A Winter in Africa: Part 2

Taking the train from Nairobi to Tsavo East
Taking the Madaraka Express train from Nairobi to Voi – on the boundary of Tsavo East National Park – is a slow, leisurely journey in comfortable ‘business class’ seats. It’s relaxing to the point of being soporific. Particularly if you’re as jet lagged as we were on the Saturday morning in late May when we embarked on the 4 hour trip, covering just over 200 miles. So all in all an ideal way to start one’s Kenya trip, after a couple of nights in Nairobi inclusive of a day tour to Sheldrick for the baby elephant orphans and visiting the Giraffe Center.
Including a train ride in a Kenya trip itinerary checks several boxes: it adds diversity, it means one less flight and it’s an opportunity to see some of the Kenyan countryside instead of just flying over it.

The first hour or so of the route is rather uninspiring, traversing a mix of light industrial areas, small farms, small stands of maize and a few settlements and villages. All pretty drab, to be sure. Fortunately the views get more interesting further on. Small hills start to appear on the horizon and from the 2-hour mark, it gets downright scenic with one after another series of mist-clad hills and craggy outcrops dominating the landscape on the right-hand side of the train.
My advice is to get a solid breakfast on the morning of the trip, even though it will be an early one. Or take a boxed meal of some kind. The catering on the train itself is rudimentary – some chips and snacks, soft drinks, a muffin and coffee/tea. The snack cart made it to us only once during the entire journey.
Ideally, leave your heavy luggage with Origins in Nairobi, to be driven to Voi by your guide. Even the first class compartments have limited overhead luggage space so having just a small bag is ideal. The Origins Safaris team will have you checking in at the Nairobi Terminus around 6:45 to 7:00 am on the day of departure, for an 8:00 am sharp departure time. There, you’ll join up with an Origins team member who will handle the formalities and who will accompany you on the journey.

Be ready for a triple security check: a preliminary arrival screening, then a rather laborious luggage inspection where bags are lined up in a center ‘aisle’ with passengers unceremoniously lined up against a wall, behind a white line. Several sniffer dogs and their handlers then check the bags for contraband and whatever else they may be looking for.
You will then be required to show your ticket and passport before a final metal detector screening before proceeding to the first class waiting area. Someone will come around with a menu with some interesting if not always tempting food and snack options and beverages. Fried chicken anyone? We ordered some black tea and water.

About 15 minutes before the advertised departure time, we trooped down some steps onto the platform and boarded our first class compartment. Each of the air-conditioned compartments seats 72 persons total in 2-2 rows in non-reclining but fairly plush seats. Visibility to the outside is pretty good with large plate-glass windows. I was initially a bit alarmed at the absence of seatbelts but the train never moved particularly fast, topping out around 45 mph. So all very sedate and a super smooth ride, with practically no engine or locomotive noise. Not to imply that the compartment was quiet. Definitely not. There were some boisterous kids, a baby or two demanding attention, and even a loud toilet flushing.

After disembarking, a small detour off the main road in Voi took us to the old and now sadly neglected, practically derelict, Voi station, erected in 1897. The faded name board, old post box and a sign prohibiting bicycles on the platform are relics from a long forgotten chapter in Kenya’s past. A time when Voi was a depot for the construction of the Voi-Taveta military railway line, built to transport troops and heavy artillery to neighboring Tanzania (then German East Africa) to defeat German forces there. A time that is probably best left sliding into oblivion.

Bert will be happy to answer any questions you may have about traveling by train from Nairobi to Voi, and about Tsavo East and West. Tsavo is one of our ‘signature elephant experience’ destinations, often inclusive of a Super Tusker experience with a small team from the Tsavo Trust. Please call our office at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-5222 and leave a message or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for more information.






