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Lake Kariba

Lyndon Visits Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba

22nd July 2024

Lyndon Visits Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba

Visitors from North America rarely make it to either Lake Kariba or Matusadona National Park in Zimbabwe, which is too bad. Combined with Victoria Falls and either Hwange or Mana Pools, Lake Kariba adds yet another layer of diversity to the already absorbing Zimbabwean experience. Boat safaris, tiger fishing, lake cruises, foot safaris, birdwatching and now even a sleepout on a luxury yacht will keep you occupied and will provide a nice change of pace from game drives. 

Bumi Hills Lodge

Leaving for Bumi Hills from Victoria Falls in May this year, we were in the smaller Cessna 206 which flies pretty low so we were able to get some good views of Kariba on the approach. From the Bumi Hills airstrip it is a very short distance to get to camp – maybe 10 minutes. We met our guide Max on arrival in camp. The lodge is gorgeous with spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding floodplains. You can see elephants from the main area –  they look tiny. 

Bumi Hills Lodge has numerous activities on offer including game drives and walks as well as a boat cruise or fishing – or most likely a combination. There is a spa  available as well as a 24/7 fitness center. A village visit was also mentioned if guests want to do it. We suggest that it be requested in advance. The main area at Bumi Hills has an infinity pool, likely the best one on the lake. Many a gaze has been directed over the lake from this elevated spot with the pool having been around for decades; the original Bumi Hills Safari Lodge opened in 1975.  

The rooms are as nice as you would expect. All with great views, plenty of space, complete with bath and outdoor shower. African Bush Camps offer essentially a room attendant as well as a personal host to take care of your every need. I really do feel like they work well together and enable you to get the most out of your stay.

Our evening game drive was productive. I did not expect to see the quantity of animals that we did, gathered in the open areas near the lake. Tons of impala as well as zebra, bushbuck, warthogs, and elephants, as well as bird species in high numbers. Sunset was beautiful – even beyond the normally enthralling African sunset. On the way back to camp with the spotlight, we saw a white-tailed mongoose and side-striped jackal. Porcupines live underneath the camp and the staff pointed them out to us just before dinner.

The food was good at Bumi Hills. Lunch was a ‘build your own pizza’ and for dinner we had the choice of lamb chops or stuffed chicken. Of course we both went with lamb. It was good; but Bert’s has it beat by a good margin.

For the morning activity we decided to go fishing. We were looking for bream and vundu (a large variety of catfish) because it is really not a great season for tiger fish. Our first spot was close to where the boat was docked. The area did not seem like it was very active and we quickly moved on. The second spot was another story and we started reeling in bream constantly. They are good fun and while we caught them our guide Max threw out a different line to see if he could snag a vundu. That line finally hit and Christine managed to pull in our first catfish. It was sizable but the species can grow much larger. We are hoping to take another shot at landing a whopper at Changa.

In the afternoon Christine had an hour massage scheduled and while she was busy with that I took a swim in the infinity pool. Simply spectacular views out onto the lake and the water was the perfect temperature. Great place to spend an afternoon!! After this we enjoyed a quick lunch before heading back to the room.

Our evening activity was a sundowner cruise. This time we went with four other people. We started quite late, around 4:00. It took us a little while but we sped out to a spot in the middle of a large number of long dead mopane trees, dating back to when the dam was built in the late 1950s. Around us all types of birds – but predominantly cormorants – were roosting for the night. No predators out here for them in the tall dead trees. The sunset was top notch but overall the activity felt a bit rushed and while it was nice I would only do it the one time.

Nights at Bumi are pretty because you get to see all the commercial boats out on the lake with their lights fishing for small sardine-like fish called kapenta. The boats do not move and use lights to attract the fish to their nets and then periodically lift them. They can do this a total of 4 times give or take during a night. They will then let the fish dry during the day and package them for sale. All the fishermen pay to obtain a license to fish in the lake and it seems like the populations of the different species of fish are being fairly well maintained. With all the lights it looks almost like a floating city and with the elevated views from the lodge it is quite a scene.

Dinner was two delicious curry options, beef or chicken. Dessert was a fabulous passionfruit panna cotta.

Changa Camp

The following morning our flight to Changa was quite early so we just had breakfast before being transferred to the airstrip. We then had a 15-to-20-minute flight to Changa’s airstrip followed by a 25–30-minute transfer to camp. We spotted two huge male buffalo mudbathing as we landed. We met our guide Crispen on arrival. Changa is located inside the Matusadona National Park, unlike Bumi Hills, which is adjacent to it on community land. It is right on the edge of the floodplain overlooking Lake Kariba. A similar variety of activities are offered at both camps.  

I spent a bit of the afternoon in the pool in the main area. The water temperature was cold but very refreshing. I was joined in the distance by a solitary elephant and a hippo that decided to get a head start on dinner. Christine spotted a snake near the restroom, but it slithered off before I could get a look at it. The camp manager had told us that snakes are around but that 99 percent were not venomous.

For our first evening we chose to go take a look at Sanyati Gorge (45 minute to an hour boat ride). It was worthwhile and I would recommend it. The gorge is scenic, very rocky with tall hills surrounding it and lush forests and plants surrounding you. You will see a lot of crocs so if that is something you are interested in this is just the ticket. We ended the activity with a sundowner at the lake before heading back to camp.

Changa is more rustic than Bumi for sure but has its own charm. The main area is a bit sparse but there is a pool and you have a good view of the lake. The rooms are nicer than I was imagining they would be. Outdoor bath and shower available.

For dinner we had pork belly and it was really good. Dessert was a caramel panna cotta. Activities are decided on during dinner the night before. So we decided at dinner that we would like to do an early morning game drive with a packed lunch.  

Morning wake up was at 5:30. Coffee was delivered to the room along with some breakfast rusks. We set off with a packed breakfast to make the most of the cooler morning temperatures. The drive started off slowly as we saw only the occasional antelope, warthog or baboon. Things started picking up as we got a bit further from camp and we started spotting elephants with some regularity as well as zebras which were recently semi-reintroduced by African Parks. Their numbers had been decimated before due to a large lion population and although they were still around their numbers had dwindled. African Parks took over Matusadona in 2019 and have started implementing new conservation practices such as strictly enforcing anti-poaching and reintroducing species that have previously been wiped out.  

Speaking of lions, their numbers have also fallen. When the lake floods many of the prey animals wind up starving to death which is a boon in the short term but long term it forces the lions to rely on hunting hippo or even crocodiles. Their numbers are increasing now though with the plentiful availability of prey species. In fact there is a pride of over 20 lions in the park that have a territory from Changa all the way to the border, the Tshinga River.

One of the highlights was spotting a leopard tortoise hastily making its way across the road. It turtled up when we approached but Crispen turned off the engine and after a little while you could see the head peeking out and sure enough the arms and legs followed. It started to move again but at a much slower pace than before. These guys can live between 250 to 300 years! Assuming they don’t run into the right predator, that is.

By late May the area was still green and there was plenty of food and even water dispersed in the thick bushy areas. This made game viewing tough but as the water dries up and the food gets eaten all of the animals will start to congregate around the lake which should make for a spectacular sight. Even before the dry season had properly set in, there were large herds of antelope and zebra as well as families of elephants at the shoreline or feeding in the floodplains. This year the later stages of the dry season will be especially tough because there was not a lot of rain. The water level of the whole lake is low and it has not been at full capacity since 2013. Hopefully they receive more rain in the coming years.

For our evening activity we tried our luck with some fishing. This activity gets started a little bit later than others so that the winds die down and the lake becomes still. We only had to travel a short while from the camp’s dock to get to our fishing spot. Things started slowly but picked up after the first fish. We wound up with a couple of good-sized bream as well as several ‘squeakers’ which seem to be an invasive species. They look like a type of small catfish with a vicious set of spines that can even be dangerous for crocodiles to eat. We enjoyed a sundowner before heading back to camp.

The following morning we woke up at 5:30am for a game drive. We were out of camp by around 6. Temperatures are cooler in the mornings but not exceptionally so. By midday it got up to the mid 80s. Again we had no luck with predators but enjoyed some marvelous landscapes and plenty of plains game and elephants. As the numbers of plains game continue to increase you can expect a slow increase in the predators as well. As the season continues and the availability of water becomes more scarce the animals will really start to congregate around the lake making for some epic scenes. June and July should bring more moderate temperatures but it will still be drying by September, October and November which could be extraordinary. Albeit possibly at the cost of your sanity with some real extreme heat. Such is life on safari. 

Lyndon is ready to answer any questions you may have about visiting the Matusadona National Park area in Zimbabwe, as well as Hwange and Victoria Falls. He can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling our office any time (irrespective of your time zone) at 1-800-513-5222. Lyndon or Jason will call you back. 

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Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

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We visited several other properties during our recent trip in South Africa and Zimbabwe. Every one of these deserve a detailed review but we will focus on what sets them apart.

SAVANNA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE – SABI SAND

If there is a safari camp which strikes the perfect balance between creature comforts and activities (game drives mostly) this property is it. The rooms are simply exquisite and every little thing is perfect, from the snacks and drinks which are included (the variety!) to the heated plunge pool, the beautiful garden setting, the waterholes on the periphery of the camp, the dining (wow) and the outstanding staff. Did I mention the game-viewing and the guiding? Fantastic. On a morning drive, our guide Jamie and tracker Ronald expertly located a pride of lions and before we knew it, we had seen all of the Big Five mammals.  

At one stage we were watching three female lions seemingly poised to take on an adult buffalo bull with five white rhinos within view just thirty meters to the right. Not 30 minutes later we were following Ravenscourt – a simply gorgeous movie star of a leopard – as he walked in and out of a natural drainage line close to the homestead belonging to the Mackenzie family, who owns Savanna. I think I would be morally obliged to sell my camera equipment if I didn’t get a great leopard shot that morning. Stay a few days and you might find yourself dining in an old railcar dating back to the days of the Selati Railroad, or making a visit to a nearby village which is home to many of the camp staff.

LEOPARD HILLS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

This was my second visit to Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve and if anything, it was even better than the first. The stunning lounge and dining room complex overlooking the woodland and water hole, the superbly appointed rooms and the inviting library and boma complex all brought back fond memories. Our ebullient guide Justin De la Rey imparted knowledge seemingly effortlessly and displayed a well-developed sense of ethics in his careful approach to a leopard den site. Justin and his colleague, expert tracker Ronald Gumede, are a formidable pair. We will definitely be requesting them for future guests. 

The food? Next level. Every meal was outstanding, topped by a singularly memorable boma experience. Head chef Cobus Muller personally introduced the menu and every item exceeded my expectations. Boma meals often disappoint with overcooked, dry meats and mundane side dishes. Not this one. Lamb chops, pork spare ribs, oxtail stew – it was impossible to make a bad choice. The expertly prepared side dishes included traditional South African pap with a tomato sauce, potatoes in a lyonnaise style, cauliflower au gratin, corn on the cob and curried dahl. We could go back just for the food. 

LINKWASHA CAMP, HWANGE

Linkwasha is Wilderness’ flagship tented camp in Hwange National Park, located in a stunning setting of teak forest bordered by open grassland and salt pans in southern Hwange. Our two days there with guide Farai Chuma were packed with excitement as he reintroduced us to the joy and fascination of seeing a true professional wildlife guide in action. 

Always careful and safety conscious, Farai helped us find everything we had come to see, notably cheetahs. Two magnificent male cheetahs gave us the full show. Employing every trick in their playbook, they started off by demonstrating their mutual affection, cuddling up and rubbing their faces together. Which was great, but small potatoes in comparison with what came next. Following each other at about 50 meters or so, the two brothers climbed on anthills, jumped onto logs, scrambled up tree trunks and scent-marked multiple times, several times staring right into my lens. All while Farai had us lined up in just the right spot to capture the action. His knowledge of exactly which specific trees or other objects the cheetahs would use to scent mark was uncanny. We predict great things for Farai – who will hopefully complete the final phase in the process of obtaining his ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guiding license this coming December. We hope to have him guide some of our guests in future.  

MUSANGO SAFARI CAMP, LAKE KARIBA

With long-time owner and story-teller in chief Steve Edwards operating the throttle, Kathy and I and two other guests – from Germany – traversed quite a few kilometers by boat in and out of Musango Safari Camp, tucked away in a dense forest on a private island with views in every direction. Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, the Matusadona mountain range; depending on the light and the time of the day, they create a remarkably photogenic setting. To say that the experience at Musango is multi-layered is to do it a disservice. It is much more than that. By the time we had to say farewell to Steve, Robin and Graham – who is poised to continue the Musango tradition – we felt like we had hardly scratched the surface. It was only on the last day that we were introduced to Steve’s truly incredible collection of stone age tools, preserved organisms (scorpions and more) and simply stunning fossil finds. Most of which Steve had personally collected while tracking black rhinos all over Matusadona National Park.  

Rhino tracking is no longer on the list of Musango activities, but not a whole lot else has changed since Steve and his wife Wendy opened the lodge some 30 years ago.  You can still sit quietly in a special bird hide in the forest, waiting for colorful birds to hop into view, perching on a stick right above a sizable birdbath. The attractions of Lake Kariba itself haven’t changed either: sundowner outings on a covered pontoon, tiger fishing during the warmer months, a boating safari observing elephants and buffaloes & whatever else is present along the shoreline. On one morning outing along the Nyamasango river, we racked up an impressive number of bird sightings, culminating in an African fish eagle being enticed to swoop in and snatch up a fish from the surface of the water. Did I get the classic shot of the eagle with talons extended? Alas not, but Klaus – one of the German guests – did.

While we missed them during our stay, a pride of lions regularly make their way into the area close to the camp. Above all, this little slice of paradise is the ideal spot for a change of pace from bumpy safari rides. Take a seat and look out over the most gorgeous watery amphitheater stretching out to the horizon. Where at night the lights of the kapenta fisherman far away on the lake could easily be mistaken for a bridge to Zambia. Enjoy a local beverage while listening to one of Steve’s stories and appreciating his finely tuned sense of humor. And prepare yourself for the most delectable meals, served al fresco. PS. Do not pass on the starter. It would be a mistake.  

PALM RIVER HOTEL, VICTORIA FALLS

The Palm River is a brand new addition to the many hotels, guest houses and lodges populating the area close to the Falls and beyond. We give it an enthusiastic thumbs up for four reasons:  

*Its location right on the banks of the Zambezi, which practically makes it unique among all similar hotels in Vic Falls.

*The rooms. Excellent design with views toward the Zambezi, high ceilings, great lighting, ultra comfortable bed, pre-stocked minibar (included – pay for restocking only), large bathroom with good walk-in shower, double sink, plenty of storage space,  effective air-conditioning and a safe.  

*Beautiful natural garden setting with tightly cropped lawns, an easily negotiable (non-slippery) walkway, a pool just far enough away from the common area and an inviting open-air bar and dining area.

*The food. Both dinner and breakfast were delectable, as was the 3:30 pm afternoon tea. Smoked salmon on a thin piece of bread, individual carrot cake and delicious sugar cookies. A nice selection of coffee – espresso machine with several choices – and premier tea bags. 

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA, SANDTON

There have  been several major structural changes and reconfigurations at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa in Sandton since our previous visit several years ago. All of which were done quite seamlessly as the place felt very much the same. Step through the door and you immediately know you’re in a rarefied environment. The interior look and feel, the artifacts, the silky smooth check-in process; even the gracious porter who accompanied us to our room. Fairlawns is classy in a good way: not overly pretentious or avant garde, just warm and chic. Our room (#2) was spacious and comfortable with good lighting, a nice bath and pretty decent WiFi. Breakfast was excellent. Dinner was good too with the exception of one dessert choice which missed the mark. We will continue to recommend the property as a great spot to spend a couple of nights in the way of a ‘mini-holiday’ at the start or end of a safari. A place to savor an al fresco meal, lounge poolside, enjoy the highly acclaimed spa and simply relax. Want to venture out to restaurants or other attractions in the area or do some shopping? No problem. Fairlawns is less than four miles from Sandton City, one of southern Africa’s premier shopping centers.

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist


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Why Zimbabwe should be on your Africa shortlist

I first visited Zimbabwe – when I was a senior in college – to attend a tiger fishing tournament at Charara, on Lake Kariba in 1974.  At the time Zimbabwe was still known as Rhodesia – it would gain its independence from Great Britain several years later, in 1980.  The Zimbabwe of the mid-1970’s was a very different place on many levels to what it is today.  Some things never change though and what appealed to me about Zimbabwe at the time, still holds true.  The friendliest people, ‘from the heart’ hospitality and spectacular natural beauty and wildlife, in the most African of settings imaginable.


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We first started sending our guests to Zimbabwe in the early 1990’s and I don’t think anybody has returned from there who has not had their expectations met or exceeded.  Now, 30 years later, we still rate Zimbabwe highly as an excellent ‘value for money’ destination.  I always say that it offers pretty much what Botswana does, at half the price, in the high season.  It is also an attractive proposition for the shoulder season (April & May and November).  Even so, November can be quite hot with afternoon temperatures rising well in the 90’s F.


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Right now,  Zimbabwe is an ideal safari destination because of its safety and diversity.  It is practically the only Southern Africa destination which is at Level 2 (extra caution) on the US State Department travel advisory status.  And it is getting easier to reach:  Qatar Airlines is set to launch four weekly flights from Doha into Harare, likely starting on August 6 2021.  This Boeing Dreamliner service will be via Lusaka, Zambia and will make it much easier than before to include Mana Pools in a Zimbabwe itinerary.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on Ngamo Plains March 2021

Another strong advantage which Zimbabwe has over many other safari destinations, is that it is ideal for a ‘one country’ trip, with plenty of diversity, making it possible to put together a trip of 10 days or so with an unbeatable mix of wildlife viewing, adventure activities, cultural interaction and scenery.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – canoeing on the Bomani concession

Many visitors start or end in Victoria Falls.  Usually just for a day or two at the beginning of the trip – to acclimate, see the Falls and perhaps do an interesting late afternoon sundowner boat-trip on the Zambezi.  The Falls are an awesome sight in March, April and May particularly but always nice to see – any time of the year – from the main falls on the Zimbabwe side.


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Hwange National park is Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination.  This huge national park is one of the most important elephant sanctuaries in Africa, with as many as 30,000 elephants resident in the greater Hwange area.  We always include at least one Hwange property (mostly tented but not exclusively so) in an itinerary, sometimes two.  In addition to the elephants, Hwange has good populations of buffalo, giraffe, eland (largest antelope in Africa), zebra, wildebeest, and a good variety of predators including lions, cheetahs, leopards and also African painted dogs.

Ellerman House


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So the safari experience there is very much like in South Africa, Botswana or for that matter Kenya.  Zimbabwe has a couple of very special antelope not generally seen elsewhere in Southern Africa, namely the majestic Sable antelope and the equally interesting Roan antelope.  Plus literally thousands of impala and various other smaller mammals.  The birdlife is superb with many birds of prey and colorful bee-eaters, rollers, shrikes, and dozens of other families of birds.  It is also an exceptionally good place for walking safaris, under the safe and capable supervision of a professional Zimbabwe guide.


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Imvelo Safari Lodges – Lions on the Hwange railroad tracks

Mana Pools in far north-eastern Zimbabwe is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far north-eastern Zimbabwe.  Renowned for its game-viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game & African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail.  Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background (across the river), the setting is very special too.  Including Mana Pools makes a trip a bit more expensive on a per diem basis, due to the relatively high cost of flying there.  The introduction of international flights into Harare will help to offset that.  Mana Pools is known as an ideal park for foot safaris.


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Lake Kariba and particularly the Matusadona National Park on the southern shore of the lake, is yet another attractive option for inclusion in a Zimbabwe itinerary.  A very diverse area (in terms of habitat and activities), Lake Kariba will enhance almost any Zimbabwe trip.  Beautiful views over the lake (one of the biggest man-made lakes in Africa), boat safaris (a pleasant change from bumping around in the vehicle), fishing – for tiger fish, a fierce freshwater fighting fish, on catch & release basis – and walking are all possible.  I have taken some of my best ever photographs in Matusadona National Park because of the vast expanse of floodplain around the lake, where elephants and other animals are often seen in the open, with a nice clean mountain or water backdrop.

Legendary Lodge


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Last but not least, it’s worth considering spending some time in the Matobos in south-western Zimbabwe.  If you definitely want to see rhinos in the wild, then this is the place to include on your itinerary, before moving on to Hwange.  Scenically it is unbeatable with rocky outcrops reminiscent of South-eastern Utah.  It also has a couple of worthwhile cultural experiences, namely a visit to one or two San (‘Bushmen’) cave painting sites and a visit to the grave-site of Cecil John Rhodes.  This area – which Rhodes referred to as ‘World’s View’ is spectacular, particularly at sunset.


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In our blog post next week we will take a look at a couple of Zimbabwe safari camps which we rate very highly, and have elevated to our ‘Groundhog Day’ list.  Little Makalolo in Hwange and Chikwenya in Mana Pools.

More Info

Email bert@fisheaglesafaris.com

Email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com

@fisheaglesafarishouston

#FishEagleSafaris

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