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Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town

8th January 2021

Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town


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Hiking Table Mountain, Cape Town

Starting as a child with my family and later with my wife and our two young boys, I spent many a summer holiday in Cape Town.  For us up-country visitors, a cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain was something we did on every visit to Cape Town, an annual pilgrimage of sorts.  It was never a question of if, just when.  We’d try to pick a good day with not too much wind or cloud cover, park close to the base station and fall in line for tickets.


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Somehow, despite all those trips up and down, it never occurred to us to hike up the mountain.  Sure, we’d walk around once we reached the top, explore a few of the trails and peer down some scary looking cliffs, or stare out at Robben Island in the distance.   In hindsight, I do recall looking down from the cable car a few times and seeing hikers making their way up one of the trails.  Specifically the one which I now know to be India Venster.   I do remember being somewhat bemused by seeing people climbing Table Mountain.   The cable car was convenient, safe and fast.  Why walk when you can ride…


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Fast forward four decades, and I’m the one on the trail, slowly making my way, one step at a time,  to the top.  Of course, the only thing hiking the mountain and taking the cable car have in common is that they both get you to the summit, or the base.  Nothing else.  Hiking up the mountain takes a little longer,  but not so much – lately.  The combined waiting time for tickets (one line) and the actual ride (another line) often exceeds two to three hours.  More than enough time for a reasonably fit person to hike up Platteklip Gorge which is the fastest route up the mountain.


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Hiking the mountain has many other rewards, beyond just making it to the top.  Number one being the views.  Weather permitting, all of the hikes have amazing views – some more so than others.  I have yet to hike India Venster but I am told that its views of the city bowl, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, and the ocean in the background, are among the best of any of the routes.


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That should be reason enough.  But there’s more.  It is only when you’re out there on foot that you discover the full extent of the biodiversity of the mountain.  On some of the routes like Skeleton Gorge you’ll be walking within a typical afro-montane forest, seemingly in a different world, yet just a stone’s throw from the heart of the city.  Pretty much anywhere on the mountain you’ll discover plants or flowers you’ve never seen before.


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Chances are that they will be endemic to the area,  simply because more than  1,500 of the 2,200 or so plants found in the greater Table Mountain complex do not occur anywhere else in the world.    On my first Table Mountain hike the most notable plant I became acquainted with was the blister bush, or mountain celery.  Stay clear!  If you brush up against its leaves (particularly bruised ones) and then get exposed to sunlight, you will likely develop some painful blisters in a day or two. Our guide Lauren Medcalf has a particular interest in botany and she was keen  to point out some fascinating fynbos species ranging from delicate daisies and ericas to lilies, proteas in abundance and many more.

One more benefit of hiking the mountain:  bragging rights.  Climb Table Mountain and you’ve conquered one of the world’s seven official new wonders of nature, the only one to be located in an urban area.


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Do not underestimate the mountain though.  It is notorious for rapid, unexpected and sometimes dramatic changes in weather.  So go prepared with some warm clothing and extra water, and go with a qualified, experienced mountain guide.  None of the routes up to the summit are easy and they require a decent level of fitness. With some preparation and the right frame of mind most people should be able to hike Platteklip Gorge; it is pretty much the equivalent of an hour and a half or so of climbing steps; some a little bit irregular but nothing much more than that.  I found Skeleton Gorge to be more strenuous, due to the considerable distance and elevation gain.


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My most recent hike (in Dec. 2020) was in fact the Platteklip Gorge route, guided by Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers.  During the summer months much of the hike is in direct sunlight so it is advisable to get an early start to avoid the heat of the day.  We were fortunate to be able to climb on a foggy, misty day, which turned what might otherwise have been a bit of a slog into a mystical, magical experience.


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From the parking lot, we walked up on the western side of the trail, ascending briefly to a scenic cliff overlook (we had to imagine the view, due to the fog…) and then traversed some flat terrain until we got to the ‘official’ start of the trail.

Platteklip Gorge is the most popular hike on the front side of Table Mountain, and it can be done by most people who are reasonably fit and mobile.  No special skills or climbing ability needed.  It takes a while to find your rhythm but soon enough, you’ll feel your pulse rate increase, you’ll start to perspire and before you know it, you’re halfway there.


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The hike follows a well laid out switchback path with mostly rock steps and it winds its way ever upwards, increasing in elevation by about 1,000 feet or so.  The gorge narrows towards the top, where there are some prominent rocks for a photograph or two.  At the summit, you’re barely 15 minutes from the cable car terminus building.


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Other than a few runners and other hikers passing us, there were very few people on the summit of Table Mountain that day.  This was partially due to the foggy conditions, but mostly because of the Covid situation.   We took a quick ride down on the cable car; for the first time ever in my experience we were given the choice to have the car rotate or not.  Must be as a result of the three of us being the only passengers in the car which ordinarily takes as many as 60 persons.


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Lauren was also the guide on my previous Table Mountain hike (in March 2020) when we made the climb up Skeleton Gorge and down Nursery Ravine.  That time, we started the hike in the beautiful Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, having paid the regular entry fee.  From there the climb goes up the back of Table Mountain. The first half is shaded and much of it is inside a forested ravine, with shrub and moss-covered slopes, shrouded mostly in shadows.  Along the way, there are a few moderately challenging rock scrambles and a couple of conveniently placed ladders to negotiate.  Take it easy and it’s all doable.


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As we got closer to the top, we started to experience some spectacular views over the city and Table Bay – and then we were there.  At the top of the mountain, standing on a rock, experiencing the joy and sense of achievement that come with completing a strenuous hike.  All in all, it was a tough climb, made less so by stopping a couple of times for some snacks and drinks.  Eventually, we enjoyed a light lunch break on the sandy “beach” at the (then empty) Hely-Hutchinson water reservoir. It’s one of five reservoirs on the mountain which supplies the city of Cape Town with fresh drinking water.


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I consider myself fortunate to have been introduced to Lauren Medcalf by a mutual acquaintance, Terry MacBean of Wilro Cape.  Lauren is the owner and founder of Mother City Hikers, the company which we and several of our Safari Pros colleagues recommend for our guests who want to climb the mountain, or just do some hiking in Cape Town.  Lauren has all the attributes of a great mountain hiking guide:  passion, competence, experience and the people skills to make the outing fun and exciting for hikers of any skill level.   She is knowledgeable, well-prepared, authoritative when needed, yet friendly and caring at the same time.


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Here are some extracts from an interview with Lauren from December 2020:

How and when did Mother City Hikers come about?  What was the impetus/inspiration that led to it?  What was it that got you personally interested in hiking and exploring nature in the first place? 

Mother City Hikers started almost 11 years ago! I was often out on Table Mountain (TM) exploring and enjoying my days as when I first arrived from the USA I worked in a restaurant in the evening so I had my days free. I had a wonderful hiking buddy who knew so many of the trails, and he loved all the different fynbos species. His name was Brian Georgeson – a ship’s captain. He passed away a year ago at the age of 75 but we hiked together for the last 10 years of his life. Brian took me on many of the lesser known routes and we would often see people on any/all of the trails who needed some guidance, assistance, food/water/sunscreen, etc. We would help them in whatever way we could and be on our way. I really felt the need to get people off the most common routes with loads of others and get them on the lesser known and more peaceful paths. I wanted to take the guesswork out of it all for others. There is so much you need to know in order to ‘do’ TM right. I wanted to be the one with the knowledge and have the others relax and enjoy it all.

What was it that got you personally interested in hiking and exploring nature in the first place? 

I grew up in the flatlands of America so there wasn’t much hiking. But I can remember hiking a few times with my family and my Grandfather. Those memories of exploring and enjoying nature have stayed with me for life. I met my South African husband in Colorado where we lived in the mountains of Aspen. Living there for 4 years before coming to South Africa really cemented my love for nature and wilderness areas.

What would you suggest for a first time hiker of average ability, maybe on a one time ever visit to Cape Town?  

This is a tricky one as it depends on what they are looking for. There are so many routes to choose from. I would say that most people want to get to the ‘top’ or ‘flat’ part of TM so that lessens the amount of routes to choose from if you are going near the Cableway area. There are no ‘easy’ ways to get to the top so the person really has to want to hike up. If they are up for a less strenuous hike just to get out into nature and learn about the mountain more I would highly recommend our walk on the Pipe Track which goes about 1/3 of the way to the top on the 12 Apostles side of TM. This is a +/-3 hour, out and back route that really shows the beauty of our mountain and there are hardly any others out there!

Or for someone looking for a more challenging hike?  

India Venster is a really excellent and varied hike with some good challenge to it. Although it is short-distance wise, it’s our most technical hike we guide our clients on. If that kind of adventure isn’t your thing and you’re looking for a challenge I would suggest hiking Tranquility Cracks. This is a super scenic and quiet route hiking up and down the 12 Apostles side of TM.

What is your most commonly requested hike and why do you think it is popular?  

Lions Head! It is so nice but oh so busy with many, many hikers on it. The reasons people choose it is because someone they know that has been here has told them about it. Also it was included in ‘top 20 short hikes in the world’ by National Geographic in 2014 and 2015 so has gained a lot of notoriety through that.

Any hiking options that are not too strenuous and would be enjoyed by people with limited physical ability? 

See Pipe Track blurb above. OR the Maclears Beacon walk which goes from the upper Cableway Station (you take cableway up and down mountain and hike at the top) all the way over the the actual highest point on TM (5km/3 mile round trip)

Do you have any personal favorite spots in and around Table Mountain or elsewhere on the Peninsula? 

I absolutely adore a hike up Woody Ravine and down Kasteelspoort on the 12 Apostles side of TM. The views and hike are just gorgeous. A special trip every now and again into Orange Kloof which is a restricted area (need a permit which is not super easy to get-needs to be done in advance as there are only 12 permits per day). I LOVE hiking in Cape Point Nature Reserve as the hiking is gentle and there are some beautiful rock pools and tidal pools to swim in after the hikes too. The opportunity to see more wildlife here is greater than anywhere else on the Cape Peninsula too. The other spot I love to hike is in Jonkershoek in Stellenbosch which has something for all ability levels and also waterfalls and rock pools to enjoy.

What about families with children? 

I recommend the Pipe Track for families, Silvermine Nature Reserve (which is just past Constantia/half way over to Noordhoek), and Newlands Forest. I think allowing kids to be kids and allowing them to have fun along the way is key. It depends on their age and ability level but there really is something for everyone here.


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In our blog next week, we will take a look at the remarkable bio-diversity and landscapes of Tsavo, including the tuskers of southern Tsavo East and a couple of outstanding natural features of Tsavo West, the Shetani Lava Flow and Mzima Springs.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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The orphan elephants of Ithumba, Kenya

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The orphan elephants of Ithumba, Kenya


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The orphan elephants of Ithumba, Kenya

At the foot of the Ithumba Hills in the thick green bush of Tsavo East, live 33 of the most fortunate, unfortunate young elephants in Africa. Most fortunate because they are now being cared for like royalty of the animal kingdom, honored guests of the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.  Unfortunate because they were once the victims of misfortune, greed and human cruelty, all starting out their young lives as orphans of the elephant world.  They ended up abandoned, alone and in need of rescue as a result of drought, human-wildlife conflict, being trapped in a well, stuck in mud or because of poaching (illegal hunting).


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Tsavo East

We started our recent Kenya trip in the rugged landscapes of northern Tsavo East, specifically to interact with the orphan elephants at Ithumba.  I had always wondered what happened to the baby orphan elephants when they ‘graduate’ out of the Sheldrick nursery in Nairobi, and are sent to Ithumba.  We were soon to find out.  At the time of our visit in late November 2020, there were 33 young elephants at Ithumba, being readied for release back into the wild.  To say that it was a moving experience to get a glimpse into the life of the happy inhabitants of Ithumba, is a huge understatement.


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Flying from Wilson Airport in Nairobi on a Cessna 206, it took us just about an hour to make our way to Tsavo East, enjoying distant views of Mt. Kilimanjaro and the Chyulu Hills, en route.  After being met by Steve and Richard Turner of Origins Safaris who were already on the ground in Tsavo, we took a short drive to Ithumba Hill camp, where we would spend the night.  Ithumba Hill is a beautifully located tented camp with fantastic views over the reserve.  The surrounding bush was thick, dense and green after significant recent rainfall.  


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Tsavo East in the rainy season is not without its challenges and just maybe, not the ideal place for first time visitors to Africa.  At least not at that time of the year; the dry season is fine.  In summer, after the rains, the tsetse flies can be pesky.  It can be hot and muggy.  The rest of the world may be experiencing a significant decrease in flying insects, but that is not the case in Tsavo East.  There were more than enough insects, particularly at night, attracted to any source of light.  On the night we were there we experienced an irruption of flying termite alates which might startle someone used to life in a bug-free environment.


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Getting up close with the orphan elephants

Once we had our first introduction to the elephants, all thoughts of flying termites and the temporary discomfort of a tsetse fly bite quickly faded.  This is what we came for.  Having been driven out to a small dam (filled to the brim with water after recent rain), we stood in the shade of a small tree, in an open area right in the bush, not quite sure what to expect.  And then it started.  One after the other, sometimes two or three together, and group by small group, the young elephants emerged from the bush, briskly bearing down on their handlers who were standing ready with their big plastic bottles of milk formula.


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There we were, just the two of us and Richard, enjoying this amazing spectacle as the elephants downed the formula with gusto, some of them holding up the bottles by themselves, wrapping their trunks around it.  Once they had drained it to the last drop, they stepped away and started to huddle together, waiting for the other small groups to finish up their feeding.


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When they were all done, the elephants waded into a dam and in typical young elephant fashion, played and splashed with abandon, slowly making their way from one part of the dam to another where they enjoyed a mud bath of sorts, rolling around on the edge of the dam, as happy as larks.  When they finally started to emerge from the water, a few of them playfully pushed one another around, before they almost reluctantly started to head back out into the bush.


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Later that afternoon we were in position at the elephants’ comfortable stockade – where they sleep at night in separate enclosures as peer groups –  waiting for them to return from a day of being out, browsing the vegetation in the wilderness.  Together with their bunkmates, they were ready for another bottle feeding.  Seeing them anticipate it and accelerate up to the feeding station was so much fun to observe.  We felt fortunate and happy to be part of the proceedings, just about brushing up to the youngsters, several of whom reached out a trunk to touch us, clearly curious about our presence.


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At 5 am the next morning we were up on a cloudy, steamy day.  A quick cup of coffee or tea later, we drove back out to the stockade, this time to be with the elephants as they woke up.  Once more, we observed the different dormitory groups being fed, leaving  the stockade and then enjoying some bales of hay.  Once they all had enough to eat and drink from a nearby water point, they started to disperse into the bush for more browsing.  By this stage, our third interaction with the elephants, we were starting to notice their individuality and seeing which ones interacted more with each other.


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One little elephant – Ambo – stood out as he seemed to be the most subdued one, walking around with his big little elephant ears tightly clamped to his body, as if he didn’t really want to stick out too much.  We were told that he was being given some special treatment (more time to eat and pellets for extra nutrition) due to having been bullied by some of the other orphans.  We immediately developed a soft spot for Ambo and we were happy to see him later on being comforted by a couple of the older elephants.   I subsequently learned that Ambo was brought to Ithumba from Sheldrick Nairobi in June 2019, together with Jotto.   Three of their Nairobi nursery bunkmates had arrived in Ithumba just ten days earlier, so they quickly re-united and Ambo and Jotto adjusted to their new surroundings seamlessly.


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I asked Emanuel, the head keeper, about releasing the young elephants back into the wild.  Is there a schedule or time-table?  How do they know when the elephants are ready for the next step?   Mostly, he said, the elephants will demonstrate themselves, when they are ready.  Once they reach that point, they show a reluctance to go back into the stockade at night, they stop taking their milk, and they become more headstrong.  If there are one or two in a group that are ready to be released, they have to wait a while until their peer group members are ready, and they are then released together, as a small herd.


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Wild elephant presence at Ithumba

One experience that we missed which apparently is the best of all, is being at Ithumba in the dry season.  During the dry season when the natural water pans have dried out,  the stockade water trough is a magnet, and seldom without big wild bulls as well as breeding herds who venture in with their babies. The wild elephants interact and mingle with previously released and now wild orphans and their babies, as well as the current orphans themselves.  They are tolerant of and at ease with the keepers and foster parents visiting the unit.    It is not uncommon to find as many as thirty wild elephants intermingling with the  orphans at the stockade water.   A good reason to return to Ithumba at another time!


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‘Sole use’ accommodation facilities in Tsavo

At Ithumba, and elsewhere in Tsavo, there are several mid range, sole use facilities which are ideal for families or other small groups of travelers.  It can be an expensive undertaking for just one or two persons, but very affordable for a family of 4-6 or more.  The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust operates several sole use properties in Tsavo.  There are three camps in Ithumba:  Ithumba Camp, Ithumba Hill and Ithumba Private.  Then there is Umani Springs in the Chyulu Hills, nestled in Kibwezi Forest, the most luxurious homestay of them all, as well as Galdessa, on the Galana River, overlooking the Yatta plateau.  Galdessa is similar to Ithumba Hill Lodge in terms of level of luxury, but it is larger with 10 tents, and it is likely the best choice for visitors who are keen to experience good game-viewing.


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From Galdessa visitors only see the orphans twice daily, not three times.  Due to the distance to be covered, the “morning wake up” is not possible at Galdessa. However from Galdessa it is only about an hour’s drive to Satao Camp, where visitors can spend time with one or two of the big ‘super tuskers’ of Tsavo, on an outing with the Tsavo Trust.


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Notes about Ithumba Hill camp

Ithumba has three camps:  Ithumba Camp (a more rustic option), Ithumba Private and Ithumba Hill, the ‘luxury’ option.  It has only four chalets on a boardwalk,  a pool and lounge area, and pretty much from anywhere in camp there are fantastic views over the surrounding bush.  Our tent had 2 ¾ size beds, a wrap-around patio, 2 lounge chairs, and outdoor sink, toilet and shower.  Once inside the tent there were no worries about pesky bugs…


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Ithumba Hill has an attractive pool with equally good views.  On the day we were there, the nice cool water was the perfect antidote for the heat and the tsetse fly bites.  If we’d had more time, we definitely would have spent some of it relaxing on the deck chairs and perhaps enjoying an al fresco meal at one of the picnic tables.  The main lounge at Ithumba Hill is like a comfortable living room,  with a lower deck – with a table and 6 chairs – serving as the venue for dinner.


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From there we could see a male hornbill fly back and forth to its nest in a nearby baobab, where the female and babies were temporarily holed up.  Meals at Ithumba Hill were splendid; Kathy and I both enjoyed the mixed salads and a superb chicken curry for dinner.  The camps are self-catering so visitors bring their own food which is prepared by a resident chef.  Our clients contemplating a visit to Ithumba wouldn’t have to worry about anything though; our Kenya partners Origins Safaris take care of all of this.  The only prerequisite for a visit to Ithumba is to adopt one or more of the orphan elephants, easily done online at the Sheldrick website.  


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The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and its counterparts elsewhere in Kenya – such as the Reteti Elephant Sanctuary in northern Kenya – have a well-functioning organization and procedures in place to rescue orphaned elephants and other big mammals, all over Kenya.  At the heart of their conservation activities is the Orphans’ Project, which has achieved world-wide acclaim through its hugely successful elephant and rhino rescue and rehabilitation program.  To date, more than 260 orphan elephants have been raised; 17 rhinos have been successfully hand-reared and there have been 38 babies born to wild living orphan elephants.

The Trust is involved with many other projects, including the operation of several mobile veterinary units and a rapid response sky vet team.  It funds and operates several de-snaring teams with the Kenya Wildlife Services, provides water in drought-prone areas by drilling wells, erects fences where necessary and conducts aerial surveillance.  Sheldrick Wildlife Trust also deploys a canine unit as well as anti-poaching teams to protect elephants, rhinos and other wild species.  Focusing mostly on the youth of Kenya, the Trust works to change attitudes towards wildlife through their Community Outreach Programs, the objective being to improve livelihoods and engage communities living alongside wildlife.  


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In our blog post next Friday, we will take a virtual trip up to the summit – the flat part – of Table Mountain.  Not the easy way by cable car though:  on foot, along one of the ravines which hikers use to climb the 1,000 feet or so from around the base of the cable car operation, to the top.  We’ll also discuss some other hiking options on Table Mountain and elsewhere in the Cape Peninsula, specifically for families and persons who may not be up to the rigors of a strenuous ascent.

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@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 1

18th December 2020

Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 1


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Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 1

After a couple of visits to Madagascar  I’d have to say I found it to be a truly strange and wonderful yet mildly maddening country, that is definitely not for everybody.


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A very strange place

Strange? Absolutely. Madagascar is often associated with Africa, having split off the African mainland some 165 million years ago, yet it is very unlike Africa in almost every way. It is not for nothing that Madagascar is often referred to as the Eighth Continent.  Strange trees, strange plants, even stranger animals, and almost everything you see found only in Madagascar.  So different on so many levels.


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Not even once did I feel like I was in Africa, while in Madagascar. To the contrary, I might as well have been in an Asian country, judging by the features of the people and the many rice paddies which are tucked away into the valleys and hillsides. Or perhaps it could have been some hidden corner of France, where time had stood still, the roads had not been worked on for 20 years, and many people still drive aging Peugeots and Renaults.   Now fast being replaced by Chinese cars.  A sign of the times.  Another not so great relic of Madagascar’s French colonial history?  The dense layers of bureaucracy which most visitors thankfully only encounter upon entering and leaving.


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Wonderful Madagascar

Wonderful? Undoubtedly. I am not a great monkey fan, and I generally consider the few African monkey species which I have seen, especially the cheeky Vervet monkeys, to be a bit obnoxious. By contrast, Madagascar’s lemurs are stunning. It took me all of 15 seconds to fall in love with the first species of lemur I had a good look at, namely the Ring-tailed Lemur, at Berenty.  Subsequently I have seen many other lemur species, some quite rare and difficult to find but even the most common of these animals are exceptional.  They are mostly arboreal, so be sure to take a pair of quality binoculars with good light-gathering properties as you will often be observing animals in the gloom of a forest interior.  The pay-off?  Great views of unique, fascinating creatures.


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The same was true of the birds. On my last two visits to Botswana I had to work really hard to come up with even one new ‘life’ bird. So what an absolute pleasure it was to be in a country where I was seeing not just new birds all the time, but several entirely new families of birds, most of which are found only in Madagascar! 

It is not fair to have them at the bottom of my ‘wonderful’ list, but the Malagasy people – especially the children – were equally fascinating. We just simply did not have enough time to enjoy the many cultural offerings which Madagascar no doubt has in abundance.


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Maddening Madagascar

Mildly maddening? Most assuredly. On the day of our departure from Ivato Airport in Tana, by way of example, we had checked our luggage and received our boarding passes for the flight back to Johannesburg. Some 20 minutes after the flight was supposed to have departed, a blunt announcement was made in French and Malagasy that the flight would be delayed, because – ”L’aéroport est fermé”. The airport is closed. Down came the shutters on the coffee kiosk, a split second before the blinds dropped in front of the duty free shop. In the time it took to utter a four-letter word, every single airport employee had decamped. We were stuck in a dingy departure lounge with nowhere to go, for the next 90 minutes.  Missed our connection in Johannesburg?  Of course.


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Madagascar can be a frustrating place to visit because of the lack of infrastructure and a pervasive sense of laissez faire.  On almost every level, it is the antithesis of our rushed, over-scheduled and convenience-seeking existence.   Things happen when they happen which is not always according to schedule.  In cities and towns the roads are often congested, the traffic sometimes chaotic.  In some areas the accommodation options leave much to be desired and things we take for granted like hot water and decent lighting are not reliable.  The language barrier doesn’t make it any easier – it definitely helps to have some French. Be patient, smile and re-orient yourself to not be as hyper-critical as you would be in a more developed, more sophisticated environment.  You will be amply rewarded.


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Hope for the future

There are encouraging signs, though.  For one thing, there is – nowadays – more understanding of the plight of the country’s endemic animals and over the last 20 years, the number of national parks and the size of areas under conservation have grown significantly.  So there is definitely hope for the future! Put Madagascar on your list of places to visit soon and you can be a part of a brighter future for this much-maligned and very much side-lined country.  Madagascar needs responsible eco-tourism probably more than any other country in the world.


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My memories of my very first trip to the Red Island remain strong and vibrant.  Seeing my first lemur – a Ringtail at Berenty.  First hearing the haunting call of an Indri at Andasibe.  My first tentative steps into a real spiny forest.  It might as well have happened last week.  Madagascar is so different, so unique and so impactful a place to visit, that the memories are etched very vividly.

Madagascar is also one of those places which improve with the passage of time.  As the months and years slip by, one’s recollections of a trip there change for the better.  Gone are the memories of the bad roads, long distances, stuff that doesn’t work. And in sharper relief are the impressions of lemurs, endemic birds, reptiles, truly magical forests and of course the amazing people.


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Antananarivo

Few things can prepare one adequately for the dusty, spare look of poverty which typifies much of Tana. Parts of the road from the airport into town reminded me of Oljoro Road in Arusha, the only other place I had been to that exhibited the same kind of mind-boggling amalgam of pedestrians, young and old, dodging all forms of transportation ranging from pushcarts to bicycles to Range Rovers to the ubiquitous taxis and mini-buses, with dogs, zebu cattle and donkeys thrown into the mix just to make it exciting. If anything, the array of streetside shops and stands in Tana was even more amazing than in Arusha.


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There were primitive butcheries, with chunks of raw meat spread out on a counter or strung up on hooks, dozens of colorful fruit and vegetable stalls, almost as many rice, grain and dried bean merchants, auto parts, bikes and pieces of bikes, and junk stands defying any description. On every block, someone was cooking kabobs on a charcoal-fired brazier, or deep-frying some local version of donuts, which I was tempted to try once or twice. Maybe next time.


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The road to Andasibe-Mantadia (Perinet)

It takes about 2.5 to 3 hours from Tana east to Perinet, on a good but rather narrow, winding road, designed and built by the Chinese.  The drive from Tana to Andasibe seemed shorter and less daunting the second time around. Our Boogie Pilgrim driver was competent and careful and I never once felt uncomfortable about speeding or inattentiveness or anything else. Always cautious and defensive.

We made a couple of stops en route, the most interesting one being at an old, rather dilapidated but still fully functional iron bridge over the Mangoro River. It was everything you’d expect from a bridge in Madagascar. Rusting away quietly, narrow with no space for pedestrians, and a narrow-gauge railroad track right next to the auto roadway. We were fortunate to see an old and rather antiquated train set roll by, while we were scouting around for some special birds.


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Andasibe-Mantadia

The Andasibe-Mantadia forest complex is likely Madagascar’s most popular forest destination, for several reasons.  It is relatively easily reached from Tana on a good road; there are several accommodation options to fit every budget, good restaurants and some wonderful forests with well-maintained trails to explore.   But mostly it is about the lemurs.  The most impressive of all of them – the Indri Indri – can be seen here quite easily.  They are noisy – the call of the Indri is near unforgettable – and conspicuous due to their size and black and white coloration.  But never easy to photograph due to the pesky back-lit conditions.  Better to put the camera away, pick up the binoculars and observe the stunning athleticism of these powerful animals as they jump gracefully from one branch to the next or from one tree to another.


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Our first sighting of them consisted of a family of very relaxed Indris, foraging and moving around in the lower reaches of the trees. Peering at them through our binoculars, we could see why they are described as looking like cuddly teddy bears.  Our next find was a grey bamboo lemur, which looked more like a weasel or a squirrel, clambering about quite high up in the trees. Later on, we heard the haunting contact call of the Indris and we had another excellent sighting of a female Indri with its 2-month old baby. Isolating them in the telescope, we watched the baby, which was all black with large green eyes, move around on its mother’s belly.


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There is of course a lot more to Andasibe-Mantadia than the Indri.   There are several other lemur species including the stunning Sifaka.  Also tenrecs (a type of hedgehog), chameleons including Parsons, the biggest of its kind in Madagascar, superb birds, beautiful scenery, orchids and water-lilies, fascinating insects, reptiles.  I could go on.  Definitely plan on spending three or four nights here to do the area even a modicum of justice.  The walks – particularly in nearby Mantadia Forest – are time-consuming and if you are looking for some of the rare bird species rushing around is not going to do it.  Also it takes an hour or so to get from Andasibe to the trailhead at Mantadia; it is about 10km along a pretty dreadful road.


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For keen bird-watchers there are many highly sought-after birds to be found and seen at Andasibe-Mantadia including the blue coua, Madagascar wood rail, various vangas, the velvet asity, sunbirds, the quite superb pitta-like ground roller, short-legged ground roller and many others.  We did not miss many of the local specials due to the skills of our Boogie Pilgrim birding guide, with the assistance of an excellent local guide.  We were treated to great views of Hookbilled Vanga in the ‘scope, found the pretty Blue Vanga, several types of sunbirds,  Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Malachite Kingfisher, Ward’s Flycatcher, Madagascar Little Grebe and several other waterbirds. The bird of the forest at Andasibe was definitely the unique Nuthatch Vanga, climbing up a tree-trunk in nuthatch-like fashion. Unlike true nuthatches, these birds do not climb downwards.


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Our accommodation for the three nights there, the hotel Feon’ny Ala is quite basic but what it lacks in charm it makes up for in location.  Right where you want to be, close to the Andasibe park entrance.  The restaurant was good and popular and the local beer like the Three Horse brand tasty and inexpensive.  A couple of the menu items we enjoyed were an excellent chicken curry and chicken with fresh ginger, both served with mounds of rice as is customary in Madagascar. Fresh crepes with local preserves and some very good coffee with sweetened condensed milk completed a memorable dinner. 


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In summary Andasibe-Mantadia simply cannot be omitted from a Madagascar trip.  The primary forest of Mantadia is gorgeous to behold and the thought that so little of this habitat remains in Madagascar is depressing.  One morning, in search of a couple of endemic water birds, we came upon a small, pristine lake tucked into a quiet glade, right at the edge of the forest.  Not a major landmark or well-known sight, yet so striking that we all stopped talking.  We simply stood there and looked at the beautiful reflection of the trees and sky in the crystal clear water, with some ducks dabbling in the background, realizing that we were sharing a special moment in an extraordinary place.


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Ranomafana National Park

What Ranomafana does not have in the way of good quality accommodation options, it makes up for by the spade-full in atmosphere, setting and bio-diversity.  The primary protected forest area is gorgeous, green and lush but also quite challenging with major changes in elevation.  So be prepared for some long hikes along fairly steep uphills and downhills, fortunately with well-maintained stone steps pretty much everywhere.  If you go stomping around in the forest interior you may pick up a few leeches.  They are icky but harmless and easily removed.   None of our party of 4 visitors – who stayed mainly on the trails – got any on us.


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Our private guide Bruno Raveloson and two expert forest guides worked quite hard and over the course of two days at Ranomafana we saw some fantastic birds, several new (for the trip) lemur species and a few fascinating insects and reptiles such as a Giraffe-necked weevil, more chameleons including exceedingly tiny ones and a couple of cryptic-colored geckos.


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If you are intent on exploring all aspects of its natural history Ranomafana is a most rewarding place.  For people simply rushing from one lemur sighting to another it may be disappointing as the lemurs are spread out and often high in the trees.  In the high season there are many other visitors around, particularly on the shorter trails.  So get a good guide, take your time and walk well beyond the 2 or 3-hour circuit to make the most of it.


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We did just that and were amply rewarded with some of the best lemurs of the trip.  Ranomafana is well-known for its bamboo lemurs including the Great Bamboo lemur and the recently discovered Golden Bamboo lemur.  Red-bellied lemurs and Milne-Edwards Sifaka can also be seen.


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In next Friday’s blog post we continue our look at the weird and wonderful ‘Red Island’, the ‘Eighth Continent’, Madagascar.  Our focus will shift to Berenty and its Ring-tailed lemurs,  the bizarre spiny forest of Ifaty and Anakao, a relaxing beach resort, perfect for your last few days in this most amazing of countries.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 2

18th December 2020

Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 2


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Strange, wonderful Madagascar – Part 2

Berenty Private Reserve

At Berenty, in the south of Madagascar, the moment you step outside your room, you come face to face with the many reasons to visit Madagascar, and to shrug off its many imperfections. Early on our first morning at Berenty, we made our way to the open-sided breakfast area, a little ways down a sandy track.  The breakfast wasn’t great but it did  not matter. The morning lemur show more than compensated for the food. I had hardly taken my seat, when I spotted a small group of Ring-tailed Lemurs ambling over and gracefully leaping onto some empty chairs, so close that I couldn’t get their distinctive tails into a photograph.


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For a minute or so several lemurs looked straight at me, their intent little faces and piercing red eyes practically imploring me to share my rations. In earlier years, lemurs at Berenty had been fed, and I guess some of them still fondly recall their free-loading days. They were never pushy though. Unlike monkeys or baboons, which can act like real rogues when they become habituated, the lemurs politely kept their distance.


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I had many other opportunities to observe various species of lemurs over the next few days. Following a group of Ring-tailed Lemurs at Berenty early one evening, I sometimes almost felt as if I were part of the troop.  They completely ignored my presence and carried on feeding, picking and chewing away at choice bits of flowers on the edge of the forest, sometimes just a couple of feet from me.  Seeingly unperturbed, they slowly made their way on the ground from one spot to the next, the little ones giving me a wary look every now and then.


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Nice as the Ringtails were, my favorites at Berenty were definitely the Verreaux’s Sifaka, arguably the most handsome of all the lemurs. I will never forget their apparently effortless, yet prodigiously acrobatic leaps from branch to branch. As powerful and athletic as they appeared when making these leaps, they were graceful and almost dainty when crossing an open space in weird sideways ballet-like dance steps.


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Berenty is one of Madagascar’s best known reserves, because its large populations of sub-desert lemurs (Ring-tailed, Verreaux’ sifaka and brown lemur) have been the focus of many television documentaries and books. The brown lemurs are very common at Berenty, and their unmistakable pig-like grunting contact calls can be heard just about everywhere. I was very impressed with the gallery forest and the beautiful trees of Berenty, as well as with the great views over the Mandrare River.


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The wide roads and well-maintained trails made getting around easy and effortless. Late one morning our guide  took us to the noisy colony of ‘flying foxes’, some 400 to 500 large fruit bats roosting in a tall Tamarind tree. Seemingly constantly embroiled in territorial disputes, they are never quiet during the day, one or two taking to the air every few minutes, showing their huge 4-foot wingspan.


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The birding at Berenty was slow, but almost everything was new to me. Although the island does not have anything like the rich birdlife of most African countries, the diversity is stunning. Had Charles Darwin gone to Madagascar instead of the Galapagos, the peculiar bill shapes of the 22 species of vangas might have underpinned his theory of evolution, rather than those now famous finches.


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Be sure to take a good field guide to the birds of Madagascar with you. I consulted Sinclair and Langrand’s excellent ‘Chamberlain’s Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands: Madagascar, Mauritius, Reunion, Rodrigues, Seychelles and the Comores’, which contains descriptions and superb illustrations of more than 300 regularly encountered birds of Madagascar, the Seychelles, the Comoros, Mauritius, Reunion and Rodrigues.


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Berenty is also a good place to observe the southern region’s peculiar flora, notably the Euphorbia- Didieraceae bush. This includes baobabs and various bloated Pachypodium species and the baobab-like Moringas. Walking in the so-called spiny forest, we marveled at the almost surrealistic shapes of the various cactus-like plants. We might as well have been in the Sonoran desert region of Arizona, except there were no Cactus Wrens to be seen anywhere… There were Grey Mouse Lemurs though, and we enjoyed several sightings of the diminutive White-fronted Sportive Lemur. There were not many birds in the spiny forest, but we did spot a couple of African hoopoes, and a white-headed Vanga.


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The main dining room and lounge complex at Berenty was very pleasant and the meals which we enjoyed there (lunch & dinner) were more than adequate. A typical dinner consisted of very tasty sauteed shrimp for a starter, a hearty beef stew with potatoes, carrots and green peppers served over rice, and fresh papaya for dessert. The coffee was excellent. On another occasion we had sliced roast pork with gravy, accompanied by peas and cabbage. Dessert was a delicious fruit salad of papaya, banana, pineapple and granadilla (‘passion fruit’) juice. Here, as everywhere else we went in Madagascar, the nice crusty French bread was excellent and plentiful.


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Ifaty

On my most recent trip to Madagascar, I included the Ifaty area specifically to experience the small Reniala Reserve.  This is what Madagascar is all about. This simply bizarre spiny forest is definitely unlike anything you have seen before.  Stunted baobabs, sinister looking didiereas and various other weird, knobby, spiny plants and trees simply saturate the flat sandy terrain. You literally have to duck and dive your way around some positively dangerous-looking specimens.  In all there are about 2,000 plant species here, many of them endemic.


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Reniala Reserve is a paradise for bird-watchers and ably assisted by the local guides who ran ahead to find the local specials, we were soon marveling over some rarely seen endemic species, such as the long-tailed ground roller, the sub-desert mesite, the red-capped coua and the blue vanga. There are about 65  bird species in total within  the reserve. I have been interested in birds for more than 30 years and have birded widely in Africa and the USA.  My first glimpse of the long-tailed ground roller will remain as one of my most memorable sightings ever.  In this strangest of settings this ethereal ground-dwelling bird with a diagnostic sky blue patch on its wing looks like a dainty version of North America’s desert-dwelling Roadrunner.  Superb, fantastic.  It is easy to run out of superlatives when talking about any of Madagascar’s four ground-rollers but this one takes the cake.


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A boat ride to Anakao

Our last few days in Madagascar were spent at Prince Anakao Resort, which in many ways typified and encapsulated the entire Madagascar experience. Different, striking, even exhilarating in measure but often with minor blemishes and unexpected ‘left field’ moments. Unquestionably memorable.

Anakao is a fishing village stretching along a pretty white sand beach about 40 kilometers south of Tulear.  The relative isolation of the village and the fact that it is sparsely visited has helped to preserve the traditional lifestyle of its estimated 3,000 Vezo inhabitants.


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Getting there was worth the price of admission.  After enjoying some coffee and the ubiquitous  French breakfast cake at a dock-side restaurant in Tulear, we were told to walk down to the edge of the bay.  This is where an ‘only in Madagascar’ scenario unfolded.  Our large and powerful motor boat could be seen anchored in the shallow waters of the bay, about 300 meters or so from the wooden jetty.  How to get from the edge of the water into the boat?  By oxcart of course.   Indeed.


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Much to our astonishment first one and then another oxcart approached the jetty, pulled along by two very wet but seemingly relaxed oxen. We were unceremoniously bundled into the back of the carts, looking at each other in disbelief as we tightly gripped the edges.  A crack of the whip and we were off, the oxen rippling their way through the calm waves of Tulear harbor.  Our nervous laughter blended in  with the sounds of the oxen splashing their way through the surf amid exhortations from the wranglers who somehow managed to keep them going in the right direction.

The almost hour-long speed boat ride to Anakao was almost anti-climactic.   The disembarkation there involved removing one’s shoes, rolling up trousers and splashing through the shallow water onto the beach.  All in a day’s fun.


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Anakao

Prince Anakao Resort is one of a few hotels strung out along the coastline of Anakao beyond both ends of the village. Consisting mostly of simple beach huts, the Anakao hotels provide a low-key beach experience for visiting tourists. In the early morning hours, many pirogues can be seen sailing into the open ocean for fishing trips, returning with their catch during the afternoon in ones and two or sometimes small clusters.


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Living up to its Malagasy heritage, the Prince Anakao excelled beautifully in some ways and fell totally flat in others.  The cooking was nothing short of sublime.  The owner-chef turned out some ridiculously fantastic seafood dishes, no doubt making use of fresh locally caught fare.  The desserts were no slouch either.  Alas, the property never could get hot water going in my room over the space of two days.  Even moving to a different room didn’t fix the problem.  We also had major issues with WIFI availability which was sporadic at best with electricity issues seemingly pervasive.  Did it matter in the long run?  Not at all.  This is Madagascar…


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Over the course of two wonderful days at Anakoa we enjoyed the food and wine, walked or ran along the beach and some of us went scuba diving.  Apparently quite successfully so.  All of us also piled into a boat one morning for a visit to nearby Nosy Ve Island, specifically to see the breeding colony of red-tailed tropic birds.  These elegant tern-like birds could be seen perched and flying at close range; we stood on one high spot for a good 15 minutes or so as one after another came flying by, sometimes seeming to hover before letting the wind sweep them away, the conspicuous red tail-feather putting them squarely in the unmistakable category.  We looked for but did not find the enigmatic Crab Plover which apparently likes the small deserted sandy islands around Nosy Ve.


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On our last afternoon in Anakoa I took the camera and spent an enjoyable couple of hours or so photographing the children of Anakoa, one of its best attractions.  Slender and healthy looking with beautiful skin tones, they were happy to pose for the camera, scampering for a prime spot and keen to stand in front of a fishing boat or with the village in the background.  Even a few passing family groups stopped momentarily for their portraits to be taken.  Despite their sometimes threadbare clothing and lack of material things, they looked content and happy and the closeness of familial bonds was easy to discern.


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Three things you should know before you go

Poverty. Traffic. Tipping. If you are going to be traveling to Madagascar, better get ready to deal with them.

Poverty is impossible to ignore or avoid. It is visible in the eyes of the street children of Tana, in the shacks you see along the Great South Road, in the threadbare clothing of the kids at Anakao.  Madagascar is likely the world’s poorest country if you exclude the ones involved in on-going conflict.  What to do about it?  Go and visit the place.  Tourism is one of the few bright prospects in Madagascar’s otherwise bleak economic future.  Your presence there creates jobs, feeds and educates children and helps safeguard the country’s dwindling natural areas and wildlife.  Yes, the thought of other people suffering is unpleasant but don’t let it dissuade you from visiting the country.  Many of the kids are not dressed like their counterparts elsewhere in the world but they do not lack for joie de vivre and they will benefit a lot more by having tourists visit their country than not.


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Traffic can be maddening and persistent, and always unpredictable.  Just like in Nairobi or Dar-Es-Salaam you might run into a traffic jam at any time of the day or night.  There are few rules of the road & traffic lights and stop signs are scarce and routinely ignored.  I would certainly never attempt to self-drive in Madagascar under any circumstances.  On the positive side heavy traffic inhibits speeding so while road trips can be frustrating, the pace is fairly sedate.  As anywhere, we recommend spending more time in fewer areas so you won’t find yourself on the road every day.


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Tipping?  Confusing and anxiety-inducing.  Not because the amounts required for tips are excessive.  They are anything but.  The issue with tipping is knowing who to tip and having the correct small-denomination bills to use as tips.  So be sure to get some smaller bills when you exchange money at the airport on arrival.  Who to tip?  Your tour guide of course: about US$10 per traveler per day; about US$5 per traveler per day for the driver.  Also tip at restaurants (10% of the bill is fine, but leave a bit more on a small check), porters (the equivalent of a dollar is ok), and housekeepers. It is not necessary to tip taxi drivers.


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Initially, the big discrepancy in the value of the local currency versus the US Dollar or Euro leads to under-tipping.  It is not considered OK to leave a 10%  tip for a bar bill or any other minor expense.  Better to tip the equivalent in Ariary what you ordinarily would tip in US Dollars.  So for a couple of beers leave A3,000 (about US$1) as a tip, not 10% or even 20% of the bill which would be the equivalent of about 10 or 20 cents.


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Food and beverages are cheap in Madagascar – we rarely paid more than US$7.00 for a dinner entree; a local beer is less than a dollar, about the same price as a liter of water.

It is mandatory to make use of the services of local guides in the national parks.  Their services can be pre-booked (which will be the case on a trip organized by us) or they can be hired on the spot.  The fees vary depending on the circuits chosen in each park.  If the guide stays with you the entire day – which we would recommend – you can work on his/her fee being about US$50.00 per day.  This amount is split by the number of participants in your group.


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Three things you should know before you go

There are no mega-fauna such as in Africa so naturalistic pursuits in Madagascar are safely – and best – done on foot. Take your best walking shoes – or better yet a decent pair of boots – a walking stick and get ready for the most fascinating trip you may ever take. No chance of being charged by a buffalo so you can totally relax on foot and take it all in. I would rate many of the trails inside the national parks such as Mantadia and Ranomafana as moderately strenuous. You don’t have to be super-fit to enjoy Madagascar. Even so, it would not be a good destination choice for someone with mobility issues or a person who is not capable of walking up and down steps or willing to undertake an occasional scramble along an uneven trail.


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Best Time to Visit Madagascar

When to go? Any time from about April through December would be good; the two best months are likely September and October; the latter particularly for birders as many birds are getting into breeding plumage then. Birds are more likely to perform territorial and courtship displays and are more vocal then. Hence easier to identify than in the winter months. In the late fall & summer months from about October onward you will be dealing with some heat and humidity in lower-lying areas, and mosquitoes where there is water around. From January through the end of March is cyclone (aka hurricane) season so don’t plan a trip then.


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Going back

Will I be going back to Madagascar? Without a doubt. I simply have to explore more of this utterly fascinating island and its wonderful people and wildlife. The next time, I will spend a few days more so that I can start to relax and enjoy a country that just cannot be rushed. What would I say to people thinking about visiting Madagascar? Do it soon, before the charcoalers burn down the entire place and before the prices reach the level of African safari destinations. But before you pack your bags, work your way through a beginner’s course of French on Rosetta Stone or Babbel.  Having a bit of French – beyond just oui and merci – will make your time in Madagascar immeasurably more enjoyable. Had I not been able to understand the language, I might have missed some real jewels, such as the comment by the Malagasy taxi driver who drove us from the airport to Tana on our arrival. Summing up the Madagascar experience very succinctly, he said, ‘My country is rich, but the people are poor’.

Our blog post next week will be some first impressions from the Fish Eagle Safaris team currently visiting Kenya and South Africa.  What is it like to travel internationally in the midst of the pandemic?  Is it safe to fly – and how are the African destination countries and properties keeping visitors safe?  Your questions will be answered.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3

4th December 2020

Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3


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Beautiful Birds of Africa: Part 3

Traveling through Africa, no matter where you find yourself, you will soon learn that birds are to be found in even the most inhospitable of habitats, such as the Namib Desert.  Birds like the cryptically colored, ground-dwelling Dune Lark and Gray’s Lark, which somehow manage to exist in the gravel plains of the Namib, where surface temperatures may exceed 45C (113F) during the heat of the day. Just like humans, birds are supremely adaptable and have evolved, over millennia, to be able to thrive under what may appear to be impossible conditions.


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What is even more remarkable to me is how one bird can adapt to look and act just like another completely unrelated bird, found in a different part of the world, as a result of an evolutionary pattern called convergence.  When I first saw a Western Meadowlark here in Texas, for example, I looked at my birding companion and said, ‘Nice, we’ve got those in South Africa too.  A Yellowthroated Longclaw, right?”  His face took on a perplexed look. “A what?  Longclaw?  No man, that is an Eastern Meadowlark.”  This happens when two separate species evolve similarly, because they find themselves in similar environments.


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Despite occurring in different parts of the world, with some 8,000 miles separating them, meadowlarks and longclaws ended up being practically identical, superficially.   The exact same yellow and black plumage pattern, general shape and size and even behavior, with a characteric low flight and trilling wings.  The birds ended up being peas in a pod, despite not having any common ancestors for millions of years, because their plumage and behavior best enable them to blend in, survive and thrive in a grassland environment.

The opposite evolutionary pattern – divergence – when one species separates into two and then develops individually, is perhaps better known and can be easily seen in nature as well.  Such as in Madagascar.


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If you’ve ever wondered what it must have felt like to be Darwin, walking around the Galapagos completing the Natural Selection puzzle, Madagascar will appeal to you.  Spend a few days there and you cannot fail but see Darwin’s theory of evolution come alive in front of your very eyes.  Look at a white-headed vanga and then – maybe just minutes later – observe a sickle-billed vanga fly by.  Practically the identical bird except for a marked difference in bill adaptation.  The one with a stout conical bill, the other one similar in general appearance and shape but with a massive decurved bill.  Clearly adapted to probe crevices and holes for spiders and crickets and other insects. Evolution in its purest form.  It is estimated that the sickle-billed vanga split from the white-headed vanga somewhat more than a million years ago.


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If you do end up heading to Madagascar someday – and you’re interested in birds – do a little bit of homework.  The island doesn’t have an inordinately high number of species, but every second species you see, will be endemic to the country.  There are 22 vanga species, for starters.  Each one markedly different from another.   In fact, Madagascar’s vangas easily beat Darwin’s Galapagos finches for diversity.  The same is true of the striking coua family; there are nine of these mostly terrestrial birds of the cuckoo family in Madagascar.  Every single one found only there.


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So when you do see the amazing variety and diversity of birds all over Africa – and perhaps Madagascar –  you are looking at the culmination of millions of years of subtle, imperceptible change and adaptation.  From the tiniest skulking Firefinch to the most fierce-looking Martial Eagle, every one of them looks and acts the way it does, as a result of the long evolutionary path they have been on since the last major extinction event, some 66 million years ago.  Most dinosaurs went extinct. Mostly birds remained.  Since then, birds have evolved in many ways, enabling them to survive in a multitude of habitats.


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According to an article in Current Biology (May 2019),  birds – dominated by seed-eaters – fared extremely well in resettling the vacated ecological niches, in the wake of the extinction event.  In fact, they radiated to create a level of diversity unrivalled among terrestrial vertebrates. Scientists disagree on the exact reasons why birds have done so well, but clearly their relatively  small size, the fact they can eat many different foods and their ability to fly, all played a part.


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Having emerged from the last mass extinction much better than most species, birds are now facing several new man-made threats to their survival.  Primary among these are loss of habitat and a precipitous decrease in the abundance of insects, worldwide.  Climate change and the resultant global warming are also negatively impacting bird populations.   Nobody knows which of them will be the survivors this time.

For now at least, there are more than 11,000 bird species in the world, of which about 2,300 species occur in Africa. More than 1,400 birds are endemic to Africa – found only there.  Be sure to be on the lookout for them and if you are contemplating a first trip to Africa, make sure that you end up with a guide who is knowledgeable about birds.  It literally opens up a whole new world to visitors of Africa’s wild places.


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Bee-eaters and Rollers

Colorful and lively, Bee-eaters and rollers are among the most spectacular birds to be seen anywhere in Africa.   Some of them like the Little Bee-eater, the Lilacbreasted Roller and the Carmine Bee-eater are celebrities of the world of birds, the object of attention whenever they are around, never far from glinting lenses and clattering shutters.


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The Lilacbreasted Roller easily takes the cake for being the most dazzling of the true bushveld birds.  They are attention hogs like few other birds, almost always perched on a twig or branch close to the road or trail, often not more than about 8 to 10 feet or so above the ground.  Almost every visitor to sub-Saharan Africa will be able to get a half-decent photograph of a Lilac-breasted Roller.  Perched.  In flight?  Now that’s the real challenge!  In hundreds of attempts over the years, I have maybe a half dozen or so good LBR shots, showing them to their best advantage.


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The trick is anticipating the moment at which they decide to take flight.  Or better yet, the split second before that moment.  Even when you guess correctly and have the camera clattering away the moment the bird spreads its wings to take off, all manner of things still go wrong.  The #1 bad outcome?  The roller dives down and away.  Try again.  Here’s a hint:  set your camera on the Manual setting at f-8 with a shutter speed of 1,000th of a second or faster (when the light is good), with the ISO on automatic.  Autofocus enabled.


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Hoopoes, barbets and woodpeckers

The distinctive African Hoopoe is quite common but not always easily observed, due to its habit of flitting from one spot to the next in a seemingly haphazard, unpredictable manner, looking and acting just like a giant butterfly in the process.  Observe it closely the next time you see one.  When undisturbed, its characteristic crest is closed up, but when it is excited or agitated, the crest creates a little mini-fan on top of the Hoopoe’s head.  These beautiful birds are common garden birds over much of Africa and are highly revered, to the point of being legally protected in many areas.

Africa is not particularly well endowed with woodpecker species, but in most woodland habitats you’re likely to come across a couple of species.  Often heard before being seen, their characteristic tapping noise is a dead giveaway, as is their loud, piercing calls.  Many African woodpeckers are basically golden brown above and paler below, with a bewildering variety of facial stripes, eyebrow lines and red, spotted or black caps, and breast patterns.  It usually takes more than just one good view in a pair of binoculars, to positively identify them.  The smallest woodpecker in Africa is the cardinal woodpecker, which is common everywhere except really arid areas.

In South Africa, the largest and most unusual woodpecker is the ground woodpecker. This mostly olive-grey bird with a pinkish belly and rump, is endemic to South Africa and is – the clue is in the name – not associated with trees.  If you find yourself in rolling treeless terrain in the Southwestern Cape or higher lying grassland areas to the north and east, you may just stumble upon one of these extraordinary birds.


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Barbets are a large family of birds with more than 40 species to be found in sub-Saharan Africa.  They are indeed hard to miss, and visitors often observe different species of barbets feeding on fruit of one kind or another, such as wild figs.  Barbets are confiding and are often found around safari camps or lodge grounds, delighting visitors with their sometimes brilliant plumage.  One of the most prominent camp followers is the Crested Barbet, a chunky bird with a prominent crest and almost comically colorful plumage.  During the heat of the summer they can often be heard emitting a long, insectlike trilling sound which seems to go on and on and on.


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Another common African barbet which favors the same habitat as the Crested Barbet, is the equally attractive and similarly entertaining Blackcollared Barbet.  The Blackcollared Barbet is a conspicuous bird with a prominent red head and contrasting black collar.  Their call sets them apart from any other birds in the same habitat, being a remarkable duet between two birds, with just milliseconds separating the sound coming from first one and then the other bird.  Even looking at them sitting on a branch and calling like this, it is hard to imagine that the sound is a combination of two birds calling in turn.  


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Drongos and orioles

The Forktailed drongo is  a ubiquitous bird in the African savannah, being present in all but the driest desert areas. It is easily seen and identified by its extravagantly forked tail, but be careful not to confuse it with a Black flycatcher, if you’re just starting out on the bird-watching journey. The forktailed drongo is a querulous, argumentative bird, seemingly always engaged in territorial or mating disputes. Forktailed drongos are known to mimic the alarm calls of other birds such as babblers and can fool babblers into seeking cover and abandoning food, upon hearing the false alarm calls.  The drongos then swoop in and appropriate the food.  Along with just a handful of other birds, drongos are out and about right throughout the day, even on the hottest of hot days in midsummer.

The African orioles are nothing like their American ‘cousins, the daintier, robin-like new world orioles.   If the Baltimore oriole were a runner, the  African Blackheaded oriole is an Olympic sprinter by comparison.  Just like the Blackheaded Oriole, the African Golden Oriole is a powerful flyer, its distinctive liquid call heard over long distances, as it dashes through a stand of tall  trees, often alighting close to the top.  In the Southern African summer months the resident Blackheaded Orioles are joined by migrating European Golden Orioles, equally splendid birds with an almost luminous yellow plumage and red eyes and beak.

Crows and ravens

The highly evolved and intelligent crows and ravens are encountered all over Africa.  Like their counterparts elsewhere in the world, they are commensurate with man, thus crow species like the Pied Crow and the Black Crow are often seen around cities and towns, scavenging whatever they can lay their bills on.  Pied Crows as well as the impressive White-necked Raven can also be seen in areas with mountains and cliffs along the eastern part of Southern African and into East Africa.  Several African port cities like Durban in South Africa and Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania are encountering problems with an invasion of House Crows, an alien species.


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Babblers, Robins, Flycatchers and Wagtails

African Babblers like the Arrowmarked Babbler are among the most entertaining of African birds, and it is possible to kill an hour or so just following a group of them around the camp grounds, as they slowly make their way from one safe spot to another.  All the while fussing over each other and making a great variety of calls and sounds, often with one bird starting off and then a whole chorus chiming in.  They can be quite raucous – and will hardly ever go unnoticed.  Babblers have an unusual social system, with a dominant pair of birds assisted through the breeding cycle by helpers.  Tightly knit groups of five to ten live together in large, defended territories.


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The many African species of robins and robin-chats are among the continent’s most accomplished songbirds, with names like Chorister Robin-chat being indicative of the bird’s vocal artistry.  The African morning chorus almost invariably contain the strong, melodious calls of one or more species in the robin family, such as the Chorister, Cape, Heuglin’s or Natal Robin-chat, or their East African representatives like the White-browed or Ruppell’s Robin-chat..  The robins are accomplished mime artists, sometimes including bits of songs of as many as 20 other forest species in one single burst.  


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Visitors to Africa might walk or drive by a dozen flycatchers unknowingly, simply because these quiet, retiring birds often perch in one spot,  making sallies from there to catch insects.  Not so the Paradise Flycatcher.  It is very much a presence in the area around its nesting site, with particularly the male of the species attracting considerable attention with its beautiful long orange tail and vivid blue orbital eyerings.  Paradise flycatchers will sometimes construct their nests quite close to human habitation, with the result that the birds are encountered constantly as they fly to and from the nest. 

Wagtails are dainty, delicate birds, constantly pumping their tails when perched.  In sub-Saharan Africa the distinctive African pied wagtail is often seen near water streams.  Its bold black and white coloration and size are dead giveaways as to the identity of the bird.  The smaller and more common Cape wagtail also likes water, but is equally at home in gardens and fields.  They are common garden birds in many African cities and even make themselves at home in inner-city areas, hawking insects on the pavement and picking up whatever scraps they can find.  Wagtails are among the most admired and appreciated of garden birds in Southern Africa, due to their confiding nature and their jaunty attitude.

Shrikes

I’ve always had a soft spot for the various species of shrikes of Southern Africa, mostly because I used to tape record birds in the field, and then play their calls back to them.  Many birds don’t react at all, or barely.  Not so shrikes and their cousins the batises.  They take immediate notice and sometimes even the most shy, least seen species like the Four-colored or Gorgeous Bush Shrike, will pop out of vegetation to investigate the source of the sound.  Clearly assuming that it is an intruder into its territory.  I no longer do this (record or play back bird calls) as it may cause some species unnecessary distress  and may have an impact on breeding success, particularly in areas where there are too many bird watchers walking around with bird tapes.  

The one bush shrike which has so far eluded my lens is the simply spectacular Crimsonbreasted Boubou, a bird of mostly dry thornveld areas.  It is spectacularly colorful with black and white wings and an astonishingly vivid red (crimson) chest, yet it always seems to find a way to stay obscured just within the tree canopy, behind some leaves,  and will fly to the next bush just when you think you have a line on it.

Shrikes are among the most vocal of bird species and on any given day on safari, you could easily hear as many as five or six shrike species without ever seeing them.  These would include the Puffback Shrike, Brubru, Greyheaded Bush Shrike, a Southern or Swamp Boubou and one or more of the Tchagras.


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Glossy starlings

Africa has a wealth of glossy starlings, spectacular birds whose feathers have a distinct metallic sheen, created by cells called melanosomes.  Glossy starlings are unique in having as many as four different kinds of melanosomes creating a literally dazzling range of iridescent colors in these birds.  Research done by the University of Akron showed that African starlings evolve color faster than any other bird, in fact 10 times faster than their ancestors and modern relatives.  Feather coloration is very important in African starlings because it is used to signal quality and dominance when competing for mates.


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When you first see a Cape Glossy Starling or Greater Blue-eared or Superb Starling – in good sunlight – the effect is quite mesmerizing.  The entire bird is lit up in what seems to be a thousand points of light, simply radiant with refracted light.  It is almost a pity that several of these glossy starling species are so common that they quickly lose their appeal and are essentially ignored by the locals, despite their visual appeal.


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Oxpeckers

There are two species of Oxpeckers in the world, both found in Africa.  The Yellowbilled (mostly in Southern Africa) and the Redbilled Oxpecker, mostly present in East Africa.  These birds feed mainly on ectoparasites like ticks, on a range of mammals such as Cape Buffalo, impala antelope, zebras, giraffes and hippos.  The Oxpeckers’ relationship with its mammal hosts was formerly thought to be an example of mutualism, but is now considered to be parasitic as the mammals do not really benefit in any way, and can be harmed by wounds being opened by the birds.  Hunters and professional walking guides always keep an ear open for the screeching call of the oxpecker.  It alerts the person on foot to be alert to the proximity of what might turn out to be dangerous game, like buffalo.


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Sugarbirds and sunbirds

There are only two sugarbirds in Africa.  Gurney’s – which is found in higher lying parts of north-eastern Africa and the Cape Sugarbird, which is closely associated with South Africa’s unique fynbos habitat.  Visitors are likely to see these spectacular long-tailed birds in a place like Cape Town’s Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens.  In fact, if you spend a bit of time around Kirstenbosch’s deservedly famous protea (also known as sugarbush) gardens, you are practically assured of seeing a Cape Sugarbird.  


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The southwestern Cape floral kingdom – a mix of fynbos, strandveld, forest, wetland, renosterveld and more – is also known for its several species of sunbirds, a particularly striking, small colorful bird.   Known collectively as the Nectariniidae, sunbirds are Africa’s equivalent of the hummingbird family. Both fulfil the same ecological role as nectar eaters. Hummingbirds are only found in the Americas whereas the Sunbirds are found largely in Africa, and also in parts of Asia.  Even though they are tiny and fast flyers, sunbirds are usually quite easily seen due to their brilliant and colorful plumage.  Running through practically any shade of the rainbow, they can be green, red, yellow, blue, purple or a mix of those.  The impact of the color is amplified by their iridescence which can turn these tiny birds into brilliant feathered bullets.


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Our blog post next Friday will be about Madagascar, sometimes known as the ‘Eighth Continent’ due to the wealth of endemic species found there, ranging from lemurs to birds to reptiles, plants and beyond.  

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