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Botswana’s Okavango Delta & Central Kalahari – March 2025 – Part 1

24th May 2025

Botswana’s Okavango Delta & Central Kalahari – March 2025 – Part 1 

Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon Duplessis recently visited several Botswana properties on an educational trip; here is his report:

“March is typically as early in the year as you can head to Botswana and still have a really good experience. The rainy season is just about over (but you’re still likely to experience a few thunderstorms and showers), the grass is green and the animals look healthy. That same grass, if the rains were particularly good, can be a bit on the tall side and that was definitely the case this year. Botswana received a copious amount of rain. Ask anyone in Botswana and they will say that is a good thing. Their currency, the Pula, literally means rain. And they say “pula,” their version of cheers, when they toast a drink. Having said that, it does present some challenges. That nice looking green grass can obscure some of the smaller mammals and make them more difficult to see. The abundance of water – everywhere – tends to disperse the animals who might otherwise have to gather around remaining sources during the dryer months. The good news? All the animals are still around, you just have to work a bit harder to see them and get a little bit lucky. During the course of a full length safari (6 to 9 nights), we like your odds and this trip backed up that sentiment.

Gomoti Plains

My first stop was Machaba Safaris’ Gomoti Plains Camp. I had heard a lot of good things about this camp and the area that it was in. The part of the Okavango Delta the camp is located in has become a hotbed for animal sightings and action in general. It did not disappoint during my all too brief 2-night stay. The camp itself is classic level with plenty of comfort and space but nothing over the top. The staff to guest ratio felt very high to me and everyone was friendly and helpful. Our guide Carl was excellent and the food was delicious.

At one point on a drive my allergies started acting up due to the grass but luckily I had some allergy medication I took which cleared them up in a timely manner. If you are headed to Botswana early in the year this is definitely something you should bring with you. As well as a buff and some eyewear to protect your face from any grass seeds the vehicle kicks up.

The wildlife viewing was a bit tough to come by but we did, thanks to our guide, get some good views of lions. Once during the day hiding under some thick bushes and then again during an after dinner night drive. In fact we saw a large pride of at least 10 lions on the move and hunting. We kept up briefly but they seemingly vanished into the tall grass. General plains game species such as giraffes, zebras and various antelopes were not hard to find.  

One interesting tidbit I overheard was that a couple of the guests were visiting this camp for the 5th time. I think that is no accident and a very good indicator of the quality of service and the amount of animals in the area. Our guide said as the year moves on the animals flock to the river and become very easy to observe.

Kwando 4 Rivers

If two nights at Gomoti were too short a stay then the one night I got to spend at Kwando 4 Rivers was really quite tragic. But it can be difficult to balance seeing new camps with a tight schedule, so in this case, I had to settle for what I could get. I really like the location of this camp with the large main area overlooking permanent water. There is no boating here but mokoro can be done year round. The rooms were impressive and very spacious.

The grass here was even taller than at Gomoti so when we heard that a lion had been spotted a little ways away – but we had to go off road most of the way to get there before sunset – we knew it was going to be an adventure. It was bumpy and the grass was flying everywhere. The occasional log or channel of water slowed us down from time to time but we got there and got to see two female lions with 6 cubs on a kill and then the cubs started suckling from the mothers. Just a fantastic sighting. The only bad news was that we had to make the whole trek back to camp before we ran out of daylight. Oh well – it was very much worth the effort.

A couple of things that Kwando does that not everyone else does; they have a guide and a spotter on their game drives and they have communal dinners. We like both and feel like they add to the safari experience.

Dinaka

It was now time for my trip with Ker and Downey Botswana to start. First up, after meeting all of my fellow travel companions at the airport, was Dinaka Camp, located just about a 25-minute flight from Maun on a large private conservancy north of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. I was anxious to get a look.

Just like the rest of northern Botswana there had been good rains earlier in the year so the landscape was not what you might expect of the Kalahari. Trees, grass, plants and flowers were everywhere looking very healthy and vibrant. There was a great abundance of butterflies and the plains animals looked to be in great shape. We got to see some action right out of the gate on our evening game drive near the airstrip. As we approached there were lions chasing a small herd of zebras in a cloud of dust. No kill but great to experience that excitement so early in our stay.

That evening we drove to a stargazing deck for our sundowner. From there you can see how expansive the conservancy is as you are surrounded by it. The sunset from there was also superb and of course you have a mobile bar and all the snacks you can shake a stick at. Not a bad start. A bit of a curiosity on the night drive back to camp – our vehicle spotted a Kalahari mole rat. We were told it was an extremely rare sighting. Now you know.  

We stayed around the campfire after dinner taking advantage of the lit watering hole by the main area. Over the course of the night we saw a leopard, followed by a brown hyena, finally followed by a quick moving honey badger. Well worth a late night.

Some additional highlights at Dinaka include seeing the 4 or 5 white rhino which are located on the property. Our guides did a wonderful job tracking them through the tall grass. It actually looks like a motorcycle drove through the grass where they had been. The camp also has numerous hides located across the property which offer wonderful photographic opportunities. The second night we got to experience some lions roaring right next to our vehicle. And the staff was wonderful and quite talented as far as singing goes. I think this camp really jumped off the page for me and I would highly recommend you check it out.”

If you are up for a last-minute trip to Botswana or thinking ahead for 2026 or even 2027, by all means reach out to Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com. He’d be happy to respond by email or arrange a Zoom meeting for you to be introduced to a couple of the members of our team. There’s nothing we like more than talking about Africa and finding out more about exactly what kind of a trip you might have in mind. We can also be reached by phone at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222 any time of the day and weekends. Please leave a message with the answering service and one of us will get back to you promptly. 

Lodge photos courtesy Gomoti Plains and Danaka

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Lyndon Visits South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

19th April 2025

Lyndon Visits South Africa’s Eastern Cape Province

South Africa’s Eastern Cape game reserves are located in a spectacularly beautiful, malaria-free area just off the Indian Ocean coast, about 500 miles due east of Cape Town. The area is easily accessible by air from Johannesburg (1 hr 45 minutes) and Cape Town (1 hr 15 minutes). Its beautiful green rolling hills, temperate weather and abundance of wildlife with all of the ‘Big Five’ mammals being present (lions, leopards, buffalo, elephant and rhino) make it an attractive destination for visitors wanting to add a safari to a Cape Town stay. It is also a great option for families who don’t want to take their children into a malaria area, or who may simply want to explore a different safari area, having previously visited the Sabi Sands or Timbavati or another area in South Africa.  

Jason and Bert have visited the Eastern Cape reserves a total of four times between them; Lyndon recently made it there for the first time; here is his personal account:  

“I spent four nights in two different camps in South Africa’s Eastern Cape in the middle of March with my family. It was my first time in the area and I must say I really enjoyed it. The first stop was Lalibela Treetops. We flew in the morning from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth (now Gqeberha) and had a road transfer of about an hour to the camp. 

What were some of the highlights? I can start with the staff led by the manager Wynton Fortune – they were fantastic. Likewise our guide Desigan Naidoo – he goes by Des – was very engaging and skilled. The camp itself felt intimate and the rooms were canvas with a thatch roof. Plenty of room with all the necessities. Meals here are communal which is always fun.

The area where you do your game drives is very interesting. The Eastern Cape is a Big Five destination but there’s no malaria which is great for families with kids, or just anybody who’s not keen on taking the malaria pills. The landscape is filled with rolling green hills with ample bushes and trees as well as open savannah. It very much reminded me of parts of Kenya, such as  Lewa and the Masai Mara. Lalibela has abundant plains game including blesbok, impala, zebra, wildebeest, nyala, amongst others. Also plenty of giraffes, good numbers of rhino and lion. We saw a herd of about 300 buffalo and on our last day we got a bit lucky and spent some time viewing a cheetah. There are probably about 50 elephants on the property as well.

Lalibela is very interesting because it is essentially a conservation program being run as a safari destination. Their mission is to expand their acreage, rehabilitate the land, and then let the animals do their thing. It can be strange to be watching a pond full of hippos and then hearing a truck speed by on a nearby public road. I gave this some thought and although some people might find it distracting, I think it is commendable. Just as in Kenya where you’re likely to see the Maasai with their cattle grazing inside a conservancy or alongside a national park. Civilization is not something that can be easily contained but at the same time these wildlife sanctuaries can expand and thrive alongside human populated areas, creating more room for animals to inhabit. With the wildlife essentially repopulating the areas where they naturally occurred before humans displaced them.

From Lalibela, we transferred by road to our next game reserve –  Kariega Ukhozi – and there were some distinct differences. Where Lalibela had rolling hills, Kariega had steep and mountainous ones. The relatively sparse bush and forest was replaced with dense, impassable sections. The open plains remained and just like at Lalibela, the wildlife were abundant. We had a great time with our guide Megan who really knew the area and the animals in it. On our first day we were able to see a mother rhino and her baby. The mother, Thandi, had survived a horrible poaching attempt some years ago. She still bore the scars of the incident but it hadn’t stopped her from giving birth to at least 6 (or maybe 7) calves. Some of whom have gone on to birth or father their own calves. That is the type of impact a place like Kariega can have. 

Just like Lalibela, Kariega was formerly farmland, devoid of many of the large mammals which have been thriving here for several decades now. At one point we were able to easily see at least eight different large mammal species from our game drive vehicle which is always a good sign. We saw plenty of kudu, nyala, blesbok, wildebeest, zebra, rhino, and probably more giraffes than I have seen anywhere else ever. We got to see lions a few times and the area, tucked between the Kariega and Bushman’s rivers, is possibly even more striking than Lalibela. 

Your guide joins you for breakfast and every third night they do a traditional meal in the boma where your guide joins you again. The food was excellent and our rooms were very spacious and included a plunge pool amongst other niceties. Overall both camps and areas impressed me.”

Lyndon and Jason can both assist with more information and trip ideas for Southern Africa, incorporating a few days in the delightful Eastern Cape reserves. Email lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message at 1-800-513-5222 and one of us will be sure to call you back. 

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A Warm Welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

24th February 2025

A warm welcome at Royal Chundu, Victoria Falls Zambia

Listening to and soaking up the soft gurgling of the Zambezi River at 6.30 am on a cool summer morning last December at Royal Chundu Island Lodge in Zambia was about the best start to a day I’ve had in years. Adding to the sense of serenity and calmness which a setting like that engenders were the naturally soothing sounds of birdcalls. At least five or six different birds made it patently obvious that they liked being there that morning just as much as I did. 

Few safari lodges anywhere in Africa look as good during the day as they do at night, when subtle lighting with locally made lanterns and candles can turn even a mediocre spot into a romantic getaway. Not so Royal Chundu. It looked great during the day and simply gorgeous at night. A lasting impression was the complete absence of distracting or otherwise bothering sounds. I heard the water – and the birds. And nothing else. Just the way it should be.  

Our first stop at Royal Chundu was at River Lodge which has the most extraordinarily beautiful view over a broad stretch of the Zambezi with Zimbabwe on the other side. The Zambezi may have been at a low flow stage then (early December) but it was still one heck of a river, with a massive expanse of water in front of the lodge. Following our arrival briefing (which included some lovely iced tea and a much appreciated shoulder massage) we set off by boat to Royal Chundu Island Lodge. 

With just four elegant – air-conditioned – rooms tucked into a dense stretch of riverine forest, Royal Chundu Island Lodge is a veritable escape from reality. It felt like there was nobody else around and that happened to be the case on the day. We were in that rarest of rare places, our own island paradise. Travel dreams do come true.  

A short 10-minute walk took us to a lively picnic spot overlooking a set of rapids in the Zambezi. Just for the two of us the camp had set up what amounted to an adult playground. A picnic table with a couple of hammocks, a covered outdoor grilling and serving area with a well-stocked bar, a pizza oven and a large rug with soft, comfortable cushions. The perfect spot to enjoy a short siesta, the white noise of the Zambezi creating a near irresistible somnolescent effect. 

Irresistible also describes the tantalizing array of items for lunch. Chicken pizza, vegetable pizza, freshly grilled Zambezi caught bream. Fillet of beef and grilled chicken. A mixed bean and chickpea salad with carrots, cucumber, sautéed onion, grapes, mango and nuts. We gave it our best shot.

Royal Chundu village visit 

There are village visits and there are village visits. The not-so-great ones make you feel like an interloper, an alien checking out a strange new world. The good ones put you at ease right away, usually because of an exceptionally good local guide. We had just such a person show us around – Edith Mushekwa. By dint of her personality and leadership role in the village, Edith made the visit fun and we quickly realized that this village had taken organic gardening to the next level. Their cooperative organic garden, for example, utilizes cow dung, ashes and leaves for soil preparation. No fertilizer or chemicals whatsoever. Crop rotation enables them to maintain soil health and avoid the buildup of pests and diseases associated with specific types of plants.  

During our casual stroll through the village, we had a fascinating introduction into the medicinal and commercial use of local trees, such as using the seeds of the mokete tree for oil. The hardwood of the same tree is also used for carving. The village produces a natural dye from the bark of the brown ivory tree. Many of the villagers carve items from redundant pieces of Zimbabwean teak.

On the boat ride back from the village we did a little birding and we we got lucky with several good birds including African skimmer, lesser jacana, pygmy geese, comb duck, African fish eagle, rock pratincole and a close-up display of a black egret ‘tenting’ its wings, a hunting technique.  

Our day – or at least the daylight portion of it – ended as peacefully as it had started,  drifting along the current of the Zambezi while being pushed by a cool breeze. It was cloudy so ‘sundowner cruise’ may not have been the best description. What it lacked in photo appeal it more than compensated with peace and quiet with not so much as another boat or even the sound of a boat anywhere. By 7 pm we were back at the jetty, ready to resume the eating safari. 

A traditional dinner 

The chef in charge of the culinary team preparing our traditional tasting menu was Chef Peter and he and his team absolutely bowled us over with the sensational range of flavors, textures, colors and aromas associated with the extensive traditional tasting menu. Relais and Chateaux properties like Royal Chundu are known for their high-quality restaurants and this meal was certainly in the ‘one-of-a-kind’ category. 

Right off the bat? A delicate veloute of Kabulangeti beans. The word means ‘small piece of blanket’ and the comfort food connection is not hard to guess. These small brownish beans tasted somewhat like black beans. Delicious. 

The second dish was dumplings with a dried fish filling; for the vegetarian in the party the chef had prepared a spinach wrap with mixed vegetable stuffing. Everything prepared from scratch and everything sourced locally. 

I skipped the meat and fish offerings but even the most ardent steak lover might have taken a second look at the array of vegetarian options:

  • Maize nshima (local version of polenta)
  • Millet nshima
  • Okra with sweet potato leaves
  • Aubergine impwa (‘egg’)
  • Spinach and ground nut melange 
  • Small local beans
  • Masembe pudding, the local take on sago pudding   

We didn’t finish everything but went to bed happy in the knowledge that none of the buffet items would go to waste.

Breakfast overlooking the Zambezi 

Our culinary exploration at Royal Chundu didn’t end with dinner. We jumped right back into it the following morning, starting with an excellent decaf Americano, with a vanilla muffin or milk scone with strawberry preserve on the side. Your choice. Not to forget the locally-made peanut butter and orange marmalade with freshly made toast. Just like at dinner, all the fresh vegetables and herbs used in the preparation of the meal were supplied by neighboring villages or regional farms. 

We really didn’t know where to start – or end – with so many choices: 

  • A fresh fruit platter with delectable watermelon, pineapple and mango 
  • Choice of two types of creamy traditional porridge or oats, served with wild honey & toasted ground nuts
  • French toast or flapjacks
  • A traditional breakfast with eggs, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms 
  • Eggs Benedict 
  • Eggs Florentine
  • A 3 egg omelette

A true community-run lodge

During an all too short site inspection at Royal Chundu River Lodge, general manager Aggie Banda filled us in on the remarkable manner in which the lodge – literally from day one when it opened in 2010 – has been community-run. Practically the entire Royal Chundu team are Zambians, including the managers. And most of the team members live in two nearby villages – Malambo and Muluka. Royal Chundu is a community-run lodge in the full sense of the word. The lodge provides training to the community, it sources its food from Zambia (mostly supplied by local fishermen and village gardens) and it supports the village gardeners through a Seed Project.   

To the extent possible, Royal Chundu looks to its own sphere for suppliers – such as seamstress work for their chitenge uniforms, cushion covers, doormats and dish covers; woodwork for their wooden doorbells; and artwork on the walls. The Royal Chundu staff have created spin-off businesses from the lodge, such as transfer services for guests as well as courier services delivering firewood and fertilizer.

Zambia in 2025 and 2026

Our short visit to Royal Chundu, which is of course on the Zambia side of the Zambezi River, reminded us that we may have been neglecting Zambia – as a safari destination – over the last few years.  

There are safari destinations which attract hundreds of thousands of visitors annually like Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. And then there’s Zambia in central Southern Africa which attracts a relative handful, by comparison. 

Zambia is a large Southern Africa country (about the size of Texas) with every bit as much diversity as Kenya or South Africa. Which says a lot. It offers a multitude of activities, scenic highlights, wildlife viewing opportunities and cultural interaction. With several new and exciting safari options in the offing for the 2025 and 2026 seasons, we will definitely be paying closer attention to Zambia. So if you ask us for a Botswana itinerary suggestion you’ll get it, but you may get a Zambia one as well! 

Our Fish Eagle Safaris team have visited Zambia regularly over the years, and we’re ready to answer any questions you may have and to suggest a couple of Zambia safari itineraries. Perhaps in combination with one or more other areas in Southern or East Africa. Please leave a message at 713-467-5222 and someone will get back to you right away, or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com.

Some photos courtesy Royal Chundu

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Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau: Ol Pejeta Private Conservancy

21st February 2025

Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau: Ol Pejeta Private Conservancy

Ol Pejeta is a Masai phrase which means ‘the place of burning,’ likely hearkening back to a time when pastoralist communities eradicated ticks by burning the grassy plains which dominate the area. During the course of a few days spent at four different safari camps in the Old Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya’s north-central Laikipia region, we fortunately experienced neither ticks nor fires. Rather, the visit highlighted a few key differences between Southern and East Africa and Botswana and Kenya in particular. 

For one thing, we started seeing rhinos, both black and white, right away. They are common, if not downright abundant, in several of Kenya’s private conservancies including Ol Pejeta and  Lewa-Borana. Elsewhere in Kenya, rhinos can also be seen in Loisaba Conservancy, in Meru National Park and Nairobi National Park, and there is a significant black rhino presence in the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary within Tsavo West National Park. 

Unlike many of the game reserves in Southern Africa, the rhinos of Ol Pejeta, Lewa and other parts of  Kenya are not dehorned so you will see them running around with their completely intact, beautiful horns – ready to defend themselves when necessary. In most of the private conservancies in Kenya it is not unusual to see from five to seven or eight mammals at the same time. On more than one occasion we had rhino, buffalo, giraffe, gazelle, zebras and jackals in the same field of view. 

Just like the private concessions in Botswana, the Kenya conservancies offer a more exclusive safari experience as access is restricted and a wide range of activities are available including night drives, walking safaris and off-road driving. Where they  differ is the degree of community involvement. The Kenya conservancies operate as integrated conservation entities, managing a healthy habitat for wildlife and livestock. They work closely with surrounding communities in a manner which blends commercial income from tourism as well as agriculture.  

Another notable difference: on safari in Botswana it is often downright impossible to see signs of civilization as we know it anywhere in the private concessions in northern Botswana. No power lines, no fences, no water towers, towns or even villages. Not so in Kenya. Some of the private conservancies border on national parks while others are enclaves within populated areas. Take a few photos at Lewa or Ol Pejeta and invariably, there will be structures in the background. In essence, there is no difference in the safari experience whether you’re 5 miles or 50 miles from the nearest power line, but ‘civilization’ is all too visible in the East African conservancies.

It is of course part of the conservation model: a cooperative effort involving local communities to preserve suitable habitat for wildlife. To be successful, all the partners have to be winners. Which means there will be some agriculture going on, visible to the human eye mostly in the way of cattle herds or sometimes flocks of  sheep or goats. Beyond serving as the living livestock ‘banks’ for the local people (whose wealth is largely measured by livestock ownership) these animals contribute to the health of the habitat by keeping the grass short where and when needed and by supplying free natural fertilizer. Livestock – notably cattle- also provide an additional revenue stream for the conservancy.

One other thing about Ol Pejeta that is practically impossible to miss is the looming presence of Mt. Kenya, Kenya’s highest mountain peak, often clearly visible to the south. Sometimes shrouded in mist, sometimes not, Mt Kenya is always there like a watching sentinel, a visible reminder of the landscape diversity which Kenya is fortunate to have. Over the course of four days in Ol Pejeta we had some great views of the mountain, with the single most memorable moment being observing some zebras in the foreground, with a misty mountain behind. My photography skills for once didn’t measure up to the challenge – silhouettes are always tricky!

Ol Pejeta Bush Camp

Our first stop in the conservancy, Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, felt comfortable and warm from the word go. Sitting out on the verandah overlooking the Ewaso Nyiro River while being given the usual arrival briefing, a good sized herd of elephants was grazing right on the opposite bank of the river. Later on, we saw several buffalos and hippos from the same spot, and other guests mentioned a leopard which was seen walking there. The delicious al fresco lunch on arrival set the tone for the quality of the meals. We also liked our tented room – one of only eight in this small, solar-powered camp.  

On our very first game drive in Ol Pejeta we encountered a remarkable number of rhinos including several black rhinos and one group of four white rhinos. It was no different the following morning and, without having to try too hard, I captured some of my best photos of both black and white rhinos in at least a decade. Over sundowners that afternoon a large male white rhinoceros appeared on the scene while we were watching four white rhinos grazing. The new arrival became agitated and ended up in an altercation with the largest individual in the group of four. As the light slowly faded, the two rhinos were still in a standoff, head to head, their massive horns just inches away from each other.

Kicheche Laikipia

What would be better than spending a few days at Kicheche Laikipia camp in Ol Pejeta? Combining it with a few days at a Kicheche property in the Masai Mara to qualify for Kicheche’s ‘stay 6, pay 5 nights’ special offer. Top-notch guiding, excellent all-around hospitality and thoughtfully designed rooms at all of the Kicheche properties make for a fun and absorbing safari experience with lots of animals and few other vehicles to be seen.  

At Kicheche Laikipia we felt at home right away, with every member of the team doing whatever they could to make our short stay special. The attention to detail, the ‘make your own pizza’ lunch, the sense of privacy and exclusivity with just six rooms tucked away into a dense thicket. From the cozy dining tent we observed a good number of animals coming to drink at a pond, a hundred meters or so from camp. Among others we saw eland, buffalo, elephant, many birds, impalas and gazelles – all while enjoying Kicheche’s excellent food. 

Our afternoon game drive out of Kicheche was another winner with several more excellent rhino sightings and finding a large pride of 26 lions – with lots of cubs of various ages. It was as entertaining and downright spectacular as any experience we’ve ever had with a group of big cats. Observing the youngsters ‘hunting’ each other, recognizing the affable attitude of particularly the adult females towards the young ones, letting the babies crawl all over them. Above all, seeing right there in front of us how cohesive they were as a pride, with muted contact calls and visual contact keeping them all moving as one, apparently all on their way to some predetermined spot. We were not unhappy to see the last couple of tails disappear into a thicket. We enjoyed our views and took our videos and photographs. It was time to let the lions be lions in private.

Sanctuary Tambarare

An extended game drive on our first day at Sanctuary’s Tambarare Camp illustrated just how diverse the Laikipia plateau can be. This beautiful expanse of broad, undulating plains, rolling hills and scattered rocky outcrops offers something new and interesting around every corner. Driving from the open savannah area into a huge whistling acacia thorn tree forest, we suddenly started seeing lots of small groups of the stunning reticulated giraffes. Without doubt my favorite of the giraffe species with their boldly delineated orange-red spots, separated by cream-colored lines.  

Later on during the same drive, we were watching a large pride of lions which had brought down a buffalo the previous night. As the sun was setting, several of them made their way to a watering point, one after the other. Just then, a black rhino started heading for the same trough and it initially made a mock charge towards one of the lions. When a couple of the other lions showed up the rhino figured that discretion was the better part of valor and it disappeared. Our guide didn’t think that the lions would actually have taken a serious interest in the rhino, but it certainly got us to pick up our binoculars.

Our tented room at Tambarare was just about perfect. Elegantly appointed with just enough space, it had a separate shower and toilet, his and hers wash basins, ample luggage space, recharging points, and adequate lighting. And lo and behold, there was an electric blanket which we put to good use. The level of food and service at Tambarare was top-notch and we were totally spoiled with the choices and options. A specially prepared dish with ugali and maharagwe (essentially red beans in a coconut-based sauce) was outstanding!  

Being close to the equator, there are no wild swings between summer and winter days and summer and winter weather in much of Kenya. Altitude is generally a more important weather determinant than anything else. Being at an altitude of more than a mile high, Tambarare and for that matter all of Laikipia is always temperate and generally quite nice, with daytime highs around 80F and average lows rarely below 50F. 

Our team at Fish Eagle Safaris have been including a few days in the Laikipia region with several Kenya itineraries lately, with great success. If you’re considering an East Africa or Kenya trip, please reach out to Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com for some suggestions on how – and when – Laikipia might best form a part of your trip. 

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A Grand Finale: Great Plains Conservation’s Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camps

Big cats high on your list of animals to see on your next or first safari? Then I might suggest that you include the massive Selinda Concession in far northern Botswana in your trip itinerary. When designing an African safari, one always hopes that it will end on a highlight. We spent the last three nights of our early December 2024 safari in two Great Plains Conservation properties – Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camp. While this was not actually the original plan – the sequence had to be changed due to a booking glitch – we could not have scripted the grand finale any better.  

Selinda Explorers Camp

By helicopter it took around 40 minutes to cover the approximately 80 miles from Tawana to Selinda Explorers camp, a tiny tented camp tucked into a riverine forest along the (then) dry Selinda channel. When we stepped out of the helicopter on what was another scorching hot day in northern Botswana, we had seen a lot on our trip to that point. But we had seen neither leopards nor cheetahs. So for those last three nights, our objective was two-fold: find these two (often) elusive members of the big cat family and try to see 111 different bird species in 72 hours. Which qualifies one for membership of Great Plains’ 111 club and scores you a nice cap in the process.

Selinda Explorers feels and is remote. For me personally it is the ideal iteration of a safari property. A truly classic tented camp, Selinda Explorer has three custom designed canvas guest tents and one 2-bedroom family tent. The main area consists of two inviting lounge and dining tents, with the entire camp exuding an atmosphere of warmth and genuine hospitality. A long day out in safari? This place, its people, and the manner in which they treat their guests will have you revived and re-energized in no time whatsoever. 

With our guide Esefa behind the wheel, our afternoon drive took us in a westerly direction along the mostly dry Selinda spillway. I don’t believe we were ever out of sight of what turned out to be an abundance of general game including zebra, kudu, tsessebe, buffalo, giraffe and more. And we started to set a good foundation with the bird list with many woodland species. 

Our dinner that night at Selinda Explorers was, I think, the most fun and enjoyable of any of our meals on safari. With just the six of us tucked in around a beautifully set table, it was as private as it could be and it felt like and sounded like we were in Africa. An approaching thunderstorm added a note of excitement as rain was on everyone’s mind. We would gladly have been drenched to the bone to see some relief for the wildlife and the environment. 

As it turned out the thunderstorm and rain held off until the wee hours of the next morning, and not without some concern on my part as to being safe from lightning. But first, it was time to just enjoy the delicious dinner prepared by the Great Plains chef. Dinners on safari are an opportunity to look back upon the day, recount some interesting or memorable sightings and to appreciate just how special it is to spend another night on safari.  

Zarafa Camp

For the last two nights of our Botswana safari, Great Plains Conservation upgraded our party to their Zarafa camp, a deluxe Relais and Chateaux property located in a great spot overlooking the Zibadianja Lagoon. Even after just one night, we had already grown quite fond of Selinda Explorers but the area was still in the grip of a heat wave, so the prospect of airconditioning in the sleeping areas at Zarafa made it an offer we couldn’t turn down. 

Highlights of our stay at Zarafa included extraordinarily good big cat viewing, starting with a male leopard on the way in, shortly to be followed by what turned out to be our only cheetah sighting of the entire trip. But first, the leopard sighting. It was an enthralling experience, from beginning to end. To start with, it was a miraculous effort by Esefa to spot the leopard in the first instance, as obscured as it was in a big tree, a good 30 meters or more off the road. Once we approached closer, the leopard twice relocated and each time we got a better view. Initially on a branch in the tree with a decent background (meaning not completely backlit) and then it climbed down. Walking straight towards our vehicle in really good light, the leopard then took a look at a nearby tree and, just meters away from us, clambered straight up. It was so close that we could hear the leopard’s claws scratching on the tree bark.  

About 40 minutes after we had been admiring the leopard, we were looking at spots of a different kind, this time watching a sleek cheetah as it made its way across an open area, not far from the Selinda airstrip. The cheetah was not quite as obliging in terms of providing us with photo opportunities, but it didn’t really matter. It was a cheetah and for several persons in our group, the first one they had ever seen. Over the next couple of days we were to enjoy another fascinating sighting of a female leopard who had dragged her baby impala prey into a tree. Also, we were fortunate to bump into 10 more lions, among others, two of the best looking males we’ve seen in a long time, the so-called Army Boys. A big cat bonanza if ever there was one. 

Over the course of three days in the Selinda area we racked up 120 different bird species: with extensive wetlands as well as mixed woodland, riverine forest, open floodplain and acacia thickets, the area has significant habitat diversity which is what it takes to support such an abundance of species. Cracking the 111 species mark would not have happened without our guide Esefa’s enthusiasm and expertise. I think he liked chasing the 111 bird target as much as we did!

Zarafa is a property which delivers a superior wilderness experience on many levels. The under-canvas tented rooms are massive and make a few days on safari about as much fun as can be imagined. Chill out in the plunge pool on a hot day, soak away a dusty day on safari in the large tub or take a quick shower indoors or outdoors – my best advice is to do them all. The four huge guest suites consist of a lounge area which flows to a beautiful bedroom and an open layout indoor bathroom with a gas fireplace, shower and claw-foot bath. A hand-crafted Zanzibar door at the entrance sets the right tone: this is not a run-of-the-mill tent by any stretch of the imagination.  

Being on safari at a deluxe property like Zarafa is synonymous with being pampered and we certainly were. Get ready for the full treatment: delicious, elaborate and expertly prepared meals, served with panache and elegance. Select a fine wine – bubbly if you prefer – from the sizable private wine cellar, or request your favorite cocktails with or without alcohol. Spend a bit of time at the outdoor gym with expansive views over the Zibadianja lagoon.  

Even so, and despite the luxury surroundings, Zarafa is very much in the wilderness and you don’t have to go on a game drive to experience it. One of the best spots in the area is the large deck right in front of camp, overlooking the massive Zibadianja lagoon. At the time of our visit the lagoon was mostly dry, but the remaining water attracted many herds of elephants, which would slowly move into the water from out of the woodlands, quench their thirst and then just as peacefully as they arrived, wander off in another direction. At times there were close to a hundred elephants or more at the same time. Peering through a telescope on the deck, it was possible to pick out the matriarch – the one who keeps things together for the herd – and to take a closer look at the tiny baby elephants, usually seen just a few meters away from an adult female, and often shielded between several of them. 

On the morning on which we had to say our reluctant goodbyes at Zarafa, Kathy and I decided to go and have a quick look at the gym – on the extreme left hand side of the camp – and to take a few pictures from there. What we had not reckoned on or planned for was an ‘elephant delay’ which occurred when a solitary bull elephant quietly made his way right up to the gym as we were looking in a different direction. We knew better than to try to dart across in front of him. So we just waited for a few minutes, giving him some space. With one eye on us and very much aware of our presence, the bull elephant moved past the gym from our left to our right and walked away, using the same path which we had used to get to the gym. We sighed a small sigh of relief, looked at each other with raised eyebrows and walked in the steps of the elephant, back to the lodge. Our safari was over.  

Our colleague Lyndon has visited several Great Plains properties recently so he is well equipped to answer any questions you may have about combining some of Great Plains’ Reserve Collection or Explorers camps in your safari itinerary. Great Plains have a range of first-class properties in Kenya, Zimbabwe and Botswana. Lyndon can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling and leaving a message at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222.

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A Visit to Tawana Camp, Moremi

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A Visit to Tawana Camp, Moremi

Over a splendid alfresco dinner in late 2024 at Natural Selection’s new Moremi jewel – Tawana – the conversation ranged from painted dogs to lion on lion conflict to our trip bird list. It was unseasonably hot (in the grip of a heatwave) so we talked about that and about the lack of rain. All standard safari dinner conversation fodder. Until we started to talk about cork. 

Earlier during our stay I had noticed the extensive cork flooring which is a distinct feature of the huge Tawana rooms and massive common areas. The textured – seamless – cork floors are attractive, essentially slip-free and they feel good when walking around barefoot in your room. Which I wouldn’t ordinarily do, but with slightly spongy, soft cork underfoot, I had to try. 

It turns out that the cork flooring had a story. We were fortunate to have been joined for dinner by Tawana co-owner Hennie Rawlinson and his talented daughter Jenna. While talking about some of the design features of the lodge (which has the same architect as Natural Selection’s fascinating Shipwreck Lodge in the Skeleton Coast National Park in Namibia), Hennie mentioned that  the finely textured cork was applied to the floor in slurry form, somewhat like cement. And, as it turned out, the lodge construction process had a ‘cork delay’ due to construction having to be halted for several weeks. Their South African cork sources had run dry. Additional cork had to be imported from Portugal to complete the process. 

When I make it back to Tawana – which I definitely plan to do some day soon – I’ll no doubt inadvertently wonder about the cork underfoot. South African pinotage or Portuguese port? Tawana happens to have a particularly impressive wine cellar so guests have ample opportunities to help accumulate the next batch of cork. They’re going to need it folks, so do your best.

Getting there

One of the guests in our party had Priority Pass access, which got us into the Mack Air private lounge at Kasane Airport. Thank you Carole! For once, we weren’t fussed about the possibility of a delay. Cookies, coffee, sandwiches, samosas, chips – need I say more? As it turned out Mack Air was right on time as we had come to expect from them by then. From Kasane to Khwai Private airstrip took about 50 uneventful minutes in a Cessna Caravan. We did have to cool our heels in a shady spot at the airstrip waiting for a helicopter from Helicopter Horizons to show up. It was flaming hot outside – right around 100 F – so there were some smiles when we started to hear the familiar sound of helicopter blades beating the air into submission. It took just about 40 minutes or so in the Bell Longranger helicopter to reach Tawana. There’s no such thing as a quiet helicopter but with each of us wearing a proper headset, we could listen in to some of the pilot’s communication with air traffic control. Flying relatively low over the terrain, we did spot some elephants en route and there was a herd of them close to the camp on our approach. A big plus point for me when evaluating any safari property? Big animals close to camp on arrival. Check. What gets an even higher score? Big animals on arrival at camp preventing you from getting to your room. Of course. 

The camp experience

Tawana is a deluxe property, simply stunning all round with eight huge rooms, an air-conditioned gym and boutique, an air-conditioned wine cellar and there is a small locker in the main area for each room to leave some items behind, instead of lugging them to your room and back every day.  

The rooms at Tawana are huge and there’s plenty of outside decking to boot,  with a good-sized outside plunge pool, an inside shower and bath, and a proper outside shower with a view. From a distance, the exterior views of the suites are reminiscent of the local thatched Batawana huts. The suites are set in the shade of several huge ebony and sausage trees which help to create a cool, calm environment. Some of the trees are also home to a troop of chacma baboons. If there’s any kind of disturbance at night – such as leopards prowling around – the baboons can be quite noisy and disruptive. So to be sure, have some earplugs ready to shut out any unwarranted baboon noise.  

Each room at Tawana has an air cooling unit in the main bedroom portion of the room, right over the bed. The two family rooms have a unit in each bedroom. While it doesn’t cool down the entire room (it would be impractical in a tented environment), the solar operated cooling unit creates ideal sleeping conditions, particularly when the mosquito net is in place, further insulating the space above the bed. In a country like Botswana which has a long hot season – essentially from October through the end of March – having effective air cooling in the sleeping area in a tent makes it possible to take an afternoon nap on a hot summer day. And of course to sleep comfortably at night.  

The ultra-spacious communal areas in the camp include an elegant lounge and indoor and outdoor dining spaces. Our party made good use of the walk-in wine cellar and the wood-fired pizza oven, creating our own delicious pizzas one afternoon. The hospitality at Tawana was simply the best. My vegetarian food requirement was handled deftly, which is not always the case with a plant-based preference. Several members of our party took advantage of the spa and wellness treatments and supported the gift shop. Kathy and I took a walk down to the other side of the camp to check out the 52-foot lap pool and the well-equipped gym.

Game viewing in the Moremi

The game viewing in the Tawana area was excellent and with our capable guide Jonas in charge, we experienced many thrilling encounters, notably with lions and African painted dogs. Setting out on a track which meandered alongside the Gomoti river, we were soon reminded why seasoned African travellers speak so highly of the Moremi Game Reserve. Stretching across nearly 1,900 square miles, the Moremi is a magical corner of Botswana renowned for its high concentration of antelope, predators and large herbivores. 

Drought conditions at the time – subsequently broken by good rain having fallen – created ideal conditions for wildlife activity and interaction along the Gomoti river. We were not just observing mammals and birds, we were seeing them dealing with and reacting to a situation which constituted an existential threat. The many hippo families in the Gomoti river, for example, had to extend their usual ‘night-time only’ grazing habits right into the daylight hours. Simply because palatable grass sources were scarce close to the river, and they had to walk miles and miles every day just to find enough forage to stay alive. From our very first game drive and for the duration of our stay there, seeing so many hippos out of the water in daylight was a reminder of the harsh reality of surviving in nature.  

On two different occasions, we spent time with a large pride of lions (both males and females and several youngsters) and were fortunate to photograph them in good afternoon light. The following afternoon Jonas took us out in search of a coalition of four cheetahs, which had been spotted in the area the previous day. We didn’t find the cheetahs but it didn’t really matter as we came across a large pack of 27 African painted dogs with several puppies around 6 to 8 weeks old. In what was a first for all of us, three or four of the painted dogs were interacting with a young crocodile. Repeatedly darting right up to the inert crocodile, only to swerve away and retreat. Seemingly in an attempt to get the crocodile to turn tail, in which case the painted dogs may have attacked it.  

Yet another exciting encounter came the next day when a territorial fracas between two prides of lions erupted into an intruder female lion pursuing and driving off another female. What made it all worse, from our perspective, was watching the reaction of the four subadult offspring of the retreating, defeated lioness. They ran off into the distance and watched the scene unfold, clearly anxious and sensing that this did not bode well for them. 

Seeing that he’s just visited Tawana, do get in touch with Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for up to date information about Tawana and the many other Natural Selection Safaris properties which we can book for you in Botswana. Natural Selections now have an enviable portfolio of safari properties in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia and we know just how to combine some of them in the best possible way. There are some attractive shoulder season offers as well as long-stay incentives. If you prefer, leave us a message at 1-800-513-5222 and we’ll get back to you promptly.  

Tawana dining area and exterior suite photos courtesy Tawana

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