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Trip Report

Safari Lodge of the Month: Wilderness Mokete, Mababe

22nd June 2024

Safari Lodge of the Month: Wilderness Mokete, Mababe

Wilderness’ recently opened Mababe-area tented camp – Mokete – has catapulted to the top of many safari aficionados’ must-visit lists.  

Game viewing at Wilderness Mokete is unmatched, renowned for the mega herds that make their way across this private wilderness with a constant supply of water, located on the eastern fringe of the Okavango Delta and the famed Moremi Game Reserve, to the south of Chobe National Park. With its three distinct habitats: grassland plains, mopane and acacia woodlands, and the marsh system fed by the Mababe River, Mokete is home to prides of lion, leopards, cheetahs, packs of wild dogs, bat-eared foxes, jackals, African wild cats and servals. All of which makes for an immersive, exclusive and thrilling safari. There are often huge herds of buffalo in the area, and there can also be huge herds of zebras. Also worth mentioning: two pretty special antelope, sable and roan. They have been seen around Mokete in the dozens if not hundreds. Unlike anywhere else.

The camp offers unconventional safari adventures, where time is dictated by nature, not the clock. In this part of Botswana, it’s not uncommon to see lions on the hunt on the plains during the day, which makes for exceptional photographic opportunities. Guests can choose to stay on a game drive as long as they please, or stop for a lazy bush picnic – or stay out with the predators late at night if they wish. Guided walks can be arranged, or guests may be tempted to spend an afternoon in the sunken hide, eye-to-toe with the elephants.

With only canvas between guests and nature, a stay at Mokete is an immersive feast for the senses. Due to the open layout and high density of wildlife, only guests 16 and older are permitted to stay. There is a swimming pool for warm afternoons and a star bed for cool evenings under the sky.

Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon recently spent a couple of nights at Mokete. Here are some of his observations and his recommendations to make your stay at Mokete even more rewarding than it may otherwise be:

At Mokete there are a number of things that you will definitely want to do during your stay:

  1. Take some time to focus on the lion and buffalo interaction. The large lion prides have got a great setup and pretty much plant themselves between the buffalo herds and the water. Our guide told us they can easily feed a couple of times per day. We did not witness a hunt but every time I saw the lions they were eating something. We took a helicopter ride to the camp and en route we saw the recent aftermath of a hunt with about 12-13 lions feeding on the carcass of a buffalo.

  1. Visit the elephant hide. There is an area that is known as ‘elephant paradise’ and it attracts huge numbers of elephants, especially in the evenings when they come for water. The camp has a hide overlooking the water and we got to spend an evening there. It was fantastic and the number and sheer tonnage of elephants cycling in to drink before heading back into the wooded area was astounding. We went back to the area on our final night (not back to the hide) and it took a long time to drive through due to the high density of elephants. It was quite something combined with the sunset.

  1. Go on an after dinner night drive. I was told this can be requested upon arrival and we can also let the camp know in advance, if this is something you’d like to do. At the time of my visit there was a resident wildlife photographer/film-maker in camp. During one of our dinners he recommended we do this as a group because of all the amazing things he had been spotting during the night. It turned out even better than any of us could have hoped.

    Here’s what we know about night drives: they are very hit and miss. Nocturnal animals are difficult to find with a spotlight due to a narrow field of view and often the only thing you might see at a distance is the light’s reflection in the animal’s eyes. This leads to some premature excitement only to find out you are looking at and heading toward a herd of impala. Mokete is not immune to these annoyances but our night drive started with a bang right out of camp with a giant eagle owl flying and perching in a tree just next to the road. Not five minutes after this we had a splendid viewing of a porcupine. This would typically be a moderately successful night drive already but the real fun hadn’t yet begun.A few minutes later we caught a glimpse of the elusive aardvark. Actually, two. This was my first time seeing one so I experienced some elation as we sped over road and grass to get a better look. What a sighting! Shortly after this we saw a group of four bat eared foxes. Some time passed and we saw a third aardvark, this one alone and much less bothered by our presence than the previous two. We spent a good amount of time observing it as it jogged from one area to the next looking for a meal. They are so much more agile than I could have imagined, which makes sense having to survive in such an environment.

    Up ahead of this there was a large herd of buffalo. Seeing these at night is different because they were having trouble getting a good look at us. This caused them to stop moving completely and stand absolutely still before one gave the call to move and they ran off. Fascinating! Overall I still don’t know if this is what we can expect of a typical night drive at Mokete or if we had incredible luck. The way that the wildlife photographer spoke about what he would see at night leads me to believe that game drives like this might not be as lucky as they felt after all…

  1. Time permitting, visit the northern side of the park that borders the Chobe area. It takes a bit of time to get there but this is the area where we spotted two male cheetahs. The habitat is a bit different and there is enough of a distance from the main lion prides that cheetahs feel safe.

  1. Just general game drives exploring the different areas of the park. It is quite large so this would mainly be on the advice of the guides and what they have been noticing.I think a three or perhaps four night stay should be enough to accomplish most if not all of this.A couple extra notes. The sand there is fine and it can get very dusty. Later in the dry season (my visit was in early May) it  will be even more prominent I suspect. I would highly recommend at minimum bringing a buff or something to cover your mouth and nose (and something to protect camera equipment). The areas by the water where the lions camped out were very bumpy. The guides did not rush through so it wasn’t bad but it was slow going.  

Get in touch with us if you would like to visit Wilderness Mokete. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Safari Lodge of the Month: Xigera

21st May 2024

Safari Lodge of the Month: Xigera

Until not too long ago, Xigera Safari Lodge in northern Botswana’s Okavango Delta was like a young artist just breaking into the crowded and hugely competitive pop music arena. Brilliant at times and with loads of talent but just not quite there yet. An opening act at best, and sometimes the ticket you settled for when all the other concerts were sold out. 

No more. Architect Anton De Kock and the Tollman family have turned this one-time Cinderella into a superstar, contending for the highest accolades one could possibly bestow in the panoply of elite safari lodge.  

Xigera Safari Camp is currently and will likely remain – for the foreseeable future – the most impressive iteration of a safari lodge in Africa. At least that we know of. Twelve ultra-deluxe suites radiate out from a sumptuous central dining and lounge area, all elevated on a three meter high boardwalk.  

The rooms are nothing short of gargantuan in size; ours (#2) had a huge lounge area with large plate glass windows and doors with pretty views over the floodplain. The  large bedroom with a king size bed sported equally good views. The entire bedroom can be closed off by a simple but effective, electrically operated sliding mosquito net.  To the rear of the room, there’s a large walk-in closet with a make-up desk and magnifying mirror. The room has tons of storage space and clothes hanging space. And yes, there is a hair dryer.  

The cuisine at Xigera

During a recent visit to Xigera we found the food to be of the highest standard throughout, starting with lunch on our day of arrival. It was fun and exciting with  items like peri-peri wings, lamb sliders and a classic caesar salad with anchovies. Dinner was a multi-course affair, served outside in the boma under the African night sky. Does food taste better outside? Maybe not, but combining cutting-edge cuisine with fire and coals, smoke and heat, is never a bad idea. All the more so in the hands of the Xigera culinary team who does magical things with a fine lamb loin chop or a perfectly done portion of boerewors, firm to the bite but never tough, juicy and with a characteristic but understated note of coriander. Delicious served with plain mealiepap, known as sadza, ugali and nshima elsewhere in Africa. 

It ended up being an enchanted evening for guests and staff alike. Several of the guests were introduced to African dishes for the first time, much to their delight. A spirited dancing and singing performance by staff members concluded the night. 

The team was back at it quite early the next morning over breakfast. The Xigera eggs Benedict, with salmon, was particularly good and delicate, with a perfect Hollandaise sauce.  

Dinner that night was an outstanding 6-course tasting menu, a novel and sophisticated take on the traditional boma dinner. It retained the fire, coals and smoke of the boma, as well as the social nature, with guests, chef, and sommelier around a quadrangular outside area, with 3 small hibachi cookers providing the coals. 

Taking us through the first five courses, assistant chef Ollie Notes provided background and context to each dish. 

These included:

  • A smoked mozzarella with tomato relish and basil pesto
  • Grilled butternut with herb salt and local honey over a bed of butternut mousse
  • Salmon tostada with avocado wrapped in a freshly made corn tortilla
  • Twice-baked potato with onion and chevre and fresh goat cheese.
  • Grilled onion with a Gorgonzola reduction

Chef Branea from Cape Town put the finishing touches to the delectable ice cream dessert.  

Game viewing at Xigera

We’ve been on quite a few game drives in the Xigera area over the years and we have seen a definite uptrend. On our previous visit there we had our best view yet of a sitatunga on a mokoro outing, we bumped into some lions and we got some great leopard photos as well. 

This time, more of the same. Right off the bat, Xigera surprised with a sighting of two good-sized male lions, in their prime, on a small island not far from the lodge. Not too far away – three female lions – all part of the same pride.  

Early mornings are when you want to be on safari in Botswana. That’s when some of the cats are still active as we found out on the following morning’s drive. There was a lot going on with a coalition of two young male lions – just coming into their prime – having just recently moved into the Xigera area at the time.

On this day, they were making no secret of their presence, loudly proclaiming being around with roaring – all while scent-marking everywhere. Of the two, the dominant male lion seemed to be keen to seek out the three females we had seen the previous day. That action would no doubt have serious consequences as the pair of dominant males would have been forced to react. That didn’t happen that day.

We left the two interlopers and located the dominant brothers who had also been roaring earlier that morning. They were clearly aware of the threat to their authority but were by no means cowed or nervous. They seemed very much at ease and in fact dozed off after they had found a shady spot to their liking.

What was clear at the time was that the lion pride dynamics at Xigera were poised for a sea change and guests at Xigera may be in for some surprising developments and titanic battles should the two younger males decide to take on the older, bigger, dominant males for control of the pride.

While we concentrated on the lion dynamics during the course of our stay, it became clear that the hit and miss game viewing which had characterized Xigera back in the day had matured. There was plenty of general plains game around in the way of zebras, lechwe, giraffes and kudus. Plus some solitary elephant bulls and a few small breeding herds. 

Combining Xigera with other Botswana camps

How does one ideally combine Xigera with other Botswana properties? We posed the question to Red Carnations’ Sally Gray who had an elegant and creative suggestion. Combine Xigera with Natural Selections’ Jacks Camp and Wilderness’ Mombo. 

Here is Sally’s take on the unique appeal of each of these properties and how they complement each other to create a perfect safari combination. One more piece of good advice from her:  “Be sure to end your stay at Xigera!”

Jack’s Camp

  • As with all lodges of this caliber – location is pivotal. Jack’s location is incredible – overlooking the Makgadikgadi pans.
  • Completely different ecosystem and landscape compared with anywhere else in Botswana.
  • Home to several unusual species of game, largely endemic to this region, such as brown hyena, black-maned lions, aardvark, oryx and springbok.
  • The experience of being able to sleep out in the salt pans – I have done this – possibly the best experience I have ever had.
  • Accompany the local San people on one of their bush walks – learning the secrets to their survival in such a harsh environment.
  • This area is also the home to one of the largest migrations of zebras in Africa – truly remarkable.
  • Similarly run to Xigera – Jack’s is family owned and run by Ralph Bousfield, who is hugely respected in the safari industry.
  • Jack’s Camp works well with Xigera as the two properties deliver a completely different experience.
  • Jack’s offers a wide variety of activities, so a 3-night stay is recommended.

Mombo

  • Iconic location on Chief’s Island in the Moremi Game Reserve.
  • It’s not for nothing that Mombo is known as the place of plenty – it is a game-viewing delight.
  • Made famous by the leopard named Legadema – beautifully captured in the wildlife documentary Eye of the Leopard. Her grandchildren and great-grandchildren are still at Mombo.
  • Dominated by cats, particularly lions and leopards.
  • Mombo offers game drives only, so it needs to be combined with another lodge for guests to get the full Botswana experience.
  • Mombo has a “hide” experience which allows you to get up and close with the animals.

Xigera Safari Lodge

  • Refurbished and revamped and opened in 2021.
  • 12 Suite lodge.
  • Fully air-conditioned which is a rarity in the Okavango Delta. Most of the other lodges have an airflow over the beds.
  • Xigera has as many as five different activities daily – four of them all year. Daily: game drives, mekoro outings, fishing, walking;  seasonal: boating.
  • A variety of activities calls for a longer stay – as there is so much more to experience.
  • Xigera is among the most sustainable lodges in Botswana – being 95% off the grid and having a sophisticated recycling program.
  • Incredible game experience. Intriguing species such as the rare African painted dog and cheetah have moved back into the region after a shift in the tectonic plates in Botswana in 2017.  This very minor earthquake has changed the face of this part of the Okavango Delta
  • Food is described as being “luscious.” All from local farmers supported by Xigera’s “Make Travel Matter” initiatives.

When you are ready to embark on what may very well be the ultimate safari combining Jack’s Camp, Mombo and Xigera Safari Lodge – give us a call at 1-800-513-5222 or email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.   

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Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route – Trip Report

7th April 2024

Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route – Trip Report

Is climbing Kilimanjaro easy? I had posed this question to myself once or twice before in the aftermath of previous Kili climbs, which included the Machame, Rongai and Marangu routes. My answer hasn’t changed. You might be lulled into thinking that it is so by day five on several of the major routes. By which time you’ve successfully negotiated a few steep and sometimes rocky uphill stretches, a couple of glacial valleys and notably, the Barranco Wall. And you’ve mastered some long, grinding hikes at altitude. All in all, you’re thinking,  this is not going to be as hard as you had imagined it might be. Provided of course, that  you’re not suffering too badly from the effects of altitude sickness, you’re sleeping ok and not overly fatigued.  

And then everything changes. Somewhere between leaving base camp around midnight on summit day and getting down to the camp where you will be spending your last night on the mountain it becomes decidedly ‘not easy’. This is when you find out that Kilimanjaro is not a stroll in the park. In fact, most climbers are stretched to the very extreme of their limits over the span of about 14 hours, starting around midnight on summit day, which lasts well into the afternoon of the following day.  

My most recent and likely penultimate attempt to hike Kili, with just Umbwe to go to make it a nice round ‘5’ number, was the Lemosho Route in February 2023. It is the longest of the popular tourist routes and the one with the highest success ratio. The reason being self-evident: more time spent on the mountain at altitude prior to summit day leads to better acclimatization which leads to a less fatigued, more energized summit attempt.    

Just like the previous three times I had set out on a Kilimanjaro climb, day one on the Lemosho Route started with a drive from your Moshe or Arusha hotel. From where we spent the night, it was a 3-hour drive to the Londorossi Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. The previous afternoon we had completed some formalities with the help of our lead guide Joseph Majuto, which meant that on our first day on the mountain we mostly had to wait in a tourist shelter with a lunch box, eating cookies and drinking boxed fruit juices. All while eyeing the other small groups of climbers doing the same thing. It takes longer than you might think – to get the permits ready – but you’ve got all day to get to the first campsite so no huge rush. Have another cookie.  

Thu 17 Feb:  Londorossi Gate to Big Tree – a rainforest stroll

Just as we were setting off, even before we had emerged from the cover of the shelter, some light and then intermittently heavy rain started to fall. An early opportunity for our three team members to put our rain gear to the test. My new Arcteryx Atom AR  shell handled the moisture admirably, although it was warmer than I had anticipated, with a good head of steam developing inside the jacket as we walked steadily uphill in moderately warm temperatures. My two team members were uber fit marathon runners and despite having done this a few times previously, I knew that I would have to bring my A-game to hang with the two women. 

The 7 km (just over 4 miles) hike from Londorossi Gate to the Mti Mkubwa campsite – better known as Big Tree – traverses a beautiful, dense, rainforest with majestic trees towering over the dense undergrowth, consisting of a profusion of vines, shrubs and other leafy plants. On one of the previous climbs, this is where our party got absolutely drenched in a torrential rainfall storm. Which is why you need to be wearing proper, waterproof boots for any Kilimanjaro climb.  

We arrived at the Big Tree campsite only to find that a surprisingly large number of tents had already been erected among the trees in a level area. I estimated that there were close to 50 tents spaced out in the woods. We dropped our stuff inside the tent and enjoyed some tea and popcorn while we waited for dinner. As if we hadn’t had enough of walking, we also took a stroll through the campsite. Then it was time for dinner: fish, potato croquettes, beans, a mixed salad and vegetable ‘sauce’. Pretty good. After doing the usual health questions (are you feeling dizzy, do you have a headache or difficulty breathing and a few others) and passing the pulse oximeter ‘test’ with flying colors, we called it a day. Nightlife? No such thing. Take your Kindle or a couple of books and rechargeable solar light.  

Fri 18 Feb:  Big Tree to Shira 1 – the hills get steep  and the rain intensifies 

We were up at 6:00 am for breakfast at 7:00 am, and departed just after 8:00 am. Even just three people can be slow getting ready, clearly. Right out of camp we encountered the first of two hills on the way. The first one was quite steep, followed by a fairly steep descent. The second hill seemed endless and presented us with the first real test on the hike. There wasn’t much in the way of switchbacks either, it was just up, up, up. Conditions were still quite warm and we were all sweating as we exited the rainforest, entering moorland habitat about an hour or so into the hike.  

From that point, it took at least another hour of steep uphill hiking over uneven terrain until we reached the crest of the ridge. From there the trail stretched along a relatively even area for the next 40 minutes or so.  

By now it had gotten really cold and a steady rain had started to come down. We had our rain gear on so we were ok but it was still pretty miserable and all three of us suffered from extremely cold hands.  

We reached Shira 1 campsite at just about 1:40 pm, cold and exhausted, and a cup of hot tea never tasted better. Ten minutes later, our assistant Davis served lunch, which consisted of spaghetti with a chicken sauce, fresh corn, and a pea, onion and tomato sauce. We tucked in and put a serious dent in the spaghetti. From there conditions improved considerably as the rain eventually abated and we enjoyed a couple of hours of partial sunshine.  

We spent some time in the mess tent where we warmed our frozen fingers. Taking a  walk through the campsite, we observed a Summits tent and met a couple of affable climbers from the UK, as well as a couple from Chapel Hill, NC. We took some photographs. Around 6:00 pm, hot water was delivered to the tent in a small basin for a sponge bath. Dinner was at 7:00 pm: rice, black beans and tomato sauce and fresh fruit. Again, it was early to bed, and I slept a solid 9 hours. That, in summary, is pretty much the nightly routine on a Kili climb, until summit day.

Sat 19 Feb – Shira 1 to Shira 2 – More rain, getting pelted in a sleet storm

To this point, this hike along the Lemosho Route was characterized by just one thing: rain. It rained every day without fail. Usually starting at around 11:00 am and invariably accompanied by heavy thunder. Fortunately, the thunder stayed high with no lighting bolts reaching the ground. At least not in our vicinity.  

Rain, hiking and camping in the open are not a good mix. Over the course of several days the dampness gets into almost everything. By day three the base of our tents was damp and some of the Goretex clothing items were starting to fail to repel the moisture.

More than that, the rain and sleet also impacted our activities and the day to day routine. Everything becomes more difficult and tedious when it is wet and muddy. Starting with simple things like getting in and out of the tents. Crouching down to duck into and out of the low opening with mud everywhere is annoying at the best of times, and downright frustrating in the wet.

The hiking is also substantially impacted by long periods of rain and sleet. It slows everything down, from having to stop repeatedly to add rain gear, to slowing down over wet terrain, having to dodge puddles and muddy spots, and having to be even more deliberate than usual traversing over wet rock.   

Another downside of chronically overcast weather: fewer opportunities to experience the scenery, which is one of the hallmarks of the Lemosho Route. We did have some good views of the Shira Plateau from Shira 1 camp, and great views of Kibo peak at the end of day 2 from Shira 1 and also from Shira 2. The second time around we could clearly see just how much more snow had accumulated in the previous 24 hours.

The hike from Shira 1 to 2 is about 10 km (6 miles) in distance and took us just about 4 hours, with a few rest stops, including one to don our rain gear.  

It didn’t only rain a lot. For the better part of 40 minutes plus we were in a heavy sleet storm, with icicles pelting us on the head. We were apprehensive about encountering a proper hail storm when good protection would have been impossible to find. Things are slightly grim when ‘just icicles’ is the good news.  

After an afternoon nap, we did a little walkabout, took a few more pictures and sat down for dinner at 6:30 pm. Homemade french fries, beef kabobs, and a bean stew, oranges and pineapple. And soup. We could not complain about the food. Earlier –  for lunch – we had veggie sandwiches, the Kili cook’s tasty take on pizza and a hot soup as a starter. Incidentally, despite all the 45 miles or so of hiking, I don’t think any one of us lost much weight. No surprise there.  

By nightfall – 8:oo pm – the sky had cleared and we could admire the starlit night sky, with the Milky Way and Orion being prominent.

Sun 20 Feb:  Shira 2 to Barranco – via Lava Tower at 15,000 feet above sea level

This was the longest day of the route so far, all of 7 hours and 20 minutes or so, from Shira 2 camp to Barranco Camp. How long and how tough a day was it? Somewhat like doing one of Colorado’s 14,000 foot peaks, all the way up and all the way down in just one day. We started at just before 8:00 am, after an eventful night. At around 2:00 am a heavy rainstorm moved across our campsite. It wasn’t brief and it was quite intense, adding to our existing concerns about dampness getting into our ground mattresses and potentially into our sleeping bags. To some degree it did, but not as badly as we had feared.

At 6:30 am, the sun was shining and it would continue to do so intermittently until about 1:00 pm when we reached Lava Tower at 15,000 feet above sea level. This was a new altitude record for two of the three of us.  

From the Lava Tower – which was the high point on the day’s hike – it was mostly downhill all the way to Barranco. Downhill doesn’t always translate to easy. It was heavy going pretty much all the way with rocks and boulders and steps up and steps down all the way. The area was still soaked from the previous day’s heavy precipitation, which made the footing slippery at times, and unpredictable.

The hike from Shira 2 to Lava Tower was no walk in the park either. Practically just meters out of camp, the rocky path started heading up and for the next two hours we walked steadily uphill, gaining considerable altitude. This portion of the hike culminates in a short ravine where we crested the hill, only to be confronted with more uphill in front.

At the sign pointing to Meyer’s Hut to the west we took a break, as did a few other hikers from Shira 2 who were enjoying a sitdown cup of tea. From there the trail winds steadily upward, across a saddle of sorts, and then links up with the Machame Trail a little further on.

Once the huge Lava Tower rocky outcrops came fully into view, we became more energized, our strength and energy having started to wane quite a bit. Understandably so, as at 15,000 feet the thin air does not deliver nearly as much oxygen as at sea level.  

We enjoyed a packed lunch at Lava Tower, regained our strength and then set off for Barranco.

Dinner tonight: cheesy potatoes, elbow pasta and a white bean stew. Served with the Kili version of ‘vetkoek’ (deep fried fritters), and some fresh pineapple. As always, the guides do their best to urge you on to eat more – nutrition is all-important, as is hydration. 

Mon 21 Feb:  Crossing the Barranco Wall to Karanga Camp

Late the previous day, we had looked across the campsite to the imposing, even somewhat intimidating Barranco Wall. If you take the Lemosho, Machame, or Umbwe route up Kilimanjaro, the only way to the top involves clambering up the Barranco Wall. The 900-foot cliff which towers over Barranco Camp, presents quite a challenge to the average hiker, with two particularly nerve-wracking spots. Fortunately, they are quite early in the ascent and within minutes of each other. The first one involves putting your weight on your left leg and swinging the right leg around to a rocky ledge. The other one is the well-known ‘kissing rock’ where you literally hug a big round rock as you try to stop yourself from toppling over backwards. Fortunately there’s always a guide close by to provide support.

From there on, the climb continues up steeply, with several spots where both hands and feet are needed to negotiate the rocks. Clambering in other words. With some stops for water and to let porters by, it took us a good two hours to make it to the top, where there were some nice views of Mt. Meru in the distance.  

From the top of the Barranco Wall it is another 2 hours to the next camp, Karanga, which overlooks a pretty valley.  

About an hour or so out of Karanga, when hikers first see the camp, it appears to be no more than a 20 minute hike away. Reality sets in when you advance another 200 meters or so, and the full picture becomes clear.  Before reaching camp, you have to hike down a steep, rocky, and in places, wet and muddy path, all the way down to a clear mountain stream, only to start up a steep, equally rocky path on the other side of the ravine. On the down side, there are many potentially dangerous spots where even a slight mistake, misjudgement, or a small lapse in concentration could have dire consequences. A fall could easily result in a serious injury, which would get you a one way ticket down the mountain in what would likely be an arduous and lengthy extraction process.

So my best advice is to prepare properly for the climb with significant attention to single leg strength and balance. Use your walking sticks, maintain a safe (slow) pace and pay close attention to where you plant your feet. Above all, never stray off the main trail for whatever reason. Short cuts or detours to get around slower hikes are to be avoided altogether. That is where accidents happen.  

Karanga camp is set on a slope with Kibo prominent to the north. Some hikers bypass Karanga and continue on to Barafu – another 3 hours of hiking – only to make their summit attempt starting later on the same day. I don’t think that is a good idea at all, considering the time and energy expended to make it from Barranco up the Barranco Wall and through the several steep valleys en route to Karanga. Starting off summit day with a sleep deficit, on depleted leg muscles and at considerable altitude, is just not the smart move.

We made it to Karanga Camp around noon, just in time for a hot lunch. In the afternoon we did a Kilimanjaro version of Wordle, took a hike around the campsite, and made use of a couple of intermittent periods of sunlight to put out some solar charging devices.  

All the while Kibo loomed in the background, a silent but very powerful reminder of what lay ahead of us the following day. 

Tue 22 Feb:  Karanga Camp to Barafu – Preparing for the summit attempt

After another good night of sleep – at least for yours truly – we went through the usual morning routine of getting ready for another day of camping on Mt. Kilimanjaro.

It starts with storing your sleeping bag and mattress, getting dressed, setting aside the items for your day pack, and packing everything else into your duffel bag. There’s fluids to be prepared such as using Steri tablets or adding Nuun or Gatorade powder to the supplied boiled water. Apply sunscreen, including a high SPF product for your lips, make sure your camera or smartphone is charged, get your hat and sticks and off you go.

On this day we had a relatively short hike ahead of us, of about 3 hours, from Karanga to Barafu, which would be the base camp for the actual summit attempt. Which would start late on the evening of 22 February hopefully culminating with the three of us reaching Uhuru Peak around 8:00 to 9:00 am on Wed 23 February.  

The walk to Barafu was steadily uphill through noticeable rocky terrain. If the gods of antiquity were petulant children who tossed around large and small boulders in helter-skelter fashion, this is what the end result would be. Rocks and boulders in every direction, with precious little in the way of vegetation and almost nothing green. This was true Alpine desert. The only climate zone left? The snow cap at the summit. The last uphill into Barafu is steep and rocky and at an altitude of around 15,000 feet above sea level. It was a formidable test.  

We reached Barafu fully ready for some food and a lot of rest. Which is exactly what we proceeded to do. We enjoyed probably one of the best lunches of the trip so far, a hearty and altogether delicious vegetable stew, with some white rice on the side. Just what the doctor ordered. By 2:00 pm we were ready to at least attempt to take a nap to recharge the batteries for the most demanding hike most of us would ever do. Eight or nine hours to go until we would set off on the climactic portion of our 9-day Kilimanjaro adventure. It was with a mix of anticipation, excitement and just a little nervousness that we retired to our tents that afternoon.  

By 6:00 pm (none of us actually having slept a wink), we were back in the mess tent for a light dinner. A light icy rain started to fall during dinner, perhaps not the best harbinger of things to come on summit day or rather night. Little did we know then how things would turn out.

Just like on my previous three successful climbs, I did not sleep at all, using the afternoon and early evening hours to rest and prepare. Getting ready for the summit attempt takes a lot of planning and selection of suitable gear. Other than one’s climbing boots, the choice of a waterproof shell is critical. This is the one garment without which a Kilimanjaro climb can quickly turn miserable if not unbearable. It is of paramount importance to stay warm and dry and for that you need a good shell.

I wore an Arcteryx Beta AR shell for the first time and it was the bomb. 100% waterproof, warm, and with tighteners at the sleeves to keep moisture out. Good pockets with zippers, a proper hood and lightweight to boot. The large size means it is roomy enough to fit comfortably over several other layers, including a heavy fleece.

A light breakfast was served just after 10:00 pm, and following that we made the usual final adjustments & preparations. Put on gaiters, checked on our water and Gatorade supply, made sure we had our sunglasses, suntan lotion and extra batteries for the headlamp. It turned out that my extra batteries had been left behind in a bag in Arusha. It would cost me dearly later the following day. Other important final checks? Have your liner and heavy gloves ready from the word go. Cold fingers and hands are no fun and can be distracting. My set of heavy REI skiing mittens worked well. In your backpack also include your camera and extra batteries (keep them warm) and a 30 + SPF lip balm. This is vital – so many people leave Kili with cracked, blistered lips – do not let it happen to you!

Wed 23 Feb:  Uhuru Summit attempt – Disaster strikes

Finally, around 11:00 pm, as a snow flurry came down, we started out of Barafu Camp. Having completed the Machame Route in 2016, I remembered that there was a rather nasty stretch of rocks and steep uphill right out of the gate leaving Barafu. Sure enough, we were huffing and puffing almost immediately. The treacherous, even dangerous uphill stretch was much worse than I had remembered. It was rough, with huge rock slabs to be negotiated under less than ideal (wet, icy, snowy) conditions.

If I were ever to climb this route again (which is unlikely), I would absolutely make Kosovo my final base camp, not Barafu. Kosovo is about an additional hour’s hike further up the mountain, past Barafu. Climbing out of Kosovo – which we did when we hiked the Machame Route – is the smart move. Of course, that means having to include the steep, hilly stretch (leading out of Barafu) as part of the hike from Karanga the previous day. Seeing as that hike is less than 3 hours, it makes eminently good sense. It makes your summit day attempt much less strenuous not having to contend with that awful, rocky hill first thing out of the gate.

Once we had negotiated the steep, nasty stretch, we made pretty good progress and I was starting to feel confident about summiting. Conditions were ideal with no wind or snow, and it wasn’t exceptionally cold. I was just thinking that we were well on our way, with the rocky stretch leading to Stella Point being the only really difficult portion ahead, when an event occurred which would change everything almost instantaneously.

One person in our party just said, “I’m feeling a little dizzy,” almost immediately started to wobble a bit and took a few steps to a large rock, where she lost consciousness. As it turned out, she would not be  able to recall any of the subsequent events until she reached about 12,000 feet elevation at Millenium Camp on the way back down.

Later on, we realized that our team mate was suffering from HACE – High Altitude Cerebral Edema. I was aware of HACE and its cousin HAPE – High Altitude Pulmonary Edema – having done extensive reading prior to my first Kili attempt. Unless and until one of them unfolds in front of your eyes these conditions remain theoretical constructs in your mind.  

It was scary experiencing it first-hand and seeing your friend go from walking normally to being completely out of it in a matter of less than two minutes. If untreated, HACE can be fatal. We all knew what had to be done: the climber had to get emergency oxygen and be rushed to a lower altitude.

That is exactly what happened. An oxygen tube was connected and the emergency descent was started practically immediately, with assistant guide Winford taking the lead and moving ahead of us downhill at a rapid pace, physically supporting the stricken hiker. The remaining two climbers followed – at a substantially slower pace – with head guide Joseph. We paused for a short while at Barafu where the decision was made to evacuate right out of the park, and to not overnight at Mweka which would ordinarily be the case.  

We still had not seen our friend but was told that she was feeling a lot better. The descent from Barafu to Mweka is a tough downhill slog of about 3 hours along an abysmally bad, substandard, rock-strewn track. Negotiating this dangerous descent after a successful summit – as I had done before – is tough, but doing it in the dark was crazy. It is pathetic that the Kilimanjaro authorities make that particular track the only option down for hikers completing the Machame, Lemosho or Umbwe summit attempts. Since 2016 – when I first hiked down along the road after a Machame climb – few if any improvements had been made. To make matters worse we were walking in near total darkness from 3:00 am until 6:30 am. Being without spare batteries, my headlamp petered out halfway down the track, which made every step more difficult than it should have been. Fortunately we made the hazardous trek without twisting an ankle or worse.

We were finally reunited with our friend at Mweka Campsite. She was feeling much better but clearly still the worse for wear,  groggy and fatigued. We had a long 10 km (6 mile) stretch of road ahead of us to the Mweka Gate. It took us the better part of 3 hours to complete the beautiful yet tiring walk through the rainforest. With dozens of porters passing us every mile or so, we took what felt like thousands of steps down to where the jeep track terminated. Relief was in sight! Minutes later we were bundled into a vintage ambulance and drove the last few miles to Mweka Gate.  

From there it was about 40 minutes back to our Moshi Hotel where we collected our valuables and left luggage, took a very mch overdue and welcome hot shower and handed over the gratuity to Joseph and Winford to be distributed among the team. It was time to say goodbye to our stalwart guides and to head back to Arusha for the night. The next day we said our own goodbyes and went on our way to Houston, San Antonio and Johannesburg, respectively. The trip didn’t end quite the way we would have liked it to, but it was a major achievement to have climbed as high as we did under really trying circumstances. 

Three common Kilimanjaro climb pitfalls to avoid

What are the three most common mistakes made in the planning and execution of a Kili climb?

#1: Not adding an additional acclimating day and opting for the minimum # of days on a climb

Unless you are a super-conditioned athlete – and even then – attempting the Lemosho route in just seven days instead of 8, the Machame Route in just six days or the Marangu Route in just five, is looking for trouble. Spending an additional day on the mountain at altitude makes a huge difference in the chance for a successful summit. So spend a bit more time in Tanzania and pay the extra money for one more day: it will be worth your while. This is even more important on the shorter routes like Marangu and Umbwe, both of which can theoretically be done in 5 days. Definitely add an extra night on these climbs; even then your body is going to have a tough time to adjust due to the short, rapid ascent.

#2: Flying into Kilimanjaro the night before starting your Kili climb

This is not a good idea, particularly if you live in a city close to sea level and you have to take one or more long flights crossing as many as 9 or 10 time zones to get to Tanzania. Departing from sea level, spending 30-plus hours on the journey, only getting to Tanzania the night before – and then setting out on the climb the very next day – is decidedly risky. Like asking your body to go from zero to 60 mph overnight.

On the other hand, spending 3 nights or so in Tanzania at around 1,500 meters above sea level, such as in the Arusha or Moshe area, can make a decisive difference for the better. You’ve already made a significant investment in time and money to get this far, so don’t risk it by starting up the mountain too soon. Spending a few nights at a lodge such as Ngare Sero, on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru just outside Arusha, will be hugely beneficial. There’s plenty of activities to keep you busy, including hiking on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru. Get over the jet lag, rest up a bit and give your body a chance to acclimate to the mile-high altitude before you pile on more altitude over the next few days. If you’re keen, we can even arrange a 3-day hike of Mt. Meru which would be the ideal fine-tuning of your Kilimanjaro preparation.

#3: Starting off at too fast a pace

You’ve done the training, you’re feeling fit and you want to get to the top. Fast. So off you go, charging up the mountain, right out of the gate. Big mistake. Kili is not a race and there is no special certificate for beating the pack. It takes 6 or 7 days or even more, and the real test only starts around midnight on summit day. That is when a Kili climb goes from relatively easy to sometimes super difficult, depending on the conditions. Not conserving your energy earlier on will cost you dearly then. Always mind your guide’s entreaties to go slowly. Pole pole.  

Of course, several other factors come into play including good physical preparation, proper equipment, picking the best time of the year for your climb, and having a competent head guide in charge.

  

How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro: 

#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots. Do not scrimp on this purchase. The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction. Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route. Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet. Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic. Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike. Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.

Proper socks are super important. I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type. Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.

#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times. He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best. As long as you listen to him and let him lead. If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason. If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it. Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special. So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.

#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises. Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success. Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode. Avoid caffeine and alcohol. A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit is a good investment in more and better sleep. It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear. To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing. This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly. Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.

#4: Eat and drink regularly

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable: chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta. And soups. If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans. Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day. You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital. Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot! Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in. It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.

Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance. Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.

#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. Most climbers take about 125 mg daily and up to 250 mg before summit day. Be sure to consult a physician before doing so. Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people. The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination. Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal. Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.

#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date. Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights. Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills? Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week. Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches. Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso. Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.

  

In addition to, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top. And down again. The exercises which I personally do include these:

  • * Single leg step-ups 
  • * Single leg deadlifts 
  • * Single leg squats  
  • * Regular weighted squats
  • * Walking lunges       
  • * Calf lifts

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization. Maybe even some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere. Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity from one day or week to the next. Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing. And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario. A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

If you are ready to take on the challenge of Kilimanjaro, call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Kilimanjaro Rongai Route Trip Report

Hiking Kilimanjaro

Is climbing Kilimanjaro easy? You might be lulled into thinking that is so by day 5 on the Rongai Route, or at about the same point on the Machame Route. By that time you’d have negotiated a few steep and sometimes rocky uphill stretches, a couple of glacial valleys and notably, the Barranco Wall on the Machame route. And some long, grinding hikes at altitude. All in all though, you’re thinking that this is not going to be as hard as you’d imagined it might be. That is to say, if you’re not suffering too badly from the effects of altitude sickness, you’re sleeping ok and not overly fatigued.


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And then everything changes. Somewhere between leaving camp around midnight on summit day and getting down to the camp where you will be spending your last night on the mountain it becomes decidedly ‘not easy’.  This is when you find out that Kilimanjaro is not a stroll in the park.  In fact, most climbers will be tested to the very extreme of their limits, over the span of about 14 hours, starting around midnight on summit day, which lasts well into the afternoon of the following day.  On the Rongai Route, the critical first five hours would be spent negotiating the steep and relentless ascent from Kibo to Gilman’s Point.  Then another hour to Stella Point and one more hour to eventually reach Uhuru Peak.  It would not be over until you had retraced every single step to Kibo Hut and then descended all the way to Horombo Huts at 12,250 feet above sea level.


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You can do the math.  From Kibo Huts to Uhuru Peak at 19,341 feet takes from 6 to 8 hours, and the journey down to Horombo 4 to 5 hours.  So realistically you’d be looking at spending as much as 14 hours on your feet under less than ideal conditions, at altitude.  It can be extremely cold and sometimes windy, there may be lots of ice and snow, and even if there’s not, there’s rocks to climb up or down, and loose scree which holds you back going up, and becomes slippery and treacherous, on the way down.


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Easy?  Absolutely not.  Without the right equipment, preparation, training and above all expert guiding, you’d be setting yourself up for failure, if you approach a Kilimanjaro climb in a cavalier manner.  Youth is not a panacea to the pitfalls of high altitude either.  Traveling alongside us the entire time on the Rongai climb, three youngsters in their 20’s – lean and by the looks of it fit and healthy – all bailed out.  One young Danish guy was forced to quit.  When your blood oxygen level drops to the low 60 percentile as happened to him, hand in hand with other symptoms of altitude sickness, the decision to continue stops being yours.  Your head guide steps in and essentially makes the hard choice for you.  Nobody needs to risk their life to summit Kilimanjaro.  Better to come back some other time.


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Having dealt with equipment, trip preparation, the pre-climb briefing and other formalities in some depth in a previous Kilimanjaro trip report – this trip report will deal with the day to day experience, and provide some specific tips to improve one’s chances to summit.


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Day 1: Rongai Gate to Simba Camp

This morning our capable and friendly Zara Tours team weighed our main kit bags and helped us pack everything into the back of a minibus.  The four of us piled in and drove just under three hours – with a couple of stops along the way – from Springlands Hotel to Rongai Gate.  It took about 1 hour for entry formalities to be completed, while our team enjoyed some soft drinks and snacks in the roomy ‘tourist’ pavilion.  The day one hike turned out to be an easy and fairly gentle walk of about 4 km – it took just about 3 hours – to Simba campsite.


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It was down-right warm: shorts and t-shirt weather.  At Simba Camp, we were shown to our tents where our kit bags were already in place.  We did a bit of preparation for the evening, and then enjoyed some tea and popcorn.  A little bit later, dinner was served:   leek soup and grilled fish with several sides including potatoes, cabbage and yucca.  The elevation was 2,642 meter, or 8,661 feet above sea level.


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Day 2: Simba Camp to Second Cave

Today’s route ended up being a somewhat more difficult climb with long steady inclines, and a couple of rocky stretches.  About two hours or so into the walk, we emerged from the forest zone into the moorland, with attractive proteas and other macchia-type vegetation.  We walked from 08:30 a.m. to about 1:45 p.m., with several rest stops along the way.  En route, we passed by First Cave and then reached our camp site at Second Cave.


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After lunch and a short rest, we did another hike of about 1 hour up a ridge just above the cave.  Back around 4:30 for popcorn and tea.  Dinner was at 6:30 p.m.  On the day, we experienced an elevation change from 8,661 feet to 11,450 feet.


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That night, the temperatures dropped and it turned bitterly cold.  My 20-degree rated sleeping bag – even with a liner – was just not up to the task and I was cold all night, to some extent.  For Kilimanjaro, it is imperative to take a high quality sleeping bag which can protect you at sub-zero temperatures.


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Just as importantly, you need several layers for sleeping comfortably, starting with a thermal base layer.  The nights at Second Camp, at Kikilelwa and definitely at Mawenzi Tarn, were freezing to the point where we had to fill some of the Nalgene bottles with hot water to keep our feet warm.  Even that was not sufficient.


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Day 3: Second Cave to Kikilewa

Today we spent 3 hours traversing a distance of about 8 kilometers (5 miles).  It was pretty terrain filled with lots of hills, streams, and wildflowers and almost  all the time, we could see the lower stretches of Kilimanjaro and its snow-covered peak on our right and Mawenzi to our left.  Patches of fog occasionally shrouded Mawenzi, and bright sunlight lit up the snow on Kilimanjaro.


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With the exception of a few rather steep and rocky uphill stretches, overall it was another easy day.  We only gained about 600 feet on the day, climbing from 11,320 feet to 11,900 feet.  Lunch on this day was a potato stew and dinner was rice and ugali (local version of polenta) with canned baked beans and chicken with gravy.  We also enjoyed some small deep-fried ‘vetkoeks’ or fritters.  All the hiking makes a person hungry!


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Day 4: Kikilewa to Mawenzi Tarn

At Kikilewa, it was not quite as cold as the previous night due to some cloud cover.  After somewhat intermittent yet sufficient sleep (around 6 hours total), I was up at 6:00 am., with some water for washing and hot water for tea, delivered right to the tent opening, by our ever-efficient and friendly waiter.  Breakfast was at 7:30 a.m.


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Shortly after, we left the camp behind, with the trail going up steeply in the direction of Mawenzi.  The scenery was simply  spectacular with Kilimanjaro to the right, Mawenzi straight ahead and the valley towards the left.  It was a steady climb all the way from 11,800 feet, finishing up at 14,100 ft.  The hike, which was the most challenging of the trek up to that point, took about 4 hours total.

Mawenzi Tarn Camp is located beside a small lake at the base of Mawenzi Peak.  The seasonal lake – which had quite a bit of water in it at the time – attracts buffalo in the dry season.  At 4:00 p.m. we took a one hour hike to a viewpoint from where we could see both Mawenzi and Kibo.  The view was fantastic in any direction.


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Day 5: Mawenzi Tarn to Kibo

It was a long hike today, taking nearly 5 hours from Mawenzi Tarn to reach Kibo Huts.  It was not so much the 4,720 feet elevation increase which took a toll on our legs on this day, as it was the duration of the walk.  A real slog.  We negotiated a couple of hills early on and then walked across the saddle, with views of the clouds – by now we were looking down on them – to the right (north).  In total, we hiked about 8 km.  As a group, our oxygen saturation levels were still holding up well.  Two of us were over 80% and the other two were in the 70’s and none of us had any of the typical symptoms of altitude sickness.  Nonetheless, we were quite tired by the time we made it to Kibo Camp at 2:00 p.m. that day.


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Day 6: Kibo to Uhuru Summit to Horombo

Kibo to Hans Meyer Cave
After dinner, we were sent back to our tents with instructions to sleep or at least rest until we’d be woken up around 11:00 p.m., for the final assault on Kilimanjaro.  Also, we had to set aside the clothing and gear needed for what might turn out to be below zero temperatures at high elevation.  Most of us didn’t sleep much, maybe a couple of hours at best.  There was simply too much excitement, anticipation and apprehension in the air.


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At just after 11:00 p.m. we got together in the mess tent for a last bite, with some tea, coffee, toast and cookies.  Nothing heavy.  After a bit of a ‘gaiter delay’ – they can be tricky to put on and we needed Joseph’s assistance – we were on our way at around 00:30 a.m. on 25 February.


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The Rongai Route is relatively easy, until it isn’t.  The ‘not easy’ part starts almost immediately out of Kibo Camp with a steep, steady climb up to Hans Meyer Cave.  We were told that it was going to be cold around 03:00 a.m. and so it was, but not unbearably, protected as we were under multiple layers of clothing.  Beyond the cold, the challenge is to control one’s breathing.  I had previously been advised to breathe low down, pushing out the diaphragm, slowly and controlled.  At sea level breathing like that may lead to hyperventilation, but above 15,000 feet elevation it turned out to be extremely helpful.  That, plus small, measured steps, following the guide’s slow slow pace.  Pole Pole.  Which means ‘slowly slowly’ in Swahili; pronounced ‘PO/lay PO/lay’.


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Soon enough, you find your rhythm as you proceed up and relentlessly higher.  The clock ticks by.  1:30 a.m.  2:00 a.m. 2:30 a.m.  For as garrulous a bunch as we had been earlier, it got awfully quiet there for a while.  Joseph had prescheduled short breaks (for water and snacks) on the half hour.  I don’t believe we could have made it without those breaks.  For once I did not need to make any Diamox-induced pee stops.  Under the seven-plus layers of clothing we were sweating heavily despite the near-freezing temperatures.


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Hans Meyer Cave to Gilman’s Point
Once we reached Hans Meyer Cave – about halfway up the hike to Gilman’s Point – the path got steeper and we started to negotiate what seemed to be an endless series of switchbacks.  One after another, turn by turn by turn.  The loose, gravel-like scree underfoot made for extremely heavy going.  One meter forward, half a meter back.  On and on and on.  The hours rolled by and we saw several people being escorted down the mountain, their grand ambition coming to a grinding halt, their hopes unceremoniously dashed.  None of us commented on the stragglers or the climbers headed down.  Neither did we speculate as to the cause.  It didn’t feel like the done thing and it would have stirred up too much negativity.  Rather concentrate on the job at hand.  One foot in front of the other.  Up, up, up.


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By the time the sun started to rise in the east in the most spectacular fashion, I think we all knew we would make it.  Even so, the gathering dawn started to light up what was still ahead of us, the single most difficult final stretch to the crater’s edge, through a jumble of giant rocks thrown around and pushed on top of each other during a cataclysmic event which took place some 200,000 years ago.


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With what little remained of our strength, we tackled the rocks, the occasional grunt and clatter of our walking sticks the only sounds to pierce the tomb-like quiet of the high mountain.  At around 6:30 a.m. we saw it – the first milestone of three:  Gilman’s Point.  Other than a sign announcing the spot, there was not much there.  Even so, we were all mightily relieved and pleased to have reached the crater rim.  Even if we were to turn around at this point, it would have been an achievement worthy of a certificate.  Our elation was short-lived when we remembered that still ahead of us was a solid 2 hours of hiking, before we could claim to have summited Kilimanjaro.


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Gilman’s Point to Uhuru Peak
From Gilman’s Point it was another hour to Stella Point and another hour from there to Uhuru Peak.  What complicated matters tremendously, was the exceedingly thick layer of ice and snow covering the crater rim.


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For much of the way to Stella Point we were struggling along inside the narrow confines of a snow/ice ditch, our walking sticks occasionally disappearing halfway down the shaft, into the deep snow banks on either side of the ditch.  Quite a few times, we had to hop or struggle onto the snow layer right at the edge of the crater.  Just one inadvertent stumble or mistake away from disaster.  Anybody sliding down the thick snow into the crater would likely suffer grievous injury from the fall, or worse.  Joseph admonished us several times to be careful and to proceed extra slowly.  We did.  From Stella Point, where dozens of climbers from the Machame, Umbwe and Lemosho routes join the main trail to the crater rim, there was a steady stream of climbers coming and going.


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Finally, in the distance, we saw the famous Uhuru Peak sign and then heard a few squeals of delight and cheers up ahead before we rounded a corner and we could see it in front of us.  Relief and excitement flooded through us and a few tears were shed.  Embracing one another, we grinned our way through a photo op.  We did it!! Even though there was a large group of climbers hot on our heels waiting for their turn, Joseph made sure that we had enough time to get all the photos we wanted.  This was a special day and we were not going to rush it!  Reaching the top of Kilimanjaro is a great achievement and for many people the culmination of a long process of planning, preparing, training and finally traveling to Tanzania to tackle the mountain.  The feeling of being on the roof of Africa is one of exhilaration and relief mixed in with gratitude for one’s health and ability, and appreciation for the contribution of the guiding team and your own team members.  The four of us, myself as well as Valerie, Carla and Mawgan, developed into a tightly knit unit very early on in the process, and it was fitting that we reached the summit together, as a team.


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Uhuru Peak to Horombo Hut
With photos done and congratulations given and received, came the reality check that we were now faced with retracing every single step back to Kibo camp and then some.  Our final destination for the day being Horombo Camp at 12,500 feet above sea level.  By this time, we were all stretched to the limit and beyond.  I heavily doubted my own ability to make it down the mountain.  In hindsight, I think my kvetching about being totally ‘knackered’ was probably not good for team morale.  Sorry guys!


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However, we pushed on, a few choice expletives coming in handy to relieve the stress and blow off some steam.  Before long, we were back at Stella Point.  And then Gilman’s.  From there, we slithered and grunted back down the way we came up, slipped and ‘scree-skied’ down the switchbacks, passed by Hans Meyer Cave in the other direction, and finally stumbled back into Kibo Camp like modern day zombies.  Boots and all, without so much as removing a single layer of clothing, I crashed on top of my sleeping bag, falling into a hugely restorative one hour nap.


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A little more than an hour later, we hit the road again, on a seemingly endless track down to Horombo, descending from 15,000 feet to just over 12,000 feet. We had to negotiate a simply awful trail, a veritable river of rocks, stretching ahead of use like a never-ending minefield.  On and on and on it went.  Summit day finally came to an end as the sun started to set.  With our headlamps back on, we trundled over the rocks for the last kilometer or so into the surprisingly vibrant and busy Horombo Camp.  For a modest additional cost of just over US$10 per person, we upgraded to two A-framed huts with bunk beds, relishing the prospect of sleeping horizontally for a change.  It worked.  We all had a good rest and felt a lot better the next morning.


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Horombo Huts to Marangu Gate – We made it!!
The hike was far from over.  The longest single walk of the entire trip – a massive 19 km (almost 12 miles) still lay ahead of us.  After a couple of speeches, thank you’s and some singing on the part of our fantastic support crew, we refilled the water jugs, checked the snack supply, and picked up the backpacks one more time.


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Remaining as careful as we could be, we hustled down the mountain trail as fast as our tired limbs and feet would take us.  A solid six hours later, having passed through some gorgeous rain forest scenery (and some rain!), we emerged at Marangu Gate.  It was over.  After a few more photographs and a last lunch (chicken and french fries without ketchup), a short wait for our certificates and we piled into our minibus for the drive back to Moshi.


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In one of the dumpiest of hotel rooms I’ve ever stayed in (#8 at the Springlands Hotel), I picked out some items to donate to our guiding and porter team, checked a few emails and let everyone know that we were ok.  A late yet fun dinner at an exceptionally loud local restaurant ended up being the grand finale.

Still dazed and by now starting to experience calf and other leg muscle pain, being handed the official Kilimanjaro certificates by our head guide Joseph, felt like the tangible proof of the monumental effort we had individually and collectively put into conquering Kilimanjaro.


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Bert’s Tips for Improving Your Chances to Summit

So what are my top tips for a successful Kilimanjaro climb?  Here they are, based on my personal experience over two summits in 2018 (Machame Route) and 2020 (Rongai Route):

#1:  Keep your feet happy and healthy. 

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots.  Do not scrimp on this purchase.  The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction.  Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route.  Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet.  Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic.  Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike.  Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days. 

Proper socks are super important.  I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type.  Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.


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#2:  Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times.  He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best.  As long as you listen to him and let him lead.  If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason.  If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude, after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it.  Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special.  So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.


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#3: Sleep when you can. 

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises.  Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success.  Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode.  It may help to avoid caffeine and alcohol.  A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit  is a good investment in more and better sleep.  It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear.  To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing.  This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly.  Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.


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#4:  Eat and drink regularly. 

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable:  chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta.  And soups.  If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans.  Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day.  You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital.  Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot!  Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in.  It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.

Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance.  Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.


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#5:  Take the Diamox. 

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.  Most climbers take about 125mg to 250mg or so – but be sure to consult a physician before doing so.  Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people.  The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination.  Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal.  Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.


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#6:  Train, train, train.

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date.  Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights.  Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills?  Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week.  Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches.  Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso.  Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.   

In addition, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top.  And down again.  The exercises which I personally do include the following:

  1. Single leg step-ups.  Start with a low, comfortable box height and work up from there, adding dumbbells as required later.  Be sure to focus on using the front leg exclusively; avoid driving off the back leg.  Finish on the front leg only.  And then step down slowly. 
  2. Single leg deadlift.  Standing on your one leg, lift and extend the other leg backwards to reach a horizontal plane with your torso.  As you bend over to do this, keep your shoulders back and lower your arms so that your hands touch the floor surface lightly. Stay controlled and don’t let your leg muscles relax to the point where you ‘sag’ to the left or right.
  3. Single leg squats.  Standing on one leg and keeping the other one just off the floor behind you, lower your butt to the ground gently and slowly, without putting undue strain on your knee.  Keep your body weight right above your feet and don’t let your knee sway or get too far forward.  Start slowly, with just a few repeats.
  4. Regular weighted squats.  Using preferably a barbell with weights (start modestly), work some ‘regular’ squats into the routine.  Be sure to keep the weight back so that you feel the pressure in your heels, not your knees.  Squats are good for the legs as well as the glutes.  Nothing wrong with that!
  5. Walking lunges.  Start with a dozen or so walking lunges and once you are comfortable, increase the number per set and the number of repetitions or add some weight to make it a bit more challenging.
  6. Calf lifts.  Kilimanjaro can shred unprepared calves so take heed.  Standing with the balls of both feet firmly on a low step or stair, lift up as high as you can onto your toes, and then gently lower your heels as much as your ankle flexibility allows.  Rest your hands against a wall or counter to maintain your balance. 

Work your way slowly up to about 3 sets of 12 each of these exercises, about 3 times per week, and you will be heading in the right direction.  Increase the number of sets when it becomes easy or start adding some weight in the form of ankle weights, a weight belt or dumbbells. 

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization.  High intensity training like Crossfit is not recommended due to the potential for injury.  However, there’s nothing stopping you from doing some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere.  Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity, from one day or week to the next.  Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing.  And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario.  A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!


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Back to Kilimanjaro – February 2021

For the next trip up to the summit – it will be via the Marangu (‘Coca Cola’) route in in February  2021 –  here are some of the changes I will be making:

Getting a new sleeping bag capable of handling minus 20C to minus 30C temperatures

Taking a less squeaky sleeping pad

Consider using Dexamethasone (steroid) on summit day

Take a pill organizer and take some CBD along for muscle pain

Packing some clip-on crampons in case we run into thick snow and ice again. 

Photographs by Bert Duplessis, Mawgan Grace and Val Pedrami.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

 

Greater Kruger Park Area Trip Report

18th April 2023

 


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Greater Kruger Park Area Trip Report 2020

MARCH 2020

Over the span of ten days last March, Kathy and I visited six different properties in South Africa’s lowveld area adjacent to and inside the southern and central Kruger National Park.  Mostly in the Sabi Sand Reserve but also in Kapama, a private game reserve further west, and in Thornybush, a private game reserve adjacent to Kapama and bordering on the Timbavati region.

The Sabi Sand Game Reserve had received an abundance of rain in the preceding couple of months, and as a result game-viewing was challenging due to the tall grass and thick bush which limited visibility significantly.  Compared with the dry season, general game seemed to be dispersed and not readily seen.


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The Sabi Sand being what it is, even under suboptimal conditions, the game-viewing was good to excellent.  We were fortunate to experience close-up and extended views – with almost no other vehicles present – of all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals (lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos) as well as African Painted dogs (at three of the six properties), once on a hunt, and a pangolin. And a wide variety of plains game including giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, impala, kudu, warthogs and others.  The birdlife was impressive, with many of the summer migrants such as the Woodland Kingfishers and various shrikes, bee-eaters and orioles still present.

Here are my impressions and highlights of the areas and camps we visited:


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MALAMALA, SABI SANDS

Predictably, the game viewing at MalaMala was consistently good, just like it always is.  Over the course of a few game drives, we saw the Big Five mammals and plenty of plains game.  Highlights were a sighting of a leucistic (‘white’) buffalo calf and some quality time spent with a young male leopard on a walkabout.  The leopard eventually settled down on a huge boulder and gave us quite a show; most importantly we had the leopard all to ourselves for what must have been 30 minutes plus.  We were thrilled to see white rhino up close and personal and not just one rhino sighting but three!


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The guiding, accommodation, food and all-round hospitality were top-notch.  The recent refurbishment of the rooms and general areas at MalaMala Camp and Sable Camp succeeded admirably in refreshing and updating the look and feel of MalaMala.  It brought in more light and some brighter colors with a bit of pop. The private decks are larger and just perfect for lounging while game viewing and star gazing.  All bolstering MalaMala’s long-cherished ‘authentic African safari’ feel and character.  This is still THE place to experience absolutely the best game-viewing in the Sabi Sands, bar none.


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CHEETAH PLAINS, SABI SANDS

We were totally bowled over by the experience at Cheetah Plains in the northern part of the Sabi Sand.  The three houses, each with four private suites,  are simply magnificent in design and execution, and clearly no expense was spared to achieve a peaceful and luxurious retreat which is 100% personalized and where the entire experience can be tailored to your preferences. You literally have the run of the place (and what a place it is!), with complete flexibility in terms of timing, meals & beverages,  activities and overall schedule.


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We enjoyed a few splendid meals at Cheetah Plains and clearly this is a place where wine aficionados would be totally at home, with an enviable collection of South African wines.  Always a good sign when your personal favorite – in our case a Rust en Vrede Estate – is available and in stock.


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Even though our guide had to contend with excessively thick bush he nonetheless got us onto the best lion sighting of the entire trip – the Talamati pride – and also a superb and extended experience with a leopard mother and cub, on our second morning.  Another welcome surprise?  The fact that the game-drive vehicles were battery-operated:  quiet, efficient and environmentally friendly and the entire property is ‘off the grid’.


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TENGILE RIVER LODGE, SABI SANDS

Probably the best overall new lodge we have seen in many years, Tengile is in a class of its own in terms of design, comfort, privacy and sheer enjoyment value.  This is a place where I can see myself spending several days, and maybe skipping a game drive one afternoon simply to enjoy the stunning suites, each with a plunge pool, outside sala area, a lounge/sitting room with a great view, in addition to the beautifully appointed bedroom.

In the usual AndBeyond fashion, the hospitality, meals and game drives as well as the guiding were all first class.  The bar at Tengile is one of the most inviting of its kind, definitely a focal point of the common area.


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The staff at Tengile were very personable – clearly they love their jobs. We enjoyed a lunch (really a feast) in our room the day we arrived which was quite a treat – the food was delicious.  We felt very pampered and spoiled.

The game drives out of Tengile did not disappoint either.  One memorable sighting was of a pack of young African painted dogs possibly waiting for the adults to return from a hunting trip.  They seemed to get bored and created havoc chasing some game around.  One of them finally scored and ended up with a scrub hare.  It was great fun following them.


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JABULANI

Our long-awaited 3-night stay at Jabulani in the private Kapama Game Reserve lived up to and exceeded every expectation we had.  Together with our dear friends Abe & Rosanna Lambrechts from Cape Town, we experienced a superb all-round safari with excellent game-viewing, fascinating elephant interaction, an exciting and educational visit to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre, and we were served what was unquestionably some of the best food on our trip to that point. Jabulani has four chefs including a pastry chef.

The Jabulani experience started with a bang on the first afternoon, meeting three members of the Jabulani herd namely Jabulani, Sebakwe and Somopane, and having an opportunity to feed them some pellets and in the process get up close and personal with each of them.


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The elephant interaction at Jabulani is limited to this feeding and petting session, but it is quite intense and involved.  We were a group of 8 guests and we spent the better part of an hour alternating between the three elephants with ample opportunities for photography and videos.

We spent three nights at Zindoga Villa (suitable for families or 2 couples traveling together) which was beautifully appointed in a classic safari style with a thatched roof, and soothing interiors with natural mud and straw finish on some of the surfaces.


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The two main suites at the Villa each had its private splash pool, fireplace, tub, indoor and semi-outdoor shower, and a shared dining room and lounge.  A charming twin-bedded suite adjoining one of the main suites is ideal for two children or two adults sharing. From the villa, it is about a 5-minute walk along an immaculately groomed sandy path to the main lodge and dining room, overlooking a small dam. Just before reaching the lodge you cross over a sturdy suspension bridge.  The Zindoga Villa also has a private villa entrance for game drive pick ups and drop offs.

The food at Jabulani was stellar, from the first evening’s 5-course tasting menu to an elaborate bush dinner with sundowner drinks and snacks, with the elephants.  Our farewell dinner with choices such as venison loin and grilled salmon, was another delightful meal served in the cozy wine cellar.


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Most of all though, Jabulani excelled in the quality of the game viewing.  Our capable and effervescent guide Liesa was knowledgeable and fun to be around.  She also displayed a well-developed ability to anticipate and predict animal behavior, putting us in excellent positions to observe predators in action.   Most memorably, this resulted in us witnessing a spell-binding African painted dog hunt.

In addition to the painted dogs, we also spotted several prides of lions, a leopard (briefly), white rhinos and buffaloes, lots of wild elephants and a rare pangolin sighting.  Jabulani appears to be reliably good for seeing all of the Big Five mammals over the course of 3 to 4 days.


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LION SANDS TINGA LODGE

Tinga Lodge and its sister property Narina Lodge are located in a private concession in the southern area of Kruger Park, close to Skukuza Airport and Skukuza Rest Camp.  We found the Tinga rooms and common areas overlooking the Sabi River to be exceptionally attractive and well-managed.  The same was true of nearby Narina Lodge which was similar in concept and style, except that it was raised off the ground level on a boardwalk about 3 meters high.  This resulted in a  view from the front of the common area which was better than the one at Tinga.


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We enjoyed several well-prepared meals at Tinga, with the lunch on arrival being served out on the deck, a perfect spot for it. The game-viewing in the area – which was true of the game-viewing everywhere in the Greater Kruger National Park area – was challenging due to the thick bush.  Heavy summer rains had caused rank, dense vegetation with grasses obscuring pretty much everything  smaller than buffaloes, rhinos and elephants.  This was particularly noticeable in the areas around Tinga, to the point where our guide Joe (who was as good as they come) had to venture onto the public parks road in search of lions and zebras, for example.  We did get lucky with a couple of great sightings including a surprise encounter with a pack of about 6 or 7 African painted dogs.  They popped up in front of a crash of White rhinos which was what we had initially stopped for.  The best sighting overall by far, was of a massive and clearly extremely powerful male leopard which spent several minutes right in front of our vehicles, marking its territory.


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ROYAL MALEWANE FARMSTEAD

Fittingly, our last stop in the Greater Kruger Park area was at the sublime Royal Malewane Farmstead, where camp manager Nick Daneel and his team including Charne Daneel and super guide Rudi Hulshof, introducing us in splendid fashion to this iconic safari brand. I was thrilled to finally find out for myself what it was that has made Royal Malewane such a highly regarded and popular deluxe safari brand.


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Like all great brands, Royal Malewane creates quality by imbuing every aspect and facet of the guest experience with quality.  To start with, the usual new arrival formalities were dealt with as efficiently and briskly as I’ve ever seen it done.  In the room – which was a veritable work of art itself – there was a half bottle size of quality sparkling wine on ice, if one were so inclined. As a couple, we are always reluctant to open an entire 750 ml of sparkling wine (anywhere), knowing that most of it would be wasted.  Not an issue at Royal Malewane.  The mini-bar and snack bar had everything one could possibly want – and more.  The room had ample space, plenty of natural light, and a mix of practical and whimsical design and decorative elements which combined into an esthetically pleasing whole.  The Liz Biden touch was unmistakable.  I liked the fact that the suite was uncluttered, without any nooks and crannies, making the most of the available space. The back doors (French doors also located in the bathroom) opened up to a fabulous deck with an outdoor shower and an inviting splash pool.


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Shortly afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious light tapas lunch and a bit later went out on the first of two outings with our guide Rudi Hulshof, assisted by tracker Lodrick Mkansi. Over the course of 30 years in the safari business we’ve come across many excellent and a few superb guides.  Rudi quickly established himself as being in the latter group.  His pre-drive briefing was confident and comprehensive without being pedantic.  I was particularly pleased with his comments about sundowners, to the effect that people do not come to Africa to drink G & T’s  and that depending on the game-viewing scenario and flow, there may not be time for a drinks stop.  Which is exactly what happened.  We were so engrossed with a young female leopard resting on a horizontal branch and then a heart-stopping walk-by of five sub-adult lions, that a sundowner stop before sunset would have been out of place.


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Rudi’s uncanny anticipation of animal behaviour, his pithy, clear and concise comments about animal behavior,  habitat, trees and plants and any topic we cared to raise, were what we had anticipated from the highly regarded and award-winning Royal Malewane guiding team.  Between them, the team  has over 300 years of African bush experience, including no less than three of only seven living Master Trackers in the world.  

On the morning of our departure back to Jo’burg, we took a short game drive from the Farmstead to Royal Malewane where we enjoyed breakfast on the patio overlooking a well visited water hole.  It was great to finally see for ourselves what makes this place so special and famous.  The welcome from camp manager and expert guide Juan Pinto, illustrated how a few well chosen remarks can make a hugely favorable impression.  Juan complimented Kathy on her Swarovski binocs and then insisted on checking out my vintage pair of Zeiss 7 X 45’s.  Juan then offered to clean both pairs of binocs, despite having an imminent staff meeting.  That’s how you gain and retain a stellar reputation.


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The breakfast itself was splendid and attractively plated.  Cappucino for Kathy?  No problem. 

Our brief stay ended with a couple of rooms inspections, including the stunning classic Royal villa.  Nothing nouveau or cutting edge here:  just an ultra-spacious, well-lit and beautifully appointed villa with adjoining suites complete with outdoor plunge pool, indoors and outdoors showers and tub, massive king size beds with mosquito netting, and a tastefully decorated shared living and dining room area.

The same can be said of the six  individual suites.  Plenty of space, lots of light, great views from the verandah – all in all a delightful spot to spend a few days in the bush.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

Virtual Itinerary

 

A Novice Hiker on Kilimanjaro – Machame Route

13th April 2023

 


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A Novice Hiker on Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro Climb Report: Machame Route

From not even a dream to signing up
Some 30,000 people climb Mt. Kilimanjaro every year. People of all ages, widely different physical make-up and degree of fitness. Which is comforting to know in the pre-climb decision-making phase. When you’re asking yourself if you too, can do it. If you too, have what it takes to join the small crowd of people who reach the roof of Africa every year, raising both hands in triumph in front of the iconic wooden Uhuru Peak sign and looking down upon the clouds, from 19,300 feet. It is good to know that kids as young as 7 (legal age is 10), and more seasoned climbers in their mid 80’s – as well as hundreds of physically challenged individuals – make it all the way to the top, all the time. It can get a little daunting too such as when a well-meaning individual sent me a link to a video about a successful Kili summit attempt by a person who had neither feet nor hands. The implication being that it should be a cinch for an able-bodied individual like me. Thanks pal.
Looking back, my Kilimanjaro climb ambitions were hardly ever in the ‘burning desire’ category. To be sure, I had seen the mountain several times over the last 15 years or so, mostly partially shrouded in clouds. A few times flying over it en route from Johannesburg or Zanzibar to Nairobi and then again from both the Tanzania and Kenya sides, on photographic safaris. Kilimanjaro was something I wanted to get in a photograph with some elephants or giraffes between me and it. Not something I had any desire to tackle with boots and poles.
This all changed when my friend Clemson Smith-Muniz first brought up the topic a few years ago. I was somewhat intrigued, but not having done any climbing or even serious hiking, at that stage, I thought about it for a day or so and then moved on to something else. The seed was planted though. When Clemson brought it up again a couple of years later, looking for assistance to put the trip together, I thought why not and pretty much invited myself along. It was a spur of the moment decision, the kind of thing you wake up to a few days later shaking your head. You’re a runner, not a mountain climber or even a hiker. You don’t even own walking sticks or ‘serious’ boots. Kilimanjaro? Really?

Having made a rash decision to get on board, I did follow it up with a sensible move which was to get in touch with Steve Turner and his team at Origins Safaris, for advice on the best route, time of year, planning, equipment, training and selecting a competent local outfitter, who’d be responsible for our well-being and safety, and would hopefully get us to the top.

Having worked with Origins for many years, I was not surprised when I received impeccable advice and answers to all my questions as to where, how, when and with whom. We settled on the Machame Route (with an extra day to acclimate), in the month of February (least wet) and with Summits as our local operator.


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TRAINING AND PREPARATION
In retrospect, the most important thing I got right in the lead-up to climbing Kilimanjaro, was to work with our Kenya destination management company, Origins Safaris. Their training and preparation hints and guidelines, their detailed equipment list and medical preparation hints and cautionary advice, were invaluable. My personal list of things to do to give yourself the best possible chance for summiting Kili has seven items:


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Select a longer route or add a day
Over the years it has become clear that the success rate for a Kilimanjaro ascent is significantly higher on the longer routes like Lemosho (eight days) and either Machame or Rongai with one additional night added for acclimating, making them seven days each. Working with a good operator and with some solid preparation the success rate for these treks is high with most climbers making the summit or at least Stella Point. By contrast a much smaller percentage of the climbers on the Marangu route (5 days) reach Uhuru peak. A five-day climb is not long enough for proper altitude acclimatization, with the result that many climbers are affected by altitude sickness or simply turn around because of exhaustion.


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Do some hiking or climbing before you go
This may seem self-evident but climbing Kilimanjaro is physically and mentally challenging. While technical mountaineering skills and equipment are not required for the ‘regular’ routes, the sheer duration of the climb, the near daily increase in altitude and the many hours of hiking day after day will take their toll on the unprepared or poorly prepared climber. Depending on the route, you may even walk steeply down into and up out of glacial valleys. My advice is to find some hills or slopes, strap on a weighted backpack (don’t make it too heavy at first), grab your walking sticks and start hiking an hour or so, perhaps four times a week. Make it longer on weekends, and gradually increase the duration and weight. Carry at least two containers of water and stay hydrated; if you are going to use a bladder system, start using it now.
In addition, plan on doing at least one medium-high climb, such as a 14,000’ peak in Colorado or elsewhere. It’s great preparation and should give you a fair indication of your state of readiness. In my own case I really struggled on the last few hours of a Wheeler Peak ascent (13,167 feet) in New Mexico, about 5 months before my planned Kili climb. Without the help of Clemson – who helped me with my heavier pack – I likely would not have made it. In the end the Wheeler Peak experience was a major wake-up call. I immediately sketched out a training program and started hiking up and down the Buffalo Bayou levee walls with a heavy pack the very next week. It worked.


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Select and take the right gear
A Kilimanjaro ascent is challenging enough not to have inferior equipment or the lack of an essential piece of gear complicate things. A good operator will supply you with a detailed list – be sure to read it well before the trip starts. A proper Kilimanjaro kit can’t be thrown together the day before! It starts with the right kit bag (waterproof), a light day pack, layered clothing, a quality water-proof jacket and pants and most importantly – a good pair of water-proof boots. Our group found out the hard way – having to endure a tropical downpour of epic proportions on the first day – just how important a good pair of boots is. Two climbers in our group got their boots wet and that creates a potentially serious issue for the entire rest of the trek, with heat and sunshine (to dry the boots out) being scarce commodities.
Among the items not generally mentioned in packing lists but which I personally found most useful, are a cheap plastic poncho (it will keep you dry in even the worst tropical downpour) and a rechargeable Luci Light, to provide some light inside your tent. At higher altitudes you’ll be spending many hours inside a small dark tent and having some light helps to dispel the gloom and makes it a little bit more livable. Also having light (other than a headlamp) is useful to read by or to find things and to get dressed in the mornings. I found that the Luci Light received a sufficient charge to keep it going for the duration of the trip, despite the general lack of sunshine.

Stay hydrated and properly fed
Hiking for 4 hours plus pretty much every day, and as many as 16 hours on summit day makes heavy demands on one’s body. To keep your strength up you absolutely have to stay properly hydrated and well fed by drinking liquids (mostly water) throughout the day and consuming nourishing food regularly. A good quality operator like we had will serve you some nice, palatable foods at breakfast, lunch & dinner. They will also provide a steady supply of purified water – and snacks like candy bars and nuts to consume along the way. Even so it is a good idea to bring a few of your own favorite snack bars along to keep in your day-pack. I personally did not eat as many as I thought I would, but people’s mileage varies. As for hydration, a bladder system usually works well except that the tube is subject to freezing up in really cold weather. So be sure to have it well insulated or take some water in a couple of Nalgene bottles as well.

Maintain a positive attitude
Staying positive when fatigue sets in – as it inevitably will – is crucial on Kilimanjaro. When the conditions turn sour, or you’re suffering from blisters, a lack of sleep, diarrhea or nausea, feeling down and starting to doubt your own ability is understandable and even predictable. This is where perseverance plays a key role. It is easier said than done but simply putting one foot in front of the other and not dwelling on how many more hours you have left on the day, is the best strategy. It is all about dealing with the next 20 meters and not worrying about what tomorrow will bring. Your guides and porters as well as your fellow climbers will help to cheer you up and having them around to talk about what to wear the next day, seeking advice for issues you may be experiencing and to share a few stories and jokes, is invaluable.


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Take your time
On Kilimanjaro – as in any high altitude environment – taking it slowly and literally step by step is definitely the way to go. It is one of the first things your guide will talk about – ‘pole pole’ or ‘slowly slowly’ in Swahili – and you will hear the phrase repeated constantly. There is no shame in falling behind a bit on a day on which you may just not be able to keep up. Better to take your time on the way up rather than burning an excess of energy and running out of steam a day too soon. You may be surprised about how slow the initial walking is; even along flat terrain and on slopes where you’d ordinarily speed things up quite a bit. Not on Kili: every ounce of energy is going to be called on when summit day comes around, so save it for then.


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Have a game plan for Summit Day
Summit Day is when you’ll be tested to the limit, so my advice is to have at least a mental game plan for the day. Here are a few of the most important things to think about and plan for:
Make sure to dress properly: do what you can to keep your fingers and toes warm, take good care of your feet (sock selection, lubricant), stay hydrated.
Even more importantly, plan for an extra-long day which may run from around midnight to well into the next afternoon. Keep something in reserve.
There are no brownie points for carrying your own pack on this day so ask an assistant guide or porter to help you with it. It may make the difference between summiting or not.
Be ready to shift down into a mental low gear – call it mountain 4-wheel drive – for the several hours on the last, steep ascent up to Stella Point. By then it will be an effort to lift up your leg for each ledge and rock. Knowing this in advance will not make it easier but the fewer surprises the better.
Remember to conserve a little energy and enthusiasm for the way down. You’ve got maybe 5 hours to go after reaching the summit…

The days before the trek starts
If you can fit it in, spend a few days in Kenya or Tanzania on safari before you tackle Kilimanjaro. It will help you to deal with the jet lag of course, and if you live at sea level, you’ll be acclimating to an altitude of 3,500 to 6,000 feet or so, if you include the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.
Prior to our Feb. 2017 Kilimanjaro climb, we did just that, spending several days in the Southern and Central Serengeti prior to flying back to Kilimanjaro. The day before the trek we met with head guide Daniel Kilango (200+ Kili summits under his belt!) and Leila of Summits for a detailed briefing, which entailed going over the day to day program and route and covering the ‘golden rules’ of the mountain (go slow is #1). Daniel did an individual gear check and I was happy to receive a ‘well-prepared’ rating. Among the items which he specifically asked about were Nalgene bottles because a Camelbak may freeze up on the last day.


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Machame Route Days 1 & 2: Machame Gate to Shira Camp

Day 1: Machame Gate to Machame Camp
We were up early at 0600A for final preparations and we all enjoyed a good solid breakfast at Machweo Wellness. Excitement levels were through the roof! Except for one member of our party who had to abandon the attempt even before it started, due to incipient lung issues. Sorry Clemson! At 0830A we departed for Machame Gate via Moshi, driving through a rural area with scattered homes along the way. The distance was about 50 kilometers total and it took an hour and a half or so.
It took a good 90 minutes to complete the formalities at Machame Gate. We had to sign in, get our stuff weighed and obtain permits. Most of this handled by the competent Summits team. While waiting for some of this to happen, we enjoyed hot tea and coffee and biscuits in a pleasant picnic area.
Finally, around 11:40A we walked through the gate into Kilimanjaro National Park. Our great trek were to start in earnest. Right away we saw a troupe of Blue Monkeys in the trees. We did not see much in the way of wildlife – even birds – after that. Not that it mattered. We were soaking in the beautiful and serene rain forest environment with giant trees towering above us.
Perhaps 2 hours into the hike, we heard some thunder in the distance, but it wasn’t until 30 minutes later that it started to rain. At first lightly and then hard. A veritable tropical deluge, dumping buckets of water on us with near constant lightning which thankfully remained well above us.
By now we had donned our raingear which included Gortex jackets, ponchos, backpack covers, gaiters and rain pants. As it turned out our gear was only partially waterproof – most of us ended up with unwanted water somewhere: boots, backpacks, clothing. My Asolo boots held up well in the severe rainstorm and in fact throughout the climb, earning a 100% waterproof check. Incidentally, a cheap ultra-thin 50 cent plastic poncho ended up being the star of the day in the gear category: it did a sterling job of keeping the rain out of my backpack.
By the time we got to Machame Camp at about 6:00P it had stopped raining and the air was clean with pockets of blue sky. After a stirring welcome song from our group of 30 porters, cooks, butler and assistant guide, we were shown to our tents. Roomy enough for one person, the tent had a mattress and sleeping bag with pillow. We freshened up with a bowl of hot water, changed into warm clothing and made our way to the mess tent. While dinner was being prepared we had some hot tea and coffee and popcorn. Served a bit later, dinner was an elaborate and nicely prepared spread of parsley potatoes, spinach, a vegetable mélange and tilapia. On the side? A couple of local specialties – ugali and maharage, a local bean dish.
Just before dinner our head guide Daniel conducted the first of what would be daily individual assessments, asking each of us how much water we had consumed, if we had a headache, suffered from fatigue, dizziness, or diarrhea. Each of us also got a finger oximeter reading with most of us checking in with a reading in the low nineties Pretty good.
A quick briefing on what to expect for the next day and then it was off to bed with the temperature dropping fast. I slept surprisingly well – close to 7 hours.


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Machame Route Day 2: Machhame Camp to Shira Camp
I did not need the 6:00A wake-up call on this day, having been up and getting ready since 5:40A. It is quite the rigmarole to get ready for a day’s trek on Kili. It is not only about what to wear on the day but also about what to have in your day-pack: camera, sunscreen, lip balm, energy bars, rain gear, an extra fleece, gloves. The list gets pretty long.
After a bit of a delay we got going around 08:00A and immediately out of Machame Camp we started a steep rocky ascent which continued almost unchanged in terms of level of difficulty for nearly 9 kilometers. It was everything one may have anticipated on a Kilimanjaro climb: tough, relentless, challenging and even dangerous in a few spots where a slip on a wet rock may have resulted in injury. No massive cliffs so not potentially deadly but scary nonetheless. One more reason to wear grippy boots and use poles.
There were several spots where the poles were redundant and even a bit of a nuisance, such as when we had to use both hands to clamber up or down. Even so they were very much worth taking along. We experienced a little more rain but nothing serious, not even close to the previous day’s deluge. Just as well. By about 3:00P after a long, slow hike we arrived at Shira Camp, happy to be serenaded again by our crew of porters and other camp staff.
A late lunch (chicken & pasta main course) was followed by a couple of hours of down time. I found a spot with cell phone coverage (a line of other people on a ridge right outside of camp) so managed to get a few texts out. The views from Shira Camp were spectacular with the summit visible in the distance. On the other side of camp there were more stupendous views over the Moshi area and of Shira Cathedral. Dinner was again delicious and filling – white rice, a beef stroganoff stew, steamed vegetables, ugali and more. After our nightly physical assessment, and briefing for the day to come, it was early to bed to get sufficient rest.


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Machame Route Days 3 & 4: Shira Camp to Karanga

Machame Route Day 3: Shira Camp to Barranco Camp
Another big day with a lengthy up and down hike out of Shira Camp. The first 5 hours of the climb traversed open, desolate terrain with little in the way of vegetation or animal life. For the most part the trail was not excessively steep but quite long, a total of 15 km for the day.
Our first objective was to reach lava Tower, an impressive rock formation, for lunch. Surprisingly and rather miraculously our mess tent had already been set up by the time we got there at 12:30P and lunch (soup and sandwiches) with chicken and potatoes, was served shortly afterwards.
After lunch, we made a quick descent (2 hours) to Barranco Camp where we would spend the night. Right opposite the camp and clearly visible on arrival, is the daunting Barranco Wall, a steep cliff which we would traverse the next morning. We could see the deserted switchback trail which we knew would be thronged with climbers, porters and guides the next morning.
Barranco Camp is a pretty spot, with the wall on one side and a valley on the other. As usual, our tents were clustered together in one spot, not far from each other, with a convenient toilet tent ( ‘the helicopter’) nearby, and a mess tent some distance further. Other components of the camp were a kitchen tent as well as tents for the porters, chefs, camp assistants and guides.
Barranco is the prettiest of the campsites we have seen this far. Almost surrounded by mountains, it feels like a large rock island suspended among the hills.
Dinner was again served at 6:30P to enable us to get a good night’s rest. This time around, it was garlic bread, zucchini soup, spaghetti with ground beef.
Cell phone coverage (Airtel) is good at Barrranco, particularly along a rocky ridge which bisects the camp. Several people could be seen out and about, either in conversation or staring intently at a small screen. Different setting, same behavior.


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Machame Route Day 4: Barranco Camp to Karanga
On this day we tackled the Barranco Wall. For some reason I had the completely wrong idea about the size of this natural barrier which constitutes one of the Machame Route’s biggest challenges.
It is not called a wall for no reason. Essentially a cliff face more than 800 feet high, the trail up the Barranco Wall is a test of strength and agility and is not for the faint at heart. The mix of tight switchbacks, ledges, solid rock slabs and narrow gaps is formidable indeed. Two areas are a test for practically anybody except the youngest and most agile among us. The ‘kissing rock’ is one of them. At a certain point I found myself with all my weight on the tip of my left boot, having to swing my right leg around a gap of a good 5 feet or so. It doesn’t sound like much on paper, but in the actual situation one slip could have a disastrous outcome.
After about 2 hours we reached the summit of the ridge where we – and a bunch of other people – relaxed for a while to enjoy the achievement and marvel at the views.
I hadn’t mentioned it up to now but believe me the views on the Barranco Wall and specifically from its summit, are among the most spectacular of the climb. To the east the peak of Mt. Meru (15,000) could be seen emerging from a cloudy basin. While to the north-west, the Kilimanjaro massif could be viewed clearly, its side streaked with two large snow glaciers.
We posed for some pics, got some more water and enjoyed a light snack and then continued. The descent on the other side was a test too: steep and gravelly in parts, one had to be extremely careful not to slip and take a dive.
The trail ended at a stream where many porters could be seen refilling water containers.
After another brief respite we carried on by negotiating a very steep, yet thankfully relatively low hillside, leading directly to Karanga Camp. The altitude of this camp (13,066 feet) is about the same as Shira Camp which we had left 2 days ago. The overnight at Karanga added a 7th day to our trip, the better option compared with the 5-night trip which skips Karanga, continues on to Barafu (another 4 hours) and culminates with a summit attempt that very night.
Spending the night at Karanga enables one’s body to better adjust to the high altitude and improves the chance for success on the final ascent, quite significantly.
The next day we were going to push slightly beyond Barafu to Kosovo Camp. By the time we reached Kosovo we’d have completed a short but punishing section of the final ascent route. So the following day would be the big day: Early out of Karanga and on to Kosovo where we would try to get a few hours’ sleep until a midnight departure for the roof of Africa, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro at 19,300 feet.


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Machame Route Days 5 & 6: Machame Gate to Shira Camp

Machame Route Day 5: Karange to Barafu/Kosovo
After another decent nights’ sleep (I was awake a couple of times), I was up by 5:45A for all the preparations for the day’s hike. New on the menu? Trying out a pair of sock liners. My feet felt good for the duration of the walk so I decided t wear them again for the summit attempt starting at 30 minutes past midnight on this day.
Our hike this day took us through and up a fairly steep path through a high plain littered with small and large rough-textured black rocks.
To our left Kibo peak could be seen clearly, a large white glacier reflecting the sun. At one stage we watched a commuter-type aircraft circle the mountain for what must have been some splendid views before it headed off in the direction of Arusha.
At the crest of this rise the trail dipped down into a glacial valley, only to rise again quite sharply (some rock-hopping involved) before we got to Barafu. Barafu is a large camp, being the main springboard for Kibo for the Machame, Umbwe and Lemosho routes. We checked with the local warden and rested for about 20 minutes or so (I enjoyed a Mars bar, a small banana and 250ml of juice) before setting off again for Kosovo. As I had mentioned previously this put us about an hour closer to the summit. We were all happy with this decision because the first hour out of Barafa was one of the most difficult stretches yet; a steep hill littered with large slabs of rock scattered in helter-skelter fashion. Several times we were simply climbing over and around rocks and negotiating patches of flat rock, rather than following any marked trail.
Completing this section of the trail at night would have been significantly more strenuous and tricky. We got to Kosovo at around 11:30A, enjoyed a great lunch of ‘kuku and chips (fried chicken and French fries) about an hour later. The mountain was clearly visible and very much dominated the landscape, looking right in front of us. To the east Mawenzi Peak could also be seen from time to time.
The idea is to get some sleep in preparation for the evening’s summit attempt. I gave it a shot and managed maybe a one hour nap, but that was it.


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Machame Route Day 6: Kilimanjaro Summit
At 1030P on the night of our summit attempt we were up and getting ready. Boots? Check. Gaiters? Check. Walking sticks, bandanas, fleece, thermal underwear? Check. The list is a long one. The temperatures can drop to well below zero Fahrenheit (-16 Celsius) and rain is also a factor, so all bases need to be covered.
By 11:30P we sat down in the mess tent for a light breakfast (oats and toast) and right on the dot at 12:20A on Thursday 23 February we walked out of the camp in single file, following our head guide Daniel up the trail in the direction of Kili.
Almost immediately the elevation started to increase and just to make things interesting, we were climbing in complete darkness with not even the moon providing some ambient light.
As opposed to our daily hike to get to this point, the summit day was ‘all business’ and there was not a lot of light banter going on as usual. The prospect of hiking nearly 7 hours in the dark while negotiating difficult and sometimes potentially dangerous terrain tends to focus one’s attention on the job at hand. One step at a time. Pole Pole.
As the hours slipped by and we inched our way ever higher along the winding trail leading to the edge of the crater, I tried to comfort myself with the knowledge that in terms of actual distance, we did not have far to go. It didn’t help much.
To say that the climb was hard would be an understatement. Its duration and intensity combine to make it one of the hardest things most people will attempt in their entire lives. From 16,000 to 19,000 feet and above, the human body is simply not capable of utilizing blood oxygen as effectively as at lower altitudes. Most people attempting this 7-hour uphill climb are not yet acclimated to such high altitudes, having spent just a few days at 10,000 feet plus.
This manifests itself in shortness of breath, fatigue & dizziness, all of which negatively impact one’s performance at altitude. Every high step onto a rock or ledge became an effort and I wondered how much more of this I was going to be able to handle. By this time I was totally gassed and it took every ounce of perseverance and determination to keep going. The same could be said of my fellow climbers.
Just about then, I heard voices. The relief flooded over me – obviously we must be close to Stella Point! And so it was; not 10 minutes later we were sitting down at Stella Point for a really well-earned cup of hot tea. Uhuru Peak was about an hour away, along a fairly gentle slope compared with what we had just been through.
By now the morning light was starting to illuminate the striking natural beauty of the area. Brilliant white glaciers against a dark blue morning sky, a dense band of clouds obscuring the surrounding forest areas, and of course the massive crater itself with the ash pits visible from afar.
Although Uhuru Peak itself is a somewhat nondescript jumble of rocks not a lot higher than its surroundings, reaching it is a milestone of epic proportions for ‘every day’ climbers. And for many people it is a huge big check on their bucket list. The official TANAPA synopsis describes it as ‘the physical and photographic manifestation of one of the worlds’ signature adventures: conquering the highest mountain in Africa. From a personal perspective, the high point for me was seeing the familiar Uhuru sign slowly emerge from the gloom and reveal itself in the foggy mountain air. We did not linger long: took our turn (yes there was a short line) for the summit pic in front of the sign, big grins hiding the fatigue and sleep deprivation. We did it!


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So how difficult was it – really?
If anyone ever says that climbing Kili is ‘easy’, they are not doing it from the perspective of most of the thousands of persons who attempt to do it every year. For them, like us, it was a monumental endeavor which required good planning, proper equipment, lots of support, and a good amount of training and preparedness.
Climbing Kilimanjaro is challenging and can be dangerous (altitude sickness is a potentially deadly condition) yet it continues to attract thousands of people every year. Why? Kili is accessible and for all the popular tourist routes, no technical mountain climbing gear or skills are required.
Kilimanjaro pushed me to the limit of my physical resources and demonstrated that if one wants to hike one of the routes and enjoy the experience, a high level of physical fitness and endurance – while not mandatory – make it challenging but doable, rather than a grueling trek punctuated by some punishing climbs.
For the most part our daily hikes on the Machame Trail were long and arduous, but none of them was a supreme test of fitness. The 7-hr hike to the Crater on the last day, is where one’s physical prowess or the lack of it becomes evident. If you’re relatively fit and did some pre-climb training, it will be hard but manageable and – well – fun. Show up in bad shape and you will pay dearly in the form of having to bail out. Of course illness and external factors such as altitude sickness, lack of sleep, come into the equation as well. The arduous summit day climb is pretty much the same for the Machame, Umbwe, Lemosho, Rongai and Marangu routes.
As if the day wasn’t long enough already, we had to hike down from the Crater rim to our campsite (Kosovo) and from there to Mweka Camp. All in all this took another 5 hours of hiking, starting with a couple of hours or so of ‘scree-skiing’ down steep paths. By now our legs were pretty much shot. Not far out of Kosovo, the trail started to get a lot steeper. It turned out to be a real slog with the trail dipping down from the highland plateau to the forest via some abrupt steps, with boulders instead of bricks, and lots of protruding natural rock formations. Also, it was wet on the day which made this physically taxing trail even more of a challenge than one would expected.
Finally we made it to Mweka campsite which was quite large with two huge campsites filled with hundreds of hikers year-round. It felt good to realize that the we had nailed it, Kili was ours. We slept well that night.


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Machame Route Day 7: From Mweka back to Moshi – The End

It’s never over until it’s over and so it was with Kilimanjaro. Before we could enjoy our first shower in a week, we had to walk down from Mweka Camp all the way to the Mweka Gate, about 10k or 6 miles. All downhill. Wet and slippery to boot, with hundreds of steps and rocky drops testing one’s agility and balance constantly.
Of course we were happy and rested by now, having enjoyed a good and long night’s rest at around 10,000 feet the previous night. Even so, piled on top of the previous day’s extraordinary test of endurance, it was something. My quads took a beating which I was reminded of over the following two or three days because of delayed onset muscle soreness.
Earlier that morning, just before leaving camp, the camp crew and guides had given us a rousing farewell with a few songs extolling our virtues (or so we hope) and ending with the traditional Kilimanjaro Jambo song.
We opted to have the tipping included in the price to be distributed by the tour operator office. It is also possible to use this farewell event to hand the tips directly to the persons involved, which in retrospect may have been a better choice. We will revisit this issue for any future attempts.
We reached Mweka Gate at around 1100A, checked out, received our completion certificates and then were treated to a sparkling wine celebration in the parking lot.
Back in the vehicle we set off for Moshi Town for a quick shopping interlude. Most of the other customers were tourists too and the prices were marked in US$. Nonetheless they had a good variety of items from $10 shirts to Tanzanite stones costing several thousand dollars. And everything in between: wooden carvings, drums, ceremonial sticks, place mats, bracelets, wall hangings and more.
After a lunch of kuku and chips at a small kiosk, we drove the 45 minutes or so to Arusha and that was that. A short debriefing from Leila of Summits, last farewells and our Kilimanjaro adventure had come to an end. The following day we’d be heading off to Amboseli in Kenya for somewhat more distant looks at Kili, hopefully with a Tusker in hand!
Would I do it again? Yes – a return to Kilimanjaro to summit via the Rongai Route is in the planning stages. The trip will include a few days in Kenya prior to the climb.
Would I recommend a Kili attempt for others? Yes again. If you think you can do it, you probably can. Do some hiking, build up your leg strength and of course – pole pole.
What would I do differently? I would certainly try to get a bit more lean before getting on a plane for Kilimanjaro – and I would take more photographs. I think I was too pre-occupied with simply climbing and making it, the first time around, to properly document this amazing adventure.


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