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Uganda

Uganda: People, Primates And The ‘Old Africa’ Vibe

28th July 2022

Uganda: People, Primates And The ‘Old Africa’ Vibe

My one-word review of Uganda? Vivid. Just like it says in the dictionary: Intensely deep and bright and producing powerful feelings and strong, clear images. There’s nothing standard, neutral or monochrome about Uganda. It is larger than life, bursting with energy, color and vitality, with simply spectacular diversity on every level: the people, the countryside, the animals and birds and of course the primates.

On my Uganda trip in March this year, I was particularly blown away by the beautiful scenery, the chimpanzees (at both Kibale and Kyaninga), and – no surprise – the gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Most of all though, the friendliness and spontaneity of the people shone through, just like on my first visit, some ten years ago. Some things never change. Something that was different? The roads were much better – what a relief!

The ‘old Africa’ vibe
I was pleased to still experience the ‘old Africa’ vibe in Uganda on this trip, just like the first time. While change and progress are no doubt underway, Uganda still feels like Africa of 30 years ago. It is gracious and slower paced, with none of the frenetic feeling of some African safari destinations where game drives have taken on the tenor of a competitive sport.

In Uganda you can still expect to show up at a small coastal property only to find out that the gate is locked and the only person with a key is nowhere to be found. What to do? Nothing, really. Just cool your heels, get your binoculars and do a bit of birding while you wait. In Uganda, a situation like this is handled without rancor, without finger-pointing and without recrimination. Twenty minutes later, the key is located and you are welcomed to the property as if nothing had happened.

Uganda’s old Africa vibe extends into the most unlikely of places. On a hike to see the chimpanzees of Kyaninga Gorge, we came across what was the most rickety pedestrian bridge I have ever seen. The prospect of using it to cross a river was downright scary with big gaps between some cross-slats and others clearly not securely nailed down. The repairs should have been attended to months earlier. We asked about it, but never received a satisfactory reply. Apparently, even a relatively simple task that should take no more than a few hours – like that one – can turn into a bureaucratic marathon in Uganda. Particularly if the matter to be dealt with is inside a national park, in this case Queen Elizabeth National Park. In the Africa of old, nothing happens quickly when there is one or more government departments involved.

In the main and regardless of minor inconveniences like these, encountering the old Africa vibe is a good thing. It goes hand in hand with the country being largely undiscovered by hordes of travelers. In more than two weeks of traveling across Uganda and visiting several national parks, we could count the number of other tourist vehicles we observed on one hand. Admittedly, it was the low season but even in peak season, the visitor density remains extraordinarily low by any standard.

Stray even a little bit off the main routes in Uganda, and you slip into a world where foreign visitors become the focus of attention simply because of the novelty factor. American and other visitors are so rarely seen in many rural areas of Uganda that a passing ‘tourist vehicle’ – usually a Toyota Landcruiser – will bring smiling kids running down the hills and towards the road, waving wildly and exuberantly shouting words of welcome. “Msungu, Msungu!” No, it doesn’t exactly translate to ‘welcome’ but it’s close… While visiting a small village in Kidepo – Karamoja – in search of an authentic cultural experience, the tables were turned. It was us – the visitors from abroad – who turned out to be scrutinized more than anything else. I was worried about feeling awkward and being intrusive visiting their village and observing them, but as it turned out we were the ones on display.

Of course, we did learn more about the people and their lifestyle and it was altogether fascinating. A remote Uganda village like this one is as real as it gets. There is not an ounce of artifice or pretense. Entering one of the homes of the Karamoja families was a powerful experience for people like us, coming from such an unthinkably privileged background, in comparison with their reality. The home was a rough clay hut which contained a rudimentary kitchen (essentially a wood-burning fire pit), an in-home granary and a hand-cranked grinding mill for flour. The bedroom was little more than a patch of floor with a couple of roughly tanned cow-leather hides. The hut was claustrophobic and smoky to the point of distraction. Almost unimaginably basic for visitors who spend their days in air conditioned comfort and who complain about having 4G signal rather than 5G.

The chimps of Kibale and Kyaninga
So many places and experiences vie for the ‘best of the best’ award on a Uganda trip. I think for me, this time, it was undoubtedly the chimpanzees. On my first trip to Uganda some 10 years ago, I struggled mightily to see them well. In Kibale Forest we were literally running after them and they were mostly just dark blobs high up against the tree canopy. This time around? Totally the opposite. We could not have asked for better sightings of the chimps at Kibale and also – unexpectedly – at Kyaninga Gorge. I came away from this trip with literally dozens of good chimpanzee photographs. Any visitor – particularly one keen on photography – would have been thrilled with the experience. My advice? Spend 3 nights in the Kibale Forest area and do back to back chimp treks. At ‘just’ $200 the chimpanzee trekking permit is the best primate viewing deal going. And with two treks you’ll have a bit of insurance if one of the two outings don’t live up to expectations because of uncooperative chimps or bad weather.

The mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
A close second for ‘best of the best’ honors? The gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. We trekked the Habinyanja family group in the Buhoma sector of the park, from Gorilla Forest Camp. I rated the hike as tough but doable by most people with good mobility and a degree of stamina. Certainly the effort was worth the results which were superb views – in a small clearing in broad daylight – of about 10 or so members of the family of just over 20 in total. Most extraordinarily, we were witnesses to the silverback gorilla mating with one of the female members of the troop. Right in front of us. I later spoke to Phil Ward, a long-time director of Uganda-based Classic Africa Safaris who said that he had never witnessed anything like this in the many dozens of gorilla treks which he’s been part of over the years in both Rwanda and Uganda. Special indeed.

Hiking the Ivy Trail from Buhoma to Nkuringo
Another memorable activity was the 4-hour Ivy Trail hike within Bwindi impenetrable forest, from Buhoma to the southern Nkuringo sector. As I remarked to Classic Africa Safaris’ Lyndsay Harshman, who accompanied us for much of the trip, a walk through a gorgeous primary forest like this one, is a tonic for the soul. Although it was muddy – good boots essential – the first part of the trail was really more of a stroll through a beautiful forest than a serious hike. The environment was spectacular with giant trees shielding us from direct light, creating the typical interior forest gloom. The soft light with few shadows is perfect for photography. Towards the end of the hike the trail goes steadily uphill and at that altitude, in excess of 6,000 feet above sea level, you will be huffing and puffing, no doubt. But all good, as the next stop – for us – was the simply divine Cloud’s Lodge. Which has one of the most stupendous views of any property in Africa.

Outing to the top of Murchison Falls
Visiting the top of Murchison Falls is probably one of the most underrated experiences in Uganda. This was my second time seeing it, and it was no less impressive. Being this close to the fury of the entire Nile River exploding through a narrow gap in a rocky gorge is just flat-out amazing! I marveled at the fantastic power of nature in this raw and 100% unspoiled display of force and violence. It gets better and better as you get closer to the top – observing mountains of water crashing downwards with a thunderous roar is mesmerizing. One viewpoint is better than the next; there are some overlook points with superb views over the adjacent Uhuru Falls as well. I really rate this experience to be every bit as impressive as Victoria Falls. It is very different though as there is no huge curtain of water and the drop itself is not that high. However it is the proximity and the unbelievable force that practically shakes the rocks you are standing on, that does it for me. Emerging at the top, after a quick drenching from the spray at the Devil’s Cauldron overlook, we were greeted by a couple of rangers. There was almost nobody else around. No curio sellers, no soft-drink dispensers, just the powerful sound of the water behind and below you.

Boat ride to the Nile River Delta
I had previously done an outing on the Nile River following pretty much the same route which we did this time. I had forgotten just how fascinating and amazing an outing it was. This time around, we missed seeing a Shoebill Stork due to the water in the river being too high, displacing the Shoebill habitat which is essentially small islands of floating vegetation. Did it matter? Hardly. If you have a camera in your hand, a love of nature and particularly if you are keen to see some of Africa’s most spectacular birds, the two hours or so on the Nile River cruise fly by like minutes. It is hands down one of the best bird-watching experiences in East Africa with a stellar array of species to be seen, a highlight being the spectacular kingfishers. Sometimes one may see as many as four different kingfishers on the outing, including the Giant, Pied, Malachite and Grey-headed Kingfishers. There’s herons, egrets, lapwings, weavers, bee-eaters, jacanas – to mention but a few. Finding a majestic African Fish Eagle is very much on the cards here, maybe even an osprey. With a skilled skipper which we had on the boat operated by Wild Frontiers, we had multiple opportunities to get really close to most of the birds and you don’t have to have a telephoto lens to make some beautiful images.

Kidepo National Park
Kidepo National Park is a singularly beautiful part of Uganda, tucked into the far north-eastern corner of the country, in a hilly region where the borders of Uganda, South Sudan and Kenya intersect. Kidepo’s Narus Valley may very well be the prettiest place I’ve ever been to in Africa. Great big blue skies, craggy mountains and well-defined hills rolling towards the north. A vast open expanse of grassland with thorny acacias, sausage trees and others scattered all over, turn the Narus valley into a picture perfect African savannah. Seeking the grandeur of Africa? Look no further. This is it.

Even more so than elsewhere in Uganda, Kidepo is the Africa of old with few people and lots of animals, all essentially yours to find and admire in a landscape which could not be more striking. Every day, every outing unveiled more and better views. Noticeably, the concentration of wildlife was markedly higher in the Narus Valley than elsewhere in Kidepo. There were literally thousands of buffalo around, practically anywhere we drove – or walked. It was easy to see why. Located at the bottom of the valley, the Narus River annually floods much of the area and during the long dry season it is a lifeline for much of the wildlife of the area, being the only source of permanent water in the valley.

Unlike much of the Karamoja region which has sandy soils, the Narus valley soils are loamy and retain water well into the dry season, particularly in the extensive swamps and pools along the river. As a result, there is an abundance of wildlife to be seen. On our game drives in the area we were hardly ever out of sight of buffaloes, and a good variety of other plains game such as zebras, hartebeest, waterbuck, oribi and giraffes. We also enjoyed a few great sightings of the rare Pata’s monkeys, a primate adapted to life in a savannah environment.

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Where to go on safari in 2022-23

19th November 2021

Where to go on safari in 2022-23

As the Covid pandemic retreats worldwide, thoughts turn to resuming life the way we once did, filled with family, friends, togetherness – and travel.

Picking up where we left off around March of 2020, we can once again dream and plan on visiting foreign shores.

As and when travelers resume planning trips to Africa, they soon find out that there are dozens of safari destinations and hundreds of combinations of camps and activities.

Fortunately, there are just a few golden rules for a happy and successful safari trip:

* Spend more time in fewer locations. Now more than ever it makes sense to take a single country trip with fewer, longer stops.

* If you have a good guide you can have a great safari almost anywhere, anytime.

* Smaller is always better than bigger when it comes to group size and camp size.

* You almost always get what you pay for; in the case of a good safari it is prime location, small camp, good guiding, privacy (private concessions, private guide & vehicle), all-inclusive pricing and an all-round quality experience with no unpleasant surprises.

Here are a few destinations we visited recently and which we think hold great appeal for the next couple of years, for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, all of these destinations are suitable for a single country trip, reducing the number of potential Covid tests and lessening the burden of entry formalities and hassles associated with border crossings.

ZIMBABWE
Zimbabwe’s three prime game-viewing areas namely Hwange, Matusadona (Lake Kariba) and Mana Pools make a truly unbeatable safari combination with as much diversity as just about any other safari destination. You’d have to fly between some areas but even with the inclusion of flights, 10 days split between these three areas in the high season is still going to be 50% less than comparable camps in Botswana.

Start your trip in Victoria Falls for the views and an extraordinary range of adventure activities and consider including the Matobos for rhino viewing, terrific scenery, culture and history.

Zimbabwe is a classic African safari destination with excellent game-viewing, headlined by the presence of thousands of elephants in all of the major national parks, most notably Hwange which has in excess of 30,000 elephants. Add to that buffaloes, eland, plenty of giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, special antelopes such as roan and sable and a good variety of cats and you end up with a first-class game-viewing destination.

KENYA
There is simply nowhere better for a first safari than Kenya. Why? Diversity of habitats, abundance of animals and wide-open plains making game-viewing relatively easy and rewarding. Add to that a well-functioning tourism infrastructure, super-friendly people and a wide range of accommodations catering to every taste and budget. Kenya is easy to get to from the USA via Europe or the Middle East, or on a non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi on Kenya Airways, currently operating several days per week.

I would be very hard pressed to think of a 10-day safari that offers nearly as much to see and experience as a combination of Amboseli (no place better for elephants & views of Kilimanjaro); Lewa or Samburu (spectacular endemics such as Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy’s Zebra & beautiful ‘out of Africa’ views) and the Masai Mara, for simply the best game-viewing in Africa. This can be done on a fly-in basis with any start date. Shoulder months such as June and November offer excellent value for money.

WESTERN TANZANIA AND THE SERENGETI
Prefer to be away from the ‘maddening crowds’ and able to handle some long flights and the occasional bit of discomfort in pursuit of authenticity and excitement? If so, then Tanzania and specifically a combination of the Serengeti, Tarangire and Katavi National Park in far western Tanzania would be ideal.

What to expect? Mostly small, remote camps with few other people, excellent game-viewing and superb birding plus simply the best chimpanzee treks in all of Africa, at Mahale Mountains National Park. The addition of a few days in Katavi National Park elevates this from a great trip to an outstanding one. This remote park is an unvarnished slice of African wilderness where the dry season pushes its large hippo population to the limits of endurance. Big herds of buffalo, elephant, plenty of predators – Katavi has it all and there’s few other people around.

The ideal itinerary for this combination would have 4 or 5 nights in the Serengeti (which can be split between the northern and central region), 3 nights at Greystoke Camp in the Mahale Mountains National Park and 4 nights at Chada Katavi. Stay a little longer by adding a couple of nights at Ngorongoro Crater at the start of the trip.

SOUTHERN TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR
For another remote and very private Africa experience, I would recommend a combination of 4 nights in the Ruaha National Park in south-central Tanzania (Nomad’s Kigelia, Asilia’s Kwihala or Jabala Ridge or Mwagusi Camp) plus one or two camps in the Selous Game Reserve (Sand Rivers – sublime) and perhaps Beho-Beho (on our Groundhog Day list). And then add a few days in Zanzibar at the end, a combination of Stone Town and one of the beach resorts. If pressed for time, a couple of nights in Stone Town would suffice as long as you include a half day walking tour of Stone Town (must do) and possibly an outing to Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Red Colobus monkeys and the Mangroves. The Spice Tour is a bit touristy but highly entertaining and educational.

ZAMBIA
Zambia is huge and with three premier safari areas – South Luangwa, Lower Zambezi and Kafue – it has an amazing diversity of scenery, habitat and activities. Walking is central to the experience everywhere yet it isn’t forced or mandatory. They do the walking excursions mostly early in the morning as it can and does get hot later in the day.

Some of the best areas in Zambia like the Kafue and Lower Zambezi are considerably better later in the dry season, so my recommendation would be to travel there from July through October. It does get hot and dry then but definitely worth it for the concentration of elephants and other wildlife, close to water.

In terms of game-viewing, the highlights in the Kafue National Park include lions and leopards. The latter are well represented at Musekese Camp (which we highly recommend visiting) where there are 17 leopards in the area just around the camp. On a visit earlier this year, we saw two females interacting which is highly unusual. All the leopards have individual designations and their behavior and distribution and relationships are intensively studied.

The South Luangwa National Park is also known for an abundance of leopards plus good elephant numbers, giraffe, zebra and of course hundreds of hippos along the Luangwa river. There are multiple thousands of hippos on the Luangwa so you are almost never quite out of hearing distance of their booming snorts and honking. We are partial to the Shenton camps (Kaingo and Mwamba) as well as the Bushcamp Company and Time & Tide properties. They all offer a slightly different experience – depending on location and season – but all are excellent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park offers a distinctively different experience and setting, with most of the camps located on the banks of the Zambezi. So in addition to game drives (day and early evening), you can also do boating and canoeing, as well as walking. From August onwards the seeds of the Winterthorn trees start to drop, which attracts dozens of elephants day and night. The pods are like candy to them. This is best seen and experienced at the camps west of Jeki Airstrip, being Old Mondoro, the Tusk & Mane camps and Anabezi.

The area around Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi is impossibly atmospheric and there is just nowhere else like it. Tusk and Mane’s Kutali and Chula camps are rustic with bucket showers (having proper flush toilets) but the experience is as ‘classic safari’ as it gets.

The canoeing experience on the Lower Zambezi is amazing as well. We saw about 50 hippos on a three hour canoe outing and elephants crossed the channel in front of us and behind us. All in all an action packed outing with a few jolts of adrenaline here and there, yet I felt quite safe due to the expert guiding. Boating on the Kafue and the Zambezi rivers adds yet another facet to the Zambia experience. The two rivers are so different yet I found both of them to be fascinating given the immense flow of water and the importance they have to the wildlife areas in Zambia.

At any time of the year, the vehicle density in Zambia – except in the Mfuwe area – is lower than anywhere else. The camps are really small, mostly with just 4 or 5 tents. In areas like the Lower Zambezi and Kafue the experience is like being on your own private African safari.

BOTSWANA
I have not changed my mind about Botswana being among the very best safari destinations of any. On a recent trip which included Chief’s Island in the Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, we again experienced Botswana’s abundance of wildlife, beautiful scenery and friendly people.

On our very first game drive out of Chief’s Camp we saw African painted dogs, lions and cheetahs. That set the pace for the entire trip, with buffaloes on our arrival at Eagle Island Lodge, a couple of baby leopards there, interaction between two sets of male lions at Xigera Safari Camp and ending with a mother and baby pair of white rhinos at Dinaka, in the Kalahari. And of course all the plains game including plentiful giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, lechwes, gemsbok, springbok, tsessebe, steenbok, a myriad of hippos and more.

Botswana has gotten quite pricey – especially from June through the end of October (high season), but you don’t have to spend weeks here to have a fantastic time on safari. Seven to nine nights total on safari is more than adequate. For a longer trip, add on a few days in Zimbabwe or South Africa. To keep the price manageable, consider going in the low-demand season, from November through the end of March. If you spend a bit more time in fewer areas (to give yourself a little more time and opportunity to find some of the elusive species like leopards and cheetahs), it can be every bit as good as the high season.

Some visitors – notably photographers – consider the low season to be the best time of the year, bar none. Why? There are lots of baby animals around (notably hundreds of baby impalas) which stimulates predator activity. Just about every day, you will experience gorgeous sunrises and sunsets due to the presence of some clouds. There are many bird species in breeding plumage, and lots of summer migrant bird species present, including the strident woodland kingfisher, several species of shrikes, bee-eaters, orioles, wading birds, birds of prey and many more. The animals are generally in good condition at this time of the year due to abundant food sources, and the green vegetation creates beautiful backdrops. The bottom line? Travel to Botswana in the low demand season and enjoy superb game-viewing and exceptionally good photography conditions at much lower prices, with far fewer other visitors around. Call or email us for information about several superb low-demand season trip itineraries and cost estimates.

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Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda

5th November 2020

Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda


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Gorilla trekking in Uganda and Rwanda

GORILLA TREKKING IN BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST, UGANDA

The night before my first ever gorilla trek in the Nkuringo sector of Bwindi National Park in Uganda, I did not sleep well.  Excitement, anticipation, maybe a little bit of apprehension. Who knows. All of the traveling to get there, the thought of seeing the gorillas close up, the realization that I would have just one precious hour with them. Thoughts about cameras and lenses, light and shade, f-stops and ISO settings. It all got to be a bit much and kept my brain synapses firing long after I should’ve been asleep.


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By the time we arrived at the trailhead the next morning, I was completely lost in my thoughts, lagging behind the other four persons who would be trekking the same gorilla group that morning. Just then, three cold little hands suddenly gripped mine, two on the left and one on the right. Totally spontaneously three little Uganda boys – one set of twins and a slightly older friend – had decided that I needed some company and maybe a sympathetic face to look up at me. No question, I did. Their timing was perfect and although I couldn’t understand a word they were saying, their gentle touch and their sparkling eyes said it all: “Don’t worry mzungu, you’re going to be just fine. Relax, give that heavy bag to a porter and don’t fret so much about the photographs. Just enjoy the experience!”


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Barely an hour later, our small group were face to face with the most impressive big apes still to be found wandering this earth: the gentle giants who inhabit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and a few other patches of similar habitat in neighboring Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The Mountain Gorilla. There are only about 1,000 of these great apes left in the wild, so it is an awesome experience – in the old-fashioned sense of the word – to behold them right there in front of you, stuffing their faces with big handfuls of leaves, clearly relishing every ounce of the approximately 40 pounds pounds of food they consume every day.


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The gorilla trek in Uganda took place in the Nkuringo (southern) sector of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.  It is no mystery why a British colonial official added ‘Impenetrable’ to the name of the existing Crown Forest Reserve, almost a hundred years ago now.  It is a thick curtain of green, with extensive stands of bamboo interspersed among large forest hardwoods. The bamboo and a dense ground cover of ferns, vines, and other plants make it heavy-going for anybody on foot.  On the day of our visit, we had to walk down from the trailhead, negotiating a steep slope. Even though the gorillas were relatively close by, it would entail some scrambling down an ill-defined path to get to them. Fortunately, we each had a porter to help with an assist where needed and with a hand to reach out for, when gravity won out. 


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Eventually, we got very close to the gorillas but photography was difficult: they kept turning their backs on us or dodging behind the vegetation – inadvertently one assumes. I did not have the right photo equipment for a gorilla trek. My 200-400 zoom lens was too much glass and too heavy; I could barely pick it up towards the end. My other lens – a 28-70mm zoom lens was just a little on the short side. The ideal lens would be a fast zoom in the 70-200mm or 100-400mm range.


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GORILLA TREKKING IN VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, RWANDA

Our subsequent gorilla treks in Rwanda, at Volcanoes National Park, were considerably easier, with less in the way of steep up or downhills.  Even so, it involved quite a long walk with some pretty rough spots towards the end, close to where the gorillas were.  On both our Rwanda treks, it took about one hour, from the trailhead, to get close to where the gorillas were. To be sure, not too strenuous a hike, nothing like the slopes of Bwindi.  The first time around, our designated gorilla family was in a wide open area and I would have gotten some great photographs – if the weather had played along. All went well until about 10 minutes before we got to the gorilla group, when the rain came.  It never let up, in fact it got worse. I took a few quick shots and then stowed my camera and lens.  I did not want to risk potentially serious damage to the optical equipment – there was just too much water around. Just as well.  Someone else in the group (a dentist from Sheffield, England) had two cameras seize up on him. Even so it was a great experience. Rainy conditions or not, we marveled at the proximity to those magnificent animals. Of course, they were affected by the rain also, mostly just patiently sitting there, waiting for it to end.


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On our second gorilla trek at Volcanoes, we were allocated to the Kwitonda family group.  As it turned out, we were fortunate to see about 15 to 17 individuals – all gathered in a clearing in the forest.  For the better part of an hour we observed them feeding, playing, resting – and resting some more.  A couple of youngsters were gamboling around, tumbling, jumping, chest-thumping and climbing onto high spots, playing ‘king of the castle’.

A female was nursing her baby, yet another female was cradling her 3-month old baby protectively, and the #2 silverback male was in a pensive mood, posing for a series of ‘selfies’ with excited visitors positioning themselves between a camera and the gorilla, for the obligatory Facebook or Instagram pic.


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As the hour slipped by all too quickly, we watched this ‘slice of life’ portion of ‘a day in the life of a gorilla family’ daily existence, in awe and fascination.  It was easy to imagine that almost all of their days in this beautiful sanctuary were spent in the same bucolic fashion, surrounded by family members while enjoying tasty bamboo shoots, as well as leaves, stems and fruits of many other plant species.

It became perfectly clear to me why these stunning animals are as universally revered and sought after as they are.  They are undeniably at the pinnacle of the animal world, the very embodiment of the most special thing that can be lost, if global wildlife conservation attempts fail.


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A few gorilla trekking hints and observations:

  • Try to maintain a distance of about 20 feet between yourself and the gorillas; the further back you are, the more relaxed the group will be.  And the lower the likelihood of any diseases being transmitted from human to gorilla. 
  • Always keep your voice down. However, it is okay to ask the guide questions. Do not smoke, drink or eat when you are near the gorillas as this might inevitably increase the risk of food/drink droplets falling and increase the risk of transmission of diseases.
  • Flash photography is not permitted – when taking pictures move slowly and carefully so as not to alarm or disturb the animals.
  • Do not touch the gorillas – they are wild animals.  They are habituated to the presence of humans but could become agitated or even aggressive when provoked.   
  • The gorillas live at an altitude of about 8,000 to as high as 13,000 feet above sea level.  So pace yourself, particularly on the hike up to the first point of contact.  Walk slowly.  You will hear your guides use a Swahili phrase:  ‘pole, pole!’  Pronounced ‘POE-lay POE-lay’ it simply means ‘slowly slowly’.  
  • Two gorilla treks are always better than one, particularly for keen photographers and videographers.  There’s a chance of one outing being negatively affected by weather (rain or poor visibility due to mist/fog), or by the gorillas being obscured by thick vegetation or in difficult terrain.  Also, no two outings are the same or even similar.  The make-up of the gorilla groups is different, some with more babies and youngsters, others with more silverbacks, so you are unlikely to experience ‘more of the same’.  Each day and each trek is different, with unique behavior, setting and interaction.  So if you do have the means and time at your disposal, stay a bit longer and do a second trek.  
  • Be sure to hire a porter – again two being better than one – to assist you with carrying your stuff and with negotiating tricky or muddy terrain.  At about US$20 per porter for the duration of the trek, you will have a much more enjoyable time and you will be making a direct contribution to the well-being of the local community.


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In our blog post next Friday, we will focus on our favorite big cat:  the cheetah.  We will highlight a few of the best places to find them in Africa, the best time to travel to maximise the chances of encountering them, and some general hints to make the most of your viewing and photography of these rare, special cats.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

5th November 2020

Chimpanzee trekking in Africa


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Chimpanzee trekking in Africa

As a child growing up in South Africa I had no concept of chimpanzees as wild animals. Even well into my teens – by which time I had seen and admired many large mammals in the Kruger National Park – chimpanzees were at best caricatures of real, wild animals. They were movie stars or advertising props, or used to entertain gullible people at circuses or carnivals.


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It was not until many years later that I came to know that chimpanzees used in the entertainment industry are invariably babies or youngsters. Around age eight they become practically impossible to control and can no longer be relied upon to perform their unnatural learned tricks such as walking upright or riding a little tricycle. At that point their future becomes even more grim than their past.


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So when I saw my first wild chimpanzees in Uganda many years later, it was a jaw-dropping experience. I could hardly believe it. Chimpanzees were real. Here, right in front of me, were several of them practically tumbling down a high tree, crashing through the vegetation and unleashing the weirdest spectrum of noise and sound. The most telling moment was when one chimpanzee hopped onto an horizontal branch and looked straight at me.  Or maybe at the person next to me.  I felt an instant sense of connection, like locking eyes with another human being.  It felt strange and somewhat unsettling, but perhaps not surprising, given the  close relationship between chimpanzees and humans.   Humans share about 99% of our DNA with chimpanzees, making them our closest living relatives.


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Over the years, we’ve done several chimpanzee treks in Uganda (in three different areas), as well as in the Nyungwe Forest area in Rwanda, and most successfully of all, out of Greystoke Mahale in the Mahale Mountains National Park in western Tanzania.


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Budongo Forest Reserve, Uganda

My very first chimpanzee trek was in Uganda’s Budongo Forest Reserve.  Budongo Forest Reserve is a beautiful rainforest location with incredible biodiversity,  including nine different species of primates, 360 species of birds, over 290 different types of butterflies and some of the oldest trees in Uganda. In retrospect, the chimp trek at Budongo seemed a lot less of an ‘effort’ than elsewhere.  Perhaps we were just lucky on the day.  After a walk of less than 2 miles over fairly even terrain, along a rudimentary trail, we came upon a small group of chimpanzees.  Hearing them before seeing them, as is almost always the case.   They  were initially up in the trees, but not for long.


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Soon enough, our small party of travelers were fortunate to see one individual seemingly posing for the cameras, on a horizontal branch in a small clearing. I did not have the right lens otherwise I might have had some really good chimp pics!  My short zoom lens was just not enough; a 70-200 or 100-400 zoom would both have been better choices.  At one stage several of the chimps literally ‘fell’ from the trees, grasping one or two seemingly flimsy twigs as they came crashing down. You don’t see that kind of stuff in the movies! It was simply awesome!


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Budongo Forest can be included on any Murchison Falls itinerary, probably best at the end of the segment, before returning to Entebbe/Kampala. The night prior to the chimp trek at Budongo we slept at Budongo Eco Lodge, a very pleasant ‘no frills’ lodge right on the edge of the forest. The big advantage of staying here is that you can walk literally right out of the lodge, to the start of a chimpanzee trek or birdwatching outing. No additional driving involved.


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Kibale Forest, Uganda

A day or so later, on the same Uganda trip, we trekked for chimps at Kibale Forest.  While the ‘success rate’ for seeing chimps at Kibali is quite high – more than 90% – chimpanzees are mostly arboreal and often fast-moving.  Which means that sometimes you will only catch a few glimpses of them as they  scurry from branch to branch, well hidden in thick vegetation, high in a tree.  Which is mostly what happened to us on this day.  It turned out to be a frustrating and ultimately rather disappointing outing. There was a lot of hiking involved. We trudged around this admittedly beautiful forest for nearly three hours without actually getting any really good looks at the chimps. There were a few of them scampering around the tree-tops but with no unobstructed views or any chance at photography, we all felt a bit  glum at the end of the proceedings.


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On the way back to the lodge – in the vehicles – we spotted some chimps in the trees and got some decent looks at several of them descending to the forest floor. We tried to get some better looks by following them into the undergrowth but it was not to be…


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On a later visit to Kibale two members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team had only slightly better luck with the chimps.  The temperature was mild and we were fortunate to have some cloud cover. Upon entering the park, we met some of the guides for a pre-hike briefing. We learned a couple of useful tips, for example, that there are ants in the forest and it is highly recommended that you roll your socks over your pants to prevent the ants from biting your ankles while you’re looking up at  the chimps. On the day, there were two groups of 6 trekkers, each having one guide and any number of porters to carry your gear.  Getting a porter is highly recommended since you need to carry your own water. The forest itself was very thick but the paths were well defined and the terrain was quite flat and easy.


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Almost immediately the guide spotted a female chimpanzee with a baby, high up in a tree. They were feeding on a fig tree but apparently the fruit was not quite ripe yet. The chimps were difficult to see at that height due to the dense foliage, and after a few minutes we moved on. The guide knew the location of other fig trees so we traveled to the edge of the forest to see if we couldn’t find a larger troupe. No luck there.  Fortunately, word came by radio that the other group had spotted some chimps a short distance away. Off we went.  Since the sun had not really come out during the day the chimps were still in the trees where it was cool. This made for poor visibility but with some patience we managed to get some useful photos. Overall the Kibale experience was good – the success rate for spotting chimps is quite high. Visitors are only allowed one hour with the chimps and it goes by fast.


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Kyambura Gorge, Uganda

Our third chimp trekking outing in Uganda was at Kyambura Gorge. At Kyambura the maximum group size is up to 8 and the guides are armed. There are fewer chimps in the gorge than at Kibale, but it is a much smaller area.  The success rate is solid – if not not quite as good as at Kibale.


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After another briefing from the guides we set off into the gorge. The decline is extremely sharp and you really need some good solid hiking boots. There is a river in the middle of the gorge with paths running along both shores and a bridge connecting them. Luckily for us when we got to the bottom we immediately heard the chimps and our guide lead us straight to them. We spotted a large 35 year old male on the ground and proceeded to follow him as best we could. He would walk for a while and stop and glance at us and then continue his walk. He wasn’t distressed at all by our presence. Eventually he stopped and our entire group caught up so we were all able to take photos. Strangely, though, the chimp doubled back and actually wound up walking past us at close range (about a foot) which worried our guide. Thankfully he just passed right on by.  It was an  incredible sighting.


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Mahale Mountains, Tanzania

Greystoke Mahale is tucked into a narrow sandy strip along the edge of Lake Tanganyika, below the densely forested Mahale Mountains with the mountains of the Democratic Republic of Congo visible about 30 miles across the lake. The mountain and the lake.  Most people would be hard pressed to pick a favorite or decide which of the two is the most dominant feature. They are both equally impressive and both essential to the Greystoke experience.


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Mahale is best known as a sanctuary and research area for a group of about 60 habituated chimpanzees, plus several hundred more wild ones which inhabit the national park. Having trekked for chimpanzees previously in three different areas of Uganda I can say that the Mahale experience was by far the best I have experienced. The chimps are very well habituated and hence very tolerant of humans being close to them. The leafy ever-green forest habitat is superb and makes for a perfect backdrop. If you’ve never seen chimps before and want to do so, or if they are your favorite animals, a visit to the Mahale Mountains National Park should definitely be on your short list.


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Even if there were no chimpanzees here it would be a more than worthwhile destination. Amazing views, the super deep-water swimming opportunities, fishing, kayaking, birding, hiking – the area has it all and more. We spent quite a bit of time boating (on a motorized dhow) but it is also possible to just relax and take it easy. The beach at Greystoke rivals many a coastal resort area, with the prettiest lake imaginable spilling out onto a white sandy beach. 

On our first afternoon we spent 30 minutes or so suspended in what is estimated to be 17% of all of the freshwater in the entire world. Lake Tanganyika is one of the world’s cleanest lakes due to the absence of industry, and that is not likely to change soon.


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The following day we woke up to what promised to be another warm and rather muggy morning on the shore of Lake Tanganyika. And so it was.  At breakfast at 08:00A we were informed that the chimpanzees – our focus for the day – had been sighted and that they were about one hour’s ‘gentle walk’ away. So off we went single file into the forest up and down but mostly just up and often rather steeply so. We went through a couple of dry rocky streams with a little water here and there, sometimes scrambling up a slope, other times crouching beneath some low branches.


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We stopped a couple of times for water (you carry your own water bottle & the guides provide re-fills) and to take a breath of air. Without exception, we were sweating heavily and feeling the strain of two days’ worth of solid exercise.

As we approached their position, we could hear the chimps long before we saw them. They were being very loud, making a range of sounds including some exuberant whoops and screams. And then, without much introduction, there they were. First one chimp high in a tree, then another one sliding down a tree stump and soon enough there were seven or eight of them visible in every direction.  By then we had donned surgical masks to prevent the transmission of colds and other human ailments to the chimps.


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Over the next hour or so we moved positions several times as the chimps either descended from or ascended into the trees. We observed quite a bit of interaction between individuals: young and old, they all apparently know their place and respect authority.

We could see the chimps very well but photographic conditions were not great. Low light inside the forest gallery, and severe backlighting issues against the bright sky. Several of the younger chimps did their best to show off their acrobatic skills but in the poor light and with limited visibility (too many leaves and twigs!) it was just about impossible to capture the action. I did manage a few decent portraits and some limited interaction, mostly feeding and grooming.


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Every now and then we’d follow one or two of the chimps along one of the many footpaths in the forest. Our guide Robert knew all the chimps by name, sex, age and rank, and gave us ample warning when a ‘naughty’ individual was close by. We observed individuals of all ages ranging from about 6 months to well over 50 years. They were mostly quiet and not very demonstrative.

When our allotted 1-hour viewing time was over, we lowered the cameras, took a last look at the chimps who were moving into thicker bush and re-grouped a short distance away to have a drink of water. It was a happy group of campers who trudged back to the lodge. We were all very tired, perhaps even a bit dehydrated because of the heavy exertion in the hot humid conditions… Nobody cared – we had seen the chimps!

By the time we got back to the lodge just over 3 hours had elapsed since we first set out earlier that morning. It felt great to enjoy a cup of tea before we took the sandy path back to our respective rooms for a much-needed shower.


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Mahale Mountains NP, Tanzania – Trek #2

The following morning’s chimp trek was every bit as much fun and exciting as the previous day. Starting from the Japanese research station, the going was a bit easier than the previous day. Even so, by the time we got onto the chimps, a good 45 minutes had elapsed and it was deja vu all over again. We were hot and sweaty in the humid conditions. Being overcast, the temperature was several degrees lower than the previous day, which helped somewhat.

The following morning’s chimp trek was every bit as much fun and exciting as the previous day. Starting from the Japanese research station, the going was a bit easier than the previous day. Even so, by the time we got onto the chimps, a good 45 minutes had elapsed and it was deja vu all over again. We were hot and sweaty in the humid conditions. Being overcast, the temperature was several degrees lower than the previous day, which helped somewhat.


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It turns out that despite their seemingly idyllic situation, the chimps were far from living in a cocoon of innocence. They are tangled up in political and sexual spats and fights on a never-ending basis, and the maneuvering and plotting can be Machiavellian. Imagine pretending to be removing ectoparasites from a rival, but not doing so in fact. Thus setting up the unwitting beneficiary/victim for a long-lasting negative outcome and potentially debilitating illness.


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For a while there, we became very much part of the troop of chimps, sitting around not far from them, and feeling their glances on us as they casually ambled by. We took great care not to get in the way of some of the ‘naughty boys’ such as Christmas, who is known to charge and scare an unsuspecting tourist every now and then.

An hour or so later we were all quite ready to take off our facemasks and to return to camp for some tea. Just like the previous day, the total duration of the excursion was just over 3 hours.

Here are a few pointers which might be useful for future Mahale chimp trekkers:


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Bert’s Mahale Mountains Chimp Trekking Hints

* It is definitely a good thing to be fit and relatively agile as there is some scrambling (up and down) and rock-stepping to be done.

* In the warmer months dress appropriately (long trousers to protect legs and lightweight long or short-sleeved shirts with good ventilation/absorption). There were no tsetse flies or other biting flies present within the forest interior.

* Good boots with grippy soles are 100% necessary. You could be in for a tough time with the wrong shoes. No flip-flops!

* Light is an issue in the forest interior so to get decent pics of the chimps, bring a fast (f2.8) lens in the 70-200 mm range, and preferably a camera that can produce acceptable images at a high ISO setting. Long telephoto lenses are not essential – you will get closer to the chimps than you might anticipate.

* Drink plenty of water before the start of the trek and also during. Dehydration is a major concern during the warmer months and it can sneak up on you with very little warning.

* Definitely go on more than just one chimp trek as they are all quite different & the chimp behaviour and interaction vary greatly day to day. If you’ve seen one you certainly haven’t seen them all.


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In our blog post next Friday we will be taking a closer look at the big cats of Mashatu Game Reserve in south-eastern Botswana.  This little-known area is nowadays one of the most reliable big cat destinations in Southern Africa with lions, leopards and cheetahs seen by most visitors who spend three or four nights in the area.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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Destinations
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