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On becoming a citizen of the USA

2nd July 2021

On becoming a citizen of the USA


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On becoming a citizen of the USA

Together with 1,995 other smiling persons of 114 different nationalities I became a US citizen, one Friday in July, now 13 years ago, here in Houston. Close enough to Independence Day to feel the spirit.  Naturalization was a long 14-month process which ended with a very short yet memorable ceremony when we all raised our right hands and swore allegiance to the constitution, the flag and the laws of the United States.


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Thomas Jefferson would have loved to have been there. I bet he would have been surprised at the diversity and thrilled to see so many young, vibrant people among the new citizens. I am very grateful and honored to have become a citizen of the United States of America, the greatest country in the world.


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Just 10 days later (of course I paid extra for an express application), I was the proud bearer of my first, brand new US Passport with 25 crisp, clean visa pages just waiting to be stamped by surly immigration officials all over Africa.  And so they were.  It didn’t take me long to start using the distinctive dark blue book with the seal of the United States embossed in gold, on the outside front cover.


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Paging through the old expired passport now, brings back fond memories of places, events, great safaris and friends, old and new.  Maun- Botswana, Livingstone – Zambia, Johannesburg – South Africa, Entebbe – Uganda,  Nairobi – Kenya, Kilimanjaro – Tanzania, Victoria Falls – Zimbabwe, Brazzaville – Republic of Congo, Kigali – Rwanda.  It reads like the departures board in many an African airport.  Each entry and exit recorded and noted, much like the memories still firmly lodged in my brain.


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Some trips play better in the theater of your mind, than they do as live events.  I had to look carefully to find the stamp for Antananarivo – Madagascar.  It was hidden in a corner of one of the 26 visa pages which were later added to the passport.  Numbered A through X.  There is the mark made in Tana, on page E, almost lost among seven other stamps.  The vivid recollections I have of that Madagascar trip will never be crowded out by something else though.  Just to get the passport stamped in the first place, was an adventure.  A scrum of people descending upon a small booth, helter-skelter with not even a semblance of a line.  The Tana traffic. Being confronted by the all too visible signs and depressing side-effects of poverty.


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Fortunately, when these not so great memories swirl up into my live thoughts, they are quickly dispelled by visions of happy children, fascinating lemurs and so many other – equally pleasant – things.  Such as finding and seeing several of the most amazing birds, the likes of which I may never see again, such as the pitta-like ground roller and the long-tailed ground roller.  As clear and vivid in my recollection as if it happened yesterday. I think it is time for my current passport to take a trip to the ‘Eighth Continent’.

Ellerman House


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Becoming a citizen of a country other than the land of your birth, is not easy.  At least it wasn’t, for me.  I likely would have been content to continue living in the USA as a resident alien.  Until 9/11 happened.  The tragic events of  September 2001 started me on the path to citizenship, evoking – as they did – powerful emotions about having one’s country invaded, as it were, in a brutal and merciless assault.  The USA wasn’t ‘my’ country then – but it sure felt like it.


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By the time I started taking the final steps to become a US citizen, my bonds with South Africa had already become tenuous at best. I’ve always tried to follow current affairs over there but I couldn’t pick the members of the cabinet out of a police line-up if my life depended on it.  Despite my enduring love for the sport of cricket, I had lost touch with the game, other than listening to an occasional BBC test cricket broadcast, usually England versus Australia, for the Ashes.


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Reluctantly sometimes, but inevitably in the long run, I had to surrender to the effects of time and place.  In my new home  people played baseball, not cricket.  So I adjusted.  By the time our two sons were playing baseball at college level, I knew when to anticipate a bunt attempt, and when not to say anything about a no-hit situation. The infield fly rule?  Give me another few years.

Legendary Lodge


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I realized that the ground had shifted under me, on a visit to South Africa a couple of years prior to becoming an American citizen.  All week I had felt different. It was a struggle to drive on the left-hand side of the road, and the issues of the day were distressing. Rampant corruption. Crime seemingly out of control. Unscrupulous, kleptomaniacal politicians. And then it came to a head. I was standing in the Hyperama, a gigantic grocery store in the Menlyn Shopping Center on the east side of Pretoria, when it dawned on me that I had become a stranger in my own country. I was stocking up on some items that were hard to find in the US, such as Redro fishpaste (an acquired taste!), Marmite, Crunchies (still a favorite), Provita crackers, some mealie meal and Rooibos tea.


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As I moved from aisle to aisle, my sense of alienation became more and more palpable. I eavesdropped to snatches of conversation between other shoppers, and couldn’t relate to a word of it. I looked around in vain for a familiar face, something, anything to re-connect me to this place that I once called home. It only got worse. I struggled to understand the cashier’s ‘Seffrican’ English, and the money may as well have been Roubles for as much trouble as I had with the denominations and especially the coins. Earlier, I had no idea how to respond to a ‘car minder’ who gratuitously offered to watch over my car in the parking lot. Clearly, I was no longer from there.


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This was baffling and disconcerting. Was I not the same person who had lived just down the road for several years? Who had had two children born in this city, who had driven myself down these self-same streets a thousand times? Of course I was, but everything else had changed and I was not a part of that process of transformation. My South Africa was gone forever. It is not easy to lose one’s country, but that is what happened to me that September day in Pretoria.


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Looking back on it now, becoming a US citizen helped me to put all that behind me and take the next step towards becoming a full participant in the affairs of my new country.  The years have come and gone.  More than thirty since we moved from South Africa to the USA.  And thirteen great years as a citizen, just like Kathy and the boys.   Together with them, I hope to fill up a few more passports with stamps – and memories on the side.  Happy Independence Day!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist


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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

I first visited Zimbabwe – when I was a senior in college – to attend a tiger fishing tournament at Charara, on Lake Kariba in 1974.  At the time Zimbabwe was still known as Rhodesia – it would gain its independence from Great Britain several years later, in 1980.  The Zimbabwe of the mid-1970’s was a very different place on many levels to what it is today.  Some things never change though and what appealed to me about Zimbabwe at the time, still holds true.  The friendliest people, ‘from the heart’ hospitality and spectacular natural beauty and wildlife, in the most African of settings imaginable.


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We first started sending our guests to Zimbabwe in the early 1990’s and I don’t think anybody has returned from there who has not had their expectations met or exceeded.  Now, 30 years later, we still rate Zimbabwe highly as an excellent ‘value for money’ destination.  I always say that it offers pretty much what Botswana does, at half the price, in the high season.  It is also an attractive proposition for the shoulder season (April & May and November).  Even so, November can be quite hot with afternoon temperatures rising well in the 90’s F.


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Right now,  Zimbabwe is an ideal safari destination because of its safety and diversity.  It is practically the only Southern Africa destination which is at Level 2 (extra caution) on the US State Department travel advisory status.  And it is getting easier to reach:  Qatar Airlines is set to launch four weekly flights from Doha into Harare, likely starting on August 6 2021.  This Boeing Dreamliner service will be via Lusaka, Zambia and will make it much easier than before to include Mana Pools in a Zimbabwe itinerary.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on Ngamo Plains March 2021

Another strong advantage which Zimbabwe has over many other safari destinations, is that it is ideal for a ‘one country’ trip, with plenty of diversity, making it possible to put together a trip of 10 days or so with an unbeatable mix of wildlife viewing, adventure activities, cultural interaction and scenery.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – canoeing on the Bomani concession

Many visitors start or end in Victoria Falls.  Usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls and perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi.  The Falls are an awesome sight in March, April and May particularly but always nice to see – any time of the year – from the main falls on the Zimbabwe side.


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Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination.  This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area.  We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two.  In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs.

Ellerman House


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So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya.  Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic Sable antelope and the equally interesting Roan antelope.  Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals.  The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other families of birds.  It is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on the Hwange railroad tracks

Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe.  Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game & African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail.  Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too.  Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis, due to the relatively high cost of flying there.  The introduction of international flights into Harare will help to offset that.  Mana Pools is known as an ideal park for foot safaris.


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Lake Kariba and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake, is yet another attractive option for inclusion in a Zimbabwe itinerary.  A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba will enhance almost any Zimbabwe trip.  Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible.  I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake, where elephants and other animals are often seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.

Legendary Lodge


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Last but not least, it’s worth considering spending some time in the Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe.  If you definitely want to see rhinos in the wild, then this is the place to include on your itinerary, before moving on to Hwange.  Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of South-eastern Utah.  It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes.  This area – which Rhodes referred to as ‘World’s View’ is spectacular, particularly at sunset.


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In our blog post next week we will take a look at a couple of Zimbabwe safari camps which we rate very highly, and have elevated to our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Little Makalolo in Hwange and Chikwenya in Mana Pools.

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Our Groundhog Day List Part 3: Mombo Camp, Chief’s Island

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Our Groundhog Day List Part 3: Mombo Camp, Chief’s Island


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

Our Groundhog Day List Part 3: Mombo Camp, Chief’s Island

When I think of Mombo, I think of leopards and cheetahs on game drives, Cape buffaloes under the boardwalk and elephants wandering through camp.  I think of a former client of ours who once wrote me a note upon her return from a trip which included several days at Mombo.  She said that if somebody came up to her during the safari and advised her that there had been a mistake – and that she still owed 50% of the cost of the trip – she would gladly have taken out her checkbook.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

I still fondly recall our very first visit to Mombo – many years ago.  We had heard so much about Mombo, and had looked forward to the visit for so long that disappointment was a distinct possibility. Would Mombo live up to its reputation? Were our expectations too high? Would we find a cheetah and dare we hope for a sighting of that most elusive of African cats, a leopard? We’d been in Botswana for a week by that time, and had still not seen a spotted cat…


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

We need not have worried. Our duffel bags were still being retrieved from the small luggage pod under the aircraft when our guide mentioned that a Martial Eagle had just taken down a young impala, not far from camp. We were nodding our heads the moment he suggested an unscheduled midday game drive to go and take a look. The sight which greeted us was vintage Mombo: a magnificent adult Martial Eagle was perched on its freshly killed prey, wings spread open to obscure its meal from inquisitive airborne eyes.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

Alternately glaring at us and at the steadily growing number of vultures which were settling in the open field a respectful distance away, the bird started tearing chunks out of the impala, the fresh blood turning its black bill a vicious red. It was truly a once-in-a-lifetime sighting for all of us and I was not the only one shooting dozens of photos, trying to capture the essence of this most rare event. Even the experienced Mombo guides had never seen anything like this before.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

From there we went off in search of a cheetah.  It did not take long to find our quarry,  close by, lying down in the shadow of a tree. There were two of them – brothers who were improving their odds for survival by living and hunting in a coalition. The brothers were notorious for their size and for taking down lion sized prey such as adult zebras. They were literally lolling around, affectionately cleaning each other, before eventually ambling off. Within minutes, the two cheetahs were seemingly surrounded by giraffes, and at one stage we counted no less than 23 of the long-necked beasts, all staring intently at the cheetahs. 


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

By radio, our guide was then informed of a sighting of a leopard towards which we drove. In the fast disappearing light we had a brief look at our first leopard of the trip; a large male. By the end of our first half day at Mombo we had seen both leopard and cheetah. It simply doesn’t get any better than this, we thought. 

Ellerman House


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

Subsequently, we found two full-maned lions, enjoyed another leopard sighting and then witnessed an amazing sight of five young cheetah – about 4 months old – trying to overpower and bring down an adult impala. They were pulling it in all different directions, trying to take a chunk out of it at the same time. The adult female cheetah finally grabbed the hapless animal by the throat and put it out of its misery.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

The young ones started feeding ferociously, the mother retreating to a shady spot under a nearby tree. For the next 40 minutes or so, we watched the young cheetah gorging themselves on fresh impala. Occasionally they would lift their heads, survey their surroundings, or they would get up and change places. Every now and then one would look straight at us for a moment or two, its bloody muzzle reflecting the morning light.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

Barely into our afternoon game drive we had some nice close-up views of a female lion who had killed a young buffalo and had dragged it into a nearby bush. We were so close that we could see the flies she was trying to swat away from her muzzle, grimacing and squinting in the process.

Legendary Lodge


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

None of us were surprised when the radio crackled with news of yet another leopard sighting, this time a female with two young, a daughter of about 18 months, and a small cub of about 4 months. When we reached them, they were close together in a relatively densely wooded area, the playful cub skulking around and peering at us from behind a tree stump. Nervous impala were snorting their disapproval from all directions, and when yet another leopard, a male, appeared on the scene, the tension was palpable. The sub-adult female – which was possibly in estrus – quickly disappeared, following the male into very thick brush.


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

For the next half hour or so, we followed the mother and baby leopard as they softly padded their way through the bush. The cub would occasionally jump over obstacles – real and imagined, or dash up a tree only to come tumbling down clumsily. Once, the cub used its mother as a makeshift springboard, darting up from behind, bouncing once and plowing into the underbrush rather unsteadily.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Mombo Wilderness Safaris

By this time, we were stationary, the engine had been switched off and we were enjoying the moment in total silence.  The cameras had been put away, and it was too dark to use binoculars. Perhaps this absence of movement and activity in the vehicle helped to relax the cub even more, as it now approached very close to the Landrover, staring at us intently, its cute little face a mix of curiosity and audacity. A prince of stealth in the making, to be sure.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

Our fourth visit to Mombo – in March 2020 – started with a bang, just like the ones of previous years.  Within 20 minutes of the start of our first game drive, we were watching a female leopard and her cub up in a dead tree stump.  The cub repeatedly tried to one-up its mother, crawling past and over her, and sometimes clumsily falling down a log.  Mombo and its sister camp Little Mombo are special.  We’ve known that all along, but it was great to see that Mombo could deliver yet again, even in the low demand season with thick vegetation everywhere.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

Certainly, we had never seen so many elephants in and around Mombo.  There were small breeding herds all over the place and one morning the place seemed to have been overrun by an influx of huge bull elephants.

Kathy and I loved the spacious new rooms with large patios, making for great views of the animals in the floodplain.  The food at Mombo was delicious and made dining a very special experience.  We were thrilled to spend some time chatting with the friendly, Zimbabwean-born Mombo Executive chef, Tonderai Chipfupi, who gave us a little insight on the daily menu options.  In fact, all of the Mombo staff were wonderful and they made us feel very comfortable and at home.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

We were in tent #2 which was terrific, but we did have a bit of ‘tent envy’ when we learned that our neighbors in room #1 had an elephant visit regularly and drink from their splash pool. It turned out that their pool was a lot closer to the ground than ours, making it convenient for the elephants. Oh well…  We did enjoy the splash pool and deck while watching the animals in the floodplain.  One thing Mombo lacks is an evaporative cooling system in the rooms, like the ones at Jao.  We did take advantage of the air-conditioning in the gym when we went for a workout.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

Our fantastic guide Rogers got us into the right spots for some memorable sightings including great views of a male ostrich showing off with his mating dance.  It was most entertaining.  We watched the male ostrich run towards the female and then stop about 20 feet away, squat down while waving his beautiful black feathered wings and dancing like crazy! And success – it paid off.


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We also enjoyed following a young female leopard returning to her young cub hidden in the bush – it turned out to be an enthralling experience.  Another great sighting initially looked like four lions lying down in tall grass but upon further inspection it turned out to be a total of 10 lions partially hidden in the grass, watching a large herd of elephants.   We still have no idea how Rogers found a well hidden hyena den with a few young and skittish hyenas.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

On the last evening we were to be collected at our room and escorted to the boma dinner.  The wait ended up being a bit longer than usual, because our guide and the party from tent #1 were running late due to the pride of 10 lions we had seen earlier, marching through camp right under their room. When you experience a ‘lion delay’ you know that you are at Mombo! We thought the boma dinner and entertainment was exceptional and it was obvious the staff was having a wonderful time which made it even more memorable for the guests.


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Little Mombo – Wilderness Safaris

In our blog post next week, we turn the spotlight on a couple more ‘Groundhog Day’ properties, namely Jabulani Safari in Kapama Game Reserve, on the western side of Kruger Park in South Africa, and Little Makalolo Camp in Hwange, Zimbabwe.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane

10th June 2021

Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane


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Photo MalaMala

Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane

The Greater Kruger Park area in South Africa’s north-eastern region is one of the top safari destinations in Africa.  It attracts thousands of visitors annually, mostly from South Africa and its neighboring countries, as well as from abroad.  The park itself and the many private game reserves on the western side of the park (the eastern side being the border of Mozambique) offer a huge variety of accommodation options, from camping sites to basic self-catering huts, all the way to some of the best private lodges in Africa.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Over the years, we have sampled practically every accommodation option in the greater Kruger Park area, from self-catering trips with our parents as youngsters, staying at ‘rondavel’ huts in the Park, to spending time at a couple of dozen or so private safari camps, all over the area.  We’ve also done several foot safaris inside the park, most recently a rhino walking safari in the southern part of the park.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Do we have favorites?  We do.  While we enjoy luxury and the finer things in life as much as anybody else, we tend to focus on the game-viewing experience more so than the accommodation itself, the food and beverage options and the like.  For us, a successful safari will always be judged by the quality of the game-viewing and hand-in- hand with that, the quality of the guiding.


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Photo Royal Malewane

That is why these two properties – MalaMala Game Reserve and Royal Malewane – are among the handful of Kruger Park area camps which we’ve included in our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Places which we could visit over and over again and always experience something unexpected, new and exciting.


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Photo MalaMala

MALAMALA GAME RESERVE, SABI SAND RESERVE

We have been sending our clients to MalaMala Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand area adjacent to the Kruger Park, literally for decades.  Primarily because of the consistently good game-viewing which ranks right up there with the best in Africa.  No question about it.  Day after day, month in and month out, all of the so-called ‘Big Five’ mammals and much else besides, are seen at MalaMala, and close up.  Are there better safari camps in Africa for wildlife photography?  A few that may rival it, but none that are clearly better in my opinion.

Ellerman House


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Photo MalaMala

In an area that is known for its high density of wildlife, MalaMala occupies a prime position alongside the Sand River, with miles and miles of the river running through the property.  Year round – when it hasn’t rained for a while – and consistently in the dry season from about May through Oct/Nov, the river acts as a magnet for the animals, many of them moving into the MalaMala area out of Kruger Park.  Even more so now than in earlier years because of the closure of several artificially maintained water holes in the Kruger Park.


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Photo MalaMala

Add to that a well-earned reputation for excellent guiding, an extensive and well-maintained road network,  good yet unobtrusive communications between guides, and you have a winning recipe.

A couple of years or so ago, first Sable and then MalaMala Camp (formerly known as Main Camp), were re-fashioned,  giving them a fresh and slightly more contemporary feel, but retaining the classic Lowveld safari feel that is at the heart of the MalaMala experience.


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Photo MalaMala

The refurbishment of the rooms and general areas at MalaMala Camp and Sable Camp succeeded admirably in refreshing and updating the look and feel of MalaMala.  It brought in more light and some brighter colors with a bit of pop. The private decks are larger and just perfect for lounging while game viewing and star gazing.  All bolstering MalaMala’s long-cherished ‘authentic African safari’ feel and character.  This is still THE place to experience absolutely the best game-viewing in the Sabi Sands, bar none.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo MalaMala

With Kirkman’s Kamp (formerly part of MalaMala) now back under the same ownership, MalaMala’s already massive traversing area has been enlarged even more.  Of course this means that Kirkman’s vehicles are now also driving on the southern section of MalaMala (Charleston) but clearly there’s plenty of space for everybody.   From time to time vehicles will have to be cycled into and out of prime sightings but that happens everywhere and I do believe it will remain the exception rather than the rule at MalaMala.


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Photo MalaMala

Our game-viewing experience on a recent visit to MalaMala was typical.  After checking in (which was quick and efficient), we went on a short game drive with our guide Brendan. Right off the bat, we observed a couple of hippo out of the water which was good as we hadn’t seen any of them on the trip yet.  And then the predictable started to happen.  First it was a leopard. The Piccadilly female. She momentarily seemed interested in some prey animals but then changed her mind.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Photo MalaMala

The following morning our guide found several African painted dogs on the Toulon property and then – another first for the trip – rhino.  Not 200 meters from camp there was a white rhino in the river bed.   That afternoon, after a brief rhino detour (two massive white rhino feeding) we made our way to the northern section of the property where there were two cheetah boys resting in the shade.  Superficially identical to the females we had seen earlier (at Mashatu), they were noticeably bulkier and clearly stronger. We stayed there with them for a good 20 minutes plus before heading to camp.


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Photo MalaMala

It wasn’t over yet.  A solitary hyena led us to a hyena den which the local clan had just recently started using.  A second adult hyena female could be seen there, with two babies.  Next – lions!  The afternoon drive started on a high note with close-up views of the Eyrefield lion pride consisting of two males, three females and four sub-adults.

The best was left for last.  A surprise announcement by Brendan that a pangolin – also known as a Scaly Anteater and Ietermagog in Afrikaans – had been sighted and off we went to see it.   None of our group had ever seen one of these animals so we looked at this large, elongated and heavily scaled mammal in amazement. It looks more reptilian or amphibian than mammal, which makes it unique. Very rarely seen –  even less frequently than aardvark –  pangolin is a real ‘once in a lifetime’ sighting for most visitors to Africa.  Actually for most visitors it is a ‘never in a lifetime’ sighting.  That rare.


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Photo MalaMala

On the way out from the pangolin sighting we struck the jackpot again with a good look at a serval, a sleek small spotted cat which stared at the vehicle for a second or two and then bounded off into the bush at speed.  

As a memento of our ‘achievement’, Kathy and I both received a ‘Magnificent Seven’ certificate from MalaMala.   At MalaMala, notching up the ‘Big Five’ mammals over the course of two or three days is not at all unusual, but adding cheetah and African painted dogs to that list is special.


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Photo Royal Malewane

ROYAL MALEWANE LODGE, THORNYBUSH GAME RESERVE

Royal Malewane lodge in the Thornybush Game Reserve,  embodies hospitality at its most refined level and any well-informed Southern African travel expert would put it in a short list of ‘the best of the best’.  There’s nowhere else to go that would be better or would provide a more authentically South African safari experience.


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Photo Royal Malewane

While there are a few other ‘contenders’, for the single best safari lodge in Southern Africa, Royal Malewane can rightfully claim a spot at the very top of the list simply because of the excellence of its guiding staff.  They are without equal.  Being with someone like Rudi Hulshof on a game drive is like listening to a virtuoso performance by Yo-Yo Ma.  The cooking is at the same level.  Divine.  So are the rooms.  The property exudes the romance and beauty of a bygone age while offering every modern comfort and convenience.


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Photo Royal Malewane

On a recent visit to Thornybush, we spent some time at Royal Malewane Farmstead, where camp manager Nick Daneel and his team introduced us in splendid fashion to this iconic safari brand. I was thrilled to finally find out for myself what it was that has made Royal Malewane such a highly regarded and popular deluxe safari brand.

Like all great brands, Royal Malewane creates quality by imbuing every aspect and facet of the guest experience with quality.  To start with, the usual new arrival formalities were dealt with as efficiently and briskly as I’ve ever seen it done.  In the room – which was a veritable work of art itself – there was a half bottle size of quality sparkling wine on ice, if one were so inclined.


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Photo Royal Malewane

As a couple, we are always reluctant to open an entire 750 ml of sparkling wine (anywhere), knowing that most of it would be wasted.  Not an issue at Royal Malewane.  The mini-bar and snack bar had everything one could possibly want – and more.  The room had ample space, plenty of natural light, and a mix of practical and whimsical design and decorative elements which combined into an esthetically pleasing whole.  The Liz Biden touch was unmistakable.  I liked the fact that the suite was uncluttered, without any nooks and crannies, making the most of the available space. The back doors (French doors also located in the bathroom) opened up to a fabulous deck with an outdoor shower and an inviting splash pool.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Shortly afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious light tapas lunch and a bit later went out on the first of two outings with our guide, the afore-mentioned Rudi Hulshof, assisted by tracker Lodrick Mkansi. Over the course of 30 years in the safari business we’ve come across many excellent and a few superb guides.  Rudi quickly established himself as being in the latter group.  His pre-drive briefing was confident and comprehensive without being pedantic.  I was particularly pleased with his comments about sundowners, to the effect that people do not come to Africa to drink G & T’s  and that depending on the game-viewing scenario and flow, there may not be time for a drinks stop.  Which is exactly what happened.  We were so engrossed with a young female leopard resting on a horizontal branch and then a heart-stopping walk-by of five sub-adult lions, that a sundowner stop before sunset would have been out of place.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Rudi’s uncanny anticipation of animal behavior, his pithy, clear and concise comments about habitat, trees and plants and any topic we cared to raise, were what we had anticipated from the highly regarded and award-winning Royal Malewane guiding team.  Between them, the team has over 300 years of African bush experience, including no less than three of only seven living Master Trackers in the world.  


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Photo Royal Malewane

On the morning of our departure back to Jo’burg, we took a short game drive from the Farmstead to Royal Malewane where we enjoyed breakfast on the patio overlooking a well visited water hole.  It was great to finally see for ourselves what makes this place so special and famous.  The welcome from camp manager and expert guide Juan Pinto, illustrated how a few well chosen remarks can make a hugely favorable impression.  Juan complimented Kathy on her Swarovski binocs and then insisted on checking out my vintage pair of Zeiss 7 X 45’s.  Juan then offered to clean both pairs of binocs, despite having an imminent staff meeting.  That’s how you gain and retain a stellar reputation.


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Photo Royal Malewane

In our blog post next week, we highlight a few more properties on our Groundhog Day list, including Jabulani Safari in the Kapama Game Reserve in South Africa, and Mombo Camp on Chief’s Island in Northern Botswana.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1

4th June 2021

Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1


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Our ‘Groundhog Day’ Properties – Part 1

For the first installment in what may end up being a 3-part series, covering our top ten or so ‘Groundhog Day’ properties, I thought I’d include a full service hotel in Cape Town, a luxury safari camp in Kenya’s Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and a small, remote tented camp in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.


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Ellerman House

In our African travels over the years, our Fish Eagle Safaris team members have visited – and re-visited – a dizzying array of safari camps, lodges, beach resorts, hotels, guest houses and bed & breakfast establishments, in 12 African countries and Madagascar.  Practically without exception, we enjoyed our stay at each of them, from the most basic mobile tented camps out in the bush to the highest of high profile deluxe city hotels.


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Ellerman House

Every once in a while, when all or most things go right and we come across a jewel of a property, we add it to our exclusive ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  These are places where we could wake up every morning for the rest of our lives, and be happy and content.  There is no checklist or set of requirements, no rules or regulations to make it onto the list.  No special award either, except for the fortunate visitors who end up spending a few days at one or more of these properties.


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Ellerman House

Ellerman House, Cape Town

One of the first properties which we elevated to ‘Groundhog Day’ status was Ellerman House in Cape Town.  It didn’t take long for us to be awed when we first arrived there several years ago, on a warm November day.   It started with the paintings along the way to our room.  Being South African-born, I was stopped dead in my tracks by a striking Transvaal landscape by J H Pierneef, likely the greatest of the old South African masters.  We soon came to realize that Ellerman House is replete with fine South African works of art, both in the main house and the dedicated contemporary art gallery which we were to discover later.


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Ellerman House

Ellerman House is also a grand mansion, once the home of shipping magnate John Ellerman and his wife Esther, better known as Lady Ellerman.  Matter of fact, we spent our first night there in a room which used to be Lady Ellerman’s art studio. Exhausted after a long transatlantic journey, all we thought we wanted to do was sleep.  Until we explored the room a bit and saw the view from our private verandah, overlooking Bantry Bay and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.


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Ellerman House

Anchored by the lush green garden in front of the hotel, the view transitions to a white sandy beach, foam-topped waves, blue-green ocean and towering cumulus clouds in the background.   We had stepped into a postcard photo.  Simply sitting there in two comfortable lounge chairs with a cold drink in hand,  we experienced what all travelers seek, yet rarely find.  A magical moment when time and place create a memory which will remain vivid in our minds, every time we think about Ellerman House.


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Ellerman House

Lady Ellerman may have just dabbled in the fine arts but her one-time art studio is now a masterpiece unto itself, as are all of the Ellerman rooms and the two adjacent private villas.  There’s simply nothing to fault:  drop dead gorgeous views, private verandahs with as much appeal as the rooms themselves, a wine experience on par with the best in the country, the finest of fine dining – for house guests only – and everything underscored by a high level of unobtrusive yet impeccable personal service.  One could write a not-so-slim volume about Ellerman House’s fascinating history, its intersection with Cape Town’s art and music scene and the remarkable socio-economic upliftment work it has done in the local and greater South African community.


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Ellerman House

On a recent visit, wanting to explore the area around the hotel, we took the Bantry Steps (there’s 156) from Kloof Road down to Ravine Road and the Florida Steps (another 142) down to  Victoria Road, which turns into Beach Road eventually.  If you run far enough, which we did.  All along the Sea Point promenade, filled with runners and walkers, tourists and locals, all occasionally pausing to take in the amazing views over the Atlantic Ocean.  Families with kids exploring some of the coves, people walking their dogs, hang gliders descending from Lion’s Head, it was an idyllic scene of people having fun and enjoying some leisure time in the bright sunshine.

Legendary Lodge


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Ellerman House

The three mile or five kilometer Sea Point Promenade – named after the best known of the areas which it fronts – starts in Granger Bay, less than a kilometer from the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.  From there it goes past the red-and-white-striped lighthouse of Mouille Point and continues to Sea Point itself before curving around to Bantry Bay.  From and back to Ellerman House, inclusive of the 596 steps down from Kloof Street and back up again, this 10 kilometer stretch is very much a ‘rave run’ –  or refreshing walk – all the way.  

On your next trip to Cape Town, consider spending a few nights at Ellerman House and like us, you may feel like waking up there, over and over again.


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Sirikoi Safari Lodge, Lewa – Kenya

Every once in a while on my African travels, I discover a place that almost immediately appeals to me and which I soon realize, our guests will come to enjoy and appreciate as well.  The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in north-central Kenya is one of those places.  Lewa is special on many levels.  Back when I first visited it in the late 1990’s, it struck me as being almost sublimely ‘out of Africa’.   On my most recent visit there, I felt just the same way.  Mostly, the place just shouts ‘Africa’.  Standing there, on a clear day, you can see the jagged peaks of Mt. Kenya to the south.  If you turn around 180 degrees, on the horizon to the north, looms the sacred mountain of the Samburu – Mt. Ololokwe.  Mountains, valleys, vast open plains and amazing vistas of blue foothills disappearing into the void.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Other ways in which Lewa is special?  It harbors and actively protects more rhinos (white and black) than any other conservancy in East Africa.  Lewa’s rhino population has grown from an initial 15 rhinos to around 170 rhinos currently, nearly 15% of all rhinos in Kenya.  Lewa also has a great mix of endemic species including Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx and reticulated giraffe.  Some of these animals – like the Grevy’s zebras – are rare and endangered and they are all spectacularly beautiful.


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We use several Lewa properties for our guests including Lewa Safari Camp, Lewa Wilderness and Borana Lodge, in the adjacent (and now connected) Borana Conservancy.  A property which we had used before, but not visited ourselves until fairly recently, is Sirikoi.  Sirikoi turned out to be worth waiting for!  It is an oasis like few others, from location to accommodation and management.  The tented rooms, main lounge and dining room areas are stylish and immaculately maintained, and the food and beverage service is of an exemplary quality.  While at Sirikoi, I took some time off from the game-viewing to scout out the property and surroundings a bit better.


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With its mix of four luxury tents and two exclusive use houses (with 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively), Sirikoi caters for discerning guests who like and enjoy comfort and luxury, but in an elegant, understated fashion.  There is nothing over the top or extravagant about Sirikoi.  It strikes a perfect balance between being luxurious and stylish, yet retaining the essence of a true Kenyan retreat.


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Sirikoi’s location right alongside the Sirikoi stream, on the edge of a large swamp, results in wildlife often entering the property and being visible from the open dining deck in front of the camp.  In the late afternoon and early evening, as the birds settle down and nocturnal creatures like bush babies start to get active, enjoying a sundowner at Sirikoi is as good as it gets on safari.  I experienced just that on my last night there.  One by one a family of seven striped kingfishers disappeared into a communal hole in a tree where they were to sleep for the night.  Guinea fowls started to gather high in a nearby tree, as did baboons (not without some squabbling), vervet monkeys and even crowned cranes which flew out of the swamp to the protection of an elevated roost. 

It became quiet as the sun set over the low hills to the west, the pinkish light remaining for a long time, with the trees perfectly reflected in the glassy surface of the pool.  The end of a perfect day in Africa.


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Jozibanini Camp, Hwange – Zimbabwe

A more recent addition to our Groundhog Day list is Jozibanini, a small tented camp in a remote area of Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.  Jozibanini is everything that Ellerman House is not, except that Jozi’s ‘restaurant’ is also open only to guests.  Not to take that too literally of course, seeing as the restaurant at Jozibanini is a small table and a few chairs, under the stars, in sight of an open fire-place.   Guests at Jozi will search in vain for a temperature-controlled pool, a state-of-the art gym or – perish the thought – a television set.  Jozibanini is so remote that outside communication is limited to a satellite phone.


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Instead of 5,000 plus bottles of fine wine in its cellar, Jozi can offer you thousands of stars overhead, every night.  There’s several cool beverages on offer though. Many of us enjoy fine South African vintage wines but let’s face it, a cold beer at the end of a long day on safari with many animals and nobody else around is – priceless.


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Jozibanini’s underground “look-up” blind is one-of-a-kind.  On my last visit the noisy shutter release sound on my Nikon camera spooked a large bull elephant at the water hole.  Fortunately we were safe inside the hide but it goes to show just how close you get to the animals.  Be sure to pack a quiet mirrorless camera for your trip!  If you’re feeling adventurous you can head off on a guided mountain bike ride along the elephant paths traversing the dune troughs around Jozibanini. 


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And if you’re in need of more star gazing, the beds can be rolled into the deck of the tents for an extraordinary star-bed experience gazing skyward at thousands of stars in the dark Hwange sky. By introducing tourism into this formerly deserted area, the Jozi project has helped protect vast swathes of Hwange and its wildlife, while creating more jobs for guides, camp staff, national parks employees and conservation personnel.  Go to Jozi and the people and thirsty elephants of Hwange will be forever in your debt.  If you can, travel in the cooler, dry months from about April through August.  It can get very hot in Hwange from mid-September through March.


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In our blog next week we will focus on a few more of our Groundhog Day properties in the Greater Kruger Park area, being Jabulani Safari, MalaMala Game Reserve and Royal Malewane.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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