Sedgefield

Is the mouth open? Anyone who’s spent even just a few days in Sedgefield on South Africa’s Garden Route coast knows about the town’s preoccupation with the status of the narrow channel connecting the Indian Ocean with the Swartvlei lagoon. Whether it’s open or closed, why or why not and if not, when. As of this writing? Open but closing up fast.  

Sedgefield is a small coastal community in the heart of the Garden Route between the largest regional town – George – and Knysna, at one time the jewel of the Garden Route.  

Out of season Sedgefield’s appeal lies in its sleepy, ‘slow town’ atmosphere with not many notable events on the calendar, no grand parades or local festivals. Just the way we like it.  

It’s not that Sedgefield is bereft of charm in winter. Anything but. The weather is generally pretty mild and downright fantastic if your other option is the veritable furnace of a Texas summer. The people are mostly friendly, crime is of the petty variety and it’s a short drive along a sometimes spectacular road to nearby attractions.

Sedgefield Organic Market 

Unquestionably the single best thing about Sedgefield from many visitors’ perspective is its Saturday  morning organic market. The market, a mile or so west of town just off the national N-2 highway, happens rain or shine every Saturday from 8 am through 1 pm. People drive from near and far for this weekly event.  

On a typical Saturday morning we’d arrive at the market quite early, head straight to our preferred coffee stall which happens to be next to our preferred pancake shop. For the next 15 minutes or so we’d be joining other market attendees sitting on tree stumps in a chilly corner of the market. Enjoying our coffee while kids ignore the ‘no tree climbing’ signs and dogs excitedly check out other visiting canine companions. 

Our next stop would be ‘Familie Geheimpies’ (family secrets), a baked goods stall operated by Christi Theron and her daughter. Christi custom bakes a heavy, delicious traditional fruit cake for us each year. She is also known for her exceptionally good traditional South African rusks (a type of biscotti), milk tart and lemon meringue pie. There are several other equally popular stands, each with its own regular supporters.  

From there we’d head to the organic chicken purveyor – Valley Organics – for maybe a small spatchcocked bird, then pick up some vegetables and fruits for the week and some cut flowers for the house. 

The main organic market section, which consists of about 100 highly sought after stalls, has a massive selection of fresh organic vegetables and fruits, locally sourced meats, chicken, traditional ‘boerewors’ sausages, biltong and dried sausages, chilis, cheeses, pickles, sauces, sweet and savory pies, freshly made tofu, a blizzard of baked goods, chocolate, soaps, cosmetics, flowers, proteas, herbs, jams and preserves, and more. 

The busiest part of the market is the prepared food area where a gourmet’s fondest dreams are realized in the way of probably a hundred or more different ready-to-eat treats. From traditional South African pancakes (thin crepes with a sugar and cinnamon topping) to sausage rolls, bratwurst, the local version of kolaches, hamburgers, hot dogs, waffles, sandwiches of every kind, delicate French pastries, ice cream and more.  

The middle market has an additional 50 stalls or so with a mix of more fast foods, sweet treats, pies and coffee/tea and the like, with arts and crafts products including ceramics, footwear, clothing, hats and caps, sculptures, paintings, carvings and more.  

Finally there’s the Scarab Market offering pretty much the same variety with some used books, bird feeders, leather items, more soaps and ‘natural’ cosmetics, more coffee shops and baked goods purveyors, and several local artists and artisans.

Beaches and Lagoons

Our rental property in Sedgefield is one block away from the beautiful, squeaky-clean and mostly semi-deserted Myoli Beach. Its wide expanses of white sand and never ending series of crashing waves are picture-perfect. Behind you, a dramatic coastal dune backdrop and sweeping views to the left and right where the Swartvlei lagoon empties out (or not) into the Indian Ocean.  

From the popular PiliPili Restaurant (more below), you can walk at least a mile or more to the left – east – along Myoli and then Cola Beach, encountering maybe a dozen other people on a good day. Plus a few dogs on leashes. Often, the beach is all but deserted barring perhaps an angler or two or a couple of runners.  

When the Swartvlei River mouth is closed – which is most of the time – you can also walk to the west, from PiliPili, around a prominent bluff to your right and then all the way along the shoreline to the well-known Gericke’s Point. It is possible to be trapped by a high tide, so check those tide tables before you embark on that outing.

Exercise and sport 

Beyond its beaches and the market, Sedgefield has several other attractions which keep visitors mostly happy, winter or summer. The town is ideal for walking, running and biking, with several steep to very steep hills in the Cola-Myoli areas making your exercise outing as challenging as you could possibly want it to be.  

Bikers can check in at the friendly Cycleworx Sedgefield where owner Sean Hanekom will fix you up with a rental. If you already have a bike, it’s the place to find out about regular weekly rides and what’s ahead on the racing calendar.  

There’s a properly equipped local gym (book sessions with a trainer or follow your own program), a running club, a hiking club, an active lawn bowling community and several nearby golf courses, some of them highly rated championship properties.

Food and Drink

The Sedgefield main street is essentially what we’d call a strip center on both sides of the N-2 national highway which runs east-west through the middle of town. There is all of one stoplight. 

There are two grocery stores (Spar and Pick n Pay), a couple of chemists, two bakeries, a bike shop, an angler’s shop, dentist, doctor’s offices, other retail, a slew of bars and restaurants, guesthouses and b & b’s. A pretty typical coastal town. 

Over the years we’ve tried just about every restaurant and coffee shop in the area, and we keep going back to these:

Mac Butners Coffee Shop: Don’t be put off by the rather unimaginative and somewhat cluttered look of the place. It’s a hidden gem. Owner Rob and his wife Marie are almost always around. He brews the coffee (from his own blend of beans mostly imported from East Africa) and she supervises the kitchen which turns out a variety of delectable treats ranging from savory meat and vegetarian pies, croissant and egg for breakfast, to milk and almond tarts and a delicious fudge. My advice is to try them all. Rob’s place is a true neighborhood hangout where you’ll see the same people all the time. And the occasional ‘strangers’ like us.  

Mr. Kaai: If every purveyor of freshly cooked fish could turn out grilled hake fillets like they do at Mr Kaai’s, steak-eating would go into a terminal tailspin. It’s ‘off-the-boat’ fresh, perfectly done and delicious. At very reasonable prices. Also small isn’t small at Mr Kaai’s. It’s easy to over order. Beware. The fish doesn’t automatically come with tartar sauce or fries.

Pilipili Restaurant: Sitting on the land side of a coastal dune not more than 50  meters or so from the edge of the Indian Ocean, but without a view, Pilipili is a hybrid sports bar/casual dining/holiday accommodation and small grocery store. While it doesn’t particularly excel at any one of these, we like their pizzas when we’re too lazy or busy to cook. Our favorite is the blue cheese & fresh arugula version – when they have arugula. Or rocket as it is locally referred to. Chance of there being rocket on the day you’re there? Maybe 70%. Their Friday evening traditional ‘braai’ special is also worth a try. 

Montecello Restaurant: This spot is popular particularly for their beef espetada; essentially a hanging skewer crammed with chunks of tender, flavorful beef with a dripping garlic butter baste. The largest of the three options can easily be shared by two. Served with a small serving of French fries, more commonly referred to as chips in South Africa. There are some good pasta and other dishes on the menu but we can’t seem to get beyond the espetada. Montecello is closed on Saturday and Sunday.  

Rosie’s Steak Bar: A couple of miles out of town, right across from the 9-hole golf course, one floor above the local golf club, Rosie’s is yet another good choice for high quality, well prepared steak. We haven’t veered much beyond the fillet of beef, often served topped with an egg and with some fries on the side. Sauces, like their pretty tasty take on green peppercorn sauce, are optional. Rosie’s is not a late night joint and it’s not open every day so call ahead. 

Little Prince Coffee Shop: A relative newcomer to the Sedgefield scene, this family-friendly coffee shop has the friendliest waitstaff in town, brisk service, ample indoor and outdoor (covered patio) seating and perhaps more importantly, excellent coffee. The Little Prince menu has several choices of grilled sandwiches and other light fare and a wide variety of delicious croissants and other baked goods. Come early – they usually close around 3 pm or so. Closed on Sundays.

VDM Bistro: Over the last few years we’ve enjoyed quite a few excellent meals at this white tablecloth restaurant along the main drag in Sedgefield. It’s fine dining with a small but creative menu featuring starters like escargot and springbok carpaccio, mains like a Green Thai Lamb Curry and JJ’s Fillet Rossini. Service can be a little inconsistent so VDM is ideal for a leisurely dinner.  

Kahuna Burger: About once a week or so we swing by the Kahuna Burger spot for their Big Kahuna burger with a side of fries. Serving a good quality beef patty, the burgers at Kahunas are quite delicious. We’ve tried their chicken wings as well and they were tasty but nothing like their American counterparts. 

Crust & Crumb: We think any bakery where you can see someone sliding the dough-laden pans into the oven is worth checking out. Which is exactly what we did with this small jewel of a shop. At first we mostly just purchased some regular sourdough bread from them. Subsequently we branched out into cheesy bread sticks, seeded sourdough, jelly donuts, pretzels and pasteis natas. All delicious.  

Next month: Knysna, George and Wilderness

Bert and Kathy have spent the last four (US) summers in Sedgefield  so contact them at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or kathy@fisheaglesafaris.com for more information about the Cape Garden Route and for recommendations as to how it can form part of a South Africa trip. You can also call our 24/7 answering service and leave a message. One of us will get back to you promptly.  

Cyclist photo courtesy Cycleworx Sedgefield, fish and chips photo courtesy Mr. Kaai, fillet courtesy Rosie’s Steak Bar, VDM Bistro photo courtesy VDM Bistro