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A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations

Over the last thirty years plus since Fish Eagle Safaris came into being, our team members have been fortunate to observe thousands of elephants. Even so, there is not one among us who will ever tire or become bored of finding and observing these amazing beasts. They are at the heart of a successful safari and like so many other passionate wildlife enthusiasts, we can and do watch them for hours on end. There are elephants in many areas of eastern and Southern Africa, but these five locations are standouts:

Amboseli National Park 

Two things elevate the elephants of Amboseli National Park into superstar status. The one is the fact that they – alone among all the many thousands of African elephants – are the only ones which live and breathe in the rain shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro. With a little bit of luck and skill – and a guide who will already be primed to do this – you too can take a photo putting the elephants between you and the mountain. It’s not too difficult and the results are stellar. 

What is the other thing about Amboseli elephants which makes them special? Their white tusks. But don’t all elephants have white tusks? Indeed they do but if there were a dental whiteness standard for elephants as there is for human teeth, then the Amboseli tuskers would be practically off the charts on the bright side. The reason? Observe Amboseli’s elephants for a day or two and you’ll quickly figure it out. They are continuously moving between the woodlands and the swamps. In the swamps they practically submerge themselves while rooting around for edible plants. In the process undergoing a repeated and ongoing tusk cleanup, more effective than any giant elephant toothbrush ever could be. 

Chobe National Park, Botswana

Botswana is a reliably good elephant destination and specifically so along the Chobe and Linyanti River, as well as along the Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. In those places, elephants gather in their hundreds and sometimes thousands during the dry season as they are dependent on water, having to drink at least once every couple of days or so. By June and through October, this is where they can be seen moving to the water, drinking from it and often getting into it. A Chobe and Linyanti highlight is to see small groups of elephants swimming to nearby islands or simply splashing around. Ideally visitors to the area should spend a good amount of time in the water themselves. On a boat, of course. 

The stable platform provided by a boat or skiff is ideal for photography in a spot which is invariably chockablock with subjects: not only the elephants  but also as many as three or four species of kingfishers; and several ducks, geese, egrets, cormorants, herons, bee-eaters and storks. Plus an abundance of hippos and Nile crocodiles. 

Tsavo East, Kenya 

If I had to pick just one favorite spot in all of Kenya with its incredible diversity it would have to be Galdessa Camp on the Galana River, in Tsavo East. At the very base of the intriguing Yatta plateau – the remnant of the world’s longest lava flow – Galdessa is a simply magical spot. Spend half an hour gazing out over the usually tranquil Galana River, and you’ll almost certainly see some interesting birds and mammals in or close to it. Stick around a little longer and an elephant trunk is likely to be extended up and over the edge of the embankment, silently imploring you to roll a tasty doum palm fruit in its general direction. Several elephants habitually swing by the property to avail themselves of these free treats. 

The undisputed #1 activity from Galana – which is operated by Sheldrick Wildlife Trust – is a half day trip to the Voi Reintegration unit. This is where your fondest elephant dreams come true. Where you come face-to-face with several subadult elephant orphans being readied for release back into the wilderness. Observe their camaraderie, their unbridled joie de vivre, and reflect how every one of them initially made it to the Sheldrick elephant as orphans. Hungry, lonely, lost little souls, somehow separated from their mothers. Seeing them happy and content, feeding, drinking and playing with the other members of their peer group (they are usually released back into the wilderness together) is one of the most heartwarming, most inspirational, simply magical Africa experiences out there.

Mashatu, SE Botswana

Listen to a group of travelers talking about their upcoming trip to Botswana and you’ll hear them mention the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Moremi. Maybe Kalahari. What you won’t hear is Mashatu. Which is a pity as Mashatu is one of Botswana’s best destinations for elephants – and the big cats. Unquestionably, Mashatu private game reserve in the Tuli block in southeastern Botswana is a hugely underrated safari destination. 

Over the course of several visits over the years we have experienced some amazing sightings at Mashatu, several revolving around elephants. The undisputed highlights were a couple of sessions at Mashatu’s Matebole elephant hide. Elephant aficionado heaven. Observe as one, two, a few and then an entire herd of elephants walk right into your field of view, just a few meters away. Put aside the telephoto lens – this is wide angle stuff. Youngsters pushing each other around, big bulls scaring everyone, tiny babies not knowing what their trunks are for. At the height of the dry season it can be an intense experience with even the observers sensing the desperation, sympathizing with the survival instincts so starkly on display there. 

While one can never get tired of watching elephants and elephant behavior, Mashatu has plenty of other things to see and do. Spend three or four nights there and you’re likely to see lots of plains game species as well as lions and leopards, and perhaps even cheetahs. They are not always present, but when they are, they are relatively easily seen being diurnal cats which roam around, hunt and kill during the day.  

Mashatu lends itself to foot safaris, which can be done in lieu of a game drive at no additional cost, or which can be added as an extra activity at nominal additional cost. At additional cost (not a lot) you can prebook a photographic session in the elephant hide, or embark on a mountain bike safari. If you’re a proficient horseback rider, you may wish to saddle up and go out into the wilderness on a horseback safari.

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

With more than 45,000 elephants resident in greater Hwange National Park, with some seasonal movements mostly within the park, Hwange is solidly in the top three best elephant destinations in Africa. Several of our most memorable elephant viewing experiences occurred at waterholes in Hwange, among others on outings from four Imvelo properties – Jozibanini, Camelthorn, Nehimba and Bomani – and from three Wilderness camps namely Davison’s, Little Makalolo and Linkwasha. In another blog post which can be found here, you can read more about Hwange and what makes it special, beyond the elephants.

On a safari some years ago, Kathy and I were sitting just outside the vehicle on the side of the Makalolo Pan in southern Hwange late one afternoon, observing one after another herd of elephants coming to the water. It was early November and still bone dry, with no early rain having fallen. As a result, the stream of elephants coming to the waterhole was practically never-ending. Herd after herd after herd emerged from the edge of the woodland, the youngsters running ahead in boisterous fashion, all intent on quenching what is usually a substantial thirst in the dry season. We would watch as the elephants initially focused – almost exclusively – on just getting in as much water as fast as they could. Trunkful after trunkful, their huge heads and tusks would go up and down, sometimes in tandem with the other elephants around. Which was the cue for us to press the shutter release buttons on our cameras.  Getting a bit of synchronicity into a wildlife photo can be appealing.  

And then the unexpected happened. On that afternoon, Kathy and I each had a camera focused on the elephants. When the shutter release sound on her camera suddenly stopped, I wondered what was going on and looked to my right, where she was seated. She was looking directly at me, wide-eyed and used a small head movement to prompt me to look behind her. I immediately realized what was happening. A huge herd of elephants was in the process of approaching the waterhole from the side where we were parked. They split left and right of the vehicle, streaming past on our right and left, very close by. Hence the interrupted photography. We looked at our Wilderness guide who gave us a thumbs up sign, indicating that all was fine and that we were in no danger.  

For a few minutes there, we sat in awe of the huge beasts softly trundling past us in the direction of the water. Almost without a sound – the massive pads on their feet muffling the sounds of their footsteps – they glided right by us with no more than the occasional cautionary glance. In the late afternoon light they were beautifully lit and we could see the finest details on their massive heads and trunks, their gleaming tusks and finely rippled, charcoal grey hides. It was awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word. I like to think that there was nothing we could have done to have improved on the experience. It was as perfect as an encounter with wild animals could be: the elephants were not displaced or distressed in any way, not scared or disturbed. Which is of course how one ideally wants every interaction with wild animals to go. Spellbinding and fascinating, yet not intrusive or disruptive.  

There are a myriad of safari options where one or more of these elephant havens can be included in a thoughtful and practical way. Particularly for a first safari but certainly not exclusively so – we think it is essential to include a really great elephant experience: Amboseli, the Chobe-Linyanti-Selinda corridor, Tsavo East, Mashatu and Hwange all fit the bill. So email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to help you figure out a plan for your next trip to do just that. Or call us at
Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222 any time; we will get back to you promptly. 

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A Grand Finale: Great Plains Conservation’s Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camps

A Grand Finale: Great Plains Conservation’s Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camps

Big cats high on your list of animals to see on your next or first safari? Then I might suggest that you include the massive Selinda Concession in far northern Botswana in your trip itinerary. When designing an African safari, one always hopes that it will end on a highlight. We spent the last three nights of our early December 2024 safari in two Great Plains Conservation properties – Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camp. While this was not actually the original plan – the sequence had to be changed due to a booking glitch – we could not have scripted the grand finale any better.  

Selinda Explorers Camp

By helicopter it took around 40 minutes to cover the approximately 80 miles from Tawana to Selinda Explorers camp, a tiny tented camp tucked into a riverine forest along the (then) dry Selinda channel. When we stepped out of the helicopter on what was another scorching hot day in northern Botswana, we had seen a lot on our trip to that point. But we had seen neither leopards nor cheetahs. So for those last three nights, our objective was two-fold: find these two (often) elusive members of the big cat family and try to see 111 different bird species in 72 hours. Which qualifies one for membership of Great Plains’ 111 club and scores you a nice cap in the process.

Selinda Explorers feels and is remote. For me personally it is the ideal iteration of a safari property. A truly classic tented camp, Selinda Explorer has three custom designed canvas guest tents and one 2-bedroom family tent. The main area consists of two inviting lounge and dining tents, with the entire camp exuding an atmosphere of warmth and genuine hospitality. A long day out in safari? This place, its people, and the manner in which they treat their guests will have you revived and re-energized in no time whatsoever. 

With our guide Esefa behind the wheel, our afternoon drive took us in a westerly direction along the mostly dry Selinda spillway. I don’t believe we were ever out of sight of what turned out to be an abundance of general game including zebra, kudu, tsessebe, buffalo, giraffe and more. And we started to set a good foundation with the bird list with many woodland species. 

Our dinner that night at Selinda Explorers was, I think, the most fun and enjoyable of any of our meals on safari. With just the six of us tucked in around a beautifully set table, it was as private as it could be and it felt like and sounded like we were in Africa. An approaching thunderstorm added a note of excitement as rain was on everyone’s mind. We would gladly have been drenched to the bone to see some relief for the wildlife and the environment. 

As it turned out the thunderstorm and rain held off until the wee hours of the next morning, and not without some concern on my part as to being safe from lightning. But first, it was time to just enjoy the delicious dinner prepared by the Great Plains chef. Dinners on safari are an opportunity to look back upon the day, recount some interesting or memorable sightings and to appreciate just how special it is to spend another night on safari.  

Zarafa Camp

For the last two nights of our Botswana safari, Great Plains Conservation upgraded our party to their Zarafa camp, a deluxe Relais and Chateaux property located in a great spot overlooking the Zibadianja Lagoon. Even after just one night, we had already grown quite fond of Selinda Explorers but the area was still in the grip of a heat wave, so the prospect of airconditioning in the sleeping areas at Zarafa made it an offer we couldn’t turn down. 

Highlights of our stay at Zarafa included extraordinarily good big cat viewing, starting with a male leopard on the way in, shortly to be followed by what turned out to be our only cheetah sighting of the entire trip. But first, the leopard sighting. It was an enthralling experience, from beginning to end. To start with, it was a miraculous effort by Esefa to spot the leopard in the first instance, as obscured as it was in a big tree, a good 30 meters or more off the road. Once we approached closer, the leopard twice relocated and each time we got a better view. Initially on a branch in the tree with a decent background (meaning not completely backlit) and then it climbed down. Walking straight towards our vehicle in really good light, the leopard then took a look at a nearby tree and, just meters away from us, clambered straight up. It was so close that we could hear the leopard’s claws scratching on the tree bark.  

About 40 minutes after we had been admiring the leopard, we were looking at spots of a different kind, this time watching a sleek cheetah as it made its way across an open area, not far from the Selinda airstrip. The cheetah was not quite as obliging in terms of providing us with photo opportunities, but it didn’t really matter. It was a cheetah and for several persons in our group, the first one they had ever seen. Over the next couple of days we were to enjoy another fascinating sighting of a female leopard who had dragged her baby impala prey into a tree. Also, we were fortunate to bump into 10 more lions, among others, two of the best looking males we’ve seen in a long time, the so-called Army Boys. A big cat bonanza if ever there was one. 

Over the course of three days in the Selinda area we racked up 120 different bird species: with extensive wetlands as well as mixed woodland, riverine forest, open floodplain and acacia thickets, the area has significant habitat diversity which is what it takes to support such an abundance of species. Cracking the 111 species mark would not have happened without our guide Esefa’s enthusiasm and expertise. I think he liked chasing the 111 bird target as much as we did!

Zarafa is a property which delivers a superior wilderness experience on many levels. The under-canvas tented rooms are massive and make a few days on safari about as much fun as can be imagined. Chill out in the plunge pool on a hot day, soak away a dusty day on safari in the large tub or take a quick shower indoors or outdoors – my best advice is to do them all. The four huge guest suites consist of a lounge area which flows to a beautiful bedroom and an open layout indoor bathroom with a gas fireplace, shower and claw-foot bath. A hand-crafted Zanzibar door at the entrance sets the right tone: this is not a run-of-the-mill tent by any stretch of the imagination.  

Being on safari at a deluxe property like Zarafa is synonymous with being pampered and we certainly were. Get ready for the full treatment: delicious, elaborate and expertly prepared meals, served with panache and elegance. Select a fine wine – bubbly if you prefer – from the sizable private wine cellar, or request your favorite cocktails with or without alcohol. Spend a bit of time at the outdoor gym with expansive views over the Zibadianja lagoon.  

Even so, and despite the luxury surroundings, Zarafa is very much in the wilderness and you don’t have to go on a game drive to experience it. One of the best spots in the area is the large deck right in front of camp, overlooking the massive Zibadianja lagoon. At the time of our visit the lagoon was mostly dry, but the remaining water attracted many herds of elephants, which would slowly move into the water from out of the woodlands, quench their thirst and then just as peacefully as they arrived, wander off in another direction. At times there were close to a hundred elephants or more at the same time. Peering through a telescope on the deck, it was possible to pick out the matriarch – the one who keeps things together for the herd – and to take a closer look at the tiny baby elephants, usually seen just a few meters away from an adult female, and often shielded between several of them. 

On the morning on which we had to say our reluctant goodbyes at Zarafa, Kathy and I decided to go and have a quick look at the gym – on the extreme left hand side of the camp – and to take a few pictures from there. What we had not reckoned on or planned for was an ‘elephant delay’ which occurred when a solitary bull elephant quietly made his way right up to the gym as we were looking in a different direction. We knew better than to try to dart across in front of him. So we just waited for a few minutes, giving him some space. With one eye on us and very much aware of our presence, the bull elephant moved past the gym from our left to our right and walked away, using the same path which we had used to get to the gym. We sighed a small sigh of relief, looked at each other with raised eyebrows and walked in the steps of the elephant, back to the lodge. Our safari was over.  

Our colleague Lyndon has visited several Great Plains properties recently so he is well equipped to answer any questions you may have about combining some of Great Plains’ Reserve Collection or Explorers camps in your safari itinerary. Great Plains have a range of first-class properties in Kenya, Zimbabwe and Botswana. Lyndon can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling and leaving a message at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222.

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Our Most Memorable Safari & Wildlife Experiences Volume 1

Our Most Memorable Safari & Wildlife Experiences Volume 1

Over the course of just about a lifetime of wilderness and wildlife experiences, it’s near impossible to isolate the ‘best ever’ events or sightings, but a few do come to mind without having to dig too deep. In future issues of our newsletter we’ll find out about their best experiences and places from the other members of the Fish Eagle Safaris team. Here are a few of mine:

My first visit to Botswana

My very first visit to Botswana in February 1990 had a lot of firsts. First off-road game drives in an open-sided vehicle, first time seeing the Okavango Delta, first mokoro outing and several others. Even so, the single most memorable event during the trip was something completely unexpected and not likely to happen ever again.

It seems rather bizarre in retrospect but as strange as it sounds, I accompanied the then manager of the now defunct Tsaro Lodge on a rescue mission to extricate the Swedish Ambassador to Zambia from a dangerous situation. His 4-wheel drive vehicle had sunk down to its axles in the sticky black cotton soil of the Mababe Depression. Imparting a sense of urgency to everything: the diplomat had been bitten by a spider which did not know about diplomatic immunity. To make matters worse, a large pride of lions – of the elephant-killing kind – was closing in on his campsite. The honorable gentleman had been traveling with his teenage son who hiked out of this mess – rifle in hand – following random bush tracks until he stumbled into Tsaro Lodge early that afternoon. Where I happened to be the only guest.

Needless to say I accepted – with alacrity – an invitation to go along on the rescue mission which turned into an adventure like few I had ever experienced before, or since. Standing in the back of a vintage Land Rover – tightly gripping the railing on the left and right, we skidded around tight, muddy corners and splashed through pools of rain water in an utterly remote corner of northern Botswana in the gathering dusk. In what was very much a race against time. And, as it turned out, a successful one with the gentleman in question being ok – and definitely relieved – to see us and his son, appearing from the shadows.

What do I remember best about the escapade? Adding three new life birds to my list on the drive out, including African rail and painted snipe. In hindsight I probably did not quite grasp the seriousness of the situation.

Finding my first Bengal tiger in India

There’s before and there is after. Before you got married – and after. Before you had children – and after. There’s also before you see your first tiger in the wild – and after. The African big cats are amazing – individually and collectively. Yet a tiger sighting trumps them all.  

There was a time when it was really difficult to see tigers – anywhere – and visitors often returned from India with accounts of having to settle for just a glimpse. Stripes disappearing into the jungle, a tantalizing tail and that’s it. Fortunately that is no longer the case and one’s chances of coming eye to eye with a tiger are excellent if you spend at least a few days in one of the premier tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh in central India. Which is where my colleague Lyndon and I saw our first tiger, in Bandhavgarh National Park.

Seeing our very first tiger in the wild in January 2023 was a heart-stopping, jaw-dropping moment, never to be forgotten. Never had I seen an animal quite as confident as that adult tiger male, striding around Bandhavgahr as if it was his personal fiefdom. Seemingly totally without fear, not even bothering to glance in our direction, it walked from one side of a road to the other and then back again, emerging from the forest in beautiful morning light, all the better to appreciate and photograph its incredible color pattern. For obvious reasons, a Bengal tiger is often described as being ‘unmistakable’ in field guides. Its vivid reddish-orange coat with prominent black stripes, a white belly and white spots on the ears are one of a kind and impossible to be confused with any other big cat. A life-changing experience? Absolutely. Right away, I realized that this was an animal I wanted to see again, and more than once.

Painted dogs turn the tables

Some years ago – operating out of Kwando’s Lagoon Camp in northern Botswana – we had two vehicles going out one morning in search of a pack of African painted dogs. The dogs had been seen in the area the previous several days but as it was in March, they were not denning. Which happens around June or July or so, during the southern African winter. During the denning season the painted dogs have their pups holed up in an abandoned hyena den or similar spot, deemed to be safe by them. Food is then brought to the pups and regurgitated. Once the pups are old enough to travel with the pack, the dogs become semi-nomadic, traveling many miles between hunts during the southern African summer months. The landscape in much of the Kwando Concession is very lush at that time of year as it is well into the rainy season. At the time, there were dense thickets, huge expanses of stunted but well-leafed mopane trees and green bush in every direction.

For the better part of three to four hours we seemed to be driving in circles, with the guides talking to each other in Setswana all the time, pointing at the clearly visible dog tracks, all while driving in and out of tight spots, being careful to avoid broken, splintered mopane stumps which puncture tires all the time. Every now and then the two vehicles would intersect and the guides would have an animated conversation, with a lot of pointing and gesturing and surely a few choice Setswana expletives in the mix. And off we’d go again, relocating the painted dog tracks and restarting the pursuit. This went on for more than three hours, as I said and it was getting to be rather frustrating for all involved.

At around 1030 am the decision was made to stop for morning tea and coffee at a convenient water hole. I’m sure the guides were just as keen as the guests were to take a break from the relentless pursuit. We stopped under some trees within sight of the water hole, everone piled out of the two vehicles and the guides were just starting to set up a few small tables when the unexpected happened. First one and then three, and then a whole bunch of African painted dogs emerged from the treeline and headed straight down to the water hole on the opposite side. Right in front of our disbelieving eyes. They were ready to slake their thirst and cool off as well, and the presence of a few humans was not enough to deter them. The dogs had found us! While I initially ribbed the guides for not being able to find the dogs, I later realized it was their tracking expertise which had gotten us that close to the pack. It was indeed the skill and experience of the guides which led us to being positioned in just the right spot for something like that to have happened.

The area where this happened – in the massive Kwando Concession in far northern Botswana – is still one of the best places in Africa to find painted dogs. Other contenders include the Sabi Sand Reserve and Madikwe Private Game Reserve in South Africa, Hwange and Mana Pools National Parks in Zimbabwe, Chitabe Camp and the Kwara area in N. Botswana and the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia.

Dueling Sable antelopes

Wilderness’ Davison’s camp is located in the southern part of Hwange, close to Ngamo Pan. Hidden within the treeline, this classic African safari camp, with eight light and airy tents and one family unit, overlooks an open plain and a waterhole which is heavily frequented by elephants and buffalo in the dry season.

The main area consists of a spacious lounge and dining area, leading onto a large deck with an open campfire area, perfect for evening get-togethers. The small pool and its loungers are beautifully positioned for relaxation, while the deck is an ideal location from which to watch wildlife at the waterhole.

Nearby Ngamo Pans is a jewel of a place year round and this camp – or Wilderness’ Little Makalolo or Linkwasha Camp – is a great choice for the area. On a recent visit we enjoyed several game viewing highlights with our professional guide including some fantastic views of a herd of sable antelope seen in good light inside a beautiful rosewood forest.

Sable antelopes are as distinctive and majestic as any animal anywhere in the world. With their massive swept back horns, black coats and glaringly obvious white bellies, the male Sables are unmistakable. The females are more brown than black and their horns are not quite as long and decurved, but they are no slouches in the beauty stakes either. We took dozens of photographs and stayed with the sable herd as long as we could.

The following day – which also happened to be our last day in the Hwange area – we were already packed and in the vehicle en route to the Linkwasha airstrip when we came upon two male Sables fighting, or dueling. During the mating season, male sable antelope are known to engage in fierce battles with other males to compete for females and establish dominance. As we were to see firsthand, these fights can be intense and may result in injuries, or worse. The two bulls seemed to be practically oblivious to our presence and continued to swing their curved, sharp-ended horns at each other, the loud ‘thwacks’ incongruously drowning out bird calls and some nervous impala snorting. Reluctantly, and regrettably, we had to depart from the spellbinding scene before it had reached its end, as we literally had a plane to catch. We may never see something like that again, but it is certainly imprinted in our collective memory.

Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe is by far the best place in Southern Africa to find and observe Sable antelopes, but they’re also found in northern Botswana where we’ve seen them at Wilderness’ Vumbura camps, at Great Plains’ Okavango Explorer and also at Natural Selection’s Duke’s camp in the northern part of the Delta.

Experiencing the zebra and wildebeest migration for the first time

On my very first trip to Tanzania many years ago, a buddy and I drove all the way from Kenya into Tanzania via the Namanga border post, initially to a camp on the northern side of Kilimanjaro. From there, a couple of days later, we pushed on via Arusha and then – on an atrociously bad road – up onto the escarpment, spending a couple of days at a lodge on the edge of Ngorongoro Crater.

All this was great and well, but what we really came for was the zebra and wildebeest migration. And then, on April 1 that year, we got lucky and found ourselves surrounded by thousands of wildebeest and zebras in every direction, as far as we could see, on the short-grass plains of the Serengeti in the Ndutu area. This is how I described it back then, upon my return to Texas:

“Yes, Virginia there is a wildebeest migration and it is showing right now, somewhere in the theater of the vast Serengeti Plains. And what a picture it is. My first thought upon gazing out over thousands of wildebeest was that in the face of a spectacle like that, all technology fails. There is no camera or other device which can do justice to such a scene, all sound and fury in a 360 degree arc, non-stop movement and action as the wildebeest succumb to instinct and follow the rain across the Serengeti’s sea of grass. Parting ahead of us like water around the prow of a boat, the wildebeest in their hundreds practically engulfed our vehicle, splashing across the muddy, wet shortgrass plains in the Ndutu area. Sounding like a bunch of bullfrogs on steroids, grunting and carrying on something fierce, they bulldozed ahead, seemingly mindless of the rogue hyenas and lions lurking all around. In the space of a couple of hours or so, we must have seen between 200,000 and 300,000 wildebeest. Unbelievable, and simply amazing.”

Every safari is an opportunity for uforgettable moments. Call us at 1-800-513-5222 or email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to learn more and to start planning your safari.

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Camp Okavango, Botswana

Camp Okavango is in the heart of the permanent part of the Delta. In this idyllic setting there are no vehicles, and it is just a short walk

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Area
Destinations
Nyerere National Park
Ruaha
Tanzania

14th October 2023

From My Safari Notebook: Wildlife Photography

Birds in flight and wildlife photographers have an uneasy relationship. Things go wrong as often as they go right. Getting focus-lock on a moving subject

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India

27th May 2023

India

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Botswana
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4th August 2022

On Safari At Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, Okavango Delta

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Destinations
Zambia

10th September 2021

Chindeni and the Bushcamp Company, Zambia

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48 Hours at Great Plains Duba Explorer and Okavango Explorer Camps

48 Hours at Great Plains Duba Explorer and Okavango Explorer Camps

The most unexpected experience at both Great Plains’ Duba Explorer and Okavango Explorer tented camps, located in remote corners of the Okavango Delta in Northern Botswana, was not the warmth and friendliness of the staff and management. Or the expertise of the professional guides – Paul and Chillie B – which between them helped us find 111 different bird species in 48 hours. Neither was it the quality of the food, particularly the two tasty bush breakfasts. The most unexpected experience at the two classic tented camps was the showers. No kidding. Not just the size of the shower head or the temperature of the water (as hot as you can handle) but the water pressure. Astonishingly high for anywhere. I’m an inveterate bath person but even I enjoyed that deluge of Okavango Delta water washing away the dust and sand. 

Of course, Great Plains Conservation does a lot of other things well. The interiors of the tent were tastefully furnished with a collection of campaign style chests, desks and chairs, and they had proper reading lights, plenty of storage space, a most comfortable king size bed and soft pillows. The vehicles had ample space with three rows each with two seats, separated by a lidded box for electronic gear and other stuff. There were soft blankets for the crisp mornings, cup holders for your morning coffee to go and a sturdy sun cover to provide some shade. 

The dining experience was a solid step up from some of the buffet offerings we had enjoyed earlier. Particularly at Duba Explorer where chef Beauty treated us to a wonderfully romantic poolside dinner with an Italian style panna cotta of tomato starter with a choice of trout or duck (both superb) or a vegetarian main course. The meal was rounded off with a delectable dessert – a chocolate brownie with caramelized sugar and homemade ice cream.  

Yet another exciting helicopter flight with Helicopter Horizons took us directly from Mokete to Duba Explorer with some fantastic sight-seeing en route, flying within sight of several airstrips and safari camps. Every few kilometers there would be new and different vistas over the Okavango Delta with water in every direction. A veritable kaleidoscope of colors, textures and patterns ranging from blue-green to bright green vegetation, almost black sandy spots and swirls, white bleached sand and grey burn patches with the ashy outline of tree trunks demarcating the direction of the fire.

Landing quite close to the camp in a small clearing, our guide Paul (whom we had first met at Mashatu in 2023) drove us the short distance into camp. Duba Explorer has a grand entrance, with every new arrival walking into camp across a sizable bridge over a perennial Okavango Delta waterway. After completing the routine arrival formalities (receiving a camp briefing and signing the indemnity form) we were escorted to our room, one of six tented classic expedition style tents. With ultra comfortable beds, a mosquito net, separate shower and toilet compartments, decent lighting and enough power points. The lounge at Duba Explorer is a fun place to spend a bit of time, with a spacious indoor/outdoor seating area for meals. Just off to the right, there is a small plunge pool built into an antique military style vehicle.   

Our afternoon outing from Duba Explorer was a boating safari along the Okavango River and it reminded me of what we had been missing on the last several game drives in Northern Botswana. Navigable water. The entire two and a half to three hour outing felt like being inside a painting waiting for a canvas and an artist. Simply gorgeous, particularly as the sun started to sink lower and everything was bathed in the golden afternoon sun. Just a few minutes out of Duba Explorer, we took a left turn from a large lagoon into a waterway which seemed to be cordoned off by a sizable raft of uneasy hippos. I had just resigned myself to the fact that the only way forward was going to involve a perilous dash along the far left edge of the stream, when Paul did a 180 degree turn and we headed back in the direction we came from.  

Another left turn got us into a spectacular channel in the direction of Duba Plains. It was one of the best outings of the entire trip, with elephants crossing ahead of us, lechwe giving us the side-eye, kudu visible everywhere and even the usually elusive bushbuck putting in an appearance. We were on a quest to snag one of Great Plains’ special 111 Club caps, given to guests who can spot that many birds over the course of their stay at one or more Great Plains camps. With four pairs of eyes on the boat (Paul, me, Kathy and Kay, a community representative ) we were spotting birds left right and center and by the end of the afternoon our list reached the low 80’s. In hindsight, I think a boating activity in the Okavango Delta – water levels permitting – should be right at the top of anyone’s list of things to do in Northern Botswana. This is what the Okavango Delta is all about and it can only be appreciated and experienced to its full, amazing effect from a boat.  

Our game drive at Duba  Explorer the following morning was initially quiet. We simply could not locate the lions which had been roaring right outside of the camp the previous night. For a while there we had to be content with simply driving through the spectacular grassland scenery. And then, as so often happens on game drives, everything changed. We started to rack up one good sighting after another –  initially a large herd of buffalo, then a large journey of giraffes and eventually a young male leopard about halfway up a tree. The leopard had clearly been observing us enjoying our morning coffee and muffins. Paul had pulled into a spot less than 100 meters away from and in direct line of sight of the leopard.

A short 15-minute helicopter ride took us across some beautiful expanses of Okavango Delta floodplains to the far southern edge of the Selinda Concession to Great Plains’ Okavango Explorer camp. It was in many ways similar to Duba Explorers, just with fewer touches (no plunge pool, scaled down lounge and dining area) and a different, less than ideal bathroom layout with the shower and the screened toilet in the same room. On the plus side, the location right on the edge of the Selinda Spillway is perfect and the camp is in an ecotone with remarkable habitat diversity. This is prime elephant and predator terrain, with lions, leopards and African painted dogs being seen regularly. In addition, as we were to see for ourselves, there are good densities of giraffes and some rare antelopes like roan, sable and eland. All three of which we saw in good numbers.  

Our two game drives at Okavango Explorer with our guide Chillie B, delivered plenty of plains game but were light on predators. This is of course exactly why we recommend that guests spend a minimum of three nights in any one area. Animals move around in real time, they come and go, appear and disappear. You’ve just got to give yourself – and your guides – enough time to make it all happen. And yes, you will almost certainly have a slow morning or afternoon or two somewhere. Sooner or later. As it turned out, we saw a solitary painted dog but the animal was in distress, having been injured or otherwise harmed without any obvious, visible clues.  

On our final morning game drive  we racked up a series of sightings starting with a huge herd of buffalo kicking up a plume of dust as they moved across an island. A bit later we saw some shy zebras, a small group of the superb roan antelope, several herds of eland, elephants, giraffes, more not-so-shy zebras, a hippo out of the water and the highlight of the morning: a nice sized breeding herd of the magnificent sable antelopes. With Chillie B’s help, we reached the mark of 111 bird species in 48 hours in just four outings (three game drives and a boating excursion in the Okavango Delta) at the two Great Plains Conservation Explorers camps. In addition to being fun – and we learnt a lot – it livened up the not so exciting stretches of the outings and incentivized our guides.  

We’re looking forward to spending several days at another Great Plains Conservation Explorers Camp – Selinda – in early December this year. This time, we’ll have 72 hours to reach the 111 bird tally! 

For more information about the Great Plains properties, including some attractive long-stay options for this year and next, please email Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or call us at 713-467-5222 at any time, to leave a message with the answering service. We will get back to you right away.

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Safari Lodge of the Month: Wilderness Mokete, Mababe

Safari Lodge of the Month: Wilderness Mokete, Mababe

Wilderness’ recently opened Mababe-area tented camp – Mokete – has catapulted to the top of many safari aficionados’ must-visit lists.  

Game viewing at Wilderness Mokete is unmatched, renowned for the mega herds that make their way across this private wilderness with a constant supply of water, located on the eastern fringe of the Okavango Delta and the famed Moremi Game Reserve, to the south of Chobe National Park. With its three distinct habitats: grassland plains, mopane and acacia woodlands, and the marsh system fed by the Mababe River, Mokete is home to prides of lion, leopards, cheetahs, packs of wild dogs, bat-eared foxes, jackals, African wild cats and servals. All of which makes for an immersive, exclusive and thrilling safari. There are often huge herds of buffalo in the area, and there can also be huge herds of zebras. Also worth mentioning: two pretty special antelope, sable and roan. They have been seen around Mokete in the dozens if not hundreds. Unlike anywhere else.

The camp offers unconventional safari adventures, where time is dictated by nature, not the clock. In this part of Botswana, it’s not uncommon to see lions on the hunt on the plains during the day, which makes for exceptional photographic opportunities. Guests can choose to stay on a game drive as long as they please, or stop for a lazy bush picnic – or stay out with the predators late at night if they wish. Guided walks can be arranged, or guests may be tempted to spend an afternoon in the sunken hide, eye-to-toe with the elephants.

With only canvas between guests and nature, a stay at Mokete is an immersive feast for the senses. Due to the open layout and high density of wildlife, only guests 16 and older are permitted to stay. There is a swimming pool for warm afternoons and a star bed for cool evenings under the sky.

Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon recently spent a couple of nights at Mokete. Here are some of his observations and his recommendations to make your stay at Mokete even more rewarding than it may otherwise be:

At Mokete there are a number of things that you will definitely want to do during your stay:

  1. Take some time to focus on the lion and buffalo interaction. The large lion prides have got a great setup and pretty much plant themselves between the buffalo herds and the water. Our guide told us they can easily feed a couple of times per day. We did not witness a hunt but every time I saw the lions they were eating something. We took a helicopter ride to the camp and en route we saw the recent aftermath of a hunt with about 12-13 lions feeding on the carcass of a buffalo.

  1. Visit the elephant hide. There is an area that is known as ‘elephant paradise’ and it attracts huge numbers of elephants, especially in the evenings when they come for water. The camp has a hide overlooking the water and we got to spend an evening there. It was fantastic and the number and sheer tonnage of elephants cycling in to drink before heading back into the wooded area was astounding. We went back to the area on our final night (not back to the hide) and it took a long time to drive through due to the high density of elephants. It was quite something combined with the sunset.

  1. Go on an after dinner night drive. I was told this can be requested upon arrival and we can also let the camp know in advance, if this is something you’d like to do. At the time of my visit there was a resident wildlife photographer/film-maker in camp. During one of our dinners he recommended we do this as a group because of all the amazing things he had been spotting during the night. It turned out even better than any of us could have hoped.

    Here’s what we know about night drives: they are very hit and miss. Nocturnal animals are difficult to find with a spotlight due to a narrow field of view and often the only thing you might see at a distance is the light’s reflection in the animal’s eyes. This leads to some premature excitement only to find out you are looking at and heading toward a herd of impala. Mokete is not immune to these annoyances but our night drive started with a bang right out of camp with a giant eagle owl flying and perching in a tree just next to the road. Not five minutes after this we had a splendid viewing of a porcupine. This would typically be a moderately successful night drive already but the real fun hadn’t yet begun.A few minutes later we caught a glimpse of the elusive aardvark. Actually, two. This was my first time seeing one so I experienced some elation as we sped over road and grass to get a better look. What a sighting! Shortly after this we saw a group of four bat eared foxes. Some time passed and we saw a third aardvark, this one alone and much less bothered by our presence than the previous two. We spent a good amount of time observing it as it jogged from one area to the next looking for a meal. They are so much more agile than I could have imagined, which makes sense having to survive in such an environment.

    Up ahead of this there was a large herd of buffalo. Seeing these at night is different because they were having trouble getting a good look at us. This caused them to stop moving completely and stand absolutely still before one gave the call to move and they ran off. Fascinating! Overall I still don’t know if this is what we can expect of a typical night drive at Mokete or if we had incredible luck. The way that the wildlife photographer spoke about what he would see at night leads me to believe that game drives like this might not be as lucky as they felt after all…

  1. Time permitting, visit the northern side of the park that borders the Chobe area. It takes a bit of time to get there but this is the area where we spotted two male cheetahs. The habitat is a bit different and there is enough of a distance from the main lion prides that cheetahs feel safe.

  1. Just general game drives exploring the different areas of the park. It is quite large so this would mainly be on the advice of the guides and what they have been noticing.I think a three or perhaps four night stay should be enough to accomplish most if not all of this.A couple extra notes. The sand there is fine and it can get very dusty. Later in the dry season (my visit was in early May) it  will be even more prominent I suspect. I would highly recommend at minimum bringing a buff or something to cover your mouth and nose (and something to protect camera equipment). The areas by the water where the lions camped out were very bumpy. The guides did not rush through so it wasn’t bad but it was slow going.  

Get in touch with us if you would like to visit Wilderness Mokete. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

Where in Africa to Go Next In 2024-2025

For me the most fun part of our business is designing itineraries. That’s where our 50 plus years of African experience and our team’s regular inspection and educational visits come into play. Rarely do we include a property which we haven’t been to ourselves and never is how often we include a property where guests may be forced into a middle seat on safari. 

Over the years we have gotten better at customizing itineraries to match a particular party’s interests and objectives. Without simply opting for the most expensive properties. 

So where would we go ourselves if we had to book an Africa trip this very minute, using mostly the properties which our Fish Eagle Safaris team checked out over the last couple of months? I asked the members of our Fish Eagle Safaris team to chime in.  

Here is what they had to say:

Lyndon: “I’d opt for a combination of Victoria Falls and Botswana and the trip would ideally include several days at Wilderness’ new Mababe concession camp, Mokete. On just one day there in late May we saw more animals in total, more different species and more rarities (how about aardvark, African wild cat and bat eared fox) than most visitors would see in a week on safari elsewhere.  

Consider taking a business class flight into Vic Falls, if only to get to the front of the line for the visa/immigration process which has lately proven to be quite challenging in terms of duration. Victoria Falls is a good starting point to shake off some jet lag and it acts as a buffer in case of any flight delays. It has many attractive accommodation options including Ilala Lodge, Pioneers, Palm River Hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel and Stanley & Livingstone Hotel. Be sure to include a guided tour of the falls and a jet boat sundowner cruise.  

From there I’d head to Hwange for three or ideally four nights at one of the Imvelo or Wilderness properties such as Camelthorn, Bomani, Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, or Davison’s, depending on budget. I have a soft spot for Hwange and to date this year it has been producing some great game viewing. We’ve previously mentioned that the country is facing what could end up being a serious drought. Game viewing should continue to be good but young and weak, older elephants will be facing an uphill battle towards the end of the dry season.  

Ideally, end your safari with at least six nights in Botswana split between two camps. 

I would put Mokete right at the top of the list for the remainder of this season and likely into the future. It’s a unique Botswana property; on my recent visit there it felt a lot like visiting the Serengeti, somehow relocated to southern Africa. Mokete is really a  ‘must visit’ from now until probably November – and will likely be excellent until then.

With Mokete, I would add a few days at perhaps Karangoma and – for a true Okavango Delta experience at an affordable price point – two nights at a water camp like Setari.    

Our group had a fabulous time during our all too short 2-night stay at the brand new Karangoma. It is an intimate camp with only 6 tents, each one with just the right amount of luxury. The scenery in the north-eastern Okavango Delta is idyllic and the remoteness is unparalleled with a 10-minute helicopter flight required to reach camp.

Setari is also remote and requires a boat ride of about 45 minutes from the airstrip to reach camp. Located in the main artery of the Okavango Delta it has permanent water year-round and is a different, more laid back experience than many other Botswana camps. The perfect way to end a successful trip.

Jason: “One of our most successful offerings has always been a combination of South Africa, Victoria Falls and either Zimbabwe or Botswana. If I could book a trip for a client right now, that’s where I would try to focus my efforts.

With a night in Johannesburg, or a few in Cape Town at the start of the trip to try and mitigate jet lag, the trip would kick off with four nights in Sabi Sand at one of our favorite properties. Mala Mala, Savanna, Sabi Sabi, Leopard Hills and Cheetah Plains all make for excellent choices with varying degrees of luxury and price points. The Sabi Sand is a game-rich Big 5 location and has always produced for our guests.

Next, a light air flight to Kruger’s MQP international airport would connect with a commercial flight to Victoria Falls. Ideally, spend two nights here at properties like The Victoria Falls Hotel, Ilala Lodge or Batonka Guest Lodge. We typically recommend a tour of the falls, a sunset cruise and some free time to explore Victoria Falls Town. You could also fill time with adventure activities like scenic helicopter flights, gorge swings, swimming in Devil’s Pool right on the edge of the falls (time of year dependent) or cultural activities in nearby villages.

The last three to six nights on this type of itinerary would be in Botswana’s Okavango Delta where things can slow down a little bit. With a huge number of amazing safari camp offerings, it’s difficult to decide just where to go. But you can count on our knowledge of the camps and areas to select a combination that would work best for your needs. 

Want to see the highest concentration of wildlife? In that case you’d definitely want to spend some time at Wilderness’ Chitabe/Chitabe Lediba camps. It’s been delivering simply brilliant game viewing with guests treated to mesmerizing experiences involving leopards, cheetahs, lions and African painted dogs, day after day.

Want to relax on the water in a boat or mokoro? Stick with some of the Okavango Delta camps (in flood season) like Wilderness’ Kwetsani, Little Tubu or Jao or Great Plains’ Okavango Explorers Camp. 

Want a combination of land and water activities? Machaba’s Gomoti Plains might be the answer. Even during droughts the Gomoti area has water year-round for mokoro rides and typically there is enough for boating as well. Plus it has plenty of open plains to explore on a traditional vehicle safari. On my recent trip, we found ourselves joining a hunt – bounding through the bush in an attempt to keep up with the effortlessly fast pace of a pack of painted dogs. Later that same morning we were on a mokoro attempting to photograph malachite kingfishers, African jacanas and red lechwe antelopes.

Bert:  We’ve always advised prospective travelers to Africa to  spend more time in fewer areas. Based on my experiences on our most recent trip I think visitors would do well to extend that principle into their day-to-day activities on safari. Ideally by including the services of a private guide and vehicle on at least part of their trip. 

This makes it possible to slow down game drives in order to spend less time actually driving, and more time experiencing. More time to observe, to record, and to learn.  Focusing on the details of specific sightings and not just bouncing around from animal to animal. 

Not trying to check everything off your list often results in unexpected but welcome developments. Mostly in the way of seeing something much more interesting than what you started off with.

Patience and perseverance almost always pays off in the wilderness. We’ve had painted dogs walk into an otherwise blah sighting, we’ve seen ‘stationary cheetah’ turn into ‘running cheetah on the hunt,’ and we’ve experienced baby leopards suddenly and unexpectedly join their mom, right in front of us.   

Where would I go right now, looking mostly at the properties which Kathy and I recently visited in East Africa? I would book my Kenya Airways non-stop flight from JFK to Nairobi, spend a couple of days in Nairobi (for a morning game drive in Nairobi National Park and a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage) and then head to either Lewa or Laikipia for 4 nights. Few other places in East Africa or the rest of the continent for that matter, can match properties like Lewa Wilderness or Kicheche Laikipia in terms of diversity. They have all the usual plains game and the big cats, and on top of that a trio of superb near-endemics in the way of Grevy’s Zebra, reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx.  Plus healthy numbers of both black and white rhinos with their horns intact. 

And then I’d head straight to the Masai Mara, splitting my time there between a property in one of the conservancies to the north of the Mara, and ending with a few days in the Mara Triangle, in the north of the park. These two areas make a great combination, melding the freedom to go off-road inside the conservancy and the ability to drive at night, with the amazing grandeur and spectacle of the Mara Triangle. Inch for inch it is about as fascinating and rewarding an area as one could visit anywhere in Africa. The Mara Triangle is also one of Kenya’s most reliable areas to experience the great migration, within striking distance of several known crossing points. 

Kathy: On our recent visit to Kenya, I was amazed by the abundance of wildlife in three of the private conservancies to the north of the Masai Mara, namely Naboisho, Mara North and Lemek. Almost everywhere we looked, there were zebras in their hundreds. Plus masses of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, topis, eland, buffaloes (some huge herds!), giraffes (so many!), tons of wildebeest, hippos wherever there was water,  elephants – and several prides of lions.  

I would recommend to prospective travelers to Africa to spend up to a week or so in the Masai Mara, split between two of the conservancies or by including an additional few days in a camp which does its game drives in the Mara Triangle, such as Olonana, Little Governors, or AndBeyond Bateleur Camp.   

In addition to the Mara, Kenya has several other superb safari destinations; call or email us and a member of the team will be happy to talk to you about Tsavo or Amboseli, Lewa, Meru or Samburu. We know them all really well and can give you just the right advice as to how they can fit in with a trip to the Mara.  

For now, I will concentrate on the three properties which we visited in the conservancies. Any one of these would be an ideal ‘anchor’ property for a Kenya safari. 

Saruni Leopard Hill – Mara Naboisho Conservancy

The female management team at Leopard Hill is very accommodating and they want to insure your comfort and enjoyment at their lovely little camp. The communal area is attached to the dining area and you will enjoy the view – beautiful fig trees surrounded by 3 waterholes. The dining/communal area is on a platform and there are steps leading to a small area where guests congregate around a small bonfire in the evenings.  

This camp has 6 tents. We were in tent #3. I really liked the generous size and layout of the tents. The rooms also have a skylight which you can open up at night to ‘sleep under the stars.’ Not advisable during the rainy season though. The rooms have a king-size bed, great pillows, desk, daybed/couch, double sinks and separate shower and toilet as well as an outdoor shower. Plenty of room for your gear and a great patio overlooking the game reserve. The rooms are spaced far enough apart for privacy. They also have a honeymoon tent with a nice lounge and a family tent – two tents next to each other with doors (instead of zippers) suitable for a family of 4 

A bonus at Leopard Hill is a complimentary 30-minute back and neck massage – don’t pass this up! The spa tent is in a nice, quiet area and the masseur is a man named Viki Geel who has 18 years’ experience. He is excellent! Viki also offers yoga and stretching. I am so glad I took advantage of this and if I had more time, I certainly would have spent more time at the Leopard Hill Spa!

We had a ‘surprise’ romantic dinner on our patio the second night – very well done.

Wake up – coffee/tea are brought to your room.

We had great game viewing and a bonus here – and in the other conservancies – is the off-roading which makes a big difference if you want to pull up close to a lioness with her cubs hidden in the bushes. As we did.  

Kicheche Camp:  Mara North Conservancy, Masai Mara

Andrew Obaga is the manager at Kicheche Mara and he and his very competent staff know how to make you feel comfortable and right at home. One is introduced to the camp after walking over a small bridge and up a short hill. At the top of the hill is an amazing and unexpected sight – a beautiful and well-maintained mowed lawn with communal dining and photography tents. Early the next morning there was a little family of three tiny dik-dik antelope on the edge of the lawn; humans are not the only ones who find it appealing. 

The camp: the first communal tent is a photographer’s dream tent offering the photographer access to WIFI, computers and more. The photographer’s tent has just about everything needed for safari photographers – a real bonus in the bush! Right next door is a restroom. Walk a few more feet and you will find the dining tent with a lovely patio – indoor/outdoor dining. Two more communal tents with nice lounges, bars and two more tented restrooms complete the communal area.

Kicheche Mara has a total of 10 guest tents including a family tent. They can make any of the tents into a triple. For example if you want to travel with your mom and sister – they would be happy to put 3 adults in one tent – no problem! The pathway to each tent is clearly labeled using Swahili animal names for the tents. We were in Punda Milia (zebra). Arriving at our tent, the main power switch is a handy pull-string at the front of the tent opening. The tents are very spacious and well-appointed with a daybed, a king-sized bed, desk, open closet for all your items, a bathroom with a separate toilet, two sinks and a nice shower. We had a comfy patio with chairs and a small table so we could watch for any activity at the river. 

Kicheche is a fabulous camp and well worth a 3-night visit. Tents on our side were:  Kiboko, Punda Milia, Topi, and Kanga. They are all a short walk to the main area. Andrew told us the ‘honeymoon tent’ is located quite a bit further from the main area. Wake up – coffee/tea is brought to your room.

The food was excellent at Kicheche. After each meal the chef checked on us to make sure we were satisfied.

As was the case at the other camps in the conservancies, game viewing at Kicheche Mara commenced right out of camp. Twice, driving into and out of the camp, there were three elephant bulls with huge tusks to be seen hanging out in a marshy area close to camp; apparently they spend much of the dry season in that spot.  

Hemingways Ol Seki Mara:  Naboisho Conservancy, Masai Mara

Hemingway’s Ol Seki camp in the Naboisho Conservancy in the Masai Mara represents complete luxury on safari. The highly accomplished manager, Debbie Paul, gave us a very warm welcome – she had clearly read the guest information form – and we felt like old friends right away. Debbie took us to our room, #5, which was the closest to the lodge. The rooms are equipped with everything you will need including an indoor and outdoor shower, a gorgeous bathtub – quite a luxury on safari – and a separate/private toilet. The room has a king-size bed, a day bed and desk and a spacious wrap around patio perfect for game viewing from your room. I really liked their early morning wake-up – complete with coffee/tea and a to-go insulated mug to take on your morning game drive. You don’t want to waste any time in the mornings, and this was an added bonus.

The dining area has views of the water hole and game viewing area which can be great entertainment while dining or enjoying the communal area. The lounge and bar are attached to the dining area and they overlook a tempting pool and deck with lounge chairs and umbrellas – it’s really hard to beat this view. Relaxing in the dining area or pool area and game viewing at the same time – don’t forget your binoculars.

If you are traveling with your family, you may want to consider the Simba or Chui Suites. Ideal for parties of around 4 to 6, they are exclusive use with a private vehicle and chef, a pool and in a beautiful setting.

At Ol Seki we enjoyed great food and service and a great spa – reasonable treatment prices too. Facials and massages are offered – a wonderful way to relax during the siesta time before the afternoon game drive. 

You won’t want to leave Ol Seki!

Saruni Wild – Lemek Conservancy, Masai Mara

One more Mara property which we checked out but did not overnight at, was Saruni Wild in the Lemek Conservancy. Saruni Wild is a beautiful and welcoming classic African bush camp. This small, tented camp has a great location in the Lemek Conservancy, right on the edge of the Mara North Conservancy, with access to both for game drives. What we both liked was the instant access to several excellent game viewing areas in the Mara. On our drive from Saruni Wild, we found a female cheetah and we were told that lions had been spotted in the area just the previous day.  

Saruni Wild has an ideal mix of features which will make it easy to send our guests there in future. Effective, hands-on management, friendly staff and well-designed, well-maintained common areas and tents. All tents have the same basic layout – a king-sized bed, desk, open closet, double sinks, separate toilet and shower area.  Tents are placed far enough away for great privacy. There is no age limit for this camp.

Contact us for more information

Our Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. team has visited various Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, South Africa, Kenya and Tanzania properties over the last couple of months. Coming up soon: educational trips to Madagascar and Mozambique. We’d love to help you arrange your first or next trip to Africa to one of these or several other African destinations. We can be reached at 800-513-5222 in Houston, or email jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com

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