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A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

Over the last thirty years plus since Fish Eagle Safaris came into being, our team members have been fortunate to observe thousands of elephants. Even so, there is not one among us who will ever tire or become bored of finding and observing these amazing beasts. They are at the heart of a successful safari and like so many other passionate wildlife enthusiasts, we can and do watch them for hours on end. There are elephants in many areas of eastern and Southern Africa, but these five locations are standouts:

Amboseli National Park 

Two things elevate the elephants of Amboseli National Park into superstar status. The one is the fact that they – alone among all the many thousands of African elephants – are the only ones which live and breathe in the rain shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro. With a little bit of luck and skill – and a guide who will already be primed to do this – you too can take a photo putting the elephants between you and the mountain. It’s not too difficult and the results are stellar. 

What is the other thing about Amboseli elephants which makes them special? Their white tusks. But don’t all elephants have white tusks? Indeed they do but if there were a dental whiteness standard for elephants as there is for human teeth, then the Amboseli tuskers would be practically off the charts on the bright side. The reason? Observe Amboseli’s elephants for a day or two and you’ll quickly figure it out. They are continuously moving between the woodlands and the swamps. In the swamps they practically submerge themselves while rooting around for edible plants. In the process undergoing a repeated and ongoing tusk cleanup, more effective than any giant elephant toothbrush ever could be. 

Chobe National Park, Botswana

Botswana is a reliably good elephant destination and specifically so along the Chobe and Linyanti River, as well as along the Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. In those places, elephants gather in their hundreds and sometimes thousands during the dry season as they are dependent on water, having to drink at least once every couple of days or so. By June and through October, this is where they can be seen moving to the water, drinking from it and often getting into it. A Chobe and Linyanti highlight is to see small groups of elephants swimming to nearby islands or simply splashing around. Ideally visitors to the area should spend a good amount of time in the water themselves. On a boat, of course. 

The stable platform provided by a boat or skiff is ideal for photography in a spot which is invariably chockablock with subjects: not only the elephants  but also as many as three or four species of kingfishers; and several ducks, geese, egrets, cormorants, herons, bee-eaters and storks. Plus an abundance of hippos and Nile crocodiles. 

Tsavo East, Kenya 

If I had to pick just one favorite spot in all of Kenya with its incredible diversity it would have to be Galdessa Camp on the Galana River, in Tsavo East. At the very base of the intriguing Yatta plateau – the remnant of the world’s longest lava flow – Galdessa is a simply magical spot. Spend half an hour gazing out over the usually tranquil Galana River, and you’ll almost certainly see some interesting birds and mammals in or close to it. Stick around a little longer and an elephant trunk is likely to be extended up and over the edge of the embankment, silently imploring you to roll a tasty doum palm fruit in its general direction. Several elephants habitually swing by the property to avail themselves of these free treats. 

The undisputed #1 activity from Galana – which is operated by Sheldrick Wildlife Trust – is a half day trip to the Voi Reintegration unit. This is where your fondest elephant dreams come true. Where you come face-to-face with several subadult elephant orphans being readied for release back into the wilderness. Observe their camaraderie, their unbridled joie de vivre, and reflect how every one of them initially made it to the Sheldrick elephant as orphans. Hungry, lonely, lost little souls, somehow separated from their mothers. Seeing them happy and content, feeding, drinking and playing with the other members of their peer group (they are usually released back into the wilderness together) is one of the most heartwarming, most inspirational, simply magical Africa experiences out there.

Mashatu, SE Botswana

Listen to a group of travelers talking about their upcoming trip to Botswana and you’ll hear them mention the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Moremi. Maybe Kalahari. What you won’t hear is Mashatu. Which is a pity as Mashatu is one of Botswana’s best destinations for elephants – and the big cats. Unquestionably, Mashatu private game reserve in the Tuli block in southeastern Botswana is a hugely underrated safari destination. 

Over the course of several visits over the years we have experienced some amazing sightings at Mashatu, several revolving around elephants. The undisputed highlights were a couple of sessions at Mashatu’s Matebole elephant hide. Elephant aficionado heaven. Observe as one, two, a few and then an entire herd of elephants walk right into your field of view, just a few meters away. Put aside the telephoto lens – this is wide angle stuff. Youngsters pushing each other around, big bulls scaring everyone, tiny babies not knowing what their trunks are for. At the height of the dry season it can be an intense experience with even the observers sensing the desperation, sympathizing with the survival instincts so starkly on display there. 

While one can never get tired of watching elephants and elephant behavior, Mashatu has plenty of other things to see and do. Spend three or four nights there and you’re likely to see lots of plains game species as well as lions and leopards, and perhaps even cheetahs. They are not always present, but when they are, they are relatively easily seen being diurnal cats which roam around, hunt and kill during the day.  

Mashatu lends itself to foot safaris, which can be done in lieu of a game drive at no additional cost, or which can be added as an extra activity at nominal additional cost. At additional cost (not a lot) you can prebook a photographic session in the elephant hide, or embark on a mountain bike safari. If you’re a proficient horseback rider, you may wish to saddle up and go out into the wilderness on a horseback safari.

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

With more than 45,000 elephants resident in greater Hwange National Park, with some seasonal movements mostly within the park, Hwange is solidly in the top three best elephant destinations in Africa. Several of our most memorable elephant viewing experiences occurred at waterholes in Hwange, among others on outings from four Imvelo properties – Jozibanini, Camelthorn, Nehimba and Bomani – and from three Wilderness camps namely Davison’s, Little Makalolo and Linkwasha. In another blog post which can be found here, you can read more about Hwange and what makes it special, beyond the elephants.

On a safari some years ago, Kathy and I were sitting just outside the vehicle on the side of the Makalolo Pan in southern Hwange late one afternoon, observing one after another herd of elephants coming to the water. It was early November and still bone dry, with no early rain having fallen. As a result, the stream of elephants coming to the waterhole was practically never-ending. Herd after herd after herd emerged from the edge of the woodland, the youngsters running ahead in boisterous fashion, all intent on quenching what is usually a substantial thirst in the dry season. We would watch as the elephants initially focused – almost exclusively – on just getting in as much water as fast as they could. Trunkful after trunkful, their huge heads and tusks would go up and down, sometimes in tandem with the other elephants around. Which was the cue for us to press the shutter release buttons on our cameras.  Getting a bit of synchronicity into a wildlife photo can be appealing.  

And then the unexpected happened. On that afternoon, Kathy and I each had a camera focused on the elephants. When the shutter release sound on her camera suddenly stopped, I wondered what was going on and looked to my right, where she was seated. She was looking directly at me, wide-eyed and used a small head movement to prompt me to look behind her. I immediately realized what was happening. A huge herd of elephants was in the process of approaching the waterhole from the side where we were parked. They split left and right of the vehicle, streaming past on our right and left, very close by. Hence the interrupted photography. We looked at our Wilderness guide who gave us a thumbs up sign, indicating that all was fine and that we were in no danger.  

For a few minutes there, we sat in awe of the huge beasts softly trundling past us in the direction of the water. Almost without a sound – the massive pads on their feet muffling the sounds of their footsteps – they glided right by us with no more than the occasional cautionary glance. In the late afternoon light they were beautifully lit and we could see the finest details on their massive heads and trunks, their gleaming tusks and finely rippled, charcoal grey hides. It was awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word. I like to think that there was nothing we could have done to have improved on the experience. It was as perfect as an encounter with wild animals could be: the elephants were not displaced or distressed in any way, not scared or disturbed. Which is of course how one ideally wants every interaction with wild animals to go. Spellbinding and fascinating, yet not intrusive or disruptive.  

There are a myriad of safari options where one or more of these elephant havens can be included in a thoughtful and practical way. Particularly for a first safari but certainly not exclusively so – we think it is essential to include a really great elephant experience: Amboseli, the Chobe-Linyanti-Selinda corridor, Tsavo East, Mashatu and Hwange all fit the bill. So email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to help you figure out a plan for your next trip to do just that. Or call us at
Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222 any time; we will get back to you promptly. 

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Revisiting Victoria Falls

Revisiting Victoria Falls

Three things stuck with me in the aftermath of our recent two-night stay in Victoria Falls:

The Victoria Falls Hotel

It is impossible to over-romanticize the Victoria Falls Hotel. From the arched name board across the entranceway to the unassuming yet oddly regal front door with its four interior pillars, it takes just a few minutes to enter a completely different world. Stepping back into history is not a cliche here. Move from the front lobby through the central courtyard and onto the back verandah and 120 years disappear in an instant. There, right in front of you in the distance, is the enduring marvel of the famous bridge spanning the Zambezi river border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Looking exactly like it did on the day on which the first general manager of the Vic Falls Hotel – Pierre Gavuzzi – must have gazed upon it when he showed up there in the winter of 1904. Since that day, the venerable old Edwardian property has undergone one complete rebuild and many additions, improvements, refurbishments and restorations. Clearly some good decisions were made along the way as the Victoria Falls Hotel has aged into one of the world’s unquestionably great hotels. To be sure, the grande dame of the Falls looks better every time I see it. In early December last year the property and the gardens were simply sparkling. I’m happy for it and for all the lucky hotel guests who will be spending a day or two there over the next 120 years.  

The view of the Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side

My other takeaway following the recent visit? That I had forgotten how impressive the first look at the Victoria Falls can be. I think it was at lookout point #2 as our small group was being escorted to the starting point of the guided tour of the Falls. Which is, predictably, a massive statue of David Livingstone. We stopped at a clearing in the rainforest, looked slightly down and to the right and there it was. A wall of water cascading down the rocks, as vivid and impactful a demonstration of the beauty of nature as anything one could imagine. For at least a minute or two, the spectacle is so awesome, so involving, that most people just look. And stare. And then of course come the iPhones and cameras and other devices, everybody trying – and none truly succeeding – to capture the moment. You absolutely have to be there to truly appreciate it. Right? Right.

A sundowner cruise – and not too many other activities

Thirdly, some advice about activities in the Falls. Every year, there seems to be one or two new activities added to the already long list of things to do. Swimming in the rock pools right underneath the falls? Sounds like a great idea. Or maybe not. The same can be said about jumping into Devil’s Pool, the small natural rock pool right on the edge of the Falls, accessible only when the Zambezi is at low flow stage. As exhilarating an experience as it may be, it is not everybody’s cup of tea.

My best advice for your Vic Falls visit is to not overschedule it, for starters. Leave some time to just explore a bit, poke around in the village and support the local economy with a judicious purchase or two. Better yet, slow down for a cup of coffee at the Lookout Cafe – while enjoying the stupendous views over the Batoka Gorge, left and right. In the same vein, take high tea at the Vic Falls Hotel. Freshly baked scones with strawberry jam and delicate cucumber sandwiches with an endless cup of Earl Grey tea? Why not. All while training your binoculars on the people bungee jumping off the bridge. The view is priceless and the people watching on the verandah never disappoint. Just remember they’re looking at you too. It’s a spot where you can simply let time wash over you, slipping back into a simpler, more genteel era when the ‘news’ from England was at best two months old when it reached this former outpost of the empire.  

There are a couple things you’d want to schedule in Vic Falls though. The previously mentioned tour of the Falls being one of them. Of course the Falls are at their most impressive when the water in the Zambezi is at flood stage, so if you happen to be there around February to May, get ready for a truly awesome experience. Even so, a visit during the low-water season from around September through November is still worthwhile. Our recent early December visit was a case in point. On some of our previous visits many of the views were obscured by incessant spray and foam. This time around, with the Zambezi just starting to come up from its lowest flow stage, the visibility was excellent and it was possible to get some nice exposures from most of the viewpoints. With our Wild Horizons  guide Sorro (he was a jewel) leading the way, I think every one of us enjoyed the stroll along the falls, all the way out to the spot from where we watched the daredevils cavorting in Devil’s Pool. The path along the Falls is quite flat and accessible  – we saw at least one person in a wheelchair – but be sure to wear sturdy walking or running shoes or something similar. There are many uneven spots and loose-fitting sandals or flipflops are just not going to hack it. For the kids, yes. For the rest of us, no.  

Another activity which we would suggest pre-scheduling is an afternoon jet boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi. There are many options but for our guests, we book the premium Bushtracks cruise. For a little bit more money, there’s a big payoff. A small, comfortable boat with a competent skipper, not too many other guests and the seating done in lounge style with plush chairs and small couches and tables, and plenty of room. In addition to the skipper, there’s a waiter and chef on board, with several warm canapés being freshly prepared and served as you slowly traverse the waters of the Zambezi. The major advantage of the jet boat vessel being that it can negotiate shallower water than most of the other larger propeller-driven boats. 

And why a sundowner cruise, one might ask? Seeing the sun set over the Zambezi – even when it is partially obscured by clouds like it was on the most recent excursion – is always a highlight of a visit to the area. Being out on the Zambezi in a small boat amplifies the size and the impact of the river. It is massive – a veritable juggernaut bearing down on the Falls which are a couple of miles or so down-river. At about the half mile point from the Falls the cruise turns around, heading back upstream to the mooring point. Predictably, we did see some hippos, a couple of not so impressive crocodiles (go to nearby Chobe for the big monsters), several good birds, and as a bonus – an elephant swimming across the Zambezi, from Zimbabwe to Zambia. 

If you overlook the presence of the other boats – at certain times of the year there will be quite a few – a sundowner cruise is a peaceful, relaxing outing in a beautiful natural setting. There is no rush to get anywhere, no deadline other than to be stationary somewhere the moment the softly glowing sun seemingly dips into the water of the Zambezi and then disappears. As you’ll soon find out on an Africa trip, the sunsets often get better and better beyond the actual sun setting moment. The sky becomes suffused with a golden, sometimes reddish or pinkish glow which is at its best as much as 20 minutes or so after sunset. And then, suddenly, it’s dark. 

Pioneers Lodge

This time around, we spent two nights in Vic Falls at Pioneers lodge, a well-run guest lodge with its 50 rooms built around a large courtyard, facing in towards an attractive garden area with two pools, one of which is elevated on a different level. There were quite a few bird species skulking around the lush garden, some of them probably attracted by the nicely done waterfall feature. A bonus was the presence of two young fulvous whistling ducks, who apparently like to get into the pool with visitors. We didn’t mind. They are beautiful.   

Located in a quiet neighborhood a couple of miles or so from the Falls, Pioneers Lodge and its sister property Batonka Lodge offer quality air-conditioned accommodation, well-prepared meals and lots of space in the terrace, bar and restaurant areas. The Wifi was pretty decent and we all spent a bit of time catching up on email or TikTok or whatever on our cellphones. 

In addition to our tour of the Falls and the sundowner cruise, we took a cab (organized by the lodge) to the Vic Falls Hotel, walking from there to the Three Monkeys restaurant for pizza. To say that I was more than mildly surprised by the quality of the pizza – and how quickly it was turned out – would be an understatement. At US$11 and $15 respectively, the large wood-fired thin-crust Margeritha and Quattro Formaggio pan pies were not inexpensive but worth every cent.  

With daily flights from the Victoria Falls area to Nairobi in Kenya, and vice versa, it is now easier than ever before to include a few days in Vic Falls with a Kenya safari. For more information about that, please get in touch with Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service – any time of the day – at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222. 

Sunset cruise photo courtesy Bushtracks

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Back to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Back to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Late one morning, early in our December 2024 Zimbabwe safari, we spotted a small breeding herd of elephants enjoying the shade and the foraging opportunities in the interior of a beautiful teak forest in the far southern area of Hwange National Park. “Feel like taking a walk to get a little closer to them?,” Camelthorn camp head guide Vusa Ncube asked. It was unanimous. Not five minutes later we were out of the Landcruiser and on the forest floor, quietly making our way in single file towards the elephants. Vusa was leading the way, rifle in hand, every now and then checking the direction of the wind by shaking a small bag filled with leadwood ash. Even an untrained observer could see that we were walking directly upwind, to prevent our scent from reaching the elephants’ super sensitive smell detection organ. These gigantic lumbering mammals have the strongest sense of smell of any animal. Twice as good as the best bloodhound out there, and five times better than the world’s top sommeliers. 

Remaining undetected (the elephants’ eyesight not being good at all), we approached to within 20 meters or so, keeping our bodies mostly hidden behind vegetation and tree trunks. Even for seasoned safari pros like Kathy and myself it was an exhilarating moment. For the other guests – on just their second day of being in the African wilderness – it was  a highlight of their entire stay, I am sure. 

Standing there quietly observing the elephants tearing off huge chunks of vegetation with their prehensile trunks, over and over again, hearing them communicating with each other in soft rumbles while flapping their massive ears to dissipate the heat, took us right out of our element. Into theirs. We were on foot in ‘Big Five’ terrain. Vulnerable and exposed. As close to nature as we might ever be. For just a few minutes there we were in the footsteps of our ancestors, feeling exactly what they would have felt. A little bit of fear, a lot of respect and a palpable sense of being one with the natural environment. 

On the way back to the vehicle a young elephant bull appeared as if out of nowhere from stage left and for a minute or two – particularly when it looked as if the animal had picked up our scent – our hearts beat in our throats. All ended well and we lived to tell the tale. Our ancestors would have been proud. And I’m sure they would have been envious of our sturdy footwear and our nifty Swarovski binoculars.

Spending four days at Camelthorn Lodge in the southern Hwange area early last December underscored a lot of what we’ve been telling prospective visitors over the years. And then some. There are just so many reasons to include Hwange in a southern African safari.  

Here are a few: 

The elephants

Particularly for first time visitors, no African safari is complete and satisfying without a truly rewarding  elephant experience. By that I mean more than just observing a few elephants standing around browsing or trundling through a forest. I mean a ‘blow your socks off, bring the house down’ type of elephant experience. Like seeing dozens or even hundreds of elephants in one area, ideally coming to water close to a spot from where you can observe them safely.   

Hwange National Park is just such a place. The park and surrounding areas are home to around 45,000 elephants, all coming to the water regularly in the dry months. Even in the early December time frame – when many of them typically disperse after the first rains – we enjoyed several opportunities to observe elephants close up. The most memorable occasion being sitting in a sunken hide at Stoffies Pan, waiting for the elephants to come to us. A pleasant change from bumping around on a game drive. We had hardly taken up our positions in the sunken hide by late morning before a small breeding herd of elephants approached rapidly from the left. 

It got really quiet really fast inside the blind as the elephants got closer and closer. We practically held our collective breath as the herd stopped near the point where the clean, fresh borehole water emerged. Using their trunks, they sucked up the fresh water by the trunkful, guzzling as much as 40 gallons in less than 5 minutes. An elephant drinking is quite the spectacle. It’s all action and noise, with several moving parts – and invariably ends with the elephant blowing bubbles or amusing itself by squirting water around when it has had its fill. The young elephants are even more entertaining as they frolic and push each other around. On this occasion a couple of young bulls rushed into and out of the water just like your average teenage boys might do, literally trying to make waves and attract attention.  

Stoffies hide provides jaw-droppingly close and intimate looks at elephants coming to water and it is a spot where you will definitely want to spend some time while visiting Hwange in the dry season from about May through October. The borehole and pump supplying Stoffies pan were recently upgraded and it now holds more water than ever before, even right into the teeth of the dry season.   

To be sure, elephants are not the only animals showing up to drink at the Hwange waterholes. Over the course of the few days we spent in Hwange this time around we saw a sable antelope, several buffaloes, a rare side-striped jackal, giraffes, impalas and a multitude of bird species come to the water. The elephants almost always steal the show, but the other visitors and the resident hippos keep things interesting. Literally never a dull moment. 

The guiding

The guiding in Hwange and elsewhere in Zimbabwe is among the best in Africa with the Zimbabwe professional guiding licence setting the gold standard for the rest of the continent. So you will be with guides who have had as much as seven years of in-depth instruction and learning under the supervision of a seasoned mentor. The Zimbabwe guides are superb all-round naturalists and because of their intensive qualification process they are permitted to walk with guests inside of the national parks. In many other parts of Africa the opportunities to walk inside national parks are limited by the availability of qualified walking guides and national parks rangers. 

We were fortunate to work with both Camelthorn head guide Vusa Ncube and his guide training mentor Mark (‘call me Butch’) Butcher, Imvelo’s Managing Director. Vusa is an ebullient, knowledgeable guide and clearly an all round good guy. With him around, we felt safe and cared for from the word go. Even when we ventured out of the vehicle to take a closer peek at the elephants browsing, we could tell that Vusa was not going to get us into a potentially dangerous situation unnecessarily. Sometimes the unexpected can happen but when you are out on foot with a ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guide you can rely on their experience and their knowledge of animal behavior to keep you safe.   

The big cats and more

Beyond the elephants, the many giraffes, eland, zebra and other plains game and amazing bird life, when you find yourself in Hwange there is always a chance to see one or more special mammals such as lions, African painted dogs, cheetahs, and two unique species of antelope, sable and roan. These animals can be seen elsewhere but Hwange is one of the best places for sable and roan, and it’s a good bet for the painted dogs and cheetah as well.  

Lions are regularly seen in Hwange. This time around, we would cross paths several times with a pride of 10 lions with 7 youngsters of several litters. On our very first outing, the three females were in a hunting mode, targeting some wildebeest. It was fascinating to see the females skulking about, alert as could be, with one of them being pre-positioned to ambush one of the wildebeest should they inadvertently venture too close. Unfortunately it did not pan out with the wildebeest either smelling or seeing one of the lions and taking off into thicker bush. We were as disappointed as the lions must have been. 

We found the lions again later in the day and I managed a few good exposures of three or four of the cubs bunched together at the base of a termite mound with a tree log positioned right in front of it. I just knew one or more of them would get on it, and bingo… The following day we found a solitary female lion in an open area where – for a minute there – she thought she had a chance to take down some wildebeest. The wildebeest spotted her soon enough but she then proceeded to position herself nicely on a termite mound. The photographer in me would have preferred a chase sequence, but happily settled for a nice profile shot. 

The white rhinos

If you spend time at Imvelo’s Camelthorn or Bomani camps, there’s an added bonus to being in Hwange: an included visit to the Ngamo Community Rhino Conservation Initiative (CRCI). This project places local communities at the heart of the conservation effort and engages them as rhino custodians. Already, the revenue from guests visiting the sanctuary is directly benefiting the community, such as by funding a health clinic. 

When visiting the Rhino Sanctuary guests are allowed to and in fact encouraged to approach the two adult white rhinos on foot. An awesome experience. During our visit, we also observed two anti-poaching demonstrations. The first one involved Ragnar, a Belgian Malinois who was only too keen to run down a volunteer perpetrator wearing a protective sleeve. We also observed and participated in a simulated ‘jungle lane’ search and engage mission. With a crack squad of anti-poaching personnel engaging in a rapid pursuit scenario, briefly pausing to aim and hit pop-up targets, using a .22 caliber rifle. The accuracy and precision were impressive.  Guests are welcome to participate in this activity to the degree they feel comfortable with; two of our party tried their marksmanship with some success!

Observing the gargantuan white rhinos – who weigh up to 5,000 pounds and more –  at close range, on foot, supercharges their prehistoric appearance. One has to wonder how it is even possible for something so massive and cumbersome, so seemingly helpless, to continue to survive in an avaricious world where its horn has been imbued with spurious benefits. Sadly we may very well be the last generation to see rhino in the wild in more than just a few highly protected pockets. 

A sense of community 

From Camelthorn and Bomani – and also from the Wilderness properties in southern Hwange –  you can do a 2-hr visit (in between game drives) to Ngamo village, for a meaningful yet relaxing cultural experience. You can spend a bit of time chatting with Johnson Ncube, the headman, who will show you around, likely invite you into his home and time permitting (if the school is in session) you could have a peek into a classroom. I found it to be a good ‘slice of life’ experience, and it didn’t feel forced in any way. A highlight was walking to school – or at least part of the way – with a few of the kids. Instant friends.  

Camelthorn Lodge – where we spent several nights – is definitely in need of some sprucing up; we were happy to see someone on site, getting that project started. The brick & mortar rooms are quite big and comfortable, the food is perfectly fine and tasty and the staff, starting with effervescent camp manager Siboe Sibanda, is keen to make your stay as nice as it can be. I quite like the paths between the rooms which wind their way through a dense forest. In the summer heat it was quite a workout walking from one end of the property to the other and back, repeatedly, while keeping an eye out for white rhinos. 

Prospective visitors beware: Hwange is a land of extremes. As brutally hot as this area can get in October (and through early December as we found out, getting there just as a heatwave set in), temperatures can drop to near freezing in mid-winter months like June and July. Prepare accordingly. 

Getting there

On startup it sounds like an overgrown Harley Davidson motorbike. Getting into and out of it is a bit of an adventure. The luggage compartment is barely 10 inches high and holds about as much as a good sized wheelbarrow. I’m talking of course about the Cessna 206 Stationair which unexpectedly turned out to be our mode of conveyance for the one hour flight from Victoria Falls to  Camelthorn camp in Hwange. 

It has been a while since Kathy and I had flown in a 206 but it started to feel quite familiar, quite soon. The noisy take-off, feeling the power of the 310 horsepower Lycoming engine and a slow ascent to around 7600 feet above sea level where we spent the next 55 minutes or so. We reached a respectable maximum cruising speed over 150 mph, maybe touching 185 on the slow descent into the Bomani Airstrip. All in all a fun ride.  

If you have misgivings about tiny planes, fear not; light air transfers from Victoria Falls to Hwange are usually done in the bigger (12-seater) Cessna 208 Caravan. The work-horse of the safari industry in Africa, this single turboprop aircraft is ideal for flight-seeing with its underwing fuselage and its ability to easily negotiate short take-offs and landings on rough bush strips.  

Hwange can also be reached by road on a 3-hour plus road transfer on a road which is not nearly as good as it used to be. It is also heavily used by big trucks, so best avoided. We do recommend including a ride on Imvelo’s Elephant Express rail service along one of the longest straight stretches of track in the world, if transferring from one of Imvelo’s southern Hwange properties (Bomani and Camelthorn) to their property in the north-central part of the park,  Nehimba. Best done under cool weather conditions, the open rail car serves as a pretty good mobile game-viewing platform with species such as elephants and giraffes seen regularly, together with several antelopes and the occasional predator. Definitely a fun time for the kids! 

For suggestions on how to include one or more Hwange camps in your Southern Africa itinerary – and to learn more about the best time of the year for the area – email Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com. We can also be reached by phone at 713-467-5222. Leave a message with the answering service and one of us will call you back.

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Our Most Memorable Safari & Wildlife Experiences Volume 1

Our Most Memorable Safari & Wildlife Experiences Volume 1

Over the course of just about a lifetime of wilderness and wildlife experiences, it’s near impossible to isolate the ‘best ever’ events or sightings, but a few do come to mind without having to dig too deep. In future issues of our newsletter we’ll find out about their best experiences and places from the other members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team. Here are a few of mine:

My first visit to Botswana

My very first visit to Botswana in February 1990 had a lot of firsts. First off-road game drives in an open-sided vehicle, first time seeing the Okavango Delta, first mokoro outing and several others. Even so, the single most memorable event during the trip was something completely unexpected and not likely to happen ever again.

It seems rather bizarre in retrospect but as strange as it sounds, I accompanied the then manager of the now defunct Tsaro Lodge on a rescue mission to extricate the Swedish Ambassador to Zambia from a dangerous situation. His 4-wheel drive vehicle had sunk down to its axles in the sticky black cotton soil of the Mababe Depression. Imparting a sense of urgency to everything: the diplomat had been bitten by a spider which did not know about diplomatic immunity. To make matters worse, a large pride of lions – of the elephant-killing kind – was closing in on his campsite. The honorable gentleman had been traveling with his teenage son who hiked out of this mess – rifle in hand – following random bush tracks until he stumbled into Tsaro Lodge early that afternoon. Where I happened to be the only guest.

Needless to say I accepted – with alacrity – an invitation to go along on the rescue mission which turned into an adventure like few I had ever experienced before, or since. Standing in the back of a vintage Land Rover – tightly gripping the railing on the left and right, we skidded around tight, muddy corners and splashed through pools of rain water in an utterly remote corner of northern Botswana in the gathering dusk. In what was very much a race against time. And, as it turned out, a successful one with the gentleman in question being ok – and definitely relieved – to see us and his son, appearing from the shadows.

What do I remember best about the escapade? Adding three new life birds to my list on the drive out, including African rail and painted snipe. In hindsight I probably did not quite grasp the seriousness of the situation.

Finding my first Bengal tiger in India

There’s before and there is after. Before you got married – and after. Before you had children – and after. There’s also before you see your first tiger in the wild – and after. The African big cats are amazing – individually and collectively. Yet a tiger sighting trumps them all.  

There was a time when it was really difficult to see tigers – anywhere – and visitors often returned from India with accounts of having to settle for just a glimpse. Stripes disappearing into the jungle, a tantalizing tail and that’s it. Fortunately that is no longer the case and one’s chances of coming eye to eye with a tiger are excellent if you spend at least a few days in one of the premier tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh in central India. Which is where my colleague Lyndon and I saw our first tiger, in Bandhavgarh National Park.

Seeing our very first tiger in the wild in January 2023 was a heart-stopping, jaw-dropping moment, never to be forgotten. Never had I seen an animal quite as confident as that adult tiger male, striding around Bandhavgahr as if it was his personal fiefdom. Seemingly totally without fear, not even bothering to glance in our direction, it walked from one side of a road to the other and then back again, emerging from the forest in beautiful morning light, all the better to appreciate and photograph its incredible color pattern. For obvious reasons, a Bengal tiger is often described as being ‘unmistakable’ in field guides. Its vivid reddish-orange coat with prominent black stripes, a white belly and white spots on the ears are one of a kind and impossible to be confused with any other big cat. A life-changing experience? Absolutely. Right away, I realized that this was an animal I wanted to see again, and more than once.

Painted dogs turn the tables

Some years ago – operating out of Kwando’s Lagoon Camp in northern Botswana – we had two vehicles going out one morning in search of a pack of African painted dogs. The dogs had been seen in the area the previous several days but as it was in March, they were not denning. Which happens around June or July or so, during the southern African winter. During the denning season the painted dogs have their pups holed up in an abandoned hyena den or similar spot, deemed to be safe by them. Food is then brought to the pups and regurgitated. Once the pups are old enough to travel with the pack, the dogs become semi-nomadic, traveling many miles between hunts during the southern African summer months. The landscape in much of the Kwando Concession is very lush at that time of year as it is well into the rainy season. At the time, there were dense thickets, huge expanses of stunted but well-leafed mopane trees and green bush in every direction.

For the better part of three to four hours we seemed to be driving in circles, with the guides talking to each other in Setswana all the time, pointing at the clearly visible dog tracks, all while driving in and out of tight spots, being careful to avoid broken, splintered mopane stumps which puncture tires all the time. Every now and then the two vehicles would intersect and the guides would have an animated conversation, with a lot of pointing and gesturing and surely a few choice Setswana expletives in the mix. And off we’d go again, relocating the painted dog tracks and restarting the pursuit. This went on for more than three hours, as I said and it was getting to be rather frustrating for all involved.

At around 1030 am the decision was made to stop for morning tea and coffee at a convenient water hole. I’m sure the guides were just as keen as the guests were to take a break from the relentless pursuit. We stopped under some trees within sight of the water hole, everone piled out of the two vehicles and the guides were just starting to set up a few small tables when the unexpected happened. First one and then three, and then a whole bunch of African painted dogs emerged from the treeline and headed straight down to the water hole on the opposite side. Right in front of our disbelieving eyes. They were ready to slake their thirst and cool off as well, and the presence of a few humans was not enough to deter them. The dogs had found us! While I initially ribbed the guides for not being able to find the dogs, I later realized it was their tracking expertise which had gotten us that close to the pack. It was indeed the skill and experience of the guides which led us to being positioned in just the right spot for something like that to have happened.

The area where this happened – in the massive Kwando Concession in far northern Botswana – is still one of the best places in Africa to find painted dogs. Other contenders include the Sabi Sand Reserve and Madikwe Private Game Reserve in South Africa, Hwange and Mana Pools National Parks in Zimbabwe, Chitabe Camp and the Kwara area in N. Botswana and the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia.

Dueling Sable antelopes

Wilderness’ Davison’s camp is located in the southern part of Hwange, close to Ngamo Pan. Hidden within the treeline, this classic African safari camp, with eight light and airy tents and one family unit, overlooks an open plain and a waterhole which is heavily frequented by elephants and buffalo in the dry season.

The main area consists of a spacious lounge and dining area, leading onto a large deck with an open campfire area, perfect for evening get-togethers. The small pool and its loungers are beautifully positioned for relaxation, while the deck is an ideal location from which to watch wildlife at the waterhole.

Nearby Ngamo Pans is a jewel of a place year round and this camp – or Wilderness’ Little Makalolo or Linkwasha Camp – is a great choice for the area. On a recent visit we enjoyed several game viewing highlights with our professional guide including some fantastic views of a herd of sable antelope seen in good light inside a beautiful rosewood forest.

Sable antelopes are as distinctive and majestic as any animal anywhere in the world. With their massive swept back horns, black coats and glaringly obvious white bellies, the male Sables are unmistakable. The females are more brown than black and their horns are not quite as long and decurved, but they are no slouches in the beauty stakes either. We took dozens of photographs and stayed with the sable herd as long as we could.

The following day – which also happened to be our last day in the Hwange area – we were already packed and in the vehicle en route to the Linkwasha airstrip when we came upon two male Sables fighting, or dueling. During the mating season, male sable antelope are known to engage in fierce battles with other males to compete for females and establish dominance. As we were to see firsthand, these fights can be intense and may result in injuries, or worse. The two bulls seemed to be practically oblivious to our presence and continued to swing their curved, sharp-ended horns at each other, the loud ‘thwacks’ incongruously drowning out bird calls and some nervous impala snorting. Reluctantly, and regrettably, we had to depart from the spellbinding scene before it had reached its end, as we literally had a plane to catch. We may never see something like that again, but it is certainly imprinted in our collective memory.

Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe is by far the best place in Southern Africa to find and observe Sable antelopes, but they’re also found in northern Botswana where we’ve seen them at Wilderness’ Vumbura camps, at Great Plains’ Okavango Explorer and also at Natural Selection’s Duke’s camp in the northern part of the Delta.

Experiencing the zebra and wildebeest migration for the first time

On my very first trip to Tanzania many years ago, a buddy and I drove all the way from Kenya into Tanzania via the Namanga border post, initially to a camp on the northern side of Kilimanjaro. From there, a couple of days later, we pushed on via Arusha and then – on an atrociously bad road – up onto the escarpment, spending a couple of days at a lodge on the edge of Ngorongoro Crater.

All this was great and well, but what we really came for was the zebra and wildebeest migration. And then, on April 1 that year, we got lucky and found ourselves surrounded by thousands of wildebeest and zebras in every direction, as far as we could see, on the short-grass plains of the Serengeti in the Ndutu area. This is how I described it back then, upon my return to Texas:

“Yes, Virginia there is a wildebeest migration and it is showing right now, somewhere in the theater of the vast Serengeti Plains. And what a picture it is. My first thought upon gazing out over thousands of wildebeest was that in the face of a spectacle like that, all technology fails. There is no camera or other device which can do justice to such a scene, all sound and fury in a 360 degree arc, non-stop movement and action as the wildebeest succumb to instinct and follow the rain across the Serengeti’s sea of grass. Parting ahead of us like water around the prow of a boat, the wildebeest in their hundreds practically engulfed our vehicle, splashing across the muddy, wet shortgrass plains in the Ndutu area. Sounding like a bunch of bullfrogs on steroids, grunting and carrying on something fierce, they bulldozed ahead, seemingly mindless of the rogue hyenas and lions lurking all around. In the space of a couple of hours or so, we must have seen between 200,000 and 300,000 wildebeest. Unbelievable, and simply amazing.”

Every safari is an opportunity for uforgettable moments. Call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to learn more and to start planning your safari.

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Lyndon Revisits Mana Pools, Zimbabwe

Lyndon Revisits Mana Pools, Zimbabwe

Mana Pools is a near-legendary national park which lies along the lower Zambezi River in far northeastern Zimbabwe. Renowned for its game viewing (elephants, big cats, buffalo, plains game & African painted dog), the area is highly atmospheric and for many seasoned safari goers, Mana Pools is the holy grail. Being on the Zambezi and with the Zambian escarpment visible in the background across the river, the setting is very special too. Over the years, all of our team members have traveled to Mana Pools, checking out several of the properties in the area including Ruckomechi and Little Ruckomechi, Chikwenya (in its former and current iteration), John’s Camp, Vundu, Kanga and Nyamatusi. On his recent May trip with Christine, Lyndon visited two relatively new properties in Mana Pools, namely Mana River Camp and Ingwe Pan Camp. He also revisited Ruckomechi.  

Ruckomechi Camp

We had an afternoon light air flight from Matusadona to Mana Pools and a short game drive on arrival. The flight was short, about 30 minutes, and scenic. The Kariba Dam was clearly visible from the air. Looking at it from 6,000 feet I couldn’t help but wonder how it has managed to keep all of that water at bay since 1959. Quite an engineering marvel. Our game drive was productive and after going multiple game drives without a cat sighting we spotted two lions not 10 minutes from the airstrip. It was a mating pair, a young male and female. They were exhausted and after observing them for a few minutes we let them be.

Just a bit later we found the brother of the male lion we had just seen. And he put on an absolute show giving us a roaring exhibition for the ages! If lions could be opera singers this guy was one of The Three Tenors. We heard him and his brothers roaring all night from the camp. Our sundowner was late due to our start time and our guide Faidon prepared it for us while we sat in the vehicle after the sun had already gone down. As he was preparing the drinks and snacks some elephants ran by us in a hurry responding to a call from one of their babies. Faidon is an impressive person having spent 42 years with African Parks before deciding to become a guide. 42 years! And he is so enthusiastic about wildlife.

Our activity ended with some spotlighting and we were very fortunate to see several genet cats and a serval, only the second one spotted by the camp so far this year. On our way back to camp we spotted the business end of a porcupine and also had to turn around and take a different route because the mating pair of lions had decided to take a nap in the middle of the road. Best not to disturb them…

Ruckomechi is perched very scenically on the river with the Zambezi escarpment in the background and surrounded by several very tall and shady trees. Hippos can be heard at night. During our dinner we had a couple of elephants walk right past the front of the camp. They tend to move around the area often, so escorts to and back from guest tents are mandatory when the sun is not up. Dinner was roasted chicken and garlic with rice and veggies served with rice. The soup was a tasty mixture of tomato, celery, and apple and dessert was a ginger tart. Everything was good.

As I discussed with my wife, the rooms are right out of goldilocks and the three bears. Just right. Just the right size, just the right amount of decoration and luxury, not too much and not too little. Everything that you need and maybe only a few things you don’t as well. It had been a very good start in Mana Pools.

The following day we did a couple more game drives and while they were not quite as productive as our initial one, they still delivered. Of course, we saw all the general plains game and a good amount of elephants and additionally we saw the lions a few more times. We were able to observe a small herd of eland and later a lone gigantic eland bull at a very close range, a rarity as they are usually shy and will run from vehicles. We briefly spotted the elusive honey badger as it ran across the road on its way somewhere in a hurry. During the afternoon we had a family of elephants walk through camp right by the tents, including ours.

*Camp photos courtesy Wilderness Ruckomechi

Mana River Camp

After our two nights at Ruckomechi we were scheduled to take a boat transfer down river to Mana River Camp. Pick up was 7 in the morning so we had a normal wake up routine and headed out to the beautiful main area to take in the views and enjoy some breakfast while we waited. After a short time we heard a boat engine and got ready to take the short drive to the ‘dock’ area. But then the sound disappeared, and we were left waiting for another half hour to 45 minutes. Eventually we saw a boat drifting downriver, powerless. The captain was actually rowing. Our transfer boat had broken down. Ruckomechi quickly reacted and sent a boat of their own to tow in the vessel and we were told another boat would come but it would not arrive for another 45 minutes. No big deal and our guide decided we had time to go for a quick game drive. Good thing we did because we managed to spot a couple big male lions! This kind of quick thinking is one of the reasons we love Africa. Things might go wrong but the people are resourceful and we can sleep better knowing that we and our clients are in good hands.

Once our new boat arrived we were radioed and headed over from our game drive to the dock. This boat was a bit smaller and had no roof but I think it must have been a bit quicker too. We zigzagged a bit down the river, the captain sticking to the deeper water as best he could. Soft drinks and bottled water were provided for us. It was quite an enjoyable voyage although we were heading directly into the sun and were moving too quickly to confidently wear hats. So we definitely received a little sun. In all, the transfer probably took an hour. We were dropped off and met our new guide, Richard, who was waiting for us at the designated pick up spot. After a quick trip to the National Parks office we were off on a drive in search of some lions that had just been spotted with a fresh kill.

En route we had a fantastic up-close viewing of a woodland kingfisher, quite a colorful and handsome bird. Richard said he had never been this close and was excited about the picture he was able to take. You know it’s good stuff when the guide takes out their personal camera.

The setting in Mana Pools could be described as quintessential Africa. It looks just like you picture it. Or at least how I do. Tall trees sprinkled in amongst open spaces and short grass. Sandy dirt roads that wind up and down and across dried up streams where you are thankful that the guide has a land cruiser. Green leaves and long dead and dried up stumps. A picturesque floodplain with a mountain range on the other side. In a setting like this it can be fun to simply be a passenger and be driven along for a while at times. Animals are present but there are quiet stretches that remain enjoyable.

After driving for a while, we arrived at the scene where the lions had taken down what looked like a big eland. The lions were as full as I have ever seen, the males comically so. There is a hierarchy when feeding and the large males eat first and can really gorge themselves. One in particular looked like if he had laid down on a hill he would have rolled to the bottom. It was around noon and hot outside and they were all panting heavily. I think we have all been out for dinner and had some regrets about eating too much… We spent some time observing them before heading back to camp.

Mana River Camp is an adventure level camp so it is rustic but has all the basics that you need in the bush. Electricity, check; running water, check; comfortable bed, check; good food, check; and most importantly friendly and thoughtful service, and high-level guiding. Check and check. The location is pretty special too with the camp about 12-15 feet up overlooking a nearby island right on the Zambezi. There are plenty of large trees here to help shade the tents and keep the temperature bearable. All the rooms have a standing fan as well. There is WiFi but it has been inconsistent so I wouldn’t count on joining any Zoom meetings from here. Not that you will want to.

Activities here and in Mana Pools generally include game drives, walking, canoeing, and fishing. Often game drives will be mixed with walking as the guides love to drive for a while and then either go for a walk where they know there will be animals or when they see for example an elephant in the distance or something of interest. The walks can be very rewarding and a welcomed change of pace from sitting in the vehicle. You will be given instructions about following in a single file line, watch your step, listen to the guide’s instructions at all times, and of course the golden rule of the bush – whatever happens, don’t run. The walking guides here are the best in the business. It takes a long time – as much as five to seven years – to become qualified. In fact you need to go on hundreds of walks with other pro guides before you can lead them. And before you do that you need to be fully certified and trained with a rifle which the lead guides carry with them on all walks.

Our evening game drive involved such an instance where we did a drive and got out of the vehicle multiple times. Once in order to get a closer and lower to the ground view of a bunch of vultures that were feeding on the remains of a dead hippo. We followed the guide and listened when he said to duck a bit here and there to try not to disturb the birds. Later we drove to one of the four actual Mana Pools for which the park received its name. In the distance a large male elephant was walking towards us. We got out and our guide expertly positioned us to see the elephant cross us and enter the water. And with the sun behind us as well. Hopefully I got a couple good photographs. Richard is very attuned with the needs of photographers and even though I would still consider myself a novice in this regard I am confident even seasoned photographers would be in good hands.

The following day we had a walk for the ages. In the morning we headed out to find the team members who monitor access to the painted dog den sites to prevent too much stress on the animals. When we caught up with them they were in their vehicle tracking the collared members of the pack. It was apparent the dogs were on the hunt and we followed the vehicle for some time before managing to spot one of them briefly at a bit of a distance. Afterwards we went for a walk of about an hour and a half during which we saw elephants, buffaloes, and finally four lions! I had never seen lions while on foot so that was quite the thrill. It can be very rewarding to see so many animals in that kind of setting. Even while on the vehicle we noticed that there are not too many other vehicles driving around. You do see the occasional car from another camp or even a self drive group but for the most part it feels very remote.

The season in Mana Pools generally begins at the start of May so at the time of our visit it was still early in the dry season. It will be slowly cooling down through June and July and much of the wildlife will be flocking to the floodplains as food and water run out further away from the river. This year is expected to be rough as there has been quite a severe drought. Conditions in May were already more like they are in June and July in most years due to the impending drought. It should be a dramatic scene as we move on through the dry season.

For our evening activity we chose to fish. Canoeing is a popular activity here and in Mana Pools in general as well. With the water level in the river being so low I didn’t think it would be as enjoyable. The fishing activity took place essentially in camp just at the other side and towards the back. We fished from a raised bank directly into the Zambezi about 12 feet below. We almost instantly received bites and before long we had both our first catch, mine a tiger fish and Christine a large catfish. Before it was all over I also managed to snag a large catfish. The activity was a blast and I would definitely recommend trying to mix in a fishing activity during your time here. It can be a relaxing way to enjoy the area in between game drives and walks.  

Editor’s note: the camp actually kept the tiger and Christine’s catfish. We assume they ate the catfish and prepared the tiger for us. My goodness was that thing bony.  That is what everyone says about them and I can now fully confirm. The camp manager, Shepherd, said that the usual preparation involves boiling it and letting the bones separate. Then they take the meat and fry them into meatballs. This way they don’t have to deal with all the bones.

Ingwe Pan Camp

The next morning we did a transfer/game drive to Ingwe Pan. Nothing too notable as far as animals en route but you can definitely tell the difference between the camps near the river and on the floodplain, such as Ingwe. As one moves further away from the river the forest becomes quite a bit thicker and the bushes cover up most of the gaps that you would typically find by the water. It is not usually until the end of June and July that a lot of the leaves on this vegetation will fall off making it much easier to spot animals.

Ingwe Pan camp is located in front of a pan with a constant supply of water so once all the other pans in the area dry up, it becomes  the only source of water around. Even by mid May –  with other sources of water still available – the pan was a productive location for game viewing. Elephants visited the water every day that we were there and actually walked directly in front of our tent on both days. Often you require a guide escort to get to your tent even during the middle of the day. Thrilling to witness the animals at such a close proximity! The main area has a really fantastic view of the entire pan and plenty of seats to take it all in. Meals are eaten here and the service staff is also super friendly so it is a nice area to spend some time in between activities. The rooms are spacious and well lit with indoor and outdoor showers and a fan above the bed for when it gets warm. I would rate them as quite comfortable, luxurious even.

*Images courtesy Ingwe Pan

Ingwe has a small concession but is unable to conduct night game drives with spotlights as of this writing. Our guide AB took us out for a game drive in the evening and we were able to see numerous elephants at the surrounding pans as well as a good amount of plains game. For our sundowner we went to a seasonal riverbed and enjoyed the view as well as the slightly cooler temperatures thanks to the sandy ground. AB is an excellent guide and made our experience with Ingwe two for two in that regard.  He is very engaging and I could listen to him talk about wildlife for hours.

The meals at Ingwe were the best we had on safari this trip. There had been some really good meals but by the end of our stay there was no doubt.

After our first game drive the following drives were unfortunately a bit quiet but as I mentioned earlier, I believe the game viewing will pick up significantly as we get further into the winter. One of the highlights was actually seeing the drag marks that a leopard had made after killing something near one of the pans. There were hyena tracks following and we did not get to track them to the end but can only imagine what occurred. When we had to leave for the airstrip and head back to Victoria Falls we did catch a pretty good glance at a big male leopard who came out of the bush on one side before crossing the airstrip and heading into the bush on the other side. All about five minutes before our plane arrived. What a stroke of luck!

Lyndon is ready to answer any questions you may have about visiting the Mana Pools area of Zimbabwe, as well as Hwange, Matusadona National Park and Victoria Falls. He can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling our office any time (irrespective of your time zone) at 1-800-513-5222. One of us will call you back.  

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Lyndon Visits Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba

Lyndon Visits Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba

Visitors from North America rarely make it to either Lake Kariba or Matusadona National Park in Zimbabwe, which is too bad. Combined with Victoria Falls and either Hwange or Mana Pools, Lake Kariba adds yet another layer of diversity to the already absorbing Zimbabwean experience. Boat safaris, tiger fishing, lake cruises, foot safaris, birdwatching and now even a sleepout on a luxury yacht will keep you occupied and will provide a nice change of pace from game drives. 

Bumi Hills Lodge

Leaving for Bumi Hills from Victoria Falls in May this year, we were in the smaller Cessna 206 which flies pretty low so we were able to get some good views of Kariba on the approach. From the Bumi Hills airstrip it is a very short distance to get to camp – maybe 10 minutes. We met our guide Max on arrival in camp. The lodge is gorgeous with spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding floodplains. You can see elephants from the main area –  they look tiny. 

Bumi Hills Lodge has numerous activities on offer including game drives and walks as well as a boat cruise or fishing – or most likely a combination. There is a spa  available as well as a 24/7 fitness center. A village visit was also mentioned if guests want to do it. We suggest that it be requested in advance. The main area at Bumi Hills has an infinity pool, likely the best one on the lake. Many a gaze has been directed over the lake from this elevated spot with the pool having been around for decades; the original Bumi Hills Safari Lodge opened in 1975.  

The rooms are as nice as you would expect. All with great views, plenty of space, complete with bath and outdoor shower. African Bush Camps offer essentially a room attendant as well as a personal host to take care of your every need. I really do feel like they work well together and enable you to get the most out of your stay.

Our evening game drive was productive. I did not expect to see the quantity of animals that we did, gathered in the open areas near the lake. Tons of impala as well as zebra, bushbuck, warthogs, and elephants, as well as bird species in high numbers. Sunset was beautiful – even beyond the normally enthralling African sunset. On the way back to camp with the spotlight, we saw a white-tailed mongoose and side-striped jackal. Porcupines live underneath the camp and the staff pointed them out to us just before dinner.

The food was good at Bumi Hills. Lunch was a ‘build your own pizza’ and for dinner we had the choice of lamb chops or stuffed chicken. Of course we both went with lamb. It was good; but Bert’s has it beat by a good margin.

For the morning activity we decided to go fishing. We were looking for bream and vundu (a large variety of catfish) because it is really not a great season for tiger fish. Our first spot was close to where the boat was docked. The area did not seem like it was very active and we quickly moved on. The second spot was another story and we started reeling in bream constantly. They are good fun and while we caught them our guide Max threw out a different line to see if he could snag a vundu. That line finally hit and Christine managed to pull in our first catfish. It was sizable but the species can grow much larger. We are hoping to take another shot at landing a whopper at Changa.

In the afternoon Christine had an hour massage scheduled and while she was busy with that I took a swim in the infinity pool. Simply spectacular views out onto the lake and the water was the perfect temperature. Great place to spend an afternoon!! After this we enjoyed a quick lunch before heading back to the room.

Our evening activity was a sundowner cruise. This time we went with four other people. We started quite late, around 4:00. It took us a little while but we sped out to a spot in the middle of a large number of long dead mopane trees, dating back to when the dam was built in the late 1950s. Around us all types of birds – but predominantly cormorants – were roosting for the night. No predators out here for them in the tall dead trees. The sunset was top notch but overall the activity felt a bit rushed and while it was nice I would only do it the one time.

Nights at Bumi are pretty because you get to see all the commercial boats out on the lake with their lights fishing for small sardine-like fish called kapenta. The boats do not move and use lights to attract the fish to their nets and then periodically lift them. They can do this a total of 4 times give or take during a night. They will then let the fish dry during the day and package them for sale. All the fishermen pay to obtain a license to fish in the lake and it seems like the populations of the different species of fish are being fairly well maintained. With all the lights it looks almost like a floating city and with the elevated views from the lodge it is quite a scene.

Dinner was two delicious curry options, beef or chicken. Dessert was a fabulous passionfruit panna cotta.

Changa Camp

The following morning our flight to Changa was quite early so we just had breakfast before being transferred to the airstrip. We then had a 15-to-20-minute flight to Changa’s airstrip followed by a 25–30-minute transfer to camp. We spotted two huge male buffalo mudbathing as we landed. We met our guide Crispen on arrival. Changa is located inside the Matusadona National Park, unlike Bumi Hills, which is adjacent to it on community land. It is right on the edge of the floodplain overlooking Lake Kariba. A similar variety of activities are offered at both camps.  

I spent a bit of the afternoon in the pool in the main area. The water temperature was cold but very refreshing. I was joined in the distance by a solitary elephant and a hippo that decided to get a head start on dinner. Christine spotted a snake near the restroom, but it slithered off before I could get a look at it. The camp manager had told us that snakes are around but that 99 percent were not venomous.

For our first evening we chose to go take a look at Sanyati Gorge (45 minute to an hour boat ride). It was worthwhile and I would recommend it. The gorge is scenic, very rocky with tall hills surrounding it and lush forests and plants surrounding you. You will see a lot of crocs so if that is something you are interested in this is just the ticket. We ended the activity with a sundowner at the lake before heading back to camp.

Changa is more rustic than Bumi for sure but has its own charm. The main area is a bit sparse but there is a pool and you have a good view of the lake. The rooms are nicer than I was imagining they would be. Outdoor bath and shower available.

For dinner we had pork belly and it was really good. Dessert was a caramel panna cotta. Activities are decided on during dinner the night before. So we decided at dinner that we would like to do an early morning game drive with a packed lunch.  

Morning wake up was at 5:30. Coffee was delivered to the room along with some breakfast rusks. We set off with a packed breakfast to make the most of the cooler morning temperatures. The drive started off slowly as we saw only the occasional antelope, warthog or baboon. Things started picking up as we got a bit further from camp and we started spotting elephants with some regularity as well as zebras which were recently semi-reintroduced by African Parks. Their numbers had been decimated before due to a large lion population and although they were still around their numbers had dwindled. African Parks took over Matusadona in 2019 and have started implementing new conservation practices such as strictly enforcing anti-poaching and reintroducing species that have previously been wiped out.  

Speaking of lions, their numbers have also fallen. When the lake floods many of the prey animals wind up starving to death which is a boon in the short term but long term it forces the lions to rely on hunting hippo or even crocodiles. Their numbers are increasing now though with the plentiful availability of prey species. In fact there is a pride of over 20 lions in the park that have a territory from Changa all the way to the border, the Tshinga River.

One of the highlights was spotting a leopard tortoise hastily making its way across the road. It turtled up when we approached but Crispen turned off the engine and after a little while you could see the head peeking out and sure enough the arms and legs followed. It started to move again but at a much slower pace than before. These guys can live between 250 to 300 years! Assuming they don’t run into the right predator, that is.

By late May the area was still green and there was plenty of food and even water dispersed in the thick bushy areas. This made game viewing tough but as the water dries up and the food gets eaten all of the animals will start to congregate around the lake which should make for a spectacular sight. Even before the dry season had properly set in, there were large herds of antelope and zebra as well as families of elephants at the shoreline or feeding in the floodplains. This year the later stages of the dry season will be especially tough because there was not a lot of rain. The water level of the whole lake is low and it has not been at full capacity since 2013. Hopefully they receive more rain in the coming years.

For our evening activity we tried our luck with some fishing. This activity gets started a little bit later than others so that the winds die down and the lake becomes still. We only had to travel a short while from the camp’s dock to get to our fishing spot. Things started slowly but picked up after the first fish. We wound up with a couple of good-sized bream as well as several ‘squeakers’ which seem to be an invasive species. They look like a type of small catfish with a vicious set of spines that can even be dangerous for crocodiles to eat. We enjoyed a sundowner before heading back to camp.

The following morning we woke up at 5:30am for a game drive. We were out of camp by around 6. Temperatures are cooler in the mornings but not exceptionally so. By midday it got up to the mid 80s. Again we had no luck with predators but enjoyed some marvelous landscapes and plenty of plains game and elephants. As the numbers of plains game continue to increase you can expect a slow increase in the predators as well. As the season continues and the availability of water becomes more scarce the animals will really start to congregate around the lake making for some epic scenes. June and July should bring more moderate temperatures but it will still be drying by September, October and November which could be extraordinary. Albeit possibly at the cost of your sanity with some real extreme heat. Such is life on safari. 

Lyndon is ready to answer any questions you may have about visiting the Matusadona National Park area in Zimbabwe, as well as Hwange and Victoria Falls. He can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling our office any time (irrespective of your time zone) at 1-800-513-5222. Lyndon or Jason will call you back. 

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