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Having lived and worked in Johannesburg for several years I will admit to having a soft spot for it. For one thing, the weather is pretty much perfect. Cool in the winter but hardly ever below freezing, and never too hot in summer, with maximums around 85F. The city has a somewhat undeserved reputation for being ‘dangerous’ but in reality it is not dissimilar to most large cities anywhere in Africa – and beyond. Potentially dangerous if you stray into the wrong place at the wrong time. Otherwise just like anywhere else.

In an attempt to stay somewhat up to date with conditions, trends, ‘new’ places to see and visit and to revisit some favorite spots, I periodically venture out in Johannesburg, accompanied by a professional driver-guide. Which is the proper way to do it, and which we recommend for our guests.

Constitution Hill

This last November, Kathy and I did a day tour with a driver-guide from Jarat Tours and a step-on guide – James Delaney from Jo’burg Gurus. We revisited Constitution Hill, where visitors can witness and learn about some of the harsh conditions and regulations which prisoners from the apartheid era had to endure. Many men and women were incarcerated within its walls during its 100-year history and it is sobering to reflect on the humiliations and injustices to which its inmates were subjected. Despite all that, there is an air of renewal and promise in the visit as well when you enter and look around the Constitutional Court (South Africa’s supreme court). Many of the bricks used in the construction of the highest court of the land came from the now-demolished Awaiting Trial Block, part of the old prison complex.    

A bit later, we drove to Maboneng – a revitalized neighborhood – where we met our guide, James Delaney, over a cup of coffee. Maboneng, the adjacent Jewel City and nearby graffiti hotspots make for interesting observations of an African city in transition. Several areas have been creatively converted from abandoned warehouses or office blocks to vibrant districts with street art murals, African craft traders, good coffee and people watching.

We walked around the area for a bit, checking out a couple of studios, shops, and restaurants, before strolling over to the Jewel City area. We observed some interesting graffiti and wall art and enjoyed a brief chat with some of the locals. It was refreshing and insightful to be around ‘regular’ people in South Africa and to just be a bystander in an area where Joburg residents were going about their business.  This is of course not the case in the safari properties where guests meet and interact with mostly professional hospitality staff.

Victoria Yards

Our next stop was Victoria Yards where James Delaney has his art studio. Just 20 minutes from Johannesburg airport, this 100-year-old complex of Victorian-era industrial buildings (originally a steam laundry) has become home to a variety of artists, teachers, learners and other creative enterprises. I was immediately captivated by the red brick buildings contrasting with the bright green vegetable gardens and fruit trees. I soon realized that there’s quite a bit to see and do at Victoria Yards. Currently, Victoria Yards has more than 50 tenants which include artists, crafters, ceramicists, clothes makers, furniture designers and a jeweler – and on a tour you can meet the people making these inspiring African creations. Well-known artists including James Delaney and Blessing Ngobeni, and fashion designer Tshepo all have studios here.

Victoria Yards has a coffee shop with bakery, a sorbet shop, pizza, and a fish & chips restaurant which we will definitely try the next time we are there. Our advice? Take your time, support the local economy and pick up some gifts before your next flight. Kathy bought a couple of Shwe bags, a steal at about US$10 for a small bag, and up to US$25 for a bigger size. Otherwise just slow down and have a snack in this gentle setting. There’s a craft gin distillery and bar on the premises as well.

Victoria Yards is in an old suburb of Joburg (on the border of Bertrams and Lorentzville) close to downtown, on the edge of some rough neighborhoods, but it is a safe enclave. The surrounding disadvantaged community benefits directly from opportunities created there. Victoria Yards also has a school for local children on the premises and many community projects. We think it is ideal for American guests who have a few hours to kill either on their day of arrival or before their flight back. From Victoria Yards we went to 44 Stanley for lunch. It’s likewise a great spot, similar to Victoria Yards (same developer) but more retail focused. 44 Stanley – which is in Braamfontein Werf – is a collection of light industrial buildings set amid picturesque courtyards with pretty greenery. The mostly boutique stores offer unique goods, from local designer labels to ceramics, furniture and Joburg mementos.

The Wilds

Facing the daunting prospect of a 16-hour flight commencing later that day,  a stroll in The Wilds – a pocket park right on the edge of downtown Johannesburg – was just what the doctor ordered. For many years The Wilds was a ‘no go,’ crime-ridden area. No more. All thanks to the effort of James Delaney and the thousands of Joburg volunteers inspired by him. The results of years of restoration and upkeep, including a huge sculpture installation which led to more and more public involvement, has turned The Wilds into a delightful spot to visit. The sizable area, mostly encompassing large hillsides planted with South African flora, is beautifully maintained and safe, with people enjoying picnics on a nice warm Jo’burg summer day. The Wilds nature reserve is just minutes from the inner city, but you’ll feel like you’re far away. There are many sculptures, great views of the Joburg city skyline – and walking is great for the body and mind, even if you don’t have a long flight scheduled. 

James Delaney is a contemporary painter and printmaker with a myriad of other interests, hobbies and passions. From designing parks and safari lodges to marketing and photography, among others. With his diverse interests and experience gained while traveling the world (more than 53 countries including regular annual visits to New York City), and his entertaining conversational style, James is the ideal guide on a spontaneous ‘let’s see what happens next’ tour incorporating some of his favorite spots in Jo’burg. You can find James Delaney’s art studio at Victoria Yards in Lorentzville, Space No: 8G2 (Victoria Yards is open 9am to 5pm on weekdays; 10am to 5pm on Saturdays; 10am to 4pm on Sundays). Follow him on Instagram @delaneyartist, or visit his website at delaney.co.za

James’ brother Simon Delaney – an attorney in Jo’burg – is also a part time guide with Jo’burg gurus and he is the person for guests who want to delve a bit deeper in the struggle against  apartheid and its aftermath, and specifically the Mandela experience.  

For more information about our custom trips to Southern Africa which often include a day or two in Johannesburg, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.