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How to book a better safari

11th November 2021

How to book a better safari

Fish Eagle Safaris’ owner Bert Duplessis and his team at Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. have been helping people plan their African safari trips for more than 30 years, since 1990. Based on all those years of experience and having travelled to practically every major safari destination in Africa themselves – repeatedly – here are their suggestions for making your first – or next – trip as good as it can be.

SPEND MORE TIME IN FEWER AREAS
Making just one change to your African safari itinerary is almost guaranteed to improve it. Spending more days in fewer places. Trying to do too much and cover too much ground on a single Africa trip is a rookie mistake and one you don ‘t have to make. Rushing around from one area to the next is frustrating from a logistical perspective (packing, unpacking, living out of a suitcase), and it costs more on a ‘per diem’ basis due to additional flights, transfers, visas and other expenses. Many properties offer long-stay discounts where they will include one free night if you stay for four, or variations on that theme. Slow down to save money – and enjoy the ride.

Africa is at heart a slow continent, best suited for exploring at a leisurely pace, in keeping with the ambiance of the wilderness which is anything but frenetic. Things happen when they happen. The animals do not have set schedules and they move around in real time. Allow yourself plenty of time to find and see them. Soon enough, you will start understanding and even anticipating behavior and gain insight into how different species interact, both within their own group and towards others. Few things in the wilderness are as fascinating as watching animal interaction such as when one elephant herd encounters another one. It can be amiable – if they have familiar bonds – or tense, if they don’t.

Of course, I soon found out that they were experienced safari aficionados who had traveled all over Africa. They knew exactly what they were up to. They took a day trip up the Rufiji River to Stiegler’s Gorge (still one of my all-time favorite African experiences), spent one night out on a fly-camping expedition, spent a half day fishing, and did not feel compelled to go out on every game drive. When the mood struck them, they’d rather take some time to enjoy the unique pleasure of simply watching the Rufiji River rushing by on its way to the Indian Ocean. With perhaps a cocktail or an icy cold Kilimanjaro lager in hand.

With several full days in any given area, many good things happen. For one thing, you develop a better understanding of the location of a property, where it is relative to other places, what it is close to and hopefully what makes it special. With enough time (or at least more than the usual 2 or 3 nights), you can explore and try out most of the available activities, sometimes even more than once. Enjoy the meerkat interaction at Jack’s Camp in the Kalahari? Well then do it again the next day. And the next – if you’re still there.

Perhaps more importantly still, you will connect with the local guides and camp staff and management, beyond the superficial pleasantries associated with a too-short stay. You’ll get a glimpse into their lives beyond hosting people in camp; learn something about their children, spouse, friends or family. Find out what they are passionate about, their frustrations, and you’re likely to get some invaluable advice about other safari destinations, or help with your photography skills, maybe even learn how to steer a mokoro.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE GUIDING
Traveling on safari with an experienced, qualified guide can be a revelation. A good guide can be supremely knowledgeable about practically everything you see and experience – from butterflies to celestial objects. They can also be funny, helpful, entertaining, protective, and diplomatic. Often all of those. They will usually be keen to help you master a little bit of the local language – Swahili, Setswana, Afrikaans or French, all depending on where you find yourself. They will run interference for you when needed, help you out of a tight spot, lend you some local currency, and may even become a friend for life. They will show you what conservation is really all about and open your eyes to the complexities and challenges of their world.

To become a professional Zimbabwean guide can take from 5 to 7 years and it is an arduous undertaking filled with weeks & months of acquiring and honing skills as diverse as hospitality, mammal and bird identification, safety, firearms proficiency, animal tracking, botany, and much more. You can go out into the wilderness with a professional Zimbabwe guide with full confidence in their ability to keep you safe and to provide you with remarkable insight into what you see and experience, even what to anticipate. The same can be said about proficient guides in other parts of Africa – they are in a class of their own.

A driver who rushes around the Masai Mara, racing from one Big Five sighting to another, is not a guide. A driver who habitually drives right in front of lions or other big cats walking in a specific direction, forcing them to walk around his or her vehicle, is not a guide. A driver who takes unnecessary risks, who is unethical, who routinely positions his or her vehicle in the direct line of sight of other cars, is not a guide. A driver who takes shortcuts and trespasses on ecologically sensitive terrain, in the process leaving marks which may be visible for decades to come, is not a guide.

So, before you sign up for your next trip, make doubly sure that you will be guided by a proper, well-qualified and responsible guide. Not a driver.

MAKE YOUR TRIP YOUR OWN
Finding ‘the best’ African safari for you can be a daunting task, considering the multitude of areas, countries, and types of trips available. The solution? Consult an Africa destination specialist to make your trip your own. At about the same price as the many recycled cookie-cutter trips out there, you can have your own customized itinerary. Designed just for you. As unique as you are, reflecting your interests, your style and what you want to get out of the trip. Want to focus on big cats? Crazy about elephants, or giraffes, or keen on seeing the wildebeest migration? Special interest in birds or photography? A good advisor can help you with any of these, and more. So don’t settle for someone else’s trip, or a paint-by-numbers itinerary which is as predictable as the commute to your office. Talk to an African safari expert and you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised with their creativity and the way in which they can effectively incorporate your preferences and your interests in a sensible yet fun and exciting trip – at a price point of your choice.

GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE – SOMETIMES
A photographic safari is closely associated with game drives. Twice daily, morning and afternoon. Animals become habituated to the presence of the vehicles – meaning they don’t run away when they see one – so most people get their best views and their best photographs or videos, from a vehicle. All very well. It is comfortable, safe, and efficient. Done often enough, it can also become a bit predictable and maybe not quite as exciting as the first time. So what do you do? Get out of the vehicle, naturally. It doesn’t mean going out on a taxing route march, not at all. There are many ways to experience the wilderness and the wildlife from beyond the confines of the trusty Landcruiser.

Do make sure that at least a few ‘out-of-the-vehicle’ options are available on your trip or better yet, that they are already included and specified in your itinerary. Look for activities such as walking, boating, canoe or mokoro excursions, opportunities to observe wildlife from a blind or hide, a forest canopy walk, white-water rafting, perhaps a sundowner cruise on the Zambezi or a helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta. Doing and experiencing things beyond just game drives keep things interesting, add perspective, give you something to do in-between scheduled activities, and the more active pursuits provide a form of exercise. Not many safari properties have gyms or terrain suitable for jogging or running, so any time spent on your own two feet, will help counteract the inevitable weight gain associated with all the food, snacks and beverages constantly on offer.

If you’re keen, and physically capable, you can up the ante a bit with a two- or three-day walking safari in areas like Mashatu in Botswana or in the greater Kruger National Park. With the right guide and at the right time of the year, a foot safari opens a whole new world of experiences, and for many African travelers it ends up being the most memorable part of their stay. It’s quiet – just like the wilderness – and suddenly you will be hearing and seeing things which are quite beyond the scope of a vehicle-based safari. Starting with animal and bird tracks which tell a story of their own and which a skilled guide can weave into a fascinating account. You must be on the ground to experience it close-up. Likewise, the experience of approaching a large breeding herd of buffalo on foot, or tip-toeing to the edge of a dry river-bed to quietly observe elephants digging for water, or rooting around for mineral deposits. The sounds, smells and textures of the bush are out there just waiting to be explored – out of the vehicle.

BE WARY OF LARGE GROUP TRIPS
For me personally, the African safari experience is a very private and personal one. You and the wilderness. Just you – seeing the flat, dispassionate glare in the big yellow eyes of a lion. Just you – watching the dust fly off the leathery hide of an elephant as it cools itself with its gigantic ears. Africa is not someone droning on about a painting, an architectural masterpiece or a moment in history. Yes, there is a place and time for a well-qualified guide to enhance the experience with some judiciously timed interpretative comments. Mostly though, Africa speaks to you directly and quietly. Upon hearing the alarm calls of baboons, the contact calls between wildebeest babies and their mothers, an African Fish Eagle calling, or that most iconic of night-time sounds, the hauntingly evocative braying of zebras. A private moment on your verandah in the fading light of the African day, experiencing a strong sense of deja vu, an inexplicable yet powerful feeling about being part of the environment. Much of what makes an African safari experience unique and memorable is antithetical to having a large group of people around.

Of course, you can experience this with a few family members or friends and in fact having safari companions around can enhance the experience. The anticipation of a morning game drive, the thrill of seeing something special, and the pleasure of going over it again that evening, sharing photos and video clips, having a drink and sharing a meal – all part of the fun of being on safari. Just not a big group.

While some group trips can go well, I would be extremely wary of being bundled into a vehicle with a bunch of strangers, hoping that everyone will still be on speaking terms by the end of Day 5. Unless it is a private group, with a strong and experienced leader, there’s a lot of potential downside traveling with a big bunch of people. Logistical issues, the inertia associated with getting some individuals moving, chronic late-comers, and conflicting demands and expectations. So while group trips can be relatively cheap by African safari standards, as always you get what you pay for.

We’ve seen some sub-standard group itineraries from well-known, successful operators. Inexplicable, even baffling destination & property choices. Visiting areas at completely the wrong time of the year. Spending too much time traveling, or too much time in marginal areas. Some are almost laughably bad. Do your due diligence!

TAKE YOURSELF ON SAFARI, GO ON
An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a great experience for a single traveler. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting, enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere, as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be.

ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Plus, it is safe with minimal time spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports, we include personalized meet and assists.

DON’T LEAVE THE KIDS AT HOME

Children love being on safari so by all means bring them along.   The vast majority of safari camps do a fantastic job to make it a fun and involving experience for all ages.  Children respond well to the genuine warmth of the local staff and guides in the camps.  With almost everything the children see and experience being new or different and outside of their existing frame of reference, it is a wonderful experience for them on many levels.  They have fun, they explore, and they learn.  A lot.

The experience of traveling in Africa on safari is even more meaningful because of its interface with conservation of wildlife and habitat. Even the youngest ones realize that it is a special responsibility which we all share, to safeguard the environment so that future generations might enjoy the same privilege. There are several superb safari regions such as Madikwe, the Eastern Cape and the Waterberg region of South Africa which are malaria-free so that even the youngest ones can go along.

BE SURE TO GET GOOD ADVICE FROM THE RIGHT SOURCE
Is your neighbor who has been on one trip to Africa an expert on African travel? Of course not. And neither are most of the individuals who air their grievances about a travel experience or who seem effusive in their praise for a particular property. Online forums are rife with information and opinions which are biased or even totally untrue.

On the other hand, any one of the 30 members of the Safari Pros Association of North America – of which we are a founding member – can give you a balanced and even-handed appraisal of what to expect, where the real value lies, what to avoid, and what the best places are at certain times of the year. Several Safari Pros members have – like us – spent a lifetime crisscrossing African safari destinations and continually updating their knowledge and experience.

THINK CONSERVATION AND COMMUNITY
From its very inception, Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. has aligned itself with partners such as Wilderness Safaris, Origins Safaris, Nomad Tanzania and others who are 100% committed to sustainable travel practices. Their commitment to conservation is all-encompassing, all the way from decreasing their use of fossil fuels to improving the well-being of the local communities where they operate with funding, research projects, education and employment opportunities. Community involvement and support being vital to reduce poaching & illegal hunting, to preserve and rehabilitate wildlife habitat and to gain local governmental sanction.

In addition to supporting the conservation and community work being undertaken by our African partners – by booking our guests with them – we also consider the conservation practices of individual properties. We are more likely to include camps and lodges which reduce their carbon footprint by switching from fossil fuels to renewable sources of energy such as solar heating, use battery-operated game drive vehicles and boats, recycle waste, practice composting, reduce their water usage, grow their own vegetables and fruit, promote reforestation and habitat restoration and encourage their guests to be green.

As a member of Safari Pros of North America, we work only with partners who strive to conserve the beauty and well-being of the continent and understand the vital role tourism plays in conserving Africa’s wilderness and the livelihood of its people.

By planning your trip with us, you are also supporting numerous (and highly vetted) philanthropic organizations. Our members support (financial and in-kind) a wide range of conservation and community organizations. Your travel choice matters a great deal to Africa’s people and wildlife.

THE LAST WORD
Recently, when writing to us about how much she enjoyed her first trip to Africa, a client of ours added this: “On our last flight (from Vic Falls to Jo’burg), I was seated next to a woman who had been on a trip that she found endlessly disappointing.” Don’t end up being that person. Look at our suggestions, give us a call or send us an e-mail. We can and will help you book a better safari.

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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

1st October 2021

Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia
OFF TO THE LOWER ZAMBEZI


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Tusk & Mane, Lower Zambezi – Zambia

Off to the Lower Zambezi

Every once in a while, I walk into a safari camp which captivates me from the word go.  Most recently, it was Tusk and Mane’s Kutali Camp on a small island in the Zambezi River in Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park.  After missing an entire season due to the pandemic, the camp had been experiencing good occupancy lately and we arrived in what was a full camp, in July. Not surprisingly, there was a buzz in the air.  Lots of smiles all round, a sense of relief and a growing realization that things were going to be ok – soon.  All was not lost.  Pristine wilderness areas like this one would once again be hosting appreciative visitors from all over the world.  


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Kutali Tent credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

It’s really easy to like or even love Kutali.  The camp has the most perfect setting right on the edge of the Zambezi – in one direction – and a simply fantastic forest of winterthorn trees in every other direction.  All throughout the day from first light until the last bird calls fade away after sunset, the forest takes on a different look and feel.  Mysterious, somber, brooding – its mood changes as the sunlight comes and goes.  The Lower Zambezi is known for magnificent stands of winterthorn and other trees, but few can match the exquisite forest which pervades Kutali with a little bit of magic and tons of atmosphere.


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Luke and Kyle credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans

Kyle Branch and Luke Evans personify Tusk and Mane, their safari company operating in one of Africa’s top safari destinations, Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Kyle and Luke are both young, personable and full of energy and at the vanguard of a much needed ‘back to the basics’ safari philosophy.  For them, it is all about what happens outside the tent.  They are passionate about many things, but mostly about the wilderness itself.  They want to take you back in time to those legendary ‘Hemingway’ escapades in a part of Africa where you can reconnect with nature and replenish your senses.


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Tusk and Mane

Tusk and Mane is unapologetically focused on delivering a ‘back to nature’ wilderness adventure. They are not about cut flowers in the room, elaborate spa menus or 2,000 bottle wine cellars.   That doesn’t mean that you will be slumming it.  To the contrary.  Their camps are simple yet comfortable.  Old style luxury camping at its finest.  A setting where visitors can immerse themselves in the wilderness, experiencing it under the stars, around the campfire and on every activity.


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Kutali tent and forest credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kyle Branch, a vastly experienced and accomplished professional safari guide, has worked as a guide, in camp management and in a training capacity in several African countries including Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa and Uganda, over the last 15 years.  He explains his decision to settle in Zambia, as follows:  “Zambia is an incredibly wild country with diversity I can’t get enough of.  I have chosen to move my life here permanently to show those who are interested,  an untouched wilderness where you can still picture what it was like walking the banks of the Zambezi in the 1800s.  It is truly a childhood dream coming true”. 


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Kyle’s friend and business partner Luke Evans is on the same wavelength.  Born in Zambia, he literally grew up in safari camps in the Kafue, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi National Parks, where his parents spent many years in the safari business.   Luke – who is trilingual, speaking Chi Nyanja, English and German – has worked with several safari operators including Robin Pope, Sanctuary and Sausage Tree.  His forte is having been involved in every facet of the safari business from guiding, to camp management, to marketing, to reservations, to accounting.  Luke summarizes the essence of Tusk and Mane as follows:  “Tusk and Mane is about a simple but pure safari experience tailored to all the best aspects of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  Ours is a “back to roots” approach built around a great Zambian team, excellent guiding, ice cold drinks, hot bucket showers, comfortable beds, good homemade food and our passion for this great Zambian wilderness”.


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Getting to and experiencing Kutali Camp

It took us a bit less than an hour and a half by air,  from Busanga in the Kafue to Jeki Airstrip which serves a few safari camps located on or close to the Zambezi, in the central and eastern part of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  There are daily scheduled flights from Lusaka, Mfuwe and Livingstone to and from Jeki airstrip from  June through October, which constitutes the high season.  Outside these months, seat rates are available.  Compared to many remote bush camps, the transfer time to Kutali and Chula is short – no more than 30 minutes. It is easy to combine a few days here with a stay elsewhere on the Zambian circuit.


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Chula camp dinner under the stars credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Having arrived around 10:00 am we were collected by Kyle and Luke and started to make our way to Kutali Camp.  This being the Lower Zambezi, it suddenly got really exciting as we bumped into a pack of more than 20 African painted dogs, then denning in the area.  Several of them were interacting with each other, and at one stage almost all of them got up and relocated to a shadier spot.


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A little bit later we made it to Kutali Camp which would be our home for the night.  As I had noted earlier, the camp has a great setting underneath a particularly dense stand of Faidherbia albida (Winterthorn)  trees, and overlooks the Zambezi River.

Elephants, buffaloes, and even leopards are often seen around the campsite, and of course there are hippos all over the place at night, when they leave their Zambezi home to forage.

Legendary Lodge


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Chula camp at night credit Tusk & Mane

Later in the afternoon we took a boat ride upstream on the Zambezi, to the site of  Chula, Tusk & Mane’s other small tented camp.  This camp is located in yet another gorgeous spot, just to the  west of the well-known Old Mondoro camp.  That evening we experienced a beautiful sunset, watching in awe as the golden light faded over the mountains of the Zambia escarpment.


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Dinner table at Chula credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Dinner at Kutali camp was memorable in more ways than one. A safari camp really comes alive at night just before and during dinner. This magical evening was no exception. Right off the bat, we were happy to see some familiar faces:  Phil and Tyrone from Musekese and their significant others were in camp!  We were thrilled to see a guest from Switzerland there, whom we had first met at Musekese as well.  A mini-reunion!  As is often the case this time of the day, we got word of some other good sightings. The African painted dogs had been sighted again, as well as a leopard.

Villa Maua


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Sitting around the fire I caught bits and pieces of several conversations, the topics ranging from wildlife photography to the (then) imminent Zambia general election, the rapidly rising number and rate of Covid vaccinations in Zambia, and the weekly flow pattern of the Zambezi.  Which, as you may not need to be told, goes up and down in tandem with the excess amount of water released from Lake Kariba to operate the turbines which generate electricity.  Less on the weekends, more during the week.


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Chula Pool Sunset Tusk & Mane

The night was typical in some ways with friendly, like-minded people surrounding me, all imbued to one degree or another with a love of animals, nature and the wilderness.  In other ways, it was a unique, never to be repeated event:  making new acquaintances who may become new friends, acquiring new knowledge and experience, taking photographs and making memories which may last a lifetime.  Finding myself in a true wilderness area where I’ve never been before and judging it to be so appealing and special that I am already making plans for a longer return stay.  This, of course, is what an African safari is all about and what makes it such a satisfying vacation.


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We made an early start the following morning to the western part of the Lower Zambezi National Park.  All the while, driving through some beautiful, atmospheric winterthorn forests.  From August to October is when the mature winterthorn pods start to drop, attracting numerous elephants and other wildlife into the camp sites.

Our game drive to Jeki was on the quiet side but we did see quite a few elephants, lots of impala, waterbuck, later some zebra and close to the airstrip a leopard – briefly.  We stopped for tea alongside the beautiful Discovery channel before we headed to the jetty for our boat ride to our next camp. 


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Kutali tent and campsite credit Mana Meadows Tusk & Mane

Kutali and Chula Camps

Kutali Camp is located on Kulefu Island which means ‘far away place’.  It is a classic winterthorn forest Zambezi valley camp which offers excellent canoeing and walking opportunities, yet it is just a brief river crossing away from the mainland for game drives.

I quickly made myself comfortable in one of the five square guest tents at Kutali.  The rooms are basic but comfortable with hot water bucket showers available on demand, and proper flush toilets in the adjacent, enclosed bathroom.  I quite liked the gauze netting which provides protection – but allows air to flow freely – when the solid canvas ‘walls’ are rolled up.


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Chula – which means frog – is located on Discovery Island and is Tusk & Mane’s nearest site to Jeki Airfield.  They describe the island as being like Jurassic Park – full of surprises, with several hidden lagoons and open dambos. The game-viewing right on Discovery Island is excellent and Kyle and Luke have seen leopards, lions, hyenas, buffalo herds and lots of elephants there, as well as several other species.


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Chula tent with Natal Mahogany tree credit ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

The atmosphere on Chula is unique and it even looks different with an abundance  of Natal mahogany trees and sandy beaches.  The perfect contrast to Kutali camp.

All the tents used in both Kutali and Chula have:

  • Ensuite individual bathrooms – accessible without leaving the tent.
  • Bucket shower, flushing toilet and wash  basin with a mirror.
  • Two comfortable beds with top quality linen provided.  The two beds can be joined to form doubles on request.
  • Two bedside tables with solar lamps/reading lights.
  • A safe box to store valuables.
  • Two comfortable camp chairs.
  • Two folding shelf systems for clothes.
  • Complimentary laundry service.

The campsites at Kutali and Chula feature a bar area in the shade, a comfortable seating area under canvas and a well stocked, refrigerated bar.  There is almost always a campfire going and as we were to find out, the food was more than good – and wholesome.  


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

We would recommend a minimum 4-night stay split between Kutali & Chula Camp. This will enable visitors to make the most of the wide variety of activities on offer in the Lower Zambezi National Park.  A stay at Kutali and/or Chula combines well with Musekese Camp in Kafue National Park and there is a long-stay offer in place, for spending 4 nights each in both locations.


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Tusk and Mane

Tusk & Mane activities

The Tusk and Mane experience is diverse and exciting,  with much of the game viewing done on foot or from the canoes.  Game drives, boat cruises and fishing are on offer as well, making for an exciting and adventurous experience..

The Zambezi is central to what Tusk & Mane is all about and it features prominently in the activities on offer.  Right off the bat we did a late afternoon boating trip on the river, enjoying some nice views of hippos, various birds and the pretty scenery.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Canoeing

On a previous visit to the area, we went out on a canoe safari (in several sturdy Canadian canoes), drifting downstream for about 5 kilometers (3 miles), the entire trip taking about 90 minutes.  I would highly recommend this activity for all visitors:  it is a serene, peaceful outing, drifting by a stunningly beautiful shoreline, with plenty of hippo ‘onlookers’ who kept their distance as we kept ours.


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Dambo View Tusk & Mane

From Kutali, Kyle Branch leads all canoe safaris.  The back-up paddlers, who pilot each canoe with guests, are experienced Tusk and Mane staff.  Kyle and the canoe team will quietly paddle you through any of the three incredibly beautiful channels that break away from the main Zambezi river. Depending on what the guests want to experience on the day and the duration they had in mind, the canoe safari route would traverse the Inkalange, Chifungulu or Discovery channel as well as parts of the main river. Each channel is of a different length with different, yet equally diverse habitats alongside.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Walking

The walking safaris are done  in the early morning starting at 6:00 am to finish up before the worst heat of the day.  The Tusk & Mane  walking safaris are relaxed, maintaining a comfortable pace adjusted to suit the slowest guest. Walks usually only cover a few miles with frequent stops for scenery, birds and animals.  Guests are given a thorough safety briefing and orientation before each walk. In the interests of safety, participants will need to be reasonably fit and mobile.


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Your professional guide will be carrying a first aid kit, radio and additional water. Guests will each have a water bottle in a custom-made sling for easy carrying.  The group is accompanied by an armed Wildlife Police Officer from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife. He walks in front with a powerful rifle, together with the professional guide and protects the group in the unlikely event of an aggressive animal encounter.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Boating & Fishing

Boating provides a stable platform for photography from a different perspective, from water to land, with an ideal green backdrop.  The river banks are often the scene of action of one kind or another, ranging from hippos rushing headlong into the water to crocodiles staying put. Sometimes allowing you to get really close.  On this trip I managed a close up shot of a crocodile’s eye in just such a scenario.   A boat trip is also ideal for bird photography with multiple opportunities to shoot birds in flight, and many species that like to hug the edges of the rivers like the waders, skimmers, ducks, cormorants, kingfishers and many others.


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ManaMeadows Tusk & Mane

Fishing can either be done as a stand-alone activity or combined with boating.  In the Lower Zambezi fishing is available throughout the season from May to November.  The last two months of the season are the best as this is when the Tigerfish are most active.  The fishing is done on a strict ‘catch and release’ basis with every attempt being made to ensure the best chance of survival, in order to maintain and grow fish populations in the Lower Zambezi. All equipment is provided: quality Tigerfish, Vundu, and Bream rods and reels, along with all the tackle and spinners/lures needed. All that is missing is you, a little bit of luck and lots of patience. 


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Mike Sutherland Tusk & Mane

What makes Tusk & Mane special?

Few places in Africa offer as varied an experience as the Lower Zambezi and all the more so in the Tusk & Mane locations.  Guests can experience the Zambezi River from the winterthorn forests on remote islands, all the way north through several habitats into the hills of the Zambia escarpment for the best of both worlds.


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From the various Tusk & Mane camp sites you can experience the wildlife rich and diverse areas of the Lower Zambezi either by foot, canoe, vehicle or boat. The safari can be as long as you wish and the activities can be totally tailored to suit you and your party, irrespective of size or make-up.  At all times you will be in a classic tented safari setting, exactly how they used to be.  With a campfire, bucket showers and one star spangled night after another.


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The Tusk and Mane environment offers the ultimate safari activity mix:  walking, canoeing, day & night drives, birding, fishing and boating.  All in an area where you are not likely to see another vehicle or person, or at most a handful.  The camps are small and the experience is personal, with no more than eight guests.  A party can opt to pay for as few as five persons and obtain exclusive use of the camp.  The camp sites are all in very private areas and a good distance away from where other camps do activities.  Which means that you can look forward to experiencing Africa – your way.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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A walking safari in the South Luangwa, Zambia

26th August 2021

A walking safari in the South Luangwa, Zambia


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Photo: Time & Tide

A walking safari in the South Luangwa, Zambia

The first of two walking safaris which we would do in the South Luangwa National Park in Zambia this July was perhaps a bit more adventurous than we had anticipated. Blame the hippos. There are thousands of them along the Luangwa River – at last count more than 60 of these behemoths per kilometer of river bank.  On the day, a handful of them were still making their way back to the water by the time we set out of camp. It made for a few adrenaline-charged moments. 


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Photo: Time & Tide

Earlier, back in camp, we were up before sunrise for a 530 am wake up call, accompanied by a cup of tea. By 6 am we were enjoying a full breakfast with eggs to order (all three of us opted for scrambled), toast made over the coals, fresh fruit, juice, and freshly made pancakes. Not to mention freshly popped popcorn.  I had to try a couple of pancakes with Lyle’s Golden Syrup – the perfect combination!


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Photo: Time & Tide

Walking directly out of Kakuli camp, we set out on our guided walk with our Time & Tide guide Innocent and parks guide Bottle. Our walk would take us all along the edge of the Luangwa River upstream towards Mchenja Camp.


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Photo: Time & Tide

I had not done a ‘proper’ foot safari in quite a while and this one reminded me what I had been missing. It felt good to get out of the vehicle, into a pair of walking shoes and back on my legs for a while.  Other than the sound of our footfall, and some bird calls, the only noise was the near-constant grunting and bellowing of the hippos in the Luangwa River.  The noisy hippos in the river were not a threat.  The ones we had to worry about were the ones still making their way back to the water, after being out all night, grazing.  As it turned out, we were hardly ever out of sight of one or more hippos, for the first 40 minutes of the walk.


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Photo: Time & Tide

Once I realized that we would be mixing it up with the hippos, so to speak, the walk took on a completely different tenor.  We all started to pay a lot more attention to what was happening in front of us. And maybe even more so to our left, from where any potential ‘problem’ hippo would likely materialize.  The river itself being on our right.  ‘Don’t get between a hippo and the water’, is the generally accepted advice – and practice – in these parts.  We were not exactly trying to do that, but it is almost unavoidable when you are walking early in the day in an area with hundreds of hippos around.


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Photo: Time & Tide

As it turned out the only close call was when we surprised one particular hippo when we inadvertently blocked the exit of his regular route down to the river. Fortunately for us, the hippo decided not to pursue the issue. It simply made a 180 degree turn, and went off in a different direction. We continued on our way, but only after making eyes at each other, at the conclusion of the momentary standoff.   


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Photo: Time & Tide

Along the way, Innocent drew our attention to some fascinating natural history highlights of the area, including several tracks and marks. One – which none of us had ever seen or recognized before – was the mark left by the hairy face and beard of a hippo. We learnt about the life cycle of the ivory palm, were informed about the status (active or dormant) of some giant termite mounds and we saw some fascinating bird species such as the African Fish Eagle, various bee eaters, coucals and kingfishers. 


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This being the South Luangwa there were dozens, maybe hundreds, of inquisitive hippo eyes intently fixed on us as we made our way upstream. What were they projecting?  If I had to take a guess, it would be a mixture of ‘don’t you dare come any closer’ and – as we were moving away, ‘good riddance’.   It was comforting to know that hippos would rarely – if ever – leave the water to pursue a real or imagined threat.

By mid morning we had made our way to a rendezvous point from where we drove a short distance to Mchenja Camp for a site inspection.

Legendary Lodge


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Photo: Time & Tide

Mchenja Camp

Mchenja is the local name for ebony, and the camp is tucked into a shady ebony grove beside the Luangwa River in the heart of South Luangwa National Park.

Its five rooms (including a two-bedroom, two-bathroom family suite) are pure, natural elegance with grass walls, soft cushions and light-as-air curtains. Each has a feather-top bed, large picture windows and open air en-suite bathroom with a bath looking out onto the river.


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Photo: Time & Tide

Built around a bent ebony trunk, the main lounge has the feel of a spacious treehouse. At breakfast, listen to a chorus of birdsong and laughing hippos. Between safari activities, relax in the refreshing pool overlooking the river.

Night drives are always rewarding, with the bush revealing a different nocturnal surprise every time. At the right time of year, from about August through March, this is one of the best camps in the park for seeing carmine bee-eaters.

Villa Maua

Sanctuary Retreats


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Photo: Time & Tide

Fish Eagle Safaris’ history with walking safaris

Our history with walking safaris goes way back to the 1980’s when Bert and Kathy signed up for several of the – even then – legendary Kruger Park wilderness trails.  Joining up with a handful of other trailists, they completed the Nyalaland, Sweni and Olifants trails, spending several days in rustic, primitive camps and going on long hikes through the wilderness..  This is where they first experienced the African bush on foot and came to realize why many people consider walking to be the ultimate wilderness experience.  


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Photo: Time & Tide

Since then, various members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team have participated in walking safaris in several destinations, notably in the Tuli Block of Botswana with Stuart Quinn of WalkMashatu, in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park with Time & Tide Safaris, in Zimbabwe’s Hwange and Mana Pools National Parks, in Western Tanzania’s Katavi and Mahale Mountains National Parks, in Namibia’s Damaraland area tracking back rhinos, in Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the Republic of Congo, in Rwanda and Uganda on gorilla treks, in Kruger Park on a Rhino Walking Safari with Izibindi Africa, and Bushman’s Kloof in the Cedarberg Mountains.


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Photo: Time & Tide

As one part of a multifaceted trip which also includes game drives and some water experiences such as boating or canoeing, a foot safari is for many the purest form of experiencing the African wilderness.  Free of the noise and intrusive impact of a vehicle and free to go just about anywhere, a walking safari is open-ended and unpredictable.  It is as close as one can get to the wilderness on many levels:  feeling the ground under your feet, touching the surrounding vegetation and listening for sounds while observing signs and tracks.  Being out of the vehicle adds a sense of vulnerability which is exciting and at times challenging.  Of course, you are quite safe in the presence of a careful, experienced, armed guide yet the possibility of an unplanned, unforeseen encounter is always hanging in the air.


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A foot safari always starts with the ground rules:  walk in single file, take turns to walk in front just behind the guide and keep the volume down.  Follow the head guide’s instructions at all times. Most importantly – in the event of something untoward happening – don’t run!

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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