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Destinations

Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

21st June 2024

Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

For me the most fun part of our business is designing itineraries. That’s where our 50 plus years of African experience and our team’s regular inspection and educational visits come into play. Rarely do we include a property which we haven’t been to ourselves and never is how often we include a property where guests may be forced into a middle seat on safari. 

Over the years we have gotten better at customizing itineraries to match a particular party’s interests and objectives. Without simply opting for the most expensive properties. 

So where would we go ourselves if we had to book an Africa trip this very minute, using mostly the properties which our Fish Eagle Safaris team checked out over the last couple of months? I asked the members of our Fish Eagle Safaris team to chime in.  

Here is what they had to say:

Lyndon: “I’d opt for a combination of Victoria Falls and Botswana and the trip would ideally include several days at Wilderness’ new Mababe concession camp, Mokete. On just one day there in late May we saw more animals in total, more different species and more rarities (how about aardvark, African wild cat and bat eared fox) than most visitors would see in a week on safari elsewhere.  

Consider taking a business class flight into Vic Falls, if only to get to the front of the line for the visa/immigration process which has lately proven to be quite challenging in terms of duration. Victoria Falls is a good starting point to shake off some jet lag and it acts as a buffer in case of any flight delays. It has many attractive accommodation options including Ilala Lodge, Pioneers, Palm River Hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel and Stanley & Livingstone Hotel. Be sure to include a guided tour of the falls and a jet boat sundowner cruise.  

From there I’d head to Hwange for three or ideally four nights at one of the Imvelo or Wilderness properties such as Camelthorn, Bomani, Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, or Davison’s, depending on budget. I have a soft spot for Hwange and to date this year it has been producing some great game viewing. We’ve previously mentioned that the country is facing what could end up being a serious drought. Game viewing should continue to be good but young and weak, older elephants will be facing an uphill battle towards the end of the dry season.  

Ideally, end your safari with at least six nights in Botswana split between two camps. 

I would put Mokete right at the top of the list for the remainder of this season and likely into the future. It’s a unique Botswana property; on my recent visit there it felt a lot like visiting the Serengeti, somehow relocated to southern Africa. Mokete is really a  ‘must visit’ from now until probably November – and will likely be excellent until then.

With Mokete, I would add a few days at perhaps Karangoma and – for a true Okavango Delta experience at an affordable price point – two nights at a water camp like Setari.    

Our group had a fabulous time during our all too short 2-night stay at the brand new Karangoma. It is an intimate camp with only 6 tents, each one with just the right amount of luxury. The scenery in the north-eastern Okavango Delta is idyllic and the remoteness is unparalleled with a 10-minute helicopter flight required to reach camp.

Setari is also remote and requires a boat ride of about 45 minutes from the airstrip to reach camp. Located in the main artery of the Okavango Delta it has permanent water year-round and is a different, more laid back experience than many other Botswana camps. The perfect way to end a successful trip.

Jason: “One of our most successful offerings has always been a combination of South Africa, Victoria Falls and either Zimbabwe or Botswana. If I could book a trip for a client right now, that’s where I would try to focus my efforts.

With a night in Johannesburg, or a few in Cape Town at the start of the trip to try and mitigate jet lag, the trip would kick off with four nights in Sabi Sand at one of our favorite properties. Mala Mala, Savanna, Sabi Sabi, Leopard Hills and Cheetah Plains all make for excellent choices with varying degrees of luxury and price points. The Sabi Sand is a game-rich Big 5 location and has always produced for our guests.

Next, a light air flight to Kruger’s MQP international airport would connect with a commercial flight to Victoria Falls. Ideally, spend two nights here at properties like The Victoria Falls Hotel, Ilala Lodge or Batonka Guest Lodge. We typically recommend a tour of the falls, a sunset cruise and some free time to explore Victoria Falls Town. You could also fill time with adventure activities like scenic helicopter flights, gorge swings, swimming in Devil’s Pool right on the edge of the falls (time of year dependent) or cultural activities in nearby villages.

The last three to six nights on this type of itinerary would be in Botswana’s Okavango Delta where things can slow down a little bit. With a huge number of amazing safari camp offerings, it’s difficult to decide just where to go. But you can count on our knowledge of the camps and areas to select a combination that would work best for your needs. 

Want to see the highest concentration of wildlife? In that case you’d definitely want to spend some time at Wilderness’ Chitabe/Chitabe Lediba camps. It’s been delivering simply brilliant game viewing with guests treated to mesmerizing experiences involving leopards, cheetahs, lions and African painted dogs, day after day.

Want to relax on the water in a boat or mokoro? Stick with some of the Okavango Delta camps (in flood season) like Wilderness’ Kwetsani, Little Tubu or Jao or Great Plains’ Okavango Explorers Camp. 

Want a combination of land and water activities? Machaba’s Gomoti Plains might be the answer. Even during droughts the Gomoti area has water year-round for mokoro rides and typically there is enough for boating as well. Plus it has plenty of open plains to explore on a traditional vehicle safari. On my recent trip, we found ourselves joining a hunt – bounding through the bush in an attempt to keep up with the effortlessly fast pace of a pack of painted dogs. Later that same morning we were on a mokoro attempting to photograph malachite kingfishers, African jacanas and red lechwe antelopes.

Bert:  We’ve always advised prospective travelers to Africa to  spend more time in fewer areas. Based on my experiences on our most recent trip I think visitors would do well to extend that principle into their day-to-day activities on safari. Ideally by including the services of a private guide and vehicle on at least part of their trip. 

This makes it possible to slow down game drives in order to spend less time actually driving, and more time experiencing. More time to observe, to record, and to learn.  Focusing on the details of specific sightings and not just bouncing around from animal to animal. 

Not trying to check everything off your list often results in unexpected but welcome developments. Mostly in the way of seeing something much more interesting than what you started off with.

Patience and perseverance almost always pays off in the wilderness. We’ve had painted dogs walk into an otherwise blah sighting, we’ve seen ‘stationary cheetah’ turn into ‘running cheetah on the hunt,’ and we’ve experienced baby leopards suddenly and unexpectedly join their mom, right in front of us.   

Where would I go right now, looking mostly at the properties which Kathy and I recently visited in East Africa? I would book my Kenya Airways non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi, spend a couple of days in Nairobi (for a morning game drive in Nairobi National Park and a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage) and then head to either Lewa or Laikipia for 4 nights. Few other places in East Africa or the rest of the continent for that matter, can match properties like Lewa Wilderness or Kicheche Laikipia in terms of diversity. They have all the usual plains game and the big cats, and on top of that a trio of superb near-endemics in the way of Grevy’s Zebra, reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx.  Plus healthy numbers of both black and white rhinos with their horns intact. 

And then I’d head straight to the Masai Mara, splitting my time there between a property in one of the conservancies to the north of the Mara, and ending with a few days in the Mara Triangle, in the north of the park. These two areas make a great combination, melding the freedom to go off-road inside the conservancy and the ability to drive at night, with the amazing grandeur and spectacle of the Mara Triangle. Inch for inch it is about as fascinating and rewarding an area as one could visit anywhere in Africa. The Mara Triangle is also one of Kenya’s most reliable areas to experience the great migration, within striking distance of several known crossing points. 

Kathy: On our recent visit to Kenya, I was amazed by the abundance of wildlife in three of the private conservancies to the north of the Masai Mara, namely Naboisho, Mara North and Lemek. Almost everywhere we looked, there were zebras in their hundreds. Plus masses of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, topis, eland, buffaloes (some huge herds!), giraffes (so many!), tons of wildebeest, hippos wherever there was water,  elephants – and several prides of lions.  

I would recommend to prospective travelers to Africa to spend up to a week or so in the Masai Mara, split between two of the conservancies or by including an additional few days in a camp which does its game drives in the Mara Triangle, such as Olonana, Little Governors, or AndBeyond Bateleur Camp.   

In addition to the Mara, Kenya has several other superb safari destinations; call or email us and a member of the team will be happy to talk to you about Tsavo or Amboseli, Lewa, Meru or Samburu. We know them all really well and can give you just the right advice as to how they can fit in with a trip to the Mara.  

For now, I will concentrate on the three properties which we visited in the conservancies. Any one of these would be an ideal ‘anchor’ property for a Kenya safari. 

Saruni Leopard Hill – Mara Naboisho Conservancy

The female management team at Leopard Hill is very accommodating and they want to insure your comfort and enjoyment at their lovely little camp. The communal area is attached to the dining area and you will enjoy the view – beautiful fig trees surrounded by 3 waterholes. The dining/communal area is on a platform and there are steps leading to a small area where guests congregate around a small bonfire in the evenings.  

This camp has 6 tents. We were in tent #3. I really liked the generous size and layout of the tents. The rooms also have a skylight which you can open up at night to ‘sleep under the stars.’ Not advisable during the rainy season though. The rooms have a king-size bed, great pillows, desk, daybed/couch, double sinks and separate shower and toilet as well as an outdoor shower. Plenty of room for your gear and a great patio overlooking the game reserve. The rooms are spaced far enough apart for privacy. They also have a honeymoon tent with a nice lounge and a family tent – two tents next to each other with doors (instead of zippers) suitable for a family of 4 

A bonus at Leopard Hill is a complimentary 30-minute back and neck massage – don’t pass this up! The spa tent is in a nice, quiet area and the masseur is a man named Viki Geel who has 18 years’ experience. He is excellent! Viki also offers yoga and stretching. I am so glad I took advantage of this and if I had more time, I certainly would have spent more time at the Leopard Hill Spa!

We had a ‘surprise’ romantic dinner on our patio the second night – very well done.

Wake up – coffee/tea are brought to your room.

We had great game viewing and a bonus here – and in the other conservancies – is the off-roading which makes a big difference if you want to pull up close to a lioness with her cubs hidden in the bushes. As we did.  

Kicheche Camp:  Mara North Conservancy, Masai Mara

Andrew Obaga is the manager at Kicheche Mara and he and his very competent staff know how to make you feel comfortable and right at home. One is introduced to the camp after walking over a small bridge and up a short hill. At the top of the hill is an amazing and unexpected sight – a beautiful and well-maintained mowed lawn with communal dining and photography tents. Early the next morning there was a little family of three tiny dik-dik antelope on the edge of the lawn; humans are not the only ones who find it appealing. 

The camp: the first communal tent is a photographer’s dream tent offering the photographer access to WIFI, computers and more. The photographer’s tent has just about everything needed for safari photographers – a real bonus in the bush! Right next door is a restroom. Walk a few more feet and you will find the dining tent with a lovely patio – indoor/outdoor dining. Two more communal tents with nice lounges, bars and two more tented restrooms complete the communal area.

Kicheche Mara has a total of 10 guest tents including a family tent. They can make any of the tents into a triple. For example if you want to travel with your mom and sister – they would be happy to put 3 adults in one tent – no problem! The pathway to each tent is clearly labeled using Swahili animal names for the tents. We were in Punda Milia (zebra). Arriving at our tent, the main power switch is a handy pull-string at the front of the tent opening. The tents are very spacious and well-appointed with a daybed, a king-sized bed, desk, open closet for all your items, a bathroom with a separate toilet, two sinks and a nice shower. We had a comfy patio with chairs and a small table so we could watch for any activity at the river. 

Kicheche is a fabulous camp and well worth a 3-night visit. Tents on our side were:  Kiboko, Punda Milia, Topi, and Kanga. They are all a short walk to the main area. Andrew told us the ‘honeymoon tent’ is located quite a bit further from the main area. Wake up – coffee/tea is brought to your room.

The food was excellent at Kicheche. After each meal the chef checked on us to make sure we were satisfied.

As was the case at the other camps in the conservancies, game viewing at Kicheche Mara commenced right out of camp. Twice, driving into and out of the camp, there were three elephant bulls with huge tusks to be seen hanging out in a marshy area close to camp; apparently they spend much of the dry season in that spot.  

Hemingways Ol Seki Mara:  Naboisho Conservancy, Masai Mara

Hemingway’s Ol Seki camp in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Masai Mara represents complete luxury on safari. The highly accomplished manager, Debbie Paul, gave us a very warm welcome – she had clearly read the guest information form – and we felt like old friends right away. Debbie took us to our room, #5, which was the closest to the lodge. The rooms are equipped with everything you will need including an indoor and outdoor shower, a gorgeous bathtub – quite a luxury on safari – and a separate/private toilet. The room has a king-size bed, a day bed and desk and a spacious wrap around patio perfect for game viewing from your room. I really liked their early morning wake-up – complete with coffee/tea and a to-go insulated mug to take on your morning game drive. You don’t want to waste any time in the mornings, and this was an added bonus.

The dining area has views of the water hole and game viewing area which can be great entertainment while dining or enjoying the communal area. The lounge and bar are attached to the dining area and they overlook a tempting pool and deck with lounge chairs and umbrellas – it’s really hard to beat this view. Relaxing in the dining area or pool area and game viewing at the same time – don’t forget your binoculars.

If you are traveling with your family, you may want to consider the Simba or Chui Suites. Ideal for parties of around 4 to 6, they are exclusive use with a private vehicle and chef, a pool and in a beautiful setting.

At Ol Seki we enjoyed great food and service and a great spa – reasonable treatment prices too. Facials and massages are offered – a wonderful way to relax during the siesta time before the afternoon game drive. 

You won’t want to leave Ol Seki!

Saruni Wild – Lemek Conservancy, Masai Mara

One more Mara property which we checked out but did not overnight at, was Saruni Wild in the Lemek Conservancy. Saruni Wild is a beautiful and welcoming classic African bush camp. This small, tented camp has a great location in the Lemek Conservancy, right on the edge of the Mara North Conservancy, with access to both for game drives. What we both liked was the instant access to several excellent game viewing areas in the Mara. On our drive from Saruni Wild, we found a female cheetah and we were told that lions had been spotted in the area just the previous day.  

Saruni Wild has an ideal mix of features which will make it easy to send our guests there in future. Effective, hands-on management, friendly staff and well-designed, well-maintained common areas and tents. All tents have the same basic layout – a king-sized bed, desk, open closet, double sinks, separate toilet and shower area.  Tents are placed far enough away for great privacy. There is no age limit for this camp.

Contact us for more information

Our Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. team has visited various Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania properties over the last couple of months. Coming up soon: educational trips to Madagascar and Mozambique. We’d love to help you arrange your first or next trip to Africa to one of these or several other African destinations. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Safari Lodge of the Month: Xigera

21st May 2024

Safari Lodge of the Month: Xigera

Until not too long ago, Xigera Safari Lodge in northern Botswana’s Okavango Delta was like a young artist just breaking into the crowded and hugely competitive pop music arena. Brilliant at times and with loads of talent but just not quite there yet. An opening act at best, and sometimes the ticket you settled for when all the other concerts were sold out. 

No more. Architect Anton De Kock and the Tollman family have turned this one-time Cinderella into a superstar, contending for the highest accolades one could possibly bestow in the panoply of elite safari lodge.  

Xigera Safari Camp is currently and will likely remain – for the foreseeable future – the most impressive iteration of a safari lodge in Africa. At least that we know of. Twelve ultra-deluxe suites radiate out from a sumptuous central dining and lounge area, all elevated on a three meter high boardwalk.  

The rooms are nothing short of gargantuan in size; ours (#2) had a huge lounge area with large plate glass windows and doors with pretty views over the floodplain. The  large bedroom with a king size bed sported equally good views. The entire bedroom can be closed off by a simple but effective, electrically operated sliding mosquito net.  To the rear of the room, there’s a large walk-in closet with a make-up desk and magnifying mirror. The room has tons of storage space and clothes hanging space. And yes, there is a hair dryer.  

The cuisine at Xigera

During a recent visit to Xigera we found the food to be of the highest standard throughout, starting with lunch on our day of arrival. It was fun and exciting with  items like peri-peri wings, lamb sliders and a classic caesar salad with anchovies. Dinner was a multi-course affair, served outside in the boma under the African night sky. Does food taste better outside? Maybe not, but combining cutting-edge cuisine with fire and coals, smoke and heat, is never a bad idea. All the more so in the hands of the Xigera culinary team who does magical things with a fine lamb loin chop or a perfectly done portion of boerewors, firm to the bite but never tough, juicy and with a characteristic but understated note of coriander. Delicious served with plain mealiepap, known as sadza, ugali and nshima elsewhere in Africa. 

It ended up being an enchanted evening for guests and staff alike. Several of the guests were introduced to African dishes for the first time, much to their delight. A spirited dancing and singing performance by staff members concluded the night. 

The team was back at it quite early the next morning over breakfast. The Xigera eggs Benedict, with salmon, was particularly good and delicate, with a perfect Hollandaise sauce.  

Dinner that night was an outstanding 6-course tasting menu, a novel and sophisticated take on the traditional boma dinner. It retained the fire, coals and smoke of the boma, as well as the social nature, with guests, chef, and sommelier around a quadrangular outside area, with 3 small hibachi cookers providing the coals. 

Taking us through the first five courses, assistant chef Ollie Notes provided background and context to each dish. 

These included:

  • A smoked mozzarella with tomato relish and basil pesto
  • Grilled butternut with herb salt and local honey over a bed of butternut mousse
  • Salmon tostada with avocado wrapped in a freshly made corn tortilla
  • Twice-baked potato with onion and chevre and fresh goat cheese.
  • Grilled onion with a Gorgonzola reduction

Chef Branea from Cape Town put the finishing touches to the delectable ice cream dessert.  

Game viewing at Xigera

We’ve been on quite a few game drives in the Xigera area over the years and we have seen a definite uptrend. On our previous visit there we had our best view yet of a sitatunga on a mokoro outing, we bumped into some lions and we got some great leopard photos as well. 

This time, more of the same. Right off the bat, Xigera surprised with a sighting of two good-sized male lions, in their prime, on a small island not far from the lodge. Not too far away – three female lions – all part of the same pride.  

Early mornings are when you want to be on safari in Botswana. That’s when some of the cats are still active as we found out on the following morning’s drive. There was a lot going on with a coalition of two young male lions – just coming into their prime – having just recently moved into the Xigera area at the time.

On this day, they were making no secret of their presence, loudly proclaiming being around with roaring – all while scent-marking everywhere. Of the two, the dominant male lion seemed to be keen to seek out the three females we had seen the previous day. That action would no doubt have serious consequences as the pair of dominant males would have been forced to react. That didn’t happen that day.

We left the two interlopers and located the dominant brothers who had also been roaring earlier that morning. They were clearly aware of the threat to their authority but were by no means cowed or nervous. They seemed very much at ease and in fact dozed off after they had found a shady spot to their liking.

What was clear at the time was that the lion pride dynamics at Xigera were poised for a sea change and guests at Xigera may be in for some surprising developments and titanic battles should the two younger males decide to take on the older, bigger, dominant males for control of the pride.

While we concentrated on the lion dynamics during the course of our stay, it became clear that the hit and miss game viewing which had characterized Xigera back in the day had matured. There was plenty of general plains game around in the way of zebras, lechwe, giraffes and kudus. Plus some solitary elephant bulls and a few small breeding herds. 

Combining Xigera with other Botswana camps

How does one ideally combine Xigera with other Botswana properties? We posed the question to Red Carnations’ Sally Gray who had an elegant and creative suggestion. Combine Xigera with Natural Selections’ Jacks Camp and Wilderness’ Mombo. 

Here is Sally’s take on the unique appeal of each of these properties and how they complement each other to create a perfect safari combination. One more piece of good advice from her:  “Be sure to end your stay at Xigera!”

Jack’s Camp

  • As with all lodges of this caliber – location is pivotal. Jack’s location is incredible – overlooking the Makgadikgadi pans.
  • Completely different ecosystem and landscape compared with anywhere else in Botswana.
  • Home to several unusual species of game, largely endemic to this region, such as brown hyena, black-maned lions, aardvark, oryx and springbok.
  • The experience of being able to sleep out in the salt pans – I have done this – possibly the best experience I have ever had.
  • Accompany the local San people on one of their bush walks – learning the secrets to their survival in such a harsh environment.
  • This area is also the home to one of the largest migrations of zebras in Africa – truly remarkable.
  • Similarly run to Xigera – Jack’s is family owned and run by Ralph Bousfield, who is hugely respected in the safari industry.
  • Jack’s Camp works well with Xigera as the two properties deliver a completely different experience.
  • Jack’s offers a wide variety of activities, so a 3-night stay is recommended.

Mombo

  • Iconic location on Chief’s Island in the Moremi Game Reserve.
  • It’s not for nothing that Mombo is known as the place of plenty – it is a game-viewing delight.
  • Made famous by the leopard named Legadema – beautifully captured in the wildlife documentary Eye of the Leopard. Her grandchildren and great-grandchildren are still at Mombo.
  • Dominated by cats, particularly lions and leopards.
  • Mombo offers game drives only, so it needs to be combined with another lodge for guests to get the full Botswana experience.
  • Mombo has a “hide” experience which allows you to get up and close with the animals.

Xigera Safari Lodge

  • Refurbished and revamped and opened in 2021.
  • 12 Suite lodge.
  • Fully air-conditioned which is a rarity in the Okavango Delta. Most of the other lodges have an airflow over the beds.
  • Xigera has as many as five different activities daily – four of them all year. Daily: game drives, mekoro outings, fishing, walking;  seasonal: boating.
  • A variety of activities calls for a longer stay – as there is so much more to experience.
  • Xigera is among the most sustainable lodges in Botswana – being 95% off the grid and having a sophisticated recycling program.
  • Incredible game experience. Intriguing species such as the rare African painted dog and cheetah have moved back into the region after a shift in the tectonic plates in Botswana in 2017.  This very minor earthquake has changed the face of this part of the Okavango Delta
  • Food is described as being “luscious.” All from local farmers supported by Xigera’s “Make Travel Matter” initiatives.

When you are ready to embark on what may very well be the ultimate safari combining Jack’s Camp, Mombo and Xigera Safari Lodge – give us a call at 1-800-513-5222 or email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.   

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A Week in Hwange, Zimbabwe

21st May 2024

A Week in Hwange, Zimbabwe

When six inches of rain fell in less than 36 hours in Northern Hwange recently, it likely saved the lives of hundreds of vulnerable elephants, including many youngsters, from an untimely early death.  

That much rain in such a short time also has a significantly negative impact on game viewing. Literally from one day to the next, throngs of elephants and other animals at water holes vanish. Gone are the dramatic, dust-laden scenes with elephants vying for access to dwindling water. Gone are many of the chances for seeing predators stalking weakened prey animals. 

What to do? Keeping guests happy under those circumstances is why we rely so heavily on a handful of Africa-based partners. In this case Zimbabwe’s Imvelo Safaris, recently approved as a Safari Pros industry partner. 

Without skipping a beat, Imvelo amended the itinerary for some Fish Eagle Safaris guests in Hwange at the time. Instead of spending three nights in the rain-affected area around Nehimba, our guests were moved to Imvelo’s flagship property Camelthorn in the south. A private vehicle and guide were included at no additional cost. 

The results? Pretty spectacular. Over the course of their week in southern Hwange – with a strong professional guide in the person of Eric in charge – the guests experienced many excellent sightings. 

Here are the highlights, in the guest’s own words:

-Impalas and wildebeests running hard in the distance. Drove up to find a pack of 13 wild dogs inhaling an impala. Watched for over an hour as other scavengers arrived. Couldn’t leave until we saw that the jackals got something, and then watched one jackal leap up into the air and bite a vulture!

-Teenage elephant having a great mud wallow

-Two skinny cheetah brothers attempting a wildebeest chase

-An amazing walking safari to approach an elephant. Got within 20 feet before he knew we were there, then the guide had to whistle and clap his hands to get his attention. Heart-thumping!

-Two fat cheetah brothers napping in the shade. One got up to reposition and farted for us…we could ALL smell it!

-A lioness nursing her three cubs with her wildebeest catch stashed in the thicket

-Went back the next day to check on the lioness as she was lounging near her catch, and the two cheetah brothers came sniffing by. We were all very tense waiting to see what would happen…she leapt out of the thicket and it was cheetah scatter!

– Six younger elephants had a pool party at one of the watering holes, lots of swimming and splashing

-Large male lion guarding his kill in the thicket near a watering hole, could tell it was a young elephant! We had our nervous lunch nearby…

-A pride of four lions scattering a tower of giraffes

-Loved watching dung beetles rolling their dung balls

-Watched a snake and gecko battle it out…the snake won

Our guide Eric was the best! He provided tons of information, was great at meeting our needs and giving us great experiences.”

This guest experience underscores three crucial things we have come to recognize over the years as being essential to a good safari:

A good guide, someone to have your back and spending more time in fewer locations. 

That’s a short sentence with few words but they reach deeply into the essence of the African safari experience. 

A good guide

A competent guide interprets, amplifies and illuminates what you are seeing around you, adds his or her own perspective based on what may very well be decades of guiding. A good  guide anticipates and entertains. Gets you into just the right spot for a photo, makes you think and makes you laugh. They are a rare breed. 

Guides come and go and it is not always possible to request specific ones. Who to ask for? Perhaps the most energetic, enthusiastic member of the team, the one who is always first out and last back. Which is indicative of a love of one’s profession, usually accompanied by passion and just a little bit of a competitive instinct. All the better to get you out there in search of wonderful wilderness experiences.

Someone to have your back

Someone to have your back is probably the most overlooked aspect of safari travel due to the near ubiquitous electronic connectivity which we all enjoy nowadays. It’s almost as if you have a team at your disposal 24-7, irrespective of your or their physical location. 

Which is true most of the time but when the chips are down you need a reliable in-country back-up network. A team of professionals who can change you from one hotel to another if that is what it takes to salvage a trip. Who can quickly and effectively mobilize emergency health resources to come to your aid in a crisis.. 

I experienced this first hand just 10 days ago at the start of our Tanzania trip, in Arusha. I was sick as a dog. An upper respiratory infection had me by the throat – and lungs – and things were looking grim. That’s when someone having your back in Africa saved the day. All it took was a brief email to Nomad Tanzania, our destination management company partner – and literally 10 minutes later I was on a phone consultation with an MD. Not an hour later several medications were dropped off by a courier on a bike. 

Even with the best will in the world, it is not possible to adequately deliver these services remotely. If you travel with Fish Eagle Safaris you can rely on solid in-country support and you will never be left to fend for yourself. 

Spending more time in fewer locations 

Our recent Hwange guests did not plan on spending an entire week in the southern Hwange area. Yet when circumstances beyond anyone’s control resulted in exactly that, it turned out surprisingly well. 

Spending more time in fewer areas also affects the pace of a trip. Making it less rushed and more in keeping with the ambiance of a wilderness experience. With more time in an area you will be able to enjoy all or most of the available activities and find out what makes an area special or different. Spend three or four nights at a camp and invariably you will connect better with your guide(s) and camp staff and management. Which makes for a more meaningful and memorable trip.  

Haven’t been on a trip to Africa recently? Put us to the test and see for yourself what a difference it might make to work with us. Give us a call at 1 800 513 5222 during business hours Monday to Friday CDT or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com 

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Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route – Trip Report

7th April 2024

Kilimanjaro Lemosho Route – Trip Report

Is climbing Kilimanjaro easy? I had posed this question to myself once or twice before in the aftermath of previous Kili climbs, which included the Machame, Rongai and Marangu routes. My answer hasn’t changed. You might be lulled into thinking that it is so by day five on several of the major routes. By which time you’ve successfully negotiated a few steep and sometimes rocky uphill stretches, a couple of glacial valleys and notably, the Barranco Wall. And you’ve mastered some long, grinding hikes at altitude. All in all, you’re thinking,  this is not going to be as hard as you had imagined it might be. Provided of course, that  you’re not suffering too badly from the effects of altitude sickness, you’re sleeping ok and not overly fatigued.  

And then everything changes. Somewhere between leaving base camp around midnight on summit day and getting down to the camp where you will be spending your last night on the mountain it becomes decidedly ‘not easy’. This is when you find out that Kilimanjaro is not a stroll in the park. In fact, most climbers are stretched to the very extreme of their limits over the span of about 14 hours, starting around midnight on summit day, which lasts well into the afternoon of the following day.  

My most recent and likely penultimate attempt to hike Kili, with just Umbwe to go to make it a nice round ‘5’ number, was the Lemosho Route in February 2023. It is the longest of the popular tourist routes and the one with the highest success ratio. The reason being self-evident: more time spent on the mountain at altitude prior to summit day leads to better acclimatization which leads to a less fatigued, more energized summit attempt.    

Just like the previous three times I had set out on a Kilimanjaro climb, day one on the Lemosho Route started with a drive from your Moshe or Arusha hotel. From where we spent the night, it was a 3-hour drive to the Londorossi Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. The previous afternoon we had completed some formalities with the help of our lead guide Joseph Majuto, which meant that on our first day on the mountain we mostly had to wait in a tourist shelter with a lunch box, eating cookies and drinking boxed fruit juices. All while eyeing the other small groups of climbers doing the same thing. It takes longer than you might think – to get the permits ready – but you’ve got all day to get to the first campsite so no huge rush. Have another cookie.  

Thu 17 Feb:  Londorossi Gate to Big Tree – a rainforest stroll

Just as we were setting off, even before we had emerged from the cover of the shelter, some light and then intermittently heavy rain started to fall. An early opportunity for our three team members to put our rain gear to the test. My new Arcteryx Atom AR  shell handled the moisture admirably, although it was warmer than I had anticipated, with a good head of steam developing inside the jacket as we walked steadily uphill in moderately warm temperatures. My two team members were uber fit marathon runners and despite having done this a few times previously, I knew that I would have to bring my A-game to hang with the two women. 

The 7 km (just over 4 miles) hike from Londorossi Gate to the Mti Mkubwa campsite – better known as Big Tree – traverses a beautiful, dense, rainforest with majestic trees towering over the dense undergrowth, consisting of a profusion of vines, shrubs and other leafy plants. On one of the previous climbs, this is where our party got absolutely drenched in a torrential rainfall storm. Which is why you need to be wearing proper, waterproof boots for any Kilimanjaro climb.  

We arrived at the Big Tree campsite only to find that a surprisingly large number of tents had already been erected among the trees in a level area. I estimated that there were close to 50 tents spaced out in the woods. We dropped our stuff inside the tent and enjoyed some tea and popcorn while we waited for dinner. As if we hadn’t had enough of walking, we also took a stroll through the campsite. Then it was time for dinner: fish, potato croquettes, beans, a mixed salad and vegetable ‘sauce’. Pretty good. After doing the usual health questions (are you feeling dizzy, do you have a headache or difficulty breathing and a few others) and passing the pulse oximeter ‘test’ with flying colors, we called it a day. Nightlife? No such thing. Take your Kindle or a couple of books and rechargeable solar light.  

Fri 18 Feb:  Big Tree to Shira 1 – the hills get steep  and the rain intensifies 

We were up at 6:00 am for breakfast at 7:00 am, and departed just after 8:00 am. Even just three people can be slow getting ready, clearly. Right out of camp we encountered the first of two hills on the way. The first one was quite steep, followed by a fairly steep descent. The second hill seemed endless and presented us with the first real test on the hike. There wasn’t much in the way of switchbacks either, it was just up, up, up. Conditions were still quite warm and we were all sweating as we exited the rainforest, entering moorland habitat about an hour or so into the hike.  

From that point, it took at least another hour of steep uphill hiking over uneven terrain until we reached the crest of the ridge. From there the trail stretched along a relatively even area for the next 40 minutes or so.  

By now it had gotten really cold and a steady rain had started to come down. We had our rain gear on so we were ok but it was still pretty miserable and all three of us suffered from extremely cold hands.  

We reached Shira 1 campsite at just about 1:40 pm, cold and exhausted, and a cup of hot tea never tasted better. Ten minutes later, our assistant Davis served lunch, which consisted of spaghetti with a chicken sauce, fresh corn, and a pea, onion and tomato sauce. We tucked in and put a serious dent in the spaghetti. From there conditions improved considerably as the rain eventually abated and we enjoyed a couple of hours of partial sunshine.  

We spent some time in the mess tent where we warmed our frozen fingers. Taking a  walk through the campsite, we observed a Summits tent and met a couple of affable climbers from the UK, as well as a couple from Chapel Hill, NC. We took some photographs. Around 6:00 pm, hot water was delivered to the tent in a small basin for a sponge bath. Dinner was at 7:00 pm: rice, black beans and tomato sauce and fresh fruit. Again, it was early to bed, and I slept a solid 9 hours. That, in summary, is pretty much the nightly routine on a Kili climb, until summit day.

Sat 19 Feb – Shira 1 to Shira 2 – More rain, getting pelted in a sleet storm

To this point, this hike along the Lemosho Route was characterized by just one thing: rain. It rained every day without fail. Usually starting at around 11:00 am and invariably accompanied by heavy thunder. Fortunately, the thunder stayed high with no lighting bolts reaching the ground. At least not in our vicinity.  

Rain, hiking and camping in the open are not a good mix. Over the course of several days the dampness gets into almost everything. By day three the base of our tents was damp and some of the Goretex clothing items were starting to fail to repel the moisture.

More than that, the rain and sleet also impacted our activities and the day to day routine. Everything becomes more difficult and tedious when it is wet and muddy. Starting with simple things like getting in and out of the tents. Crouching down to duck into and out of the low opening with mud everywhere is annoying at the best of times, and downright frustrating in the wet.

The hiking is also substantially impacted by long periods of rain and sleet. It slows everything down, from having to stop repeatedly to add rain gear, to slowing down over wet terrain, having to dodge puddles and muddy spots, and having to be even more deliberate than usual traversing over wet rock.   

Another downside of chronically overcast weather: fewer opportunities to experience the scenery, which is one of the hallmarks of the Lemosho Route. We did have some good views of the Shira Plateau from Shira 1 camp, and great views of Kibo peak at the end of day 2 from Shira 1 and also from Shira 2. The second time around we could clearly see just how much more snow had accumulated in the previous 24 hours.

The hike from Shira 1 to 2 is about 10 km (6 miles) in distance and took us just about 4 hours, with a few rest stops, including one to don our rain gear.  

It didn’t only rain a lot. For the better part of 40 minutes plus we were in a heavy sleet storm, with icicles pelting us on the head. We were apprehensive about encountering a proper hail storm when good protection would have been impossible to find. Things are slightly grim when ‘just icicles’ is the good news.  

After an afternoon nap, we did a little walkabout, took a few more pictures and sat down for dinner at 6:30 pm. Homemade french fries, beef kabobs, and a bean stew, oranges and pineapple. And soup. We could not complain about the food. Earlier –  for lunch – we had veggie sandwiches, the Kili cook’s tasty take on pizza and a hot soup as a starter. Incidentally, despite all the 45 miles or so of hiking, I don’t think any one of us lost much weight. No surprise there.  

By nightfall – 8:oo pm – the sky had cleared and we could admire the starlit night sky, with the Milky Way and Orion being prominent.

Sun 20 Feb:  Shira 2 to Barranco – via Lava Tower at 15,000 feet above sea level

This was the longest day of the route so far, all of 7 hours and 20 minutes or so, from Shira 2 camp to Barranco Camp. How long and how tough a day was it? Somewhat like doing one of Colorado’s 14,000 foot peaks, all the way up and all the way down in just one day. We started at just before 8:00 am, after an eventful night. At around 2:00 am a heavy rainstorm moved across our campsite. It wasn’t brief and it was quite intense, adding to our existing concerns about dampness getting into our ground mattresses and potentially into our sleeping bags. To some degree it did, but not as badly as we had feared.

At 6:30 am, the sun was shining and it would continue to do so intermittently until about 1:00 pm when we reached Lava Tower at 15,000 feet above sea level. This was a new altitude record for two of the three of us.  

From the Lava Tower – which was the high point on the day’s hike – it was mostly downhill all the way to Barranco. Downhill doesn’t always translate to easy. It was heavy going pretty much all the way with rocks and boulders and steps up and steps down all the way. The area was still soaked from the previous day’s heavy precipitation, which made the footing slippery at times, and unpredictable.

The hike from Shira 2 to Lava Tower was no walk in the park either. Practically just meters out of camp, the rocky path started heading up and for the next two hours we walked steadily uphill, gaining considerable altitude. This portion of the hike culminates in a short ravine where we crested the hill, only to be confronted with more uphill in front.

At the sign pointing to Meyer’s Hut to the west we took a break, as did a few other hikers from Shira 2 who were enjoying a sitdown cup of tea. From there the trail winds steadily upward, across a saddle of sorts, and then links up with the Machame Trail a little further on.

Once the huge Lava Tower rocky outcrops came fully into view, we became more energized, our strength and energy having started to wane quite a bit. Understandably so, as at 15,000 feet the thin air does not deliver nearly as much oxygen as at sea level.  

We enjoyed a packed lunch at Lava Tower, regained our strength and then set off for Barranco.

Dinner tonight: cheesy potatoes, elbow pasta and a white bean stew. Served with the Kili version of ‘vetkoek’ (deep fried fritters), and some fresh pineapple. As always, the guides do their best to urge you on to eat more – nutrition is all-important, as is hydration. 

Mon 21 Feb:  Crossing the Barranco Wall to Karanga Camp

Late the previous day, we had looked across the campsite to the imposing, even somewhat intimidating Barranco Wall. If you take the Lemosho, Machame, or Umbwe route up Kilimanjaro, the only way to the top involves clambering up the Barranco Wall. The 900-foot cliff which towers over Barranco Camp, presents quite a challenge to the average hiker, with two particularly nerve-wracking spots. Fortunately, they are quite early in the ascent and within minutes of each other. The first one involves putting your weight on your left leg and swinging the right leg around to a rocky ledge. The other one is the well-known ‘kissing rock’ where you literally hug a big round rock as you try to stop yourself from toppling over backwards. Fortunately there’s always a guide close by to provide support.

From there on, the climb continues up steeply, with several spots where both hands and feet are needed to negotiate the rocks. Clambering in other words. With some stops for water and to let porters by, it took us a good two hours to make it to the top, where there were some nice views of Mt. Meru in the distance.  

From the top of the Barranco Wall it is another 2 hours to the next camp, Karanga, which overlooks a pretty valley.  

About an hour or so out of Karanga, when hikers first see the camp, it appears to be no more than a 20 minute hike away. Reality sets in when you advance another 200 meters or so, and the full picture becomes clear.  Before reaching camp, you have to hike down a steep, rocky, and in places, wet and muddy path, all the way down to a clear mountain stream, only to start up a steep, equally rocky path on the other side of the ravine. On the down side, there are many potentially dangerous spots where even a slight mistake, misjudgement, or a small lapse in concentration could have dire consequences. A fall could easily result in a serious injury, which would get you a one way ticket down the mountain in what would likely be an arduous and lengthy extraction process.

So my best advice is to prepare properly for the climb with significant attention to single leg strength and balance. Use your walking sticks, maintain a safe (slow) pace and pay close attention to where you plant your feet. Above all, never stray off the main trail for whatever reason. Short cuts or detours to get around slower hikes are to be avoided altogether. That is where accidents happen.  

Karanga camp is set on a slope with Kibo prominent to the north. Some hikers bypass Karanga and continue on to Barafu – another 3 hours of hiking – only to make their summit attempt starting later on the same day. I don’t think that is a good idea at all, considering the time and energy expended to make it from Barranco up the Barranco Wall and through the several steep valleys en route to Karanga. Starting off summit day with a sleep deficit, on depleted leg muscles and at considerable altitude, is just not the smart move.

We made it to Karanga Camp around noon, just in time for a hot lunch. In the afternoon we did a Kilimanjaro version of Wordle, took a hike around the campsite, and made use of a couple of intermittent periods of sunlight to put out some solar charging devices.  

All the while Kibo loomed in the background, a silent but very powerful reminder of what lay ahead of us the following day. 

Tue 22 Feb:  Karanga Camp to Barafu – Preparing for the summit attempt

After another good night of sleep – at least for yours truly – we went through the usual morning routine of getting ready for another day of camping on Mt. Kilimanjaro.

It starts with storing your sleeping bag and mattress, getting dressed, setting aside the items for your day pack, and packing everything else into your duffel bag. There’s fluids to be prepared such as using Steri tablets or adding Nuun or Gatorade powder to the supplied boiled water. Apply sunscreen, including a high SPF product for your lips, make sure your camera or smartphone is charged, get your hat and sticks and off you go.

On this day we had a relatively short hike ahead of us, of about 3 hours, from Karanga to Barafu, which would be the base camp for the actual summit attempt. Which would start late on the evening of 22 February hopefully culminating with the three of us reaching Uhuru Peak around 8:00 to 9:00 am on Wed 23 February.  

The walk to Barafu was steadily uphill through noticeable rocky terrain. If the gods of antiquity were petulant children who tossed around large and small boulders in helter-skelter fashion, this is what the end result would be. Rocks and boulders in every direction, with precious little in the way of vegetation and almost nothing green. This was true Alpine desert. The only climate zone left? The snow cap at the summit. The last uphill into Barafu is steep and rocky and at an altitude of around 15,000 feet above sea level. It was a formidable test.  

We reached Barafu fully ready for some food and a lot of rest. Which is exactly what we proceeded to do. We enjoyed probably one of the best lunches of the trip so far, a hearty and altogether delicious vegetable stew, with some white rice on the side. Just what the doctor ordered. By 2:00 pm we were ready to at least attempt to take a nap to recharge the batteries for the most demanding hike most of us would ever do. Eight or nine hours to go until we would set off on the climactic portion of our 9-day Kilimanjaro adventure. It was with a mix of anticipation, excitement and just a little nervousness that we retired to our tents that afternoon.  

By 6:00 pm (none of us actually having slept a wink), we were back in the mess tent for a light dinner. A light icy rain started to fall during dinner, perhaps not the best harbinger of things to come on summit day or rather night. Little did we know then how things would turn out.

Just like on my previous three successful climbs, I did not sleep at all, using the afternoon and early evening hours to rest and prepare. Getting ready for the summit attempt takes a lot of planning and selection of suitable gear. Other than one’s climbing boots, the choice of a waterproof shell is critical. This is the one garment without which a Kilimanjaro climb can quickly turn miserable if not unbearable. It is of paramount importance to stay warm and dry and for that you need a good shell.

I wore an Arcteryx Beta AR shell for the first time and it was the bomb. 100% waterproof, warm, and with tighteners at the sleeves to keep moisture out. Good pockets with zippers, a proper hood and lightweight to boot. The large size means it is roomy enough to fit comfortably over several other layers, including a heavy fleece.

A light breakfast was served just after 10:00 pm, and following that we made the usual final adjustments & preparations. Put on gaiters, checked on our water and Gatorade supply, made sure we had our sunglasses, suntan lotion and extra batteries for the headlamp. It turned out that my extra batteries had been left behind in a bag in Arusha. It would cost me dearly later the following day. Other important final checks? Have your liner and heavy gloves ready from the word go. Cold fingers and hands are no fun and can be distracting. My set of heavy REI skiing mittens worked well. In your backpack also include your camera and extra batteries (keep them warm) and a 30 + SPF lip balm. This is vital – so many people leave Kili with cracked, blistered lips – do not let it happen to you!

Wed 23 Feb:  Uhuru Summit attempt – Disaster strikes

Finally, around 11:00 pm, as a snow flurry came down, we started out of Barafu Camp. Having completed the Machame Route in 2016, I remembered that there was a rather nasty stretch of rocks and steep uphill right out of the gate leaving Barafu. Sure enough, we were huffing and puffing almost immediately. The treacherous, even dangerous uphill stretch was much worse than I had remembered. It was rough, with huge rock slabs to be negotiated under less than ideal (wet, icy, snowy) conditions.

If I were ever to climb this route again (which is unlikely), I would absolutely make Kosovo my final base camp, not Barafu. Kosovo is about an additional hour’s hike further up the mountain, past Barafu. Climbing out of Kosovo – which we did when we hiked the Machame Route – is the smart move. Of course, that means having to include the steep, hilly stretch (leading out of Barafu) as part of the hike from Karanga the previous day. Seeing as that hike is less than 3 hours, it makes eminently good sense. It makes your summit day attempt much less strenuous not having to contend with that awful, rocky hill first thing out of the gate.

Once we had negotiated the steep, nasty stretch, we made pretty good progress and I was starting to feel confident about summiting. Conditions were ideal with no wind or snow, and it wasn’t exceptionally cold. I was just thinking that we were well on our way, with the rocky stretch leading to Stella Point being the only really difficult portion ahead, when an event occurred which would change everything almost instantaneously.

One person in our party just said, “I’m feeling a little dizzy,” almost immediately started to wobble a bit and took a few steps to a large rock, where she lost consciousness. As it turned out, she would not be  able to recall any of the subsequent events until she reached about 12,000 feet elevation at Millenium Camp on the way back down.

Later on, we realized that our team mate was suffering from HACE – High Altitude Cerebral Edema. I was aware of HACE and its cousin HAPE – High Altitude Pulmonary Edema – having done extensive reading prior to my first Kili attempt. Unless and until one of them unfolds in front of your eyes these conditions remain theoretical constructs in your mind.  

It was scary experiencing it first-hand and seeing your friend go from walking normally to being completely out of it in a matter of less than two minutes. If untreated, HACE can be fatal. We all knew what had to be done: the climber had to get emergency oxygen and be rushed to a lower altitude.

That is exactly what happened. An oxygen tube was connected and the emergency descent was started practically immediately, with assistant guide Winford taking the lead and moving ahead of us downhill at a rapid pace, physically supporting the stricken hiker. The remaining two climbers followed – at a substantially slower pace – with head guide Joseph. We paused for a short while at Barafu where the decision was made to evacuate right out of the park, and to not overnight at Mweka which would ordinarily be the case.  

We still had not seen our friend but was told that she was feeling a lot better. The descent from Barafu to Mweka is a tough downhill slog of about 3 hours along an abysmally bad, substandard, rock-strewn track. Negotiating this dangerous descent after a successful summit – as I had done before – is tough, but doing it in the dark was crazy. It is pathetic that the Kilimanjaro authorities make that particular track the only option down for hikers completing the Machame, Lemosho or Umbwe summit attempts. Since 2016 – when I first hiked down along the road after a Machame climb – few if any improvements had been made. To make matters worse we were walking in near total darkness from 3:00 am until 6:30 am. Being without spare batteries, my headlamp petered out halfway down the track, which made every step more difficult than it should have been. Fortunately we made the hazardous trek without twisting an ankle or worse.

We were finally reunited with our friend at Mweka Campsite. She was feeling much better but clearly still the worse for wear,  groggy and fatigued. We had a long 10 km (6 mile) stretch of road ahead of us to the Mweka Gate. It took us the better part of 3 hours to complete the beautiful yet tiring walk through the rainforest. With dozens of porters passing us every mile or so, we took what felt like thousands of steps down to where the jeep track terminated. Relief was in sight! Minutes later we were bundled into a vintage ambulance and drove the last few miles to Mweka Gate.  

From there it was about 40 minutes back to our Moshi Hotel where we collected our valuables and left luggage, took a very mch overdue and welcome hot shower and handed over the gratuity to Joseph and Winford to be distributed among the team. It was time to say goodbye to our stalwart guides and to head back to Arusha for the night. The next day we said our own goodbyes and went on our way to Houston, San Antonio and Johannesburg, respectively. The trip didn’t end quite the way we would have liked it to, but it was a major achievement to have climbed as high as we did under really trying circumstances. 

Three common Kilimanjaro climb pitfalls to avoid

What are the three most common mistakes made in the planning and execution of a Kili climb?

#1: Not adding an additional acclimating day and opting for the minimum # of days on a climb

Unless you are a super-conditioned athlete – and even then – attempting the Lemosho route in just seven days instead of 8, the Machame Route in just six days or the Marangu Route in just five, is looking for trouble. Spending an additional day on the mountain at altitude makes a huge difference in the chance for a successful summit. So spend a bit more time in Tanzania and pay the extra money for one more day: it will be worth your while. This is even more important on the shorter routes like Marangu and Umbwe, both of which can theoretically be done in 5 days. Definitely add an extra night on these climbs; even then your body is going to have a tough time to adjust due to the short, rapid ascent.

#2: Flying into Kilimanjaro the night before starting your Kili climb

This is not a good idea, particularly if you live in a city close to sea level and you have to take one or more long flights crossing as many as 9 or 10 time zones to get to Tanzania. Departing from sea level, spending 30-plus hours on the journey, only getting to Tanzania the night before – and then setting out on the climb the very next day – is decidedly risky. Like asking your body to go from zero to 60 mph overnight.

On the other hand, spending 3 nights or so in Tanzania at around 1,500 meters above sea level, such as in the Arusha or Moshe area, can make a decisive difference for the better. You’ve already made a significant investment in time and money to get this far, so don’t risk it by starting up the mountain too soon. Spending a few nights at a lodge such as Ngare Sero, on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru just outside Arusha, will be hugely beneficial. There’s plenty of activities to keep you busy, including hiking on the lower slopes of Mt. Meru. Get over the jet lag, rest up a bit and give your body a chance to acclimate to the mile-high altitude before you pile on more altitude over the next few days. If you’re keen, we can even arrange a 3-day hike of Mt. Meru which would be the ideal fine-tuning of your Kilimanjaro preparation.

#3: Starting off at too fast a pace

You’ve done the training, you’re feeling fit and you want to get to the top. Fast. So off you go, charging up the mountain, right out of the gate. Big mistake. Kili is not a race and there is no special certificate for beating the pack. It takes 6 or 7 days or even more, and the real test only starts around midnight on summit day. That is when a Kili climb goes from relatively easy to sometimes super difficult, depending on the conditions. Not conserving your energy earlier on will cost you dearly then. Always mind your guide’s entreaties to go slowly. Pole pole.  

Of course, several other factors come into play including good physical preparation, proper equipment, picking the best time of the year for your climb, and having a competent head guide in charge.

  

How to improve your chances to summit Kilimanjaro: 

#1: Keep your feet happy and healthy

This starts with buying and wearing in a good pair of well-fitting waterproof boots. Do not scrimp on this purchase. The line between success and failure on Kilimanjaro is a thin one and developing debilitating blisters can easily tilt you in the wrong direction. Personal hygiene is a challenge on the mountain with no access to showers, except cold ones on the Marangu Route. Whatever you do or do not do in this arena, don’t neglect your feet. Take immediate and decisive action to treat a blister or hot spot right away, before it becomes problematic. Use an antifungal like Tinactin daily and apply a lubricant like Glide (get it from a running store) on and between your toes, on your heels and other potential problem areas, before every hike. Prevention is way more important than cure, particularly over the space of a few crucial days.

Proper socks are super important. I’ve had great results with a thin liner sock (like the REI store brand), together with a double-layered hiking sock such as the Wrightsock ‘Coolmesh’ type. Take enough socks to start with a clean pair (liner and regular socks) every day, plus 2 spare sets in case of unexpected heavy rain or other mishap.

#2: Follow your head guide’s instructions and requests

Your head guide has summited Kilimanjaro probably dozens and even hundreds of times. He knows what works, he can anticipate issues and pitfalls, help you avoid failure and inspire you to deliver your best. As long as you listen to him and let him lead. If the pace initially seems painfully slow, there is a reason. If the head guide wants you to do an afternoon climb to gain some more altitude after a long and perhaps punishing morning hike, do it. Don’t fret, don’t whine – you are paying good money for the chance to achieve something really special. So, shun all negativity from your mind and let your head guide help you realize your dream.

#3: Sleep when you can

Get some sleep at night or during the day, whenever the opportunity arises. Whether it’s a 15-minute nap or a 6-hour slumber, it all adds up and it is vital, in fact critical for success. Bring good earplugs, a comfy pillow, whatever it takes to get you in a sleep mode. Avoid caffeine and alcohol. A high quality sleeping bag which will keep you warm at temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit is a good investment in more and better sleep. It means you can get into your sleeping bag with just a couple of layers of loose, comfortable sleepwear. To keep warm in a sleeping bag not designed for such low temperatures, you may end up having to wear multiple layers of clothing. This can be annoying, restrictive and not conducive at all to falling asleep easily and quickly. Plus of course being cold inside your sleeping is guaranteed to adversely affect your sleep duration and quality.

#4: Eat and drink regularly

The food on Kilimanjaro is typically bland and predictable: chicken and chips, a variety of stews, lots of vegetables and pasta. And soups. If you are lucky your cook will prepare some local foods like ugali (rustic polenta) and beans. Even the most creative of mountain cooks are stymied by the limited range and quantity of fresh ingredients which the porters can carry all the way up, so don’t expect something new and exciting every day. You must eat though, to replenish the thousands of calories burnt every day. So, while you may not always feel ravenously hungry, decent nourishment is vital. Be sure to bring some energy bars with you; on our last trek I tried the Luna brand Blueberry and Lemon Zest varieties and they both hit the spot! Be creative and experiment, just make sure that you get your calories in. It is ok to indulge in sugary treats for these few days so by all means tuck into candy bars, chocolates, snack food and trail mixes – anything you find palatable.

Your head guide will be checking regularly to make sure that you stay hydrated as that is of paramount importance. Whether you use a bladder system or individual Nalgene bottles – or both – make sure that you carry at least 3 to 4 liters of water on you; it is advisable to add some electrolytes to the bottled water.

#5: Take the Diamox

Don’t shy away from a twice daily dose of Diamox (Acetazolamide), a diuretic which helps to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. Most climbers take about 125 mg daily and up to 250 mg before summit day. Be sure to consult a physician before doing so. Taking Diamox is no guarantee of success, but it does help a lot of people. The most common side-effects include some tingling in the extremities and excessive urination. Not a bad trade-off for achieving your goal. Persons who have an allergy to Diamox or sulfa drugs should clearly not take this drug – again, be sure to consult a medical specialist before taking any prescription medication.

#6: Train, train, train

It is never too soon to start training for Kili but certainly you’d want to be on some kind of training regimen starting no less than 6 months prior to the summit date. Ideally of course, climb some mountains or hills with a backpack, with some weights. Start modestly and work your way up from a couple of days or so per week, increasing the distance and frequency as the climb approaches.

No hills? Find a levee wall or other decent sized hill or slope (steps if there is nothing else) and walk up and down with a weighted backpack for up to an hour or more, several times per week. Make this progressively harder and more challenging as the big day approaches. Be careful with weights on your back as too much can be dangerous, particularly if not carried high up and close to your upper torso. Even regular long hikes with your Kili boots and backpack (load it up progressively) will help with the preparation, hills or no hills.

  

In addition to, and in combination with hiking, I suggest a series of single leg exercises to increase your ability to handle the thousands of ‘up’ and then thousands of ‘down’ steps required to get to the top. And down again. The exercises which I personally do include these:

  • * Single leg step-ups 
  • * Single leg deadlifts 
  • * Single leg squats  
  • * Regular weighted squats
  • * Walking lunges       
  • * Calf lifts

It is a good idea to also include some aerobic distance exercises like running, biking or a rowing machine to build up endurance and good oxygen utilization. Maybe even some high intensity running like fartleks (speedplay) which can be done anywhere. Just warm up properly and don’t make any sudden or large increases in volume or intensity from one day or week to the next. Slowly slowly, just like the eventual ascent you are working towards!

There is no prohibition on including other training modalities and equipment like regular gym core and weight work, swiss ball, medicine ball, resistance bands or whatever you are already doing. And of course, if you already work with a personal trainer, that is your best-case scenario. A personal trainer will be able to customize your training program to get you into tip-top form for Kilimanjaro!

If you are ready to take on the challenge of Kilimanjaro, call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Take Yourself On Safari

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Take Yourself On Safari

It’s a little known fact that as many as 45% of U.S. adults over 20 are single, and many of them by choice. Whether they love to travel solo – or not – it is often their best, even their only option because of necessity or circumstance. Good news for solo travelers is that the African safari industry is starting to realize that there are millions of singles out there who want to travel but not necessarily as a ‘party of 2.’ Two of the major players in the safari business, Wilderness and &Beyond, are already on board. There will be no single supplement for solo travelers staying at any &Beyond lodges in Africa for travel before 20 December 2024 and Wilderness have waived single supplements except during the high season months of June through October. Several other African safari operators have similar offers in place. 

Is a trip to Africa a good idea or even a viable option for a single person? We like to think it is. An African safari – particularly a customized itinerary designed for a solo traveler – can be a rewarding experience on many levels. You will find yourself in a beautiful setting enjoying game drives and other activities with a few other people who share your interests and who will usually be quite keen to talk about their safari to date, or what lies ahead. Where have you been? Where are you going next? What have you seen? There’s no better icebreaker than a common interest or passion, and the African wilderness is no exception.  

We wouldn’t advise singles to book on just any program, however. Make sure that your itinerary is designed around your preferences. If you’re naturally gregarious or simply want to meet some new people, you will do well in properties where communal dining is the norm, as opposed to restaurant style with each party at its own table. A typical safari is filled with opportunities to meet and interact with other people such as during sundowners, when everyone gets out of the vehicle for drinks and snacks at a nice spot somewhere as the sun sets. Singles fit in everywhere: on walks, village visits, boating outings, canoeing, or simply waiting in a hide or blind for something interesting to show up. You’re never on your own – unless of course you want to be. 

On most wildlife-focused trips, minimal time is spent in cities or areas where a single person may attract unwanted attention. You will be in a private, protected environment most of the time and where necessary – such as on arrival at airports – any good operator includes personalized meet and assists.  

Yet another option to avoid most single room supplements in African safari destinations would be to travel in the low demand and shoulder season months, roughly from November through the end of May. Prices are much lower and there are fewer other visitors around. While there may be some rain showers and a few thunderstorms from time to time, we believe the advantages of low season African travel far outweigh the negatives. 

Many safari lodges and tour operators cater actively to solo adventurers, providing opportunities to join group excursions and meet like-minded individuals. Putting together your own itinerary means you can shape and plan it just the way you want, as active or as leisurely as you wish.  

Traveling single in Namibia

Namibia has always been considered an adventurous but safe destination for solo travelers, (male and female) and two trips that are particularly well suited for solo travelers are Ultimate Safaris’ two small-group safaris, the Ultimate Namibia and Namibia Under Canvas. They are guaranteed to depart with even just one person, so solo travelers can be sure that their trip will be a go. So they can book their flights and don’t have to wait for others to confirm. Ultimate’s Namibia trips generally operate with about five to six persons, all English-speaking but with a mix of nationalities (USA, Canadian, Australian, UK, Netherlands) and they are an affordable option for solo travelers to explore Namibia. Between their two options (10-day Ultimate Namibia and 10-day Namibia under Canvas Safari) Ultimate operates as many as 70 departures per year.

The Ultimate Namibia trips are mostly all-inclusive, with participants getting to experience Sossusvlei (staying inside the park), the Atlantic Ocean coast (with an option to sea kayak or participate in a motorized boat activity), Damaraland (Twyfelfontein rock art, desert-adapted elephants), Etosha (three nights on the southern side of the park, staying on the game-rich Ongava Game Reserve) and a day visit to the AfriCat Foundation, with an optional overnight extension at Okonjima on offer. 

The 10-day Namibia Under Canvas Safari makes use of largely Under Canvas-style accommodation, namely Ongava Tented Camp, Camp Doros and Camp Sossus, focusing on the experiential aspect of safaris. Ultimate has identified a strong desire in many guests to go back to the roots of ‘safari’, to touch, to smell, to feel and to experience the wild, with one’s feet firmly in the dust that covers Africa. The adventure is in taking guests to the most wild, remote and private places, and giving them access away from the beaten path. 

Solo travelers in Botswana

Botswana is likewise a great option for a solo traveler. As a general rule, the low-demand season in Botswana is the best time for single travelers as single supplements are waived in most cases. One of the tried and tested low-demand season programs – Kwando Safaris’ Five Rivers program – does not charge a single supplement on accommodation for the first two singles per group. With a choice of nine safari camps at rates under $700 per person per night (for the 2024-2025 green season), there are few better options for the solo traveler.  

Photo courtesy Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

A few more notable safari operators and properties which may appeal to solo travelers include Robin Pope Safaris (Zambia, Malawi & Zimbabwe), Chilo Safari Lodge (Zimbabwe) and Kambaku (South Africa) none of which charge a single supplement unless there are more than two singles in a party. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) do not charge a single supplement in Green and Shoulder season. Another South Africa operator which waives the single supplement for the first two singles in a booking is Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve. Lemala does not charge a single supplement over the low and shoulder season.

Ready to take yourself on safari? Call our Houston office at 1-800-513-5222 any time during business hours, Monday to Friday, CDT or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

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Zimbabwe ‘Fly Free’ Offer – Now Until 15 Nov 2024

There are only a handful of places in Africa which rival Mana Pools National Park in far northeastern Zimbabwe for sheer safari star power. Starting with a near perfect setting with several camps overlooking the floodplain leading down to the massive Zambezi. In the dry season the floodplain acts like a magnet for wildlife and there’s almost always something to see. Pack your binoculars. In the background? The looming Zambian escarpment, a series of craggy hills which look impossibly appropriate to the scene. Almost as if a primeval techie had photoshopped nature. It doesn’t take first-time visitors long to realize that there is something wonderfully ethereal about Mana Pools’ winterthorn (Faidherbia albida) forests. The near magical blue light which suffuses the interior of the forests transforms an already spectacular setting into something totally next level.

There’s a lot more, starting with above average to sometimes scintillating game viewing, given the presence of elephants, lions, leopards, African painted dogs, eland, waterbuck and zebra. Plus of course rafts of hippo in the Zambezi and some fine specimens of Nile crocodiles. Trolling unseen below the surface, an abundance of tiger fish, ready to grab your spoon or lure, should you be up for the challenge to take on these notoriously difficult to catch fighting fish. A hint: the tigers can be closer to the shore than you think, particularly if there’s a nice current visible. A more important hint: don’t venture too close to the edge. The tigers won’t, but the crocs may consider you fair game. 

Mix in foot safaris (Mana Pools is practically synonymous with getting out of the vehicle) and the place is heaven on earth for visitors in search of a classic Africa experience. 

If you’re still considering a summer getaway to Africa this year, you may find that Kenya and Tanzania – and all of the best camps in the private game reserves adjacent to Kruger Park in South Africa – are pretty much ‘sold out.’ You may balk at the eye-wateringly high prices of some of the northern Botswana properties. Don’t give up. Spain is not the answer. There’s still plenty of space available in Mana Pools, so give us a call at 800-513-5222 or email me at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to talk about a safari which is going to be excellent, and which will cost you half the price of a comparable Botswana trip. Mix in a few days in Hwange National Park (nowhere better for elephants) and you’ll come back with awesome photographs and even better memories and tales to tell. Upping the value even more? Free charter flights from Harare to Mana Pools, from Mana Pools to Hwange and from Hwange to Victoria Falls, provided you add on a couple of nights at Toka Leya, a superb lodge on the Zambezi, just far enough away – upstream – from Victoria Falls. This offer is available from now until 15 Nov 2024. Itineraries need to include a minimum of either six or eight nights in specific safari camps in Zimbabwe. Details available on request.  

Better game viewing earlier in the season 

The greater part of the prime game viewing area in Zimbabwe has experienced well below average rainfall this season which means that dry-season conditions have already set in. Mid- to late May will be like mid-July to early August in a ‘regular’ year. Less vegetation with more animals concentrated around remaining sources of water such as pumped water holes in Hwange and the floodplains of the Zambezi. The dry season is notorious for delivering the best predator activity, particularly with lions but also leopards making use of the opportunity to ambush herbivores when they come to drink. In Hwange and elsewhere there will be throngs of elephants and other mammals including buffalos, giraffes and some rarely seen antelopes like sable and roan, coming to the pumped water holes, pretty much day and night.  

Significant drought conditions later in the season 

Later in the dry season – as drought conditions worsen and food becomes scarce – some of the scenes around the water holes may be intense and even harrowing. Unless there is late rain, many of the large herbivores – notably the elephants – will start to struggle and the weaker ones will succumb as the daily trek between sources of food (woodland forest) and the water holes becomes just too much. In the long run, a reduction in the overall number of elephants in particular, will be beneficial for the environment. Regrettably, it will be a harsh and tough process to witness.   

The vital role played by safari visitors

Prospective visitors can take comfort in knowing that tourism dollars are hugely important in terms of sustaining the wildlife and the communities around the safari areas. As many as one out of every ten jobs in Africa is created and sustained by tourism. On average, one person employed in the Zimbabwe tourism industry supports as many as 10 dependents. The funds generated by tourism support vital wildlife safety nets like pumped water holes in Hwange. Right now, companies like Imvelo Safaris are going flat out re-drilling boreholes to maximize their efficiency and spending money on new pumps and equipment. Money which largely comes from American and other foreign visitors.   

Imvelo Safaris are also drilling three new boreholes at three villages specifically to sustain irrigated vegetable gardens to keep people fed during the coming months. They are also ramping up their school feeding program. Little or no corn in the fields means no fresh corn for breakfast, creating a need for more funds to provide the children with a square meal. In Zimbabwe, the second school term opens at the  beginning of May. Every additional visitor will make a difference. This year, more so than in a long time. Every dollar spent or donated in the Zimbabwe safari destinations this year will provide a vital, much needed boost to the local economy, the people and the wildlife.  

Two other ways in which the people of Zimbabwe can be supported is by making a microloan to a local entrepreneur on Kiva at kiva.org, or by directly supporting the conservation and community efforts of Mark Butcher and his team at Imvelo Safaris. Imvelo’s guests have sponsored a school meal program that has provided over 4 million school meals to dozens of schools in just the past 10 years. They’ve also built teacher cottages, constructed classroom blocks, established a health clinic at Ngamo and annually they arrange a massive ‘Smile and See’ project treating thousands of dental and optical patients free of charge, with the help of a visiting team of dentists and eye doctors. Donations to all Imvelo Trust projects may be made on this site: https://www.hwangecommunityrhino.com/how-to-donate.

Incredible value

A safari of equal quality, using a similar mix of classic category tented camps in Zimbabwe is roughly half the price of a northern Botswana trip of the same duration during high season. With hardly any dropoff in terms of game viewing and diversity of habitats and activities. Not to mention equal or better professional guiding in Zimbabwe and more varied scenery. Victoria Falls being at its best through the end of May and into June, when the river is in high flow stage. The setting of the Mana Pools camps on the southern edge of the Zambezi with the massive river in front and the pretty Zambian escarpment in the background? One of the best in all of Africa. Travel before the end of May and you can take advantage of low shoulder season pricing, with rates at some of the camps being as much as 50% lower than high season prices. Include three free flights (Harare to Mana Pools, Mana Pools to Hwange and Hwange to Victoria Falls) and you’re looking at a savings of up to $1,500 per person. 

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