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Zambia

East or Southern Africa: your choice

8th February 2026

East or Southern Africa:  your choice

Choosing between East and Southern Africa for a safari is hardly ever an open and shut case, or a definitive ‘yes or no’ for one or the other. Time of the year is the best place to start. The best time for a southern Africa trip is from about April-May through September. From October onwards it can get uncomfortably hot in countries like Botswana and Zimbabwe, and the summer rains (what there is of it) start to fall around November onwards, peaking in Jan/Feb/March. 

On the topic of high temperatures, fortunately more and more Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia operators are beginning to acknowledge that heat is an issue and are installing eco-friendly ‘Evening Breeze’ evaporative coolers which cool down tent interiors to the point where guests can look forward to a good night’s sleep.

Likewise for East Africa (Kenya & Tanzania), the best time to travel is from June through October (roughly speaking the migration months), with the long rains falling from March through May and the short rains in November. January and February are also worth considering as they are both relatively dry months with a lot less visitor traffic than during the traditional migration season. January and February are also the best months for visiting the southern Serengeti in Tanzania, where the wildebeest herds are congregated for the calving season. In my opinion, this is one of the best times of any to visit Tanzania, combining the central and southern Serengeti.  

The choice between traveling to East Africa versus Southern Africa often comes down to the responses to a few of these questions:  

Wildebeest migration, yes or no?

If you definitely want to witness or at least put yourself in an ideal spot for the annual zebra and wildebeest migration, then Tanzania’s northern Serengeti or Kenya’s Masai Mara are the best bets, from about July through October. That being said, we are not huge fans of the traditional high season ‘migration madness’ which often results in overcrowded conditions in the northern Serengeti and parts of the Masai Mara. A much better option is to travel to Tanzania in February-March, when the wildebeest herds are massed together in the southern Serengeti’s short grass plains in the greater Ndutu area for the calving season. Not nearly as many other vehicles around as in the north during the migration season, and awesome game viewing with the mixed herds of zebras and wildebeest often massing together and providing spectacular photographic opportunities. Predators are as active as they can be and it is not unusual at all to see more than one cat in a tree (both lions and leopards) on a single game drive.  

First safari?

If yes then my top suggestions are Kenya or South Africa. Simply because both of these countries have so much diversity of wildlife, scenery, activities and cultural experiences. Also, the tourism infrastructure in Kenya and South Africa are second to none. There are easy flight or road connections to just about every major area. Primarily though, it is about the abundance of wildlife in areas such as the greater Kruger Park in South Africa and the Masai Mara in Kenya. On a 10-day safari in Kenya you will see as many as 40+ different species of mammals, including the ‘Big Five’ – and in several places there it is not unusual to see as many as six or seven different large mammals at the same time. In South Africa various private game reserves like the Sabi Sands and Timbavati are renowned for their big cat sightings – notably leopards – and they are likewise Big Five destinations. Which means that over the course of a 3-night stay you are likely to see lions, leopards, buffalos, elephants and rhinos. Together with the other signature African plains game species like giraffes, zebra, various antelope and others. 

Active safari?

If yes then Southern Africa is the best choice as it has a much wider range of ‘out of the vehicle’ activities compared with most of East Africa. These range from walking to hiking and even canoeing and horseback riding just to name a few. Nothing beats a Zimbabwean ‘full pro’ guide pulling over the vehicle mid game drive to take you on foot and up close to some of these large mammals. Something like this happens organically in areas like Hwange National Park or in the Mana Pools all the time. Likewise in Zambia where the concept of ‘foot safaris’ first took hold and was popularized. This doesn’t imply that there are no active safari options in East Africa. Incorporating them into an East Africa trip just takes a bit more forethought and planning and they are rarely spontaneous events. 

Interaction with primates?

If you want to see gorillas and chimpanzees then Rwanda and Uganda are the ticket and a visit to either of these countries can quite easily combine with a more traditional East African safari. For a ‘primate specific’ trip Uganda is head and shoulders the best single destination, as visitors can combine chimp treks in Kibale with gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Park. Over the years, we have personally observed the Kibale chimpanzee experience improve from being a ‘hit and miss’ event to now being much more reliable. We are hearing the same thing from other tour operators. 

A dark horse for chimpanzees is Greystoke Mahale Camp in the remote Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania. The Mahale Mountains chimpanzees have been studied by Japanese scientists for more than 50 years now and a visit to Greystoke opens up an entire new world of chimpanzee behavior to guests. Some of it is simply astonishing, such as the fact that a propensity towards ‘evil,’ as we would describe it, seems to be an inborn trait in some of the chimps. Not learned behavior. We’re talking lethal aggression, murder, infanticide and gang-warfare. The fact that Greystoke Camp sits right on one of Africa’s most amazing lakes – Lake Tanganyika – adds another entire dimension to a trip to that spot. Greystoke and the Mahale Mountains can and should ideally be combined with a few days at another western Tanzania park – Katavi – for wildlife viewing. In the dry season it is superb and the wildlife sightings there can reach epic levels, such as when hundreds of hippos are jammed together in relatively small muddy pools, awaiting the first rains.  

If you’re considering either Southern or East Africa and are having a hard time deciding which it should be, by all means give us a call and leave a message with our service any time – you will get a call back. 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222. Or contact Jason by email at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com.  

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Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park – in the Hot Dry Season

5th February 2026

Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park – in the Hot Dry Season

The South Luangwa region of Zambia in late October is not for everyone. Even before arriving in Zambia I knew that it was going to be hot and dry and so it was. Just more so. A lot more so. The first clue was a bumpy descent into Mfuwe Airstrip on a 29-seater Proflight British Aerospace Jetstream 41 aircraft on a late morning flight from Lusaka. A more reliable indication of what lay ahead was the pilot informing us that the temperature on the ground was 38C. In Texas that would be a cool 97F.

Of course you don’t have to visit Zambia in October. Any time from May through the end of August would be better to avoid the worst of the heat. Together with a few other tour operators I was on the equivalent of what the British would call a busman’s holiday. Doing for pleasure what you ordinarily do for work. Which is why we found ourselves in ‘the valley’ in late October. We do not usually recommend the area for our North American guests at that time of the year. Upon asking around it appears that British and at least some European visitors are not quite as averse to the extreme temperatures as we are. To each his own.  

This last October trip was my fifth visit to the area and together with several other Zambia trips done by members of our team, we now have a pretty good idea of what makes South Luangwa National Park – and by extension all of Zambia – a worthwhile candidate as a safari holiday destination.

Wild unspoiled rivers

The Luangwa River dominates the south Luangwa National Park. Not surprisingly, the majority of the camps in the park are either right on the river or not far from it. In the dry season the river is a veritable lifeline, its steadily diminishing water sustaining many species of mammals, reptiles and birds, until the first rains show up in November. 

Elsewhere in the country major rivers like the Kafue in the west and the mighty Zambezi which flows west to east along Zambia’s border with Zimbabwe to the south, are just as important and just as impressive. 

Whether the Luangwa is at its lowest flow ever – as it was last October – or the Zambezi is at flood stage as we’ve seen it previously – rivers and safaris are like peanut butter and jelly. Beyond their life-sustaining value to surrounding communities, rivers attract wildlife, provide opportunities for activities like boating and canoeing, fishing and even photography. We’ve taken some of our best photographs on safari from the stable platform of a boat or pontoon. And some of our finest moments on safari in Zambia have been in and along rivers. Enjoying a leisurely lunch drifting down the Zambezi on an outing from Chiawa a few years ago and twice (not just once) being prevented from walking straight to our rooms at Lower Zambezi camps due to elephants by the jetty. That’s Zambia. That’s Africa. 

Unique mammal species

Look closely at the first giraffe you come across in the South Luangwa NP. It’s not your garden variety plains or Burchell’s giraffe. Being slightly smaller in stature with smaller, more compact dark patches, having an overall darker appearance and a more recurved upper mouth makes it a Thornicroft’s giraffe, an endemic subspecies. Matter of fact the South Luangwa National Park came into existence in 1947 for the specific purpose of safeguarding the then dwindling number of Thornicroft’s giraffes. 

Another unique species to the valley is the handsome Cookson’s wildebeest. An endemic subspecies found mostly just there. It’s a noticeably lighter gray/brown color than the regular blue wildebeest and it’s also larger with bigger horns. 

Elsewhere in Zambia the Kafue lechwe – a subspecies of the common or lechwe – are still easily seen on the Busanga Plains but their numbers have been steadily declining due to habitat loss and human encroachment. Competition with cattle for food and contamination of their drinking water by surrounding human communities are putting further stress on the animals. 

For first time visitors to Africa – or guests who may have spent time elsewhere in Africa on safari – any of the major Zambia national parks would deliver a first-class wildlife viewing experience. Combining two or even three of them is even better, such as Lower Zambezi and South Luangwa, or South Luangwa and Kafue.  

High density of hippos

If you’re keen to see hippos in the wilderness, then Zambia will be your jam. In the South Luangwa, all along the Zambezi, in the Kafue and other rivers and dams, they’re present pretty much everywhere, often in great abundance. Towards the end of the dry season – such as when we were there last October – there are sometimes hundreds of them jammed together in rapidly shrinking hippo pools, testing their own and each other’s limits as they hunker down and wait for the rains. With their watery homes rapidly disappearing around them and having to walk many kilometers each night in search of food, they are stressed and cranky. So treat them with the utmost respect and keep your distance at all times.

An abundance of predators 

Practically the second mammal which we saw in the south Luangwa this time around (last October) was African painted dogs on my very first game drive from Chichele Presidential Lodge in the South Luangwa area. Within the next couple of days we added leopards and lions, hyenas and jackals – and a sighting of a different pack of painted dogs.  

Every one of our Zambia visits over the years have been notable for excellent big cat and other predator sightings. A standout sighting on the very first trip – on a night drive from Kaingo – was a lion charging a leopard. The leopard had inadvertently been lit up by our tracker’s spotlight. Fortunately the leopard escaped by scampering up a tree. On that same trip we had several other leopard sightings in the South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi areas, and good lion sightings in Kafue. Noticeable on night drives in the South Luangwa is that the guides immediately start to look for leopards when seeing hyenas. The hyenas having cottoned on to the fact that the leopards often drag prey around and that they can either be coerced to or accidentally drop or abandon the hard-won carcass. 

A  visit to Musekese Camp in Kafue a few years ago left us astonished at the number of leopards present in the area around the camp and we were fortunate to see several of them. It felt very much like the Sabi Sand Reserve in South Africa, just without any other vehicles around.  

Yet another memorable predator sighting took place in the Lower Zambezi on a game drive from Kutali. On that occasion we experienced – in all of its rather grim reality – a pack of African painted dogs killing and devouring an unfortunate chacma baboon. The dogs were hunting and we were following them as they were running and occasionally jumping  through a grassy floodplain, their eyes fixed on a small group of impalas in the distance. A young male baboon inadvertently got in the way and opportunistically three of the dogs dispatched him in a matter of minutes, right in front of our eyes and with me shooting multiple never-to-be-published photographs.

Limited number of vehicles 

We’ve personally had several days go by on safari in Zambia without seeing any other vehicles, specifically in the Kafue National Park. In some parts of the South Luangwa National Park such as in the Mfuwe area, this is not always the case as there are several lodges in the area. Even so, it is unusual to see more than a handful of vehicles, even around predator sightings. Most of the time it’s just you, the guide, the wilderness and wildlife.  

Range of properties 

There was a time when Zambia did not have the same variety of accommodation options as other Southern Africa safari destinations, such as South Africa and Botswana. That is no longer the case. On the basis of what I have personally seen over the last few years, I now rate the range and diversity of Zambia’s safari properties to be every bit as good as anywhere else. Nowadays, the range of Zambian accommodation options stretches from basic bush camps all the way to the most sublime deluxe lodges. The choice is yours: an authentic wilderness experience in a remote, tiny bush camp or a few days of being pampered in a deluxe lodge – and everything in between.  

This variety was on full display during our recent trip. Classic bush camps, some with as few as three rooms, larger ‘proper’ brick & mortar lodges along the Luangwa, a quaint old-fashioned camp with several comfortable ‘rondavel’ style rooms, midrange tented camps and deluxe air-conditioned lodges with every luxury one can imagine. That’s just in the South Luangwa: further afield there are just as many options. The Lower Zambezi has an equally stunning array of properties ranging from fairly basic, small tented camps (in gorgeous locations on the edge of the most atmospheric albida forests) to deluxe tented and hybrid lodges on the Zambezi, with all the luxury anyone could want, including air conditioning.  

The Kafue area – while massive – does not have quite as many properties to choose from, but the range is impressive, nonetheless. It’s all there from rustic bush camps to deluxe tented properties, even a lodge with rooms in the style of elevated  bird’s nests, on the edge of the Busanga Plains.  

Top quality guiding

Zambia and its southern neighbor Zimbabwe are known for the quality of their guides. We’ve personally experienced some extraordinarily good guiding in Zambia, particularly on ‘out of the vehicle’ excursions when the guides can demonstrate the breadth and depth of their experience and knowledge. Zambia is where ‘foot’ safaris first became popular so they are almost always on the list of available activities. If you’re so inclined and have the time and opportunity, by all means go on a walk. Being on foot in big game terrain changes everything.

If you’re considering a Zambia trip, or would like to get a little more information about the trips which we do there, please contact Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com. Or call us at 713-467-5222 and leave a message with our answering service – we will call you back promptly. 

Property photos courtesy Chiawa, Chisa, Classic Zambia and Bushcamp Company.

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A Warm Welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

24th February 2025

A warm welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

Listening to and soaking up the soft gurgling of the Zambezi River at 6.30 am on a cool summer morning last December at Royal Chundu Island Lodge in Zambia was about the best start to a day I’ve had in years. Adding to the sense of serenity and calmness which a setting like that engenders were the naturally soothing sounds of birdcalls. At least five or six different birds made it patently obvious that they liked being there that morning just as much as I did. 

Few safari lodges anywhere in Africa look as good during the day as they do at night, when subtle lighting with locally made lanterns and candles can turn even a mediocre spot into a romantic getaway. Not so Royal Chundu. It looked great during the day and simply gorgeous at night. A lasting impression was the complete absence of distracting or otherwise bothering sounds. I heard the water – and the birds. And nothing else. Just the way it should be.  

Our first stop at Royal Chundu was at River Lodge which has the most extraordinarily beautiful view over a broad stretch of the Zambezi with Zimbabwe on the other side. The Zambezi may have been at a low flow stage then (early December) but it was still one heck of a river, with a massive expanse of water in front of the lodge. Following our arrival briefing (which included some lovely iced tea and a much appreciated shoulder massage) we set off by boat to Royal Chundu Island Lodge. 

With just four elegant – air-conditioned – rooms tucked into a dense stretch of riverine forest, Royal Chundu Island Lodge is a veritable escape from reality. It felt like there was nobody else around and that happened to be the case on the day. We were in that rarest of rare places, our own island paradise. Travel dreams do come true.  

A short 10-minute walk took us to a lively picnic spot overlooking a set of rapids in the Zambezi. Just for the two of us the camp had set up what amounted to an adult playground. A picnic table with a couple of hammocks, a covered outdoor grilling and serving area with a well-stocked bar, a pizza oven and a large rug with soft, comfortable cushions. The perfect spot to enjoy a short siesta, the white noise of the Zambezi creating a near irresistible somnolescent effect. 

Irresistible also describes the tantalizing array of items for lunch. Chicken pizza, vegetable pizza, freshly grilled Zambezi caught bream. Fillet of beef and grilled chicken. A mixed bean and chickpea salad with carrots, cucumber, sautéed onion, grapes, mango and nuts. We gave it our best shot.

Royal Chundu village visit 

There are village visits and there are village visits. The not-so-great ones make you feel like an interloper, an alien checking out a strange new world. The good ones put you at ease right away, usually because of an exceptionally good local guide. We had just such a person show us around – Edith Mushekwa. By dint of her personality and leadership role in the village, Edith made the visit fun and we quickly realized that this village had taken organic gardening to the next level. Their cooperative organic garden, for example, utilizes cow dung, ashes and leaves for soil preparation. No fertilizer or chemicals whatsoever. Crop rotation enables them to maintain soil health and avoid the buildup of pests and diseases associated with specific types of plants.  

During our casual stroll through the village, we had a fascinating introduction into the medicinal and commercial use of local trees, such as using the seeds of the mokete tree for oil. The hardwood of the same tree is also used for carving. The village produces a natural dye from the bark of the brown ivory tree. Many of the villagers carve items from redundant pieces of Zimbabwean teak.

On the boat ride back from the village we did a little birding and we we got lucky with several good birds including African skimmer, lesser jacana, pygmy geese, comb duck, African fish eagle, rock pratincole and a close-up display of a black egret ‘tenting’ its wings, a hunting technique.  

Our day – or at least the daylight portion of it – ended as peacefully as it had started,  drifting along the current of the Zambezi while being pushed by a cool breeze. It was cloudy so ‘sundowner cruise’ may not have been the best description. What it lacked in photo appeal it more than compensated with peace and quiet with not so much as another boat or even the sound of a boat anywhere. By 7 pm we were back at the jetty, ready to resume the eating safari. 

A traditional dinner 

The chef in charge of the culinary team preparing our traditional tasting menu was Chef Peter and he and his team absolutely bowled us over with the sensational range of flavors, textures, colors and aromas associated with the extensive traditional tasting menu. Relais and Chateaux properties like Royal Chundu are known for their high-quality restaurants and this meal was certainly in the ‘one-of-a-kind’ category. 

Right off the bat? A delicate veloute of Kabulangeti beans. The word means ‘small piece of blanket’ and the comfort food connection is not hard to guess. These small brownish beans tasted somewhat like black beans. Delicious. 

The second dish was dumplings with a dried fish filling; for the vegetarian in the party the chef had prepared a spinach wrap with mixed vegetable stuffing. Everything prepared from scratch and everything sourced locally. 

I skipped the meat and fish offerings but even the most ardent steak lover might have taken a second look at the array of vegetarian options:

  • Maize nshima (local version of polenta)
  • Millet nshima
  • Okra with sweet potato leaves
  • Aubergine impwa (‘egg’)
  • Spinach and ground nut melange 
  • Small local beans
  • Masembe pudding, the local take on sago pudding   

We didn’t finish everything but went to bed happy in the knowledge that none of the buffet items would go to waste.

Breakfast overlooking the Zambezi 

Our culinary exploration at Royal Chundu didn’t end with dinner. We jumped right back into it the following morning, starting with an excellent decaf Americano, with a vanilla muffin or milk scone with strawberry preserve on the side. Your choice. Not to forget the locally-made peanut butter and orange marmalade with freshly made toast. Just like at dinner, all the fresh vegetables and herbs used in the preparation of the meal were supplied by neighboring villages or regional farms. 

We really didn’t know where to start – or end – with so many choices: 

  • A fresh fruit platter with delectable watermelon, pineapple and mango 
  • Choice of two types of creamy traditional porridge or oats, served with wild honey & toasted ground nuts
  • French toast or flapjacks
  • A traditional breakfast with eggs, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms 
  • Eggs Benedict 
  • Eggs Florentine
  • A 3 egg omelette

A true community-run lodge

During an all too short site inspection at Royal Chundu River Lodge, general manager Aggie Banda filled us in on the remarkable manner in which the lodge – literally from day one when it opened in 2010 – has been community-run. Practically the entire Royal Chundu team are Zambians, including the managers. And most of the team members live in two nearby villages – Malambo and Muluka. Royal Chundu is a community-run lodge in the full sense of the word. The lodge provides training to the community, it sources its food from Zambia (mostly supplied by local fishermen and village gardens) and it supports the village gardeners through a Seed Project.   

To the extent possible, Royal Chundu looks to its own sphere for suppliers – such as seamstress work for their chitenge uniforms, cushion covers, doormats and dish covers; woodwork for their wooden doorbells; and artwork on the walls. The Royal Chundu staff have created spin-off businesses from the lodge, such as transfer services for guests as well as courier services delivering firewood and fertilizer.

Zambia in 2025 and 2026

Our short visit to Royal Chundu, which is of course on the Zambia side of the Zambezi River, reminded us that we may have been neglecting Zambia – as a safari destination – over the last few years.  

There are safari destinations which attract hundreds of thousands of visitors annually like Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. And then there’s Zambia in central Southern Africa which attracts a relative handful, by comparison. 

Zambia is a large Southern Africa country (about the size of Texas) with every bit as much diversity as Kenya or South Africa. Which says a lot. It offers a multitude of activities, scenic highlights, wildlife viewing opportunities and cultural interaction. With several new and exciting safari options in the offing for the 2025 and 2026 seasons, we will definitely be paying closer attention to Zambia. So if you ask us for a Botswana itinerary suggestion you’ll get it, but you may get a Zambia one as well! 

Our Fish Eagle Safaris team have visited Zambia regularly over the years, and we’re ready to answer any questions you may have and to suggest a couple of Zambia safari itineraries. Perhaps in combination with one or more other areas in Southern or East Africa. Please leave a message at 713-467-5222 and someone will get back to you right away, or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

Some photos courtesy Royal Chundu

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Take Yourself On Safari

7th April 2024

Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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When to go on safari

4th May 2023

When to go on safari

Just like with so many other things, inflationary trends have been affecting the safari space for several years now and we are anticipating increases of between 10% to as much as 18% for 2024, compared with the prices in effect for this year. Of course the best way to avoid any increases is to travel before the higher prices come into effect.  

Short of that, there are two main drivers of safari prices which can help you in the quest for an affordable yet high-quality African safari.  The two factors are place and season. Every safari destination in Africa has one or two prime locations and a handful of properties which command top dollar rates, particularly in the high demand season from about June through October. At that time of the year – in the prime safari areas – it is simply a matter of supply and demand and with as few rooms as they have available, prices can and do reach eye-watering levels.  

However, if you start looking for a trip at a different time and in a different place, the picture changes dramatically. You can go on safari in countries like Zimbabwe and Zambia at the peak of their high season and enjoy a fantastic trip which will be half the cost of a comparable trip in a country with more name recognition or a more established reputation. Likewise, the difference between high season and shoulder season pricing can be significant, with often only minor differences in the experience.  

The best prices are to be found for travel in the low demand season. Off-season travel in Africa can be immensely satisfying for visitors who can handle some heat and high humidity, and perhaps a thunderstorm or two. A little bit of discomfort is more than offset by the abundance of baby animals, the birds in breeding plumage, the lush, green surroundings, stunning sunsets and sunrises and by not having so many other people around.  

Here are our top recommendations for an African safari which will tick all the boxes: lots of animals, plenty of diversity, excellent guiding – at an affordable price.

SOUTH AFRICA AND NAMIBIA

South Africa is a veritable ‘world in one country’ with diversity that is rivaled only by Kenya. It has several excellent wildlife areas, most of which are malaria-free including the Eastern Cape, Waterberg and Madikwe. South Africa’s greater Kruger Park area has some of Africa’s best all-round safari camps in areas where the ‘Big Five’ mammals are seen practically every day of the year, week in and week out.  

Namibia leans more in the direction of a ‘desert and dune’ experience but the wildlife viewing in places such as Etosha in the north, the Waterberg Plateau, Damaraland and even on the edge of the Skeleton Coast such as along the Hoanib River, can be excellent. Namibia also has remarkable cultural diversity and a strong conservation ethos.

What is it that combines these two countries in my list of attractive safari propositions for the near future? The value of the South African Rand, of course. Hovering consistently around ZAR 18 to the US dollar and not likely to strengthen rapidly any time soon, the shrinking Rand creates excellent safari deals for dollar-wielding travelers. Not only in South Africa itself but also in neighboring Namibia whose currency – the Namibia dollar – is pegged at the same value as the South African Rand. 

SOUTH AFRICA TRIP IDEAS

There are a myriad of trip combinations which can be anchored by South Africa. It’s always a good idea to start your South Africa trip with a few days in Cape Town, South Africa’s ‘mother city.’ Enjoy the local sights, two of which rank in Africa’s most celebrated natural wonders – Table Bay and Table Mountain. A little bit adventurous? Try the Platteklip hike up to the summit of Table Mountain and take the cable car trip down. Be sure to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens (it’s a jewel), check out the endemic African penguins (Africa’s only penguin species) at Boulders Beach and take the funicular to the viewpoint at the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.  

From Cape Town, fly to the greater Kruger Park area and spend a week on safari in a lodge of your choice – to fit your budget – in a private game reserve adjacent to the park. There are many options to choose from in areas like the Sabi Sand Reserve, Timbavati, Manyeleti and Thornybush. All of them are ‘Big Five’ reserves where you are likely to see elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and buffaloes over the course of a few days. And a lot else besides, of course.  Advantages of traveling here rather than some other destinations? Mostly the ability to drive off-road which can get you closer to some of the smaller cats and other special sightings, and also the ability to drive after the sun is down for a chance to see some of the nocturnal animals.

Instead of, or in addition to the Kruger Park area, you may wish to include some time in South Africa’s Eastern Cape region which also has abundant wildlife. Private game reserves like Kwandwe, Kariega and Shamwari are located in extraordinarily beautiful landscapes, filled with green rolling hills and valleys and patches of riverine forest, scrub and woodland. A bonus? This area is malaria-free so is ideal for families with young children or anyone wanting to avoid having to use malaria prophylaxis.  

Two other attractive safari destinations in South Africa include the Waterberg and Madikwe regions, both of which are also in malaria-free areas. Of course, it is easy to travel from South Africa into any of the neighboring countries including Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia.

NAMIBIA TRIP IDEAS

Namibia is very much a ‘desert and dune’ destination, with the area around Sossusvlei with its giant red sand dunes being considered Namibia’s signature sight. So by all means spend a couple of days there and marvel at the scene of a white gravel plain with apricot dunes in the background, an azure blue sky and stark, semi-fossilized trees providing a focal point for the quintessential Namibia photograph. 

Of course from there you’d want to go on safari and find some of the country’s signature animals such as the gemsbok, black-faced impala, springbok and Damara dik-dik. Together with elephants, black and white rhino, and the big cats. All of these and more can be found in the greater Etosha National Park area to the north and elsewhere. A little beyond the regular safari circuit lies the Skeleton Coast National Park which we regularly include on Namibia trips, either by having guests spend a few days at a camp on the edge of the park or right inside it, or by doing a fly-in safari which whisks guests from one enigmatic spot to another. There’s a lot more to Namibia including the quaint town of Swakopmund and nearby Walvis Bay harbor with bird-laden estuaries and worthwhile marine excursions, and remote safari camps in Damaraland and the Kaokoveld. This is where guests can embark on day safaris in search of the elusive black rhino, a successful day culminating with the guests approaching the black rhinos on foot from a safe and respectful distance. There will be a small team from Namibia’s successful ‘Save the Rhino’ Trust on hand to provide background information on the success of the program, and the challenges ahead. 

ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

Zimbabwe and Zambia are two of Africa’s most underrated safari destinations. Prospects for Zimbabwe’s tourism sector have taken a much more positive turn now that the country is fully in the post-Mugabe era. Despite having a superior safari product, the Zimbabwe properties are not able to command the stellar pricing of some of its competitors – notably Botswana – Which creates opportunities for visitors to enjoy a fantastic safari – very much comparable to that of Botswana – at literally 50% of the Botswana cost, in the high season months from June through October.

Zambia is perhaps just not as well known as it should be and its safari season is quite short with many of its camps in the South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue regions being closed for the rainy season from November through the end of March. None of this affects the safari experience in Zambia. In fact, a Zambia safari delivers a wonderful all-round experience with none of the congestion of some of its most popular rivals and at a much lower price point. Zambia has even shelved its visa entry fee of $50 per person.

For Zimbabwe, our associates Imvelo Safaris have some  dazzling specials for the low-demand season, with great savings for families traveling with children and single travelers. These include a stay 7/pay 5 offer from November 2023 through March 2024 (except for the holidays) and a free private guide and vehicle for groups of four or more. There’s more: children under 18 will be accommodated free of charge (park fees and transfers only) on any stay of three nights or longer, from January 1 through the end of April 2024. Victoria Falls, Hwange, Lake Kariba, Mana Pools: a Zimbabwe trip is filled with excitement, big game, lots of optional activities such as boating, fishing, and foot safaris – for less than you might anticipate.  

Most Zimbabwe itineraries include two or more of the areas below, in no specific sequence:  

Victoria Falls – usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls & perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi. The Falls are an awesome sight in April and May particularly – when the Zambezi is in flood stage – but they are always worth seeing from the Zimbabwe side (main falls).  

Hwange National park – This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area. We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two. In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of elephants, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs. So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana, or for that matter Kenya. Rhinos have been re-introduced to the Hwange area which now (again, as in the past) makes the park a ‘Big Five’ destination. There’s more. Hwange has a couple of very special antelopes not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic sable antelope and the equally interesting roan antelope. Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals. The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes and dozens of other families of birds. Hwange is an ideal park for walking safaris, mostly because of the proficiency of the Zimbabwe professional guides, who are at their best on foot, rifle in hand. 

Mana Pools – Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game and African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too. Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis due to the relatively high cost of flying there. However we do offer some trips which include flying at no or reduced cost. There is a minimum stay requirement. Mana Pools has a well-deserved reputation for being an ideal park for foot safaris.  

Lake Kariba – and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake. A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba is a superb addition to almost any Zimbabwe trip. Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible. I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake where elephants and other animals can often be seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.  

The Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe. This region of Zimbabwe is another one where rhinos can be observed in the wild. Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of SE Utah. It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes. This area is spectacular, particularly at sunset. It is easy to move on to Hwange National Park from the Matobos by road.

For Zambia, I can think of no better trip than a 10-night Zambia exploration with Classic Zambia, priced at about $6,500 per person sharing in May and June, increasing to just over $8,000 per person sharing for the high season months from July through October. This would be a fantastic safari combining two of Africa’s finest and wildest wildlife areas, Kafue and the Lower Zambezi. Please call or email for detailed information about these and other safari options.  

Zambia is a massive country and it should come as no surprise that it has several excellent safari areas, notably the South Luangwa National Park, the Lower Zambezi National Park and the Kafue region. None of these are heavily visited and the Kafue – which is much bigger than South Africa’s vast Kruger National park – attracts about one tenth of the number of visitors of the Kruger. 

The South Luangwa National Park is known for its walking safaris and the chance to see a wide variety of animals such as elephants, lions and leopards. On a recent trip there we witnessed a crocodile trying to rob a hyena of its prey. It was a spellbinding scene observed by just us. No other vehicle showed up over the entire 30 minutes or so we spent at the sighting.  

The Lower Zambezi National Park is another popular destination, offering river safaris on the Zambezi and the opportunity to see hippos, crocodiles and abundant birdlife. For the adventurous traveler, I would recommend a canoe safari in one of the backwaters off the main river. It can be an adrenaline-inducing experience gliding by several hippos, your natural apprehension being somewhat assuaged by the fact that you have an experienced guide in control of the canoe.  

The Kafue National Park is the largest park in Zambia and is home to a wide range of wildlife, including elephants, lions and cheetahs. Several small, remote camps in the Kafue are ideal for a ‘back to basics’ experience where what matters most is what happens outside the tent. It is all about the wilderness experience, about observing the wildlife in their most natural setting, and being able to do it essentially with just your guide and the few other people in the vehicle with you.  

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Where to go on safari in 2022-23

19th November 2021

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

As the Covid pandemic retreats worldwide, thoughts turn to resuming life the way we once did, filled with family, friends, togetherness – and travel.

Picking up where we left off around March of 2020, we can once again dream and plan on visiting foreign shores.

As and when travelers resume planning trips to Africa, they soon find out that there are dozens of safari destinations and hundreds of combinations of camps and activities.

Fortunately, there are just a few golden rules for a happy and successful safari trip:

* Spend more time in fewer locations. Now more than ever it makes sense to take a single country trip with fewer, longer stops.

* If you have a good guide you can have a great safari almost anywhere, anytime.

* Smaller is always better than bigger when it comes to group size and camp size.

* You almost always get what you pay for; in the case of a good safari it is prime location, small camp, good guiding, privacy (private concessions, private guide & vehicle), all-inclusive pricing and an all-round quality experience with no unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few destinations we visited recently and which we think hold great appeal for the next couple of years, for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, all of these destinations are suitable for a single country trip, reducing the number of potential Covid tests and lessening the burden of entry formalities and hassles associated with border crossings.

ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe’s three prime game-viewing areas namely Hwange, Matusadona (Lake Kariba) and Mana Pools make a truly unbeatable safari combination with as much diversity as just about any other safari destination. You’d have to fly between some areas but even with the inclusion of flights, 10 days split between these three areas in the high season is still going to be 50% less than comparable camps in Botswana.

Start your trip in Victoria Falls for the views and an extraordinary range of adventure activities and consider including the Matobos for rhino viewing, terrific scenery, culture and history.

Zimbabwe is a classic African safari destination with excellent game-viewing, headlined by the presence of thousands of elephants in all of the major national parks, most notably Hwange which has in excess of 30,000 elephants. Add to that buffaloes, eland, plenty of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, special antelopes such as roan and sable and a good variety of cats and you end up with a first-class game-viewing destination.

KENYA
There is simply nowhere better for a first safari than Kenya. Why? Diversity of habitats, abundance of animals and wide-open plains making game-viewing relatively easy and rewarding. Add to that a well-functioning tourism infrastructure, super-friendly people and a wide range of accommodations catering to every taste and budget. Kenya is easy to get to from the USA via Europe or the Middle East, or on a non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, currently operating several days per week.

I would be very hard pressed to think of a 10-day safari that offers nearly as much to see and experience as a combination of Amboseli (no place better for elephants & views of Kilimanjaro); Lewa or Samburu (spectacular endemics such as Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra & beautiful ‘out of Africa’ views) and the Masai Mara, for simply the best game-viewing in Africa. This can be done on a fly-in basis with any start date. Shoulder months such as June and November offer excellent value for money.

WESTERN TANZANIA AND THE SERENGETI
Prefer to be away from the ‘maddening crowds’ and able to handle some long flights and the occasional bit of discomfort in pursuit of authenticity and excitement? If so, then Tanzania and specifically a combination of the Serengeti, Tarangire and Katavi National Park in far western Tanzania would be ideal.

What to expect? Mostly small, remote camps with few other people, excellent game-viewing and superb birding plus simply the best chimpanzee treks in all of Africa, at Mahale Mountains National Park. The addition of a few days in Katavi National Park elevates this from a great trip to an outstanding one. This remote park is an unvarnished slice of African wilderness where the dry season pushes its large hippo population to the limits of endurance. Big herds of buffalo, elephant, plenty of predators – Katavi has it all and there’s few other people around.

The ideal itinerary for this combination would have 4 or 5 nights in the Serengeti (which can be split between the northern and central region), 3 nights at Greystoke Camp in the Mahale Mountains National Park and 4 nights at Chada Katavi. Stay a little longer by adding a couple of nights at Ngorongoro Crater at the start of the trip.

SOUTHERN TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR
For another remote and very private Africa experience, I would recommend a combination of 4 nights in the Ruaha National Park in south-central Tanzania (Nomad’s Kigelia, Asilia’s Kwihala or Jabala Ridge or Mwagusi Camp) plus one or two camps in the Selous Game Reserve (Sand Rivers – sublime) and perhaps Beho-Beho (on our Groundhog Day list). And then add a few days in Zanzibar at the end, a combination of Stone Town and one of the beach resorts. If pressed for time, a couple of nights in Stone Town would suffice as long as you include a half day walking tour of Stone Town (must do) and possibly an outing to Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Red Colobus monkeys and the Mangroves. The Spice Tour is a bit touristy but highly entertaining and educational.

ZAMBIA
Zambia is huge and with three premier safari areas – South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue – it has an amazing diversity of scenery, habitat and activities. Walking is central to the experience everywhere yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. They do the walking excursions mostly early in the morning as it can and does get hot later in the day.

Some of the best areas in Zambia like the Kafue and Lower Zambezi are considerably better later in the dry season, so my recommendation would be to travel there from July through October. It does get hot and dry then but definitely worth it for the concentration of elephants and other wildlife, close to water.

In terms of game-viewing, the highlights in the Kafue National Park include lions and leopards. The latter are well represented at Musekese Camp (which we highly recommend visiting) where there are 17 leopards in the area just around the camp. On a visit earlier this year, we saw two females interacting which is highly unusual. All the leopards have individual designations and their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied.

The South Luangwa National Park is also known for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are multiple thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost never quite out of hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. We are partial to the Shenton camps (Kaingo and Mwamba) as well as the Bushcamp Company and Time & Tide properties. They all offer a slightly different experience – depending on location and season – but all are excellent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park offers a distinctively different experience and setting, with most of the camps located on the banks of the Zambezi. So in addition to game drives (day and early evening), you can also do boating and canoeing, as well as walking. From August onwards the seeds of the Winterthorn trees start to drop, which attracts dozens of elephants day and night. The pods are like candy to them. This is best seen and experienced at the camps west of Jeki Airstrip, being Old Mondoro, the Tusk & Mane camps and Anabezi.

The area around Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi is impossibly atmospheric and there is just nowhere else like it. Tusk and Mane’s Kutali and Chula camps are rustic with bucket showers (having proper flush toilets) but the experience is as ‘classic safari’ as it gets.

The canoeing experience on the Lower Zambezi is amazing as well. We saw about 50 hippos on a three hour canoe outing and elephants crossed the channel in front of us and behind us. All in all an action packed outing with a few jolts of adrenaline here and there, yet I felt quite safe due to the expert guiding. Boating on the Kafue and the Zambezi rivers adds yet another facet to the Zambia experience. The two rivers are so different yet I found both of them to be fascinating given the immense flow of water and the importance they have to the wildlife areas in Zambia.

At any time of the year, the vehicle density in Zambia – except in the Mfuwe area – is lower than anywhere else. The camps are really small, mostly with just 4 or 5 tents. In areas like the Lower Zambezi and Kafue the experience is like being on your own private African safari.

BOTSWANA
I have not changed my mind about Botswana being among the very best safari destinations of any. On a recent trip which included Chief’s Island in the Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, we again experienced Botswana’s abundance of wildlife, beautiful scenery and friendly people.

On our very first game drive out of Chief’s Camp we saw African painted dogs, lions and cheetahs. That set the pace for the entire trip, with buffaloes on our arrival at Eagle Island Lodge, a couple of baby leopards there, interaction between two sets of male lions at Xigera Safari Camp and ending with a mother and baby pair of white rhinos at Dinaka, in the Kalahari. And of course all the plains game including plentiful giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, lechwes, gemsbok, springbok, tsessebe, steenbok, a myriad of hippos and more.

Botswana has gotten quite pricey – especially from June through the end of October (high season), but you don’t have to spend weeks here to have a fantastic time on safari. Seven to nine nights total on safari is more than adequate. For a longer trip, add on a few days in Zimbabwe or South Africa. To keep the price manageable, consider going in the low-demand season, from November through the end of March. If you spend a bit more time in fewer areas (to give yourself a little more time and opportunity to find some of the elusive species like leopards and cheetahs), it can be every bit as good as the high season.

Some visitors – notably photographers – consider the low season to be the best time of the year, bar none. Why? There are lots of baby animals around (notably hundreds of baby impalas) which stimulates predator activity. Just about every day, you will experience gorgeous sunrises and sunsets due to the presence of some clouds. There are many bird species in breeding plumage, and lots of summer migrant bird species present, including the strident woodland kingfisher, several species of shrikes, bee-eaters, orioles, wading birds, birds of prey and many more. The animals are generally in good condition at this time of the year due to abundant food sources, and the green vegetation creates beautiful backdrops. The bottom line? Travel to Botswana in the low demand season and enjoy superb game-viewing and exceptionally good photography conditions at much lower prices, with far fewer other visitors around. Call or email us for information about several superb low-demand season trip itineraries and cost estimates.

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Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

By late July we found ourselves at Chindeni, a small Bushcamp Company property

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