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South Africa

Lyndon Visits South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

19th April 2025

Lyndon Visits South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

South Africa’s Eastern Cape game reserves are located in a spectacularly beautiful, malaria-free area just off the Indian Ocean coast, about 500 miles due east of Cape Town. The area is easily accessible by air from Johannesburg (1 hr 45 minutes) and Cape Town (1 hr 15 minutes). Its beautiful green rolling hills, temperate weather and abundance of wildlife with all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals being present (lions, leopards, buffalo, elephant and rhino) make it an attractive destination for visitors wanting to add a safari to a Cape Town stay. It is also a great option for families who don’t want to take their children into a malaria area, or who may simply want to explore a different safari area, having previously visited the Sabi Sands or Timbavati or another area in South Africa.  

Jason and Bert have visited the Eastern Cape reserves a total of four times between them; Lyndon recently made it there for the first time; here is his personal account:  

“I spent four nights in two different camps in South Africa’s Eastern Cape in the middle of March with my family. It was my first time in the area and I must say I really enjoyed it. The first stop was Lalibela Treetops. We flew in the morning from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth (now Gqeberha) and had a road transfer of about an hour to the camp. 

What were some of the highlights? I can start with the staff led by the manager Wynton Fortune – they were fantastic. Likewise our guide Desigan Naidoo – he goes by Des – was very engaging and skilled. The camp itself felt intimate and the rooms were canvas with a thatch roof. Plenty of room with all the necessities. Meals here are communal which is always fun.

The area where you do your game drives is very interesting. The Eastern Cape is a Big Five destination but there’s no malaria which is great for families with kids, or just anybody who’s not keen on taking the malaria pills. The landscape is filled with rolling green hills with ample bushes and trees as well as open savannah. It very much reminded me of parts of Kenya, such as  Lewa and the Masai Mara. Lalibela has abundant plains game including blesbok, impala, zebra, wildebeest, nyala, amongst others. Also plenty of giraffes, good numbers of rhino and lion. We saw a herd of about 300 buffalo and on our last day we got a bit lucky and spent some time viewing a cheetah. There are probably about 50 elephants on the property as well.

Lalibela is very interesting because it is essentially a conservation program being run as a safari destination. Their mission is to expand their acreage, rehabilitate the land, and then let the animals do their thing. It can be strange to be watching a pond full of hippos and then hearing a truck speed by on a nearby public road. I gave this some thought and although some people might find it distracting, I think it is commendable. Just as in Kenya where you’re likely to see the Maasai with their cattle grazing inside a conservancy or alongside a national park. Civilization is not something that can be easily contained but at the same time these wildlife sanctuaries can expand and thrive alongside human populated areas, creating more room for animals to inhabit. With the wildlife essentially repopulating the areas where they naturally occurred before humans displaced them.

From Lalibela, we transferred by road to our next game reserve –  Kariega Ukhozi – and there were some distinct differences. Where Lalibela had rolling hills, Kariega had steep and mountainous ones. The relatively sparse bush and forest was replaced with dense, impassable sections. The open plains remained and just like at Lalibela, the wildlife were abundant. We had a great time with our guide Megan who really knew the area and the animals in it. On our first day we were able to see a mother rhino and her baby. The mother, Thandi, had survived a horrible poaching attempt some years ago. She still bore the scars of the incident but it hadn’t stopped her from giving birth to at least 6 (or maybe 7) calves. Some of whom have gone on to birth or father their own calves. That is the type of impact a place like Kariega can have. 

Just like Lalibela, Kariega was formerly farmland, devoid of many of the large mammals which have been thriving here for several decades now. At one point we were able to easily see at least eight different large mammal species from our game drive vehicle which is always a good sign. We saw plenty of kudu, nyala, blesbok, wildebeest, zebra, rhino, and probably more giraffes than I have seen anywhere else ever. We got to see lions a few times and the area, tucked between the Kariega and Bushman’s rivers, is possibly even more striking than Lalibela. 

Your guide joins you for breakfast and every third night they do a traditional meal in the boma where your guide joins you again. The food was excellent and our rooms were very spacious and included a plunge pool amongst other niceties. Overall both camps and areas impressed me.”

Lyndon and Jason can both assist with more information and trip ideas for Southern Africa, incorporating a few days in the delightful Eastern Cape reserves. Email lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message at 1-800-513-5222 and one of us will be sure to call you back. 

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Babylonstoren, A Cape Winelands Retreat

26th November 2024

Babylonstoren, A Cape Winelands Retreat

Babylonstoren is an old Cape Dutch farm, set at the foot of Simonsberg in the Franschhoek wine valley. It is also one of the most beautiful and welcoming hotels we have ever been to, with sublime architecture, wonderfully cozy cottages, inspiring gardens, food which is simply on another level compared with practically anything else and all-round hospitality and guest service that would put it high on a list of the best of the best.

We think Babylonstoren is the perfect spot for our guests to experience local South African culture through food and wine offerings and explorations. There is so much to do and see and experience with bike rides through the property, guided walks, wine-tasting, paddling canoes, enjoying a spa treatment, relaxing on the tiny secluded ‘beach,’ going on a mountain drive, immersing yourself in an interactive farm experience, and interacting with the resident tortoises, donkeys, chickens, turkey, ducks and geese. You may want to try your hand at baking some bread and definitely make some time to browse the farm store with its selection of mouthwatering edibles, wines, books, pantry items and more.

Babylonstoren was firing on all cylinders right from the word go. Arriving after a monster drive from Samara, there was a friendly and helpful staff member ready to assist with our luggage (a lot of it!) which was sent straight to the room. One of the assistant managers Jerry – who helped with the minimal sign-in formalities – was delightful and quickly dispelled my road fatigue with his bubbly personality and disarming smile. I think Kathy and I realized almost right away that a 2-night stay was going to be way too short.

En route to our room – a 1-bedroom garden cottage – we peeked into the small guest lounge – part of the reception area – where guests can come 24/7 for a courtesy drink and some snacks. It is well used, judging by the number of people we saw there over the next couple of days. Babylonstoren is a true boutique hotel, sleeping just 80 persons maximum.

Garden Cottage room at Babylonstoren

Our garden cottage room had everything we needed and some things which we didn’t – but loved anyway. Two coffee stations, freshly pressed juice from seasonal fruit and vegetables. Bottled water – a proprietary Babylonstoren blend. A selection of fresh fruit straight from the garden including delicious tangerines. Two bottles of Babylonstoren house wines. A red Babel blend (Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Pinotage and Malbec) and their Candide white blend (Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sémillon and Roussanne). A selection of Babylonstoren candies. A small library with about 100 books ranging from Pakenham’s definitive work on the subject – ‘The Boer War’ – to the collected works of Eugene Marais in Afrikaans. Including his incisive study of chacma baboons in the Waterberg range of South Africa, previously published as ‘The soul of the ape.’

The room also had a flatscreen TV (which remained dark) in a small lounge area with a 2-seater loveseat, a small white table with two chairs and a well functioning fireplace which did not fill the room with any smoke. We gave it our best shot, keeping the fireplace lit until well into the night. Make that both nights.

In the separate bathroom there’s a huge tub with as much steaming hot water as your heart could possibly desire. Plus a separate shower and toilet – all in the same decently sized but not excessively large bathroom.

We’re not done yet. Predictably, our Babylonstoren room had what turned out to be a heavenly bed. A king size four-poster with goose down cushions and a mattress which we would have dragged with us, given half a chance. It was rainy and cold outside (winter in the Cape!) but it mattered not one whit. We were snug and happy.

Rounding out the room fittings: a small fridge stocked with still and sparkling water. Also milk, an apple spinach juice and blood orange juice. We never did use the Wellington boots (also in the room) but perhaps we should have.

And yes we did actually make it out of the room on a few occasions. Despite some all too predictable winter weather, in the way of the Cape Doctor (a stiff southeasterly wind), intermittent showers with occasional heavy rain and temperatures which probably never exceeded 50F.

Dining at Babylonstoren

Nothing would have stopped us from enjoying the meals at Babel restaurant. The breakfasts were simply the best we’ve ever had, anywhere. A stunningly presented spread of local produce – a simply overwhelming array of fruits, breads, cheeses, nuts and more. The eggs were perfectly done – always a sign of a good kitchen – and their boerewors sausage had just the right amount of coriander seasoning. The sparkling server had some great suggestions; I think the customer service alone is reason enough to want to return to Babylonstoren.

The two dinners were both highlights of our South Africa stay. One evening we had steak – a beef filet on the bone – which was done perfectly medium rare, with roasted herbed potatoes cooked just the way we like them. The accompanying salad complemented the meal perfectly and it was also delicious, with most of the ingredients grown and harvested on the farm itself. The other dinner was a perfectly grilled filet of fish served with fresh seasonal vegetables. To finish? A citrus-infused meringue and a rose geranium-and-coconut panna cotta.

Hopefully on a future visit we’ll get to do some of the olive oil and wine tasting, the garden tours, the mountain drive, bike around the property and maybe spend a bit of time by the pool.  The gardens are clearly spectacular and deserving of at least an hour or two of exploration.  It will be high on our ‘to do’ list for the next time.

A hint: be sure to book any spa treatments well in advance. They’re popular and were fully booked during our stay.

In our opinion, Babylonstoren is a great addition to a Cape Town stay, particularly for visitors who have a special interest in food and wine and culture in general. Call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to learn more and to start making your plans to visit the Cape Winelands.

Some images courtesy Babylonstoren

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Giraffes in the Desert: Samara Karoo Reserve, South Africa

26th November 2024

Giraffes in the Desert: Samara Karoo Reserve, South Africa

Spending a couple of days at Samara Karoo Reserve in the heart of South Africa’s Great Karoo semi-desert is as close as one could ever get to being in a Pierneef landscape. Pierneef, arguably South Africa’s greatest and most celebrated painter, is famous for his hugely evocative landscape paintings, several of which depict  Karoo-like scenes in a highly stylized, impressionistic manner.

Drive around Samara reserve for a day or two and more than just one of the stunning Camdeboo mountain landscapes will surely remain etched in your mind, as impactful as any Pierneef. Each view, each sunset a masterpiece for the ages. 

Like so many South Africans by birth, my impressions of the Karoo have always been woefully short of the reality of this splendid area. Despite more than 30 years of driving through it, crossing it by train and flying over it, I could never see it for what it was. All I saw was open, featureless plains with a few drab koppies (inselbergs) in the distance. Mile after mile of nothing much, just trains sweeping by at night and glimpses of Karoo towns, deserted by 5 pm. Mentally, I had reduced the Karoo to a seemingly never-ending drive through a vast nothingness. A space that simply had to be endured, to get to where you really wanted to be. Which was invariably Cape Town to the south, or home, in the other direction. 

It was only when I saw the Great Karoo again this last summer with older but wiser eyes, stripped of many of the prejudices of my younger years, that I could appreciate it for what it really is. An achingly beautiful and infinitely charming landscape. A living, breathing semidesert area which was once – and now is again at least in part – home to an astonishing variety of large mammals. 

At one time the Great Karoo was synonymous with vast migrating herds of springbok, sometimes numbering into the hundreds of thousands, taking days to pass through an area. Historically, the wildlife of the Karoo included black-maned Cape lions, rhinos, cheetahs, the now extinct quagga (a species of zebra) and several unique mammals such as the Cape fox, eland, caracal, suricate and aardvark. Decades of non-sustainable agricultural practices – primarily overgrazing – resulted in erosion and even desertification, negatively impacting biodiversity. In time, it resulted in many of the larger mammals disappearing. The last Karoo lions were seen around 200 years ago.

Enter Mark and Sarah Tompkins – and other conservation-minded individuals and families – who are now turning back the clock on agricultural exploitation with an ambitious program of land rehabilitation and wildlife reintroduction. Since first acquiring the farm Apieskloof in 1997, the Tompkins family have amassed enough land to establish a self-sustaining ecosystem which supports wildlife – all the way from the herds of antelopes that used to inhabit the area to the predators to keep the balance which helps maintain these fragile ecosystems. 

It is a tedious, painstaking process to eradicate alien, invasive plant species, to tear down internal fencing and to simply rest the land for a sufficiently long period of time. All while rehabilitating the most eroded, degraded areas, planting indigenous vegetation and slowly reintroducing indigenous animals. 

Getting Samara to what it is today started with a dream, involved years of hard work, unwavering dedication, substantial financial investment and the ongoing efforts of a team of people who are passionate about spreading the environmental message to everyone who set foot on the reserve. There were many rewilding milestones along the way: the first cheetahs in 130 years, the first elephants in 150 years, the first lions in 180 years. It is a remarkable conservation success story in an area which remains largely unknown even to South Africans, let alone international visitors.   

In search of cheetahs and more – activities at Samara

Kathy and I arrived at Samara in late August after a drive of about four hours from Sedgefield on South Africa’s Garden Route, our (US) summer base. As if on cue, just after we had negotiated a shallow drift crossing the small Milk River, just around the corner from the main lodge, a large tower of giraffes appeared among the trees on both sides of the road. Acting every bit like a welcoming committee, they slowly moved to the left and right, all while of course staring at us intently and without making a sound, in typical giraffe manner. Observing such a relaxed journey of giraffes so close to the main lodge – and clearly not fussed by the proximity of our vehicle – was a good omen.

With one exception – being the Samara cheetahs evading us – every game drive exceeded our expectations. On our very first game drive, there were more groups of giraffes, then some handsome waterbuck and – not far from the lodge – a group of four white rhinos. An adult female with a youngster and two young males. We got out of the vehicle and approached the rhinos on foot – carefully and quietly – with our guide Roelof and tracker Kevin. 

On every drive at Samara – we were only there for two nights – we saw a wealth of plains game including impressive numbers of eland (South Africa’s largest antelope), the striking gemsbok, red hartebeest, herds of springbok and warthog families running as if their lives depended on it. By morning’s end on day one, our growing mammal list topped 20 species with yellow mongoose, vervet monkey and chacma baboon added to it while driving through the thickets in the small valley adjoining the lodge. A high point was spotting a particularly large herd of eland which let us approach quite closely. This is uncharacteristic of eland which have the longest flight distance of any of the African antelope species. 

The following day, the plan was to go out in search of one or more of Samara’s healthy and growing number of cheetahs, several of which are collared for ongoing research projects. Which makes it relatively easy to find them, under normal circumstances. Most Samara guests who spend three nights or so in the area, do in fact get to approach the cheetahs on foot, observing them at ground level. A singular experience. The drive took us a very long distance to the southern open grassland area but despite our guides giving it their best, we did not catch a glimpse of them. It was a little disappointing as Samara prides itself on their ‘walking with cheetahs’ experience. Unfortunately weather conditions were unfavorable with a strong wind driving the cheetahs into a high hilly area which we could not reach on foot due to timing constraints. We plan on returning to Samara next summer so we’ll file this under ‘to be continued.’

On our last morning drive Roelof and Kevin took us all the way to the top of the high plateau area, a huge expanse of grass-covered savannah plains, sometimes referred to as the ‘Serengeti of the South.’ We reached it after an exciting and sometimes fairly steep but fascinating drive, with amazing views front, left and center. At around 1,500 meters above sea level (or as we would say in Texas – a mile high), the fresh mountain air was crisp and cool. Samara is beautiful but this particular area is uniquely beautiful, being perched high on a mountain saddle with 360 degree views, surrounded by purple mountains and massive valleys in seemingly every direction. Not surprisingly, we encountered several different species up there including Cape mountain zebra, mountain reedbuck, bat-eared fox and a couple sizable herds of black wildebeest in addition to lots of springbok and eland.

An unexpected bonus on the drive back down from the plateau was coming up on a fresh lion kill. And I mean fresh. Roelof and Kevin saw some fresh lion tracks crossing the path and got out of the vehicle to investigate. Not 30 seconds later, they were back into the vehicle, having spotted a male lion barely 10 meters off the track. Inching forward a little bit, we saw the lion looking in our direction, and through an opening in the bushes, there was a seemingly untouched but clearly dead eland bull. We had inadvertently interrupted the lion’s attempt to start feeding. I took a couple of photographs and we moved on; pleased to have seen one of the big cats in this environment but not wanting to insert ourselves into the aftermath of a kill.

Getting there

Samara is located in South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province, about 33 miles south-east of Graaff-Reinet, South Africa’s fourth oldest town, in the very heart of the Great Karoo. All along the drive up to Samara from the Garden Route coast, Kathy and I felt like we were in a misplaced movie set. Being residents of the flat and featureless Texas coastal plains, even the most mediocre of hills impress us but this drive was simply spectacular. It started with a bang, negotiating the stunningly beautiful Outeniqua Pass, not far out of the coastal town of George. Being stuck behind a slow-moving truck is not a hindrance or nuisance there. Quite the contrary. All the more time and opportunity to steal glances in every direction, even if you’re not supposed to, from behind the steering wheel.

Emerging from the pass we thought the landscape bonanza was at an end, but we were wrong. It went on and on literally all the way to Graaff-Reinet, and beyond, right up to and including, of course, Samara itself. One magical vista would fade away only for another to take its place.

The asphalt road was in excellent condition all the way from George and the traffic was light, to put it mildly. Inexplicably, certain stretches of the highway were conspicuously marked with large signs which read “High Accident Zone.” With so few other vehicles around, one has to assume this refers to single vehicle crashes. Very few Houstonians are likely to doze off in such spectacular surroundings but the rest of you – take it easy and stay alert.

I can’t speak to the condition or the visual attractions of the road from Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth), but it is the shortest and most direct way to get to Samara from a major airport. The distance of about 170 miles can be covered in roughly 2.5 to 3 hours. Port Elizabeth Airport (PLZ) can be reached by commercial flights from Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban. Of course, if you were to travel with Fish Eagle Safaris you would likely reach Samara on a pre-planned road transfer from Port Elizabeth Airport.

It’s also possible to drive to Samara from Cape Town, taking up to 8.5 hours along the scenic route 62, considered to be one of the top road trips in South Africa. It is advisable to make this a two-day trip – a journey which we are planning for the summer of 2025. From Samara it takes about 6.5 hours to drive to the Cape Winelands centers such as Stellenbosch or Franschoek along the fastest and most direct route, the N1.

There’s a private gravel airstrip at Samara and an asphalt airstrip in nearby Graaff-Reinet, so the area is reachable by private charter flight from anywhere in South Africa.

Understated elegance:  Accommodation, food & hospitality

General manager Marnus Ochse personally welcomed us at the front entrance of the main building at Samara’s Karoo Lodge, a beautifully reimagined Karoo farmhouse. Marnus’ presence and manner instill confidence and exude a sense that he and his team are on top of things. And so it was. Over the course of our two days my favorable first impressions were confirmed and exceeded. The accommodation certainly leaves nothing to be desired. When we were not busy exploring – which was most of the time – we were warmly and comfortably ensconced in the impressive room #7 at Karoo Lodge. Over the years we have seen and experienced dozens of deluxe lodges all over Africa and Samara’s Karoo Lodge does not have to take a back seat to any of them. To the contrary. By retaining the lodge’s quintessential Karoo character while embracing a modern approach to safari living, Samara’s owners have created something really special and unique. The expansive wraparound verandah abutting the main building is a good example of what makes Samara worth going out of your way for. On my next visit I am 100% going to schedule some time to simply enjoy the fresh, clean Karoo area right there. Taking my time over a cup of decaf Americano while my eyes wander over the craggy, mysterious landscapes in the far background.

Having been extensively renovated in 2023, Karoo Lodge now has 10 suites, eight Karoo Suites and two Karoo Family Suites, sleeping up to 24 guests total. Our Karoo Suite #7 is ideal for a couple, complete with romantic four-poster bed, a fireplace (yes we used it), air-conditioning, a large separate bath, plus indoor and outdoor showers. Hopefully next time we will have a bit of time to spend in the covered patio overlooking the dramatic mountain landscapes, binoculars ready to spot a few birds and maybe a black rhino coming to drink at the waterhole.

The main lodge – where we enjoyed our meals – was as welcoming and comfortable as it gets, with a pleasing blend of natural tones and fabrics creating a warm Karoo homestead setting. There’s certainly plenty of room and as much privacy as anyone could desire with two sitting rooms, a separate dining room, library, a farm-style kitchen, colorful plant-filled courtyard, wine cellar, a story room and of course the aforementioned verandah. Make yourself at home.

Kathy and I very much enjoyed the cooking at Samara. Probably a little too much. We have a penchant for Karoo lamb and there we were, finding ourselves smack in the middle of the Great Karoo in a place where lamb takes pride of place on the menu. So yes we tried their famous Karoo lamb burger and several other South African classics prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Breakfast – served in the crisp morning air outside on the verandah – was equally delicious and fun with a selection of fresh fruit, cold meats, yogurt and cheeses. Those being the precursor to an old-fashioned Karoo hot breakfast with eggs like you like them, lamb sausage (naturally), freshly grilled tomato and sauteed mushrooms. We also managed to squeeze in a pre-game drive afternoon tea-time snack, a superb baked cake.

To find out more about Samara and to learn how it can best be worked into a unique South African experience, email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222, any time.

Samara Karoo entrance/exterior photo and suite exterior photo courtesy Samara Karoo

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Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

21st June 2024

Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

For me the most fun part of our business is designing itineraries. That’s where our 50 plus years of African experience and our team’s regular inspection and educational visits come into play. Rarely do we include a property which we haven’t been to ourselves and never is how often we include a property where guests may be forced into a middle seat on safari. 

Over the years we have gotten better at customizing itineraries to match a particular party’s interests and objectives. Without simply opting for the most expensive properties. 

So where would we go ourselves if we had to book an Africa trip this very minute, using mostly the properties which our Fish Eagle Safaris team checked out over the last couple of months? I asked the members of our Fish Eagle Safaris team to chime in.  

Here is what they had to say:

Lyndon: “I’d opt for a combination of Victoria Falls and Botswana and the trip would ideally include several days at Wilderness’ new Mababe concession camp, Mokete. On just one day there in late May we saw more animals in total, more different species and more rarities (how about aardvark, African wild cat and bat eared fox) than most visitors would see in a week on safari elsewhere.  

Consider taking a business class flight into Vic Falls, if only to get to the front of the line for the visa/immigration process which has lately proven to be quite challenging in terms of duration. Victoria Falls is a good starting point to shake off some jet lag and it acts as a buffer in case of any flight delays. It has many attractive accommodation options including Ilala Lodge, Pioneers, Palm River Hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel and Stanley & Livingstone Hotel. Be sure to include a guided tour of the falls and a jet boat sundowner cruise.  

From there I’d head to Hwange for three or ideally four nights at one of the Imvelo or Wilderness properties such as Camelthorn, Bomani, Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, or Davison’s, depending on budget. I have a soft spot for Hwange and to date this year it has been producing some great game viewing. We’ve previously mentioned that the country is facing what could end up being a serious drought. Game viewing should continue to be good but young and weak, older elephants will be facing an uphill battle towards the end of the dry season.  

Ideally, end your safari with at least six nights in Botswana split between two camps. 

I would put Mokete right at the top of the list for the remainder of this season and likely into the future. It’s a unique Botswana property; on my recent visit there it felt a lot like visiting the Serengeti, somehow relocated to southern Africa. Mokete is really a  ‘must visit’ from now until probably November – and will likely be excellent until then.

With Mokete, I would add a few days at perhaps Karangoma and – for a true Okavango Delta experience at an affordable price point – two nights at a water camp like Setari.    

Our group had a fabulous time during our all too short 2-night stay at the brand new Karangoma. It is an intimate camp with only 6 tents, each one with just the right amount of luxury. The scenery in the north-eastern Okavango Delta is idyllic and the remoteness is unparalleled with a 10-minute helicopter flight required to reach camp.

Setari is also remote and requires a boat ride of about 45 minutes from the airstrip to reach camp. Located in the main artery of the Okavango Delta it has permanent water year-round and is a different, more laid back experience than many other Botswana camps. The perfect way to end a successful trip.

Jason: “One of our most successful offerings has always been a combination of South Africa, Victoria Falls and either Zimbabwe or Botswana. If I could book a trip for a client right now, that’s where I would try to focus my efforts.

With a night in Johannesburg, or a few in Cape Town at the start of the trip to try and mitigate jet lag, the trip would kick off with four nights in Sabi Sand at one of our favorite properties. Mala Mala, Savanna, Sabi Sabi, Leopard Hills and Cheetah Plains all make for excellent choices with varying degrees of luxury and price points. The Sabi Sand is a game-rich Big 5 location and has always produced for our guests.

Next, a light air flight to Kruger’s MQP international airport would connect with a commercial flight to Victoria Falls. Ideally, spend two nights here at properties like The Victoria Falls Hotel, Ilala Lodge or Batonka Guest Lodge. We typically recommend a tour of the falls, a sunset cruise and some free time to explore Victoria Falls Town. You could also fill time with adventure activities like scenic helicopter flights, gorge swings, swimming in Devil’s Pool right on the edge of the falls (time of year dependent) or cultural activities in nearby villages.

The last three to six nights on this type of itinerary would be in Botswana’s Okavango Delta where things can slow down a little bit. With a huge number of amazing safari camp offerings, it’s difficult to decide just where to go. But you can count on our knowledge of the camps and areas to select a combination that would work best for your needs. 

Want to see the highest concentration of wildlife? In that case you’d definitely want to spend some time at Wilderness’ Chitabe/Chitabe Lediba camps. It’s been delivering simply brilliant game viewing with guests treated to mesmerizing experiences involving leopards, cheetahs, lions and African painted dogs, day after day.

Want to relax on the water in a boat or mokoro? Stick with some of the Okavango Delta camps (in flood season) like Wilderness’ Kwetsani, Little Tubu or Jao or Great Plains’ Okavango Explorers Camp. 

Want a combination of land and water activities? Machaba’s Gomoti Plains might be the answer. Even during droughts the Gomoti area has water year-round for mokoro rides and typically there is enough for boating as well. Plus it has plenty of open plains to explore on a traditional vehicle safari. On my recent trip, we found ourselves joining a hunt – bounding through the bush in an attempt to keep up with the effortlessly fast pace of a pack of painted dogs. Later that same morning we were on a mokoro attempting to photograph malachite kingfishers, African jacanas and red lechwe antelopes.

Bert:  We’ve always advised prospective travelers to Africa to  spend more time in fewer areas. Based on my experiences on our most recent trip I think visitors would do well to extend that principle into their day-to-day activities on safari. Ideally by including the services of a private guide and vehicle on at least part of their trip. 

This makes it possible to slow down game drives in order to spend less time actually driving, and more time experiencing. More time to observe, to record, and to learn.  Focusing on the details of specific sightings and not just bouncing around from animal to animal. 

Not trying to check everything off your list often results in unexpected but welcome developments. Mostly in the way of seeing something much more interesting than what you started off with.

Patience and perseverance almost always pays off in the wilderness. We’ve had painted dogs walk into an otherwise blah sighting, we’ve seen ‘stationary cheetah’ turn into ‘running cheetah on the hunt,’ and we’ve experienced baby leopards suddenly and unexpectedly join their mom, right in front of us.   

Where would I go right now, looking mostly at the properties which Kathy and I recently visited in East Africa? I would book my Kenya Airways non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi, spend a couple of days in Nairobi (for a morning game drive in Nairobi National Park and a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage) and then head to either Lewa or Laikipia for 4 nights. Few other places in East Africa or the rest of the continent for that matter, can match properties like Lewa Wilderness or Kicheche Laikipia in terms of diversity. They have all the usual plains game and the big cats, and on top of that a trio of superb near-endemics in the way of Grevy’s Zebra, reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx.  Plus healthy numbers of both black and white rhinos with their horns intact. 

And then I’d head straight to the Masai Mara, splitting my time there between a property in one of the conservancies to the north of the Mara, and ending with a few days in the Mara Triangle, in the north of the park. These two areas make a great combination, melding the freedom to go off-road inside the conservancy and the ability to drive at night, with the amazing grandeur and spectacle of the Mara Triangle. Inch for inch it is about as fascinating and rewarding an area as one could visit anywhere in Africa. The Mara Triangle is also one of Kenya’s most reliable areas to experience the great migration, within striking distance of several known crossing points. 

Kathy: On our recent visit to Kenya, I was amazed by the abundance of wildlife in three of the private conservancies to the north of the Masai Mara, namely Naboisho, Mara North and Lemek. Almost everywhere we looked, there were zebras in their hundreds. Plus masses of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, topis, eland, buffaloes (some huge herds!), giraffes (so many!), tons of wildebeest, hippos wherever there was water,  elephants – and several prides of lions.  

I would recommend to prospective travelers to Africa to spend up to a week or so in the Masai Mara, split between two of the conservancies or by including an additional few days in a camp which does its game drives in the Mara Triangle, such as Olonana, Little Governors, or AndBeyond Bateleur Camp.   

In addition to the Mara, Kenya has several other superb safari destinations; call or email us and a member of the team will be happy to talk to you about Tsavo or Amboseli, Lewa, Meru or Samburu. We know them all really well and can give you just the right advice as to how they can fit in with a trip to the Mara.  

For now, I will concentrate on the three properties which we visited in the conservancies. Any one of these would be an ideal ‘anchor’ property for a Kenya safari. 

Saruni Leopard Hill – Mara Naboisho Conservancy

The female management team at Leopard Hill is very accommodating and they want to insure your comfort and enjoyment at their lovely little camp. The communal area is attached to the dining area and you will enjoy the view – beautiful fig trees surrounded by 3 waterholes. The dining/communal area is on a platform and there are steps leading to a small area where guests congregate around a small bonfire in the evenings.  

This camp has 6 tents. We were in tent #3. I really liked the generous size and layout of the tents. The rooms also have a skylight which you can open up at night to ‘sleep under the stars.’ Not advisable during the rainy season though. The rooms have a king-size bed, great pillows, desk, daybed/couch, double sinks and separate shower and toilet as well as an outdoor shower. Plenty of room for your gear and a great patio overlooking the game reserve. The rooms are spaced far enough apart for privacy. They also have a honeymoon tent with a nice lounge and a family tent – two tents next to each other with doors (instead of zippers) suitable for a family of 4 

A bonus at Leopard Hill is a complimentary 30-minute back and neck massage – don’t pass this up! The spa tent is in a nice, quiet area and the masseur is a man named Viki Geel who has 18 years’ experience. He is excellent! Viki also offers yoga and stretching. I am so glad I took advantage of this and if I had more time, I certainly would have spent more time at the Leopard Hill Spa!

We had a ‘surprise’ romantic dinner on our patio the second night – very well done.

Wake up – coffee/tea are brought to your room.

We had great game viewing and a bonus here – and in the other conservancies – is the off-roading which makes a big difference if you want to pull up close to a lioness with her cubs hidden in the bushes. As we did.  

Kicheche Camp:  Mara North Conservancy, Masai Mara

Andrew Obaga is the manager at Kicheche Mara and he and his very competent staff know how to make you feel comfortable and right at home. One is introduced to the camp after walking over a small bridge and up a short hill. At the top of the hill is an amazing and unexpected sight – a beautiful and well-maintained mowed lawn with communal dining and photography tents. Early the next morning there was a little family of three tiny dik-dik antelope on the edge of the lawn; humans are not the only ones who find it appealing. 

The camp: the first communal tent is a photographer’s dream tent offering the photographer access to WIFI, computers and more. The photographer’s tent has just about everything needed for safari photographers – a real bonus in the bush! Right next door is a restroom. Walk a few more feet and you will find the dining tent with a lovely patio – indoor/outdoor dining. Two more communal tents with nice lounges, bars and two more tented restrooms complete the communal area.

Kicheche Mara has a total of 10 guest tents including a family tent. They can make any of the tents into a triple. For example if you want to travel with your mom and sister – they would be happy to put 3 adults in one tent – no problem! The pathway to each tent is clearly labeled using Swahili animal names for the tents. We were in Punda Milia (zebra). Arriving at our tent, the main power switch is a handy pull-string at the front of the tent opening. The tents are very spacious and well-appointed with a daybed, a king-sized bed, desk, open closet for all your items, a bathroom with a separate toilet, two sinks and a nice shower. We had a comfy patio with chairs and a small table so we could watch for any activity at the river. 

Kicheche is a fabulous camp and well worth a 3-night visit. Tents on our side were:  Kiboko, Punda Milia, Topi, and Kanga. They are all a short walk to the main area. Andrew told us the ‘honeymoon tent’ is located quite a bit further from the main area. Wake up – coffee/tea is brought to your room.

The food was excellent at Kicheche. After each meal the chef checked on us to make sure we were satisfied.

As was the case at the other camps in the conservancies, game viewing at Kicheche Mara commenced right out of camp. Twice, driving into and out of the camp, there were three elephant bulls with huge tusks to be seen hanging out in a marshy area close to camp; apparently they spend much of the dry season in that spot.  

Hemingways Ol Seki Mara:  Naboisho Conservancy, Masai Mara

Hemingway’s Ol Seki camp in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Masai Mara represents complete luxury on safari. The highly accomplished manager, Debbie Paul, gave us a very warm welcome – she had clearly read the guest information form – and we felt like old friends right away. Debbie took us to our room, #5, which was the closest to the lodge. The rooms are equipped with everything you will need including an indoor and outdoor shower, a gorgeous bathtub – quite a luxury on safari – and a separate/private toilet. The room has a king-size bed, a day bed and desk and a spacious wrap around patio perfect for game viewing from your room. I really liked their early morning wake-up – complete with coffee/tea and a to-go insulated mug to take on your morning game drive. You don’t want to waste any time in the mornings, and this was an added bonus.

The dining area has views of the water hole and game viewing area which can be great entertainment while dining or enjoying the communal area. The lounge and bar are attached to the dining area and they overlook a tempting pool and deck with lounge chairs and umbrellas – it’s really hard to beat this view. Relaxing in the dining area or pool area and game viewing at the same time – don’t forget your binoculars.

If you are traveling with your family, you may want to consider the Simba or Chui Suites. Ideal for parties of around 4 to 6, they are exclusive use with a private vehicle and chef, a pool and in a beautiful setting.

At Ol Seki we enjoyed great food and service and a great spa – reasonable treatment prices too. Facials and massages are offered – a wonderful way to relax during the siesta time before the afternoon game drive. 

You won’t want to leave Ol Seki!

Saruni Wild – Lemek Conservancy, Masai Mara

One more Mara property which we checked out but did not overnight at, was Saruni Wild in the Lemek Conservancy. Saruni Wild is a beautiful and welcoming classic African bush camp. This small, tented camp has a great location in the Lemek Conservancy, right on the edge of the Mara North Conservancy, with access to both for game drives. What we both liked was the instant access to several excellent game viewing areas in the Mara. On our drive from Saruni Wild, we found a female cheetah and we were told that lions had been spotted in the area just the previous day.  

Saruni Wild has an ideal mix of features which will make it easy to send our guests there in future. Effective, hands-on management, friendly staff and well-designed, well-maintained common areas and tents. All tents have the same basic layout – a king-sized bed, desk, open closet, double sinks, separate toilet and shower area.  Tents are placed far enough away for great privacy. There is no age limit for this camp.

Contact us for more information

Our Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. team has visited various Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania properties over the last couple of months. Coming up soon: educational trips to Madagascar and Mozambique. We’d love to help you arrange your first or next trip to Africa to one of these or several other African destinations. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Take Yourself On Safari

7th April 2024

Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

5th April 2024

Groundhog Day Properties Part 2 – 2024

Reviewing the trips which our Fish Eagle Safaris guests will be embarking on over the remainder of 2024, several more of our ‘Groundhog Day’ properties popped up. These are places where we would be happy to wake up every day for the rest of our lives. Eat your heart out, Bill Murray.

Jao Camp, Okavango Delta – Botswana

Imagine being dropped off – blindfolded – on a small island in the Okavango Delta. As the helicopter noise fades into the background, you take off the blindfold. Where are you? It could be one of dozens of spots in the Delta. All stunningly beautiful, but not distinctively unique. Not so the Jao Concession in the western part of the Delta. Here, the typical Delta mosaic of palm-fringed islands, crystal clear waterways, papyrus-fringed lagoons and lush reedbeds takes on an identity of its own. Practically unmistakeable. Even on just my second visit, it became clear that this part of Northern Botswana was special and unique.   

Photo credit Dana Allen

There are several superb safari camps in the concession, with Wilderness’ Jao Camp at the pinnacle of luxury, comfort and all-round excellence. There are pretty spots in the Delta, and gorgeous riverine forests, and then there’s the spot where Jao was built. When on safari I suffer from pretty intense FOMO and almost never miss a game drive. At Jao, the tables are turned. You could miss out by getting into a vehicle and leaving camp. This is where you want to spend an extra night or even two, to revel in the sybaritic splendor of the spacious and elegantly designed tents, to linger over an exquisite dinner in the museum room, or to just spend a few hours on the verandah, soaking in the atmosphere. The entire camp is elevated about 3 to 5 meters above ground level, enhancing the views and adding a tree-house like feel. Sooner or later you might actually feel like venturing out, and of course there’s plenty to do beyond R & R. The camp offers daily guided wildlife safaris, as well as boat trips and mokoro excursions (subject to water levels), allowing visitors to explore the rich biodiversity of the Okavango Delta.

Mashatu Euphorbia Lodge – South Africa

Mashatu Euphorbia Villas is about as close as a safari lodge gets to being a work of art. It all starts with a winding drive up a steep hill into the most enchanting euphorbia forest you’ve ever seen. These stark, foreboding cactus plants – sometimes referred to as candelabra trees – loom alongside the drive into camp, a harbinger of what is to come. Crest the hill and suddenly you’re looking at as dramatic an entrance as there is to any safari camp in Africa. The experience builds from there. A  stunning lounge and dining area – not to mention the outdoor space, the boma and the nest seating area, perched on the edge of a 30-meter high cliff. The view? You just have to see it in person. During our recent visit the same superlatives could be heaped on the suites and the food. Impeccable. 

The game viewing experience at Mashatu is exceptional, with three species of big cats – lions, leopards and cheetahs – being seen regularly. This alone makes Mashatu a desirable destination, but there’s a lot more. Mashatu’s elephants are known for being tolerant to the presence of vehicles and you are likely to get surprisingly close to them from time to time. Other notable species include giraffes, zebras, eland (Africa’s largest antelope) and brown hyenas. Expert guides will take you on game drives or walks through the reserve, and as there is no prohibition on driving off-road or at night, you will almost assuredly have multiple opportunities to get close up and personal with many of these special mammals and the superb birdlife. Done enough game-driving? There are many other (optional, at additional cost) activities to enjoy at Mashatu including horseback riding, mountain biking, observing the animals and birds from a hide/blind (subject to availability) and bird watching.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge – Rwanda

Wilderness Sabyinyo Lodge is hands down our favorite property in the Volcanoes National Park area. This beautiful lodge is located in a lush garden setting (the golden monkeys sometimes make a surprise visit) at the base of the Volcanoes National Park, with gorgeous views over the valley below and up towards several dormant volcanoes in the background. It is just minutes away from the Volcanoes National Park headquarters for the morning briefing before gorilla treks. The hospitality, food and rooms – and the main lodge – are all first class, and the lodge is 100% community-owned, with a sterling conservation ethos. There are several other lodges in the area with an even higher price tag (Sabyinyo is no slouch in that department) and bigger, fancier, rooms. We like Sabyinyo for providing an all-round stay which feels like spending time at someone’s private mountain lodge. Everything is to scale, it is relaxed yet with good attention to detail, and just feels like it fits into the environment without being jarring or out of place in any way.

Victoria Falls Hotel – Zimbabwe

There’s really no more interesting or fascinating place to spend a couple of nights in Vic Falls, than the Victoria Falls Hotel. Despite having all of the modern conveniences and much improved food and beverage service (compared with a few years ago), the hotel has lost none of its old-world charm. Staying there feels every bit like being transported back to the early 1900’s. Beautiful gardens, a first-class curio shop, interesting restaurants (one of which puts on a traditional dancing performance nightly) and ideally located to venture out on activities. The Victoria Falls Hotel is not only the ‘grande dame’ of all the hotels in the village, it also occupies a prime spot with a superb view over the Batoka Gorge, with the bridge spanning the chasm between Zimbabwe and Zambia right in the line of sight. Truly a timeless classic which has been carefully nurtured and maintained over the years, with all the rooms now fitted with modern bathrooms, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. The grounds and the public areas are worth exploring with a myriad of birds and smaller mammals around.

Tswalu Motse, Cape Kalahari –  South Africa

Tswalu is one of our favorite properties for many reasons, mostly because of the excellent game viewing and particularly the chance to see some special mammals such as habituated meerkats, black rhino and both pangolin and aardvark. It also has lots of desert-adapted animals like bat-eared foxes, gemsbok and springbok. Plus good predator numbers including cheetahs and lions. Tswalu includes a private guide and vehicle with all bookings and the guiding is superb. At Tswalu, you will also have the opportunity (included for all guests) to dine at Klein Jan, created by South Africa’s first Michelin Star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who owns Restaurant Jan in Nice, France. Klein Jan has become one of the world’s go-to restaurants despite its remote, isolated location in the Northern Cape’s Kalahari Desert. 

Thinking about including one or more of these stellar properties in your first or next trip to Africa? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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