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First Safari Experience

First Safari Experience

By Katie Perry

Before my first trip to Africa, I assumed I would be on a ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ adventure – something to check off the bucket list. But from the moment I arrived, I realized that the experience has a way of changing you. As we left our final camp I wondered what the rest of the guests would see that same evening. Even on the flight home, I found myself longing to go back, as though I might miss something extraordinary happening.

It didn’t take long for Africa to work its magic. I became a morning person overnight – no small feat for someone who usually treasures a slow start on vacation. By 5:30am, I was awake and eager to explore. As I bundled up for the game drive on my first morning, I heard a deep, resonant roar outside. Jason smiled and said it was a male lion calling out to mark his territory. The sound was thrilling – wild and ancient – and set the tone for everything that followed. 

After a quick breakfast and with coffee to-go we were out on the vehicle with our guide Neo and our tracker Themba. Within an hour I found myself sitting in an open-air vehicle at sunrise, a warm water bottle on my lap, watching a pride of lions glide past. We were surprisingly close! I made eye contact with the lioness in front of the pride and I will never forget the feeling. A mix of excitement, fear and wonder. The lioness couldn’t have cared less – she and the pride walked within feet of our vehicle and found a shady spot to lie down with her cubs.

By the end of that first day I had seen all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and Cape buffalo), but more than the sightings themselves it was the connection to nature that stayed with me. I used to wonder how Jason could see the same animals time and again. How he could watch a wildlife documentary as if he hadn’t seen all of those animals before. Now I’m the one searching out the documentaries, the videos, the photos. I’m the one rooting for the lone, hungry leopard to make a kill – although I’m not entirely ready to see that part of the circle of life. Luckily the only kill witnessed on our safari was during the final morning game drive when we saw a predatory bird capture a mouse. There was enough obstruction in the trees to not see the worst of it, but we all knew what had happened.

All in all, this supposed ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ adventure became something far more meaningful. I know I’ll be drawn back to Africa again and again, as are many of Fish Eagle Safaris’ guests. The ‘Africa Bug’ bites and doesn’t let go.

If you’re ready to join the ranks of first-time Africa visitors – or to make a return trip to the continent – by all means contact Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for his recommendations. South Africa? Kenya? Botswana? It all depends on what you have in mind, and we love to talk about it. So leave us a message at 1-800-513-5222 and one of the team will be sure to call you back.

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The 2025-2026 Safari Landscape

The 2025-2026 Safari Landscape

Our recent safari experiences in East and Southern Africa as well as in Madagascar have reinforced some long held beliefs and recommendations which we use as guidelines for designing itineraries. 

Spending more time in fewer areas

Above all, we recommend spending more time in fewer areas so as not to rush around exchanging one camp and area for another every couple of days. It is exhausting, expensive, counter-productive and just flat out doesn’t make sense. Our Africa, India and Madagascar destinations lend themselves to ‘slow travel’ in the positive sense of the word, in keeping with the natural, relaxed pace of the wilderness. 

Limit cross-border travel

In the same vein, we recommend limiting the number of international border crossings on any trip. They often lead to delays, problems associated with obtaining visas or electronic travel authorization and lost time traveling between countries. In longer itineraries clearly that is unavoidable to a certain extent.

Include a buffer night on arrival

Yet another consideration is building in a buffer day at the start of trips to avoid unwanted repercussions of delays departing from the USA caused by flight schedule changes or flight cancellations. Better to miss a night in Nairobi or Joburg than to show up a day late at your first safari stop. Plus you’ll feel a lot better by day three starting your safari, as you will be at least partially recovered from the effects of skipping over multiple time zones.

Based on our recent trips and personal experiences, here are some thoughts from our team at Fish Eagle Safaris about five of our key destinations. Why we think they are worth visiting, what to expect, and a few insights and recommendations.

Kenya

Kenya has as much diversity as any safari country in Africa with a multitude of habitats, climate zones and vegetation types, resulting in an equally diverse safari experience. Nowhere else are you likely to see as wide a variety of big game and other mammals, birds and reptiles as easily. Much of the terrain is open and easily accessible, so game viewing is generally productive and enjoyable with excellent photo opportunities. Observing and experiencing culture in the way of interacting with people like the Maasai and the Samburu is an integral part of the Kenya experience. Kenya also has some beautiful Indian Ocean beaches so consider spending a few days at a resort like Kinondo Kwetu, Almanara in Diani Beach, or Cardamon House in the Vipingo area, for some rest and relaxation at the end of your safari. While it’s not a traditional beach destination, the town of Lamu and nearby village of Shela have much to offer as well. 

Not a year goes by for us without a Kenya trip as we use Nairobi as a stopover en route to South Africa. Here’s what has impressed us most on our last couple of visits:

* One of the best things we ever did in Kenya (twice) was to visit two of the reintegration units where the Sheldrick elephant orphans are released back into the wilderness. First at Ithumba and then Galdessa. Ithumba is the best choice for anyone wanting a complete ‘morning, noon and night’ orphan elephant immersion. Galdessa has an inspired location right on the Galana River, at the base of the Yatta Plateau. Spend a few days there – including a day trip to visit the Voi reintegration unit and interacting with the large group of orphan elephants there – and you may never want to leave.

* We pretty much fell in love with the Peponi Hotel in Shela at first sight. The location, the people, the food! We could have had the stuffed crab every day. Come to think of it, we did… Using the Peponi as a base for a couple of days or so, you can immerse yourself into the Swahili culture and customs, among others, with a cooking lesson in a private home. Take a guided walk in the quaint village of Shela, have some kikoi pants tailored just for you, go on a sundowner dhow cruise, and take a dip in the Indian Ocean. It is the perfect area to kick back a little bit, take in what is happening right around you and soak in the atmosphere of this very different area, a world away from the Mara or Samburu. Relaxing yet fascinating, with some new (and something really, really old) around every corner.

* Many people want to see rhinos on their African safari and understandably so, as these prehistoric-looking behemoths are one of the ‘Big Five’ mammals, and several rhino species – including the African black rhino – are critically endangered. Contrary to the situation in some other African countries – where rhinos are routinely de-horned in order to make them less attractive to poachers – this disfiguring practice is not prevalent in Kenya. You can visit private conservancies like Lewa or Ol Pejeta and observe dozens of black and white rhinos – there’s lots of them – all with their beautiful horns perfectly intact.

* On every visit to Kenya, we discover something new or special; some facet of the wilderness experience which elevates it from interesting to extraordinary. Going off-road in Tsavo East with researchers from the Tsavo Trust, looking for and finding a super tusker elephant (one with more than 100 pounds of ivory on each side) was such an experience. Another was sleeping on a raised platform inside a black rhino sanctuary in Tsavo West and watching their ghostly white shapes – generated by a thermal camera – move into and out of a waterhole at night. Together with several other mammals including elephants and the occasional predator. Witnessing a black leopard kill in Laikipia was our top addition to our personal Kenyan ‘hall of fame’ safari experiences. With more surely to come.

Botswana

Botswana is one of Africa’s top safari destinations because of its combination of great game viewing, beautiful natural surroundings and the presence of the unique Okavango Delta. Many Botswana safari camps operate in private concessions where there are few other vehicles and people around.

In the private concessions off-road driving and night drives are allowed, and the vehicles are open-sided, with good visibility. Botswana is a fully functioning democracy and is considered to be one of the safest countries in all of Africa.

Here’s what we’ve done and experienced in Botswana lately – you may be able to incorporate some of this in your own Botswana trip:

* On a trip this last July, we rediscovered the pure safari experience associated with a mobile tented camp in the heart of the wilderness. Having a huge elephant bull enjoying the vegetation in a small swamp right in front of our camp (albeit at a safe distance) was exhilarating and made us feel just a little bit vulnerable, even though the elephant hardly took notice of our presence. Trying to figure out all the night sounds, wondering about that crunching sound outside the tent (a hippo?) and trying to guess how far the roaring lions were from us (very far) was fun and made it easy to switch off the Kindle. The next morning we checked outside the tent and sure enough, the tell-tale footprints of a hippo confirmed our suspicions.

* It took us too long but we finally made it onto a Chobe River cruise for a peaceful, yet activity-filled three days on the Chobe Princess. While it’s a perfectly fine experience for a couple, the ideal arrangements would be to do the cruise on an exclusive use basis for your own small group of friends or family. We were pleasantly surprised at just how many different animals and birds we saw from the small boats on outings, notably of course elephants and hippos (safely). Enjoying several of the on board meals as we were slowly cruising up the Chobe River, and enjoying some of the most peaceful nights ever in our cozy cabin, were high points too. We’d do it again!

* Our two most recent Botswana trips reminded us just how remote and private the Botswana safari experience can be, particularly inside the private concessions. Sometimes days went by without seeing so much as one or two other vehicles on safari, even when we were on a predator sighting. Community areas like in Khwai do get a little busy – as does Chobe – but hardly ever to the point of distraction. There’s lots of room to drive to a different location.  

* While many of the deluxe or premier camps in the Okavango Delta and surrounding areas are eye-wateringly expensive, particularly in the high season (from about June through October), our destination management companies who help us put together itineraries have become quite adept at finding long-stay offers, shoulder and green season rates, camp opening specials, package deal discounts, free flight inclusions and other cost-saving measures. So don’t give up on Botswana because of perceived high prices. There are ways and means – from traveling in off-peak times to including more moderately priced properties and areas (such as Mashatu in southeastern Botswana) – to keep a Botswana trip affordable. 

Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe is a first-class safari destination with several prime safari areas, all offering a classic safari experience at a price point which can be as little as half the cost of other comparable safari destinations. The country is particularly well known for its abundance of elephants, with as many as 30,000 to 40,000 in greater Hwange National Park. Zimbabwe is ideal for a single country trip with exceptional diversity including Victoria Falls and several options for safaris, some of which, like Mana Pools, are considered to be among the finest in Africa.

Zimbabwe has some truly remote and lightly traveled areas to be explored such as Gonarezhou National Park, which is as wild as it gets, and the Matobo, which is all about history, culture and spirituality. The views of Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi are simply the best and the area around the Falls offers a growing range of adventure activities including helicopter flights over the falls, white-water rafting, bungee jumping, sundowner cruises and many others.

Keep these camps and places in mind for your own customized Zimbabwe trip:

* Victoria Falls is the ideal gateway to a Zimbabwe (or even a Botswana or Zambia) safari. Spend your first two nights there, enjoy a peaceful sundowner cruise on the Zambezi (complete with hot canapes while you scan for hippos) and take a nice long walk along the edge of the Falls on the Zimbabwe side with a local guide. There’s nowhere better to give your body a bit of time to get over jet lag before you set off on your first game drive.  

* The grassy pans in the southern part of Hwange National Park – and notably the greater Ngamo area – can be surprisingly good for game viewing in the green or low-demand season. With the onset of the rain in December and January, the fresh emerging grass on the open pans acts like a magnet for the herbivores. It’s not unusual at all to see as many as six  species of ungulates at the same time, including wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, impala, roan, sable, eland and buffalo. Predictably this abundance of prey animals leads to increased predator activity with cheetahs and lions – as well as hyenas and leopards in some spots – taking notice. The low-demand season offers the most affordable rates of any time of the year. The sunrises and sunsets are gorgeous and the baby animals outnumber the people and vehicles by a factor of hundreds to one. For the birdwatchers, there are many birds in colorful – even extravagant – breeding plumage and lots of intra-African and Palearctic migrants in place.

* Most of the Zimbabwean parks are ideal for walking safaris, notably Mana Pools and Hwange. What we’ve done on several occasions lately is to embark on a game drive and then to hop off the vehicle on foot when a suitable opportunity presents itself. For example, to move close to a small breeding herd of elephants, when wind and other conditions are favorable. Zimbabwe guides are among the best in Africa and their ‘full pro’ guide’s licence – which takes as long as five to seven years to obtain – sets the gold standard for the rest of the continent.  

* One of our most memorable recent Zimbabwe experiences was to learn more about the reintroduction of white rhinos into the Hwange area, and to spend time with some of these gentle giants while staying at camps such as Camelthorn and Bomani. Visiting the Ngamo Rhino Sanctuary and learning about the Community Rhino Conservation Initiative was fascinating. Even more so – walking with the rhinos and getting close to them in a safe, controlled environment. On one occasion a couple of them took a nap inside the Camelthorn Lodge grounds while we were enjoying lunch. Lately they’ve even been seen using the main entrance to the lodge, much like any other visitor would!

Tanzania

Tanzania is a huge and diverse country with several prominent safari destinations which are among the top choices in Africa, such as the vast Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater. The Serengeti has indeed become practically synonymous with the annual zebra and wildebeest migration, unfortunately leading to some degree of congestion in the central and northern Serengeti in the peak season.  

Other safari areas like Tarangire in the north, Nyerere and Ruaha in the south and Katavi and the Mahale Mountains National Parks in the west, may not be as well known but are no less exciting to visit. Together with its Indian Ocean beach destinations and nearby Zanzibar, Tanzania is an ideal all-round safari destination where one can easily combine game viewing, adventure, cultural interaction and a beach or resort experience. For keen hikers, successfully reaching the summit of Tanzania’s Mt. Kilimanjaro is a bucket list item. At 19,341 feet above sea level, Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa and also the highest single free-standing mountain in the world.

Fish Eagle Safaris founder Bert has climbed four of the five major Kilimanjaro routes so reach out to him for advice, recommendations and inspiration. 

Over the last few years we’ve been visiting Tanzania at least once every year. Here are some of our observations:

* If there’s one place in Africa where we recommend spending some time in a mobile tented camp, it’s the Serengeti. Particularly during the migration season but really on any safari. It evokes the Africa of old, with expedition style accommodation and furnishings, maybe even a traditional ‘bucket’ shower. More importantly a mobile tented camp opens up the entire night to your imagination. You will hear lions roaring, hyenas and jackals calling, the chirping of African scops owls, hopefully wildebeest grunting and – my favorite – the hauntingly beautiful, evocative braying of the zebra stallions, reverberating over the savannah.  

* Tanzania is the best ‘migration’ destination in East Africa so if you want to maximize your chances to experience this awesome phenomenon, then by all means plan on spending some time in the Serengeti. While it is possible to include both the Serengeti (Tanzania) and the Masai Mara (Kenya) in one itinerary, it is somewhat of a duplication as the two reserves are part of the same ecosystem. The Masai Mara is simply the northernmost extension of the Serengeti. So you’ll be seeing the same mammals and birds, same general environment, same scenery.  

* Instead of the more traditional northern Serengeti migration safari from July through October, consider traveling to Tanzania in the (US) winter months, particularly from January through the end of March. This is when the zebra and wildebeest herds find themselves in the southern Serengeti – often congregated in the short-grass plains of the greater Ndutu area – for the calving season. While there won’t be any river crossings, observing thousands of wildebeest and zebra – sometimes in every direction of the compass – can be just as fascinating. Groups will often erupt into motion and start to run in a single direction causing a chain reaction with hundreds of animals running full speed not to fall behind, and then abruptly slowing down or even stopping, all with no apparent rhyme or reason. 

* We have been checking out a few moderately priced safari camp options in both the central and northern Serengeti which we think maximize the game viewing potential, along with superb guiding and great vehicles but without having to pay a super premium price. Ask any one of us for more information or a cost estimate. 

India

India is a huge and incredibly diverse country – more like a continent really – with a complex and fascinating history, as well as stunning cultural, religious and linguistic diversity. Visiting India is akin to experiencing literally everything and anything simultaneously. It is a riot of color and experiences like no other and can be a bit daunting for inexperienced travelers. Rest assured that the highly experienced team at Encounters Asia – our India partners – will be there 24-7 to assist you personally as needed. So that you can focus 100% on the experience and not have to worry about any of the logistics. From a pre-allocated seat on the Gathimaan Express train from Delhi to Agra to extra luggage allowance on all domestic and regional flights, everything has been taken care of. All you have to do is enjoy the food, the people, the landscapes, the wildlife, the architecture and everything else that makes up the incredible India experience.

On the trips we design, clearly finding and seeing Bengal Tigers and other fascinating Indian mammals such as sloth bears, Indian leopards, Asian elephants, guar (Indian bison), and the one-horned rhinos of Kaziranga in the far eastern state of Assam, is a priority. Beyond that, we think absolutely everyone should include a short visit to Agra to experience the Taj Mahal. If you do want to explore the amazing cultural and religious diversity and rich history of India beyond just Delhi or Mumbai and Agra, we’re ready with advice and recommendations for cities like Jaipur (the pink city) and Varanasi – for an incredible immersion into the Hindu way of life.  

India has almost 1.5 billion inhabitants so yes, you can anticipate some traffic, pollution and congestion. I think my best advice is not to fight it, just embrace it. Adjust your attitude and roll with it. Do that and you will find wonderful, interesting people literally around every corner. People who are genuinely keen to meet and interact with complete strangers. Never will you be asked to pose for as many selfies with strangers as in India.

Our passion for India keeps growing apace and our lengthy March-April 2025 trip added considerably to our knowledge base. Here are a few thoughts and suggestions :

* If there’s one tiger reserve you absolutely cannot leave off your India itinerary, it has to be Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh. So many tigers, so much adventure! Look no further than Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge where general manager Sadhvi Singh and her team (including her husband Harsh) will turn you into a tiger aficionado in no time!

* Satpura National Park is fast turning into one of the best overall and certainly most diverse tiger reserves, with fewer visitors around and more opportunities for undisturbed moments than many of the ‘big name’ reserves. Look for the sloth bears – and don’t be fooled by the ‘sloth’ in the name. Those are real bears. 

* I don’t think I’m the only person around who liked Mumbai more than Delhi as the starting point for a tiger-focused trip. Maybe it was the sea breeze or the stunning views from Mumbai’s Arabian Sea coastline, or its cosmopolitan, lively atmosphere.  

* For the love of everything holy, don’t leave the Taj Mahal off your India itinerary.  It’s a mesmering sight.  Even if there’s a thousand people there on the day of your visit, it will not matter one whit. You will be amazed.

In part two of this country round-up (in our October newsletter), we will take a look at Zambia, South Africa, Namibia, Rwanda and Uganda. Our team at Fish Eagle Safaris is ready to assist you with your Africa, India and Madagascar travel plans so please contact Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com for more information, or leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222.

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The Leopards of Laikipia Wilderness

The Leopards of Laikipia Wilderness

Hardly ten days after it happened, I am still trying to process the experience of seeing a rare black leopard – Giza – practically launch itself across a small dirt track in a private conservancy in north-central Kenya, straight at a hapless Gunther’s dikdik, then moments afterwards lifting up its head with the tiny antelope hanging from its jaws, lifeless. It’s rare to see a leopard kill, let alone a black leopard kill.    

This event took place in near total darkness, dimly illuminated only by the light of the moon (a day away from being full) and red-filtered spotlights trained on it by the specialist guides from Laikipia Wilderness Camp, where Kathy and I spent a couple of nights in early September.  

Even more remarkable was that we had seen Giza the previous night as well. As we were to learn during the course of our visit, Giza enters the Laikipia Wilderness conservancy most evenings after dark, to hunt (mostly dikdiks of which there are seemingly thousands in the area, but also impala), and if successful she takes the carcass into the adjacent Mpala ranch where she currently has two cubs secured in a rocky outcrop.  

For those of you considering visiting this camp in Laikipia in search of a black leopard, my best advice would be to plan on spending at least four or five nights – even a week. The black leopard situation is fluid at all times and may change literally overnight. To improve your chances, you can pay extra for a Black Leopard Private Vehicle or Black Leopard Shared Vehicle so that you will be given a priority slot at a black leopard sighting. To be sure, none of this guarantees a black leopard sighting as Giza is a wild animal.  

What guests at Laikipia Wilderness can look forward to with more certainty than seeing Giza hunting dikdiks, is a comfortable stay in a cozy tented camp and superb hospitality from a team of young managers and hosts, as well as a squad of talented chefs. The food was exceptionally good and the desserts absolutely impossible to turn down. Lunch on day one set the scene: choice of a vegetarian or chicken roll with a beetroot and grapefruit salad as well as a tomato, olive, onion and feta cheese salad. With focaccia bread on the side. Dinner was delicious with a perfectly cooked fillet of beef with peppercorn sauce, Yorkshire pudding, mashed potato, green beans and sautéed cauliflower. The vegetarian option was a mushroom Wellington. Dessert was the chef’s take on a South African classic – malva pudding. 

On our recent visit we had the best time ever with camp managers Louis and Sophie and hosts Amelia and Duke. Our guiding team of Patrick and Stephen were enthusiastic, didn’t miss a thing (we were the only vehicle with an unobstructed view of the black leopard kill) and they quickly picked up on our birding interest, helping us to rack up some 50 or so species without really going out of our way.  

First impressions of the camp were favorable: there was a good staff dynamic, the property had a real ‘home away from home’ feel with several friendly (albeit a bit dusty) dogs around. There is a spacious elevated lounge and dining area with a large verandah. Be sure to plan some time just sitting there – maybe with a cup of tea or something – looking out over the rugged Laikipia landscape. We often had elephants visible in the far background.  

The tents (there are 7) are fairly basic but quite comfortable with a good sized (brick enclosed) bathroom with a shower and flush toilet. The double bed had soft cushions and there is a small covered patio with two comfortable wicker chairs. 

Clearly Laikipia Wilderness comes into its own with the activities. Our very first afternoon game drive set the scene. It was nothing short of phenomenal with sightings of a striped hyena, shortly followed by an extraordinary sighting of three leopards (two of which were a mating pair). More than once the two adult leopards were less than ten feet from us. Even while mating.  

Our afternoon drive morphed into a night drive. Minutes after spotting a common genet we experienced the ultimate sighting of our entire trip: Giza, the black leopard referred to earlier. On the first night we observed her hunting, rapidly slinking through the grass, stopping briefly once or twice to smell something.  

General wildlife viewing in the conservancy was pretty good too with exceptionally good numbers of elephants around, lots of Burchell’s and a few Grevy’s zebra, plenty of reticulated giraffe, some Cape buffalo, impala, Beisa oryx, eland, spotted hyena and jackal. On our very last drive on the morning of our departure back to the USA, we came across two young leopard cubs tussling over the remains of a carcass. Our guides were as excited as we were to observe the two youngsters as it was the first time that they had seen them too! The guides were aware of the young leopards’ presence, but this was the first ‘public’ viewing. It augurs well for the future of the conservancy. There’s a new generation of leopards in the process of being habituated so future guests can enjoy the same sense of awe and appreciation which we experienced at Laikipia Wilderness during our stay. I think it was most fitting that the last few photos on my card were of leopards; they are clearly at the heart of the Laikipia Wilderness experience.

About photographing Giza: I’ve always known that night photography is not my forte and this visit reconfirmed it. Despite giving it considerable effort, I came up with exactly zero good or even decent photographs. A moving pitch black object in a mostly dark environment is a wildlife photographer’s nightmare. Next time, I will take a different camera and a shorter, faster lens.  

For information on how to best include a few days at Laikipia Wilderness on your next – or first – Kenya trip, call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

Header photo courtesy Laikipia Wilderness Camp

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Northern Botswana Exploration

Northern Botswana Exploration

It has been several years since we’ve seen the Okavango Delta looking quite as pretty as it did in early July this year. Abundant rainfall earlier in the year had turned all of northern Botswana into a lush green paradise. 

While the copious amounts of water in the Delta resulted in some minor logistical headaches, such as the temporary closure of a couple of airstrips, the widespread rain ended a severe drought. The rain recharged the entire region and we expect wildlife viewing conditions in northern Botswana and the greater Hwange area in Zimbabwe to remain excellent well into 2026. 

On a weeklong familiarization trip in July Kathy and I visited a lodge in Chobe and three tented camps in the Okavango Delta. Overall the wildlife viewing exceeded our expectations and we enjoyed the guiding expertise, the remarkably good food and the spontaneity and warmth of the staff.

A & K Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero 

A & K Sanctuary are one of a select group of safari operators whom we rely on to deliver a consistently excellent guest experience all the time, every time. Their standards are exceedingly high and whether it’s the guiding, the food and beverage, the accommodation or the front of house experience, A & K gets it right year in and year out. 

It was no different on our recent visit to A & K Sanctuary’s Chobe Chilwero Camp which we include in many Botswana safaris, often as an extension from Victoria Falls. Right from the warm arrival experience, succinct new guest briefing through to a splendid private dinner on our patio to a couple of outstanding boating excursions in the Chobe River, our brief stay at Chobe Chilwero was impeccable. 

The imposing individual rooms are about as well appointed and comfortable as it gets in the luxury safari lodge category. Nothing is lacking, from a massive mosquito net clad king size bed to a huge standalone tub, indoor and outdoor shower, air conditioning and more. 

Activities include game drives into Chobe National Park and boating excursions on the Chobe River. Our advice to all Chobe visitors is to prioritize boating on the Chobe River as it provides a different and novel alternative to game drives. From a boat, you’ll have a unique perspective looking out from a stable platform towards the shoreline and the animals and birds usually congregating there. In the dry season you’re likely to see large numbers of elephants right at the water’s edge and often in the water, sometimes swimming to some of the islands between Botswana and Namibia. It was no different this time. We managed to fit in two boating trips while at Chobe Chilwero and both were entertaining and fun. We had some of our best views ever of elephants walking – and swimming – in the river and with the light at our backs the photographic results were stellar.   

Brave Africa 

On our first night with Brave Africa on a mobile tent safari in the Khwai region of northern Botswana, we sat around the campfire prior to dinner and one after another we started to hear the old, familiar night sounds of Africa, rising above the crackling of the igniting mopane wood. The sharp clinking of several painted reed frogs emanating from the reeds lining a small stream right in front of camp. The call of a barred owlet announcing the start of its day. Two hippos honking. First just one and then two hyenas exchanging their whooping calls. And finally, from across the Khwai River in the Moremi Game Reserve, the unmistakable roar of a lion. Memories of past experiences came flooding back into our conscious minds and just like that we were on safari, without budging from our camp chairs. 

So often on safari nowadays the sounds of the wilderness are silenced by the hum of air conditioning or shut out by walls and window panes. Not so on a mobile tented expedition. Nothing more than canvas between you and whatever you can imagine is out there. Soft footsteps close by, shrill elephant arguments in the background – it’s a new script every night and you’re in it. 

It had been a while since Kathy and I experienced a proper camping safari. We enjoy a touch of luxury as much as anyone but we’ve never quite lost our affection for a more spare, back to basics experience. With less in the way of luxury trappings and more contact with the wilderness. A pure safari experience, some might say. 

Lately we’ve had several travelers ask us about low-cost/high-adventure safari options. Of the type where you spend a few nights in basic tents but with a flush toilet, a more than comfortable bed with proper cushions and most importantly – top notch guiding. 

We think we found just that in Brave Africa, a Botswana owned company headed up by head guide, president and owner Tabona Wina. ‘Just call me Wina’. Brave Africa’s mobile tented safaris range from 3 nights in one area such as Khwai to as many as 9 nights in three areas including Xakanaxa, Khwai and Savuti.

Praise from all of our guests who have spent time on safari with Brave Africa over the last few months has been effusive. 

“Brave Africa with its mobile tents and no wifi or electricity was exactly what we wanted for part of our trip. One night a fleeing animal ran head-long into my tent and another night lions made a kill about +/-50 yards from our campsite. The owner/guide Wina had a crew that he’d managed to keep through COVID and that was fiercely loyal to him. The entire setup was everything any guest could hope for including a chef that made bread that I still dream about.” 

***

“If you ever decide to go on safari, I highly recommend spending time in a remote, mobile camp, most specifically Brave Africa. Aside from the exhilaration of seeing very large, dangerous beasts in their natural environments, the tranquility, serenity, and pure joy you will experience off the grid is priceless.”

Wina is the Owner/Guide/Elephant Whisperer of Brave Africa. If I had only one word to describe Wina, it would be passionate. His affinity for elephants is palpable, even down to the sterling silver elephant charm he wears around his neck. However, his incredible knowledge of Botswana’s animals, reptiles, and birds does not stop there.”

We think that Brave Africa and a couple of other mobile camping operators in Botswana will appeal to guests who are keen to experience the wilderness under canvas in an authentic, classic manner. Where the focus is mostly on what happens outside the tent. 

Our two-night stay was certainly memorable and mostly so because of Wina and his crack staff. They keep things interesting by moving guests around for meals and pre dinner drinks; even the fireplace was in a different spot on day two. Wina is affable, witty and knows how to impart knowledge in an entertaining, non-pedantic manner. 

Game viewing in the Khwai community area is predictably good and the highlights were getting really close to many large bull elephants and several small breeding herds. There were pretty good numbers of zebras and wildebeest around and we were most fortunate to also see and photograph some African painted dog pups at their den. We also came upon the aftermath of a small group of the dogs taking down an impala. Some close up views of a young rock python in a tree livened up a quiet morning drive. 

Machaba Camp

Our first afternoon game drive from Machaba Camp into the Moremi Game Reserve was the stuff that safari dreams are made of. The experience that makes up for the slow days. That keeps you coming back for more. And makes you realize once again just how special northern Botswana is.   

The start of the drive was inauspicious at best, with the road passing right by the fairly busy Khwai village with pedestrians afoot and vehicles coming and going. We were not too concerned, knowing that the objective of the drive was to reach a large pride of lions; the ones we heard from camp the previous night. 

Once we had entered the Moremi Game Reserve, everything changed. For the next hour plus we drove through a simply stunningly beautiful area, a series of golden-hued grassy pans slowly filling up with water. Sticking close to the treeline,  one and then another and another huge expanse of untouched floodplain slid by. Each as beautiful as the one before. 

Quite remarkably, for just about the duration of the drive within the reserve, we were never beyond sight of wildlife. Most prominent were the elephants. Several large  herds of them, moving mostly out of the floodplain on our left and into the woodland on the right. At one point a recalcitrant matriarch blocked the path and we had to take five. Elephant delay.  

In addition to the elephants, an impressive array of plains game vied for our attention. Reedbuck. Lechwe. Zebra, wildebeest, warthogs, impala and waterbuck. Many of them perfectly lit in the soft afternoon light. Ground hornbills, hyenas and giraffes in the far background. We had a few Australian guests in the vehicle with us and they were as thrilled as we were. Not only with the abundance of animals and birds but even more so the grandeur of the Moremi landscape after a bumper rainy season. It was simply spectacular and reminded me a lot of driving through the Mara Triangle in Kenya a couple of years ago. 

When we finally reached the pride of lions, the light was deteriorating rapidly but we managed some good exposures nonetheless, particularly of a young cub clambering on top of a termite mound. The adult lions were either obscured by bushes or facing the wrong way or just not in the right spot. Just as I was starting to think that a golden opportunity was slipping away, the truly unthinkable happened. 

As our guide was backing up the vehicle to turn around for the long drive back to camp, we saw a female lion biting down on what looked like a dark round object. “Stop!  Stop!,”we yelled. “It’s a pangolin!”!  Of all the clearings in all of Botswana, this hapless pangolin had emerged from a thicket and walked straight into a pride of 20-something lions. A female and then a male lion took turns,  giving it their best shot to pierce the pangolin’s hard scales. A pangolin rolled up in a tight defensive ball is all but impregnable, as we could clearly see. Despite one or two ominous cracking sounds, the pangolin withstood the onslaught. By the time we had to leave for camp it was still tightly rolled up and our guide predicted that it would survive the ordeal. The Australians had not only seen their first pangolin: they had seen it in the jaws of a lion. 

Machaba camp turned out to be right in our wheelhouse in terms of style and substance. It was a comfortable ‘classic plus’ category tented camp with a friendly, easy-going atmosphere and exceptionally helpful staff members. The food was excellent and varied for both lunch and dinner. The king size bed in the large tented room was super comfortable with soft pillows and the room had a separate shower and toilet. The water pressure was off the charts which scores any camp major bonus points in my book. There was a standing fan and a desk as well, and more than adequate lighting. 

On our last morning Machaba surprised us with a delightful bush brunch complete with food laden tables and comfortable couches.  

Mokolwane camp

In search of a reasonably priced Botswana property with consistently good to excellent big cat viewing and a realistic chance to see African painted dogs? Look no further than Natural Selection’s Mokolwane Camp in the southwestern part of the Delta. Mokolwane is an adventure style, basic tented camp, essentially constructed of khaki-green canvas supported with sturdy round poles. In addition to a compact  main area split between a small lounge and dining room, there are 6 good sized rooms with en suite showers and separate toilets, as well as one family room. From our room (#7), which is the furthest one from the main area, we had a good view over the seasonally inundated floodplain in front of camp. A sturdy boardwalk connects the main area with the tents.

We thought the food at Mokolwane was excellent throughout, starting with some vegetarian quesadillas for afternoon tea on the day we arrived. 

Painted dogs on the hunt

On our first afternoon in camp, we set out for an African painted dog den after a short boat ride from the camp to where the game drive vehicles were parked. As always the painted dog experience did not disappoint. There were about 5 or 6 tiny two-and-a-half-month-old pups excitedly running around, trying to join the pack on a hunt. It wasn’t going to happen. Ever so gently but firmly they were herded back to the den to join their younger (one-and-a-half-month-old) siblings. 

A painted dog chase is the holy grail of wildlife viewing. Theater of nature. On this day the drama unfolded slowly at first. The pack of 17 dogs split up into groups, trotting and sometimes bounding through the floodplain, woodland and brush. Two of them pausing on a hillock, perfectly lit, looking left and right. Others circling back, employing every ounce of their instinct and razor sharp senses to locate their prey. We followed as best we could with our guide demonstrating remarkable skill as he somehow managed to stay within striking distance of the action. It was fast and furious with blurred blobs of black, white and gold often the only indication of the state of the hunt. The end came swiftly for one hapless impala. Fortunately we were just far enough away to be able to experience the thrill of the chase without having to be confronted with its harsh outcome.

The big cats of Mokolwane 

The big cats of the Mokolwane area of the southwestern Okavango Delta have been featured in a couple of highly acclaimed wildlife documentaries such as Big Cats 24/7 (BBC and PBS) and the Netflix documentary ‘Living with Leopards’ directed by Brad Bestelink. Bestelink and his team as well as a BBC wildlife documentary team are still filming in the area. 

It took us a while to find them (the grass in the Mokolwane area being quite high after the bumper rainy season) but an hour or so into our first game drive I had the Z-9 pointed at two extraordinarily beautiful male lions in the prime of their lives. We ended up spending the better part of an hour with the two dominant males of the Xudum pride. Two of the adult females of the pride were not far away. In all that time, not another vehicle showed up for the sighting. This was very much representative of our experience at Mokolwane. Guests can look forward to having few other cars and people around in a vast and beautiful area of the Okavango Delta. 

On our afternoon game drive we came across the slender Xudum female leopard emerging from a thicket where she had been concealing her 1.5 month old cub. The sleek leopard, clearly totally nonplussed by our presence (she’s a movie star after all),  calmly walked back to the tree where she had stashed an impala carcass the previous day. 

The following morning we went off in search of cheetahs but found the two dominant male lions again. Stealing the show, a powerful and very vocal female lion showed up, calling loudly several times while walking steadily through the bush, apparently on her way back to her cubs. We enjoyed yet another sighting of the famous female leopard on the way back to camp. 

Overall, and based only on our one brief 2-night early July stay, it seems that Mokolwane is a great choice for guests who want to maximize their chances of seeing lions, leopards and cheetahs. As well as painted dogs with at least one thriving pack of dogs being present in the area. 

We did see a fair number of elephants and general wildlife in the area but we think that the best reason to include Mokolwane on any itinerary is definitely its abundance of predator species. 

Monachira Camp

Say ‘Botswana safari’ and almost invariably ‘Okavango Delta’ comes to mind. Understably and predictably so as the Okavango Delta is the crown jewel of northern Botswana tourism. As it turned out our last stop on the July familiarization trip was Monachira, Machaba’s newest camp. Monachira is named after the Monachira channel which flows right by the camp, year round. Which makes Monachira a good choice if you want to experience typical water activities such as mokoro outings and boating, any time of the year. 

The rooms and common areas at Monachira were excellent and the staff were super friendly and accommodating. There’s a pool and camp guests can make use of the services of a massage therapist. While they don’t have air conditioning, the rooms are well ventilated with a large fan right over the bed.

On our first afternoon, we enjoyed a quiet scenic boat ride along the strong flowing Monachira River. It was a quiet outing, with impressive stands of papyrus, reeds and pampas grass lining the edges of the channel. While we only saw some giraffes and red lechwe from the boat, other guests – who had spent several days at Monachira – were thrilled with the quality of the game viewing. The upper deck of the boat provides a good vantage point for bird photography, notably at a nearby heronry where we had some good views of marabou storks. The heronry is at its most active later in the dry season. Notably, there was only one other boat in the channel (also from Monachira) and there was no sign of human habitation or presence. With Monachira camp being inside the Moremi Game Reserve, fishing is not allowed. 

The following morning we came across a coalition of two male lions around 7 years old. The two handsome, black maned cats – the dominant lions in the area – were not in an ideal spot for photography, but I captured a couple of profile pics nonetheless. The area right around Monachira camp was quite productive that morning, with several giraffes, herds of wildebeest and tsessebe and small groups of zebras. We were happy to see a pair of side-striped jackals, not as commonly seen as the blackbacked jackals. While we missed them on our short stay, leopards are being seen in the Monachira area as well. So all in all Monachira is a good bet for a mixed activity experience in an area of the Okavango Delta where boating and canoeing are not affected by seasonal fluctuations in water levels.

For more information about traveling to Botswana, email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or call and leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222.

Molokwane camp photo courtesy Natural Selection, Machaba Camp photo courtesy Machaba

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32-day India Tiger Safari – Part 3

32-day India Tiger Safari – part 3

Indrajit Latey and Ashwin HP

The participants on our two recent back-to-back small group India tiger safaris were extraordinarily fortunate to be able to find and photograph several beautiful Bengal tigers over the course of about 10 nights total in three tiger reserves. 

They also benefited greatly from the presence of the two professional local guides who led the two respective groups. The two guides – Indrajit Latey and Ashwin HP –  both experienced, keen naturalists and accomplished photographers – have their own individual style but they have a lot in common as well. Most noticeably, they are true ‘people persons’ able to relate to guests and service providers alike, always a step or two ahead of any issues and ready with advice on anything from tiger viewing etiquette to Indian street food. 

Indrajit and Ashwin helped with currency advice, checking in and out, finding lost cell phones, and reminding us not to carry power banks in our checked luggage. Mostly though they were fun to be with, great birders and every bit as enthusiastic as we were when there were any tigers about. Our trips would not have been half as enjoyable without them. India can potentially be tough to handle on one’s own, but with Indrajit and Ashwin in charge, everything happens smooth as silk.  

Our late March/early April tiger safari in India’s Madhya Pradesh state took us to two other superb tiger reserves in addition to Bandhavgarh which we reviewed in an earlier blog post HERE. The first of these was Kanha National Park. 

Kanha National Park

Following our major tiger success at Bandhavgarh, our luck seemingly abandoned us for the first two days in Kanha. Despite the best efforts of our highly experienced naturalist guide Tarun Bhati, we only had the barest glimpses of two tigers hidden in thick vegetation. We did have views of a couple of new mammals for the trip including barasingha deer and an otter. I also finally managed to get a decent photo of a red jungle fowl. 

It’s a lesson that we learn and re-learn on every wildlife safari: animals move around in real time and are not guaranteed or destined to be in specific places at specific times. Any manner of external factors can adversely affect wildlife activity and distribution. In a tiger reserve these run the gamut from a sudden cold snap, rain, wind or other change of weather, an animal census bringing pedestrians into a park, smoke from controlled burning to the presence of the firebreak control personnel. So don’t be disappointed if you have a slow day on safari in India or anywhere – it happens every now and then and it is nobody’s fault, least of all your guide’s. Your guiding team is doing everything possible to get you within sight of tigers quickly and regularly. When the animals are hard to find it’s just nature. 

By day three our luck turned and we had a great view of a female tiger crossing the road, after we had remained in essentially the same area for a good hour and a half. Finding tigers is equal measure skill and patience. The following morning we enjoyed a great sighting of a large pack of Indian wild dogs, numbering all of 22. Looking nothing like their African counterparts, the Indian wild dogs are quite similar in terms of size, family make-up and general behavior. It was a new mammal sighting for all of us. 

During our second swing through Kanha we had several more excellent tiger sightings:

  • By 7:30 one morning we had seen two different tigers, a large dominant male – Pattawallah – and a pregnant female MV3.  
  • A full day outing (special permit required) started with a bang. The same female tiger MV3 walked right by our vehicle, right at 6 am. Note to night owls: a tiger safari requires quite a bit of lark-like early morning activity. 
  • Observing the DJ9 female tiger with a guide who was familiar with her habits and preferences resulted in her being nicely lined up for photos twice in the span of 10 minutes. Had we been even three minutes away, we wouldn’t have seen anything. 
  • An afternoon game drive started on a promising note when we saw an older female tiger in a dam. Things got really interesting when the subadult daughter showed up and interaction ensued. Unfortunately the pair walked into thick cover so we had to abandon the pursuit. 
  • A series of alarm calls and seeing spotted deer running got us into just the right spot to see a female tiger emerge from the forest and walk right by the back of our vehicle. 
  • Later that morning we observed another female subadult on the edge of a dam taking a serious interest in some spotted deer. To the extent of mock stalking them but clearly with almost zero chance of success. By the end of our stay the tally was 14 sightings of 12 different tigers.

Kanha Jungle Lodge was every bit as delightful as on my first visit. The food and all round hospitality were impeccable with most meals served al fresco under the trees. The lodge layout is quite pleasing with a large covered central area and a separate drinks/cocktail lounge. As at the other lodges on the trip, the rooms were effectively air conditioned. The Kanha rooms also had plenty of space, showers with sufficient water pressure and more than ample packing space and lighting. 

On arrival – after a rather long drive – it was refreshing to take a nice walk to the river with co-manager Dimple Bhati, followed by dinner in the forest. A civet sighting was a pleasant surprise. 

Pench safari camp

From Kanha, another longish drive along yet another series of winding roads through a few small villages took us to Pench Tiger Reserve in the southern part of Madhya Pradesh State. It was just a few hours’ drive from Satpura National Park where I had started my safari a couple of weeks previously. 

Pench is predominantly teak forest habitat which by the late March timeframe had lost practically all of its leaves. This made for great visibility in much of the park. The Pench River runs along the western boundary of the park and a large reservoir seasonally backs up into a large part of the reserve, attracting good numbers of wildlife in the dry season. 

Over the course of a couple of days we had several tiger sightings including one young male walking through the woodland in really good light, a female on the edge of a small reservoir and a female tiger with three young cubs crossing a road. We also had a glimpse of a leopard, saw plenty of gaur, spotted deer, sambar deer, langur monkeys, rhesus macaque monkeys, jackals, forest hogs, and many interesting birds. Of those the best ones were the Malabar hornbills and several raptors including the spectacular honey buzzard, a real show stopper. 

Camp manager Priti and head guide P. P. and their team maintain an impeccable standard of hospitality, food and all round experience. 

Among our top Pench moments:

  • On a morning game drive: rushing towards a tiger sighting and flying over a small rise in the road, we surprised a young leopard right in the road. It crouched down and moved quickly into grass cover just off the road. A fleeting yet memorable encounter. 
  • A distant sighting but a first for the trip: a female tiger with three 8-month old cubs. We watched from across a small creek as first the female and then two of the cubs emerged from a thicket and walked out in the open along the embankment and down into a ditch, disappearing from view. 
  • From there we drove to a small lake where a female tiger was lying down in the water, almost totally submerged. A few minutes later she sat up, walked along the bank, got back into the water and swam a short distance to a grassy peninsula where she got out of the water again. 

From Pench it is a relatively easy drive to Nagpur from where we flew to Delhi. One last night at the very nice Andaz hotel at Delhi Airport worked very well. We had time to say our goodbyes, ordered room service pizza and gulab jamun and departed back to the USA via Istanbul the next morning.

Kaziranga National park – Assam 

Visiting Kaziranga National Park in the far flung eastern Indian state of Assam was another reminder of the extraordinary diversity and beauty of India. The Assamese people look different, speak a different language and I’m sure there are many other things unique to the area and culture which would take more than a few days to discover. I almost immediately discovered the wonderful tea of Assam and now drink it at any opportunity I can get, just not all day long. Due to its relatively high caffeine content, Assam tea is considered a morning beverage. 

One-horned rhinos and a golden tiger

Kaziranga is a beautiful and diverse park, with the far western zone being the most interesting of all, with mature riverine forest, patches of woodland, hills and some grassland. This part of the park, which we visited first, is known for regular sightings of gibbons. We heard them twice, but never saw them. 

Seeing one-horned rhinos in Kaziranga NP is as easy as falling off a log. With more than 2,600 rhinos in the park, getting some great views and good photographs are a sure thing. Beyond the rhinos it is a good park for buffalo and elephants as well as barasingha and hog deer. Hog deer, which replace spotted deer in this part of India, are abundant with as many as 40,000 present in the park. Tiger sightings seem to be hit and miss, more of the latter than the former. I did get lucky with a rare golden tiger though. There are only a handful of these in India so it was a definite highlight. Even though the view was relatively long distance, I could see it very well in my binocs. 

Kaziranga has a diverse landscape with significant open plains for grazers, there are patches of elephant grass and lots of water as the park encompasses the confluence of the Diphlu and the massive Brahmaputra river. With that much water around, it’s no surprise to have river otters around, and naturally a profusion of water birds including ducks, storks, egrets, herons and several waders. 

My very first game drive, just after I had been given an introductory chat and shown to my room, actually took place along the main road with dozens of giant trucks and tankers sweeping by. It was disconcerting at best, closer to downright scary at worst, with our driver-guide abruptly slowing down on the main road, when something interesting was seen or heard. Unlike me, everyone else there was clearly quite used to this peculiar setting for wildlife viewing.  

In addition to many one-horned rhinos, the drive into the western section delivered many excellent sightings, including Himalayan giant squirrel, hog deer, water buffalo, a 5-foot-long water monitor lizard and soft ground barasingha deer. As we were to witness elsewhere in the park over the next couple of days in both the central and eastern areas, there were abundant rhinos to be seen in the water and along the water’s edge. One of the one-horned rhinos even swam across a river. 

Kaziranga is a birding hotspot and over the course of just a few outings, we compiled quite a list of local and regional specialities such as Pallas’s fish eagle, spot-billed pelican, Asian openbill, greater adjutant, blacknecked stork, green-billed malkoha, grey-headed fish eagle, and Oriental pied hornbill.  

Kaziranga is very different and quite fascinating and it makes an excellent addition to a trip which includes mostly Madhya Pradesh tiger reserves. 

Diphlu River Lodge

Diphlu River Lodge itself was top notch, starting with a thorough introduction by the affable lodge manager. The food was consistently excellent with both Western and more traditional, regional Indian options available for all meals. The high tea which is served at 5 pm after the conclusion of game drives, likewise had a variety of intriguing food and snack options. On one of the days we enjoyed lunch outside under the trees on the bank of the Diphlu River.  

I was very fortunate to have Jugal assigned as my local guide; he was excellent, always enthusiastic and he also happened to know all the birds. As a result I added a bunch of life birds to my growing India list. If you’re headed to Kaziranga one of these days, be sure to request Jugal!

The road to Kaziranga 

The way to almost anywhere in India runs through some neighborhoods where everything would look a lot better with a fresh coat of paint. You’re not going to find much of that on the asphalt road leading out of Guwahati, the biggest city in India’s far eastern state of Assam. Rather, the road is lined with seedy hotels and bars, Tata car dealerships, bike shops, and grandiose signs touting hole-in-the-wall restaurants, also known as dhabas. Everywhere, there are weirdly designed buildings painted in unusual colors, at least from the perspective of an American visitor. Many of the buildings seemed to have been under construction for years. 

Driving along Route NH27 out of Guwahati when heading for Kaziranga National Park paints a rather bleak picture. There’s very little in the way of making things look ‘nice,’ as American eyes would see it. It’s utilitarian at best and clearly the inhabitants have priorities which do not include winning the yard of the month award. Dotted along the route are small general dealers with not a lot of inventory, to hardly any. Also the odd hardware store where paint is not a best seller. Just my guess. Occasionally, in marked contrast to their plain Jane neighbors, there would be an unusually large, extravagantly colored home or apartment block with an elaborate facade and balconies all round. Further east, close to Kaziranga itself, the views improve with vivid green tea plantations on the right hand side of the highway and floodplain on the left.  

One thing which Assam clearly has in common with much of the rest of India, is the crazy driving. Around every corner you’ll see a procession of heavy trucks and fuel tankers, one after another trundling down the highway and livening things up with their peculiar two-note honking sound. Many of these large trucks are colorfully festooned with ribbons and tassels and most of the drivers are Punjabis, or so I was told. Trucks by themselves are not necessarily a hazard. What makes the situation untenable are small pickup trucks and vans overtaking the large trucks in a manner which is often reckless and occasionally borderline suicidal. Obscured vision, blind rise, sharp corner ahead? No problem. Fortunately our professional drivers consistently adopted a defensive driving mode. 

Kaziranga timing issues

Diphlu River Lodge clearly has no control over it, but the fact that all of India has one time zone, coupled with the odd operating hours of the park itself, negatively affect the overall experience. For one thing, Assam and the other far eastern states should clearly have their own time zone. Drive from Mumbai to Assam, all the way west to east and your vehicle will have 1,750 more miles on the odometer at the end of the trip. On March 30 this year, the sun rose over Assam at 5:16 am; over Mumbai first light was at 6:35. A good two hours of daylight are essentially wasted in summer in Assam.

More importantly – and probably something that at least has a chance of being changed for the better – is the gate opening time at Kaziranga National Park. Right now the park opens for two elephant-back riding excursions at 5:00 am and 6:00 am respectively, and then only at 7:30 am for Jeep safaris. By 7:30 am the sun has already been up for well over two hours. The early morning ‘golden light’- so sought after by photographers – is practically gone by then. Bird and mammal activity is at a peak in the early morning hours right after sunrise and by 8:00 am it is already tailing off.  

So Jeep drives should ideally start at the same time as the first elephant-back safari at 5:00 am and certainly no later than 6:00 am. 

For information about our Fish Eagle Safaris March 2026 small group trip to India please contact Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com, or leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222 or at 713-467-5222.

Lodge photos courtesy Kanha Jungle Lodge and Diphlu River Lodge

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A Safari Trifecta at Laba Laba Camp, Western Seronera

A Safari Trifecta at Laba Laba Camp, Western Seronera

What is a safari trifecta, you might ask? Three desirable things, like any trifecta of course: an excellent guide, a great location off the beaten path and (cue the cymbals) lots of animals. Which is exactly what we found at the superb Laba Laba Migration camp, located in a quiet spot to the west of Seronera. Drivable distance to the Grumeti area, usually a wildlife hotspot.

What was it like driving from the southern part of Seronera to Laba Laba? Simply amazing. In this order we experienced several memorable sightings:

  • Five big cats in three trees close to the road, one with two leopards, two with lions. 
  • Two young male lions seen from a bridge. 
  • The wildebeest and zebra migration in full force, filling the plains below Laba Laba camp.
  • More lions on an afternoon drive: three young females and several cubs in the company of two older females. 

A lion – and cheetah – day

On our first full day at Laba Laba we experienced a simply phenomenal wildlife viewing day with one awesome sighting after another:

First up – 17 hyenas including several youngsters at their den. And then, right on each other’s heels, seven bat-eared foxes and three female lions with several cubs of different ages. As if we hadn’t had our quota of lions, walking by slowly came three different males, one moving right past us with hundreds of wildebeest staring him down. Not to be forgotten: two male cheetahs resting up in a shady spot. 

The afternoon game drive continued in the same vein with more bat-eared foxes, four more lions, three of them in their favorite tree and more great views of the migration.

Trouble in lion paradise

It is a known fact that in the world of lions, cubs lead a tenuous existence at best. If the pride – and particularly their mother- is thriving, so are they. If not, the cubs are usually the first ones to suffer from deprivation. Lion cubs face an uphill battle for survival, with a mortality rate of up to 80% before reaching the age of two. A devastating occurrence for young lion cubs is the death or displacement of the dominant male lion in a pride. When this happens, the cubs are often summarily killed by the new dominant male.

It’s not as if male lions are trying out for the role of Scarpia, the villainous police chief lusting after Tosca, in Verdi’s famous opera. While their behavior definitely reaches operatic intensity, there is no real malice intended. It’s simply instinctive behavior. When a lactating female lion loses her litter, she quickly goes back into oestrus, providing the new male with an opportunity to spread his genes. 

While this sounds pretty grim in theory, few of us ever witness something like it. Even after decades of going on safari all over Africa the phenomenon of infanticide among lions has hitherto remained a purely abstract construct in my and Kathy’s minds. Until this day. 

Rest assured, dear reader, that this is not going to end with dead baby lions. In which case – to be sure – this article would not have been written. So spoiler alert: the cubs got away. But not before the three of us (Kathy and myself and our fantastic guide Moses) had spent about an hour or so witnessing the most amazing scenes of conflict and aggression. A veritable window into the dark side of big cat behavior. 

We were rather blindsided about what was to follow, as the setting and the lion pride’s prospects painted an idyllic picture. The pride pretty much had the world – or at least this corner of the Serengeti – at their feet. An abundance of prey in the form of hundreds – even thousands – of migrating wildebeest and zebras. Plenty of water, trees to climb into to get away from the pesky insects and seemingly little in the way of imminent threats.  

Initially – once we had gotten into position alongside a tree-lined creek – everything was indeed lighthearted – all fun and games – and we spent a good 30 minutes watching the five young lion cubs playing. Mostly with each other and also with their mother. Running, jumping, biting, mock fighting and just generally having a whale of a time. If one can say that about lions.  

One enterprising young male cub kept trying to climb up a thick tree trunk. Digging his claws into the bark, he stood on his hind legs, pulled himself up, up and came tumbling down. More than once. This future leader had what it takes though, including persistence. After three failed attempts he tried again and voila  – success! Just like any young male of almost any species, he then proceeded to show off to all the other cubs and to whomever else was watching. Walking casually along several branches, imitating an adult male lording over the area, and clambering back down and up the tree more than once. In at least one of the photos I took while this was going on, a youngish adult male lion could be seen in the background. Unbeknownst to us – and the baby lions – this young male lion was going to end up being the villain of the piece. 

At first imperceptibly and then quite noticeably, the young male walked right up to the cubs. This precipitated instant conflict as the female lion rushed up to the scene, clearly anticipating an undesired outcome. She aggressively and repeatedly tried to drive him off. He would have none of it and stood his ground. Several times the enraged female snarled at the male, baring her fangs and clearly risking serious injury by trying to get him to leave.  

It was a chilling display of a mother trying to protect her offspring at almost any cost. Accompanied by much snarling and vocalizing. Momentarily one of the cubs ran right up to the male and we feared for the worst. Just about then the lioness must have somehow transmitted a warning sound to the cubs as initially four of them and then the last one darted off to our left, pausing a safe distance away. For now at least the cubs were safe. By this stage the other two lionesses had joined the fracas and were assisting the mother, having inserted themselves between the intruder and the cubs.

That is pretty much how we left it. It may be that the crisis was later averted, with the young male interloper being successfully driven off or at least realizing that his presence was not welcome. It may very well be that he did not have murderous intent and that he simply wanted to be accepted into the pride. Which is a possibility as he was apparently related in some way to the three dominant males. The rest of the story will play itself out without us being present or even knowing the end. Hopefully the final denouement was less tragic than the ending of Tosca where in true operatic tradition, of course, everybody dies.  

About the camp and our guide 

We knew right away that we were going to get along just fine with Moses, our Laba Laba guide with whom we’d be sharing a private vehicle for the next three days. For one thing, he listened to us, on the fly adjusting what had been planned as a full day outing to a considerably less ambitious activity. Also – he was enthusiastic, knowledgeable and struck just the right balance between being informative and entertaining. We know that requesting Moses as the guide for our guests yet to spend time at Laba Laba will be a good decision. 

As for Laba Laba camp itself, we looked hard and couldn’t find anything lacking. Superbly designed and equipped rooms with ample lighting, enough power points, lots of space to unpack your stuff, an effective low pressure shower and an outdoor (enclosed) tub which we put to good use. The large king size bed was about as comfortable as they come and at night the outside tent flaps could remain up – or down. Dial in your own level of adventure. 

Even though Laba Laba is a migration camp which moves three times per year to stay within striking distance of the herds, it puts many a permanent camp to shame in terms of its common areas, facilities, and food and beverage offerings. The French-inspired cooking was delightful and the head chef talked to us before every meal. Vegan or plant-based and other dietary requirements are handled with aplomb. The quality and care extended into the wine list as well, with a fine selection of South African and French wines on offer. 

The lack of exercise facilities at the vast majority of safari camps anywhere is an issue to many visitors. Not so at Laba Laba where you’ll find a decently equipped gym tent with a rowing machine, a step master, some barbells, a Swiss ball and proper exercise mats. They may want to add a skipping rope or two. 

The camp’s lounge area and bar has a museum-quality collection of artifacts, fossils and semi-precious stones, complete with a reference guide.  

Finally, and likely as important as anything, the location of the camp was ideal. Not super far as the crow flies from the heart of Seronera, but likely three times the distance by road. This discourages casual day trippers from making the plains below the camp their picnic lunch destination, resulting in far fewer vehicles being around than what one may expect the case to be. 

Call us at 713-467-5222 any time and leave a message with our answering service, or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com, for suggestions as to how and when one of the Laba Laba properties can be included with a Tanzania trip.  

Camp images courtesy Laba Migration Camp

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