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Sabi Sand Reserve

Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

17th August 2023

Back to MalaMala and the Sabi Sand Reserve

We first heard the lion roaring around 9 pm on our first night at MalaMala Camp in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, just back in our room #4 after dinner, in late July. The roaring was close. How close? Close enough for the sound to easily penetrate the solid lodge wall and loud enough to be heard above water filling a tub. It was loud. 

Kathy and I looked at each other with a ‘yes that’s exactly what I think it is’ expression and dropped whatever we were doing. We have heard lions roaring in many settings over the years but it arrests us every time. More so than bird calls or hyenas cackling or zebras braying or wildebeest grunting – a lion roaring is the ultimate sound of Africa. 

We walked to the front patio door, opened it – but not all the way – and peered out into the darkness. The lion roared again, even closer. Upon momentary reflection, we thought maybe it would be just fine to listen to it from inside the room. We closed the patio door. The lion called again, several times, the last roars fading away in the distance around midnight. 

Hearing a lion roaring outside our room was a fitting start to a safari and a big ‘welcome back’ to MalaMala at the end of an exciting first day at one of our favorite camps in all of Africa. The one to which we had sent more  guests than to any other safari property over the last 25 years.

MalaMala has a certain reputation to maintain. We tell prospective visitors that it offers the most consistently good viewing of Africa’s ‘Big Five’ mammals of any of the private reserves in South Africa. How come? Location, location, location. It takes just one look at a map of the Sabi Sand Reserve to see why MalaMala is the undisputed 800-lb gorilla of safari properties in the Sabi Sand. Located just to the west of the massive Kruger Park with only the Sand River separating the two, it is ideally situated to attract and retain wildlife year-round and more so in the dry season from about May through October and November. It is then – in the dry season – that MalaMala really shines and all because of the 20 km (13 miles) of the Sand River which runs right through the property. With no other source of freshwater anywhere remotely close,  the animals are drawn to the river as bees are to nectar. Twice a day, when MalaMala’s guests set out on morning and afternoon game drives in open 4-wheel drive vehicles, the guides head to the area bordering the western edge of the river.  With predictable results. Superb game-viewing, day in and day out, week after week. 

On this particular trip,  it started right away. Driving onto the property from Kruger Mpumalanga Airport at around one in the afternoon we were not expecting much.  Simply because many of the animals are usually resting up in the shade in  the middle of the day. Just not on this day at MalaMala. Within half an hour we had seen 10 different mammal species including elephants, giraffes and a leopard. A beautiful female leopard, right by the side of the dirt track, quite unperturbed by the presence of the vehicle. 

Of course, that was just the beginning. Over the next couple of days – with our energetic female guide Steff in charge – we enjoyed several spectacular wildlife sightings and experiences.

LIONS LIONS AND MORE LIONS

At the end of our first game drive, we came upon a big pride of lions, consisting of  six adult females with no fewer than nine cubs, varying in age from four to nine months. Initially, as the sun was setting over the western bank of the Sand River, we watched the cubs playing and mock-fighting. Predictably, young lions become playful and energetic towards the end of the day, endlessly running each other down, developing incipient hunting skills, starting to assert dominance, and generally just having a royal fun time.  

By the time the pride started to walk down to and then through the shallow stream of the Sand River, Steff had alerted me to the fact that this was a special photo opportunity. “This is not the Okavango Delta,” she said. “Sabi Sand guides don’t often see lions crossing a river or wading in the water, so be sure to get a good shot of it.”  

Photographic conditions were far from ideal, to put it mildly.  There was very little in the way of ambient light, making it near impossible to avoid blurring of moving subjects – in this case the tiny lions. And their moms. Also, we had just seconds to get it right. I was happy to come away with a few decent exposures which reflect the special setting and unusual occurrence of so many cubs walking through the shallow Sand River.  

LEOPARDS – MORE THAN ONCE

The Sabi Sand Reserve and MalaMala in particular is well known as a place to see leopards. The habitat – with lots of riverine bush and leopard-friendly thickets – is ideal. Remarkably, as many as 20 to 25 different leopards are seen at MalaMala every month, which is astonishing, considering their generally furtive, elusive behavior. Just as remarkable is the extent to which these gorgeous cats are habituated to the presence of the vehicles. They carry on with their activities seemingly oblivious to the presence of the cars.  

Over the years, we have been fortunate to observe several of MalaMala’s celebrated leopards, and this time was no different. On our first morning drive there, we bumped into a female leopard with two cubs, close to the airstrip. Later that same day we observed a female who appeared to be hunting. Topping both of those sightings was seeing a powerful male leopard that very night, right in camp, not 20 meters from the edge of the verandah, walking with a female. A mating pair of leopards in camp. That’s MalaMala!  

Currently there are five or six female leopards in MalaMala with babies, a veritable creche. It’s a harsh world out there and the offspring won’t all survive, but for the remainder of this season and beyond, visitors to MalaMala can be assured of a bounty of leopards just out there, just waiting to be seen. 

AFRICAN PAINTED DOG PUPPIES AT THE DEN

African painted dogs – also known as wild dogs – are special because they are rare and endangered. Seeing them anywhere, anytime, is considered a highlight of practically any safari. So we were thrilled to learn that a painted dog denning site had been discovered at MalaMala just weeks prior to our arrival, and that a handful of visits were being made to the site each day. MalaMala – and other responsible safari  camps all over Africa – take special precautions not to unduly interfere with and disrupt the area around a den. They are careful not to make too many tracks into the site, for fear of inadvertently leading hyenas or other predators right to the spot. Initially, no vehicles are allowed at all and it is only when the puppies reach an age of about 6 weeks or so that vehicles can approach. African painted dogs usually den in one of the driest months of the year – such as June or July – and often fairly close to water. The brood size is generally from 8 to 12.

On that Sunday morning Steff drove us all the way to the northern edge of the MalaMala property, eventually making a left turn off the boundary road and bumping slowly along a rudimentary track to the den site. Expectations were high. Observing an adult painted dog as we covered the last few meters bolstered our hopes. They’re here! Peering around the site, we counted two, three and eventually all six of the adult dogs making up the pack. Fascinating and beautiful as they were, we had puppies on our minds. There was no sight of them. The minutes ticked by. We had just about reached the end of our allotted 20 minutes (den site visits are purposefully kept short) and our hopes were starting to fade.  

Then it happened. Steff repositioned the vehicle and there they were: all nine of the pups – about 6 weeks old – running around the alpha female, their little white-tipped tails wagging furiously. Spellbound, we watched as the adorable creatures pounced on each other, play-fighting and starting to establish a pecking order, even as young as they were. Yet again photographic conditions were sub-par due to the distance and surroundings – the pups were mostly obscured in the grass – but this time it really didn’t matter. We were just thrilled to be able to see and experience them.  

A RARE CHEETAH SIGHTING – AND MORE

MalaMala is many things but it is not the best place in the Sabi Sand for cheetahs. The habitat isn’t ideal – more suitable for leopards – and the competition from other predators is fierce. Cheetahs are particularly sensitive to the presence of lions and hyenas, and that is probably the main reason why they avoid the area.  

All that being said, we did get lucky with a cheetah sighting on our second day at MalaMala. Lying up under a tree right off the boundary road with an adjacent private game reserve, the male cheetah lifted its head and looked in our direction. Bingo! We always consider ourselves to be extremely fortunate to find and see cheetahs due to their scarcity, their large territories and because they tend to move in and out of areas all the time. 

We had many other memorable sightings at MalaMala over the course of our short visit, including elephants – often seen in small herds in or on the banks of the Sand River – giraffes, buffaloes, the spectacular nyala antelope, zebras, wildebeest, and several other mammals.  

Birding at MalaMala – in fact anywhere in the Sabi Sand reserve – is always rewarding. Our single best sighting was a Verreaux eagle owl, which Kathy spotted high up in a tree on our way to a lion sighting. The owl was either yawning or trying to ‘unswallow’ something when I captured an image of it with its mouth wide open. 

IMPROVED FOOD, ACCOMMODATION AND ALL-ROUND HOSPITALITY

There was a time when MalaMala was perhaps unfairly pegged as a property with great game-viewing, but with somewhat dated rooms, meals served buffet style and with drinks charged extra. Those days are long gone. Under its present community-owned management, MalaMala has undergone a significant, noticeable transformation in all things related to creature comforts. The rooms are superb, having undergone a major refashioning recently. With plenty of space and lots of light, the rooms are contemporary while retaining the ‘classic safari’ ambiance. Good interior lighting, effective air conditioning, plenty of privacy, significantly improved bathrooms with a large tub, shower and separate toilet, lots of storage space for your stuff, nice robes, well-stocked mini-bar: put it all together and you get an exceedingly comfortable, fun place to spend a few days. Slide open the doors to the verandah (just not when there’s lions roaring nearby) and there’s two chairs and a small table, all yours to enjoy the pretty view over the Sand River and any creatures which may be around.   

The food? Right off the bat, arriving late after a midday transfer from the airport, we were wowed by an excellent light lunch in the form of a garden fresh salad and a tuna sandwich. Both were delicious – and we had similar comments from a couple who arrived at about the same time as we did. None of the other meals fell short of this great first impression.  

In fact, each meal was memorable. Dinner on the first night featured carrot and ginger soup, an oxtail stew, salmon trout, and camembert in puff pastry. Brunch the following morning was – if anything – even more impressive with an a la carte line-up with as many as six ‘main course’ options ranging from a crumpet stack to a traditional safari breakfast, eggs benedict, and the special MalaMala salad. Our last night ended on a high note with the customary MalaMala boma experience, when guests are treated to an array of traditional grilled meats – fresh off the coals – and a range of side dishes and fresh salads. 

The bottom line? We’ve been sending guests to MalaMala since the 1990’s and our most recent visit will make it even easier to recommend the property. With a choice of three camps (MalaMala Camp, Sable Camp and Rattrays), the reserve caters for everyone from small groups and families to couples who desire a bit more privacy, and visitors who are keen to experience a more intimate, premier lodge. Space is already filling up fast for the high season months of 2024 so if you are thinking about a destination for next summer, don’t wait too long. Call our Houston office at 800-513-5222 or drop us a note on our website here.  

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Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

16th August 2023

Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

We visited several other properties during our recent trip in South Africa and Zimbabwe. Every one of these deserve a detailed review but we will focus on what sets them apart.

SAVANNA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE – SABI SAND

If there is a safari camp which strikes the perfect balance between creature comforts and activities (game drives mostly) this property is it. The rooms are simply exquisite and every little thing is perfect, from the snacks and drinks which are included (the variety!) to the heated plunge pool, the beautiful garden setting, the waterholes on the periphery of the camp, the dining (wow) and the outstanding staff. Did I mention the game-viewing and the guiding? Fantastic. On a morning drive, our guide Jamie and tracker Ronald expertly located a pride of lions and before we knew it, we had seen all of the Big Five mammals.  

At one stage we were watching three female lions seemingly poised to take on an adult buffalo bull with five white rhinos within view just thirty meters to the right. Not 30 minutes later we were following Ravenscourt – a simply gorgeous movie star of a leopard – as he walked in and out of a natural drainage line close to the homestead belonging to the Mackenzie family, who owns Savanna. I think I would be morally obliged to sell my camera equipment if I didn’t get a great leopard shot that morning. Stay a few days and you might find yourself dining in an old railcar dating back to the days of the Selati Railroad, or making a visit to a nearby village which is home to many of the camp staff.

LEOPARD HILLS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

This was my second visit to Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve and if anything, it was even better than the first. The stunning lounge and dining room complex overlooking the woodland and water hole, the superbly appointed rooms and the inviting library and boma complex all brought back fond memories. Our ebullient guide Justin De la Rey imparted knowledge seemingly effortlessly and displayed a well-developed sense of ethics in his careful approach to a leopard den site. Justin and his colleague, expert tracker Ronald Gumede, are a formidable pair. We will definitely be requesting them for future guests. 

The food? Next level. Every meal was outstanding, topped by a singularly memorable boma experience. Head chef Cobus Muller personally introduced the menu and every item exceeded my expectations. Boma meals often disappoint with overcooked, dry meats and mundane side dishes. Not this one. Lamb chops, pork spare ribs, oxtail stew – it was impossible to make a bad choice. The expertly prepared side dishes included traditional South African pap with a tomato sauce, potatoes in a lyonnaise style, cauliflower au gratin, corn on the cob and curried dahl. We could go back just for the food. 

LINKWASHA CAMP, HWANGE

Linkwasha is Wilderness’ flagship tented camp in Hwange National Park, located in a stunning setting of teak forest bordered by open grassland and salt pans in southern Hwange. Our two days there with guide Farai Chuma were packed with excitement as he reintroduced us to the joy and fascination of seeing a true professional wildlife guide in action. 

Always careful and safety conscious, Farai helped us find everything we had come to see, notably cheetahs. Two magnificent male cheetahs gave us the full show. Employing every trick in their playbook, they started off by demonstrating their mutual affection, cuddling up and rubbing their faces together. Which was great, but small potatoes in comparison with what came next. Following each other at about 50 meters or so, the two brothers climbed on anthills, jumped onto logs, scrambled up tree trunks and scent-marked multiple times, several times staring right into my lens. All while Farai had us lined up in just the right spot to capture the action. His knowledge of exactly which specific trees or other objects the cheetahs would use to scent mark was uncanny. We predict great things for Farai – who will hopefully complete the final phase in the process of obtaining his ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guiding license this coming December. We hope to have him guide some of our guests in future.  

MUSANGO SAFARI CAMP, LAKE KARIBA

With long-time owner and story-teller in chief Steve Edwards operating the throttle, Kathy and I and two other guests – from Germany – traversed quite a few kilometers by boat in and out of Musango Safari Camp, tucked away in a dense forest on a private island with views in every direction. Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, the Matusadona mountain range; depending on the light and the time of the day, they create a remarkably photogenic setting. To say that the experience at Musango is multi-layered is to do it a disservice. It is much more than that. By the time we had to say farewell to Steve, Robin and Graham – who is poised to continue the Musango tradition – we felt like we had hardly scratched the surface. It was only on the last day that we were introduced to Steve’s truly incredible collection of stone age tools, preserved organisms (scorpions and more) and simply stunning fossil finds. Most of which Steve had personally collected while tracking black rhinos all over Matusadona National Park.  

Rhino tracking is no longer on the list of Musango activities, but not a whole lot else has changed since Steve and his wife Wendy opened the lodge some 30 years ago.  You can still sit quietly in a special bird hide in the forest, waiting for colorful birds to hop into view, perching on a stick right above a sizable birdbath. The attractions of Lake Kariba itself haven’t changed either: sundowner outings on a covered pontoon, tiger fishing during the warmer months, a boating safari observing elephants and buffaloes & whatever else is present along the shoreline. On one morning outing along the Nyamasango river, we racked up an impressive number of bird sightings, culminating in an African fish eagle being enticed to swoop in and snatch up a fish from the surface of the water. Did I get the classic shot of the eagle with talons extended? Alas not, but Klaus – one of the German guests – did.

While we missed them during our stay, a pride of lions regularly make their way into the area close to the camp. Above all, this little slice of paradise is the ideal spot for a change of pace from bumpy safari rides. Take a seat and look out over the most gorgeous watery amphitheater stretching out to the horizon. Where at night the lights of the kapenta fisherman far away on the lake could easily be mistaken for a bridge to Zambia. Enjoy a local beverage while listening to one of Steve’s stories and appreciating his finely tuned sense of humor. And prepare yourself for the most delectable meals, served al fresco. PS. Do not pass on the starter. It would be a mistake.  

PALM RIVER HOTEL, VICTORIA FALLS

The Palm River is a brand new addition to the many hotels, guest houses and lodges populating the area close to the Falls and beyond. We give it an enthusiastic thumbs up for four reasons:  

*Its location right on the banks of the Zambezi, which practically makes it unique among all similar hotels in Vic Falls.

*The rooms. Excellent design with views toward the Zambezi, high ceilings, great lighting, ultra comfortable bed, pre-stocked minibar (included – pay for restocking only), large bathroom with good walk-in shower, double sink, plenty of storage space,  effective air-conditioning and a safe.  

*Beautiful natural garden setting with tightly cropped lawns, an easily negotiable (non-slippery) walkway, a pool just far enough away from the common area and an inviting open-air bar and dining area.

*The food. Both dinner and breakfast were delectable, as was the 3:30 pm afternoon tea. Smoked salmon on a thin piece of bread, individual carrot cake and delicious sugar cookies. A nice selection of coffee – espresso machine with several choices – and premier tea bags. 

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA, SANDTON

There have  been several major structural changes and reconfigurations at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa in Sandton since our previous visit several years ago. All of which were done quite seamlessly as the place felt very much the same. Step through the door and you immediately know you’re in a rarefied environment. The interior look and feel, the artifacts, the silky smooth check-in process; even the gracious porter who accompanied us to our room. Fairlawns is classy in a good way: not overly pretentious or avant garde, just warm and chic. Our room (#2) was spacious and comfortable with good lighting, a nice bath and pretty decent WiFi. Breakfast was excellent. Dinner was good too with the exception of one dessert choice which missed the mark. We will continue to recommend the property as a great spot to spend a couple of nights in the way of a ‘mini-holiday’ at the start or end of a safari. A place to savor an al fresco meal, lounge poolside, enjoy the highly acclaimed spa and simply relax. Want to venture out to restaurants or other attractions in the area or do some shopping? No problem. Fairlawns is less than four miles from Sandton City, one of southern Africa’s premier shopping centers.

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Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane

10th June 2021

Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane


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Photo MalaMala

Our Groundhog Day List: Part 2. MalaMala and Royal Malewane

The Greater Kruger Park area in South Africa’s north-eastern region is one of the top safari destinations in Africa.  It attracts thousands of visitors annually, mostly from South Africa and its neighboring countries, as well as from abroad.  The park itself and the many private game reserves on the western side of the park (the eastern side being the border of Mozambique) offer a huge variety of accommodation options, from camping sites to basic self-catering huts, all the way to some of the best private lodges in Africa.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Over the years, we have sampled practically every accommodation option in the greater Kruger Park area, from self-catering trips with our parents as youngsters, staying at ‘rondavel’ huts in the Park, to spending time at a couple of dozen or so private safari camps, all over the area.  We’ve also done several foot safaris inside the park, most recently a rhino walking safari in the southern part of the park.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Do we have favorites?  We do.  While we enjoy luxury and the finer things in life as much as anybody else, we tend to focus on the game-viewing experience more so than the accommodation itself, the food and beverage options and the like.  For us, a successful safari will always be judged by the quality of the game-viewing and hand-in- hand with that, the quality of the guiding.


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Photo Royal Malewane

That is why these two properties – MalaMala Game Reserve and Royal Malewane – are among the handful of Kruger Park area camps which we’ve included in our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Places which we could visit over and over again and always experience something unexpected, new and exciting.


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Photo MalaMala

MALAMALA GAME RESERVE, SABI SAND RESERVE

We have been sending our clients to MalaMala Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand area adjacent to the Kruger Park, literally for decades.  Primarily because of the consistently good game-viewing which ranks right up there with the best in Africa.  No question about it.  Day after day, month in and month out, all of the so-called ‘Big Five’ mammals and much else besides, are seen at MalaMala, and close up.  Are there better safari camps in Africa for wildlife photography?  A few that may rival it, but none that are clearly better in my opinion.

Ellerman House


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Photo MalaMala

In an area that is known for its high density of wildlife, MalaMala occupies a prime position alongside the Sand River, with miles and miles of the river running through the property.  Year round – when it hasn’t rained for a while – and consistently in the dry season from about May through Oct/Nov, the river acts as a magnet for the animals, many of them moving into the MalaMala area out of Kruger Park.  Even more so now than in earlier years because of the closure of several artificially maintained water holes in the Kruger Park.


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Photo MalaMala

Add to that a well-earned reputation for excellent guiding, an extensive and well-maintained road network,  good yet unobtrusive communications between guides, and you have a winning recipe.

A couple of years or so ago, first Sable and then MalaMala Camp (formerly known as Main Camp), were re-fashioned,  giving them a fresh and slightly more contemporary feel, but retaining the classic Lowveld safari feel that is at the heart of the MalaMala experience.


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Photo MalaMala

The refurbishment of the rooms and general areas at MalaMala Camp and Sable Camp succeeded admirably in refreshing and updating the look and feel of MalaMala.  It brought in more light and some brighter colors with a bit of pop. The private decks are larger and just perfect for lounging while game viewing and star gazing.  All bolstering MalaMala’s long-cherished ‘authentic African safari’ feel and character.  This is still THE place to experience absolutely the best game-viewing in the Sabi Sands, bar none.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo MalaMala

With Kirkman’s Kamp (formerly part of MalaMala) now back under the same ownership, MalaMala’s already massive traversing area has been enlarged even more.  Of course this means that Kirkman’s vehicles are now also driving on the southern section of MalaMala (Charleston) but clearly there’s plenty of space for everybody.   From time to time vehicles will have to be cycled into and out of prime sightings but that happens everywhere and I do believe it will remain the exception rather than the rule at MalaMala.


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Photo MalaMala

Our game-viewing experience on a recent visit to MalaMala was typical.  After checking in (which was quick and efficient), we went on a short game drive with our guide Brendan. Right off the bat, we observed a couple of hippo out of the water which was good as we hadn’t seen any of them on the trip yet.  And then the predictable started to happen.  First it was a leopard. The Piccadilly female. She momentarily seemed interested in some prey animals but then changed her mind.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Photo MalaMala

The following morning our guide found several African painted dogs on the Toulon property and then – another first for the trip – rhino.  Not 200 meters from camp there was a white rhino in the river bed.   That afternoon, after a brief rhino detour (two massive white rhino feeding) we made our way to the northern section of the property where there were two cheetah boys resting in the shade.  Superficially identical to the females we had seen earlier (at Mashatu), they were noticeably bulkier and clearly stronger. We stayed there with them for a good 20 minutes plus before heading to camp.


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Photo MalaMala

It wasn’t over yet.  A solitary hyena led us to a hyena den which the local clan had just recently started using.  A second adult hyena female could be seen there, with two babies.  Next – lions!  The afternoon drive started on a high note with close-up views of the Eyrefield lion pride consisting of two males, three females and four sub-adults.

The best was left for last.  A surprise announcement by Brendan that a pangolin – also known as a Scaly Anteater and Ietermagog in Afrikaans – had been sighted and off we went to see it.   None of our group had ever seen one of these animals so we looked at this large, elongated and heavily scaled mammal in amazement. It looks more reptilian or amphibian than mammal, which makes it unique. Very rarely seen –  even less frequently than aardvark –  pangolin is a real ‘once in a lifetime’ sighting for most visitors to Africa.  Actually for most visitors it is a ‘never in a lifetime’ sighting.  That rare.


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Photo MalaMala

On the way out from the pangolin sighting we struck the jackpot again with a good look at a serval, a sleek small spotted cat which stared at the vehicle for a second or two and then bounded off into the bush at speed.  

As a memento of our ‘achievement’, Kathy and I both received a ‘Magnificent Seven’ certificate from MalaMala.   At MalaMala, notching up the ‘Big Five’ mammals over the course of two or three days is not at all unusual, but adding cheetah and African painted dogs to that list is special.


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Photo Royal Malewane

ROYAL MALEWANE LODGE, THORNYBUSH GAME RESERVE

Royal Malewane lodge in the Thornybush Game Reserve,  embodies hospitality at its most refined level and any well-informed Southern African travel expert would put it in a short list of ‘the best of the best’.  There’s nowhere else to go that would be better or would provide a more authentically South African safari experience.


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Photo Royal Malewane

While there are a few other ‘contenders’, for the single best safari lodge in Southern Africa, Royal Malewane can rightfully claim a spot at the very top of the list simply because of the excellence of its guiding staff.  They are without equal.  Being with someone like Rudi Hulshof on a game drive is like listening to a virtuoso performance by Yo-Yo Ma.  The cooking is at the same level.  Divine.  So are the rooms.  The property exudes the romance and beauty of a bygone age while offering every modern comfort and convenience.


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Photo Royal Malewane

On a recent visit to Thornybush, we spent some time at Royal Malewane Farmstead, where camp manager Nick Daneel and his team introduced us in splendid fashion to this iconic safari brand. I was thrilled to finally find out for myself what it was that has made Royal Malewane such a highly regarded and popular deluxe safari brand.

Like all great brands, Royal Malewane creates quality by imbuing every aspect and facet of the guest experience with quality.  To start with, the usual new arrival formalities were dealt with as efficiently and briskly as I’ve ever seen it done.  In the room – which was a veritable work of art itself – there was a half bottle size of quality sparkling wine on ice, if one were so inclined.


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Photo Royal Malewane

As a couple, we are always reluctant to open an entire 750 ml of sparkling wine (anywhere), knowing that most of it would be wasted.  Not an issue at Royal Malewane.  The mini-bar and snack bar had everything one could possibly want – and more.  The room had ample space, plenty of natural light, and a mix of practical and whimsical design and decorative elements which combined into an esthetically pleasing whole.  The Liz Biden touch was unmistakable.  I liked the fact that the suite was uncluttered, without any nooks and crannies, making the most of the available space. The back doors (French doors also located in the bathroom) opened up to a fabulous deck with an outdoor shower and an inviting splash pool.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Shortly afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious light tapas lunch and a bit later went out on the first of two outings with our guide, the afore-mentioned Rudi Hulshof, assisted by tracker Lodrick Mkansi. Over the course of 30 years in the safari business we’ve come across many excellent and a few superb guides.  Rudi quickly established himself as being in the latter group.  His pre-drive briefing was confident and comprehensive without being pedantic.  I was particularly pleased with his comments about sundowners, to the effect that people do not come to Africa to drink G & T’s  and that depending on the game-viewing scenario and flow, there may not be time for a drinks stop.  Which is exactly what happened.  We were so engrossed with a young female leopard resting on a horizontal branch and then a heart-stopping walk-by of five sub-adult lions, that a sundowner stop before sunset would have been out of place.


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Photo Royal Malewane

Rudi’s uncanny anticipation of animal behavior, his pithy, clear and concise comments about habitat, trees and plants and any topic we cared to raise, were what we had anticipated from the highly regarded and award-winning Royal Malewane guiding team.  Between them, the team has over 300 years of African bush experience, including no less than three of only seven living Master Trackers in the world.  


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Photo Royal Malewane

On the morning of our departure back to Jo’burg, we took a short game drive from the Farmstead to Royal Malewane where we enjoyed breakfast on the patio overlooking a well visited water hole.  It was great to finally see for ourselves what makes this place so special and famous.  The welcome from camp manager and expert guide Juan Pinto, illustrated how a few well chosen remarks can make a hugely favorable impression.  Juan complimented Kathy on her Swarovski binocs and then insisted on checking out my vintage pair of Zeiss 7 X 45’s.  Juan then offered to clean both pairs of binocs, despite having an imminent staff meeting.  That’s how you gain and retain a stellar reputation.


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Photo Royal Malewane

In our blog post next week, we highlight a few more properties on our Groundhog Day list, including Jabulani Safari in the Kapama Game Reserve in South Africa, and Mombo Camp on Chief’s Island in Northern Botswana.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

28th May 2021

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them


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Cape Cadogan – Hotel Exterior View

African Painted Dogs And Where To See Them

My first vivid recollection of African painted dogs is from my childhood, when my siblings and I first started to see these fascinating creatures on self-drive safaris with our parents,  inside Kruger National Park in South Africa.  Even that many years ago, the painted dogs – also known as ‘wild dogs’ or Cape hunting dogs – were scarce and thinly spread and to see them was a special treat.  The park authorities encouraged visitors to report all sightings – which we duly did.  We spent a couple of weeks or so in Kruger Park almost every winter for several years, yet I can only recall seeing the ‘wilde honde’ – Afrikaans for wild dogs – on a handful of occasions.  


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Most memorably, we saw a small pack of painted dogs one afternoon – in the northern part of the park – encircle and attempt to bring down an adult sable antelope.  Those of you familiar with sable antelopes will know that these animals possess an impressive pair of long, curved horns with sharp tips.  On this day, as we kids and of course mother and father, were watching totally spellbound, the sable antelope wedged its vulnerable hind quarters into a thick bush and faced off the repeatedly charging painted dogs.


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Every time one of the dogs would stray a little too close, the sable would viciously swing at it with its scythe-like horns, evoking quick evasive moves on the part of the dog.  One after another, the painted dogs would dart in and out, apparently trying to rattle the sable into bolting.  We realized early on that this hunting attempt was doomed to fail, with an adult sable antelope simply being too much to handle for a small pack of painted dogs.  The dogs figured it out too and after a few more desultory charges, they gave up and trundled off into the bush.


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Memories like these go into the ‘indelible’ category and witnessing this play out in front of your very own eyes is what makes wildlife observation – particularly in an African setting with the interaction between predators and prey – as popular and enduring a pastime as it has proven to be.

Seeing and enjoying – and helping to protect and conserve these endangered mammals – continue to be a part of what motivates and inspires many of us in the photographic safari industry.

African painted dogs have been listed as endangered since 1990, with an estimated total population of just over 6,000 of these animals surviving in about 40 subpopulations, all threatened by habitat loss and fragmentation, human persecution and disease.


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Painted dogs in Botswana

Most of the painted dogs that can readily be seen in the wilderness, are to be found in Southern Africa and more specifically in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe. In Botswana, their core area is Ngamiland which includes the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Chobe National Park.  There are estimated to be about 40 or so packs of painted dogs in Northern Botswana, containing around 450 to 500 animals in total. 


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Some time ago, on a game drive out of Dumatau, the Wilderness Safaris property in the Chobe-Linyanti area, we experienced what one might describe as a typical african painted dog scenario:  Our afternoon game drive with our Dumatau guide started on a high note. Not long into the drive, we came across an african painted dog pack of nine, resting up and lolling about in a loose group, a couple of the younger ones coming right up to take a look at our vehicle. Over the following few minutes their demeanor changed from relaxed and inquisitive to alert and focused as they started hunting.


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We followed the main group as they rambled through the bush, slowly increasing their speed to a steady trot. Soon, the dogs were moving rapidly through fairly dense woodland, changing direction once or twice, but heading in the general direction of the floodplain. Two hyenas could also be seen, following the dogs, in the hope of a ‘free meal’, no doubt. By this time, there were two vehicles in radio contact ‘working’ the hunt, one trying to maintain visual contact with the dogs, and the other one anticipating the direction and speed of the chase. As it happened, we were in the lead towards the end.


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As we emerged from the tree-line and descended onto the edge of the floodplain, in a cloud of dust, we came upon the painted dogs just seconds after they had brought down an impala ram. It was a scene of primeval intensity as they devoured their prey, the sound of their teeth tearing the skin and ripping at the sinews all that could be heard other than our muttered exclamations of amazement and awe. Within the space of just five minutes or so the impala was reduced to little more than backbone, skull and horns. We sat there for the longest time just taking it all in, waiting for the last light of dusk to fade away before we slowly made our way back to camp, for dinner”.

Legendary Lodge


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Some time later, we were back at Dumatau and on the drive from Chobe airstrip to Dumatau, one of the other passengers mentioned to our guide Ron Masule (head guide at Dumatau) that the only signature Botswana species which I had not seen thus far on my trip, was painted dog. So, he said, ‘Ron better find us some dogs…!’ It didn’t take long. Just after tea we headed out of camp to a spot where the painted dogs had been spotted the previous day. Within 20 minutes or so, I had my first view of what turned out to be a pack of about 7 of these magnificent animals. After negotiating some very rough terrain we stopped on the edge of a small seasonal waterhole where the painted dogs were resting up and settling in for the night. In the fading light, I was happy to get a few good photographs.


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Something interesting which I learnt that day, was that various birds, notably the bateleur eagle and the hooded vulture, are closely associated with painted dog sightings.  The bateleurs because they want to snag a morsel of meat left behind from the kill, the hooded vultures for a rather more obscure reason.  They are coprophagic so the high-protein droppings of the painted dogs are simply a food item to them.  Whatever.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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On another visit to Botswana, on a game drive out of Kwando Safaris’ Kwara Camp, we had been looking for the painted dogs for nearly two days solid, finding and then losing their tracks repeatedly.  On our last morning there, we were hot on their trail again, but somehow, frustratingly, could just not close the gap.  

At around 3:00 pm or so, we stopped at a small pond for a tea and coffee break.  Having gotten out of the vehicle, we were standing around chit-chatting when, from the corner of my eye, I noticed one and then several wild dogs running out of the woodland towards the water. The wild dogs had found us! We spent the next hour in their company. There were six in total, which is about average for a painted dog pack.


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Having followed the six wild dogs for a while, we saw them resting up in a grove of Kalahari apple-leaf trees. There were 2 females and 4 males. Again, typical of a painted dog pack which is almost always ‘male-heavy’ as it is the females which leave the pack, when it gets too big or when conditions merit, to become the founder of a new pack.  The males stay put.  These very handsome animals were quite oblivious to our presence. As is their habit, they engaged in some horseplay, or perhaps more correctly – canine capers. I recall shooting about 200 mediocre shots of African painted dogs. A couple or so turned out ok.


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Painted dog behavior and social structure

A Botswana property where we had seen the African painted dogs on more than one location, is Lagoon Camp, which lived up to prior billing as ‘the’ wild dog camp in N. Botswana. We twice bumped into a large pack of dogs there, watching them feed on an impala and observing their strict but amiable social structure, with the pups eating first, then the alpha dogs and finally the others.


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This is typical behavior for the painted dogs, which are highly social animals.  Breeding is limited to the alpha female, who stays close to the pups in the den, and who discourages pack members from visiting them until they are old enough to eat solid food at three to four weeks of age.  By the time the pups are about five weeks old, they start to eat meat regurgitated by pack members.  When the pups reach the age of about 10 weeks, the den is abandoned and the youngsters – who by now resemble adults in every way – follow the adults around on hunts.  This is when they are allowed to eat first, until they are about a year old.


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Together with cheetahs, the African painted dogs are the only primarily diurnal  large African predators. We’ve seen them hunt well past sunset, as well.   African painted dogs have a high hunting success rate and their average of kills as a percentage of attempts exceeds that of both lions and leopards.  The species which feature highest on the painted dogs’ menu are kudu, impala, Thomson’s gazelle (east Africa), bushbuck, reedbuck, lechwe and blue wildebeest.  We have personally observed them taking a hare, proving that they will kill pretty much anything they come across.


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Painted dogs elsewhere in Africa

Two other areas which are good for African painted dogs are the greater Kruger Park in South Africa and Zimbabwe, notably in Hwange National Park and also Mana Pools National Park.  Some of the best camps in the Kruger Park area to visit, to give yourself a decent change at coming across the dogs, are MalaMala, Kirkmans, Singita, Savanna and Dulini in the Sabi Sand Reserve, as well as Kings Camp, Tanda Tula and Kambaku River Sands in the Timbavati Reserve.  In Zimbabwe, we have encountered the painted dogs on game drives from Little Makalolo, Linkwasha, Bomani in Hwange and Chikwenya and Ruckomechi in Mana Pools.


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In our blog post next week, we will take a look at a few of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties in Southern and East Africa.  Places where we’d be happy to wake up every morning, for the rest of our lives…

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

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In Search of Leopards

29th October 2020

In Search of Leopards


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In Search of Leopards

What is the only regret that many African safari travelers go home with?  Not seeing a leopard.  I know of several repeat visitors to Africa who have struck out on leopards more than just once.  Three, four trips even and including some known leopard haunts and – nothing.  Some animals are more equal than others, and among the much celebrated ‘Big Five’ mammals – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffaloes – leopards are clearly a standout.


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Not because they are rare – in fact they are more abundant than any of the African big cats – but because they are naturally evasive, skulking and mostly nocturnal.  Other than in a handful of places across Africa, leopards are rarely observed beyond perhaps a quick glimpse, a flash of spots disappearing into the green.


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When you do get lucky with a leopard sighting, it is always fodder for camp-fire talk, something to casually mention over dinner back in camp.  The reaction being a predictable mix of envy and admiration. Suddenly, you’re the most interesting person in the room. There will be an invitation to provide more details and the conversation will probably meander into reminiscing about old but not forgotten leopard sightings.  Memories of this sleek, beautiful cat – pound for pound the most powerful of any of its kind – barely fade with time.


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Prod any safari aficionado a bit and they will tell you about seeing a leopard practically run up a tree in Samburu in Kenya, the warm body of a good sized impala firmly clamped in its jaws.  Or the time they saw a leopard stalk and kill a careless blackbacked jackal in Etosha National Park in Namibia, in the middle of the day.  There are lots of good leopard stories out there.  And almost just as many places and opportunities to experience this most memorable of animals, and start working on your own stories.  Here are some notes on a few of these special places, with some of our favorite leopard photographs.


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Hunda Island, Okavango Delta Botswana

Hunda Island is a large, well-wooded island in the Jao concession in the western part of the Okavango Delta.  The Jao concession is exactly what one might anticipate the Okavango Delta looking like, even before you’ve ever been there.  A stunningly beautiful mosaic of small, palm-fringed islands, meandering channels and pretty lagoons with sizable stands of reeds and papyrus.  When the annual flood is in, large expanses of the Jao floodplain become inundated, creating a water wonderland like no other. Hunda Island is a few feet higher than the surrounding plains, so it stays dry year round.  There is no lack of trees though and plenty of game including impalas, baboons, hares, warthogs and rodents.  Leopard food, all. Some of the leopards to be seen on Hunda Island are quite relaxed – as the guides will say – being habituated to the presence of vehicles.  Which means they can see and smell you – but they don’t care.


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More than once, I’ve seen a leopard in a tree on Hunda Island.  Which is a photographer’s potential dream shot – and also his or her biggest challenge.  The issue being the dreaded ‘bright sky’ background which messes up the exposure, resulting in either an underexposed (dark) leopard or a totally blown out, overly bright sky background.  On the day that I managed to get this shot of a leopard in a tree on Hunda Island, this very same animal had been in another tree just minutes earlier, with ‘just sky’ in the background.  With zero chance of getting a nicely balanced exposure.  I was beyond myself.  Only to have the leopard calmly clamber down that tree, and into another one, with – halleluja – green foliage in the background.  Leopard in a tree shot?  Check.  My advice is to be patient and to stick around.  Things change, and often for the better.  If you’re really keen on getting some great leopard shots, spend more time on Hunda Island (like four nights instead of three) and stay at Tubu or Little Tubu camp.  They are right on Hunda Island and you won’t be wasting time getting there.


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MalaMala Game Reserve, Sabi Sand Reserve, South Africa

I always think of MalaMala as a place where leopards can be seen strolling down a track at 11 in the morning.  It is that kind of a place.  The consistency with which leopards are seen at MalaMala is simply astonishing.  Practically not a day goes by without a leopard sighting, week in and week out.  There were a total of 1,216 sightings in 2019,  an average of 3.3 sightings per day.  Leopard sightings are measured on a per day basis, so if the Island Female is seen on the morning drive and again in the afternoon, that is counted as one sighting. The record high number for different leopards being seen at MalaMala on one day is no less than fifteen.  So if you absolutely, positively ‘have’ to see some leopards on your next or first Africa trip, MalaMala needs to be on your itinerary. You can thank me later.


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If you’ve been there recently or are planning a trip, names like the Piccadilly Female, the aforementioned Island Female, the Nkoveni Female, the Split Rock Male or the Maxim’s Male may either be familiar to you, or soon will be.   The most widely accepted method of leopard identification is by using spot patterns.  A spot pattern refers to the uppermost row of spots on the leopard’s cheeks, above the upper line of whiskers. Probably best to get a good close-up shot of the leopard first, and check the spots later…


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This photo of a young male leopard was taken on our most recent trip to MalaMala in June last year.  What made it special was that we spent nearly an hour observing him walking around, patrolling the area and checking for the scent or signs of any intruders into his territory.  He was completely relaxed and did not so much as look at the vehicle, despite walking right by it on a couple of occasions.  Eventually, he selected one of his favorite spots on a flat rock and stretched out.  We were one of only two vehicles to enjoy this sighting, the first vehicle leaving the scene within minutes of us arriving.


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Mashatu, south-eastern Botswana

Likely the most underrated of any Southern African wildlife sanctuary, Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve delivers big cat sighting after big cat sighting to match any other wildlife area in Africa.  With no exceptions.  Lions, cheetahs, leopards.  All three can currently be seen there consistently.  On a recent September trip, we enjoyed two different cheetah sightings and three different leopard sightings in the course of a relatively short stay at Mashatu Tented Camp.  Unlike the true ‘bushveld’ regions of Southern Africa, Mashatu is relatively arid with less in the way of impenetrable thickets and dense riverine bush.  While there’s plenty of cover for leopards in the way of mopane scrub, woodland, craggy terrain and rocky outcrops, visibility is generally quite good and I’ve had more unobstructed views of leopards and other cats here, than practically anywhere else.  Except perhaps for the Serengeti/Mara complex in East Africa.


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This photo of a leopard at Mashatu was the culmination of a guiding clinic, of sorts.  Initially, our guide – and tracker – had spotted some fresh leopard tracks in one of the dry ephemeral rivers in the reserve.  Following the tracks down into a gully, we had every expectation of bumping into the leopard. Soon.  It was nowhere to be seen.  The tracks had petered out in a gravelly patch.  We circled around a bit and just when I had pretty much given up on the sighting, the guides heard the alarm call of a helmeted guineafowl.  Looping around a few bushes, we approached the loudly protesting bird which was practically pointing at a nearby bush.  If a bird could point.  Sure enough, not seconds later, a leopard emerged from the bush. It gave us the barest of glances and calmly crossed the dry riverbed, prompting a torrent of machine gun-like shutter clicks from my Nikon D4 at nine frames per second.  Success!


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Mombo Camp, Chief’s Island Botswana

Wilderness Safaris’ Mombo Camp has gained a worldwide reputation and recognition for all-round excellence.  Hospitality, guiding, game-viewing, atmosphere, food – there are no shortcomings. On first arriving at the Mombo airstrip many years ago, we were given the choice of proceeding to a cheetah kill or a Martial Eagle which had just taken down an impala. Of course we did both, and they were both phenomenal.  The photos, much to my regret, were lost in a subsequent hard drive failure.  I know.  Back up on the cloud…  The following day we experienced the first of many leopard sightings at Mombo, a streak which remains unbroken over the course of several return visits.  As recently as March 2020 we were on a fantastic sighting of a female leopard in a tree – with her cub – within fifteen minutes on our first game drive.  So Mombo.


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One of the most legendary of Mombo leopards was Legadima, which Kathy and I were fortunate to see more than once.  She was truly a ‘movie star’ leopard, featured in Dereck and Beverly Joubert’s ‘Eye of the Leopard’.  It followed every step of her life, as the cub of Tortilis, from just eight days to three years old.  Two of Legadima’s cubs namely Pula and Maru then became Mombo favorites, as did Phefu, the daughter of Maru.  Currently a young male leopard named Tladi – the son of Phefu – is being seen all around Mombo, walking on the boardwalk and clambering onto the roofs of the guest tents.  At just 14 months Tladi successfully hunted a full-grown kudu – quite an achievement for such a young predator.  The Legadima legacy lives on.


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Kaingo Camp, South Luangwa Zambia

Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park is known as good leopard habitat, and there’s no reason not to anticipate seeing one or more at practically any of the camps in the reserve, over the course of 3 days or so.  Some South Luangwa camps do have an edge though, as does Shenton Safaris’ Kaingo Camp.  It definitely belongs in the top echelon of safari properties where you are likely to see and properly photograph a leopard.  On our first visit to the camp we witnessed an extraordinary spectacle one evening when we were out on a night drive, checking for predator action in some open floodplain terrain, along the South Luangwa River.


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It wasn’t long before we had the spotlight on a big male leopard walking into the arena, as it were, checking around for what might be available for dinner.  And then, just minutes later, from stage left, a female lion dashed into the picture, going straight for the leopard.  To her instant regret, our guide had inadvertently lit up one predator for another. She later told us that she would have felt awful if the lion had been successful in getting to the leopard.  In the end the leopard made a successful getaway, scampering to the safety of some nearby trees.


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Another interesting phenomenon which we first observed at Kaingo involved hyenas and leopards.  In this part of Zambia – and likely elsewhere – hyenas often follow leopards around at night, instinctively realizing that they may benefit if and when the leopard makes a kill.  Either by appropriating the carcass for themselves – which we have witnessed on Hunda Island – or by scavenging for leftovers.  So on every subsequent night drive, whenever we would see or hear hyenas, we’d be thinking and looking around for leopards.  More often than not, that is how it turned out.


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Kaingo is exceptionally well attuned to the needs of serious photographers, from the way the vehicles are equipped to the abundance of photographic hides, the kind of advice you get and the ability of the guides to anticipate behavior and movement and get you in the right position for a pro shot, time after time.


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Kirkmans Kamp, Sabi Sand Reserve

AndBeyond’s Kirkmans Kamp and its younger, deluxe sibling Tengile, are leopard mainstays.  On three different visits here the professional guides at both camps have found leopards for us every time without fail.  And not just your common, garden variety of leopard sightings.  We’re talking leopards in trees, leopards just a few hundred meters from lions, and most recently a ‘leopard alert’ where I was cautioned to stay in my room early one morning, waiting for a leopard to walk out of camp.  We’re talking adrenaline-pumping, action-packed sightings which add 200 shots to your photo count in a hurry.


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Despite some back-lighting issues, I managed to get a couple of decent exposures of the leopard that had walked into and then out of the camp, a little while later.  It had climbed into a tree to survey the area.  For whatever reason it was not happy about having the vehicle to the side of the tree, and snarled at us a couple of times.  Uncharacteristic behavior for a leopard, in my experience.  

In our blog post next Friday we will take a look at the where, why and when of chimpanzee trekking in Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

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Read more
Botswana
Destinations
Okavango Delta

3rd October 2022

Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

Read more
Area
Destinations
Nyerere National Park
Ruaha
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14th October 2023

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Read more

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER

READERS FAVOURITES

Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

Read more
Botswana
Destinations

4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

What is the ‘secret sauce’ for an unforgettable few days on safari in Botswana? It starts with the animals, of course. The elephants, lions, giraffes, hippos

Read more
Destinations
India

27th May 2023

India

India’s tiger, mammals and birds.

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Kruger Park & Sabi Sand Reserve South Africa (Continued)

17th September 2020

Kruger Park & Sabi Sand Reserve South Africa (Continued)


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Kruger Park & Sabi Sand Reserve South Africa (Continued)

I wrapped up an extensive educational trip in Kruger Park and in the northern, western and southern sections of the Sabi Sand Reserve, notching up multiple big cat sightings (lions, leopards and cheetahs), some of which rank among my best ever, from a photography perspective.  I was also fortunate to find another big pack of African painted dogs one afternoon, on a drive in the western part of the Sabi Sand reserve.  The four properties visited during the last week of the trip were Mbali Mbali, Savanna Lodge, Singita Boulders and Chitwa Chitwa.


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MBALI MBALI LODGE, KRUGER PARK

Continuing where we left off on a recent late September trip, I was up a little bit later than usual on this day, at Hamilton’s Camp.  After a solid English breakfast I collected my things and was driven to the nearby Mbali Mbali camp which sleeps 24 people in 12 rooms. This thatched property has a large lounge and dining room with a high vaulted ceiling.   Mbali Mbali appears to be quite suitable for families and small groups in search of a moderately priced safari experience. Several of the guests were on self-drive safaris which reduce the overall cost even further. I arrived in time for lunch which was a self-service buffet with choices ranging from leg of lamb to chickpea salad, slices of pizza and couscous. None of it was gourmet fare but it was tasty and plentiful.


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The afternoon and early evening game drive which lasted from about 4 pm until just after 7 pm was predictably quiet. It was simply too windy and unseasonably cold for many of the mammals to be active, and birding was practically impossible under the conditions. Even so, the game drive was not without its highlights. First off, we went in pursuit of a few sable antelope which had been spotted nearby. It took a while but we eventually located the small herd of about six or so sable antelope moving steadily from our right to our left in fairly thick woodland. I never could get a decent capture of one of the magnificent males which was too bad. Nonetheless seeing and following them for the next 20 minutes or so was quite exciting. In South Africa sable antelope are particularly rare and very seldomly seen.


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Our last significant sighting of the day was a seemingly abandoned buffalo carcass, being fed on by five or so whitebacked vultures.  We looked around for predators, expecting at least some hyenas to be present, but there were none. This was true for only a few minutes though because three hyenas did eventually show up, sniffed around and loped off into the bush again soon after.

Then it was back to the lodge for a plated three-course dinner which was served at 7:30 pm. It was quite good, inclusive of a chicken salad starter, impala fillet for the main course, and malva pudding to end. The highlight of the day was definitely discovering the high-speed broadband at Mbali Mbali.  What a pleasure to be able to check email without being totally frustrated by glacially slow data transfer speeds like those at practically all the other camps to this point.  


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SAVANNA LODGE, SABI SAND RESERVE

After catching up on some work and taking a few bird and small antelope photos around the grounds of Mbali Mbali, I did a site inspection of nearby Hoyo Hoyo. It is a quaint, small camp with six rooms in a traditional African or Tonga style. The lodge had been recently updated with an enlarged deck and extra seating/dining options.  It is known for reliably good game-viewing – we saw quite a few elephants close to camp – and is a popular, moderately priced accommodation option.

From inside Kruger Park, it took about three hours by road to get back to the western part of the Sabi Sand Reserve, where my capable and friendly driver from Sable Tours dropped me off at Savanna Lodge.  My first impression of Savanna Lodge was mixed due to the proximity of a village, close to the western edge of the Sabi Sand reserve.  As I was to see and experience during my stay there, it was not an issue. In fact if visitors want to, they can be taken on a village visit to meet and interact with some of the local people.  Savanna has great rooms and amenities.  I happily took them up on an offer of ‘emergency’ laundry service and the few items I handed over were back in my room, washed, dried and neatly folded, before dinner.  Speaking of which, the meals at Savanna were terrific, served family style. Lots of choices, an abundance of fresh salads and produce, and a convivial atmosphere.  


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That afternoon’s game drive started on a high note with close-up views of several white rhinos and quickly reached ‘fever pitch’ with the sighting of a pack of about 20 African painted dogs.  We followed and observed them for the better part of an hour, with young ones running around all over the place.  For a moment there it looked like they might try to take on a zebra but it was not to be.  The reaction of one of the zebras was pretty interesting though! 

The following morning’s game drive with camp manager Paddy was simply brilliant.  It started with a  singularly good cheetah sighting with a male cheetah jumping into a tree and just about posing for us – so close to the vehicle that I had to switch to a 24-70mm zoom lens.  There was a nice dark blue sky background, so for once no burn out issues in what might easily have been another backlit conundrum. Shortly afterward, the male cheetah – by now down from the tree – got into an altercation with a hyena.  This time, I missed the shot, not having enough time to change out the telephoto lens.  Note to self:  always have a second camera handy for this type of situation.  Even an iPhone would have done the job admirably.  From there, we had another look at the painted dog pack – by then mostly sleeping.  The day wasn’t over yet, though.  It ended on another highlight, being a great sighting of a female leopard close to Dulini Camp,  posing for us on top of a mound of dirt.   If I hadn’t gotten a good photograph of that obliging leopard, I probably would have dumped my photo gear right there and then…


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SINGITA BOULDERS CAMP

By 11 am I was on the road again, this time fortunately just a short drive from Savanna to Singita Boulders.  I was shown around by Nicole who was friendly and informative and witty – in fact one of the best front of house people I’ve encountered in a long while. Unquestionably, Singita stands at the pinnacle of the photographic safari experience in Africa.  It’s all on display at Singita Boulders:  exceptional quality architecture and a luxury safari vibe, fine dining from morning until night (there always seemed to be something else delicious to eat) and impeccable service. Pretty much the ultimate safari experience – admittedly at a price.


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My wine-tasting experience at Singita underscored the level of sophistication of the operation.  For this experience, I was driven a few minutes across to Singita Ebony, the other Singita Sabi Sands property.  The young sommelier did a wonderful job introducing a few of us to some fine South African wines including a particularly nice Pinotage blend.  One of the guests present was not overly impressed with the selection of wine tasting options and almost jokingly said, “Where is the Rust en Vrede Estate?”  Singita being Singita, the sommelier disappeared into a doorway and re-appeared minutes later, brandishing a bottle of Rust en Vrede Estate.   Everyone was blown away by the depth and complexity of this Bordeaux style blend.  Incidentally, Rust en Vrede was chosen by President Nelson Mandela to be served at the Nobel Peace Prize dinner.  Rust en Vrede is produced by winemaker Jean Englebrecht in the Stellenbosch area.


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Our game viewing outings from Singita Boulders were on the quiet side, compared with what I had experienced over the previous few days. Even so we (I shared a vehicle with a family from Sweden) saw more Cape buffalo in the area close to the lodge than anywhere else in the Sabi Sands. We also had some excellent rhino sightings in addition to the usual plains game. Guests who spend several days – we would recommend a minimum of three nights – in the Sabi Sands would of course have multiple opportunities to see all of the ‘Big Five’ species and much more.  My Singita guide was a stand-out: fun to be with, knowledgeable and able to impart information in a credible manner without lecturing or sounding forced. Clearly in love with her job in the hospitality and wildlife conservation field. All of the other guests on the vehicle remarked on that.


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CHITWA CHITWA CAMP

By 11 am the following morning I was on my way to Chitwa Chitwa. This would be the last overnight stop on my lengthy trip.  Fortunately, it did not disappoint. The room and lounge layout and design were stylish and creative, without being extravagant. Chitwa Chitwa has massive rooms with air conditioning, indoor bath and shower, and an outdoor shower.  It is squarely in the deluxe category, on every level. I liked the wide and gently sloping pathways and the entertaining yet thorough arrival briefing.  A rambling, overly long or unnecessarily pedantic camp introduction can be off-putting, but this one was spot-on.  Brief, to-the-point and light-hearted, yet touching on all the important safety stuff.


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The game drive that afternoon started off on a rather shaky note, with more backlit photos of a leopard against a bright sky background.   My guide displayed considerable patience and guiding acumen and somewhat to my surprise (I should have known better), the afternoon ended on a high note when we spent the last hour observing and photographing a couple of baby leopards, in the fading light.  They had been secreted by their mother while she was away hunting, but their curiosity overcame their fear and they started to show themselves – barely – peeking out at us from the undergrowth.  A magical experience which I will never forget.  


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On my last game drive of the trip, I was up at 5 a.m, ready to go.  If there’s one requirement for a job in the photographic safari business, it is to embrace the routine of getting out of bed super early – often in the dark and when it is cold – day after day.   It turned out to be a nice sunny morning, a bit breezy and colder than what one may expect for the South African bushveld in early October. It was yet another productive game drive and perhaps not unsurprisingly, we saw more big cats.  I had to stop myself from getting blasé about cat sightings.  They are just too rare and too special for anyone to be indifferent about seeing them.  Initially, things were quiet but then picked up with a great buffalo sighting. We spent some quality time with a herd of about 50 or 60 Cape buffalo, getting photos of them from a variety of angles in very nice if somewhat bright morning light.  And then things got really interesting when the guide spotted a female leopard and her sub adult cub walking through the open woodland, eventually jumping into a tree very close to us. Again, I was caught with too much lens:  the fixed 300 mm lens on my D4 was not ideal for the close up action which followed.  This is the type of situation where one should ideally have two cameras on hand:  one with a shorter zoom lens such as a 70-200 mm.  Fortunately the advent of lighter and smaller mirrorless cameras is making this less of an issue than it had been up to now, because of weight restrictions.  


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My brief stay at Chitwa Chitwa turned out to be one of the highlights of the entire trip. It was friendly, everyone seemed to enjoy working there and every facet of the experience was excellent. The food was a highlight: the dinner starter – a grilled prawn (shrimp) salad – was one of the best I had had in many years.  The perfectly cooked lamb loin chops were just as praise-worthy, and ditto for the malva pudding dessert, simply divine.  


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At the time of my visit, a serious drought was affecting much of the greater Kruger Park area.  One of the worst droughts in many years, in fact.  It had a serious impact on grazing species such as hippos and buffaloes, many of which died or moved out of the area, either because of a lack of food or as a result of being pursued by lions.  There were no issues with the overall quality of the game viewing, in fact it was stellar.  Clearly, the predators were having a field day. In 40-plus  years of game-viewing, I had simply never seen and photographed such an abundance of big cats and other predators, in one extended trip. Not soon to be repeated either.  

In next week’s blog we look at the first of a couple of walking safari options, this one being the WalkMashatu trail in the Tuli block of Botswana.

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Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

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