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Cape Town area sightseeing

3rd November 2021

Cape Town area sightseeing

It’s hard to find fault with Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘Mother City’. After all, it is one of the prettiest cities in the world. It starts with Table Mountain as the perfect backdrop, Table Bay in the foreground, the Atlantic Ocean, Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, the captivating Victoria & Alfred Waterfront with its working harbor and yacht basin – and builds from there. In every direction, there is something interesting to see and to experience, from penguins to pedigree wines, endemic fynbos plant species to fantastic restaurants.

Cape Town is diverse, it’s exciting and it’s different.  Read most of the street signs in the downtown area and you could easily imagine being in Amsterdam.  Many buildings, statues and monuments harken back to the city’s earlier days under first Dutch and then English rule.  Cape Town appeals to any and every traveler, no matter what their specific interests or passions may be.  Wine aficionados, foodies, ‘culture vultures’, exercise and adventure junkies, gardening enthusiasts,  amateur naturalists, photographers at any level, birdwatchers, hikers and climbers, sailing enthusiasts, beach people, artistic types, history buffs, artists – there is something of interest for the  entire spectrum of visitors.  That applies to residents as well, naturally.

Listen to the people around you in Cape Town and you’ll begin to appreciate the diversity and complexity of the city’s make-up: you’ll hear a lot of Afrikaans spoken – and much of that in a distinctive local dialect. English is widely spoken too, and a visitor can rely on getting around and finding assistance and answers to questions, in English. In communities like Langa and Nyanga, the predominantly African inhabitants speak mostly Xhosa. Beyond that, you will hear smatterings of European languages like German, Dutch and French in places like Sea Point, Hout Bay and elsewhere. English with a distinctive American accent? At any of the V & A Waterfront hotels.

Did I mention that it is difficult to find negatives about the city? To be sure, there are a few. The winter months, notably June, July & August can be dismal as the city has a winter rainfall climate, unlike practically the entire rest of South Africa. Where the winters can be cold, but dry. So only and mostly in the Southwestern Cape can it be cold, rainy and windy – often simultaneously – in the winter months. Winter storms can be intense with high winds and sometimes heavy rain, but mostly temperatures are moderate (with highs barely in the 50’s F) with light rain and mist.

Cape Town’s traffic issues are nowadays just as bad as those in the much larger metropolis of Johannesburg. Driving out of the city in rush hour – particularly on Fridays – can be a total bear. Of course, being a visitor, you can mostly avoid traveling during peak traffic hours. Unless your flight to your next destination departs in the early evening. In that case, allow yourself plenty of time to get to the airport. Cape Town’s formerly excellent local rail service has fallen on hard times and in general the public transport services are negatively affected by crime, vandalism and protests. Fortunately Uber is ubiquitous and cheap so by all means use it to get around town. Your hotel or guest house can also assist you in arranging a permitted taxi if you prefer that option.

Cape Town can get rather too busy for some people, from about mid-December through early January. During the high holiday season it is jam-packed with up-country visitors (look for the telltale Gauteng license plates) and with international visitors from all over the world and the rest of Africa. It can be tough to get into the better restaurants, there is a huge line at the lower cable car station, getting in and out of the Waterfront area can be a mission, and popular tourist sites like the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Kirstenbosch and the Boulders Beach penguin colony and many of the wineries, are crowded. If you are able to travel either before or after the holiday season, do it.

So what are our recommendations for visitors for things to do and see in the space of a few days in Cape Town? Here are some of them:

IN AND AROUND THE CITY
Take the revolving cable car ride to the summit of Table Mountain. Do this at the first best opportunity, whenever the mountain is ‘open’ and the cable car is operating. Don’t wait until your last day as conditions sometimes change within hours and the cable car operation shuts down when the wind velocity is too high or because of poor visibility. Weather-related shutdowns can sometimes stretch into a couple of days, so drop whatever else you have planned, and go up the mountain if and when it is open. Early mornings are best to avoid the crowds. Definitely consider hiking either up or down – more about that later in the blog.

Visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – it is a jewel. Don’t miss the Boomslang canopy walk, the Cycad amphitheatre with dinosaur sculptures, and the Protea garden. If you have half a day for this, that would be ideal, but if all you have are two or three hours, it would still be worth it.

Take a guided Peninsula tour including Hout Bay, Chapman’s Peak Drive, Kommetjie, the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (take the funicular to the lookout point), and the African Penguins at Boulders. If you have time, a guided half day City Tour is also most enjoyable. You may prefer to take a tour on the ‘Hop on Hop off’ City sightseeing bus.

Visit the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for some interesting walks along the breakwater, shopping (of course), visiting one or more of the huge variety of restaurants and pubs, and check out the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Set aside an hour or two for a stroll – or better yet a run – along the Sea Point Promenade. There’s beautiful vistas over the ocean, the people-watching is equally intriguing and you’ll get some exercise. You can start from the V & A Waterfront and make your way up as far as Bantry Bay, if you are not pressed for time.

Make some time for Cape Town’s beautiful beaches such as Clifton, Muizenberg and Camps Bay, particularly in the warmer summer months from October through April.

Stroll the Company’s Garden area where there are several worthwhile museums; the ‘top’ entrance is just across the street from the Mt. Nelson Hotel. Which – incidentally – has the best high tea in Southern Africa, if you’re feeling peckish.

Get your cultural card stamped with a visit to the Zeitz MOCAA Museum (Silo Hotel); Irma Stern Museum, Iziko South African (Natural History) Museum, SA National Gallery, SA Jewish Museum, or District Six Museum.

Visit Robben Island by ferry boat. While this is ordinarily a worthwhile trip, we have misgivings about recommending it due to perennial management problems. Ferries are known to run late, are canceled last minute and the like. So best to gather some local (up to date) intel on the status of the operation, before you buy your ticket.

In search of a bargain or a local curiosity? Browse the Long Street and GreenMarket Square markets – this can be done in conjunction with visiting the Company’s Garden.

Visit the Castle of Good Hope Museum; be sure to take in the ‘changing of the guard’ and visit the William Fehr art exhibit inside the building, as well as the Cape Military Museum.

Take a guided walking tour of the The Bo-Kaap area  for colorful homes and Cape Malay cooking.

OUTSIDE OF CAPE TOWN:
By all means embark on a guided Cape winelands tour. Franschhoek, about a 45 minute drive from Cape Town, is the most interesting of the winelands towns but Stellenbosch and Paarl have their own appeal and there are superb wineries everywhere. Enjoy lunch with a view at Delaire Graff Estate between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The Cape Fold mountains – which dominate much of the winelands – together with the vineyards and signature Cape Dutch architecture make this a picturesque area well worth visiting even for visitors who are not at all into wines.

Take an uber or taxi ride from Cape Town to Kalk Bay village for lunch at the Brass Bell; or include it in your touring arrangements.

Visit Constantia Valley near Cape Town for some of the oldest wineries in the area, such as the imposing Groot Constantia; be sure to leave some time for the Norval Foundation Art Gallery, opposite the US Embassy.

Take a trip to the 12 Apostles Hotel for sunset drinks – it’s the perfect spot to see the sun settle over the Atlantic Ocean.

SOUTHERN CAPE (HERMANUS AREA)
Travel to Gansbaai for shark diving. Presently, the great white sharks are not around in big numbers, but there are several other resident shark species to be seen. The nearby town of Hermanus is known for the ‘marine big five’ which include the South African Fur Seal, the Southern Right Whale, African Penguin, Great White Shark and Bottle-nosed Dolphin. The town of Hermanus becomes a mecca of whale-watching when the Southern Right Whales are around, from about June through November. October is whale month so schedule your visit then, if you want to be sure of seeing these giant creatures – and their little ones – breach or simply frolic around.

TABLE MOUNTAIN AND OTHER HIKING OPTIONS
Table Mountain dominates Cape Town in every way; it is the city’s signature natural feature and no visit to Cape Town is truly complete without involving the mountain in some way or other. While it is perfectly ok to travel to the summit of Table Mountain on the Cable Car, we would recommend adding at least one activity involving a hike on the lower slopes of the mountain – or all the way to the top.

We work with a simply fantastic hiking guide in Cape Town – Lauren Medcalf of Mother City Hikers – for Table Mountain hiking and nature walks.

Lauren recommends doing a hike as one of the first things, after arriving in Cape Town. It really helps to ground you, it gets the cobwebs out after the long flights and helps you feel awake, alive and ready for the rest of your Cape Town stay. Lauren says that many guests who hike with her at the end of their trip tell her how they wish they’d done it at the beginning as they learned so much that was useful for the rest of their stay.

If you arrive sometime in the morning into Cape Town you could do an afternoon hike, or alternatively the next morning or afternoon. If you want to incorporate Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, Lauren could take you around the gardens for an easy walk of 45 minutes to an hour to see the highlights. From there, you would then hike up to the contour path and over and back down to the gardens. This hike only goes one third to one quarter of the way up that (Eastern) side of the mountain so it is not intense but you would get an idea and feeling of the mountain and nature around. This generally takes 3-4 hours to complete.

Other options are:

Pipe Track:
A truly beautiful +/- 3 hour route (also only going one third of the way to the top of Table Mountain), very quiet and peaceful and with lots of interesting plants to see, touch & even taste along the way. The turn-around point is at a cave-like ‘Overhang’ where hikers spend a few minutes just taking in the views and enjoying a snack and drinks.

Lions Head:
An amazing +/- 3 hour route, adventurous and beautiful. The only drawback is that it can be busy with lots of people on it, particularly on Saturday and Sunday. On either of those days, be prepared to be picked up from your hotel really early (5:00 am) in order to avoid the foot traffic.

If you want to do something a bit more challenging, then the Platteklip Gorge hike is the least challenging of the hikes which take you all the way to the top of the mountain. Anybody who is moderately fit and without major mobility or other medical issues can do it. About 3 to 4 hours, from the base of the mountain to the summit. Platteklip is not the most scenic of the various hiking options, but a great hike nonetheless. Once it opens up (last third of the hike) there are some fabulous views. This hike is also extremely popular so again, an early start is advisable. It is mostly exposed to the sun so be prepared for that.

Experienced hikers may want to tackle Nursery Ravine or Skeleton Gorge (from Kirstenbosch) or India Venster. Skeleton Gorge is beautiful with many small ‘box ravine’ pockets, seemingly with their own micro-climate. The hike is well-protected from the elements including the sun, with long stretches through Afro-montane forest. It is a long hike, particularly if your final destination is the upper cable car station. India Venster demands a bit more in the way of strength and agility, and I probably wouldn’t advise it for first-timers. A fear of heights would be a disqualifier as well. Otherwise it is an absorbing, fun hike and you will look back on it with a great sense of achievement. I have personally done all of these hikes so feel free to call me or email me if you have any questions.

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Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

28th October 2021

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Dumatau Camp, Linyanti Concession, Botswana

Over the years we have enjoyed some of our best game-viewing and most memorable sightings in the Linyanti-Selinda-Kwando region of Northern Botswana. Huge concentrations of elephants, leopards mating, lions hunting, a cheetah kill, African painted dogs pretty much every time – we’ve seen it all in this area.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

Wilderness Safaris’ Dumatau Camp in particular, has consistently remained high on the list of our favorite camps in Botswana. Set in an ecotone where several habitats intersect – in this case riverine bush and thickets, grassy floodplain and mopane woodland –  the area is a haven for wildlife, particularly in the dry season from about June through October.  The only time that we were disappointed with the quantity of animals there, was during an early December trip when the area had experienced significant early summer rainfall. This disperses the elephants which means that they are not congregated along the Linyanti River and hence not easy to see.  Likewise, the thick bush makes game-viewing for smaller mammals problematic, as it is just downright impossible to see anything in the thickets.  So our best advice is to visit Dumatau no sooner than June and no later than October, to maximize the game-viewing potential.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On our very first visit to Dumatau, one night during pre-dinner drinks around the (then) ground-level fireplace in front of the dining room, the mellow atmosphere was rudely shattered when a kudu burst out of the bush into a clearing on our right. Wide-eyed and frantic, it stared at us for a split-second and then scrambled around the fireplace, closely pursued by a female lion. It happened so quickly that we were frozen to the spot, looking at each other in disbelief. The kudu got away, but the incident was much discussed over dinner.


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The following day, an afternoon game drive along the tree-line provided some excellent close up views of lions which were lying up at the base of an anthill. This particular pride consisted of three young males, three females and three young cubs. We marvelled at the close-up views, scrutinizing scars both old and new on the bluish-golden skin and trying to fathom the intent of the flat glare in the several sets of yellow eyes fixed on us.


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From there we drove down to the Zibadianja Lagoon, where there were literally masses of elephants drinking at the waterside, one group changing places with another in what seemed like a carefully choreographed parade. More and more elephants would emerge from the trees, speeding up as they caught sight of the water. There was dust and water flying everywhere and with the sun setting in the background, it became a tableau of silhouettes against hazy, golden light. Very ‘Africa’.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

We stopped for a while at a hide overlooking the source of the Savuti Channel, identifying a variety of wading birds and watching a pod of hippopotamus, to use the currently popular collective term. As our guide had predicted, one of the hippos performed a maneuver which none of us had ever seen before: it rolled around completely from a standing position, flashing its short, stocky legs and pale pinkish belly. It was now late afternoon and the hippos were starting to stir, calling at each other in anticipation or preparation of emerging from the water for their nightly foraging.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

At around 10 pm most of the guests were again assembled around the open fire. Tim and Robin were the first ones to say good night, preparing to return to tent # 3. They declined an offer from one of the guides to accompany them to their tent. “We’ll be fine, it’s not far,” said Robin as they took their flashlight and started up the path. “That’s what the last nice couple said,” the guide joked. Because of the earlier activity in camp, a guide went ahead to check the path anyway. There was a pride of nine lions not 10 meters away, busy crossing the path, the males so big they had to duck under the balustrades. Watching the lions move away we all made mental notes never to decline an escorted walk back to one’s tent at night. When we later heard that Dumatau means ‘roar of the lion’, we were not surprised.


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What can be said about Dumatau, can be said about Northern Botswana.  Every trip we take there underscores our long-held opinion that it is one the best game-viewing destinations in Africa.  On our best ever 10-day Botswana trip, Kathy and I saw close to 50 lions – twice seen hunting – once for buffalo and the other time for kudu. We observed leopards on three different occasions including one with the remains of an impala in a tree and another one with a youngster frolicking alongside. African wild dogs were likewise seen three times, once just seconds after they had taken down an impala; and cheetah twice, the latter sighting of a female knocking down and ‘delivering’ an impala to her five youngsters. She patiently waited in the shade until they had their fill, before she moved in and fed herself, keeping a wary lookout as the vultures started moving in. There were many other fantastic sightings including scores of elephants, magnificent sable antelope, a martial eagle on a fresh impala kill, an incredible scene at one of the camps with as many as 23 giraffe in one area, all staring at two cheetahs walking by; some superb night drives (including my first ever sighting of aardwolf ), and more. 


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

On a recent trip (July 2021), Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and Christine spent a couple of nights at the newly rebuilt Dumatau Camp, now solidly in the premier/deluxe category.  The first thing that strikes you on arrival at the new Dumatau is the magnificent main area and location overlooking the Linyanti River.  The deck is large with multiple locations to take a seat and spend some time in between game drives looking for elephants to cross or observing anything that might come to get a drink of water.  The three-sided bar is one of the focal points but there are so many different areas within the main area that it is hard to single any one of them out.  The elongated deck which juts out into the water is also eye-catching and really stands out at night when it is lit by bonfire light.  The rooms are equally breathtaking, very large and luxurious, private plunge pools, snack jars full of dried meat, personal coffee, and other amenities.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

In a nutshell, everything you ever wanted in a safari lodge and more. Elegant, exciting, fun to hang out in, an inviting bar plus several cozy, secluded corners for private dinners. You could spend three nights here without having two meals in the same spot. The variety of food, preparation and presentation were excellent and every bit the equal of several deluxe properties we had visited previously.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

The main pool is just a short walk from the main area on the elevated boardwalk.  During the warmer months it would be an ideal place to relax and pass some time while reading a book, always with one eye towards the river lest you miss something.  The gift/curio shop is just adjacent and the spa is a short stroll away.  

Villa Maua


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

But beyond just being fun and exciting, we enjoyed the beautiful surroundings and the complete privacy. There was not a person or another boat to be seen or heard in any direction. We had miles and miles of river, marsh and lagoon all to ourselves. That is what makes the private concessions in northern Botswana so special. You just flat-out don’t have to deal with anything like the numbers of visitors and presence of other vehicles which often mar the experience in other more heavily visited safari destinations.


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Photo by Wilderness Safaris

An interesting activity which we tried out for an hour or so is a launch or pontoon cruise. The vessel which takes up to 15 or so passengers is able to cruise along the Linyanti River comfortably and smoothly, either up or downstream from Dumatau, and is ideal for brunch or sundowner outings.  In fact we were able to watch our chef prepare the food for us on a small open fire just behind us on the boat.  We would encourage all our clients to try this activity at some time during their stay at Dumatau. The pontoon boat provides a safe and stable platform from which to view and photograph hippos and crocodiles, and it is perfect for observing elephants swimming across the river, fortunately a fairly frequent occurrence in the dry season.  

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Zarafa Camp, Selinda – Botswana

21st October 2021

Zarafa Camp, Selinda – Botswana

I experienced the magic of Zarafa some years ago when I traveled to Zarafa by boat from Selinda. It was an interesting and sometimes adventurous journey. The skipper on the typical aluminum skiff (seemingly in use everywhere in Northern Botswana) had his hands full finding his way through some thick reed patches. Every now and then he’d run into a dead end or an impenetrable patch, and we’d have to divert. Without too much of a delay, though, we made it there and it was definitely worth the trip.

Zarafa has very impressive, massive rooms, essentially three tents stitched together, resting on a raised reclaimed railway sleeper deck. The camp has an old-fashioned 1920’s safari feel complete with safari equipment such as a professional quality Canon camera and premium binoculars in a foot locker. It epitomizes the romantic Botswana safari touch, much sought after by so many visitors to the area.

Being a runner, I was thrilled to see – and utilize – the outdoor gym with its treadmill which looks out over the floodplain. On safari, exercise options are scarce so I was really happy to be able to fit in a couple of 5k runs, during my stay. Beyond that, the main camp area has a sizable main lounge, a library, dining area and bush boutique. Despite its luxury appointments, Zarafa Camp maintains the perfect balance between luxury and adventure. In line with Great Plains Conservation’s ethos and practice at all their camps, Zarafa has sterling environmental credentials. The camp’s construction consists of recycled hardwoods and canvas. All the camp’s electricity comes from its solar farm, and a biogas system converts vegetable waste into usable cooking gas.

On their more recent visit this summer, Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and Christine arrived in more typical fashion: on a light air transfer from Great Plains’ Duba Plains camp, with a quick stop to pick up some guests at Khwai. All in all the trip took a little less than an hour. On arrival they were met by their guide Joseph who drove them the short distance to the camp.

Here are Lyndon’s impressions of the property: “Zarafa has an elegant presence overlooking the Selinda Spillway. The rooms are luxuriously appointed. I really liked their open and bright layout with the sunlight filling the room.

At the entrance of the rooms are those large wooden doors you might see around Zanzibar. In the first section of the lounge there’s a leather couch and chairs, mini-bar and tea station, a trunk with among other things some yoga mats and a set of binoculars for the room. There is also a charging station and a desk and chair which comes in handy for the occasional journal entry. Outside the tent? A plunge pool and a couple of lounge chairs. Through a partition is the other half of this splendid room. A king size bed lies in the middle, the sink and shower a bit further in. Between them is a novelty, a gas-powered flame room-heater. Useful during the cold winter nights and mornings.

As we experienced at the other Botswana and Great Plains camps the hospitality is excellent. The entire camp staff is so genuinely friendly and quick to assist in any way. By the end of our stay we were sad to have to say our goodbyes to everyone.

The concession where game drives are conducted is quite different than at Duba. This area is not directly within the Delta although it is traversed by Delta water in the form of the Selinda spillway. The concession has both large dry areas and large wet areas where the river forms sizable lagoons before continuing into various smaller channels. Much of the general game is similar (to the Delta) with the area dominated by red lechwe and a healthy population of elephants.

We were fortunate on our first game drive to arrive in front of a large body of water just as a family of elephants came in from the mopane forest for their evening drink. They had some very young ones with them and while our presence was tolerated it was evident that the older females did not appreciate it. No worries as long as the animals are not startled by sudden movement or loud noise. Elephants, especially in large numbers, are endlessly entertaining and 15 minutes can turn into an hour in the blink of an elephant’s eye, to get you lost in quiet observation.

Zarafa’s meals were patterned along the same lines as Duba which meant we were served a delicious combination of four salads and one protein for brunch. Dinners were excellent. On our first night I had a ‘melt in your mouth’ beef filet and the next night some very tender pork. I can say with certainty that all the Great Plains properties served some of the finest if not the finest meals I have had while on safari.

As a whole the game viewing wasn’t quite at the level of Duba Plains but it is still top notch and the highlights from Zafara stack up with anywhere else. One morning our guide spotted a female lion in the distance on an island. We crossed some high water to discover that she had four young cubs with her. Then her stance flipped from relaxed to focused as she spotted a lechwe that had become separated and hence vulnerable. We watched in awe as she slowly stalked the antelope while her cubs seemed on the precipice of ruining all her work by frolicking and playing with each other. In the end it was not enough to save the lechwe and we saw in the distance as the lion made its move. It had gotten quite close and after a short chase brought down its prey masterfully. Truly stunning to watch from beginning to end.

After a show like that we assumed we had used up our fair share of luck for the day, or perhaps week, so when Joseph spotted some leopard tracks we were pleasantly surprised. He went on to track it for what seemed to be an eternity. Then he took out his binoculars to scan the area and spotted the quarry sitting still in a bush on a raised mound. A singular guiding accomplishment! We again crossed some deep water and again watched as the cat spotted a potential meal. This time the antelope – a reedbuck – spotted the lurking danger and escaped. We followed as the leopard skulked off and eventually found a tree to its liking that it hopped onto, posing for some pictures on each branch.

We were also able to do an evening boat activity from which we observed three adult male elephants feeding on floating grass and water lilies in some deep water. One in particular made for a great photo opportunity as many of the lilies got tangled up on his tusks, as he continued to feed. On the same ride my wife and I did a little bit of fishing. Each of us caught a couple of tiger fish even though they become more active in the hotter months such as September and October.

It was another fantastic stay with Great Plains and I am coming home very impressed with the experience. They really checked all the boxes and if you are able to work in some of their camps in future itineraries, I am sure you will feel similarly.”

A CHEETAH HUNT – AND KILL
On Bert’s earlier visit to Zarafa, he witnessed his first cheetah kill. Here is how it went down:

Our afternoon game drive was uneventful to start. Some giraffe, kudu, impala, zebra, wildebeest – the usual suspects. Then we drove into an area which looked very promising for cheetah and lo & behold during a short stop looking for something else I picked up a cheetah in the binoculars, while scanning the terrain! There they were, a coalition of two males: not at all fussed with our presence. We followed them around and watched them settle in, at least for a while, on a large termite mound. Soon enough the light started to fade and we headed back to camp. En route, we were treated to a very enjoyable bush sundowner.

The following day was one of my best days on safari yet in Botswana. We headed out fairly early that morning to see if the cheetah brothers were still around. Taking our cue from some staring giraffes, we soon located them sleeping in a small depression not too far from where we had left them the previous day. We then proceeded to stay with the cheetah from about 0800 until past 1100. It was clear that the cheetah were – at least initially – not in a good position to hunt. There was a lot of open flat terrain between them and their prey species which included impala, young zebra and juvenile wildebeest. So if the cheetah commenced a hunt, the zebra would no doubt bolt and scatter all the other game as well.

As a result the cheetah took their time and it wasn’t until well after 11 that morning that they made their move. First they moved to a different position under a tree, and rested there for quite a while until the zebra had moved out of sight.

Then – as if by unspoken signal – the cheetahs got up and started walking deliberately towards the line of vegetation where there were several impala visible. Suddenly the cheetah accelerated, the impala scattered and I momentarily lost the big picture, just catching a glimpse of a cheetah wheeling to the left, its tail wildly swinging to the right as it honed in on a fleeing animal temporarily obscured behind a bush.

Our guide started up the vehicle and we raced to the scene. Just 20 seconds later we came up on the impala which had been taken down. One of the cheetahs had it in a death grip with its jaws clamped around the impala’s throat, suffocating the hapless animal which was no doubt in a state of severe shock, unable to feel pain. Almost simultaneously the cheetahs started to feed on the impala which they had by now dragged into cover, so as to avoid being seen by other land predators or from the air by bateleur eagles or vultures.

At first one and then another would act as a sentry of sorts. Interestingly they did not use their paws in the act of feeding; just their jaws, head and neck being in motion.

It was truly an awesome spectacle to behold and to listen to and we spent the better part of 20 minutes watching as they devoured a good chunk of the impala, occasionally lifting their bloodstained heads to momentarily stare outwards, before lowering them again and tearing away yet another mouthful. I could see one of the cheetahs considering opening a new spot on the impala’s yet unmarked shoulder. After one or two half-hearted bites he just walked away from the carcass, clearly having reached the point of satiety.

We were getting somewhat peckish ourselves by then, so we left the cheetah in peace and returned to camp for brunch.

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Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

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Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau and the Botswana Zebra Migration

Ask any African wildlife photographer about their favorite animal to photograph and you might be surprised to see how high zebras rank.  These peculiar white and black striped mammals are among the most recognizable and most photographed of African animals.  Get a few of them together in the same frame, add some action and maybe some dust for added drama – and let the fun begin.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Few places in Africa are quite as well located as Leroo La Tau in central Botswana, to realize one’s ultimate zebra photography scenario.  The appeal of this Kalahari camp is closely intertwined with the enigmatic Boteti River which flows right below the camp.   As many as 30,000 zebras annually migrate between the Makgadikgadi Pans and the Okavango Delta, many passing through this area. In the dry season from about June through November the  Boteti is one of the only permanent water sources on their way, and acts like a magnet for thirsty zebras.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Leroo La Tau is built on cliffs some thirty feet above the banks of the Boteti,  offering a vantage point over  the river and the Makgadikgadi Pans to the east.  The best place in camp to make the most of the zebra migration – and to capture photographs of all the other animals and birds attracted to the water – is the camp’s enclosed hide, from where you have an eye-level view across the Boteti.  A bunch of zebras all lining up to drink at the same time, two young stallions standing up on their hind legs, biting and kicking – the photo opportunities come hard and fast. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

The Boteti River is the main outflow of the Okavango Delta, collecting the water that flows past Maun and from there it meanders about 150 miles to Lake Xau on the extreme south-western edge of the great Makgadikgadi salt pans.  While it is currently flowing, that wasn’t always the case.  For a period of about 20 years, ending in 2009, the Boteti had largely dried up,  with just a few waterholes in the riverbed which offered refuge to a small pod of landlocked hippos, together with some crocodiles which became completely terrestrial, making dens in riverbank ‘caves’ downriver from the lodge.


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For now, the river again provides a lifeline for the wide range of wildlife which inhabit the arid Makgadikgadi national park and is a critical link in the spectacular zebra migration.  From December through March – essentially the wet months in the Kalahari – the  zebras seek out the nutritious grasses surrounding the Makgadikgadi Pans.  During this time there is a shallow layer of water over the salt pans, which attract a large number of migrating birds such as flamingoes.  All the more reason to spend some time around the pans then.


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

Around March or so – depending on the timing of the rain – the zebras edge towards the western edge of Makgadikgadi Pans National Park before setting off towards the Okavango Delta and  Moremi Game Reserve.  Their next stop:  the Boteti – and Leroo La Tau.   

On our most recent visit in July, we reached the camp after a flight of about 40 minutes (just slightly longer than the average Botswana light air transfer), followed by a 20-minute drive from the airstrip to the camp.  


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

We found the main area to be very appealing.  It is two stories high and has a well-placed fire pit right on the river.  The lodge features twelve luxurious thatched and glass-fronted suites with en-suite bathrooms, each unit raised on a wooden platform overlooking the Boteti River Valley below. The rooms are well spread out, spacious and have killer views over the river.  The main lounge and dining area, with its inviting wooden and thatch finish, is a great spot to spend some time relaxing at  the bar or enjoying the excellent food offerings. Alternatively you can lounge around the swimming pool or enjoy the views from the game-viewing hide built into the bank of the river.


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On a previous trip, we visited Leroo La Tau during the ‘Green Season’ which runs from December to March, when game-viewing isn’t quite as productive as it is during the dry months.   Even so, we enjoyed some good sightings of kudu, lion and elephant, amongst others.  In fact, we had some great views of a black-maned Kalahari lion in his prime. 


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

After dinner at Leroo La Tau on that visit, members of the staff entertained guests with a singing and dancing performance. This does not happen every night, so we were quite pleased to be treated to several traditional songs, done in a sweetly harmonious fashion. I think we were all struck by the wonderful attitude of the staff at this camp, everybody smiling all the time!

Prospective visitors would do well to schedule three nights here, and to take a full day trip (with picnic lunch) to Nxai Pan, among others to check out the beautiful Baines’ Baobabs site.  The excursion starts in the early morning with a picnic lunch to be enjoyed while out exploring the salt pans.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo by Desert & Delta Safaris

In addition to game drives – and depending on the water level –  boating trips on the Boteti are also provided. Optional cultural excursions can be arranged to Khumaga Village as well as the previously mentioned day trips to Nxai Pan and Baines Baobabs (for guests staying a minimum of three nights). For those looking for a truly unique experience, the camp can arrange a sleep out under the stars on the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

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Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

7th October 2021

Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi


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Sausage Tree & Chiawa Camps, Lower Zambezi

Over dinner some years ago at the River Club upstream from Vic Falls, I was gently corrected about a comment I had made about the Zambezi River.  “It is the Zambezi.  Not the Zambezi River”.  So it is.  This most African of rivers makes its way all the way from far northern Zambia, right on the border of the Congo, down-stream from west to east, to eventually spill into the Indian Ocean some 1,600 miles from its point of origin.   Having carved its way through some of Africa’s most spectacular places such as Victoria Falls, Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi.


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Photo Sausage Tree

Sausage Tree Camp

This is where I found myself on the last day of July,  on my way to the western portion of the Lower Zambezi National Park, where we would have brief overnight stops at Sausage Tree and Chiawa Camps.  Appropriately, we arrived at Sausage Tree by boat, after an entertaining 20-minute cruise upstream on the Zambezi, from the jetty at Jeki Airstrip.  Practically never out of sight of at least one, sometimes more than one pod of hippo.  Just giving us the intense hippo stare as we moved past them.


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Photo Sausage Tree

The rooms at Sausage Tree were beautiful and spacious.  More like suites than rooms,  they are luxurious custom safari tents with massive gauze windows and sliding doors, with more than adequate fresh air circulating. Nearly hidden from one another, and shaded by mature sausage and mahogany trees, the tents are cool, private sanctuaries to return to for an afternoon siesta or good night’s rest.


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Photo Sausage Tree

Sleeping only 18 guests, Sausage Tree Camp offers a civilized approach to a true bush experience with lavish attention to detail. The central dining and bar area is fronted by an enormous teak deck overlooking the Zambezi. The 25 meter Lap-pool is situated right on the edge of the riverbank, under shading mahogany trees with outstanding views.


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Photo Potato Bush

Canoeing at Sausage Tree Camp

Our afternoon activity, a canoeing outing with head guide Ryan Wilmot, was a highlight of the entire Zambia trip.  I had a comfortable seat in the sturdy Canadian canoe, I stayed totally dry throughout, and did not have to do any paddling.  The camp practice is to have just one guest per canoe, with the paddling done by Ryan (my canoe) and two other canoeing specialist guides, in the other two canoes. 


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Photo Sausage Tree

The canoeing was simply a fantastic experience.  From beginning to end, participants traverse breathtakingly beautiful surroundings, with a profusion of birds, lots of hippos of course, elephants, buffaloes, impala, baboons and monkeys – and more.


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It was exciting and a little intense at times, but I always felt safe.  Clearly, the highly experienced guides were firmly in control.  We did have a couple of relatively close encounters with some hippos, including one brief ‘mock’ charge.  Even so, nothing too alarming, just enervating.


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Photo Chiawa

Chiawa Camp

It took only 15 minutes or so – again by boat, further upstream – from Sausage Tree to Chiawa Camp.  Almost predictably, we could not get to our rooms along the regular path because of elephants in camp. It happened on my previous visit as well. I hope to visit Chiawa one more time before I finally put away my binoculars. Maybe then I can complete a hat trick of having an elephant diversion on arrival!


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Photo Chiawa

As I told  camp manager Simon Douglas when we made our way around the front of the rooms (on the river-side), I always give extra credit to a camp if there are animals around on arrival.  Animals which prevent you from getting to your room?  A double gold star.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo Chiawa

My room #7 at Chiawa was even bigger and better equipped than when Kathy and I spent a couple of days there a few years ago.  Same great views over the Zambezi, same great range of activities (game drives, boating, canoeing, fishing and walking), same superb hospitality and friendliness from everyone whom you meet.

Our stay at Chiawa started with a surprise lunch served while drifting down the Zambezi, on a boat.  A three course meal with perfectly roasted chicken, salad and a dessert.  Simply a delightful experience.

Villa Maua


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Photo Chiawa

In the afternoon we did a game drive which started slow but ended with a bang.  It started with seeing lots of elephants, then a female leopard, followed by two female lions and on the way back an exceptional sighting:  two males leopards getting into a territorial spat, the older, more powerful male chasing the younger one high into a tree.  Once the dominant male got back onto the ground, he gave chase to an inquisitive hyena which hastily beat the retreat.

Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane


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Photo Chiawa

That evening, we were entertained with a few of Chiawa choir’s favorite songs, and then enjoyed our final dinner on safari, in the Chitenge upstairs.  It felt cozy and private – and special.

On our second but last day in Zambia, we were up early for Chiawa’s signature fireside breakfast.  Yoghurt and fruit ‘parfait’, cheese, cold meats, peppadew, hard-boiled eggs, toast over the coals, and oats porridge from a potjie.  That pretty much sets you up for the day.


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Photo Old Mondoro

Old Mondoro

Just after 6 am we took off on a 45-minute boat ride to Old Mondoro for a site inspection.  Old Mondoro appears to be an excellent choice for a typical small (5 room) Zambian bush camp.  The rooms are constructed of treated reeds and canvas, with enough space and with regular toilets and showers (hot water any time).  The camp has an exceptionally appealing dining/lounge area which is open to the river as well as to the rear, facing the bush.  There is almost always something going on inside the camp in terms of wildlife.  


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Photo Old Mondoro

And so it was on the day we were there.  Several elephants were just walking into the camp as we arrived.  This is something which gathers momentum in the August-Sept-Oct time frame when the winter thorn trees (Albidas) start to drop their nutritious pods, much sought after by elephants as well as by impala, kudus, & baboons. 


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Photo Old Mondoro

The camp manager took us around and showed us a couple of rooms along the river on the ‘left’ side of camp, looking from the river to the north.  We particularly liked rooms #4 and #5 and those are the ones we’d recommend for our guests, in future.  


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An African painted dog kill

Eventually, after a cup of tea, we started to make our way to the Jeki airstrip to connect with a charter back to Lusaka.  Along the way, Pearl spotted the same pack of 23 African painted dogs which we had seen three days earlier, upon our arrival in the Lower Zambezi.  They appeared to be in a hunting mode, all of them walking in the same direction with their heads down and their ears back.  And then – action!  The dogs accelerated as if one,  running through the woodland at speed, in pursuit of a group of impala which we could just barely see in the distance.


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And then the unexpected happened.  A troop of baboons panicked and got in the way of the hunting painted dogs.  Which resulted in a disaster befalling one young male baboon which was grabbed by one of the running dogs.  Right in front of us and in a rather graphic and shocking manner, the unfortunate young baboon was torn apart by about four to five African painted dogs.  In a manner of minutes there wasn’t much left at all, of the hapless creature.  Rather an unexpected and unusual turn of events.  We had one last interesting sighting when we had a brief view of a leopard, quite close to Jeki Airstrip. 


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Our great Zambian adventure ended with an uneventful flight back to Lusaka.  We had to spend the last night there at the pleasant Latitude 15 hotel, await the results of a Covid test, and then we would head out the following morning.  To Cape Town in my case – to climb Table Mountain along the India Venster route – and back to the USA for the other two participants on the trip.  

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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