Livingstone

During our visit we were extremely fortunate to get a peek at the Tongabezi School Trust and specifically a performance by their choir. What a treat! Truly one of the highlights of the trip. The school itself has been around since the mid 1990s. Initially small, it now is approaching an enrollment of 300 students, many of whom go on to prominent careers in Zambia. If you are staying here it is not to be missed. Having said that, if you would like to pop in during school hours, be ready to give a 15 minute educational presentation on a topic you know well because that is the price of admission. Simply showing up to observe is potentially disruptive to class proceedings, hence the request to contribute with your knowledge and experience. 

Lower Zambezi National Park

Due to some early seasonal rains the program which had us scheduled to fly to Kafue was changed and we headed for the Lower Zambezi. This and Mana Pools have always been special to me, partly because they were amongst the first areas I visited back in 2007 when I began going on safaris, but mostly because the area is just so spectacular. On top of that there is the exciting range of available activities which include walking, boating and fishing, to name just a few.

In fact after landing at Royal airstrip we were transferred to  camp by boat. Little did we know that Green Safaris had prepared a very special treat for our lunch. As we spent some time being educated on the Zambia Carnivore Program, a full lunch buffet was being set up for us on an island in the middle of the Zambezi. What was really unique about it? There was no dry land. The entire island was approximately 4-6 inches under water. Which meant shoes off, socks off, and out of the boat we went. Large tents provided plenty of shade and the food was excellent, but it was the totality of the experience that made it special.

Sausage Tree Camp

Sausage Tree Camp has an excellent location on the Zambezi because it is off the main channel a little ways. From there you get a bit of reprieve from the sound of boats constantly coming and going and it makes for quite a peaceful setting in the main area of the camp. One somewhat unique aspect of a stay at Sausage Tree camp is that each room comes with its own private guide and vehicle. Something to keep in mind should that be a key consideration for a safari. The rooms themselves are large, well designed and cooled. There are private plunge pools in each room for when it gets really hot. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here. The main area has a beautiful deck with great views over the river. The food and hospitality were excellent

As I mentioned earlier no trip to the Lower Zambezi would be complete without some water activities and we certainly took advantage ourselves, signing up for some tiger fishing. Unfortunately for the boat I was on, the fish were not biting. I later learned that another boat had quite a bit of luck with some large tiger fish being caught and released. To be fair our activity was cut a little bit short to make our way to a very special dinner that was prepared for us in the bush. It was well worth it and another indication that Green Safaris prioritizes the guest experience with little surprises like this.

Kafue National Park

After saying our goodbyes to the Zambezi we headed to the Kafue National Park which had experienced some early season rains. This necessitated a flight followed by a couple of helicopter transfers to get all of us to Chisa Busanga Camp. It is always great to get in a helicopter ride because it gives you a unique perspective on the area. The Kafue is quite heavily wooded for a long stretch and from our seats we could occasionally spot antelope, even seeing a few sable. 

As we approached camp the forest came to an abrupt end and the Busanga Plains sprang up. The setting is almost like a combination of the Okavango Delta and the Serengeti. Huge open plains but filled with vast tracts of swamp. Gorgeous to behold from low altitude. Speaking of low altitude, that might be a decent adjective for the rooms at Chisa. They were inspired by the weaver nests that are found in the area and each room is elevated to a height of probably 10-12 feet. They are fairly basic but I found them quite comfortable and I enjoyed the view. In the mornings the staff will come and use a pulley/hoist system to bring you your coffee.

We had only a brief amount of time at Chisa but it ended up being action-packed, starting with our evening game drive activity. Initially it was rather quiet and we drove around viewing numerous antelope before coming across a lone female lioness. I have heard many guides boast about the size of their lions but I think this might have been the first time I noticed it myself. This was just a huge female. Apparently the lions get quite the workout constantly moving through the heavy swamps. Although we did not see the full pride, it is known to number in the 20s.  

Shortly after spending some time with the lion our vehicle got stuck. Thankfully the other vehicle was able to reach us and give us a quick tow. From there we had a lovely sundowner barbeque before heading back to camp. As the sun went down quite an amazing thing happened. Every bug in the area decided it was time to take flight. Not a great combination with a vehicle that is spotlighting and looking for nocturnal animals. In no time flat the bugs swarmed our vehicle (and the spotlighter) to a comical degree. No problem, we will turn the light off and finish up the drive.  

At this point we heard that the other vehicle had now gotten stuck. Uh oh. Off we went to return the favor and drag them out. To our chagrin the vehicle was well and properly stuck. As the guides struggled with the cars everyone picked up the distinct sound of lions roaring. Not too close but probably not as far as everyone would have preferred. The decision was then made to get out on the remaining vehicle and instructions were given to the driver to not get stuck. The other vehicle would be retrieved the following day. The rest of the drive back to camp was great fun because in order to remain unstuck we needed speed and the driver provided it in spades.

Dinner that night was also a hoot and was done mostly under the cover of darkness lest the bugs come for the light. I say this all not to dissuade anyone by any means. Instead I look back with great fondness on this little adventure we had. During a safari things like this can happen and for those of you traveling with Fish Eagle, rest assured this is why we advise more time in fewer locations. No consecutive one night stays. Take your time, enjoy the area, unpack, get to know your guide and the staff. And if you happen to have a day where it rains or perhaps a day where you get accosted by an endless army of bugs, well, hey, at least there are another 2 or 3 days when you might get to see that huge pride of lions.

Lyndon is keen to share his experiences and insights regarding Zambia after several visits to the area so email him at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com for trip ideas for Zambia, information about the best time to travel and how best to reach it.

Property photos courtesy each property unless otherwise noted.