Ngare Sero Lodge

Serengeti Safari Camp, Ndutu

Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park is one of Africa’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries. Massive in size – dwarfing Kenya’s Masai Mara which is part of the same ecosystem – it is high on the bucket list of many travelers.  And for good reason.  There’s nothing else like it.  Its vast undulating grassy plains, interspersed with rocky outcrops, patches of woodland and forest and riverine thickets, are well-watered and support literally millions of large mammals of as many as 70 species.

It also harbors more than 500 species of birds, from heavy flightless ostriches to tiny fire-finches, a wealth of birds of prey and some of Africa’s most colorful birds such as bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and sunbirds.  Its annual wildebeest migration – when in excess of 1.5 million wildebeest move from the southern shortgrass plains of the Serengeti to the northernmost borders of the park along the Mara and Sand Rivers, as well as to the west into the Grumeti Reserve – is one of the world’s most celebrated natural phenomena.

It has only been a couple of years since my last visit to the southern Serengeti, but it couldn’t have been more different than the previous time.  As the flight from Mwiba dipped lower and turned on short finals to line up with the runway at Ndutu airstrip, I knew right away that we had found the wildebeest migration.

Sanctuary Retreats

There were clusters of wildebeest visible all over the woodland, with herds of up to several hundred, with almost as many zebras mixed in with them, occupying every open area and grassy spot.  Sporadically, they would erupt into bursts of seemingly reverberating calls, as first one and then another and eventually many started to make their loud grunting contact calls.

After I had been picked up by my guide Amos Noah from Nomad Tanzania, we went back into the woodland to closely observe the masses of wildebeest and zebra steadily making their way through the area.  They were clearly alert to our presence, staring at us momentarily before relaxing and slowly opening up a gap between themselves and the vehicle.

At times, some of them got spooked and would take off in a random direction, sometimes causing a few others to bolt as well.  

In certain spots there were almost as many zebras as wildebeest, the animals being packed together tightly.  It was not an easy scene to photograph.  Frankly, a photograph simply does not transmit the scope and drama of the event.  I did later capture some of the motion on video, but even that is a pale imitation of being there, right then.

At nearby Lake Ndutu we came upon a pride of lions.  Three of them – including one handsome male – was doing what most lions do during the day:  find a comfortable spot and sleep.  The other five had taken their sleep behavior to the next level.  We found them high up in a huge acacia tortilis tree, stretched out on thick horizontal branches, seemingly quite comfortable with their legs and tails hanging down.

Their heads were down and turned either to the left or right, changing position every now and then. In 30 years of being in the safari business, I had not seen this – ever.  Despite trying several times, I had never seen the tree-climbing lions of Lake Manyara National Park, or the ones known to do this in the Ishasha region of Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda.  Or anywhere else.

So it was a really special sighting, particularly with just one or two other vehicles around.  Ordinarily – in a non-Covid year – a sighting like this would be surrounded by a dozen or more vehicles.   Once we had observed and photographed the dozing lions – who barely acknowledged our presence – we headed back into the woodland for even more ‘migration’ photos and views.

Legendary Lodge

Next up was a big male leopard on a horizontal branch in a different tree, a couple of miles or so from the lake.  It had dragged a carcass of an impala up to the same branch.  Parking next to a vehicle with several professional photographers (we figured it out by the size of the lenses), we observed the leopard for quite a while.  Eventually we drove in another direction where we found what turned out  to be several dozen giraffes – there’s almost always more of them than you think – and a large herd of elephants.

An hour or so later, we returned to the male leopard – which had relocated to a different branch in the tree – and caught a glimpse of a shy female leopard nearby.  We saw her again on our way back to camp.  Briefly stopping, we saw her first descend a tree and then climb right back up.  Light conditions (backlit) were unfortunately rather poor that late in the afternoon, so I ended up with a couple of ‘silhouette only’ pics.  Can’t win them all.

Legendary Lodge

Soon thereafter, we arrived at Nomad Tanzania’s Serengeti Safari Camp #2.  This small mobile tented camp has 7 tents, including a family tent consisting of 2 adjoining tents.  There’s also a compact yet attractive mess tent and lounge tent with a small library, a device re-charging station and a small bar.

Villa Maua

The tented rooms are quite simple yet perfectly adequate and they retain the essence of mobile tented camping, without turning into yet another ‘luxury’ camp.  So essentially a case of ‘just enough’ and ‘not too much’…  The interior lighting isn’t great but at least you don’t have to mess with lamps or lanterns or candles.  The flush toilet takes a bit of getting used to but it beats a ‘long drop’.  Some people blanch when they hear ‘bucket shower’ but in a setting like this one, it lends an authentic touch and it is of course much more environmentally friendly than an assemblage of pipes and wells.  All I had to do was indicate when I wanted to take a shower and at the agreed time, an attendant hooked up a large container with hot water, just outside the tent.  This time around I lingered a bit too long and ran out of water before I was quite ready.  Not an issue.  Another bucket was produced in short order.

The food offerings at Serengeti Safari Camp were fresh and tasty and while there were not a huge amount of choices or options, it is definitely in the ‘solid’ category.  

What Nomad Tanzania admirably succeeds in doing, is retaining the essence of camping in the sense of staying connected with the wilderness.  You’re right in the middle of where it all happens.  I am personally never happier going to bed at night with the sounds of wildebeest contact calls and braying zebras filling the air.  We even heard – and a couple of staff members spotted it – a leopard right from the dinner table.

The Serengeti Safari Camp staff were friendly and helpful, without exception.  The guiding – by Amos Noah – was excellent.  He knew where the tree-climbing lions were, found several leopards, got me into position for some flamingo shots, and was an agreeable and fun person to be with.

After dinner – in the company of two other guests from England – I retired early and spent a peaceful night in my tent at Serengeti Safari Camp #2.  My only regret?  The brevity of the visit.  Up early the next morning, I enjoyed a hot breakfast before hitting the road once again, back to Ndutu Airstrip, off to a different spot in the southern Serengeti.

In next week’s blog:  I move a bit further south and west to Sanctuary’s Kusini camp, a luxury tented property where I was the beneficiary of exceptionally good guiding and several obliging leopards.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Ngare Sero Lodge

Mwiba Lodge, Southern Serengeti, Tanzania

On my first night at the divine Mwiba Lodge in Tanzania’s Southern Serengeti, I was thoroughly jetlagged.  And craved sleep more than anything else.  Ten minutes after retiring to my room #6, all thoughts of an early night had been banished.  There was a large soaking tub – with a generous supply of scalding hot water.  And a cozy lounge area which simply screamed:  use me!  And so began my infatuation – which I hope will blossom into a long term relationship – with this  drop dead gorgeous safari camp.

It’s easy to fall in love with Legendary Safaris’ Mwiba Lodge.  The place is impeccable from top to bottom.  Location, people, experiences.  A total of 10 rooms are perched on a rocky, boulder-strewn outcrop overlooking the Arugusinyai River.  When flowing – as it was at the time of my visit –  the water cascading over the rocks creates a soothing natural soundtrack to the place.  Occasionally interrupted with a variety of bird calls such as the loud and rather harsh Bare-faced Go-away bird to the much more mellifluous tones of a White-browed Robin-chat, a dawn chorus stalwart.

The main dining room and lounge area is an artful blend of natural material and fabrics (wood, thatch, rope, giant woven pots and linens), the actual rockface and handcrafted rock walls.   The whole of it creates a unique, intriguing setting which looks great, and works well.  Which is not always the case with safari properties where form sometimes obliterates function.

Sanctuary Retreats

Not so at Mwiba.  The open design makes for effective airflow, a giant fireplace delivers heat when needed, and the bar area with its hardwood counter and recessed lamps create an environment where you positively want to sit down and relax for a while.  Even if your beverage of choice is a ‘mocktail’ and not the real thing.  True to Mwiba form, the pineapple juice used in my virgin pina colada was freshly squeezed on the spot.

There is more.  This beautiful property also has some of the best trained staff I’ve ever encountered.  I was most impressed with the impeccable standard of hospitality – as good as any I’ve ever experienced in Africa.  Both my primary staff contacts were management material:  my guide Isaac as well as my personal waiter Bupolo.  They could not have been more professional or caring.

It is easy to see why Mwiba is considered to be the undisputed top lodge in the greater southern Serengeti region of Tanzania.  Walk into this extraordinary property and there is a pleasant surprise around every corner: a different view, design element or visual focal point. The Zanzibari entrance door, the finely crafted stone walls, the beautiful natural wood bar counter, collectors item furniture pieces, the massive thatched roof and the stunning interiors – all artfully combining into a splendid whole.

Sitting on top of a hill overlooking the Serengeti woodland, Mwiba has wide boardwalks leading to ultra-private rooms, all with beautiful views.  My room #6 was perched right on the edge of a large rock slab, with amazing views over the  Arugusinyai river and beyond.  It smacked of thoughtful design with ample packing/hanging space, a large soaking tub, a separate toilet, an outdoor shower, his and hers washbasins, a closet which lit up when opened and enough space to really spread out and get comfortable.

Food at Mwiba

The food at Mwiba was a high point of my stay.  In fact everything I tried was consistently excellent, creative and presented with flair. Chef Jonathan came out to talk to me over lunch on my first day there, mentioning that he was planning to prepare some traditional African dishes for the following evening.  I was not quite expecting it to be the banquet which it turned out to be!

Starting with ugali – essentially the local version of polenta – the spread included chapati bread, kachumbari salad, chicken and beef mishkaki (kebabs), chachandu – a particularly good chili sauce – and coconut beans which I absolutely will have to try to recreate here in Texas.  And one or two other items which I forgot to write down.  On another day we had a starter of pear and blue cheese with arugula, Beef Wellington, and lemon tarts for dessert.  All delicious.

Legendary Lodge

Activities in and around Mwiba

In addition to game drives, there’s plenty to do at Mwiba.  If you’re into cultural activities, Mwiba is known for its authentic Hadzabe experience.   Spend a morning in their world and be amazed at their stealth and agility, at the degree to which they are in tune with their environment,  and how they manage to survive largely untouched by Western civilization.

Mwiba also offers some  good walking opportunities, enabling close-up sightings and experiences on foot, without distraction or interruption.  On an overnight fly-camp outing, you can experience the freedom of being totally off the grid in the wilderness, exploring your wild side on a truly personalized experience of Africa. White sheets, a quirky warm-water bucket shower and an eco-loo complete the experience. Wi-Fi?  No.   Silence and space?  Yes.

Legendary Lodge

Right inside camp there’s a rejuvenating spa and gym and a cool wine cellar – not a bad spot for a private dinner. An expansive pool is set on a rocky outcrop overlooking a natural spring below.  In the dry season you may see some resident wildlife come to slake their thirst.  Walk in-between two massive rocks and around a corner and there is an inviting jacuzzi, seemingly carved out of the rockface, with beautiful views over the distant countryside.  Helicopter sight-seeing flights are available for side trips to Lake Eyasi or Lake Natron or beyond.

We would recommend spending at least 3 nights at Mwiba as there’s just too much to see and do, plus the lodge is perfect for re-connecting you with your inner explorer.  The one who wants to spend a bit of time around camp and not be in a vehicle 24-7…

Villa Maua

Villa Maua

Game-viewing at Mwiba

If you do decide to tie the knot with Mwiba, just remember that it is through thick and thin, in sickness and health.  So if the wildebeest migration isn’t there in January, February or March, it’s nobody’s fault.  With the migration you can be in the right place at the right time and still miss it.  Which happened on my visit.  Even though conditions were ideal, with lots of rain and plenty of grass, the wildebeest herds were further north in the Ndutu area, where I would catch up with them a couple of days later.  They had been around Mwiba just days earlier and would likely be back the following week.

Villa Maua

On our game drives in the area around the camp and further afield, we encountered good numbers of plains game, particularly zebras and giraffes.  Out on the plains we bumped into a group of 4 lions (2 females and their juvenile cubs); the two dominant males heading up the pride couldn’t have been far away.  The young cubs were seemingly fascinated by the vehicle, coming close to inspect it.  There were some elephants around as well, and the habitat in the Maswa Reserve – ideally visited on a full day outing from Mwiba – is ideal for cheetahs.  It appears to me that with as much water as there is right around Mwiba, it would also be a good dry season destination as many of the big game species like buffaloes are likely to move closer to remaining water sources then.

I would not recommend Mwiba as the only game-viewing stop on a Tanzania trip, though. It would be best to combine it with at least one more camp in the Serengeti, Tarangire or elsewhere.  Mwiba would be perfect as perhaps the first or last stop on an East African trip.  A great introduction to the area and similarly, the perfect spot to wind down a trip, enjoying the setting and the lodge itself, and of course the people.

Tsetse flies and what do to about them

There’s something else which may challenge your relationship with Mwiba:  the presence of tsetse flies.  On a warm day in the rainy season, in the thickets and bush in the general area around the camp and down to the hippo pool, you will most likely experience at least a few bites from these pesky insects which are seemingly impervious to bug repellant of any kind.  In cooler, drier weather they are not nearly as much of a nuisance.

After years of ‘running scared’ in the presence of tsetse flies, I’ve finally come to the realization that protection is the name of the game.  You simply have to cover up.  Start with a long-sleeved light-colored (white is fine) ‘fishing’ shirt.  Apparently the extremely finely woven fabric – thin as it may be – presents a significant barrier to the tsetse flies.  I did not get a single bite on my upper body or arms, alternating a Columbia Sportswear and practically identical Patagonia brand long sleeve shirt.

In addition, wear a solid long brimmed hat like a Tilley or similar with a neck flap and cover your hands – a favored target of tsetse flies – with light leather gloves.  Wear sturdy long pants (denim would work) and protect your ankles with full length gaiters. Tsetse flies almost always bite through socks and ankles are a favored target. So cover them tightly with gaiters and your battle is half won even before you leave the lodge. One more suggestion:  have a light-colored kikoi blanket ready to drape over your head and shoulders if you find yourself in a tight spot.  And don’t relax too soon when you pull into camp:  the tsetses are known to take a ride in the vehicle so give them a minute or so to disperse, before you take your hat off.  It is best to avoid black and dark blue clothing when you are in a tsetse fly area; they seem to be attracted to these colors.

In next week’s blog:  I take a very short flight to Ndutu, the epicenter of the short-grass plains of the Serengeti, in search of the wildebeest migration.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris