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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

1st October 2021

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia
OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia

Off to the Lower Zambezi

Every once in a while, I walk into a safari camp which captivates me from the word go. Most recently, it was Tusk and Mane’s Kutali Camp on a small island in the Zambezi River in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. After missing an entire season due to the pandemic, the camp had been experiencing good occupancy lately and we arrived in what was a full camp, in July. Not surprisingly, there was a buzz in the air. Lots of smiles all round, a sense of relief and a growing realization that things were going to be ok – soon. All was not lost. Pristine wilderness areas like this one would once again be hosting appreciative visitors from all over the world.

Kutali Tent credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

It’s really easy to like or even love Kutali. The camp has the most perfect setting right on the edge of the Zambezi – in one direction – and a simply fantastic forest of winterthorn trees in every other direction. All throughout the day from first light until the last bird calls fade away after sunset, the forest takes on a different look and feel. Mysterious, somber, brooding – its mood changes as the sunlight comes and goes. The Lower Zambezi is known for magnificent stands of winterthorn and other trees, but few can match the exquisite forest which pervades Kutali with a little bit of magic and tons of atmosphere.

Luke and Kyle credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans personify Tusk and Mane, their safari company operating in one of Africa’s top safari destinations, Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Kyle and Luke are both young, personable and full of energy and at the vanguard of a much needed ‘back to the basics’ safari philosophy. For them, it is all about what happens outside the tent. They are passionate about many things, but mostly about the wilderness itself. They want to take you back in time to those legendary ‘Hemingway’ escapades in a part of Africa where you can reconnect with nature and replenish your senses.

Tusk and Mane

Tusk and Mane is unapologetically focused on delivering a ‘back to nature’ wilderness adventure. They are not about cut flowers in the room, elaborate spa menus or 2,000 bottle wine cellars. That doesn’t mean that you will be slumming it. To the contrary. Their camps are simple yet comfortable. Old style luxury camping at its finest. A setting where visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, experiencing it under the stars, around the campfire and on every activity.

Kutali tent and forest credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch, a vastly experienced and accomplished professional safari guide, has worked as a guide, in camp management and in a training capacity in several African countries including Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and Uganda, over the last 15 years. He explains his decision to settle in Zambia, as follows: “Zambia is an incredibly wild country with diversity I can’t get enough of. I have chosen to move my life here permanently to show those who are interested, an untouched wilderness where you can still picture what it was like walking the banks of the Zambezi in the 1800s. It is truly a childhood dream coming true”.

Kyle’s friend and business partner Luke Evans is on the same wavelength. Born in Zambia, he literally grew up in safari camps in the Kafue, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks, where his parents spent many years in the safari business. Luke – who is trilingual, speaking Chi Nyanja, English and German – has worked with several safari operators including Robin Pope, Sanctuary and Sausage Tree. His forte is having been involved in every facet of the safari business from guiding, to camp management, to marketing, to reservations, to accounting. Luke summarizes the essence of Tusk and Mane as follows: “Tusk and Mane is about a simple but pure safari experience tailored to all the best aspects of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Ours is a “back to roots” approach built around a great Zambian team, excellent guiding, ice cold drinks, hot bucket showers, comfortable beds, good homemade food and our passion for this great Zambian wilderness”.

Getting to and experiencing Kutali Camp

It took us a bit less than an hour and a half by air, from Busanga in the Kafue to Jeki Airstrip which serves a few safari camps located on or close to the Zambezi, in the central and eastern part of the Lower Zambezi National Park. There are daily scheduled flights from Lusaka, Mfuwe and Livingstone to and from Jeki airstrip from June through October, which constitutes the high season. Outside these months, seat rates are available. Compared to many remote bush camps, the transfer time to Kutali and Chula is short – no more than 30 minutes. It is easy to combine a few days here with a stay elsewhere on the Zambian circuit.

Chula camp dinner under the stars credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Having arrived around 10:00 am we were collected by Kyle and Luke and started to make our way to Kutali Camp. This being the Lower Zambezi, it suddenly got really exciting as we bumped into a pack of more than 20 African painted dogs, then denning in the area. Several of them were interacting with each other, and at one stage almost all of them got up and relocated to a shadier spot.

A little bit later we made it to Kutali Camp which would be our home for the night. As I had noted earlier, the camp has a great setting underneath a particularly dense stand of Faidherbia albida (Winterthorn) trees, and overlooks the Zambezi River.

Elephants, buffaloes, and even leopards are often seen around the campsite, and of course there are hippos all over the place at night, when they leave their Zambezi home to forage.

Legendary Lodge

Chula camp at night credit Tusk & Mane

Later in the afternoon we took a boat ride upstream on the Zambezi, to the site of Chula, Tusk & Mane’s other small tented camp. This camp is located in yet another gorgeous spot, just to the west of the well-known Old Mondoro camp. That evening we experienced a beautiful sunset, watching in awe as the golden light faded over the mountains of the Zambia escarpment.

Dinner table at Chula credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Dinner at Kutali camp was memorable in more ways than one. A safari camp really comes alive at night just before and during dinner. This magical evening was no exception. Right off the bat, we were happy to see some familiar faces: Phil and Tyrone from Musekese and their significant others were in camp! We were thrilled to see a guest from Switzerland there, whom we had first met at Musekese as well. A mini-reunion! As is often the case this time of the day, we got word of some other good sightings. The African painted dogs had been sighted again, as well as a leopard.

Villa Maua

Sitting around the fire I caught bits and pieces of several conversations, the topics ranging from wildlife photography to the (then) imminent Zambia general election, the rapidly rising number and rate of Covid vaccinations in Zambia, and the weekly flow pattern of the Zambezi. Which, as you may not need to be told, goes up and down in tandem with the excess amount of water released from Lake Kariba to operate the turbines which generate electricity. Less on the weekends, more during the week.

Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane

The night was typical in some ways with friendly, like-minded people surrounding me, all imbued to one degree or another with a love of animals, nature and the wilderness. In other ways, it was a unique, never to be repeated event: making new acquaintances who may become new friends, acquiring new knowledge and experience, taking photographs and making memories which may last a lifetime. Finding myself in a true wilderness area where I’ve never been before and judging it to be so appealing and special that I am already making plans for a longer return stay. This, of course, is what an African safari is all about and what makes it such a satisfying vacation.

We made an early start the following morning to the western part of the Lower Zambezi National Park. All the while, driving through some beautiful, atmospheric winterthorn forests. From August to October is when the mature winterthorn pods start to drop, attracting numerous elephants and other wildlife into the camp sites.

Our game drive to Jeki was on the quiet side but we did see quite a few elephants, lots of impala, waterbuck, later some zebra and close to the airstrip a leopard – briefly. We stopped for tea alongside the beautiful Discovery channel before we headed to the jetty for our boat ride to our next camp.

Kutali tent and campsite credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kutali and Chula Camps

Kutali Camp is located on Kulefu Island which means ‘far away place’. It is a classic winterthorn forest Zambezi valley camp which offers excellent canoeing and walking opportunities, yet it is just a brief river crossing away from the mainland for game drives.

I quickly made myself comfortable in one of the five square guest tents at Kutali. The rooms are basic but comfortable with hot water bucket showers available on demand, and proper flush toilets in the adjacent, enclosed bathroom. I quite liked the gauze netting which provides protection – but allows air to flow freely – when the solid canvas ‘walls’ are rolled up.

Chula – which means frog – is located on Discovery Island and is Tusk & Mane’s nearest site to Jeki Airfield. They describe the island as being like Jurassic Park – full of surprises, with several hidden lagoons and open dambos. The game-viewing right on Discovery Island is excellent and Kyle and Luke have seen leopards, lions, hyenas, buffalo herds and lots of elephants there, as well as several other species.

Chula tent with Natal Mahogany tree credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

The atmosphere on Chula is unique and it even looks different with an abundance of Natal mahogany trees and sandy beaches. The perfect contrast to Kutali camp.

All the tents used in both Kutali and Chula have:

Ensuite individual bathrooms – accessible without leaving the tent.
Bucket shower, flushing toilet and wash basin with a mirror.
Two comfortable beds with top quality linen provided. The two beds can be joined to form doubles on request.
Two bedside tables with solar lamps/reading lights.
A safe box to store valuables.
Two comfortable camp chairs.
Two folding shelf systems for clothes.
Complimentary laundry service.

The campsites at Kutali and Chula feature a bar area in the shade, a comfortable seating area under canvas and a well stocked, refrigerated bar. There is almost always a campfire going and as we were to find out, the food was more than good – and wholesome.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

We would recommend a minimum 4-night stay split between Kutali & Chula Camp. This will enable visitors to make the most of the wide variety of activities on offer in the Lower Zambezi National Park. A stay at Kutali and/or Chula combines well with Musekese Camp in Kafue National Park and there is a long-stay offer in place, for spending 4 nights each in both locations.

Tusk and Mane

Tusk & Mane activities

The Tusk and Mane experience is diverse and exciting, with much of the game viewing done on foot or from the canoes. Game drives, boat cruises and fishing are on offer as well, making for an exciting and adventurous experience..

The Zambezi is central to what Tusk & Mane is all about and it features prominently in the activities on offer. Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Canoeing

On a previous visit to the area, we went out on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes. I would highly recommend this activity for all visitors: it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours.

Dambo View Tusk & Mane

From Kutali, Kyle Branch leads all canoe safaris. The back-up paddlers, who pilot each canoe with guests, are experienced Tusk and Mane staff. Kyle and the canoe team will quietly paddle you through any of the three incredibly beautiful channels that break away from the main Zambezi river. Depending on what the guests want to experience on the day and the duration they had in mind, the canoe safari route would traverse the Inkalange, Chifungulu or Discovery channel as well as parts of the main river. Each channel is of a different length with different, yet equally diverse habitats alongside.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Walking

The walking safaris are done in the early morning starting at 6:00 am to finish up before the worst heat of the day. The Tusk & Mane walking safaris are relaxed, maintaining a comfortable pace adjusted to suit the slowest guest. Walks usually only cover a few miles with frequent stops for scenery, birds and animals. Guests are given a thorough safety briefing and orientation before each walk. In the interests of safety, participants will need to be reasonably fit and mobile.

Your professional guide will be carrying a first aid kit, radio and additional water. Guests will each have a water bottle in a custom-made sling for easy carrying. The group is accompanied by an armed Wildlife Police Officer from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife. He walks in front with a powerful rifle, together with the professional guide and protects the group in the unlikely event of an aggressive animal encounter.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Boating & Fishing

Boating provides a stable platform for photography from a different perspective, from water to land, with an ideal green backdrop. The river banks are often the scene of action of one kind or another, ranging from hippos rushing headlong into the water to crocodiles staying put. Sometimes allowing you to get really close. On this trip I managed a close up shot of a crocodile’s eye in just such a scenario. A boat trip is also ideal for bird photography with multiple opportunities to shoot birds in flight, and many species that like to hug the edges of the rivers like the waders, skimmers, ducks, cormorants, kingfishers and many others.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Fishing can either be done as a stand-alone activity or combined with boating. In the Lower Zambezi fishing is available throughout the season from May to November. The last two months of the season are the best as this is when the Tigerfish are most active. The fishing is done on a strict ‘catch and release’ basis with every attempt being made to ensure the best chance of survival, in order to maintain and grow fish populations in the Lower Zambezi. All equipment is provided: quality Tigerfish, Vundu, and Bream rods and reels, along with all the tackle and spinners/lures needed. All that is missing is you, a little bit of luck and lots of patience.

Mike Sutherland Tusk & Mane

What makes Tusk & Mane special?

Few places in Africa offer as varied an experience as the Lower Zambezi and all the more so in the Tusk & Mane locations. Guests can experience the Zambezi River from the winterthorn forests on remote islands, all the way north through several habitats into the hills of the Zambia escarpment for the best of both worlds.

From the various Tusk & Mane camp sites you can experience the wildlife rich and diverse areas of the Lower Zambezi either by foot, canoe, vehicle or boat. The safari can be as long as you wish and the activities can be totally tailored to suit you and your party, irrespective of size or make-up. At all times you will be in a classic tented safari setting, exactly how they used to be. With a campfire, bucket showers and one star spangled night after another.

The Tusk and Mane environment offers the ultimate safari activity mix: walking, canoeing, day & night drives, birding, fishing and boating. All in an area where you are not likely to see another vehicle or person, or at most a handful. The camps are small and the experience is personal, with no more than eight guests. A party can opt to pay for as few as five persons and obtain exclusive use of the camp. The camp sites are all in very private areas and a good distance away from where other camps do activities. Which means that you can look forward to experiencing Africa – your way.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Chisa Busanga and the Northern Busanga Plains, Kafue

23rd September 2021

Chisa Busanga and the Northern Busanga Plains, Kafue

Photo by Green Safaris

Chisa Busanga and the Northern Busanga Plains, Kafue

Where many of us live – certainly here in Houston – two rear view mirrors on the left and right hand side of a car are not enough. You really need two additional wide-angle mirrors to make your way safely around the freeways. In Zambia? How about zero mirrors. In the wilderness areas we visited this last July, most of the mirrors on the game drive vehicles had been rendered inoperable. There is no need to see what is behind you because there is nothing there. In some areas there were not even any doors on the game drive vehicles. Don’t need them, don’t have them…

Photo by Green Safaris

My impressions are still fresh but above all Zambia was an authentic, classic safari experience. Everything felt real and genuine, from the greeting at Lusaka International Airport to the treatment we received at the various camps. The management, staff and guides at these camps were friendly and accommodating, and did everything they could to keep us happy and entertained. But more than that, they seemed to take a genuine interest in us. We never ever felt like ‘just another guest’ or visitor – and this carried through to after-dinner conversations which were always lively and fun.

Photo by Green Safaris

In summary, the trip was everything we had anticipated and more: remote, fantastic camps, excellent guiding, great views of a dizzying variety of mammals, birds and other wildlife, amazing scenic beauty, generally light to practically non-existent tourism traffic, first class food and drink and seamless transfers between camps and national parks.

Photo by Green Safaris

Activities were very diverse, ranging from game drives to walking, boating, canoeing, observing wildlife from hides, night drives, and a private lunch on the Zambezi River. There we were, drifting downstream on one of the mightiest rivers in Africa, being served sparkling wine and orange juice, and tucking into a delicious meal…

Photo by Green Safaris

But I’m running a little ahead of myself. In the last week of July, we traveled from Musekese in the Lufupa area, to Chisa Busanga Camp. On our arrival there, Camp Manager Chipasha Mwamba – ‘everyone calls me Pasha’ – sat us down for the customary arrival briefing. Pasha made an indelible impression as an enthusiastic, passionate and very warm person and we enjoyed her company throughout our all too brief stay.

Photo by Green Safaris

Even before we were shown to our accommodation which consisted of innovative, elevated ‘nest’ tents, Pasha helped me out with a battery re-charging issue. She was almost never out of sight during our stay at Chisa Busanga which is unusual for camp managers – yet highly prized and appreciated by visitors. I have no doubt that Pasha will keep things running exceedingly smoothly at Chisa Busanga and future guests can look forward to spending some time in her vivacious company.

Photo by Green Safaris

Then it was time to see our rooms. At the end of a groomed sandy pathway, there was the elevated ‘nest’ structure which would be my home for the next couple of nights, complete with metal ‘ribs’, canvas and twigs. It felt like a real nest with a large opening from where I had a great view over the floodplains. Contrary to my expectations – having seen some photographs of the structures before arriving – the room did not feel weird or contrived. It blended in well with the environment. Also, it was cozy and comfortable. Happily tucked into my bed with a warm water bottle, it didn’t matter that we had arrived at Chisa Busanga in the middle of an exceptionally cold spell.

Photo by Green Safaris

The nests sit four meters off the ground, with the zippered entrance at the top of a short flight of wooden steps. Everything inside the room worked well, from the adequate lighting to the hot water showers and battery recharging points. The creative room design may have initially presented some construction challenges but I think the end product is admirable in several ways. Spending a night in a tree house brings out the adventurer in us, ready to experience something new, fun and exciting. There is nothing boring about Chisa Busanga!

Not having WiFi was an issue. WiFi is clearly something that needs to be delivered when offered. We will give Chisa Busanga a pass, as apparently there were some widespread satellite issues in Zambia at the time, affecting more than just the northern Busanga area.

The food at Chisa Busanga was consistently excellent. Among the highlights were a delicious lamb curry and a perfectly prepared corn and coconut soup. Brunch was stellar as well with tasty fish cakes, chickpea patties, a green salad, a tomato feta salad, eggs to order and pork sausages.

Legendary Lodge

Game drives at Chisa Busanga

Our afternoon game drive delivered an exceptionally good sighting of lions – three male lions in their prime. We spent some time on the edge of a beautiful pan full of wildlife including puku, lechwe, and wattled cranes. Just like Green Safaris’ Shawa Luangwa Camp (see our blog post about that property here), Chisa Busanga operates solar-powered Landcruisers so we explored the plains quietly and cleanly. Almost noiselessly, in fact – and without emitting any noxious fumes.

The following morning we did an early morning game drive out of Chisa Busanga. After a quiet start, we came upon a scene of hundreds of lechwe and puku at the large wetland area close to a massive stand of papyrus. There were hundreds of birds to be seen in every direction. Huge flocks of open-billed storks and many others. Not to mention an abundance of hippos.

On an afternoon outing on my previous visit to the area, we visited the same papyrus grove specifically to try to find some Sitatunga, the rare and extremely shy antelope more commonly associated with the Okavango Delta than with Zambia.

We had hardly arrived when our guide excitedly pointed out two Sitatunga standing in a small clearing on the edge of the massive papyrus thicket. We got a good look at them and then suddenly spotted several more. As it turned out there were 6 of them in total, including two young ones which were running around just like little impalas. It was an exceptional sighting. On the way back to camp we saw a family group of 6 water mongooses which our guide considered to be a unique sighting as these mammals are usually solitary. I also got some good photographs of Roan antelope so all in all it was a very successful afternoon outing.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats

On that same trip – staying at nearby Shumba Camp – we went out on a 45 minute boating trip in a Go Devil craft. It was fun and we got some excellent close up looks at hippo, who were very interested in our presence, especially when we ‘anchored’ in clear sight of them. As we were enjoying our tea break, they were giving us the evil eye, not at all impressed with the new neighbors. We also marveled at the large numbers of open-billed stork in the area, many of which took to the sky when our rather noisy boat passed them by.

I was happy to revisit Shumba on this trip, albeit on a relatively brief site inspection. The camp looked every bit as good and spotless as I had first seen it several years ago. Shumba has six luxury rooms, each with a well appointed indoor and outdoor shower, a large bathroom, and there is an inviting sunken verandah in front of the room, with stunning views over the floodplains. The expansive main area has plenty of space for relaxation and dining and there’s a pool, as well as a fireplace. The entire camp is raised on a wooden platform.

Our afternoon game drive was rather uneventful, but we did see a different pride of lions, two young males and two young females. The northern Busanga Plains area has as many as 35 lions in total. Our next stop was at Shumba’s Go Devil boat station, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset, with hippos visible in every direction.

The Busanga Plains

Found in the northern region of Zambia’s Kafue National Park, this remote wilderness is distinct from the miombo woodlands of the park. Here, flat grassland dambos are dotted with date palms and sausage and fig trees. It is a high rainfall area which makes for a relatively short but eventful season.

As the flood waters recede over June to November, the Busanga Plains become accessible for safaris characterised by outstanding game-viewing, predator action and colorful birdlife.

Indeed, the Busanga Plains are considered to be one of the best bird-watching areas in Southern Africa. With a bit of luck, you might find the endemic Chaplin’s barbet, rosy-throated longclaw, supremely colorful Ross’s turaco or another area special, the black-backed barbet. The Busanga is also all about cranes and at times as many as five or six different types of cranes can be seen, including the distinctive grey crowned and endangered wattled cranes. With a total bird count of more than 450 bird species, Busanga is definitely a birding paradise. In the summer months, migrants like the lesser kestrel and Montagu’s harriers are out and about, while the redoubtable Secretary birds – everybody’s favorite – are relatively easily seen. The distinctive call of the African Fish Eagle is very much part of the Busanga soundtrack.

During the wet months much of the area is inundated and dominated by water-loving species like hippos, crocs, red lechwe, puku, and water birds. When the drier months come around, the water starts to recede and this brings out species like roan, tsessebe, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, buffalo, and more. Inevitably, the predators then follow: lions, leopards, hyaenas, cheetahs, even African painted dogs from time to time.

Even though the Busanga camps are only open for the five drier months of the year, their very presence and the contribution they make to funding anti-poaching operations, are vital to conserve and restore the wilderness and wildlife of the northern Kafue National Park.

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@fisheaglesafarishouston

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‘There’s a leopard behind the bar!’ Musekese Camp, Kafue

16th September 2021

‘There’s a leopard behind the bar!’
Musekese Camp, Kafue

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

‘There’s a leopard behind the bar!’
Musekese Camp, Kafue

Zambia’s Kafue region is one of the last real ‘best kept secrets’ in the African photographic safari arena. This is the place you’ve never heard about but need to go and visit. Soon.

In the Kafue, the experience of being in Africa transcends the clicking of the camera, or even the sheer visual impact of raw nature in all its glory. It is a place where – on my second visit – I felt as much a part of the African environment as I am a denizen of the asphalt jungle of Houston. City slicker or not, in the Kafue I was connected to Africa at a primal, even visceral level. Even though it was just in my mind, I was at home here, thousands of miles from where I live.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Africa will do that to you, if you will let it. Take your time over the experience. Don’t rush from camp to camp. Make time to just do nothing other than looking and listening. Of course in these remote parts of Africa – Kafue being the perfect example – you are often hearing hardly anything, just one level of silence piled onto another one. Is there anything out there? Of course there is, but not something nearly as jarring as the rude sounds of ‘civilization’. Concentrate and you will experience an almost overpowering sense of quiet and peace, interrupted only by the gentle and soothing sounds of nature.

Yet another reason to travel to the Kafue? Talk to any of the Zambia guides elsewhere in the country and you will find out that the Kafue is where they all want to go when they have a break. They don’t have to be told that this vast national park – twice the size of South Africa’s Kruger National Park – attracts only about one percent of the number of people visiting the Kruger Park, on an annual basis. The Zambian guides already know that the Kafue is extremely lightly traveled and that several days may elapse without coming across even one other vehicle.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Musekese Bush Camp

By late July we were right in the heart of the Kafue region, at a crossing point on the Kafue river close to Lufupa Airstrip. It was a relatively brief boat ride from there upstream and across the river, for a final drive to Musekese Bush Camp, a beautifully located bush retreat, hidden away in a copse of trees on a high spot, overlooking a portion of the 8-kilometer long Eden lagoon which is connected to the Kafue River. You can also call it a swamp or more correctly, a dambo. A dambo is a seasonally waterlogged, grass-covered depression that is close to the source of a river or stream.

Visiting Musekese is like stepping into the Africa of old where 2021 still feels like 1921. For the duration of our three days there, it was just us, a couple of other guests, and the guides. We never saw nor heard another vehicle. It felt like our private patch of wilderness – to enjoy and explore.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

It didn’t take any of us long to realize that Musekese is a very special place. It starts with the co-owners Phil Jeffery and Tyrone McKeith. Conservationists and professional safari guides by training and experience, they are who you want to be with, on safari. Passionate about conservation above all, their sense of purpose and dedication is evident almost as soon as you meet them. What makes it so much fun to be in camp with Phil and Tyrone – beyond benefiting from their expertise on game drives and other activities – is their enthusiasm and energy and their sheer joy in sharing this patch of paradise with everyone lucky enough to find themselves there.

I had hardly been in my tent (#4) for 10 minutes before I sat down in a small director’s chair in the inviting front deck portion of the roomy tent. It was quiet – yet busy – with many puku and impala spread out in the open grassy expanse in front of the camp, together with some waterbuck and lots of birds. I immediately felt at ease and connected with the wilderness. Remote? Exclusive? Words that are bandied about almost recklessly in the safari business but very much applicable to Musekese.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

On arrival a bit earlier, we had observed a female lion drawing the attention of several antelopes, as she was walking into the grass cover on the other side of the lagoon. I also saw a breeding herd of about 15 or so elephants walking by and crossing the lagoon in the direction of the Kafue River. Clearly this place has a lot of animals. An unusual sighting (as we were driving into camp) was a group of four large bushpigs, running out of the lagoon and into the bush. With my binoculars trained on the animals, I could clearly see their distinctive white manes.

A little later, we enjoyed a most pleasant lunch consisting of fresh pita bread, hummus, salads, relishes, pork meatballs and vegetable fritters. Nicely presented in an al fresco setting, overlooking the dambo. Then it was time for a short siesta.

Our afternoon game drive took us along the edge of the beautiful lagoon, with wildlife visible in every direction. There were elephants, puku, impala, waterbuck and prolific birdlife. I got out of the car for a low-level elephant shot – which worked quite well photographically and which also – inadvertently – added a little punch to the experience when the elephant took exception to having a lens pointed in his direction. Our quarry that afternoon was leopards and as we were looking around for them, we found – lions. First a male and then two females with four cubs around 8 months old. Shortly afterwards, we came across a part of yet another pride of lions, this time a solitary female with cubs, right by the road.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

There’s a leopard behind the bar

Back in camp a while later, just as the soup had been served, someone walked up, held his hand up to get our attention and said, ‘There’s a leopard behind the bar!’ I was expecting him to announce the remainder of the dinner courses, as is the usual custom in many safari camps. Announcing a leopard? So much better! We scurried up to the bar only to learn that the leopard had already walked away, and was now underneath tent # 1. Tell me you’re in a lively camp without telling me that you are in a lively camp…

Legendary Lodge

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Trundling back to the dinner table, we finished what was yet another great meal at Musekese, this time fish and chips with carrot cake as dessert. The consistently good food at Musekese adds yet another level of enjoyment to its winning trifecta: location, guiding, and hospitality. The rooms were ideal: a good size, airy, with nice views, private and tucked right into a forest. I imagine that even on the hottest of days they would offer some respite. My only real beef was the inadequate interior lighting.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

The following day, our morning game drive was initially on the quiet side but then was instantly salvaged with a rare sighting of two female leopards interacting, on the edge of the tall grass bordering on the lagoon, quite close to camp. The first leopard we saw was marking territory in an overt display of dominance. The second one was more furtive and clearly the interloper: more hesitant but also scent-marking in at least one spot. Eventually both of them disappeared into the thick cover. All the leopards in the Musekese core study area have designations like MSF-5 or MSM-8. This refers to the gender and the sequence in which they were first seen and positively identified. Hence MSF-5 is Musekese Female #5, and so on. Their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied and recorded. Phil identified both of the females for us on the basis of mostly their facial features.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Lunch around noon hit the spot with a delicious tomato & poached egg main dish, roast potatoes, green vegetables and freshly baked bread.

That afternoon we went boating on the Kafue River. I had forgotten just how impressed I was – on my earlier visit to the region – with the beauty and sheer magnificence of this amazing ‘Zambia only’ river. It is massive and majestic, and the forested areas abutting it around Musekese are simply gorgeous. Beyond beautiful. Even though it was quite windy and cold, we got some pretty decent looks at a wide variety of birds including African Skimmers. And of course there were hippos. Lots of them. And crocodiles. Drifting down the Kafue as the sun was setting felt unreal. Was this a movie set and would someone suddenly appear behind us, shouting ‘action!’ from a bullhorn? I wouldn’t have been surprised. Fortunately the dramatic scenes surrounding us were all too real – and ours to enjoy in solitude and peace.

Ntemwa-Busanga Camp

On our last morning at Musekese, we drove to the northern part of the Busanga Plains and made a quick stop at Musekese’s sister property, Ntemwa-Busanga. The camp consists of four unabashedly rustic thatched huts, in authentic bush camp style, with bucket showers and proper flushing toilets. If you’ve always wanted to spend some time in an authentic Zambian bush camp in an adventurous setting, this is your place. The camp has a comfortable, compact lounge and dining room area, elevated well above the ground and overlooking the plains. It is well-located to make the most of the diverse Busanga Plains. From Ntemwa-Busanga you can explore a multitude of habitats, from riverine thickets in the south, the tree-lined edges and the productive, flooded grasslands in the center and the variety of wildlife that inhabit them. Several of the regional Busanga specials such as roan antelope and sable antelope are common sightings in this area. I already have Ntemwa-Busanga on my list of properties to visit in future, so watch this spot.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Wildlife in the core Musekese conservation area

Currently, there are 20 individual leopards in the core study area. Leopards have been detected across the majority of the study area – a good indication of a healthy and growing population of these sometimes elusive cats.

The Lumbeya pack had originally been the only African Painted dog pack known to frequent the core area, but a new painted dog pack had taken up residence subsequently and there are now three known packs utilizing the core area for denning this season.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

There are 16 known lions across two resident prides in the study area around Musekese. Four of the seven cubs of the Musekese lion pride survived the rains and are growing into healthy sub-adults with three females and one male, while both female cubs of the SCZ pride survived the prolonged rains. All adult lions are in good condition. The research team has identified two new adult male lions and detected the presence of others within the study area.

Cheetahs were detected originally mostly based on their tracks, with only one direct sighting. Lately, cheetah sightings have increased and two newly identified sub-adults have been recorded.

Preliminary camera trap study results have indicated the presence of other carnivores in the area, including hyena, caracal, serval and African wild cat.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

The Musekese Conservation Initiative

Before dinner on our last evening, Phil talked to us about the Musekese Conservation Initiative and shared some photographs and personal experiences. This dedicated conservation project works to protect core areas of the Musekese and Lumbeya sectors in Kafue National Park in conjunction with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife. Phil and Tyrone, the founders of Musekese Conservation, have a long history of working in Kafue NP in various capacities including guiding and camp management. They have spent many years building relationships with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife, with tourism operators and local communities based on the core principles of commitment, trust and respect.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

All this has positioned them ideally to achieve their current goals:

Identify, recruit and train a minimum of 5 full time anti-poaching teams and to equip them with the necessary skills and tools to effectively stop illegal poaching of wildlife in core areas of KNP.

Establish baseline population data for indicator species within the core area to identify trends enabling more effective monitoring. Also to determine the effectiveness of interventions.

Since its inception in 2014, Musekese Conservation has spent more than 4,900 days on patrol; have covered more than 6,500 km by foot, recovered 137 traps and snares, traveled 8,500km by vehicle, recovered 9 firearms, recovered more than 1500kg of illegal bushmeat, and covered nearly 60km by boat and bicycle.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

Getting There

It has never been easier or more affordable to fly to the Kafue with flexible departure times available every day of the week from and to Lusaka.

BY AIR

Lusaka to Lufupa Airstrip (or vice versa) – flight time approx. 1 hour 15 minute
Flying to and from all other Zambia destinations from Lufupa Airstrip is also possible with competitive charter flight rates available – Livingstone, Kalabo, Jeki, Mfuwe, etc.
Lufupa Airstrip is across the Kafue River from Musekese Camp. The transfer takes approx. 30 mins and includes a small drive to the river bank, a short boat cruise along and across the Kafue River, and another short drive into camp.

Photo by Jeffery & McKeith Safaris

BY ROAD

Musekese Camp is reachable by road.
Lusaka to Musekese Camp can take approx. 5 to 6 hours, with 3 on a good asphalt road and 2 on a graded bush-road when inside the park towards camp.

We recommend combining Musekese with an additional camp in the Kafue, in the Busanga Plains, as well as with a property in the Lower Zambezi such as Tusk & Mane. Time and budget permitting, it is also possible to add a few days in the South Luangwa National Park. Call or email us for recommended trip itineraries and cost estimates.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Photo courtesy of Bushcamp Company

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property with a simply idyllic location facing out over the Chindeni Lagoon, with the pretty Chindeni Hills in the background. Having first visited Chindeni a few years ago, when we had a marvelous time there, I had every reason to look forward to my stay.

I’m happy to report that the return visit was even better than my first time at Chindeni. Of course, there is a degree of bias and personal preferences, likes and dislikes involved. Making a value judgement about a safari property is a subjective process and two people spending the same two nights at a given property may end up with quite different opinions, at the end of it.

Photo courtesy of Bushcamp Company

Beyond the physical product (rooms, facilities, common areas, location, accessibility) I tend to put a heavy emphasis on the quality of the guiding and I also look at the staff dynamic. What you want to see and experience are a bunch of happy, positive people who are always around and for whom nothing is too much trouble. Not a good sign? Staff that are aloof and hardly ever to be seen. Chindeni cleared this hurdle with ease. A happier, more content staff complement would be hard to find. Clearly management is doing all the right things. As we were to find out, our professional guide Peter Milanzi, was also the manager of Chindeni. You could not ask for a nicer person or a more competent, all-round guide than Peter.

Photo courtesy of Bushcamp Company

How does a camp earn bonus points in my little black book? Wildlife in camp. Once again, Chindeni ticked the right box: there were no less than four lions right along the path just outside the camp, upon our arrival, two of which happened to be a mating pair. Having big cats in camp definitely gets you a gold star!

After a cup of tea and a snack, we went back to the lions. Predictably, they were sleeping. Even so, there was a hint of excitement in the air as there was a good-sized buffalo herd crossing the road about 50 to 100 meters behind the lions. All this barely 500 meters out of camp. We were hoping that the lions would live up to their reputation of being opportunistic when it comes to hunting, but alas, we were disappointed. As a consolation prize, I got some photographs of the buffaloes.

Photo courtesy of Bushcamp Company

A bit later we found a large male leopard on an anthill, in decent light. More good photos, particularly after the leopard relocated from within a thicket to a more open spot. Sometimes the safari gods play along. Then it was time to enjoy sundowners overlooking an oxbow lagoon with the Chindeni Hills in the background. Is there a better way to end a day on safari in Africa? I doubt it.

Remarkably, we experienced all of this without seeing even one other vehicle. As we were to see here and again, later on our trip in Kafue and the Lower Zambezi, Zambia can still deliver a safari experience harking back to the Africa of old where 2021 might as well have been 1921. If there’s not a vehicle in sight, or any signs of modern civilization, time is reduced to where the sun is sitting at any given moment. No villages or power lines, no cattle or goats. Just the wilderness – and you.

South Luangwa National Park is legendary for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost always within hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. Hardly surprising, given that they can be heard as much as a mile away. Chindeni is well away from the main river but we could still hear them in the distance, at night.

After a rather uneventful night drive, we were back in camp just after 7pm for dinner. A delicious soup to start, served with freshly baked bread rolls. The main course was an elaborate Mongolian stir-fry, a culinary and visual extravaganza. This most memorable of meals was finished off with a tasty flan. Of all the safari operators who hosted us on this trip, the Bushcamp Company was the clear ‘winner’ in terms of special events & surprises, such as sundowners served in a scenic location and meals prepared and served al fresco, in a bush setting.

Walking is central to the safari experience in Zambia yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. Most camps do the walking excursions early in the morning as it does get hot later in the day. And so it was the following morning when we were up at 0530 for our second South Luangwa foot safari, this time with our guide Peter. After a long day in the car the previous day, it was really nice to be out on foot again.

If nothing else, a foot safari is always great exercise. But there’s more: signs, tracks, plants, trees, birds – and animals. On this two hour walk we saw giraffes (close up), elephants (we had to divert around some), lots of antelope including a kudu, and baboons.

Sundowners this evening were served in the shallow waters of the Kapamba River, close to its confluence with the Luangwa. It was fun and different. Wading into the cool water and feeling the soft sand between your toes is a special treat. I had seen many photographs of the Kapamba River sundowners over the years and it was really good to finally experience this myself.

Legendary Lodge

During the course of the two days or so which we spent in the Bushcamp Company area, we managed to find time for site inspections at four other bush camps and Mfuwe Lodge:

Kuyenda: This small 4-roomed camp is not right on the Luangwa River but close. Set beneath shady trees by the Manzi River, it felt very intimate, a real bush camp. Quite noticeably, there was plenty of wildlife around the camp.

Chamilandu: This tiny bushcamp – which has just 3 stilted ‘tree-house’ rooms – is beautifully located on the edge of the Luangwa River. The usual sequence of activities is to do walking in the morning, and game drives in the afternoon.

Kapamba: This 4-roomed bush camp combines the isolation and superb game-viewing opportunities of a true bushcamp with a touch of luxury. Two of the rooms – on the outer edges of the camp – have sleep-out areas. The rooms don’t cost more, they simply have to be requested in advance. Kapamba is known for getting a high percentage of return visitors. Set on the banks of the shallow, spring-fed Kapamba River, game drives are done mostly towards the south in the direction of the Luangwa River.

Bilimungwe: Set beneath a huge mahogany tree, the heart of Bilimungwe is the cool, shady lounge area that looks out over one of the camp’s three waterholes. The four raised thatched rooms are comfortable – even a bit luxurious – but retaining an authentic bush camp feel. Like the other bush camps, Bili offers walking safaris, day and night game drives, and sundowners on the river’s edge.

Villa Maua

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Mfuwe Lodge: On our way out of the South Luangwa, en route to Kafue, we checked out Mfuwe Lodge, where Kathy and I had spent some time a few years ago. Set in the most prolific game area of the South Luangwa National Park, Mfuwe Lodge is the perfect place to start and finish your journey to the bush camps. Its eighteen air-conditioned chalets are arranged around the banks of two lagoons where a stream of wildlife will keep you entertained. The large, airy interior of the lodge blends quite seamlessly into its natural surroundings.

The Mfuwe region of the park is renowned for its prolific game, and as a result giraffe, hippos, buffalo, antelope, and crocodile are constant visitors to Mfuwe Lodge’s lagoon. In the month of November the local elephants regularly wander right through the lobby, lured by a nearby wild mango tree. Whether you stay overnight, or just have lunch en route to a bush camp, Mfuwe Lodge’s relaxed charm and enviable surroundings make it the perfect stopover.

Photo courtesy of Bushcamp Company

A new addition to Mfuwe Lodge is the well-appointed director’s room, a 2-bedroomed thatched unit which comes with its own swimming pool, private dining and private guide and is ideal for families or 2 couples who are friends wanting total privacy. It also has a small gym.

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@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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