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From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

14th October 2023

From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

Birds in flight

Birds in flight and wildlife photographers have an uneasy relationship. Things go wrong as often as they go right. Getting focus-lock on a moving subject is probably the most challenging aspect of the endeavor. And then getting a high enough shutter speed to stop the motion and avoid the dreaded blurry images… Lately I’ve been shooting birds in flight at around 1/1,250 shutter speed and f-8 with ISO set to auto with pretty decent results.  

African skimmers are my favorite birds to capture in flight, hands down. Or maybe I should say wings down? Kathy and I were fortunate to bump into a bunch of them on the banks of the Rufiji River in what is now Nyerere National Park (formerly Selous) a little more than a month or so ago in Tanzania.

Here are a few of the skimmer photos:

With a 500-mm lens it is possible to almost completely blur the background for a pleasing ‘bokeh’, which also makes the subject ‘pop’. Which is exactly what you want.

Sometimes it is a good idea to show some habitat; in this case the typical – beautiful – Nyerere (Selous) riverine forest along the truly magical Rufiji River where baobab trees often creep into the photos.  

I had never gotten a photo of an African skimmer while calling, until this time – when I captured two of them ‘talking’ at the same time! Skill or luck? I’d like to think a little bit of both.  

Symmetry is a photographer’s friend and capturing these two skimmers in similar positions, with their graceful wings pointed down, is what makes this an interesting shot. Background is always an important consideration when shooting birds in flight; a green leafy background is almost always better than anything else.  

What is better than one skimmer or two skimmers? A bunch of skimmers, obviously. When captured together in a flock – the tighter the better – almost all birds make an interesting photo. 

Adding drama to your photos

How does one add drama to a photograph? There’s several tried and trusted ways including motion blur, silhouettes, lighting effects, shadows and backlighting. Sometimes, nature itself supplies the drama, you just have to channel it. Take dust, smoke and fog for example. Each one of these can turn an ordinary wildlife situation into something special. I’ve seen it multiple times with wildebeest, elephants and rhinos. Elephants kicking up dust at Amboseli, rhinos shrouded in fog in the Masai Mara, a smoky background in the Okavango Delta, in the aftermath of a veld fire. Those are conditions that can turn your run of the mill photographs into little masterpieces. What might otherwise be a pretty ho-hum scene can become truly magical – with tons of drama – with just a little dust, smoke or fog. Of course, you have to be in the right spot at the right time. And have a plan. 

When we came upon a mixed group of vultures in Ruaha National Park recently, I was initially only mildly interested in the scene. Until we saw a fearless black-backed jackal almost recklessly charge right into the thick of the vulture pack, desperately trying to drive them off what remained of an impala carcass.  

Suddenly everything changed. There was dust everywhere as the jackal startled several of the birds into flight. I was ready for the second charge, with a high shutter speed at f/11, which would – I thought at the time – provide me with sufficient depth of field to get the jackal and some of the birds in focus. It worked. Maybe not 100% – I could have used even more depth of field – but keeping the lens focused on the birds and waiting for the jackal to rush into the frame had the desired outcome.  

Here are a few of the photographs:

On a morning game drive from Kigelia Ruaha camp in Ruaha National Park last August, we initially drove by this flock of vultures surrounding the carcass of an impala until we saw a black backed jackal rushing across the road, straight into the bunched up vultures.

Seemingly fearless, the relatively small jackal tore into the vultures, biting into their wings indiscriminately and chasing off several of them. The resulting commotion and ensuing dust is what ultimately turned the scene from a not-so-special sighting to a true spectacle. 

The jackal found itself facing overwhelming odds but it persevered, making several charges and finding itself right in the thick of the action more than once.

While I would have loved to have gotten a little better focus on the jackal in this photo (should have used maybe f/13 instead of f/11 for more depth of field) it nonetheless captures the essence of the conflict and the proximity of the jackal to the vultures. 

In the aftermath, with the dust settling and the vultures getting ready to consume what remains of the impala, there is a sense of a battle having been won, and of nature taking its course. 

Becoming a better photographer

Becoming a better photographer is an ongoing process, much like it is with any other skill. Early on, after buying my first semi-professional camera in 2008, I started with in-person and later online instruction. At the time there were lots of excellent instructional photography books available. Some were better than others. I do recall ‘Understanding Exposure’ by Bryan Peterson as being particularly helpful. Nowadays of course the internet is a treasure trove of instructional videos and e-books.  

How long does it take to get good at photography? It depends how much time and effort you put into it. If you get serious with your photography, it will take about two to three years to acquire competence to the point where you will be able to shoot confidently in the manual setting. Also, by then you should have a good understanding of the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO, the three sides of the exposure triangle. You will be well on your way to understanding and using depth of field and you will know enough about composition (the rule of thirds and when to break it), to avoid the most common beginner’s mistake which is to center each and every object in the frame. You’ll also be able to read a histogram. It may take as long as ten to twelve years of study and work to really master the skill of photography. Fortunately, there are no age limits or expiration dates. So keep shooting, keep learning and keep enjoying making beautiful images! 

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Fish Eagle Safaris was an early adopter of digital photography. Company founder Bert somewhat fondly recalls using a first generation Sony Mavica on a trip to Madagascar in 1998. It was slow and primitive measured against the standards of current digital cameras, but it did the job. Having the capability of taking a photograph and being able to see it just seconds later (rather than waiting to have film developed and printed) seemed like the future at the time. The reaction of the Madagascar kids who crowded around Bert to look at themselves in the photos, just seconds after an exposure, was priceless.

Since then, the Fish Eagle Safaris team has gained considerable experience and a measure of expertise in the field of wildlife photography. Particularly since 2008 when we purchased our first big camera and telephoto lens combination. At the time, it was a Nikon D300 and a Nikon 200-400 f/4 Zoom lens. We still use many of the images taken with the 200-400 zoom lens. At nearly 7 pounds it is hefty but few other lenses beat it for versatility and all-round excellence. The 200-400mm f/4 is still a great choice for a Nikon shooter who wants a long zoom lens that can let you keep your camera’s shutter speed high and ISO low in a variety of lighting conditions.

Some years later, we upgraded to a Nikon D-4 camera – which we still use. With an optional battery grip, it is fast (8 to 9 exposures per second) and it is a monster in poor light. A couple of Bert’s photos of a Zimbabwe lion Xander – unethically hunted and killed just like his much more famous father Cecil – ended up on ABC World News Tonight as well as in several other publications, websites and broadcast media around the world, a few years ago.

SET A REALISTIC OBJECTIVE
Before any trip, I like to think about the type of images I can expect to capture, depending on the places & activities on the itinerary. Predictably, the bulk of them will be shot from an open vehicle during a game drive. Sometimes, the object will be a long distance away, simply because it is wary or shy or regulations prohibit off-road driving. At other times the object will be huge like an elephant or giraffe, and very close to the vehicle. I would also plan on shooting some birds in flight on boating outings such as on the Kafue and Zambezi, or from a mokoro or a skiff in the Okavango Delta. Plus some close ups of mammals and birds from blinds. Other than pure wildlife photos, I would usually include a smattering of images of guide and visitor interaction on a walking safari or other activity, a few sunrises, sunsets, and some room and camp shots. Depending on the itinerary, there may be some candid photos on a cultural activity such as when walking with descendants of traditional hunter-gatherers in the Kalahari.

It is a useful exercise to jot down a few notes about the type and variety of images you are likely to capture, which helps inform the choice of equipment and eventually with the planning and execution of the day to day activities and outings. If you already have an idea of the kind of photos you’re after, it really makes life a lot easier for your professional guide. They will know what to concentrate on and they will get you into better positions with more opportunities to capture exactly the type of images which you had in mind. Which of course makes for a fun and enjoyable experience.

Like many other wildlife photographers our aim is to capture the essence of what makes wildlife viewing special. Often it is just a moment in time, such as when two Hartmann’s zebras pause in near perfect light in front of a succulent plant in Damaraland in Namibia – and both lift their heads, staring straight at the camera. A second earlier their heads were down – no photo there. A second later, they were gone. Successful wildlife photography is all about capturing those moments. Those special moments will present themselves in many different ways. Sometimes it is literally just a second or two such as an animal briefly pausing, a bird taking off from a perched position or a leopard descending from a tree. At other times it may be painted dogs hunting, lion cubs playing, elephants walking with Mt. Kilimanjaro in the background, young elephant bulls jousting in a pond, or habituated meerkats emerging from their den. The list is endless and limited only by one’s imagination.

Good wildlife photography is much more than a collection of point and shoot images of any animal or bird which gets into range. The captures should be engaging, or at least interesting and always as technically correct as possible. Only if the subject is something extraordinary like a pangolin or an aardvark will we even consider publishing a photo which may be slightly blurred or not 100% tack sharp.

Over the years we have refined and tightened our objectives. We don’t just take wildlife photos to record the presence of an animal or bird or other living organism. We try to create context and background, tell a story, create some drama, make it exciting and appealing.

CREATING THE RIGHT SCENARIO
How do we make our photographs special? First of all by creating the best possible scenario for our photography, by having the right equipment, by spending enough time in a location and by being patient.

The right scenario could be many things. It starts with being in the right place at the right time. Looking for leopards? Then visit the areas and the camps where they are likely to be seen and be out in the bush right around first light and again in the late afternoon. There are always exceptions but mostly nocturnal animals like leopards and lions are best photographed early and late in the day. Observing sleeping lions is standard fare on practically any African safari and there is really no less interesting an object than that. The secret is to be out and ready to capture your first image well before the sun rises. Recently in Botswana, we again realized how critical it is to be out early in the warmer months. If you’re not ready to leave camp right around 5:30 a.m. in summer, you are almost definitely going to miss out on seeing some of the predator activity. In some areas – where it gets really cold at night – even the animals tend to hunker down in the early mornings until it gets a bit warmer. So this is not an all-encompassing ‘rule’. At Tswalu in the Cape Kalahari for example, some of the nocturnal creatures like the aardvark and pangolin adjust their usual night-time feeding activity by being out during the day, to avoid the worst cold.

You can stay out as long as you want but don’t expect to find active leopards or lions in the middle of a warm or hot day. They will be sleeping or resting up in shade deep inside a bush, or – in the case of leopards – maybe hidden within the tree canopy on a branch. There are always exceptions. We saw a leopard stalk and kill a blackbacked jackal in Etosha National Park, Namibia at 2 pm one day, not long ago.

For the purpose of this discussion we will avoid discussing night photography simply because we don’t really do it. We’ll try to get some captures of an aardvark, an owl or other nocturnal creature we happen to stumble upon on a night drive, but it’s purely incidental.

SHOOTING DURING THE GOLDEN HOURS
We try to maximize natural light to its best advantage in the couple of ‘golden hours’ just after sunrise and before sunset. This is when practically any subject comes alive – even the most ubiquitous of antelopes like impalas and the East African gazelles look good in the soft, forgiving light associated with the golden hours.

Which brings me to one of my few pet peeves about wildlife photography. I do not like to be driving around excessively during the morning and afternoon ‘good light’ window. My request to guides is always to find a suitable object soon and to stay with it for a considerable length of time, while the light is good. Find a nice group of zebras at 7 in the morning? Stay with them, wait for them to line up in an interesting way or for two of the young stallions to start play-fighting. Or some such scenario. Don’t snap off a couple of quick shots, only to start driving again almost immediately. During the good light period in the morning and afternoon you want your guide to be more patient than ever.

Digital photography – and specifically the image alterations and corrections which can be made in the processing phase – has somewhat reduced the ‘golden hour’ fixation of the film era. It is now relatively easy to ameliorate the harsh shadows caused by overly bright midday conditions, for example. Also, on overcast days you may be able to capture some great images well beyond the early morning and late afternoon hours. Which is great but does not detract from the importance of capturing as many images as you can, during the golden hours. The warm, golden light adds a certain elegance to exposures which is just about impossible to achieve at any other time of the day.

TAKE YOUR TIME
Patience and perseverance go hand in hand with wildlife and nature photography. Stick around long enough and interesting things are bound to happen. This is particularly true around water holes in the dry season but not exclusively so. Patience and perseverance can take many forms with wildlife photography. It can involve spending several hours with a coalition of cheetahs, waiting for them to initiate a chase and hopefully a kill. Or hanging out in the proximity of a pack of African painted dogs, likewise waiting for them to adopt a hunting mode or for the youngsters to start playing.

Parking yourself at a hippo pool for an extended period of time almost invariably will produce a decent ‘wide open mouth with impressive tusks’ shot. If you’re lucky, there will be a territorial spat between two competing males, when things can get really exciting. One or more of the animals may leave or enter the pool, or you can get lucky with capturing a tender mother and baby moment. When hippos get ready to leave the water for their grazing grounds – usually by nightfall – some of them will make a spin move when they do a 360-degree roll, momentarily exposing their pink bellies. I’ve seen it happen several times. Do I have a great photo of it yet? No. But I haven’t given up and will be spending more time at a hippo pool, just waiting for the moment…

Spending enough time in an area is crucial. You will see and experience more, the entire experience will be more enjoyable and your photography will benefit immeasurably. Animals move around in real time and you simply have to give yourself enough time to find them and to photograph them under optimal conditions. If there are cheetahs in an area you are not likely to see them in just a day, in one or two game drives. Over the course of three or four days you very well might. Time and a bit of luck creates opportunity for more than just a quick snapshot.

EQUIPMENT CHOICES
Whenever members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team get ready for a trip to Africa – or Madagascar – they will usually have most of these pieces of equipment in their bag:

  • An iPhone for general landscapes, closeups of animals, low-light photography, rooms and lodge interiors and exteriors and for shooting videos (making use of an Osmo stabilizing device).
  • A Sony A-6300 camera with a couple of lenses (a short 16-70mm zoom and a medium 55-210mm zoom). A compact mirrorless camera is handy when portability is an issue, such as on a Kilimanjaro trek or any longer hike, or on a boating or mokoro outing where a DSLR is just too heavy and there is a risk of getting wet.
  • One or two full-frame cameras such as the Nikon D-4 and Nikon D-850. On his most recent outing to Botswana, Bert had both of these cameras in the vehicle, using a long telephoto lens on the one and a shorter 70-200 zoom lens on the other.
  • Depending on the location, several lenses such as:
    A 50-mm f/1.4 for low-light and food photography,
    A short zoom 28-70 f/2.8 as an all-purpose walking around lens, for room interiors and lodge shots, as well as people photography,
    A medium range 70-200 f/2.8 zoom lens for closer up and larger animals such as elephants and giraffes or for capturing more of the background and habitat with animals in the foreground,
    A longer zoom lens such as the Nikon 200-400 f/4 or the Tamron 150-600/f5.6 for more remote objects, birds in flight, and the like.

Generally speaking, we think that a zoom lens in the 100-400 mm range or perhaps 150-600 mm covers a good spectrum. For eye-popping close-ups and for decent bird photography, it would be advisable to spring for a 500mm or even a 600mm prime lens. Nikon’s 500 f/5.6 Phase Fresnel lens is the smallest, lightest full-frame 500mm prime lens ever at just over 9 inches long and just over 3 lbs in weight.

We shoot in RAW only which is really the way to go. The RAW files are much bigger than JPEG files but memory cards and hard drives are not nearly as expensive as they used to be. Most importantly, a RAW file captures uncompressed data from your camera sensor and gives you much more information to work with in the post-processing phase, than a compressed JPEG.

We recommend taking an external hard drive such as a Western Digital Passport (available in 1 or 2 Terabyte sizes at reasonable cost) to download and store your images. Best practice is to do this on a daily basis, so that you will have your images protected in at least two places (the memory card and external hard drive).

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Photo by Green Safaris

Chisa Busanga and the Northern Busanga Plains, Kafue

Where many of us live – certainly here in Houston – two rear view mirrors on the left and right hand side of a car are not enough. You really need two additional wide-angle mirrors to make your way safely around the freeways. In Zambia? How about zero mirrors. In the wilderness areas we visited this last July, most of the mirrors on the game drive vehicles had been rendered inoperable. There is no need to see what is behind you because there is nothing there. In some areas there were not even any doors on the game drive vehicles. Don’t need them, don’t have them…


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Photo by Green Safaris

My impressions are still fresh but above all Zambia was an authentic, classic safari experience. Everything felt real and genuine, from the greeting at Lusaka International Airport to the treatment we received at the various camps. The management, staff and guides at these camps were friendly and accommodating, and did everything they could to keep us happy and entertained. But more than that, they seemed to take a genuine interest in us.  We never ever felt like ‘just another guest’ or visitor – and this carried through to after-dinner conversations which were always lively and fun.


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Photo by Green Safaris

In summary, the trip was everything we had anticipated and more: remote, fantastic camps, excellent guiding, great views of a dizzying variety of mammals, birds and other wildlife, amazing scenic beauty, generally light to practically non-existent tourism traffic,  first class food and drink and seamless transfers between camps and national parks.


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Photo by Green Safaris

Activities were very diverse, ranging from game drives to walking, boating, canoeing, observing wildlife from hides, night drives, and a private lunch on the Zambezi River.  There we were, drifting downstream on one of the mightiest rivers in Africa, being served sparkling wine and orange juice, and tucking into a delicious meal…


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Photo by Green Safaris

But I’m running a little ahead of myself.  In the last week of July, we traveled from Musekese in the Lufupa area, to Chisa Busanga Camp.  On our arrival there, Camp Manager Chipasha Mwamba – ‘everyone calls me Pasha’ – sat us down for the customary arrival briefing.  Pasha made an indelible impression as an enthusiastic, passionate and very warm person and we enjoyed her company throughout our all too brief stay.


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Photo by Green Safaris

Even before we were shown to our accommodation which consisted of innovative, elevated ‘nest’ tents, Pasha helped me out with a battery re-charging issue.  She was almost never out of sight during our stay at Chisa Busanga which is unusual for camp managers  – yet highly prized and appreciated by visitors.  I have no doubt that Pasha will keep things running exceedingly smoothly at Chisa Busanga and future guests can look forward to spending some time in her vivacious company.


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Photo by Green Safaris

Then it was time to see our rooms.  At the end of a groomed sandy pathway, there was the elevated ‘nest’ structure which would be my home for the next couple of nights, complete with metal ‘ribs’, canvas and twigs. It felt like a real nest with a large opening from where I had a great view over the floodplains.  Contrary to my expectations – having seen some photographs of the structures before arriving – the room did not feel weird or contrived.  It blended in well with the environment.  Also, it was cozy and comfortable.  Happily tucked into my bed with a warm water bottle, it didn’t matter that we had arrived at Chisa Busanga in the middle of an exceptionally cold spell.


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Photo by Green Safaris

The nests sit four meters off the ground, with the zippered entrance at the top of a short flight of wooden steps.  Everything inside the room worked well, from the adequate lighting to the hot water showers and battery recharging points.  The creative room design may have initially presented some construction challenges but I think the end product is admirable in several ways.  Spending a night in a tree house brings out the adventurer in us, ready to experience something new, fun and exciting.  There is nothing boring about Chisa Busanga!


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Not having WiFi was an issue.  WiFi is clearly something that needs to be delivered when offered.  We will give Chisa Busanga a pass, as apparently there were some widespread satellite issues in Zambia at the time, affecting more than just the northern Busanga area.

The food at Chisa Busanga was consistently excellent.   Among the highlights were a delicious lamb curry and a perfectly prepared corn and coconut soup.  Brunch was stellar as well with tasty fish cakes, chickpea patties, a green salad, a tomato feta salad, eggs to order and pork sausages.  

Legendary Lodge


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Game drives at Chisa Busanga

Our afternoon game drive delivered an exceptionally good sighting of lions – three male lions in their prime.  We spent some time on the edge of a beautiful pan full of wildlife including puku, lechwe, and wattled cranes. Just like Green Safaris’ Shawa Luangwa Camp (see our blog post about that property here), Chisa Busanga operates solar-powered Landcruisers so we explored the plains quietly and cleanly. Almost noiselessly, in fact – and without emitting any noxious fumes.

The following morning we did an early morning game drive out of Chisa Busanga. After a quiet start, we came upon a scene of hundreds of lechwe and puku at the large wetland area close to a massive stand of papyrus.  There were hundreds of birds to be seen in every direction.  Huge flocks of open-billed storks and many others.  Not to mention an abundance of hippos.  

On an afternoon outing on my previous visit to the area, we visited the same papyrus grove specifically to try to find some Sitatunga, the rare and extremely shy antelope more commonly associated with the Okavango Delta than with Zambia.


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We had hardly arrived when our guide excitedly pointed out two Sitatunga standing in a small clearing on the edge of the massive papyrus thicket. We got a good look at them and then suddenly spotted several more.  As it turned out there were 6 of them in total, including two young ones which were running around just like little impalas. It was an exceptional sighting.  On the way back to camp we saw a family group of 6 water mongooses which our guide considered to be a unique sighting as these mammals are usually solitary. I also got some good photographs of Roan antelope so all in all it was a very successful afternoon outing.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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On that same trip – staying at nearby Shumba Camp – we went out on a 45 minute boating trip in a Go Devil craft.  It was fun and we got some excellent close up looks at hippo, who were very interested in our presence, especially when we ‘anchored’ in clear sight of them.  As we were enjoying our tea break, they were giving us the evil eye, not at all impressed with the new neighbors. We also marveled at the large numbers of open-billed stork in the area, many of which took to the sky when our rather noisy boat passed them by.


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I was happy to revisit Shumba on this trip, albeit on a relatively brief site inspection.  The camp looked every bit as good and spotless as I had first seen it several years ago.  Shumba has six luxury rooms, each with a well appointed indoor and outdoor shower, a large bathroom, and there is an inviting sunken verandah in front of the room, with stunning views over the floodplains.  The expansive main area has plenty of space for relaxation and dining and there’s a pool, as well as a fireplace. The entire camp is raised on a wooden platform.


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Our afternoon game drive was rather uneventful, but we did see a different pride of lions, two young males and two young females. The northern Busanga Plains area has as many as 35 lions in total.  Our next stop was at Shumba’s Go Devil boat station, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset, with hippos visible in every direction.


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The Busanga Plains

Found in the northern region of Zambia’s Kafue National Park, this remote wilderness is distinct from the miombo woodlands of the park. Here, flat grassland dambos are dotted with date palms and sausage and fig trees.  It is a high rainfall area which makes for a relatively short but eventful season.  

As the flood waters recede over June to November, the Busanga Plains become accessible for safaris characterised by outstanding game-viewing, predator action and colorful birdlife.


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Indeed, the Busanga Plains are considered to be one of the best bird-watching areas in Southern Africa.  With a bit of luck, you might find the endemic Chaplin’s barbet,  rosy-throated longclaw, supremely colorful Ross’s turaco or another area special, the black-backed barbet.  The Busanga is also all about cranes and at times as many as five or six different types of cranes can be seen, including the distinctive grey crowned and endangered wattled cranes.  With a total bird count of more than 450 bird species, Busanga is definitely a birding paradise.  In the summer months, migrants like the lesser kestrel and Montagu’s harriers are out and about, while the redoubtable Secretary birds – everybody’s favorite – are relatively easily seen.  The distinctive call of the African Fish Eagle is very much part of the Busanga soundtrack. 


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During the wet months much of the area is inundated and dominated by water-loving species like hippos, crocs, red lechwe, puku, and water birds. When the drier months come around, the water starts to recede and this brings out species like roan, tsessebe, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, buffalo, and more. Inevitably, the predators then follow: lions, leopards, hyaenas, cheetahs, even African painted dogs from time to time.


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Even though the Busanga camps are only open for the five drier months of the year, their very presence and the contribution they make to funding anti-poaching operations, are vital to conserve and restore the wilderness and wildlife of the northern Kafue National Park.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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The Hyena and the Crocodile: South Luangwa, Zambia

20th August 2021

DThe Hyena and the Crocodile: South Luangwa, Zambia


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The Hyena and the Crocodile: South Luangwa, Zambia

Even if you travel to Africa regularly, and have been on safari many times, each day brings something new and something exciting.  It may be as simple as seeing the same animals in a different light, or witnessing a difference in their behavior, or perhaps seeing them react to the presence of predators.  And then there are those really special days on safari, when you see something extraordinary.  So it was last month in Zambia when we witnessed an incredible scene of a hyena and a Nile crocodile facing off over the remains of a dead puku antelope.


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Earlier that day, we had left Chinzombo Camp after an early breakfast, game-driving along the Luangwa River, on our way to Kakuli Camp, where we would be spending the night. We witnessed a good mix of general game, including elephants, buffaloes, zebras, giraffe, impala, puku, warthog and an amazing variety of birds.  We also happened upon a couple of young male lions, sleeping right alongside the dirt track we were on.  They did not so much as lift their heads upon our approach, merely opening an eye to acknowledge our presence.


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As we were approaching a well-known oxbow lagoon along the Luangwa River – known as the Luangwa Wafwa – our guide Innocent saw a solitary hyena feeding on something about 10 meters or so from the edge of the water.  It was a long distance away from where we had stopped, to get the binoculars trained on the spot.  Upon closer inspection, we saw that it was in fact a female hyena, ripping away chunks of meat from the carcass of a puku antelope.

Photo – Great Plains Conservation


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We surmised that the puku had gotten stuck in the mud when it had ventured too close to the water’s edge, possibly sometime during the previous evening.  We also noticed the presence of several large crocodiles on the edge of the water, not far from the hyena, seemingly resting up.  By their general demeanor and positioning,  we deduced that they knew exactly what was going on, and that they had an eye – or more than one – on the hyena and the puku.  Crocodiles rarely ignore the opportunity of a ‘free meal’…


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Somehow the puku’s distended stomach got separated from what remained of the carcass and this is when things got interesting.  As we had anticipated and secretly hoped for, one of the crocodiles lifted its head and started to waddle closer to the dead puku, clearly wanting to get in on the feeding action.


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Although it was stuffed to the gills, the hyena would have none of it.  She stoutly defended her prey from the crocodile, twice getting into a scuffle of sorts with the crocodile, at least once succeeding in biting the crocodile on its nose, and another time on its tail.  Even though we were a good 50 meters away, the tension was palpable.  The hyena’s aggression was on full display.

Legendary Lodge


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With its jaws wide open, displaying its fearsome teeth, its body tensed and its tail cocked, its intent was clear as daylight.  Stay away!   Eventually the crocodile retreated back towards the water, realizing that not even the threat of its own formidable jaws was going to make a difference.  This hyena was going nowhere.


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None of us, including our guide, had ever seen this type of behavior.  Of course, it was one of those rare incidents where several unrelated things intersected at a specific time and place.  A dead antelope close to water, and crocodiles within sight. A solitary hyena feeding from the carcass.  All of this in daylight.  And of course we had to show up at the right time.   As the scene played out in front of our eyes, we looked at each other in disbelief, not only about what was going on, but also because there was nobody else around to see it.  In this usually busy area, we were the only vehicle around, for the entire time.


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Eventually we had to leave the animals to their fate, driving further along the Luangwa River in the direction of Kakuli Camp.  An hour or so later, we were in camp, enjoying the beautiful views over the Luangwa River, from the lounge area of this small bush camp.  As it happened, we were just in time for a delicious brunch, and then we enjoyed a short siesta until we met up again for tea around 3:30 in the afternoon.  Served with chocolate cupcakes, lemonade and fresh fruit.  What a treat!


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As it turned out, the afternoon game drive was quite exciting too, the highlight being two different sightings of African Painted Dogs.  Initially a small group of four and then a solitary one, an hour or so later.  Shortly afterwards, we were treated to a ‘surprise’ sundowner event, with drinks and snacks offered right on the edge of the Luangwa River, with an absolutely fantastic view over the water.


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After a quiet drive back to camp, we sat down for a delicious dinner with an onion fritter starter, a delicious main course of grilled tilapia and a local version of ‘New York’ cheesecake, for dessert.  We were grateful that we did not have to face angry hyenas or hungry crocodiles, to be able to enjoy our meal.


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KAKULI CAMP

Kakuli, meaning old buffalo bull, was the nickname given by locals to Time & Tide’s founder Norman Carr, who began the tradition of walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park.

Its five bright and airy rooms (including a two-bedroom, two-bathroom family suite) are designed to make the most of the panoramic setting. Freshly redesigned in 2018, each offers a feather-top bed, indoor and outdoor showers, and a covered open-air seating area.


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The elevated main lounge overlooks the river and a permanent lagoon. Beneath it, a wildlife hide offers up-close views of visitors stopping by for a drink. We spent a bit of time there, observing several different bird species. The camp makes a great base for exploring by vehicle and on foot, with a resident lion pride, a seasonal colony of jewel-like carmine bee-eaters, and with visitors often seeing multiple different leopards on a single drive.


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During the lush emerald ‘secret season’, it is possible to venture out by boat and on foot to enjoy some of the best opportunities for wildlife and landscape photography.  The following day, we were scheduled to do a foot safari ourselves.  We would venture out into the bush, all along the Luangwa River, about halfway to another Time & Tide property – Mchenja.  More about that in our blog next week.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana

10th August 2021

Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana


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Xakanaxa Camp, Botswana

What is there to be said upon one’s return from a trip to Botswana? That it was fun? Definitely. That it was educational? For sure, especially when visiting as many as 10 different camps in 12 days, as we often do on what we refer to as familiarization or more commonly ‘fam’ trips. That it was exciting? But of course. A safari is all about excitement, anticipation, even a glimpse of danger when you find yourself within spitting distance of some of the largest and most powerful mammals in the world. It is exhilarating, yet peaceful at the same time. Between game drives or other activities, there is ample time to relax and do (almost) nothing, perhaps gazing out over a watering hole or lounging by the pool with a book.


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It is also quiet, almost startlingly so. The absence of practically any ambient noise is immediately noticeable on arrival at one’s first camp. At night, it is easy to imagine hearing the swish of a shooting star, while the roaring of lions is only too real, sometimes uncomfortably close to camp. In the mornings, the absence of city noise becomes less noticeable, because this is when the bush explodes with the calls of a myriad of birds: francolins, robins, hornbills, kingfishers, louries, parrots, doves – all intent on getting an early start in yet another wonderful day in the paradise that is Northern Botswana.


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Visitors often travel to Botswana to find wildlife and come back talking about all the wonderful people they met. I can’t imagine that anyone could not be touched by the warmth, spontaneity, genuine friendliness and dignity of the Botswana people. Spend a little more time in fewer places and you are likely to make some lifelong friends!


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On his recent fam trip to Botswana, Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon found himself at Desert & Delta’s Camp Xakanaxa (‘kuh/KAHN/knee/kuh’) on the edge of the Moremi Game Reserve, in early July 2021.    “The area is cold and dry this time of the year but due to exceedingly high rainfall earlier in the season, the presence of tall grass in many areas made game-viewing more challenging than might usually be the case.


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Photo – Great Plains Conservation

The camp staff have been great to this point but Xakanaxa takes the cake.  It prides itself on being the ‘authentic’ camp.  That became evident from the word go, when we were treated to a stirring song upon our arrival.  The rooms are quite simple with a bed in front of the room, and a partitioned bathroom behind.  More than adequate though.


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I thought that the spacing between the tents on the right hand side of the entrance was a little tight.  The main area has a top notch view over the beautiful Xakanaxa Lagoon, one of the largest of its kind in Botswana.  Baboons are a problem at this camp.  At the time of my visit, the trees above the tents were fruiting so the baboons stay overnight and can make a racket.


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Our evening drive was rather quiet.  We did see some elephants, giraffes and general plains game.  The drive ended on a peaceful note at a pretty sundowner spot next to a body of water with a family of hippo.  We enjoyed some delicious grilled chicken kabobs and steaks as a snack – it almost but not quite spoiled my dinner appetite!  I think I caught a brief glimpse of a leopard as we made our way to camp after sundowners.


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Photo – Great Plains Conservation

Speaking of dinner I think it is safe to say this camp wins top marks in this category as well.  Courses included grilled chicken, chicken stuffing, lamb, mashed sweet potato, mixed veggies and a cheesecake for dessert.  The starter was some wonderful mushroom and cheese dish.  It was fun being with a group and enjoying our meals at a long table with everyone around it.


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Our final morning drive started inauspiciously but ended with a bang.  Our vehicle was just about to cross a wooden bridge when four African painted dogs appeared in front of us.  Our guide asked us to keep an eye on them as they headed to where we had come from, as he tried to reverse on the narrow bridge.


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We only briefly lost sight of them and from there the chase was on.  Both for them – and us.  It is no mean feat to try to keep up with a pack of dogs on the hunt.  We were aided by a flock of hooded vultures who followed them in hopes of stealing some scraps after a kill.  The dogs chased multiple groups of impala right in front of us.  Thrilling.  Eventually they outran us but we will all remember this day.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Montana Owl Workshop

14th May 2021

Montana Owl Workshop


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Zara Tours

Montana Owl Workshop

Not everybody measures the success of a trip to Montana by the number of owl species you get to observe and learn about. If you’re a participant in one of the long-running Charlo, Montana Owl Research Institute (ORI) Owl Workshops, you do.

Led by the redoubtable Denver Holt, North America’s foremost owl researcher, ably assisted by ORI Wildlife Biologist Beth Mendelsohn and summer intern Chloe Hernandez, we had the opportunity to learn more about the natural history of five different owl species, and to make a direct contribution to on-going field research studies conducted by the ORI.  Over the course of a 5-day long weekend which started with arrival in Missoula on a Thursday afternoon and ended on Monday morning with an early flight home, we spent a considerable amount of time in the company of these five amazing owls:  the rarely seen Northern Pygmy Owl, the more common but no less impressive Great Horned Owl, the simply incredible Short-eared Owl, the perfectly adorable Northern Saw-Whet Owl, and the undisputed stars of the weekend, a breeding pair of Great Gray Owls.


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The purpose of the ORI’s Owl Workshops is to introduce visitors to the remarkable variety and abundance of owl species in western Montana, and to involve them in research work aimed at better understanding of the behavior, breeding patterns and success of these inconspicuous animals, many of which are facing growing threats and challenges to their long-term prospects.


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YES ON NORTHERN PYGMY OWLS, NO ON LONG-EARED OWLS

On our first day in the area, having spent the previous night at the Doubletree Hotel on the edge of downtown Missoula (good running trails, beautiful river views, superb Finn restaurant), we were ready to go out in search of our first study object:  the Northern Pygmy Owl.  Aptly named, these tiny creatures – which weigh barely two to three ounces, less than a deck of cards – had been heard calling in a pine forest just outside of Missoula.  A few minutes after hearing Denver’s uncannily realistic rendition of a Pygmy Owl call, one of our party spotted the bird – it turned out to be the male – flying high through the forest.  It perched briefly at the top of a tree, then crossed a trail and settled in a tree behind us.  Denver was quick to get a powerful Nikon telescope trained on the bird, which enabled us to positively identify it and observe its distinctively striped breast, its diminutive size, relatively long tail and its conspicuous false eye marks on the back of its head.


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The objective of the outing was to identify a nesting site which we knew had to be in the immediate area, given that there was a male around.  Chloe and Beth proceeded to use a telescopic ‘peeper camera’ to peer into appropriately sized nesting holes.  The first few holes were not quite right but in attempting to insert the peeper camera into another promising looking hole, a female Northern Pygmy Owl flew out of the nest and settled nearby.  Identifying active nesting sites is of major importance so we were all quite pleased.  In order to minimize any potential stress to the female, it was decided that the researchers would return on a different day to check the nest itself.


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After lunch, we continued to a different site where we worked as a team to locate nesting sites of the Long-eared Owl.  Over the years, the number of confirmed nests of these lanky owls had ranged from zero to a record number of 15 in 2020, in the Missoula study site.  On this day, despite diligently covering several wooded draws and systematically checking for nests in thick, thorny brush, we came up empty.  No nesting Long-eared Owls.  It was disappointing to us but in its own way, of course, not finding breeding pairs tells its own story.  The owls had likely left the area some time ago, probably because there were not enough of their favored prey species which are small rodents like voles and deer mice.  

It was fascinating to observe Beth and Chloe dissecting a Long-eared Owl’s regurgitated pellet, which contained the fur and intact bones of several of these tiny rodents.


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A BEAR BEFORE CHECK-IN

A bit later in the afternoon, we headed out on Highway 93 north, our destination being the beautiful Mission Valley where the snow capped peaks of the Mission Mountains dominate every view.  At a brief stop en route, we observed a small breeding herd (there were several brown babies) of American Bisons at the National Bison Range, before making our way to our hotel for the next two nights, the Ninepipes Lodge in Charlo.


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We were just getting our stuff together to check in, when Denver glanced at his cell phone and changed plans on the fly.  “Get back in the car!”, he exclaimed.  “My neighbor just texted me that there is a bear near my house!”  So naturally off we went.  Back down Route 93 for a bit, and then left on a small country road.  Not even five minutes later, on a reservoir dam, we spotted it.  A large brown bear, which is a color variant of the black bear.  At first just loping and then scampering, it spotted our vehicle on the road and promptly entered the water in the reservoir.  Slowly but efficiently it made its way across, emerging on a small spit and walking to a dense clump of willows where it could conceal itself, at least for a while.  For us city slickers seeing a real live bear walking about in broad daylight was a pleasant surprise, a first for some of us.


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After a good dinner that evening, we went out again in search of the ground-nesting Short-eared Owls, known for their buoyant, agile flight patterns and their ‘sky-dancing’ courtship displays.  We were fortunate to find and observe a couple of them, and we returned to the area the next evening, when we had even better views of their moth-like flight.  There were a couple of males involved in an altercation of sorts, swooping over the grassy fields and displaying some powerfully acrobatic flying.  Denver got the scope on one of the Shorties which had perched on a post, enabling us to get a look at its rounded head.  Another great sighting that afternoon was a Peregrine Falcon which demonstrated its awesome speed.

Legendary Lodge


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A GLOBAL BIG BIRDING DAY AND GREAT HORNED OWLS

Despite rather cold, blustery conditions, we managed to see and identify just short of 50 species of birds as our contribution to Global Big Day, which Chloe duly reported to the E-Bird site.   The Global Big Day is an annual ‘celebration of the birds around you’ and the aim is to encourage mass participation in a worldwide bird count, even if it’s just 10 minutes of checking the species in your own backyard.  We did a bit better than that!

Our main objective for the day was to find and observe nesting sites of one of the Mission Valley’s more common owl species, the Great Horned Owl.  We were quite successful in the endeavor, finding several nests and many Great Horned Owls, some solitary, others in pairs and yet others in small family groups with the youngsters not far from the nest.


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Our lunch was enjoyed picnic-style at a scenic overlook, high on a bluff, looking down over the peculiarly aquamarine water of the strongly flowing Flathead River.  The surroundings were pure Montana and we were not at all surprised when a couple of cowboy-clad locals on horseback showed up as we were scanning a cliff-side for bird nests.

Back at the Ninepipes Lodge we enjoyed yet another fine meal in a dining room which ranks right up there at the top of my all-time ‘best views while eating’ list.  Just a drop-dead gorgeous view over a tree-lined pond with the majestic Mission Mountain range in the background.  Some fresh snow from the previous night had accumulated on the peaks and dusted the vast forest on the slopes, making it even prettier than usual.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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A SAW-WHET OWL IN THE HAND

Our final day in the Mission Valley turned out to be simply spectacular.  It started with a bang when we went out to an impressive Aspen forest tucked away in a quiet neighborhood.  Admittedly, our team of researchers from the ORI and the three of us got lucky when we found a nesting site of a Saw-Whet Owl.  Often, it can take hours of checking and knocking on dozens and even hundreds of trees to find one of these charming creatures popping its head out of a breeding cavity.  This time?  Not even five trees in, and we had a winner.

This particular female Saw-Whet Owl didn’t even wait for a proper thump on her tree, to see what was going on.  She popped her head out of the nest even as Chloe was clearing some brush from the base of the tree, getting ready to give it a whack.


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Plans were immediately and effectively put into place to position a ladder alongside the tree, a suitable net was selected, and gloves were donned.  Perhaps 15 minutes or so later,  and voila – Denver briskly and firmly trapped the tiny owl in a hand-held net.  Chloe took some photos of the nestlings – there were three youngsters in the nest – and then joined Beth on the ground to log the bird’s statistical details, age it and ring-band it. 

Keeping careful records, they inspected, measured and weighed the owl before carefully fitting the ring-band  and then it was released back into the nest.  

We were rapt observers, remarking on how the little owl seemed totally nonplussed and relaxed, being gently yet securely handled by Beth and Chloe.  

We all thought  that it would be near impossible to equal or top the excitement of the morning.  We were wrong, as the afternoon’s adventure would reveal.


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A GREAT GRAY SURPRISE

Turning off Route 93, we headed straight for the foothills of the Mission Mountains.  Bear Country.  This fact being all too evident considering that every person present – except us out-of-towners – sported a canister of bear repellent on their hips.  

A couple of miles down a mountain road which followed the contour line along an irrigation channel, we stopped inside a large pine/fir forest, proceeding on foot for another 500 meters or so, before heading into the forest proper.  

The objective this afternoon was to find a nesting site of one of the most enigmatic, rarely seen owls of North America, the spectacular Great Gray Owl.


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We were told that the Great Grays had been heard in the area we were to visit, but not yet seen.  To locate them and more importantly their nests, was of course a horse of a different color.  We were in a huge forest in a massive wilderness area.  The owls could be anywhere.  Even so, we couldn’t help getting excited.  Maybe we could get lucky.  Maybe this would be our day to actually see a Great Gray… As we worked our way deeper and deeper into the forest, occasionally having to squeeze through a gap in the vegetation or clamber over some huge fallen tree trunks, the anticipation grew.


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Appropriately and maybe somewhat predictably, everything fell into place in what seemed to be the perfect spot.  Utterly remote and private, away from any source of noise or other human intrusion, we had reached Great Gray Owl nirvana.  It was swampy and heavily overgrown in spots, yet there were some open glades as well; ideal hunting grounds for – you guessed it – Great Gray Owls.  In fact, we found ourselves in textbook Great Gray Owl habitat.  Under the expert instructions of Beth, we started checking several promising snags (essentially dead tree stumps) and hit the jackpot on snag #3.  It was the perfect height – around 20 or maybe 25 feet or so – providing safety from bears and other potential clambering predators.


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Sure enough, as we trained our binoculars on the tip of the snag, there were at least two gray fluffy balls to be seen.  Success!  Not long after, Beth spotted the female Great Gray Owl perched nearby.  Perhaps 20 minutes later (after the female had returned to the nest), we observed the male flying in and delivering a dead vole for his fast growing family.  We had seen it all!  Truly an unforgettable, once in a lifetime experience.

It was a happy band of adventurers who returned to Missoula – on Mother’s Day – for a fine farewell dinner and wrap up.  We said our goodbyes and even before we got onto the plane for the trip back to Houston the next morning, we started talking about a return trip to Montana.  Yellowstone National Park early next spring?  Why not!


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In our blog post next Friday, we will be taking a closer look at Namibia’s best known sight, the spectacular Sossusvlei red sand dunes, on the edge of the Namib Desert.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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