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Victoria Falls

A Warm Welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

24th February 2025

A warm welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

Listening to and soaking up the soft gurgling of the Zambezi River at 6.30 am on a cool summer morning last December at Royal Chundu Island Lodge in Zambia was about the best start to a day I’ve had in years. Adding to the sense of serenity and calmness which a setting like that engenders were the naturally soothing sounds of birdcalls. At least five or six different birds made it patently obvious that they liked being there that morning just as much as I did. 

Few safari lodges anywhere in Africa look as good during the day as they do at night, when subtle lighting with locally made lanterns and candles can turn even a mediocre spot into a romantic getaway. Not so Royal Chundu. It looked great during the day and simply gorgeous at night. A lasting impression was the complete absence of distracting or otherwise bothering sounds. I heard the water – and the birds. And nothing else. Just the way it should be.  

Our first stop at Royal Chundu was at River Lodge which has the most extraordinarily beautiful view over a broad stretch of the Zambezi with Zimbabwe on the other side. The Zambezi may have been at a low flow stage then (early December) but it was still one heck of a river, with a massive expanse of water in front of the lodge. Following our arrival briefing (which included some lovely iced tea and a much appreciated shoulder massage) we set off by boat to Royal Chundu Island Lodge. 

With just four elegant – air-conditioned – rooms tucked into a dense stretch of riverine forest, Royal Chundu Island Lodge is a veritable escape from reality. It felt like there was nobody else around and that happened to be the case on the day. We were in that rarest of rare places, our own island paradise. Travel dreams do come true.  

A short 10-minute walk took us to a lively picnic spot overlooking a set of rapids in the Zambezi. Just for the two of us the camp had set up what amounted to an adult playground. A picnic table with a couple of hammocks, a covered outdoor grilling and serving area with a well-stocked bar, a pizza oven and a large rug with soft, comfortable cushions. The perfect spot to enjoy a short siesta, the white noise of the Zambezi creating a near irresistible somnolescent effect. 

Irresistible also describes the tantalizing array of items for lunch. Chicken pizza, vegetable pizza, freshly grilled Zambezi caught bream. Fillet of beef and grilled chicken. A mixed bean and chickpea salad with carrots, cucumber, sautéed onion, grapes, mango and nuts. We gave it our best shot.

Royal Chundu village visit 

There are village visits and there are village visits. The not-so-great ones make you feel like an interloper, an alien checking out a strange new world. The good ones put you at ease right away, usually because of an exceptionally good local guide. We had just such a person show us around – Edith Mushekwa. By dint of her personality and leadership role in the village, Edith made the visit fun and we quickly realized that this village had taken organic gardening to the next level. Their cooperative organic garden, for example, utilizes cow dung, ashes and leaves for soil preparation. No fertilizer or chemicals whatsoever. Crop rotation enables them to maintain soil health and avoid the buildup of pests and diseases associated with specific types of plants.  

During our casual stroll through the village, we had a fascinating introduction into the medicinal and commercial use of local trees, such as using the seeds of the mokete tree for oil. The hardwood of the same tree is also used for carving. The village produces a natural dye from the bark of the brown ivory tree. Many of the villagers carve items from redundant pieces of Zimbabwean teak.

On the boat ride back from the village we did a little birding and we we got lucky with several good birds including African skimmer, lesser jacana, pygmy geese, comb duck, African fish eagle, rock pratincole and a close-up display of a black egret ‘tenting’ its wings, a hunting technique.  

Our day – or at least the daylight portion of it – ended as peacefully as it had started,  drifting along the current of the Zambezi while being pushed by a cool breeze. It was cloudy so ‘sundowner cruise’ may not have been the best description. What it lacked in photo appeal it more than compensated with peace and quiet with not so much as another boat or even the sound of a boat anywhere. By 7 pm we were back at the jetty, ready to resume the eating safari. 

A traditional dinner 

The chef in charge of the culinary team preparing our traditional tasting menu was Chef Peter and he and his team absolutely bowled us over with the sensational range of flavors, textures, colors and aromas associated with the extensive traditional tasting menu. Relais and Chateaux properties like Royal Chundu are known for their high-quality restaurants and this meal was certainly in the ‘one-of-a-kind’ category. 

Right off the bat? A delicate veloute of Kabulangeti beans. The word means ‘small piece of blanket’ and the comfort food connection is not hard to guess. These small brownish beans tasted somewhat like black beans. Delicious. 

The second dish was dumplings with a dried fish filling; for the vegetarian in the party the chef had prepared a spinach wrap with mixed vegetable stuffing. Everything prepared from scratch and everything sourced locally. 

I skipped the meat and fish offerings but even the most ardent steak lover might have taken a second look at the array of vegetarian options:

  • Maize nshima (local version of polenta)
  • Millet nshima
  • Okra with sweet potato leaves
  • Aubergine impwa (‘egg’)
  • Spinach and ground nut melange 
  • Small local beans
  • Masembe pudding, the local take on sago pudding   

We didn’t finish everything but went to bed happy in the knowledge that none of the buffet items would go to waste.

Breakfast overlooking the Zambezi 

Our culinary exploration at Royal Chundu didn’t end with dinner. We jumped right back into it the following morning, starting with an excellent decaf Americano, with a vanilla muffin or milk scone with strawberry preserve on the side. Your choice. Not to forget the locally-made peanut butter and orange marmalade with freshly made toast. Just like at dinner, all the fresh vegetables and herbs used in the preparation of the meal were supplied by neighboring villages or regional farms. 

We really didn’t know where to start – or end – with so many choices: 

  • A fresh fruit platter with delectable watermelon, pineapple and mango 
  • Choice of two types of creamy traditional porridge or oats, served with wild honey & toasted ground nuts
  • French toast or flapjacks
  • A traditional breakfast with eggs, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms 
  • Eggs Benedict 
  • Eggs Florentine
  • A 3 egg omelette

A true community-run lodge

During an all too short site inspection at Royal Chundu River Lodge, general manager Aggie Banda filled us in on the remarkable manner in which the lodge – literally from day one when it opened in 2010 – has been community-run. Practically the entire Royal Chundu team are Zambians, including the managers. And most of the team members live in two nearby villages – Malambo and Muluka. Royal Chundu is a community-run lodge in the full sense of the word. The lodge provides training to the community, it sources its food from Zambia (mostly supplied by local fishermen and village gardens) and it supports the village gardeners through a Seed Project.   

To the extent possible, Royal Chundu looks to its own sphere for suppliers – such as seamstress work for their chitenge uniforms, cushion covers, doormats and dish covers; woodwork for their wooden doorbells; and artwork on the walls. The Royal Chundu staff have created spin-off businesses from the lodge, such as transfer services for guests as well as courier services delivering firewood and fertilizer.

Zambia in 2025 and 2026

Our short visit to Royal Chundu, which is of course on the Zambia side of the Zambezi River, reminded us that we may have been neglecting Zambia – as a safari destination – over the last few years.  

There are safari destinations which attract hundreds of thousands of visitors annually like Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. And then there’s Zambia in central Southern Africa which attracts a relative handful, by comparison. 

Zambia is a large Southern Africa country (about the size of Texas) with every bit as much diversity as Kenya or South Africa. Which says a lot. It offers a multitude of activities, scenic highlights, wildlife viewing opportunities and cultural interaction. With several new and exciting safari options in the offing for the 2025 and 2026 seasons, we will definitely be paying closer attention to Zambia. So if you ask us for a Botswana itinerary suggestion you’ll get it, but you may get a Zambia one as well! 

Our Fish Eagle Safaris team have visited Zambia regularly over the years, and we’re ready to answer any questions you may have and to suggest a couple of Zambia safari itineraries. Perhaps in combination with one or more other areas in Southern or East Africa. Please leave a message at 713-467-5222 and someone will get back to you right away, or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

Some photos courtesy Royal Chundu

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Revisiting Victoria Falls

16th January 2025

Revisiting Victoria Falls

Three things stuck with me in the aftermath of our recent two-night stay in Victoria Falls:

The Victoria Falls Hotel

It is impossible to over-romanticize the Victoria Falls Hotel. From the arched name board across the entranceway to the unassuming yet oddly regal front door with its four interior pillars, it takes just a few minutes to enter a completely different world. Stepping back into history is not a cliche here. Move from the front lobby through the central courtyard and onto the back verandah and 120 years disappear in an instant. There, right in front of you in the distance, is the enduring marvel of the famous bridge spanning the Zambezi river border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Looking exactly like it did on the day on which the first general manager of the Vic Falls Hotel – Pierre Gavuzzi – must have gazed upon it when he showed up there in the winter of 1904. Since that day, the venerable old Edwardian property has undergone one complete rebuild and many additions, improvements, refurbishments and restorations. Clearly some good decisions were made along the way as the Victoria Falls Hotel has aged into one of the world’s unquestionably great hotels. To be sure, the grande dame of the Falls looks better every time I see it. In early December last year the property and the gardens were simply sparkling. I’m happy for it and for all the lucky hotel guests who will be spending a day or two there over the next 120 years.  

The view of the Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side

My other takeaway following the recent visit? That I had forgotten how impressive the first look at the Victoria Falls can be. I think it was at lookout point #2 as our small group was being escorted to the starting point of the guided tour of the Falls. Which is, predictably, a massive statue of David Livingstone. We stopped at a clearing in the rainforest, looked slightly down and to the right and there it was. A wall of water cascading down the rocks, as vivid and impactful a demonstration of the beauty of nature as anything one could imagine. For at least a minute or two, the spectacle is so awesome, so involving, that most people just look. And stare. And then of course come the iPhones and cameras and other devices, everybody trying – and none truly succeeding – to capture the moment. You absolutely have to be there to truly appreciate it. Right? Right.

A sundowner cruise – and not too many other activities

Thirdly, some advice about activities in the Falls. Every year, there seems to be one or two new activities added to the already long list of things to do. Swimming in the rock pools right underneath the falls? Sounds like a great idea. Or maybe not. The same can be said about jumping into Devil’s Pool, the small natural rock pool right on the edge of the Falls, accessible only when the Zambezi is at low flow stage. As exhilarating an experience as it may be, it is not everybody’s cup of tea.

My best advice for your Vic Falls visit is to not overschedule it, for starters. Leave some time to just explore a bit, poke around in the village and support the local economy with a judicious purchase or two. Better yet, slow down for a cup of coffee at the Lookout Cafe – while enjoying the stupendous views over the Batoka Gorge, left and right. In the same vein, take high tea at the Vic Falls Hotel. Freshly baked scones with strawberry jam and delicate cucumber sandwiches with an endless cup of Earl Grey tea? Why not. All while training your binoculars on the people bungee jumping off the bridge. The view is priceless and the people watching on the verandah never disappoint. Just remember they’re looking at you too. It’s a spot where you can simply let time wash over you, slipping back into a simpler, more genteel era when the ‘news’ from England was at best two months old when it reached this former outpost of the empire.  

There are a couple things you’d want to schedule in Vic Falls though. The previously mentioned tour of the Falls being one of them. Of course the Falls are at their most impressive when the water in the Zambezi is at flood stage, so if you happen to be there around February to May, get ready for a truly awesome experience. Even so, a visit during the low-water season from around September through November is still worthwhile. Our recent early December visit was a case in point. On some of our previous visits many of the views were obscured by incessant spray and foam. This time around, with the Zambezi just starting to come up from its lowest flow stage, the visibility was excellent and it was possible to get some nice exposures from most of the viewpoints. With our Wild Horizons  guide Sorro (he was a jewel) leading the way, I think every one of us enjoyed the stroll along the falls, all the way out to the spot from where we watched the daredevils cavorting in Devil’s Pool. The path along the Falls is quite flat and accessible  – we saw at least one person in a wheelchair – but be sure to wear sturdy walking or running shoes or something similar. There are many uneven spots and loose-fitting sandals or flipflops are just not going to hack it. For the kids, yes. For the rest of us, no.  

Another activity which we would suggest pre-scheduling is an afternoon jet boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi. There are many options but for our guests, we book the premium Bushtracks cruise. For a little bit more money, there’s a big payoff. A small, comfortable boat with a competent skipper, not too many other guests and the seating done in lounge style with plush chairs and small couches and tables, and plenty of room. In addition to the skipper, there’s a waiter and chef on board, with several warm canapés being freshly prepared and served as you slowly traverse the waters of the Zambezi. The major advantage of the jet boat vessel being that it can negotiate shallower water than most of the other larger propeller-driven boats. 

And why a sundowner cruise, one might ask? Seeing the sun set over the Zambezi – even when it is partially obscured by clouds like it was on the most recent excursion – is always a highlight of a visit to the area. Being out on the Zambezi in a small boat amplifies the size and the impact of the river. It is massive – a veritable juggernaut bearing down on the Falls which are a couple of miles or so down-river. At about the half mile point from the Falls the cruise turns around, heading back upstream to the mooring point. Predictably, we did see some hippos, a couple of not so impressive crocodiles (go to nearby Chobe for the big monsters), several good birds, and as a bonus – an elephant swimming across the Zambezi, from Zimbabwe to Zambia. 

If you overlook the presence of the other boats – at certain times of the year there will be quite a few – a sundowner cruise is a peaceful, relaxing outing in a beautiful natural setting. There is no rush to get anywhere, no deadline other than to be stationary somewhere the moment the softly glowing sun seemingly dips into the water of the Zambezi and then disappears. As you’ll soon find out on an Africa trip, the sunsets often get better and better beyond the actual sun setting moment. The sky becomes suffused with a golden, sometimes reddish or pinkish glow which is at its best as much as 20 minutes or so after sunset. And then, suddenly, it’s dark. 

Pioneers Lodge

This time around, we spent two nights in Vic Falls at Pioneers lodge, a well-run guest lodge with its 50 rooms built around a large courtyard, facing in towards an attractive garden area with two pools, one of which is elevated on a different level. There were quite a few bird species skulking around the lush garden, some of them probably attracted by the nicely done waterfall feature. A bonus was the presence of two young fulvous whistling ducks, who apparently like to get into the pool with visitors. We didn’t mind. They are beautiful.   

Located in a quiet neighborhood a couple of miles or so from the Falls, Pioneers Lodge and its sister property Batonka Lodge offer quality air-conditioned accommodation, well-prepared meals and lots of space in the terrace, bar and restaurant areas. The Wifi was pretty decent and we all spent a bit of time catching up on email or TikTok or whatever on our cellphones. 

In addition to our tour of the Falls and the sundowner cruise, we took a cab (organized by the lodge) to the Vic Falls Hotel, walking from there to the Three Monkeys restaurant for pizza. To say that I was more than mildly surprised by the quality of the pizza – and how quickly it was turned out – would be an understatement. At US$11 and $15 respectively, the large wood-fired thin-crust Margeritha and Quattro Formaggio pan pies were not inexpensive but worth every cent.  

With daily flights from the Victoria Falls area to Nairobi in Kenya, and vice versa, it is now easier than ever before to include a few days in Vic Falls with a Kenya safari. For more information about that, please get in touch with Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service – any time of the day – at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222. 

Sunset cruise photo courtesy Bushtracks

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Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

6th April 2024

Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

There are only a handful of places in Africa which rival Mana Pools National Park in far northeastern Zimbabwe for sheer safari star power. Starting with a near perfect setting with several camps overlooking the floodplain leading down to the massive Zambezi. In the dry season the floodplain acts like a magnet for wildlife and there’s almost always something to see. Pack your binoculars. In the background? The looming Zambian escarpment, a series of craggy hills which look impossibly appropriate to the scene. Almost as if a primeval techie had photoshopped nature. It doesn’t take first-time visitors long to realize that there is something wonderfully ethereal about Mana Pools’ winterthorn (Faidherbia albida) forests. The near magical blue light which suffuses the interior of the forests transforms an already spectacular setting into something totally next level.

There’s a lot more, starting with above average to sometimes scintillating game viewing, given the presence of elephants, lions, leopards, African painted dogs, eland, waterbuck and zebra. Plus of course rafts of hippo in the Zambezi and some fine specimens of Nile crocodiles. Trolling unseen below the surface, an abundance of tiger fish, ready to grab your spoon or lure, should you be up for the challenge to take on these notoriously difficult to catch fighting fish. A hint: the tigers can be closer to the shore than you think, particularly if there’s a nice current visible. A more important hint: don’t venture too close to the edge. The tigers won’t, but the crocs may consider you fair game. 

Mix in foot safaris (Mana Pools is practically synonymous with getting out of the vehicle) and the place is heaven on earth for visitors in search of a classic Africa experience. 

If you’re still considering a summer getaway to Africa this year, you may find that Kenya and Tanzania – and all of the best camps in the private game reserves adjacent to Kruger Park in South Africa – are pretty much ‘sold out.’ You may balk at the eye-wateringly high prices of some of the northern Botswana properties. Don’t give up. Spain is not the answer. There’s still plenty of space available in Mana Pools, so give us a call at 800-513-5222 or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to talk about a safari which is going to be excellent, and which will cost you half the price of a comparable Botswana trip. Mix in a few days in Hwange National Park (nowhere better for elephants) and you’ll come back with awesome photographs and even better memories and tales to tell. Upping the value even more? Free charter flights from Harare to Mana Pools, from Mana Pools to Hwange and from Hwange to Victoria Falls, provided you add on a couple of nights at Toka Leya, a superb lodge on the Zambezi, just far enough away – upstream – from Victoria Falls. This offer is available from now until 15 Nov 2024. Itineraries need to include a minimum of either six or eight nights in specific safari camps in Zimbabwe. Details available on request.  

Better game viewing earlier in the season 

The greater part of the prime game viewing area in Zimbabwe has experienced well below average rainfall this season which means that dry-season conditions have already set in. Mid- to late May will be like mid-July to early August in a ‘regular’ year. Less vegetation with more animals concentrated around remaining sources of water such as pumped water holes in Hwange and the floodplains of the Zambezi. The dry season is notorious for delivering the best predator activity, particularly with lions but also leopards making use of the opportunity to ambush herbivores when they come to drink. In Hwange and elsewhere there will be throngs of elephants and other mammals including buffalos, giraffes and some rarely seen antelopes like sable and roan, coming to the pumped water holes, pretty much day and night.  

Significant drought conditions later in the season 

Later in the dry season – as drought conditions worsen and food becomes scarce – some of the scenes around the water holes may be intense and even harrowing. Unless there is late rain, many of the large herbivores – notably the elephants – will start to struggle and the weaker ones will succumb as the daily trek between sources of food (woodland forest) and the water holes becomes just too much. In the long run, a reduction in the overall number of elephants in particular, will be beneficial for the environment. Regrettably, it will be a harsh and tough process to witness.   

The vital role played by safari visitors

Prospective visitors can take comfort in knowing that tourism dollars are hugely important in terms of sustaining the wildlife and the communities around the safari areas. As many as one out of every ten jobs in Africa is created and sustained by tourism. On average, one person employed in the Zimbabwe tourism industry supports as many as 10 dependents. The funds generated by tourism support vital wildlife safety nets like pumped water holes in Hwange. Right now, companies like Imvelo Safaris are going flat out re-drilling boreholes to maximize their efficiency and spending money on new pumps and equipment. Money which largely comes from American and other foreign visitors.   

Imvelo Safaris are also drilling three new boreholes at three villages specifically to sustain irrigated vegetable gardens to keep people fed during the coming months. They are also ramping up their school feeding program. Little or no corn in the fields means no fresh corn for breakfast, creating a need for more funds to provide the children with a square meal. In Zimbabwe, the second school term opens at the  beginning of May. Every additional visitor will make a difference. This year, more so than in a long time. Every dollar spent or donated in the Zimbabwe safari destinations this year will provide a vital, much needed boost to the local economy, the people and the wildlife.  

Two other ways in which the people of Zimbabwe can be supported is by making a microloan to a local entrepreneur on Kiva at kiva.org, or by directly supporting the conservation and community efforts of Mark Butcher and his team at Imvelo Safaris. Imvelo’s guests have sponsored a school meal program that has provided over 4 million school meals to dozens of schools in just the past 10 years. They’ve also built teacher cottages, constructed classroom blocks, established a health clinic at Ngamo and annually they arrange a massive ‘Smile and See’ project treating thousands of dental and optical patients free of charge, with the help of a visiting team of dentists and eye doctors. Donations to all Imvelo Trust projects may be made on this site: https://www.hwangecommunityrhino.com/how-to-donate.

Incredible value

A safari of equal quality, using a similar mix of classic category tented camps in Zimbabwe is roughly half the price of a northern Botswana trip of the same duration during high season. With hardly any dropoff in terms of game viewing and diversity of habitats and activities. Not to mention equal or better professional guiding in Zimbabwe and more varied scenery. Victoria Falls being at its best through the end of May and into June, when the river is in high flow stage. The setting of the Mana Pools camps on the southern edge of the Zambezi with the massive river in front and the pretty Zambian escarpment in the background? One of the best in all of Africa. Travel before the end of May and you can take advantage of low shoulder season pricing, with rates at some of the camps being as much as 50% lower than high season prices. Include three free flights (Harare to Mana Pools, Mana Pools to Hwange and Hwange to Victoria Falls) and you’re looking at a savings of up to $1,500 per person. 

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Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

16th August 2023

Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

We visited several other properties during our recent trip in South Africa and Zimbabwe. Every one of these deserve a detailed review but we will focus on what sets them apart.

SAVANNA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE – SABI SAND

If there is a safari camp which strikes the perfect balance between creature comforts and activities (game drives mostly) this property is it. The rooms are simply exquisite and every little thing is perfect, from the snacks and drinks which are included (the variety!) to the heated plunge pool, the beautiful garden setting, the waterholes on the periphery of the camp, the dining (wow) and the outstanding staff. Did I mention the game-viewing and the guiding? Fantastic. On a morning drive, our guide Jamie and tracker Ronald expertly located a pride of lions and before we knew it, we had seen all of the Big Five mammals.  

At one stage we were watching three female lions seemingly poised to take on an adult buffalo bull with five white rhinos within view just thirty meters to the right. Not 30 minutes later we were following Ravenscourt – a simply gorgeous movie star of a leopard – as he walked in and out of a natural drainage line close to the homestead belonging to the Mackenzie family, who owns Savanna. I think I would be morally obliged to sell my camera equipment if I didn’t get a great leopard shot that morning. Stay a few days and you might find yourself dining in an old railcar dating back to the days of the Selati Railroad, or making a visit to a nearby village which is home to many of the camp staff.

LEOPARD HILLS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

This was my second visit to Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve and if anything, it was even better than the first. The stunning lounge and dining room complex overlooking the woodland and water hole, the superbly appointed rooms and the inviting library and boma complex all brought back fond memories. Our ebullient guide Justin De la Rey imparted knowledge seemingly effortlessly and displayed a well-developed sense of ethics in his careful approach to a leopard den site. Justin and his colleague, expert tracker Ronald Gumede, are a formidable pair. We will definitely be requesting them for future guests. 

The food? Next level. Every meal was outstanding, topped by a singularly memorable boma experience. Head chef Cobus Muller personally introduced the menu and every item exceeded my expectations. Boma meals often disappoint with overcooked, dry meats and mundane side dishes. Not this one. Lamb chops, pork spare ribs, oxtail stew – it was impossible to make a bad choice. The expertly prepared side dishes included traditional South African pap with a tomato sauce, potatoes in a lyonnaise style, cauliflower au gratin, corn on the cob and curried dahl. We could go back just for the food. 

LINKWASHA CAMP, HWANGE

Linkwasha is Wilderness’ flagship tented camp in Hwange National Park, located in a stunning setting of teak forest bordered by open grassland and salt pans in southern Hwange. Our two days there with guide Farai Chuma were packed with excitement as he reintroduced us to the joy and fascination of seeing a true professional wildlife guide in action. 

Always careful and safety conscious, Farai helped us find everything we had come to see, notably cheetahs. Two magnificent male cheetahs gave us the full show. Employing every trick in their playbook, they started off by demonstrating their mutual affection, cuddling up and rubbing their faces together. Which was great, but small potatoes in comparison with what came next. Following each other at about 50 meters or so, the two brothers climbed on anthills, jumped onto logs, scrambled up tree trunks and scent-marked multiple times, several times staring right into my lens. All while Farai had us lined up in just the right spot to capture the action. His knowledge of exactly which specific trees or other objects the cheetahs would use to scent mark was uncanny. We predict great things for Farai – who will hopefully complete the final phase in the process of obtaining his ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guiding license this coming December. We hope to have him guide some of our guests in future.  

MUSANGO SAFARI CAMP, LAKE KARIBA

With long-time owner and story-teller in chief Steve Edwards operating the throttle, Kathy and I and two other guests – from Germany – traversed quite a few kilometers by boat in and out of Musango Safari Camp, tucked away in a dense forest on a private island with views in every direction. Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, the Matusadona mountain range; depending on the light and the time of the day, they create a remarkably photogenic setting. To say that the experience at Musango is multi-layered is to do it a disservice. It is much more than that. By the time we had to say farewell to Steve, Robin and Graham – who is poised to continue the Musango tradition – we felt like we had hardly scratched the surface. It was only on the last day that we were introduced to Steve’s truly incredible collection of stone age tools, preserved organisms (scorpions and more) and simply stunning fossil finds. Most of which Steve had personally collected while tracking black rhinos all over Matusadona National Park.  

Rhino tracking is no longer on the list of Musango activities, but not a whole lot else has changed since Steve and his wife Wendy opened the lodge some 30 years ago.  You can still sit quietly in a special bird hide in the forest, waiting for colorful birds to hop into view, perching on a stick right above a sizable birdbath. The attractions of Lake Kariba itself haven’t changed either: sundowner outings on a covered pontoon, tiger fishing during the warmer months, a boating safari observing elephants and buffaloes & whatever else is present along the shoreline. On one morning outing along the Nyamasango river, we racked up an impressive number of bird sightings, culminating in an African fish eagle being enticed to swoop in and snatch up a fish from the surface of the water. Did I get the classic shot of the eagle with talons extended? Alas not, but Klaus – one of the German guests – did.

While we missed them during our stay, a pride of lions regularly make their way into the area close to the camp. Above all, this little slice of paradise is the ideal spot for a change of pace from bumpy safari rides. Take a seat and look out over the most gorgeous watery amphitheater stretching out to the horizon. Where at night the lights of the kapenta fisherman far away on the lake could easily be mistaken for a bridge to Zambia. Enjoy a local beverage while listening to one of Steve’s stories and appreciating his finely tuned sense of humor. And prepare yourself for the most delectable meals, served al fresco. PS. Do not pass on the starter. It would be a mistake.  

PALM RIVER HOTEL, VICTORIA FALLS

The Palm River is a brand new addition to the many hotels, guest houses and lodges populating the area close to the Falls and beyond. We give it an enthusiastic thumbs up for four reasons:  

*Its location right on the banks of the Zambezi, which practically makes it unique among all similar hotels in Vic Falls.

*The rooms. Excellent design with views toward the Zambezi, high ceilings, great lighting, ultra comfortable bed, pre-stocked minibar (included – pay for restocking only), large bathroom with good walk-in shower, double sink, plenty of storage space,  effective air-conditioning and a safe.  

*Beautiful natural garden setting with tightly cropped lawns, an easily negotiable (non-slippery) walkway, a pool just far enough away from the common area and an inviting open-air bar and dining area.

*The food. Both dinner and breakfast were delectable, as was the 3:30 pm afternoon tea. Smoked salmon on a thin piece of bread, individual carrot cake and delicious sugar cookies. A nice selection of coffee – espresso machine with several choices – and premier tea bags. 

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA, SANDTON

There have  been several major structural changes and reconfigurations at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa in Sandton since our previous visit several years ago. All of which were done quite seamlessly as the place felt very much the same. Step through the door and you immediately know you’re in a rarefied environment. The interior look and feel, the artifacts, the silky smooth check-in process; even the gracious porter who accompanied us to our room. Fairlawns is classy in a good way: not overly pretentious or avant garde, just warm and chic. Our room (#2) was spacious and comfortable with good lighting, a nice bath and pretty decent WiFi. Breakfast was excellent. Dinner was good too with the exception of one dessert choice which missed the mark. We will continue to recommend the property as a great spot to spend a couple of nights in the way of a ‘mini-holiday’ at the start or end of a safari. A place to savor an al fresco meal, lounge poolside, enjoy the highly acclaimed spa and simply relax. Want to venture out to restaurants or other attractions in the area or do some shopping? No problem. Fairlawns is less than four miles from Sandton City, one of southern Africa’s premier shopping centers.

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist


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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

I first visited Zimbabwe – when I was a senior in college – to attend a tiger fishing tournament at Charara, on Lake Kariba in 1974.  At the time Zimbabwe was still known as Rhodesia – it would gain its independence from Great Britain several years later, in 1980.  The Zimbabwe of the mid-1970’s was a very different place on many levels to what it is today.  Some things never change though and what appealed to me about Zimbabwe at the time, still holds true.  The friendliest people, ‘from the heart’ hospitality and spectacular natural beauty and wildlife, in the most African of settings imaginable.


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We first started sending our guests to Zimbabwe in the early 1990’s and I don’t think anybody has returned from there who has not had their expectations met or exceeded.  Now, 30 years later, we still rate Zimbabwe highly as an excellent ‘value for money’ destination.  I always say that it offers pretty much what Botswana does, at half the price, in the high season.  It is also an attractive proposition for the shoulder season (April & May and November).  Even so, November can be quite hot with afternoon temperatures rising well in the 90’s F.


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Right now,  Zimbabwe is an ideal safari destination because of its safety and diversity.  It is practically the only Southern Africa destination which is at Level 2 (extra caution) on the US State Department travel advisory status.  And it is getting easier to reach:  Qatar Airlines is set to launch four weekly flights from Doha into Harare, likely starting on August 6 2021.  This Boeing Dreamliner service will be via Lusaka, Zambia and will make it much easier than before to include Mana Pools in a Zimbabwe itinerary.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on Ngamo Plains March 2021

Another strong advantage which Zimbabwe has over many other safari destinations, is that it is ideal for a ‘one country’ trip, with plenty of diversity, making it possible to put together a trip of 10 days or so with an unbeatable mix of wildlife viewing, adventure activities, cultural interaction and scenery.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – canoeing on the Bomani concession

Many visitors start or end in Victoria Falls.  Usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls and perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi.  The Falls are an awesome sight in March, April and May particularly but always nice to see – any time of the year – from the main falls on the Zimbabwe side.


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Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination.  This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area.  We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two.  In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs.

Ellerman House


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So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya.  Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic Sable antelope and the equally interesting Roan antelope.  Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals.  The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other families of birds.  It is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on the Hwange railroad tracks

Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe.  Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game & African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail.  Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too.  Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis, due to the relatively high cost of flying there.  The introduction of international flights into Harare will help to offset that.  Mana Pools is known as an ideal park for foot safaris.


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Lake Kariba and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake, is yet another attractive option for inclusion in a Zimbabwe itinerary.  A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba will enhance almost any Zimbabwe trip.  Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible.  I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake, where elephants and other animals are often seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.

Legendary Lodge


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Last but not least, it’s worth considering spending some time in the Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe.  If you definitely want to see rhinos in the wild, then this is the place to include on your itinerary, before moving on to Hwange.  Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of South-eastern Utah.  It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes.  This area – which Rhodes referred to as ‘World’s View’ is spectacular, particularly at sunset.


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In our blog post next week we will take a look at a couple of Zimbabwe safari camps which we rate very highly, and have elevated to our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Little Makalolo in Hwange and Chikwenya in Mana Pools.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

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A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

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A Visit to Victoria Falls & Hwange Zimbabwe

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In late May last year, just after noon on what was a Tuesday, I stepped into a seven seater Mahindra Airvan at Saile Airstrip on the edge of the Linyanti floodplain in Northern Botswana. A click of a seatbelt and a short safety briefing later, it was time to go. The young pilot pushed the power throttle to its fully forward position, released the brakes and in less than a minute we went hurtling into the blue Botswana sky.

For me, bush flying will never get old.  With the passage of time, I have come to enjoy and appreciate it more and more, since my first ‘white-knuckle’ flight in a Cessna 206 – also in Botswana – in 1990. Over the last almost 30 years the pilots have become younger and more diverse in terms of gender and nationality, new types of aircraft have arrived on the scene, and operation and safety standards have improved.  The fun and excitement never went away.


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Bush flying has always been different. This is ‘real’ flying with a sense of immediacy, noise, speed and a tinge of danger.  All lacking from commercial flying. Even so, if you have yet to strap yourself into the seat of a single prop aircraft in which you can make eye contact with the pilot as he or she looks back right before takeoff, there is no need to be nervous. These young persons have acquired excellent flying skills, are totally safety conscious and have to be exceptionally skilled to have snagged a flying job in Botswana.  It’s a plum position.

Just over 30 minutes later we were in Kasane.  And 20 minutes later I was in a boat crossing the Chobe river into Zambia. The landing in Zambia is a bit jarring, having to negotiate one’s way along a somewhat rickety gangplank, amid industrial debris and the grimy, smelly environment of a working dockside. Thankfully the immigration process was quick and painless, taken care of by my Wilderness Safaris driver Angel.  I paid $50 for a univisa, which allows unlimited entries into Zimbabwe and Zambia for several months.


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TONGABEZI LODGE, ZAMBIA

By 2:30 p.m. I arrived at Tongabezi where the affable and efficient general manager Mark showed me around and helped me with a quick check in, almost immediately afterwards followed by a delightful lunch overlooking the Zambezi.  Which was flowing strongly.

About an hour or so later – my last mode of transport for the day being a small aluminum skiff which deposited me on a small island in the middle of the Zambezi – I had made it to my final destination of the day, Sindabezi.  Here, I would spend the night.  Sindabezi Island is remote, private and the ideal spot for someone open to new adventures.  After a peaceful night’s sleep, I woke up not to sunlight, but to a moonbeam.  I had been sleeping within sight and sound of one of Africa‘s mightiest rivers, right in front and below me.  A nearby set of rapids stirring up the most soothing white noise of all. Sleeping virtually outside with just a few light curtains between you and the great African outdoors. There’s more.  You’re attended to personally by several friendly and efficient staff members, enjoying delicious food from a varied and creative menu with lots of local options, and choosing from a huge list of included and optional activities. Being severely time limited, I opted for an afternoon sundowner cruise which was relaxing and fun, ending at a drinks stop where I met many of the guests staying at Tongabezi Lodge.  It was a most agreeable conclusion to a busy day.


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One final plus point about Sindabezi Island: good fast Wi-Fi on an island which runs on solar power.   All the lodges out there with feeble excuses about sub-par Wi-Fi service.  Take note. It can be done.

The next morning I woke up to an unusual sight. A bank of fog had formed over the surface of the Zambezi resulting in a spectacular if somewhat spooky sunrise, the sun itself and its light reflected, refracted and obscured by the fog. The photographs hardly do it justice but I took a few nonetheless.

After a super breakfast and catching up on a few emails I went back to Tongabezi Lodge for a site inspection. I was really pleased to see that both the houses and cottages at Tongabezi were fantastic and I would highly recommend the property for a Victoria Falls stay.


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Tongabezi has the most magnificent trees and gardens including an extensive vegetable and herb garden, both featuring heavily in the planning and execution of meals and drinks.

As previously alluded to, the list of included and optional activities is exhaustive, ranging from sundowner cruises to village visits to micro light flights over the falls. Tongabezi was then in the final stages of an extensive upgrade, and their large bar and lounge had been completed, with a new reception landing area.  With a new office already in place Tongabezi was looking great.  By all means go there.


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THORNTREE LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

By late morning I was dropped off at African Bush Camps’ Thorntree Lodge, on the banks of the Zambezi, inside the Zambezi National Park. This property has been setting a new high standard for deluxe boutique accommodation in the fully inclusive lodge category, with 10 beautifully designed villas, each with a large deck and private plunge pool, looking out over the Zambezi. The rooms have every feature one could wish for: air conditioning, Wi-Fi, striking glass and screens, and adequate lighting.  Each villa has a mini bar, tea and coffee making facilities, indoor and outdoor showers and an indoor tub, a large bathroom with separate enclosed toilet, a personal safe and mosquito netting.

The main area is an impressive – mostly glass enclosed – structure and there’s also a spa and gym on the large grounds.  The lodge offers a full range of activities.  The standard of hospitality which I experienced at Thorntree was exceptionally high.  My day started with a peaceful and rather quiet Zimbabwe river cruise with the Thorntree activities manager – a pleasant change of pace from the hectic pace of the previous day.


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En route to Zimbabwe that afternoon, I made an hour-long stop to observe the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side. I had done this outing approximately a year ago so I knew what to expect, with the Zambezi being in flood stage. Again it was an awesome sight to behold. While the view of the Victoria Falls from the Zambia side is not the best when the river is low – from September to about December or so – it is quite satisfactory and even spectacular when the Zambezi is running at flood or near flood stage.

In fact the closest one can get to the actual flow of the water – to experience an effect much like that of seeing Niagara Falls from the Canadian side – is a spot close to the entrance to the falls reserve, on the Zambia side. Powerful and mesmerizing. You inadvertently stop to think about the survival chances of someone going down there in a barrel. Only to conclude that the prospect of the person surviving to tell the tale is a big fat zero.

Crossing the wet and slippery Devil’s footpath bridge across a side gorge, you reach some more good view points over the eastern portion of the falls, observing the Angels’ armchair and the famous Devil’s pool, popular attractions for breathtakingly close approaches to the abyss.  Only doable when the water in the Zambezi is low.


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BATONKA GUEST LODGE

Having been driven across the Zambezi and into Zimbabwe, my first stop was the Batonka Lodge, an all-around delightful property with 16 well-equipped rooms, less than a mile away from the falls, in the residential portion of Victoria Falls town.

The rooms are spacious, effectively air-conditioned, there is Wi-Fi and even television with 10 channels. The meals were excellent. I overheard a guest complimenting the chef on a main course of pork medallions served with a caper sauce.  I concurred.  They were expertly prepared and deftly served and not unreasonably pricey by Victoria Falls standards.


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Batonka Lodge has a nice pool in a sunny spot, there are both indoor and outdoor dining options as well as some comfortable inside and outside lounge areas, and a cozy bar.

Particularly for someone who already has a couple of scheduled Vic Falls activities planned – and who does not “have“ to be within walking distance from the falls – it is a good and affordable option with no high season premium.


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GORGES LODGE, VICTORIA FALLS

After lunch that day, and a road transfer of about 35 minutes, I checked into one of the excellent tented rooms at Little Gorges, a five room tented addition to the well-established Gorges Lodge.

Gorges and Little Gorges are ideal for guests who prefer to be away from the helicopter noise and hustle and bustle of Victoria Falls town, and are keen to experience a more peaceful environment with great black eagle viewing, as well as experiencing an authentic local village and school experience.   Included in the rate is a daily round-trip transfer to Victoria Falls town for a guided tour of the falls or some other Victoria Falls activity.

My afternoon black eagle activity did not have the desired outcome which was a good photo of a black eagle in flight.  As is often the case with wildlife, it was circumstantial. A male black eagle did in fact fly right over us but I had too much lens and there were some trees in the way.  Photography issues.  I did manage to get a half decent pic of a black eagle sitting in a tree close to one of the tented rooms. Plus I had a great chat with co manager Chris, enjoyed the superb sundowners snacks and watched as the sun slowly set over Batoka gorge.  A worthwhile experience unto itself.


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Dinner at Gorges was quite enjoyable.  As before it was a tasty home style meal with a grilled steak, grilled potato and two veg plus an excellent malva pudding for dessert.

Tent number one at Little Gorges is right on the edge of the Batoka gorge with the sound of the Zambezi rushing over some rapids, creating a soothing backdrop, making it a perfectly splendid place to fall asleep. Which I promptly did after dinner. There is nothing like a solid eight hours in likely some of the cleanest air in Africa to recharge the batteries.

Breakfast at Gorges Lodge could have benefited from a little work in the way of presentation and ‘wow’ factor; and perhaps a French press instead of drip brewed coffee. Even so, the cooked breakfast was perfectly fine – no issues with that.


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VICTORIA FALLS RIVER LODGE

Rather earlier than was necessary – which caused me to forgo an activity at Gorges – I was transferred back to Victoria Falls and from there by boat from the Shearwater jetty for a pleasant 10 minute or so river trip to the Victoria Falls River Lodge.

Although brief, my stay at the Victoria Falls River Lodge was pleasant. I particularly liked the main lodge dining room area with great views over the Zambezi. The room was spacious and well equipped with an outdoor shower, indoor bathtub and plenty of space. I always appreciate adequate lighting. The food – both lunch and dinner – was a notch above the usual lodge fare.


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My afternoon activity was a Bushtracks jet-boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi, advertised as getting to within 800 meters of the falls. While I enjoyed the activity a lot, I don’t think we got closer than 1600 meter to the falls. The biggest advantage was the fact that closer to the falls, in shallower water, there were no other boats around to spoil the serenity of the area. It was only us and one other jet-boat – also from Bushtracks – in the area. We spotted quite a bit of wildlife including hippo and elephant. Plus points for Victoria Falls River Lodge were the proximity to the Zambezi, the quality of the hospitality and guiding, and also – somewhat surprisingly to me – the game-viewing in the Zambezi National Park within which the lodge is located. We had some excellent views of elephants, giraffes, zebras, waterbuck and a couple other species.  Game-viewing in the park improves as the dry season progresses.

Next stop:  Hwange National Park.  To be featured in our blog post next Friday.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

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