Botswana and South Africa March 2012

PART 1: KALAHARI PLAINS

For this trip I was fortunate enough to tag along with a good friend of mine, Adam Traweek, and some of his family on their first trip to Africa. In all there were 9 of us. It was quite a bit of fun being able to see first-hand how they enjoyed themselves. Being the experienced Africa traveler also allowed me to let them know a little bit of what to expect from many of the camps and throughout a lot of the traveling but, as usual, I wound up learning my fair share of facts and information along the way as well. All in all the combination of traveling with a good friend and getting to know his family (a great group of people) and visiting all these great camps made this one of my favorite safaris to date.

Kalahari Plains Camp
The first camp we stayed at was Kalahari Plains Camp, located in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, one of the largest in the world. It’s a beautiful mostly raised camp with a great central meeting area and very nice tents. Each room is designed to let in some wind for the hot midday siestas and there are overhead fans as well. There is the option to have a bed setup on the roof and spend the night outside which is fun because I don’t know if you will find a better night sky. The entire camp is run on solar power, very fitting for a camp in the Kalahari.

Our first morning game drive was very cool, the temperature really varies greatly from the morning to the afternoon and then once again during the evening. Like we say, always bring some warm clothes. The green season does wonders for the Kalahari and just a little bit of rain goes a long way. Foliage is plentiful and lively and this brings in a good amount of plains game, the most common being oryx and springbok with the occasional wildebeest.

As cool as it gets in the morning it gets quite hot in the afternoons. In order to combat this, take a dip in the pool. The water actually comes from the ground nearby and because of this it is quite salty but really not a big issue. Great way to cool down before a quick nap and the evening activity.

One activity that is a must when staying at Kalahari Plains Camp is the Bushman walk. Typically it is an evening activity where you go on a short walk close to camp with an authentic bushman who takes you through some of his daily routines. This was really fantastic and kept us all interested from the very start all the way through. Seeing all the tools they make, what they make them from, how they might make a small animal trap or dig for a scorpion is fascinating. The thought of carving out a living in such a desolate and dangerous area is almost impossible to comprehend but these guys have done it for ages.

Grabbing a small snack before our game drive. Easy to eat too much, especially over the course of a long safari.

I have seen honey badgers before in Zambia but not during the daytime. This area is a great place to see them, even if they’re difficult to photograph.

PART 2: TUBU TREE CAMP

Our stay at Tubu Tree Camp was the highlight of the trip. It’s a really beautiful camp in a fantastic location in the Okavango Delta. The tents are a bit nicer than at Kalahari Plains, quite spacious with an indoor and outdoor shower. The central meeting area is raised and has, among other things, great bar area, a nice swimming pool in front of the bar, and a telescope useful for spotting game. If it is your cup of tea don’t hesitate to use the telescope for some star-gazing. We were able to spot 4 of Jupiter’s moons one night. The pool, along with some fans in all the rooms really helps combat the heat which can be a nuisance during the middle of the day. During the night it cools down and I had no trouble falling asleep. There is nothing like a long day full of game drives and good food to put you in the mood for sleep.

The variation between the open grassy plains of the Kalahari is really stunning. The Delta in the green season is the picture of life, and although it makes some animals more difficult to spot they are still found in great abundance. For instance, most everyone wants to see the predators and the tough to spot animals but sometimes it is great fun to just sit back and watch a troupe of baboons go about their business for a while. They are truly endlessly interesting. Luckily for those visiting Tubu, chances are they will have the opportunity to do both. We had been cruising up and down near the runway since there was evidence of recent leopard activity and it had in fact been the last place one was spotted. It took us a little while but we managed to track her down. It is always exciting to come across such a special animal and I must say this was one of if not the best leopard viewing ever for me personally. She was laying out right in the open taking a nap and was not in the least bit upset by the presence of our vehicles. As the evening closed in on us she shook off the sleep and made her way slowly into the bush to begin the nights stalk. Since there really aren’t any other predators around in this area of the Delta the concentration of leopards is really through the roof and if you want to see this cat, Tubu is absolutely the place to be.

As a bit of a side note, be advised that there are certain special customs you will likely encounter while in Botswana. One of these is that on a single day of the week whichever camp you are in will serve a traditional dinner with traditional songs and dances for the guests. We happened to be in Tubu when that day fell. In addition, during this day it is customary for the women (including guests) to serve the first portion to the men. This is a really fun tradition that makes for a lively evening and the food, which is always fantastic, is especially delicious on these days. The food usually consists of local vegetables, a beef dish, and cooked cornmeal which is really the staple dish not only of Botswana but many southern African countries.

Of course no trip to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro outing. We had a nice morning trip around a few islands close to camp and were lucky enough to see a large herd of elephant cross from one island to another. We also got a good look at a small pod of hippo and overall the experience is pretty special being out in that clear water sitting back while your guide does all the heavy lifting. For our evening activity we decided to go check out some of the giant Baobabs in the area. It was strange for me to see them during the green season since I have become accustomed to the iconic “upside-down” root look of the tree when it is leafless. We spent quite a bit of time at Harry’s Baobab, the largest and oldest in the area. On our return trip we got a decent glimpse of a large male leopard who is apparently notoriously shy. He must have known what was coming because he didn’t stick around too long and shortly after he disappeared into the bush we were hit with our first rains. It wasn’t a huge storm and it did not last very long so not an enormous inconvenience but that is the risk you take sometimes with the green season.

The highlight of our final game drive was seeing a third leopard actually in the process of stalking some impala as we drove it. Unfortunately for her the impala must have gotten her scent because shortly after we arrived they started their alarm calls and were frantically looking in her direction. Knowing that the gig was up she scurried away to find some more unassuming prey. We were able to follow her for a period but eventually when a leopard wants to disappear it disappears. Before we took off for our final camp we got a great little behind the scenes tour of Tubu. Included in this was a look in the kitchen and storage rooms, a trip to the generator, a look at the water supply and the staff village. We got to see some of the enormous trucks they use to haul supplies and heard stories about what a tough trip it can be, especially when the water levels are still high. Imagine being stranded in your vehicle in the middle of the Okavango for a couple of days! These experiences are just a fraction of our time at Tubu and it really is a must visit destination not only in the Okavango but Botswana in general.

Before one activity we were given a small basket weaving tutorial from some kind members of the camp staff. These women spend a lot of their free time making these baskets and it helps supplement their income.

PART 3: SAVUTI

Tubu Tree Camp
Our stay at Tubu Tree Camp was the highlight of the trip. It’s a really beautiful camp in a fantastic location in the Okavango Delta. The tents are a bit nicer than at Kalahari Plains, quite spacious with an indoor and outdoor shower. The central meeting area is raised and has, among other things, a great bar area, a nice swimming pool in front of the bar, and a telescope useful for spotting game. If it is your cup of tea don’t hesitate to use the telescope for some star-gazing. We were able to spot 4 of Jupiter’s moons one night. The pool, along with some fans in all the rooms really helps combat the heat which can be a nuisance during the middle of the day. During the night it cools down and I had no trouble falling asleep. There is nothing like a long day full of game drives and good food to put you in the mood for sleep.

The variation between the open grassy plains of the Kalahari is really stunning. The Delta in the green season is the picture of life, and although it makes some animals more difficult to spot they are still found in great abundance. For instance, most everyone wants to see the predators and the tough to spot animals but sometimes it is great fun to just sit back and watch a troupe of baboons go about their business for a while. They are truly endlessly interesting. Luckily for those visiting Tubu, chances are they will have the opportunity to do both. We had been cruising up and down near the runway since there was evidence of recent leopard activity and it had in fact been the last place one was spotted. It took us a little while but we managed to track her down. It is always exciting to come across such a special animal and I must say this was one of if not the best leopard viewing ever for me personally. She was laying out right in the open taking a nap and was not in the least bit upset by the presence of our vehicles. As the evening closed in on us she shook off the sleep and made her way slowly into the bush to begin the nights stalk. Since there really aren’t any other predators around in this area of the Delta the concentration of leopards is really through the roof and if you want to see this cat, Tubu is absolutely the place to be.

As a bit of a side note, be advised that there are certain special customs you will likely encounter while in Botswana. One of these is that on a single day of the week whichever camp you are in will serve a traditional dinner with traditional songs and dances for the guests. We happened to be in Tubu when that day fell. In addition, during this day it is customary for the women (including guests) to serve the first portion to the men. This is a really fun tradition that makes for a lively evening and the food, which is always fantanstic, is especially delicious on these days. The food usually consists of local vegetables, a beef dish, and cooked cornmeal which is really the staple dish not only of Botswana but many southern African countries.

Of course no trip to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro outing. We had a nice morning trip around a few islands close to camp and were lucky enough to see a large herd of elephant cross from one island to another. We also got a good look at a small pod of hippo and overall the experience is pretty special being out in that clear water sitting back while your guide does all the heavy lifting. For our evening activity we decided to go check out some of the giant Baobabs in the area. It was strange for me to see them during the green season since I have become accustomed to the iconic “upside-down” root look of the tree when it is leafless. We spent quite a bit of time at Harry’s Baobab, the largest and oldest in the area. On our return trip we got a decent glimpse of a large male leopard who is apparently notoriously shy. He must have known what was coming because he didn’t stick around too long and shortly after he disappeared into the bush we were hit with our first rains. It wasn’t a huge storm and it did not last very long so not an enormous inconvenience but that is the risk you take sometimes with the green season.

The highlight of our final game drive was seeing a third leopard actually in the process of stalking some impala as we drove it. Unfortunately for her the impala must have gotten her scent because shortly after we arrived they started their alarm calls and were frantically looking in her direction. Knowing that the gig was up she scurried away to find some more unassuming prey. We were able to follow her for a period but eventually when a leopard wants to disappear it disappears. Before we took off for our final camp we got a great little behind the scenes tour of Tubu. Included in this was a look in the kitchen and storage rooms, a trip to the generator, a look at the water supply and the staff village. We got to see some of the enormous trucks they use to haul supplies and heard stories about what a tough trip it can be, especially when the water levels are still high. Imagine being stranded in your vehicle in the middle of the Okavango for a couple of days! These experiences are just a fraction of our time at Tubu and it really is a must visit destination not only in the Okavango but Botswana in general.

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Southern Africa November 2011

PART 1: NORTHERN BOTSWANA

Kathleen and I are just back from our recent Africa trip, which included Cape Town, Grootbos (great white shark diving), Victoria Falls, Northern Botswana and ending with a couple of days at Earth Lodge in the Sabi Sand Reserve in South Africa. We travelled with our good friends the Davidsons from Austin. It was their first trip to Africa.

Northern Botswana
As before, Northern Botswana and particularly the Okavango Delta, made for a fun and very diverse experience: we watched, learned, photographed, listened, cruised, fished and relaxed, often several of these at the same time.

Lagoon Camp
Lagoon Camp lived up to prior billing as ‘the’ wild dog camp in N. Botswana. We twice bumped into a pack of nearly 30 dogs, watching them feed on an impala and observing their strict but amiable social structure, with the pups eating first, then the alpha dogs and finally the others. Another highlight there was a large herd of buffalo, several small breeding herds of elephant and a couple of sightings of the rarely seen roan antelope. The area was clearly suffering from drought and we often spent an hour or more just driving on very bumpy, very sandy roads with little to no signs of life around. Clearly most of the animals were concentrated around the wetter areas while some – the bulk of the elephants – had already dispersed even though no substantial rain had fallen. We had a very good night time leopard sighting here too, and really enjoyed a cruise on the Kwando River on Lagoon Camp’s customized pontoon boat. Tried our hand at fishing but to no avail, it really turned out to be more of an extended cocktail hour cruise than anything else.

The new rooms at Lagoon Camp are huge and quite cool, even during a heat wave which we experienced while there, with temperatures well over 100F. The high ceiling and powerful fan combine with great effect, keeping the bedroom area remarkably comfortable. If I had any criticism about the rooms it has to do with the design; the large area behind the bed – where the bathroom would have been in a regular tent setup – is mostly wasted. It would have been better to bring the bed back another few feet. Also the outdoor (front) porch is essentially useless without some sort of cover; even a large safari umbrella will provide some shade and make it a more inviting area to sit and relax and experience an ‘Africa moment’. Also it is rather odd that the toilet looks out directly towards the indoor shower.

The food at Lagoon Camp was perfectly fine and well-prepared; dinners consisting of meat and two veggies with very good freshly baked bread, salads and plenty of pretty good house wine! Unfortunately the chef mis-interpreted my long brief about vegan food options, somehow figuring that all

I needed was a stir-fry of veggies, every time. Not quite: next time I hope they will have some sadza, beans or other legumes, a few whole grains and even some tofu on the menu.

I hope that Lagoon Camp will phase out the last few Uri game drive vehicles soon. They are very mobile and can get into thickets and bush much more effectively than any of the other vehicles (Landcruisers or Landrovers) but the negatives of cramped seating and just two rows of seats far outweigh the positives. On almost every game drive at Lagoon Camp we had 6 people in our vehicle which means that 2 persons are stuck in the dreaded middle seat. Really not acceptable.

Nxabega & Xudum Camps
We also spent some time at two Okavango Delta camps – Nxabega and Xudum – both operated by AndBeyond – and they were charming in their own way. The accommodation at Nxabega is nothing fancy – fairly basic tents – but the main area and the camp itself are amongst the nicest we have seen in Botswana. So much wildlife in and around camp; great staff, good food, and the best overall guide on the entire trip – Moffat. He is just such a charming person, always smiling and with lots of little jokes and funny comments. Really a pleasure to have him around.

There was also plenty of wildlife in the Nxabega area, particularly in the large areas which had recently been burnt in what clearly was a massive wildfire. The emerging vegetation is starting to attract lots of plains game including zebra, wildebeest, tsessebe, impala (of course) with good numbers of elephant and some buffalo to be seen as well. We also enjoyed a great sighting of a young male leopard that obligingly climbed into a tree. He is apparently known for playing with the cushions in camp, from time to time. Hopefully when they are not being used by guests.

Probably our best outing from Nxabega was a fishing trip into the permanent delta. We traveled about 20 minutes on an aluminum skiff through a winding channel – kept open mostly by hippo – until we reached the edge of the Boro channel. It was a superb spot with a large lagoon to our right, a huge drifting reed island on our left, and a line of papyrus in the distance. We were close to a heronry with several Purple Herons flying in and out – I got lucky capturing one of them in flight. But it was really all about the fishing. We had barely anchored along the reeds when the first beautiful green nembwe grabbed my Mepps spinner. For the next 90 minutes there was barely a dull moment with practically every second or third cast delivering a strike. The most amazing thing was not the beautiful setting or the superb fishing; it was the fact that there was not even one other boat within sight or hearing distance. Just us, the delta, the sky and the crystal clear water all around.

Xudum is a deluxe Okavango Delta Camp with very large split-level rooms: an air-conditioned bedroom, sunken bathroom with tub and indoor as well as outdoor shower, private plunge pool and an elevated deck for some great views over the Delta. On our day of departure a big herd of elephants were strolling right through camp – it would have been great to observe them from the deck. The expansive communal area includes a dining room, lounge/bar and open interactive kitchen, where guests are invited to participate in food preparation and cooking demonstrations. As it happened there was a professional chef present in camp for the duration of our stay, with a result that the food at Xudum was by far the best we enjoyed on the entire trip, and that says a lot, considering that we spent time at Ellerman House and Grootbos which both pride themselves on the quality of their cuisine. The range of vegan items on the item was impressive and the one was more delicious than the other, all the way from soup to veggies to legumes, tofu, lentils and beyond. For once somebody actually took note of my specific preferences, so other than the more elaborate recipes there was plain old ‘pap’ (a local version of polenta) with appropriate side dishes available both nights.

A fishing outing from Xudum was just as exciting as the previous one at Nxabega, with four of us landing a good haul of mostly three-spot tilapia as well as a few catfish and several African pike. Things almost got too exciting when we were charged by a hippo. This solitary individual had apparently just recently been ejected from his pod, and resented the sudden intrusion of our little vessel into his large pond. So without any warning signs, he stewed over it for about 5 minutes and then came straight at us, underwater, kicking up a massive ‘bow wave’ in the process. Fortunately our guide Isaiah kept his cool, starting the outboard motor without a fuss and steering a safe course to the right of the approaching behemoth.

The game-viewing at Xudum was a bit on the quiet side, although we did have some very good views of a young female leopard on the drive into camp. Xudum would be a good choice as an Okavango Delta water camp, but this is not the place to come to if you are in search of big game only. The beautiful environment and range of activities which include mokoro outings, boating and game drives certainly makes it a worthwhile destination though. The same is true of its sister camp Xaranna which if anything has an even more attractive lounge and dining room area, with large, attractive tented rooms.

Transfers to Nxabega and Xudum
Prospective visitors should be sure to check on the duration of transfers into both Nxabega and Xudum; when we were there in early November the airstrips at both of the lodges were unserviceable which necessitated very lengthy road transfers (almost 3 hours in the case of Nxabega and about half that much for Xudum) from and back to Pom Pom airstrip. This was unfortunately not mentioned to us prior to traveling, so it came as a rather rude surprise. Both camps made a special effort to break up the long transfer with a picnic stop en route, which did help. Even so we were pretty exhausted after the very long and very bumpy transfer from Nxabega to Xudum which consisted of a long drive to Pom Pom, then another 45 minutes or so to Xaranna, from there about 20 minutes by boat through the Delta (which was fun and easy) followed by another 45 minutes to Xudum Lodge. At certain times of the year much of the transfer to Xudum can be done by boat, but not when the water in the Okavango Delta is low.

As far as I am able to tell the situation with the airstrips at Nxabega and Xudum is unlikely to change for at least the next 12 months or so; it takes forever to obtain permission to build a new airstrip and to get earth-moving equipment into and out of the area is a near impossible task even in the dry season.

PART 2: THE CAPE

CAPE TOWN
Earlier during the trip we had spent several days in Cape Town and the South-western Cape. I have been visiting Cape Town regularly since the 70’s yet there is always some new facet of the city to discover. This time around the most memorable events included a delightful meal at the Opal Lounge on lower Kloof Street, a most worthwhile outing on the Cable Car to the summit of Table Mountain, a convivial and delicious dinner with friends at Baia Restaurant at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, and a day outing around the Peninsula with our Tours and Trails guide Thomas.

Ellerman House
Our first night in the Cape was spent at Ellerman House, a superb small deluxe hotel overlooking Bantry Bay on the western side of the Cape Peninsula. After two solid days of traveling it was a relief to be shown to such as huge, well-appointed room with one of the best views I have ever enjoyed in 40 years of travel. Kathleen and I wasted no time to enjoy a complimentary welcome drink on the balcony. There is nothing like an uninterrupted view of the ocean, and better yet the actual sound of waves crashing on the shoreline, to erase all thoughts of TSA inspections, airline food, passport checks and worrying about overhead luggage space. Suddenly, our most pressing priority was when to have dinner, and all we had to worry about was not to flood the bathroom. Cape Town has the most awesome water pressure of any city I’ve been to.

The rest of our short stay at Ellerman House was every bit as enjoyable as we had anticipated. Next time, we will stay longer and not plan anything for a day or two. We barely scratched the surface even though we packed in quite a lot in just a day. Fantastic food, an amazing wine list, complimentary bubbly for our anniversary and Kathleen’s birthday, enjoying the garden, the pool with a view, visiting the art gallery and perusing the many original South African works of art which adorn the entrance, hallways, formal dining room, lounge and library.

Welgelegen Guest House
The next day we reluctantly bade farewell to Ellerman House and crossed over the mountain to Welgelegen, a somewhat more modest yet no less interesting guest house in the City Bowl area. Welgelegen is a warm and friendly bed & breakfast where manager Janine really went all out to assist us and to make our stay enjoyable. Our room was of a good size and quite comfortable, although it let in too much sunlight through a stained glass window separating the room and the porch. Not conducive to sleeping in! Complimentary port and sherry was a nice touch. Breakfast was excellent too, with a nice assortment of fresh fruit, freshly baked bread, scones, assorted variety meats and cheeses and of course eggs to order with bacon and/or sausage, fresh toast and good French press coffee. Welgelegen’s best feature is its proximity to Kloof Street with its many restaurants, shops, a grocery store, and the like. We enjoyed a light lunch at Cafe Paradiso and dinner at the Opal Lounge. I would recommend the latter for anyone visiting Cape Town; it is rated as one of the top 5 restaurants in the city. We had a superb dinner there – I even had some Malva pudding (dessert) which was irresistible.

On the afternoon of our first day in Cape Town, the four of us took an enjoyable stroll down Kloof and Long Street all the way to the Company’s Garden, the Houses of Parliament, Tuynhuis (the president’s residence when in Cape Town) admiring various statues, buildings and vistas. It was a beautiful, crisp Cape day, rather chilly as Cape Town can be at any time of the year.

Peninsula Day Tour
On November 5 we were collected for a full day guided tour of the Cape Peninsula with our guide Thomas, a native of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Via Sea Point and Bantry Bay (this time looking up towards Ellerman House) we drove along the coastal route to Hout Bay where we spent half an hour or so admiring the setting. Like several other Cape area attractions, Hout Bay has become very popular with international visitors and it felt decidedly ‘touristy.

Even so, we enjoyed the break from the vehicle, watching a couple of habituated seals cavorting in the harbor. From there the road winds up and around the spectacular Chapman’s Peak Drive, one of Africa’s top scenic drives, reminiscent of portions of Big Sur in California.

Eventually we made our way past the coastal town of Kommetjie to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Here, we drove to the marker for the South-western most point of Africa, and then enjoyed a surprisingly good lunch at the restaurant at the base of the funicular which takes visitors to the viewpoint.

Our next stop was Boulders Beach where we paid an entrance fee and walked along a short boardwalk to the African Penguin viewing site. There were a few dozen penguins to be seen, several of which were in moult. Not too long ago, Boulders Beach was a popular family beach but nowadays it is the exclusive domain of the penguins. Good to see that the National Parks Board have figured out a way to cash in on the birds. Anything to help protect them.

Early the next morning, when it was still partly cloudy at the summit, we took the cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain. This is really something that every visitor to the city should do: great views over the city itself, Robben Island and surrounding areas. We spent about an hour walking around the various paths close to the upper terminus, had a cup of tea and then took the next car down. By then – it was a Saturday morning – there was a huge line of people waiting to buy tickets. So go early or better yet, purchase a ticket in advance.

Grootbos Nature Reserve, Southern Cape
By late morning we hit the N2 freeway out of Cape Town and drove to Somerset West where we turned off on the spectacular coastal route via Gordon’s Bay, Betty’s Bay and Kleinmond to Hermanus. From there it was an easy drive to Grootbos Nature Reserve, which is between the hamlet of Stanford and Gansbaai. Parts of this coastal scenic drive rival California’s fame Route 1 from Carmel to Pebble Beach. It is certainly the recommended route from Cape Town to the whale coast.

At Grootbos we soon checked into our large, luxurious bungalows, each with great views over the scenic surroundings and pretty Walker Bay. I was initially disappointed upon finding out that we had been placed in Garden Lodge, having enjoyed a really great stay at Forest Lodge in March 2010. However I am now torn between the two options.

Garden Lodge is very cozy and its family atmosphere, complete with a couple of cute young children gamboling about when we were there, is most appealing. Clearly Forest Lodge would be the best choice for honeymooners or people seeking a somewhat more elegant and private setting. The main lodge at Forest Lodge is an impressive structure with mind-blowing views over Walker Bay. However it lacks the ‘Africa’ feel of Garden Lodge with its thatch roof and supporting beams.

The rooms at both lodges (Forest and Garden) are similar; as I recall the Forest Lodge rooms are a bit bigger and have more shelf-space in the bathrooms. Dinner at Forest Lodge was superb: Grootbos is very much a ‘foodie’ destination and it is known for its haute cuisine. So many lodges in Southern Africa are way too ambitious in their cooking which invariably leads to a disappointing meal. That is not the case at Grootbos. I have yet to be served a bad meal there.

Great White Shark Cage Diving
On the morning of Nov 7 the weather was ideal for our Great White Shark diving trip. There was just a gentle breeze blowing with no white tops visible on Walker Bay when our driver from Grootbos dropped us off at the Marine Dynamics base. After a very thorough briefing and orientation, including a talk from a resident marine biologist, we were off on our shark adventure. First though we had to collect our gear consisting of a waterproof jacket, a life-preserver and most importantly a wetsuit and goggles. Then we trudged down the road towards the harbor and boarded our very new boat which can take up to 40 passengers. Altogether there were about 36 divers and spectators on board, with plenty of space to spread out on the top and regular deck, fore and aft. I found a secure spot for the 20 minute or so rather bumpy trip to Shark Alley where we dropped anchor with Dyer Island in the background.

Within 15 to 20 minutes the first Great White Sharks started to show up, slowly swimming in a circle around the boat. They have an exceptionally good sense of smell and the sardine scented oil which Marine Dynamics use to attract them (so that they don’t have to actually ‘feed’ the sharks by tossing out pieces of fish etc) was clearly having the desired effect. Soon enough, the first group of 6 or 7 divers entered the cage for their private and up close encounter with these amazing animals.

Fully grown Great White Sharks are magnificent creatures and every bit as impressive in real life as in all the documentaries, books and other media where I had previously seen them. Once in the cage myself – the first few minutes were surprisingly chilly until the water seeping into the wet suit warms up – I marveled at the power and grace of the sharks as they repeatedly made runs at a dummy seal and a big hunk of bait being dragged towards the cage. Once or twice they bumped the cage, or came so close that it elicited a series of shrieks from two Swedish girls who occupied the two spots on the far left side of the cage, next to me. With their massive jaws spread open all the way, they certainly presented an awesome sight in the old-fashioned sense of the word. However I never felt apprehensive or exposed to danger. As long as you don’t extend any digits or limbs through the edge of the cage itself, it is quite safe – the sharks are intent on catching the fake seal or taking the bait, not the spectators.

Once back in dry clothes, I enjoyed a light snack and a soda and then took some photographs from the upper deck, trying to see if I could identify the sharks as they came around and around the boat. Some of them – such as one with what appeared to be propeller gashes on its side – were easy to ID, others not so much. All in all I think all four of us agree that the shark diving out ing was probably the single most exciting event on our Africa trip. I would do it again but would take my own goggles the next time; the ones I had were pretty leaky so it was a bit of a struggle to dump out the water between every shark sighting.

Later that afternoon our Grootbos guide Billy took us to a home overlooking Walker Bay, from where we observed numerous Southern Right Whales cavorting in the bay, several of them leaping from the water in spectacular fashion, also known as breaching. I did my best but could never capture the perfect shot – the pesky whales were always breaching in a spot where I was not expecting them. Nonetheless it was a great experience and we enjoyed watching the sun set over Walker Bay, with snacks and sparkling wine turning it into a festive occasion.

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
The next morning we returned to Cape Town via a different scenic route, making a lunch stop in the quaint village of Franschoek. By late afternoon we were back in the Mother City, this time opting for the Cape Grace Hotel. We’ve spent time at this hotel on various occasions over the years; it is certainly looking very good in its recently refashioned state. We did not have time to dine at the restaurant but enjoyed cocktails in the Bascule Lounge, before dinner at Meloncino, a fun and casual Italian restaurant in the V & A Waterfront. The V & A shopping center was impeccably clean and clearly well-managed, it has an impressive array of shops ranging from small boutiques to high fashion emporia, craft stalls, high end jewelers, a host of restaurants, an aquarium and the Nelson Mandela Gateway to Robben Island. We will try to schedule a return trip to Robben Island by ferry, on our next visit to Cape Town.

Early the next morning Thomas drove us back to Cape Town airport for an SAA flight to Johannesburg, connecting with British Airways all the way to Victoria Falls.

PART 3: VICTORIA FALLS & KRUGER PARK

Victoria Falls
There was nothing smooth about our entry into Zimbabwe on this exceptionally hot day in Vic Falls in early November. Even though Kathleen and I were in the front of the line it took us the better part of 30 minutes to get a single entry visa. Our friends the Davidsons did not make it out of the un-air-conditioned arrivals hall for another 30 minutes at least. Perhaps the computerized system (not sure if they have one) was malfunctioning or someone did not show up for work but the glacial pace at which the visas were written (by hand, involving two persons) was absurd. To make matters worse we had some Brits in the line ahead of us who disagreed with the official about the cost of the visa, which wasted another 15 minutes. It really was painful.

Having collected our luggage, we were off to the Vic Falls Safari Lodge. Much as I was looking forward to the time there and as receptive as I always am to enjoy a place, rather than to complain about it, the hotel ended up being disappointing on several levels.

The accommodation was fine, in fact I really liked our split level room with a very nice separate lounge and ‘upstairs’ bedroom – both with good views over the water hole some distance in front of the lodge. However, the air-conditioning in our room did not work and it wasn’t until 7:00P (we arrived at 2:00P) that the management finally decided to put us in a different room. This one had a huge gap to the outside so the air-conditioner was humming very loudly all night, unable to cope with the deluge of hot air from outside.

Food and Beverage issues at the VFSL
My main beef with the Vic Falls Safaris concerns food and beverages. Despite the fact that I had
sent the hotel management very detailed information about my vegan dietary requirements, there
was not even a token attempt made to accommodate the many ingredients & foods mentioned.
The floridly written meat-heavy menu contained some alarming errors such as ‘centred’ incorrectly used instead of ‘scented’. As in ‘centred’ with mint or marjoram or whatever, instead of the correct ‘scented’. This kind of glaring grammatical error simply does not belong in a menu in what purports to be a 5-star establishment.

More alarming were the prices, which were simply outrageous. All food, water and drinks are massively over-priced. Someone clearly has no idea of the purchasing power of the US Dollar. If the VFSL reduced the cost of all food and beverage by 50% they would still be pricey but at least they would not be guilty of gouging to the degree that they are now. For example, 2 small green salads, a bowl of pea soup , a rum and coke plus two 12-oz bottles of water came to US$51.00! Ridiculous.

When I asked for some sadza (a local version of polenta) I was told – by the barman from whom one can order bar lunches at the Buffalo Bar – that I could only get it from the Boma restaurant. When I explained that I didn’t eat meat (the Boma is essentially a meat fest), he was still not responsive until another (female) waiter interceded. I was told that yes they could do something, but ‘we would have to find an equivalent item on the menu to charge it’. So bottom line: the VFSL was more worried about how much they could charge for some sadza (cheap maize meal) than in trying to assist a guest.

Other than the price, my food was simply no good either. The pasta dish which I ended up ordering (the closest thing to a vegan item I could find on the menu) was ghastly. It was supposed to have been infused with a pesto sauce but there was not even a trace of that very, very distinctive sauce to be found. The dish was topped with a stringy vegetable or root (it had no taste) which was totally inedible. To make the entire evening even worse, the service was glacial. We are used to slow service in Southern African restaurants but this was simply unacceptably slow, both ordering and receiving food or beverages. The end result of all this was that we ate at a different restaurant – Mama Africa’s – the following night.

No way to run a railroad
Our stay at the VFSL ended on a most unfortunate note. Despite repeated inquiries from me – I even walked down to the front desk to ask about it the day prior to our departure – the lodge never informed us of our departure time and the onus was clearly on them. We had pre-paid for a road transfer organized by the VFSL to Kasane, to connect with a flight to a camp in Botswana. So being responsible for getting us to the airport in time, one would assume that the VFSL would make the necessary inquiries regarding the flight departure time well in advance. It was never done. So on the day of departure – I had just come back from a run and was standing in my room sweating – the phone rang and I was told that our driver was there. It was 08:00A and none of us had had breakfast yet. Nor had we packed anything. We could have missed our flight, but fortunately made it with a bit of time to spare. The aggravation and panic could have been prevented though.

What is much worse, and which embarrassed me immensely, is that both my wife and I and my clients the Davidsons were forced to pay again for accommodation and transfers despite the fact that we had prepaid all of this by wire transfer previously. The front desk could ostensibly not find the wire transfer; I sent a copy of the confirmed transfer complete with tracking details a couple of days later, by e-mail. I must say that I have never experienced such incompetence on the part of any hotel management as I witnessed on the day of departure from the VFSL. We were subsequently refunded for the double payment and the VFSL also refunded 50% of the cost of the stay to each of us.

Vic Falls Excursions
We had previously arranged two excursions through the VFSL – a 30-minute helicopter flight of angels and a 2-hr sundowner cruise. I would rate the helicopter flight as a good experience, even though it was a solid 5 minutes short of the advertised 30 minutes. The pilot unfortunately concentrated mostly on the passenger in the seat to his left so that the two of us in the back righthand seats never got any really good views of the Falls. I had to shoot the pics mostly through the other window which was not ideal. Even so the view from up there beats anything from ground level; it is simply impossible to appreciate the geological passage of time from the surface. From the air, it becomes clear how the Zambezi has moved from one rocky stretch to another over the course of perhaps millions of years. There was very little water in the Zambezi and I felt sorry for anyone trying to see the Falls from the Zambia side of the river. There was absolutely not a drop of water on that side.

The two most enjoyable parts of our stay in Vic Falls was a sundowner (‘booze’) cruise on the Zambezi in the 12-seater Ra-Ikane and a stroll to the Vic Falls Hotel for high tea which was delicious and nicely presented. We should have stayed there instead. The hotel’s public areas and grounds are in impeccable condition; clearly the new management is doing something right. Likewise the Ilala Lodge, where we enjoyed a cocktail on the lawn with several colorful birds including a couple of gorgeous sunbirds flitting into and out of the herbaceous border. I can still kick myself for not having my camera along on this outing. The sundowner cruise was well worth the US$75.00 per person; we had some great views of elephants drinking, observed several pods of hippo from a safe distance, and saw a myriad different birds species perched and in flight. The snacks were ok and likewise the drinks, except that the dedicated barman was not overly keen to help us. Also the wine was really no good and not cold enough. Neither was the beer. It didn’t really matter though – we had a fine time chugging along the Zambezi – with just a little bit of imagination it could have been the African Queen.

Kruger Park – Sabi Sand Reserve
After a short overnight interlude in Johannesburg at the D’Oreale Grande Hotel (small rooms, nice breakfast, pretty garden); we spent the last two days of our Africa trip at Earth Lodge in the Sabi Sand Reserve, adjacent to the southern part of Kruger Park.

Getting to and back from Sabi Sabi was a breeze with Federal Air. The most pleasant young lady assisted us with weighing and labeling our luggage at the FedAir kiosk at ORTI, on the way out. No stress – just a great big smile and ‘have a great time’. If only all flying could be like that! We were promptly whisked away to the FedAir terminal on the other side of the airport – a 10-minute drive – where we hung around the comfortable lounge for 20 minutes or so (complimentary beverages, sandwiches and snacks available) until our ‘Flight 1’ departure was announced. In just over an hour we were on the ground at Sabi Sabi, meeting our Earth Lodge guide Brett, mostly telling him that we had dipped out on lions in Botswana. Imagine that: a week in Botswana and no lions. Had to make up for that in a hurry.

Except there was a problem: the local pride of lions – all 16 of them – had been hanging around the edge of the Sabi Sabi property and had only been seen a couple of times over the last 5 days. This was not what we wanted to hear. Kathleen and I had seen bunches of lions over the years but our friends the Davidsons had not seen any in the wild, ever. We did not want them to have to return to the USA and to be forced to reply with a big fat ‘no’ to the inevitable question: ‘Did you see lions while you were in Africa?”

So for the next two days it was all lion hunting all the time at Earth Lodge. Cutting to the chase, we did find them, but not until our last night there. It turned out to be quite an amazing sighting though, watching the 8 adult females and 8 youngsters – around 9 months – hunting in the darkness. In what might have been a bit of an ethical lapse, our spotter lit up a hare with a spotlight, and the lionesses made short thrift of it, displaying amazing agility twisting and contorting themselves in pursuit of the hapless hare, which soon ended up being carted off, screeching pathetically as it dangled from the lion’s jaws. We had witnessed a kill, but not quite the kill we had in mind.

On the morning of our departure, Brett found the lions again but of our party of 4, only Kathleen was on the vehicle. Gwen and I were both down with a stomach ailment; mine a rather nasty case of food poisoning which did not let up until the following day, despite several doses of Xifaxan. Hint: get your health professional to prescribe some Xifaxan for you on your next Africa or any third world trip. Much better to be protected than not. So as a result of not being on this outing, I do not have even a single lion photograph from this trip, a first ever!

But no matter, we saw much else besides lions at night, at Sabi Sabi. For one thing, we saw tons of white rhino, so many that we almost quit stopping for them. I had my best ever sighting of two white rhino wallowing just meters from us, in a small mudhole which barely accommodated one and a half rhinos. So it was quite comical and entertaining to see both of them utilizing it together!

Other than that, Sabi Sabi delivered a couple of great leopard sightings, some hyena, good close ups of buffalo, quite a few elephants including some tiny babies, a few giraffe, some zebra, and all the other usual suspects. Once again, the Sabi Sand Reserve lived up to its reputation as a reliable Big Five game-viewing area. Even so, three nights there would have been better than just two!

Earth Lodge
I have not yet said anything about Earth Lodge, probably because I have been savoring the best for last. The entire experience at Earth Lodge, from the moment we met our guide until the afternoon of our departure, was delightful. I had previously seen some photographs of the lodge which left me a little dubious and in truth, it does not look like much on arrival, with a large downward sloping tunnel leading one to the front entrance. But go ahead and enter and you literally step into a world of elegance, enjoyment and immaculate service. To say that the design of Earth Lodge is special or intriguing would be doing a disservice to each of those words. It simply has to be seen to be appreciated. Honestly I could have spent a couple of days just lounging around the lodge itself; both in the room and in the various nooks and crannies (nothing small about them either) in the lodge itself. The foyer, the library, the dining room, the bar area, the new ‘day bar’ dipping pool, each and every area is inviting and practically mandates investigation and experimentation. The ‘dipping bar’ is one of a kind – a place to sit at a table and sip cocktails in the middle of cool, ankle deep water. Which is exactly what we did, popping yet another bottle of sparkling wine in what turned out to be a 3-week long birthday and anniversary party.

Most remarkable is the combined effect of the massive open spaces, the dominant earth-colored walls and the striking tables, benches and objets d’art fashioned from gigantic pieces of driftwood. Stunning ? Definitely. I found that each day I experienced a new facet of the place – and I really cannot imagine getting tired of it in a hurry either. Earth Lodge does not have the greatest view in the world and for good reason. The lodge itself is the main attraction. Our dining experiences were first-class in every way, from the extensive menu selections, the food presentation, taste and service. Impeccable. A highlight was dinner in the private underground wine cellar. What a terrific spot, seated at the single most impressive table I have ever seen – it must weigh several tons!

I have the same high praise for our room at Earth Lodge; really more a suite than just a room. Kathleen and I tried out every part of it: the huge king size bed, of course, also the sitting area, the desk, outside patio with lounge chairs and the private plunge pool. Everything and every part of the room is functional – there is no wasted space. Need two more reasons why we liked the room? How about a massive tub and an outside shower. Earth Lodge is surely a 3-night minimum stay place, even 4, to allow oneself the luxury of sleeping in at least one morning, or taking an entire day off, to just appreciate the room and the lodge.

Yes I know not everybody will like it and the die-hard safari aficionados will carp about it being over the top, too much this and too much that. Most of them will say that without having spent 10 minutes there. If safari to you means a modest Meru-type tent with en-suite bathroom and sandy trail back to the lodge, that’s great too. But I wouldn’t advise knocking properties like of Earth Lodge without having tried them.

Sabi Sabi has several other lodge options (none tented) including Bush Lodge; Little Bush Lodge (I think that was my favorite) and Selati Lodge. Each with its own charm and special features. Having just briefly walked through these lodges I will reserve judgment & comment for some other time, once I’ve actually spent some time there.

Conclusion

The trip underscored several impressions built up over more than 20 years in the safari business – many of you will be familiar with these already:

* Two nights are rarely enough to do justice to any area or property.

* Transfers between camps are invariably a bit more complicated and time-consuming than one anticipates.

* Few places rival Northern Botswana’s Okavango Delta for its rare combination of wildlife, scenic beauty and delightful tented safari camps.

* For ‘Big Five’ game-viewing (elephant, rhino, lion, leopard, buffalo) the Sabi Sand Reserve adjacent to Kruger Park is the best choice.

* Victoria Falls – now that Zimbabwe is on a US$ monetary system – is totally overpriced. At the Vic Falls Safari Lodge we paid more than US$50 for 2 small salads, a bowl of pea soup and a rum and coke. My advice would be to rather spend an extra day on safari and omit Vic Falls altogether.

* October and November – essentially the last two months of the dry season in the interior – can be very harsh in Botswana, hot and dry with animals really struggling for survival. Better to travel in August or September (or even earlier in the dry season) or rather consider the ‘Green Season’ when everything is green, there are lots of baby animals around and the wildlife is thriving.

* The Southwestern Cape including Cape Town, the Cape Peninsula, the winelands and the southern Cape, is well worth including on nearly any itinerary. Popular sights such as the summit of Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, the African Penguin sanctuary at Boulders, Hout Bay Harbor and others are much more heavily visited than in years past, but for good reason. They live up to expectations.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

South Africa Trip Report March 2010

PART 1: INTRODUCTION

My March 2010 site inspection trip to South Africa was conducted in whirlwind fashion: spending one night each at 10 different properties, and covering a huge swath of South Africa’s game-rich Sabi Sand and Timbavati Reserves adjacent to Kruger Park, as well as Cape Town, Franschoek in the Cape Winelands and Grootbos in the Southern Cape.

For the first time in many years I rented a car (from Budget) and despite some misgivings about
South Africa’s notoriously bad road safety record, I was soon zipping about Pretoria and Johannesburg in a VW Polo, on the left hand side of the road. It really was not a problem getting used to drive on the ‘wrong’ side of the road – but it was unnerving to be passed by several drivers exceeding the posted speed limit by a wide margin. For would-be visitors, my advice would be to
drive sparingly and to avoid night driving, especially in urban areas. Be sure to include a GPS device with your car rental – you can save yourself lots of time – by not getting lost – and void the anxiety of finding yourself in potentially dangerous situations

On March 7, following on a short stay with family in Pretoria and attending my high school reunion, I made my way to Oliver R. Tambo Airport where I dropped off the car and put some excess luggage in storage. From there it was just a short stroll to the FedAir departure office. FedAir passengers are taken by minibus to a very comfortable lounge on the other side of the airport. Here you can relax with a soft drink or juice (complimentary) or enjoy a light snack such as a sandwich and salad or fruit, likewise no charge. Soon enough, we walked out onto the tarmac, boarded the Beechcraft 1900 and took off in an easterly direction for the Kruger Park.

MalaMala Game Reserve
First stop was MalaMala Game Reserve. Having been collected from Skukuza Airstrip (where I was offered and promptly accepted an upgrade from Main Camp to Rattray Camp), another couple and I were driven to MalaMala. I had previously spent several days at Main Camp and having sent dozens of clients there over the years, I was keen to experience the MalaMala ‘magic’ once again. There are several fancier and more expensive camps in the Sabi Sand Reserve but in terms of consistently good game-viewing MalaMala has few rivals. And so it was. From my very first game-drive (good views of rhino and then lions in a rain-storm!) the game-viewing was simply phenomenal. I had never seen so many leopards and not just glimpses of them: out in the middle of the road, strolling about and very very relaxed!

The accommodation at Rattray Camp was very luxurious. The elegantly appointed khaya was
massive with a separate lounge area, plenty of closets and of course the usual (just bigger!) his and hers bathrooms which MalaMala is known for. There’s even a wireless internet connection if you absolutely have to check Facebook… Not to mention a heated plunge pool which I did not have time to try. Most importantly, game drives at Rattray are limited to maximum 4 persons per vehicle so for a party of 4 it is like having a private vehicle.

The next day I did a site inspection at MalaMala Main Camp and I was reminded why I liked this camp so much. The camp and the surrounding grounds are attractive and spotless – perfectly maintained, green and making the best of the ideal location along the Sand River. While Main Camp’s rooms and suites are probably a bit dated compared with some of the newer camps, they are very comfortable, with plenty of space and not lacking for anything. Over the years I have been to many safari camps in several countries but MalaMala remains at the top of my list for excellent value and above all consistently excellent game-viewing. Want to go on safari but not spend endless days bumping around poor roads in search of elusive wildlife? MalaMala is the answer. Three nights here and you’ll have your fill of point-blank sightings of the so-called Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard), not to mention many other mammals and an amazing variety of birds. The rangers are knowledgeable and enthusiastic and will not only answer all your questions but will get you into the right spot at the right time for some fantastic photographs. During my short stay, the food and hospitality were of the highest standard.

PART 2: LEOPARD HILLS, SABI SAND RESERVE

From MalaMala, it was not a long drive to my second Sabi Sand property – Leopard Hills. I was immediately struck with the beauty of the surroundings. The lodge is built on a hill overlooking a natural waterhole, and it is easy to see why the original owners selected this site. The lodge was initially built with five suites, and over time, have added private heated plunge pools, a library, three more suites, a traditional Shangaan boma, gym and sala, creating a five star lodge with the finest amenities.

The rooms at Leopard Hills are certainly amongst the most impressive ones I have seen anywhere. The luxurious glass-fronted suites, complete with their own sundeck and rock plunge pool offer superb views of the African bushveld beyond. For a romantic retreat in the bush, you really can’t do much better than this. I only wish I had more time to spend in the superb main lodge – over brunch there I enjoyed the fantastic view over the country-side from the elevated position on top of the hill. The food was excellent and my vegan diet was catered for with seemingly the greatest of ease.

But of of course any Sabi Sand lodge lives or dies by its game-viewing and Leopard Hills produced big time. On our afternoon game drive we found a large pride of lions with one particularly impressive maned male. My long telephoto lens was of no use as the lions were practically right next to the vehicle! The following morning we struck the jackpot with wild dogs – literally coming upon them just seconds after they had taken down an impala. This was just the second time I had witnessed the spectacle of wild dogs feeding at close quarters and it was no less impressive than the first time. Primeval in every sense of the word. In a matter of minutes, the impala had been reduced to little more than some scattered bones.

PART 3: KINGS CAMP, TIMBAVATI RESERVE

On 09 March, a driver from Eastgate Safaris picked me up from Leopard Hills for the road transfer to the Timbavati Reserve, which is located along the central portion of Kruger Park. It was quite an interesting drive on a mix of gravel and asphalt road, through interesting terrain with the northern part of the Drakensberg escarpment in the background. At my request, we stopped at a cafe en route; I picked up a copy of the local newspaper and some candy – the one thing that is in short supply at safari camps

By early afternoon, I was settling into my very nice room at Kings Camp in the Timbavati. First as a youngster with my family and later on my own and with my wife, I had spent many a wonderful vacation in the nearby Kruger Park, with drives from Rest Camps such as Letaba and Olifants often taking us to the edge of the Timbavati. The game-viewing was always satisfying, and I still clearly recall finding lions there regularly, as well as some of the most magnificent elephants I had ever seen. On trips to the area during the 1970’s, we kept our eyes peeled for a sighting of the widely publicized white lions of the Timbavati. That was not to be. We saw plenty of lions, but no white ones. Little did I know that I would have to wait another 30 years to finally see a white lion. But I am getting ahead of myself.

Before going in search of two white lion cubs which had been sighted in the area, I had to inspect the camp. It is impressive in every sense: beautiful grounds creating a sense of space and freedom, with an elevated lounge/conference area, a very cozy bar & adjacent lounge and a dining room that opens up to the manicured lawns. Even though may stay was very short, I got the distinct impression of a very well run property, with everything ‘just so’, from the quality of the guiding to the cooking, and the house-keeping. The rooms are massive and luxuriously equipped with airconditioning, Victorian ball-and-claw bath, indoor and outdoor double shower, fully stocked minibar and private verandah. Dark tones of wood and thatch offset the natural colors of the bushveld.

Kings Camp really came into its own on the game drives with guide Morne Hamlyn. Clearly, Morne was at his happiest in the bush and his enthusiasm was great to see. It wasn’t long before we came upon our first lions and sure enough, there were two young white cubs amongst them. Amazing to see how white they really are, in comparison with the normal much more yellowish/brown lions. The blue eyes were striking. Of course these lions are not albinos, they are leucistic (reduced pigmentation) which is caused by a recessive gene. So it is a condition which occurs naturally but extremely rarely – currently the two white cubs in the Timbavati are the only two known to exist in the wild.

It was apparent that the cubs were quite thin, with some of their ribs very prominent. Morne was worried about that – apparently the cubs had not eaten solid food in several days to the inability of their pride to make a kill. Morne added that it was unusual because the pride is ruled by several extremely powerful females who can literally kill anything and who are known to regularly bring down giraffe. A couple of days after our departure from the area, I learnt that the pride had in fact taken down a giraffe so there was plenty to eat for all of them.

PART 4: TANDA TULA CAMP, TIMBAVATI

From Kings Camp it was just a short drive to nearby Tanda Tula, a really delightful tented camp. I quickly felt at home with its laid-back relaxed atmosphere. My room was a comfortable thatched East African style tent with a spacious wooden deck overlooking a dry river bed. The rooms are quite luxurious with romantic Victorian style baths and outdoor showers. The camp itself is renowned for its charming service and well informed staff. I enjoyed several delicious meals including a splendid dinner with a special vegan dish. As was the case at the other camps I visited, Tanda Tula handled my vegan dietary preference without any problems at all.

Just like at Kings Camp, the game-viewing at Tanda Tula was phenomenal. Game drives are conducted in Landrovers seating a maximum of seven people, allowing good communication with your ranger and tracker. If anything, I got even better views of the white lions on a couple of game drives from Tanda Tula. We also came across several leopards which were quite relaxed and happy to oblige for some close-up photography. On the last morning our breakfast was served in an outdoors bush venue, with chefs preparing eggs, sausages, bacon, tomato, beans, and toast on the spot. Together with fresh fruit, tea, coffee and juices, as well as various cereals it was quite a spread and a very nice touch. Tanda Tula is a secluded camp which allows traversing on 20,000 of hectares of pristine African Wilderness. With just a handful of visitors at any one time and a vehicle density of less than one per square mile, the words ‘ private, secluded and tranquil’ are very apt to describe a stay at Tanda Tula.

PART 5: SOUTH-WESTERN CAPE

On my way back from Tanda Tula to Johannesburg, I experienced my first and only travel delay of the trip. My early afternoon flight from nearby Hoedspruit Airport to Johannesburg was cancelled (no reasons given) which meant that I missed my connecting flight to Cape Town. This resulted in a very late arrival into Cape Town, making for a very short stay at the centrally located and quite pleasant Cape Town Hollow Hotel. As was my experience on previous trips to Cape Town, the water pressure in the shower was impressive. My standard room was perfectly adequate and I even found a couple of vegetarian items on the menu at the downstairs restaurant. My only gripe was the lack of parking, I happened to find a spot across the road but had to have the car moved quite early the next morning.

The next morning, I had a business meeting at the Cape Grace Hotel where I took some time to reorientate myself with the facilities and rooms at this splendid 5-star small deluxe hotel. Great location just a few minutes’ walk from the heart of the Waterfront, with good security and superb rooms, a world-class restaurant and top-notch staff. After a nice cup of rooibos tea and some scones, I set off for the nearby De Waterkant area, where I would spend the night at a new apartment in the Cape Quarter complex.

Cape Quarter Living
Situated on the penthouse level of the Cape Quarter, chic new Cape Quarter Living is city accommodation in De Waterkant at its most luxurious. My apartment was just minutes away from the city centre, the Waterfront and the Cape Town International Convention Center, with a nice view with a portion of Signal Hill in the background. The apartment interiors have a moody, warm and textured quality, accentuated by the natural timbers and stonewalls. I really liked the convenience and security of this self-contained lifestyle building including a private pool and roof-top garden. In search of something to eat for lunch, I wandered by a variety of upmarket boutique stores focused on decor, design, furniture, fashion, and food. The downstairs Spar Supermarket had an excellent variety of freshly baked goods, fruit, vegetables, pre-packed vegetarian and vegan items to go and much more, so I selected a few items including a chickpea salad and enjoyed lunch in my room.

By this time I had not run for about a week so I very much enjoyed an opportunity to go for a nice long and relaxing run from De Waterkant to the Green Point area – nice view of the new soccer stadium which since featured prominently during the World Cup Tournament – and from there along the Sea Point waterfront to the Sea Point pool where I turned around. I was surprised to see so many people out and about along the promenade – runners, walkers and bikers – but fortunately there was plenty of space for all to enjoy themselves. Dinner that night was a delightful meal with old friends in the Cape Town suburb of Claremont, with a simply stunning view of Table Mountain right from where we were enjoying our meal, next to the pool. It was disconcerting to see that just like in the suburbs of Pretoria, crime was clearly an issue here too as many of the houses also had high fences with electric sensors and other security apparatus.

The next day (13 March) I made yet another move to the Cape Cadogan boutique hotel, a lovely guest house which is well positioned in the heart of Cape Town, just a short stroll away from the vibrant Kloof Street, with its roadside cafes, restaurants and stylish bars. Table Mountain, the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront and the beaches of Camps Bay are just a short drive away. You really couldn’t ask for a better setting! It wasn’t long before I took a walk along Kloof Street, popping into a supermarket for some bottled water and fresh fruit.

The hotel has 12 luxuriously appointed en suite bedrooms that are decorated with an eclectic mix of contemporary and antique furniture using dramatic fabrics to maximum effect. From the outside the impression is definitely Victorian, perhaps ‘Bohemian chic’ gets closest to describing the total experience. I was very happy to be upgraded to the Owner’s Villa, essentially their presidential suite. The space is decorated in a similar style to the main Hotel with fabrics and textures forming a rich woven carpet where the classic old world style of Cape Town meets the new café society. The villa has everything one could want to spend several glorious days in luxury, from a private pool to a huge kitchen, upstairs master bedroom, large lounge with big TV screen (and many channels!) and so much space I was completely lost in it, as a single.

I was also taken on an inspection trip of the adjacent More Quarters, which offer combination of 1- bedroom and 2-bedroom apartment living with the service and hospitality of a hotel.

That evening, I explored a bit along nearby Long Street, which is famous as a bohemian hang out. The street is lined with many book stores, various ethnic restaurants and bars. Restaurants include African, Indian and several other ethnic restaurants. I had earlier checked happycow.net for a vegan place so I ended up at Lola’s, a funky spot that attracts a mix of young and old, locals and tourists judging by the accents. My window table along Long Street was perfect for people-watching, and I caught up on a few e-mails while waiting for my vegan curry dish. It was pretty good, as was the side-salad. Friendly waitstaff too. Long Street is culturally diverse and attracts tourists from all over the world. It has several youth hostels which provide accommodation guests from all corners of the world.

Le Quartier Français
By late morning of 14 March, I was on my way to the Cape winelands. It is not a long drive – certainly less than an hour outside of peak travel periods – from the heart of Cape Town to Franschoek, where I would spend the night at the superb Le Quartier Francais, a highly acclaimed guest house with an award-winning gourmet restaurant. Le Quartier Français is a small, privately owned auberge situated in the picturesque French Huguenot valley of Franschhoek. Emphasis is on ultimate luxury and romantic charm, combined with the priceless gift of privacy, tucked away in the center of the village. My Auberge room – there’s 10 of them overlooking a central courtyard and pool – was quite charming with a massive king size bed and soft, plush cushions and sheets. I almost took a nap, before I remembered that I wanted to do another run before dinner.

I set out from the center of the village along the main road in the direction of the Franschoek Pass, running by various restaurants, shops and other typical village establishments, a long-abandoned railroad station (the main building now also a restaurant) and then a couple more guest houses before the surroundings took on a more rural feel, with small farm-holdings and some fallow fields. It was March, which is towards the end of the dry season and fast approaching the busy harvesting season. I started up the rather steep incline at the base of the pass, but had to turn around after another half mile or so, due to there not being a shoulder to run on. Dangerous. Having run back into town, I then took a side-street which led me past another guest house which we recommend – the Ballon Rouge – up the valley slope past a water reservoir and into a nice neighborhood with some townhouses with gorgeous views over the mountains. This would not be a bad place to retire, I thought to myself. I ran on for another mile or so and when I eventually turned around, I realized that I should have brought a camera. Before me the sun was setting over the Franschoek Mountains, with the shadows slowly dragging over the village as the sun disappeared from view. I made a mental note to be back at that spot someday soon, but at sunrise, when the reverse spectacle should be even more awesome. And of course I use awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word. It was quiet and peaceful and if I did not have a dinner appointment I might have lingered much longer than I did.

On this night I had the opportunity to experience Le Quartier Francaise’ much vaunted culinary reputation, and I was not disappointed. My meal at iCi Restaurant was perfect, with a delicately seasoned soup followed by a special vegan dish which featured butternut squash. I should have kept better notes but a bit of travel fatigue was starting to set in… I do recall that the wait staff were friendly yet not intrusive, service was prompt without ever feeling rushed, and I loved the sorbet which capped a memorable meal.

Grootbos
My last stop in South Africa would be Grootbos, a property which I have used quite frequently in the past for some of my clients, always with excellent results. It was time to see for myself what made Grootbos special. The road trip there from Franschoek was very scenic, and would certainly qualify for a ‘scenic highway’ classification on any map. It winds through mountainous country before joining up with the N-2 multi-lane highway for a few ,o;es before a turn-off on the R43. From there the road descends towards the coast, winding past several interesting towns and villages including Hermanus, before one reaches the turnoff for Grootbos. A short uphill and then swing left into the drive-way, before the lodge itself looms into view. After the briefest of check-in formalities I was shown to my suite tucked into the edge of a ‘fairy tale’ milkwood forest, complete with gnarled stumps and dense cover. On the short walk between the lodge and the room, one literally enters another world, with the deep shadows and skulking yet vocal birds giving it a slightly spooky atmosphere.

The suites at Grootbos are amongst the best, if not the best of any of its kind I have seen. Built from locally hewn stone and timber, they are massive and clearly there were no corners cut in either the construction process or the fittings. Volumes of space under slate roofs are framed by glass, steel and natural brick to maximize the sweeping views across fynbos and dunes to the ocean.

The suites provide the ideal blend of privacy and supreme comfort. Each is furnished with rich textures, romantic canopy beds with the finest linen and down quilts, spacious tiled sunny bathrooms, separate lounges with cozy fireplaces, mini bars and tea & coffee making facilities.

Unfortunately I had no time to enjoy the views from my private deck but it is possible to enjoy ocean and mountain views and watch the sun disappear from the sky into the ocean. There really is no better way to experience an unforgettable day than at Grootbos!

My afternoon activity at Grootbos took the form of a nature drive, exploring the fascinating coastline between Hermanus and Gansbaai, where my guide and I stopped to inspect the Great White Shark diving operation. We made regular stops along the way at some birding hotspots, lookout points and interesting landmarks. From around Franskraal we swung inland on a country road, traversing some really pretty terrain where I saw some beautiful wildflowers, plenty of birds including some cranes and just enjoyed the pastoral surroundings.

Back at the lodge, I had just enough time for a ‘rave run’ from Forest Lodge to well past the airstrip and back, a total distance of approximately 5 miles or so. On the way back, as I was running in total silence, the sun was sinking into the Atlantic Ocean on my right. It was difficult to keep my footing as I was continuously turning my head to the right to take in the awesome spectacle. No camera could have done it justice. Even several months later now I can recall it quite clearly, the image having been imprinted in my mind’s eye forever. Dinner that evening at the dining room at Forest Lodge was fantastic, befitting a 5-star hotel. Clearly, only the freshest of locally sourced produce went into the preparation of the dishes. I went to bed tired but content, satisfied that I had visited a wide array of places and properties, but realizing that I would have to return and spend more time in order to truly enjoy everything they have to offer.

An early morning outing on my last day consisted of a nature walk along a trail to some high terrain with stunning views over the Atlantic Ocean. I learnt quite a bit about some of the native plants and trees, and marveled at the giant stumps of some of the oldest milkwood trees, many of which were destroyed in a catastrophic fire some years ago. Fortunately the area is recovering rapidly and there are few visible signs of this past calamity.

I rate Grootbos as probably the best overall luxury ‘nature lodge’ I have yet visited. It is simply impeccable in every respect, from architecture, design and location of rooms, guiding and range of activities, cuisine and conservation practices. Go there by all means!

More About Cape Town
Cape Town is a laid-back, relaxed sort of a city, a world away from the Johannesburg rat race, and first-time visitors won’t experience too big a culture shock here. A few days in Cape Town is just what you’ll need to ease into Africa, so to speak, before you tackle a safari or some such adventure further north. It may be tough to leave the city behind, though! Scenically breath-taking, with Table Mountain forming the most appealing backdrop imaginable, Cape Town offers a feast of fascinating things to do and see. Take your choice from scenic drives, tours to the nearby wine country, interesting historical monuments like the beautifully restored Castle, appealing Cape Dutch architecture & furniture, superb beaches (summer), restaurants to please every taste & pocket, the bustling Waterfront development, good hiking, biking & running opportunities, horse trails & riding, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, scuba diving, boat trips & deep-sea fishing and more.

The down-side? The weather can be so-so, especially in the winter months of June, July & August, when it’s rather cold – from 40’s F by dawn to 60’s F by 2PM- and intermittently rainy (about 3+ inches rain per month) with about 10 ‘wet’ days (with measurable rain) per month. Even so, Cape Town is like San Francisco or Seattle – worth visiting even when the weather doesn’t play along. Spring and summer, although mostly sunny & warm to hot, can be windy, and you have to experience a howling south-easterly wind which doubles up pedestrians and rocks buses to appreciate what I’m talking about. However, one soon learns to appreciate the wind as just one more facet of the incredibly varied experience that is Cape Town. A truly cosmopolitan city with its feet squarely in Africa, but with a feel that is very European.

A ‘must do’ outing in Cape Town is a ride by cable car to the top of Table Mountain for breathtaking views of the city & environs. Amongst others, one can see Robben Island where Nelson Mandela spent many years of his life as a prisoner. At the terminal station the dassies (rock hyraxes) are so tame they’ll eat right out of your hand. Conventional wisdom has it that the ‘ideal’ cable car trip is at about 1800 in summer so that all the sights can be seen in daylight, following which one can enjoy the most beautiful sunset imaginable. From November through April the cableway operates until 2130 (2230 from December to mid-January). Take the cable car ride at the first good opportunity (i.e. as soon as the weather allows). Don’t postpone it until tomorrow or the day after: Table Mountain often gets socked in (unexpectedly) and then the Cable Car operations are suspended, if you’ll pardon the pun.

The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is Cape Town’s most popular attraction, and on weekends, especially over December and early January, it is extremely crowded. With more than 40 restaurants, fast food establishments, coffee shops & taverns, you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Take your pick from Belgian through Mexican cuisine, from burgers to seafood. Leisure attractions at the Waterfront are as varied, ranging from boat trips and helicopter flights to visiting the Maritime or Fisheries Museum. The Two Oceans Aquarium is fascinating and certainly worth going a bit out of one’s way for. Shopping reigns supreme, however, and the Waterfront boasts well over 100 shops, crammed with jewelry, curios, foods & wines, books, clothing, crafts and much more. Not to be missed.

I never grow tired of visiting Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, one of the more beautiful spots on the peninsula, where some interesting birds and typical fynbos plant species such as Protea and Erica may be seen. The Cape has many hundreds of endemic plants and the area is in fact a separate Floral Kingdom, the smallest, yet richest of its kind in the world. The best time to visit the gardens is in spring (August & September), when many of the Protea species are in bloom, but there is always something to see.

When in the Cape, it is considered ‘de rigueur’ to visit Cape Point, the spot where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans purportedly meet (they actually meet at Cape Agulhas). It is a great outing, nevertheless, and in addition to some interesting birds, such as sunbirds and sugarbirds, there is a herd of bontebok, and some eland which are regularly seen. The baboons can be a nuisance. From the look-out point it is also possible to watch the fascinating spectacle of hundreds of Cape Cormorants, which breed on the cliffs, approach and leave the nesting site in a never-ending procession, while a steady trickle of Cape Gannet can be seen making their way around the Point, flying low over the water. The ruggedly beautiful Cape Point is worth a visit just for the view, which is hard to describe without resorting to clichés and hyperbole. The restaurant offers some stupendous views and it is a good choice for a light lunch. After lunch, take the funicular tram-way up to the look-out point.

To slow down the pace a bit, consider a guided walking tour of the Cape Malay quarter, including a visit to the District Six Museum, a visit to one of the colorful Malay homes (whole avenues have been declared a national monument) and ending with an interesting lunch at the Noon Gun Tearoom, high above the city. Cape Town is also a good place to experience Jewish culture. A visit to the South African Jewish Museum amply illustrates the enormous contribution South African Jews have made in the building of present day South Africa.

The downtown area has several other museums and galleries which are worth visiting, such as the South African Museum, and the South African National Gallery. Try to make time for a visit to the nearby Castle, the oldest building in the Cape, which has been meticulously restored, to see the colorful changing of the guards, but more importantly, the William Fehr Art Collection. The Grand Parade, on the west side of the Castle, is transformed into a rather funky street market on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Yet another worthwhile outing is a day-tour of the scenically beautiful Cape winelands, including lunch at a typical estate. There are no less than 10 different wine routes within easy driving distance from Cape Town, the most popular ones being the Stellenbosch and Paarl Wine Routes, as well as the Vignerons de Franschoek. The area is reminiscent of northern California’s Napa Valley, and one need not be a wine-lover to enjoy the rural landscapes. The university town of Stellenbosch, where many excellent examples of Cape Dutch architecture may be viewed, as well as the picturesque village of Franschoek, originally settled by French Huguenot immigrants in the 1680’s, should be on your itinerary. You could actually spend a night or two in either of these towns, Stellenbosch perhaps having a bit more to ‘see and do’, while Franschoek is more isolated, and in a superb natural setting.

With several days in the Cape, you certainly wouldn’t want to miss the ferry ride and tour to Robben Island. It is a most worthwhile morning or afternoon activity. Just be sure to buy your tickets early – seats are very popular and are sold on a first come first served basis. In addition to some great views of Table Mountain (coming and going), the tour offers a nice insight on the natural history of the island (watch for the introduced Chukar Partridge and endemic African Penguins, as well as some rather exotic wildlife, including fallow deer). The tour around the village is rather ho-hum, but few people will easily forget the size of Nelson Mandela’s prison cell, in the forbidding maximum security prison where he spent some 17 years of his life. It is smaller than many Americans’ walk-in closets. The guides talk with passion and sometimes even wry humor about their past dismal experiences as political prisoners on Robben Island.

A little further afield (about 2 hours by car) is the Hermanus area which has become increasingly popular as a whale-watching center (best time to see the Southern Right whales is from about June through November) and for great white shark observation and diving. The small hamlet of Gansbaai has some 6 boats which do nothing but go out evey day in season, to find the massive great white sharks and to hopefully see and photograph them breaching, every photographer’s dream shot! Best time is from May to September. It is also worthwhile to drive around Walker Bay and nearby coastal communities to explore some of the interesting small beaches and rocky outcrops, which attract a wide variety of birds and other creatures.

There are many excellent accommodation choices in Cape Town. A couple of years ago, we stayed in the elegant Cape Grace Hotel, on the Waterfront. It is definitely a good choice for someone who appreciates a typical small, deluxe hotel, with understated charm and polished, efficient service. The Cape Grace received a perfect ‘100’ score in a recent Conde Nast Traveler poll when it was voted Best Hotel in the World in its category. It has won several top hotel awards since then.

In the same category is the first class Twelve Apostles Hotel, which has a superb location with unrivalled views and away from the crowds. There is a shuttle bus which takes guests into town, or you could rent a car during your stay. The staff is charming and service excellent. The hotel is large enough to have good facilities, but still small enough to feel intimate.

Another recommended hotel is the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, which is located in the historic 1904 North Quay warehouse on Cape Town’s waterfront. It has large, luxuriously furnished bedrooms with nice views of Table Mountain and the City of Cape Town. The hotel is a past winner of the much sought-after Silver Collection Award based upon consistently high standards of service, hospitality and ambience. We stayed there previously and the hotel most definitely lived up to expectations, great views from our room! Of all the Waterfront hotels, it has the best location.

Other recommended hotels at the Waterfront include the PortsWood, Commodore, and the 5-star deluxe Table Bay Sun. In the downtown area, close to the Houses of Parliament, we have stayed at the Townhouse Hotel many times previously and enjoyed it very much. In the way of boutique hotels/ guest houses we recommend Four Rosmead in Oranjezicht as well as Welgelegen. On my most recent stay in Cape Town I spent the night in a luxury one-bedroomed apartment (Cape Quarter Living) and found it to be a very interesting alternative to a hotel. Good access to restaurants and take-out options, with a superb location in the chic, hip De Waterkant area.

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