of any of the Mashatu camps, with the rooms and main lodge buildings spread out among some massive trees in a stunningly beautiful spot. Literally tucked in between the riverine forest along the Limpopo and rocky outcrops, behind one of which you will find the camp’s sparkling pool.  It doesn’t take an extended visit to realize that Tuli Safari Lodge has a competent, tightly knit staff complement and the best food! I can see it fitting into many future trips being child-friendly and offering dedicated night drives. Plus one can walk right out of the camp to a nearby hide overlooking a pond, which is ideal for photographers and birders. The camp is also within an easy walk to the banks of the Limpopo River, providing yet another option for exploration. The hybrid tented rooms at Tuli Safari Lodge check all the classic safari boxes: beautiful to look at and exceedingly comfortable and stylish with tons of space, a great big bath with plenty of hot water as well as a huge walk-in shower, two vanities, more than adequate lighting, lots of storage space.  What’s not to like? 

On the day of our arrival we enjoyed an excellent brunch at Tuli. Served al fresco, guests could choose between a lemon & fresh herb chicken burger with french fries, penne pasta with olives, cherry tomatoes and spinach, or spiced pumpkin fritters with Brie cheese, crispy bacon and orange cardamom syrup. If none of that sounded enticing, you could settle for a full English breakfast. And don’t forget about the dessert: your choice of a fruit platter or a scoop or two of Tuli’s house made ice cream.

MASHATU EUPHORBIA VILLAS

In its completed state, Mashatu Euphorbia Villas bears about as much resemblance to the initial artist’s renderings as the modern world does to the Big Bang. It’s truly a work of art and I am sure that many guests will look back upon a visit there as being  a magical experience. I certainly do. It all starts with a winding drive up a steep hill into the most atmospheric euphorbia forest you’ve ever seen in your life. These stark, foreboding cactus plants – sometimes referred to as candelabra trees – loom alongside the drive into camp, a harbinger of what is to come. Crest the hill and suddenly you’re looking at about as dramatic an entrance as there is to any safari camp in Africa. The experience builds from there. The most stunning lounge and dining area – not to mention the outdoor space, the boma and the nest seating area, perched on the edge of a 30-meter high cliff. The view? You just have to see it in person.  

Much of what Euphorbia is about is bringing the outdoors inside, with accents and design features incorporating acacia leaves, euphorbia branches, tree sticks, mopane leaves and seeds, all in a tasteful and playful manner. The rooms are spacious and thoughtfully designed, with an ideal indoor-outdoor balance, and the most comfortable bed (and cushions) we’ve experienced in a very, very long time. I can’t think of enough superlatives to describe our all too brief stay. The couple of meals we had were impeccable.  

MASHATU LODGE

At Mashatu Lodge the main lodge add-ons and repurposing works admirably well, now with an excellent boma for evening dinners around a substantial central fireplace. The lodge has lots of open seating spots for the warmer months, a cozy breakfast room for the chilly winter mornings and it was great to see the Discovery Room in a prominent spot which it absolutely deserves. Serendipitously, we got to spend a few minutes there with Mashatu professional guide Tjandapiwa Lesifi. Better known as TJ, she answered several questions we had and we considered ourselves fortunate to meet her.

The rooms at Mashatu Lodge are perfectly fine (good air-conditioning/heating!) and spacious but they do have their limitations in terms of design and overall aesthetic impact. There’s just so much one can do with rooms which were clearly designed several decades ago. At the price point they offer fantastic value and there’s nothing intrinsically deficient; it’s simply a matter of not being ‘special’ in the way that the other camps’ rooms are. The food at Mashatu Lodge was perhaps a bit more uneven than elsewhere: on one day dinner (served in the boma) was excellent, the next day not so much. Even so, the brunch served on the lawn on the day of our departure was stellar – and so many choices!

MASHATU TENT CAMP

On this trip, we did not overnight at Mashatu Tent Camp but did a thorough site inspection; we’ve stayed there twice before. From what I could see, nothing much has changed and that is great. It is still a small, intimate tented camp with a peaceful, ‘close to nature’ feel, where keen photographers and birders can walk – sight unseen – into a covered hide and spend as much time as they wish, observing the comings and goings at the waterhole. The camp has a particularly nice pool for the summer months. The rooms are quite small by comparison with the others, but they have doors (so no struggling with zippers) and there’s an open space behind the actual room, leading to the outside but safely enclosed bathroom & toilet.  

SHA-LIMPO AND KOLOKOLO

We made the trip all the way out to Sha-Limpo and Kolokolo, two new additions to the Mashatu portfolio, close to the confluence of the Shashe and the Limpopo, on the far eastern edge of the Tuli Block. Kathy and I really liked what we saw and experienced at the Kolokolo homestead, an ‘exclusive use’ property with 4 rooms, each with its own en suite bathroom. The beautifully renovated one-story property has an ideal location on high ground overlooking the Limpopo floodplain. A prominent feature is some impressive leadwood trees, with two giant specimens seemingly tucked in right along the western side of the house. Kolokolo has space in abundance, inside and out, with an added bonus of pleasing ‘white noise’ from a nearby weir in the Limpopo River. Which of course won’t be audible when the river isn’t flowing but it was when we were there… Kolokolo would be an ideal choice for a party ranging from around 6 to 8 persons and one could combine it with a stay at Tuli Safari Lodge or Euphorbia.

The bottom line about Mashatu: reliably excellent game-viewing, professional and experienced guiding and a range of accommodation to suit every taste and budget. Relatively easy to reach from South Africa, even if and when the journey ends with a cable car ride across the Limpopo. Call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to talk about making your first or return trip to Mashatu. 

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Your next trip: the southern Serengeti?

7th June 2023

Your next trip: the southern Serengeti?

The annual wildebeest migration in northern Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains and extending into Kenya’s Masai Mara can be a spectacular event. Observing masses of wildebeest instinctively plunging down a steep embankment into a river where gigantic Nile crocodiles lie in wait is about as exciting as it gets on safari. 

Unfortunately the migration is a hit and miss affair with the movement of the herds largely dictated by increasingly unpredictable rainfall patterns and the consequent availability of freshly emerging grass. With the best information about historical migration patterns and a careful, even meticulous choice of area and camp, it can still go wrong. You end up somewhere and the wildebeest are somewhere else. Observing a river crossing? Mostly just luck and not wisdom. 

What is a keen wildlife enthusiast to do? My advice would be to consider visiting Tanzania at a different time of the year, from January through the end of March, and spending time in the southern short-grass plains of the Serengeti, focusing on the Ndutu area. This is where the herds congregate for the calving season and where they can be observed in a setting which is often just as dramatic and impactful as when they are on the move.  

On a recent late February visit to Ndutu, flying in from Seronera (the central part of the Serengeti), I could see from the air – even before landing – that we were smack in the middle of the migration. There were thousands of wildebeest – with zebras mixed in – all over the open savannah.  

The experience on the ground confirmed my first impressions. Over the next several days, we were entranced by the wildebeest – and their babies – and we were reminded just how good game viewing can be on the Serengeti plains. At times we could see hundreds, if not thousands of wildebeest, often stretching out to the horizon in an arc of at least 270 degrees. There were hundreds and hundreds of baby wildebeest around scampering about on their tiny little legs, every bit as fast as the adults.  

One morning we witnessed a line of wildebeest running – for reasons which we couldn’t figure out – through the woodland in the direction of the open plains. It seemed to go on and on, group after group following hot on each other’s heels. Speeding up, slowing down, kicking up their heels, instinct driving them to blindly follow the ones in front of them as they hurtled through the woodland. This went on for minutes as we watched, spellbound. There is simply no way to capture the true magnitude of the event on film, video or in words. It’s something you just have to observe in person to appreciate the full visual and auditory impact.

CHEETAHS

The southern Serengeti may very well be the best place to see cheetahs in Africa. We had not even made it to our mobile tented camp when we detoured to a cheetah sighting en route. It ended up being one of the best experiences of the entire trip, observing a female cheetah with her four subadult offspring. Initially resting up under a bush, she eventually walked right past us, her youngsters following in single file.  

Twice we watched other cheetahs feast on a freshly killed baby wildebeest. One a solitary female and the other a female with three young cubs around 5 or 6 months old. Watching cheetahs feed is intense – as all big cat feeding is – but less so than with lions and leopards. Mostly because the cheetahs manage to keep their faces relatively clean in the process. Not quite as gory an affair. 

A major advantage of the southern Serengeti – over the northern Serengeti – is that much of the game viewing in the south takes place in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area where off-road driving is allowed.  This enables visitors to position themselves better for viewing some of the smaller cats such as serval, and to get close enough to cheetahs and leopards for better views and excellent photographic opportunities.

LIONS & MORE LIONS

The Serengeti is famous for its lions and my experience this time was no different than before. We had multiple lion sightings, observing members of three different prides. The Lake Ndutu pride was the most entertaining of the lot, as we watched some of them stalking zebras and running after a giraffe. We spent quite a bit of time observing their play and interaction. With several subadult males and females, they provided lots of entertainment, at least for us human observers. As they are wont to do, one of the females climbed into a tree not far from Lake Ndutu, quietly sitting there for a while before she clambered down.  

One of the other prides had three beautiful young male lions, their full golden manes putting them squarely in the ‘king of the jungle’ category.  

No Africa safari is complete without a lion sighting. If you’re headed to the Serengeti, you won’t have to worry about striking out on these iconic big cats. They are common and multiple daily lion sightings are not unusual. With around 3,000 lions present in the greater Serengeti, there’s sure to be one with your name on it. 

ANTELOPES, GAZELLES, ZEBRAS & BUFFALOES

The wildebeest migration is called just that for a reason, but it wouldn’t be half the spectacle it is without the thousands of zebras which accompany the wildebeest on the annual trek. In their unmistakable black and white chevron coats, they stand out among the rather more drab wildebeest. The two species benefit from each other’s presence in several ways. It starts with feeding. The zebras normally feed on the top parts of the grasses, allowing the wildebeest to easily access the short grass, which is their preference. Also, zebras have excellent eyesight which enables them to act as an early warning alert, being able to spot predators at a considerable distance. Wildebeest have a well developed sense of hearing. Add the element of ‘safety in numbers’ and it is hardly surprising that the two species are seen together as much as they are.  

The Serengeti is home to no less than 16 species of antelopes and gazelles, and over the course of three or four days we were fortunate to see the common eland, impala, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, oribi, kongoni, Kirk’s dik-dik and Defassa waterbuck. In their own way, they were every bit as entertaining as some of the ‘high profile’ mammals. When they weren’t feeding, the herbivores were running, alarm calling and staring down predators. Never a dull moment in the Serengeti. 

While we did not see any large herds of buffaloes, we had some superb early morning sightings of small groups of them, lifting their heads and staring at us in their typical cantankerous fashion. Buffaloes are widely spread throughout the Serengeti and are one of the ‘Big Five’ species which you can pretty much count on seeing regularly. Some of the older buffalo bulls – often sporting massive horns with big ‘bosses’ – can be seen by themselves, or in small groups. They are referred to as ‘dagga’ boys, the word being associated with a local word for mud. Buffaloes have a penchant for rolling in mud, hence their often muddy appearance. Dagga boys  have been pushed out of their herds by younger, dominant bulls. 

GIRAFFES

Then there are the giraffes. There were so many giraffes in the woodland of the Ndutu area that we stopped counting. We didn’t stop watching though. Everything about a giraffe is fascinating: their size, their elongated necks and their heads, seemingly on a stilt. Every day there we watched their odd way of walking, both legs on the left followed by both legs on the right. It changes when they are running, which they do surprisingly well, considering their size and bulk.  

To me, the most fascinating thing about giraffes is how quiet they are. Even under extreme duress – such as when they are being chased by lions – they remain mute. Not a sound escaping their lips. Watching giraffes feed is like watching evolution at work. Over eons they have adapted perfectly to best utilize woodland species and notably acacia trees. The fierce thorns on the acacia do not deter the giraffes one bit. Their hard palate, rubbery lips and tough, rasp-like tongue make them just about impervious to thorns.

ELEPHANTS

There are other places and regions in Africa with more elephants than the Serengeti but you will see a bunch of them nonetheless over the span of a few days. While we were there in the late February time-frame, we enjoyed several good sightings, notably of a breeding herd of about 30 or 40 of them with multiple babies. We watched the antics of the little ones and their siblings and other youngsters. On our last day in the area the herd had consolidated even more and there were close to 50 of them in a relatively small area. One massive bull was lurking in the distance, slowly closing in on the herd. It appeared that he was in musth, a normal condition in adult elephant males, associated with high levels of testosterone and a spurt in energy during which they show heightened aggression and unpredictability. 

WHERE TO STAY

Personally I think the best way to experience the southern Serengeti and the migration is to spend a few days in a mobile tented camp. There is nothing that beats it for its immediacy and unfiltered contact with the wilderness. You can hear the wildebeest mothers making their non-stop contact calls – a frog-like grunt – to stay in touch with their babies. Even more haunting and evocative of the true wilderness – at least in my opinion – are the braying calls of the zebras ringing out at night. Simply magical. All of this is  best appreciated under canvas in a small camp with minimal impact from the noise associated with vehicles or generators or other human-associated sources.

There are a couple of excellent permanent lodges in the southern Serengeti as well so if you want something a bit more solid than a tent, it can be done. Either way, do consider the southern Serengeti for a winter breakaway early in 2024. Call or email us for more information and a couple of suggestions.  

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Letter from Kenya

1st June 2023

Letter from Kenya

The best destination for a first safari? The ideal country for a ‘one and done’ safari? The classic of all classic safari areas in Africa? Kenya, Kenya and Kenya. 

For the last 10 days, Kathy and I have been revisiting four areas in Kenya which help make it what it is: an astonishingly diverse, breathtakingly beautiful country. A country which lives up to even the most elevated of expectations for a safari. Lots of animals which are easy to see. The friendliest of people. And a well functioning tourism infrastructure with accommodation choices to suit everyone’s taste and budget. 

Early on, at Elewana’s Tortilis Camp in Amboseli, we rediscovered the feelings and emotions which go hand in hand with being on safari. The feeling of being in the right place. The pervasive sense of being connected with your surroundings. Almost as if Africa is where you belong and where you’re meant to be.

It is not unusual to experience deja vu while on safari in Kenya. On just our second night at Amboseli with Mt. Kilimanjaro slowly disappearing as the last light faded to black, I felt oddly at home. Or maybe I never really left the last time. The distinct feeling of having lived that precise moment already – of having the same experience again – was as palpable as the evening breeze on my skin. As many times as this has happened to me and other people I know, I’ve almost come to expect it in Africa. Maybe it is just a memory of a dream. Or something buried deep in our subconscious mind, hearkening back to our progenitors who spread out into the world from this very area. Africa. It’s good to be back.  

All an Africa aficionado has to do is to enunciate four words out loud and something magical happens… Amboseli. Meru. Samburu. Lewa. The mind lights up with visions of elephants wallowing in an idyllic swamp setting. With images of one of East Africa’s best safari lodges, its rooms carefully tucked in among giant granite boulders. With pictures of a Samburu warrior – dressed to the hilt in ceremonial garb – straddling a boda-boda noisily taking its owner to the weekly market. With recollections of conservation work encompassing habitat, wildlife and the local community – rivaled by none. 

Traveling within Kenya in the typical ‘safari cocoon’ – where everything is taken care of and you literally just have to show up each morning – we were once again wowed by the country’s dazzling diversity of animals, landscapes and experiences. All without setting foot in the Masai Mara, its crown jewel.  

In just 9 nights on safari – with quite a bit of time taken up with site inspections – we tallied 36 mammal species and 145 bird species. The numbers – even as impressive as they are – become almost meaningless in the light of specific experiences. Here are a few:

Incredibly, two cheetah kills on the same day. Both kills made by female cheetahs taking down young Grant’s gazelles. One in Samburu, practically within sight of Elephant Bedroom Camp and the other one in Lewa on a game drive from Lewa Wilderness Lodge. We watched, spellbound, awestruck by the cheetahs’ amazing turn of speed as they ran down the overmatched gazelles.

Several hundred strikingly beautiful lesser flamingos reflected in the glassy surface of Lake Amboseli, superimposed with the reflection of Mt Kilimanjaro. An abundance of riches.

A powerful tawny eagle striking a cattle egret midair and downing it. Upon our approach, the eagle took off right in front of us. With the unfortunate egret gripped tightly in its talons, the eagle made its way to a distant copse of trees. Ironically, the dead egret’s immaculate white plumage shone like a beacon against the eagle’s chocolate brown feathers.

Two female lions walking along a track in Samburu, their ultra-lean appearance telling a story of hardship among plenty. Tall grasses creating ideal cover for herbivores whose numbers had plunged due to a long and only recently broken drought. The result? Hard times for lions.

A kaleidoscope of vividly colored reticulated giraffes, their rich orange-brown pattern creating the most stunning of natural tapestries. Converging and separating, their extraordinarily long necks jutting out in every direction – they were nothing short of Daliesque.

All of these extraordinary sightings came courtesy of our outstanding guides – John Njoroge in Amboseli, Joel Gachora in Meru and Francis Mayetu at Lewa. We also reconnected with our long-time friend Edwin Selempo, head guide of Origins Safaris, our Kenya destination management company for the last 20-plus years. In his usual inimitable way, Edwin capably guided us in Samburu. As always, he wowed us with his amazing birding skills, the easy and almost unobtrusive way in which he imparts information and his sunny disposition. Witty repartee? Better have it ready when traveling with Edwin.

AMBOSELI

Tanzania has the mountain and Kenya has the view.  All too true when said about Kilimanjaro when viewed from Amboseli National Park. Amboseli is the spot from where you can see Kilimanjaro like you’ve always imagined it: a great big looming mountain abruptly jutting out of the open plains, surrounded by nothing. Which makes it, as the guidebooks say, the world’s highest freestanding mountain.  

The perfect Amboseli photo opportunity? Having a few of Amboseli’s strikingly white-tusked elephants in between you and the mountain… Beyond needing a bit of luck for that, you’ll need a competent guide who understands the movements of the elephants into and out of the swamps and who can anticipate where they will be at specific times of the day. Plus of course the mountain has to be visible, which is not always the case. 

As massive as it is, Kilimanjaro is as evanescent as an image on an Etch-A-Sketch. One minute there, the next minute – gone. Your best chance to see it is usually early in the morning or late in the afternoon during the wetter part of the year, from about November through May. During the dry season from June through October, the mountain often disappears completely, hidden behind a hazy curtain of clouds, fog, dust and smoke.  

Did we see the mountain? Did we ever! Kili was out from our arrival to our departure, morning until night. If we never see Kilimanjaro again, that amazingly evocative picture will be emblazoned in our memories forever. The incredible snow-capped bulk of it, its overwhelming presence transforming a nice corner of Africa into a place you simply have to see and experience.

MERU

Meru National Park is Kenya’s forgotten secret. The park gained a measure of fame – and lots of visitors – in the late 1960’s after the release of  ‘Born Free,’ a movie about Elsa, an orphaned lion cub. Elsa was hand-raised by Joy Adamson and her game-warden husband George, right in Meru. Ironically – and often omitted from the tale – George had to shoot Elsa’s mother in self-defense when the lioness attacked him while trying to protect her cubs. Elsa, one of three surviving cubs, was successfully released back into the Meru wilderness a couple of years later. After being away in England for more than a year, the Adamsons returned to Meru and found Elsa – who still remembered them – with three cubs of her own.

Then the story of Meru took a turn for the worse. Invading bandits and poachers from Somalia decimated the wildlife for much of the late 1980’s and 90’s. Visitors stopped coming and the park fell into neglect. It wasn’t until 2000 when the Kenya Wildlife Service, under the leadership of Richard Leakey and with the financial support of private conservation groups, was able to invest substantial amounts of money into combating poaching and restoring the park to its former glory.

Current day Meru is once again a showcase park, famous for its striking African savanna landscapes and its diversity, with the park containing an extraordinarily high number of different mammals and birds. Even so, the park is still lightly visited compared with most of Kenya’s others. On one occasion we spent the better part of 40 minutes observing a lone female lion beneath a tree on the edge of a stream without so much as one other vehicle driving by. Some 13 perennial streams flow through Meru from west to east, defining the landscape of the park. The rivers – which are part of the Tana River basin – act as magnets for wildlife, particularly in the dry season which stretches from June through September.  

We simply love Elsa’s Kopje where we rested our weary heads for a couple of nights in Meru. This stunning property is considered by many to be one of the most spectacular locations and lodge designs in Africa. In addition to its splendid location, with its individually designed rooms artfully obscured by vegetation and rocks on the slope of an inselberg, Elsa’s has a charming central area overlooking an infinity pool, and a solid reputation for good food, great hospitality and top-notch management. 

SAMBURU

Samburu is Africa right down to its ubiquitous red dust which gives its many elephants their telltale cinnamon brown appearance. It can be a harsh and unforgiving place, particularly in times of drought which can last for months, even years. Dry or not, Samburu is always dramatic. If it’s not the striking vegetation – dominated by massive stands of doum palms – it’s the glimpses of far-off mountains like Ololokwe, the sacred mountain of the Samburu.

Be on the lookout for the unique gerenuk antelope in this area; it is easily recognized by its long thin neck, its tendency to stand on its hind legs to browse and its peculiar ‘ET’-like facial features. While visiting Samburu we recommend taking some time to visit a local manyatta. Squeeze into one of the smoky, bare-bones huts and observe the near total absence of so many material things we take for granted. 

Elephant Bedroom Camp, where we spent two nights, is a small camp hidden among the riverine forest on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River. The camp is right in the heart of the best game viewing area of Samburu and guests don’t have to drive miles and miles (as is the case from some other camps) to see the wildlife. Guests from other camps drive here. Over the course of our 3-night stay there were lions, leopards, cheetahs and African painted dogs seen within a mile from the camp. Also an aardwolf.

LEWA

Every once in a while on my African travels I discover a place which immediately appeals to me. Bonus? When I realize that our guests will enjoy and appreciate it as well. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is one of those places. Lewa is special on many levels. Back when I first visited in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘Out of Africa.’ It was no different this time around. Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa.’ Standing there on a clear day on an elevated spot, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south. If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe. Mountains, valleys, vast open grassy plains and the gray-blue horizon seemingly reaching up to the clouds.

Other ways in which Lewa is special? It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa. Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 255 rhinos currently, a significant percentage of all rhinos in Kenya. Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s zebra, beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe. Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful. Lewa has an enviable record as a hugely successful wildlife conservation entity and for effectively involving the surrounding community and mobilizing their support. 

So what is a keen safari enthusiast to do? If you’ve never been to Kenya, give us a call at 1 800 513-5222 or email me (bert@fisheaglesafaris.com) to discuss some options and let’s get you on a flight to Nairobi. With the possible exception of April and May, Kenya is a true year-round destination. For the wildebeest & zebra migration, July through October are the best months but there’s much to be said for November through March as well. Been to Kenya before? No reason not to go back. Kenya is the most diverse safari destination of all and there is always somewhere new to explore, or a different time of the year to visit. Take a few friends and book one of the exclusive use properties at Ithumba or Galdessa for the most amazing orphan elephant experience of a lifetime!

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Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

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Nyerere National Park
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When to go on safari

4th May 2023

When to go on safari

Just like with so many other things, inflationary trends have been affecting the safari space for several years now and we are anticipating increases of between 10% to as much as 18% for 2024, compared with the prices in effect for this year. Of course the best way to avoid any increases is to travel before the higher prices come into effect.  

Short of that, there are two main drivers of safari prices which can help you in the quest for an affordable yet high-quality African safari.  The two factors are place and season. Every safari destination in Africa has one or two prime locations and a handful of properties which command top dollar rates, particularly in the high demand season from about June through October. At that time of the year – in the prime safari areas – it is simply a matter of supply and demand and with as few rooms as they have available, prices can and do reach eye-watering levels.  

However, if you start looking for a trip at a different time and in a different place, the picture changes dramatically. You can go on safari in countries like Zimbabwe and Zambia at the peak of their high season and enjoy a fantastic trip which will be half the cost of a comparable trip in a country with more name recognition or a more established reputation. Likewise, the difference between high season and shoulder season pricing can be significant, with often only minor differences in the experience.  

The best prices are to be found for travel in the low demand season. Off-season travel in Africa can be immensely satisfying for visitors who can handle some heat and high humidity, and perhaps a thunderstorm or two. A little bit of discomfort is more than offset by the abundance of baby animals, the birds in breeding plumage, the lush, green surroundings, stunning sunsets and sunrises and by not having so many other people around.  

Here are our top recommendations for an African safari which will tick all the boxes: lots of animals, plenty of diversity, excellent guiding – at an affordable price.

SOUTH AFRICA AND NAMIBIA

South Africa is a veritable ‘world in one country’ with diversity that is rivaled only by Kenya. It has several excellent wildlife areas, most of which are malaria-free including the Eastern Cape, Waterberg and Madikwe. South Africa’s greater Kruger Park area has some of Africa’s best all-round safari camps in areas where the ‘Big Five’ mammals are seen practically every day of the year, week in and week out.  

Namibia leans more in the direction of a ‘desert and dune’ experience but the wildlife viewing in places such as Etosha in the north, the Waterberg Plateau, Damaraland and even on the edge of the Skeleton Coast such as along the Hoanib River, can be excellent. Namibia also has remarkable cultural diversity and a strong conservation ethos.

What is it that combines these two countries in my list of attractive safari propositions for the near future? The value of the South African Rand, of course. Hovering consistently around ZAR 18 to the US dollar and not likely to strengthen rapidly any time soon, the shrinking Rand creates excellent safari deals for dollar-wielding travelers. Not only in South Africa itself but also in neighboring Namibia whose currency – the Namibia dollar – is pegged at the same value as the South African Rand. 

SOUTH AFRICA TRIP IDEAS

There are a myriad of trip combinations which can be anchored by South Africa. It’s always a good idea to start your South Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city.’ Enjoy the local sights, two of which rank in Africa’s most celebrated natural wonders – Table Bay and Table Mountain. A little bit adventurous? Try the Platteklip hike up to the summit of Table Mountain and take the cable car trip down. Be sure to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (it’s a jewel), check out the endemic African penguins (Africa’s only penguin species) at Boulders Beach and take the funicular to the viewpoint at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.  

From Cape Town, fly to the greater Kruger Park area and spend a week on safari in a lodge of your choice – to fit your budget – in a private game reserve adjacent to the park. There are many options to choose from in areas like the Sabi Sand Reserve, Timbavati, Manyeleti and Thornybush. All of them are ‘Big Five’ reserves where you are likely to see elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and buffaloes over the course of a few days. And a lot else besides, of course.  Advantages of traveling here rather than some other destinations? Mostly the ability to drive off-road which can get you closer to some of the smaller cats and other special sightings, and also the ability to drive after the sun is down for a chance to see some of the nocturnal animals.

Instead of, or in addition to the Kruger Park area, you may wish to include some time in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region which also has abundant wildlife. Private game reserves like Kwandwe, Kariega and Shamwari are located in extraordinarily beautiful landscapes, filled with green rolling hills and valleys and patches of riverine forest, scrub and woodland. A bonus? This area is malaria-free so is ideal for families with young children or anyone wanting to avoid having to use malaria prophylaxis.  

Two other attractive safari destinations in South Africa include the Waterberg and Madikwe regions, both of which are also in malaria-free areas. Of course, it is easy to travel from South Africa into any of the neighboring countries including Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia.

NAMIBIA TRIP IDEAS

Namibia is very much a ‘desert and dune’ destination, with the area around Sossusvlei with its giant red sand dunes being considered Namibia’s signature sight. So by all means spend a couple of days there and marvel at the scene of a white gravel plain with apricot dunes in the background, an azure blue sky and stark, semi-fossilized trees providing a focal point for the quintessential Namibia photograph. 

Of course from there you’d want to go on safari and find some of the country’s signature animals such as the gemsbok, black-faced impala, springbok and Damara dik-dik. Together with elephants, black and white rhino, and the big cats. All of these and more can be found in the greater Etosha National Park area to the north and elsewhere. A little beyond the regular safari circuit lies the Skeleton Coast National Park which we regularly include on Namibia trips, either by having guests spend a few days at a camp on the edge of the park or right inside it, or by doing a fly-in safari which whisks guests from one enigmatic spot to another. There’s a lot more to Namibia including the quaint town of Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay harbor with bird-laden estuaries and worthwhile marine excursions, and remote safari camps in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. This is where guests can embark on day safaris in search of the elusive black rhino, a successful day culminating with the guests approaching the black rhinos on foot from a safe and respectful distance. There will be a small team from Namibia’s successful ‘Save the Rhino’ Trust on hand to provide background information on the success of the program, and the challenges ahead. 

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

Zimbabwe and Zambia are two of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. Prospects for Zimbabwe’s tourism sector have taken a much more positive turn now that the country is fully in the post-Mugabe era. Despite having a superior safari product, the Zimbabwe properties are not able to command the stellar pricing of some of its competitors – notably Botswana – Which creates opportunities for visitors to enjoy a fantastic safari – very much comparable to that of Botswana – at literally 50% of the Botswana cost, in the high season months from June through October.

Zambia is perhaps just not as well known as it should be and its safari season is quite short with many of its camps in the South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue regions being closed for the rainy season from November through the end of March. None of this affects the safari experience in Zambia. In fact, a Zambia safari delivers a wonderful all-round experience with none of the congestion of some of its most popular rivals and at a much lower price point. Zambia has even shelved its visa entry fee of $50 per person.

For Zimbabwe, our associates Imvelo Safaris have some  dazzling specials for the low-demand season, with great savings for families traveling with children and single travelers. These include a stay 7/pay 5 offer from November 2023 through March 2024 (except for the holidays) and a free private guide and vehicle for groups of four or more. There’s more: children under 18 will be accommodated free of charge (park fees and transfers only) on any stay of three nights or longer, from January 1 through the end of April 2024. Victoria Falls, Hwange, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools: a Zimbabwe trip is filled with excitement, big game, lots of optional activities such as boating, fishing, and foot safaris – for less than you might anticipate.  

Most Zimbabwe itineraries include two or more of the areas below, in no specific sequence:  

Victoria Falls – usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls & perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi. The Falls are an awesome sight in April and May particularly – when the Zambezi is in flood stage – but they are always worth seeing from the Zimbabwe side (main falls).  

Hwange National park – This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of elephants, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs. So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana, or for that matter Kenya. Rhinos have been re-introduced to the Hwange area which now (again, as in the past) makes the park a ‘Big Five’ destination. There’s more. Hwange has a couple of very special antelopes not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally interesting roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and dozens of other families of birds. Hwange is an ideal park for walking safaris, mostly because of the proficiency of the Zimbabwe professional guides, who are at their best on foot, rifle in hand. 

Mana Pools – Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game and African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too. Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis due to the relatively high cost of flying there. However we do offer some trips which include flying at no or reduced cost. There is a minimum stay requirement. Mana Pools has a well-deserved reputation for being an ideal park for foot safaris.  

Lake Kariba – and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake. A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba is a superb addition to almost any Zimbabwe trip. Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible. I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake where elephants and other animals can often be seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.  

The Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe. This region of Zimbabwe is another one where rhinos can be observed in the wild. Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of SE Utah. It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes. This area is spectacular, particularly at sunset. It is easy to move on to Hwange National Park from the Matobos by road.

For Zambia, I can think of no better trip than a 10-night Zambia exploration with Classic Zambia, priced at about $6,500 per person sharing in May and June, increasing to just over $8,000 per person sharing for the high season months from July through October. This would be a fantastic safari combining two of Africa’s finest and wildest wildlife areas, Kafue and the Lower Zambezi. Please call or email for detailed information about these and other safari options.  

Zambia is a massive country and it should come as no surprise that it has several excellent safari areas, notably the South Luangwa National Park, the Lower Zambezi National Park and the Kafue region. None of these are heavily visited and the Kafue – which is much bigger than South Africa’s vast Kruger National park – attracts about one tenth of the number of visitors of the Kruger. 

The South Luangwa National Park is known for its walking safaris and the chance to see a wide variety of animals such as elephants, lions and leopards. On a recent trip there we witnessed a crocodile trying to rob a hyena of its prey. It was a spellbinding scene observed by just us. No other vehicle showed up over the entire 30 minutes or so we spent at the sighting.  

The Lower Zambezi National Park is another popular destination, offering river safaris on the Zambezi and the opportunity to see hippos, crocodiles and abundant birdlife. For the adventurous traveler, I would recommend a canoe safari in one of the backwaters off the main river. It can be an adrenaline-inducing experience gliding by several hippos, your natural apprehension being somewhat assuaged by the fact that you have an experienced guide in control of the canoe.  

The Kafue National Park is the largest park in Zambia and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including elephants, lions and cheetahs. Several small, remote camps in the Kafue are ideal for a ‘back to basics’ experience where what matters most is what happens outside the tent. It is all about the wilderness experience, about observing the wildlife in their most natural setting, and being able to do it essentially with just your guide and the few other people in the vehicle with you.  

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Secrets of Tsavo, Kenya

3rd May 2023

Secrets of Tsavo, Kenya

On my last visit to Tsavo, I fell in love with Africa all over again. It was one thing after another, starting and ending of course, with elephants. Elephants at the waterhole just outside Kilaguni Serena Lodge, big tuskers at a water trough just inside the entrance to Tsavo East, a trio of cheeky elephants taking doum palm nuts out of our hands at Galdessa Camp on the Galana River, multiple small herds of elephants – all thirsty and hungry and dusty – around the water holes between Satao and Aruba Lodge. We could see them kicking up Tsavo’s signature red dust as they made their way through the parched landscape, headed for water. Surprisingly, given the extent and duration of the drought, the elephants were still doing well with lots of youngsters around.  

We spent an absorbing couple of hours or so with the orphan elephants at the Sheldrick Voi Unit. Observing their joyful exuberance at feeding time and getting to be up close and personal with them is one of East Africa’s most enriching wildlife experiences. Positioning ourselves in partial shade under a large tree, we waited about 20 minutes or so until the first small group of orphans rushed up to their handlers, who were standing just meters away from us, each one holding a large bottle of elephant formula. 

Drinking with gusto, the young elephants drained the bottles in what felt like barely a couple of minutes, their faces quickly taking on what could only be a look of utter contentment. Most of the young elephants consume two bottles of formula before they amble off to drink some water or dip into a pool, only to cover themselves with the red Tsavo dust immediately afterwards.

Small group after small group, the elephants kept coming, about 30 or so in total. By the time the youngsters had all been fed, a group of about 10 to 12 totally wild elephants had walked up to the water trough specially prepared for the orphans. Clearly used to each other’s presence, the two groups shared the water without any signs of rancor or strife. 

We watched the unfolding scene for a good 30 minutes or so, with various members of our party interacting with some of the orphans. One young female elephant was particularly agreeable and she had her little trunk all over us, literally inhaling our scent and breath. On the way back to our camp at Galdessa we could not stop talking about what an amazing experience this was, and we were already thinking about returning to Ithumba or Galdessa in the future. 

Also in Tsavo – at Ithumba Hill – visitors can expect an even more immersive orphan elephant experience due to the proximity of the stockade (where the young elephants sleep at night) to the safari lodge where the guests reside. It’s barely 10 minutes from one to the other so you can be around the elephants multiple times per day:  when they are being bottle-fed and enjoying a mud bath in the veld, prior to going to sleep after another feeding including some hay and again early in the morning as they wake up to the prospect of another day of being pampered by the Sheldrick crew. 

DRIVING FROM TSAVO WEST TO TSAVO EAST

To experience Tsavo is to experience Africa in a pure, unadulterated setting. Not too many other vehicles or people around, just a few interesting safari camps and lodges, and lots of diversity. This was my second time driving from Kilaguni in Tsavo West all the way to the Galana River in Tsavo East. Just like the first time, it was an absorbing and fascinating journey, marveling at some of the most spectacular scenery of any in Kenya. The game-viewing en route was nothing short of phenomenal with elephants and buffaloes seemingly everywhere, plenty of giraffes and several of the scarce and elusive Lesser Kudu. Other vehicles? Just one in more than three hours.  

Beyond the elephants, the diversity, the scenery and its ‘old Africa’ appeal, Tsavo is where you will come across the spectacular Shetani Lava Flow and cool, beautiful Mzima Springs. We wrote about those two extraordinary places in an earlier blog post about Tsavo. On our most recent trip to Tsavo, we had the opportunity to get a closer look at the Yatta Plateau and the Galana River, two more of Tsavo’s hidden secrets.

THE YATTA PLATEAU AND THE GALANA RIVER

The Yatta Plateau is fascinatingly odd with an uncannily flat top and abrupt ‘end.’ Park yourself a few miles to the south of the plateau and it looks every bit like a lake which seemingly froze in its tracks. Which is of course  exactly what it is. A massive river of igneous rock, the world’s longest lava flow, stretching almost 300 km from its origin near Ol Doinyo Sabuk, northeast of Nairobi.  

At the base of the Yatta plateau runs the Galana River – the second longest river in Kenya after the Tana River. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s Galdessa camps are perched on high ground, hidden in a huge grove of doum palms right on the banks of the Galana where it flows through a shallow valley with stands of trees and thick vegetation on both sides. Remarkably – considering that the area was in the throes of a severe, sustained drought at the time of our visit – the Galana was still flowing strongly, its wide expanse of clear, cool water acting as a life-sustaining magnet for a myriad of life forms. For much of its nearly 400 km (250 mile) long course, the Galana flows through a harsh, semi-arid landscape where its water is literally the difference between life and death. At the intriguing Lugard Falls, a few miles down-river from Galdessa, the Galana narrows into a series of rapids, waterfalls and weirdly shaped pools, the result of millions of years of erosion. The jaggedly eroded volcanic rock creates a scene of  stunning natural beauty. It’s tempting to want to clamber around and over the rocks to get the perfect view, but visitors beware:  danger lurks in the form of crocodiles and hippos. 

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3rd October 2022

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Area
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Tanzania

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Destinations
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